Do-it-yourself U-shaped sofa. How to make a sofa: manufacturing instructions. Video: unusual homemade sofas

The sofa in modern apartments is an essential design element. Often, retail stores charge an exorbitant price for good quality furniture that matches the interior in color and shape. Making a sofa with your own hands is much cheaper, and its production will not cause difficulties.

Materials used

Depending on the desired model of the created piece of furniture, the place where it will be installed in the future and its purpose, you can choose completely different materials. Several wooden pallets or pallets can be used to make a simple sofa. Furniture from them is made quite simply, it is cheap and today is just at the peak of its popularity. One has only to supplement the resulting pallet sofa with soft pillows, and it will turn into an excellent resting place for a loft-style room or become an irreplaceable piece of furniture for installation on the veranda of a country house.

The material for the manufacture of another of the simplest and lowest-cost options for a homemade sofa can be the most ordinary cardboard. Old cardboard boxes, for example, from household appliances, pieces of binding cardboard, corrugated cardboard - anything can go into business. The main difference between such a sofa will be that in this model not a single nail and screw will be used, the parts of the sofa will be fastened together with the help of wood glue. Since cardboard is quite easy to cut, furniture of any shape and size can be obtained. In addition, such a structure will weigh less than a sofa on a full wooden frame.

Wooden boards as a material open up a huge field for creativity. From them you can create a full-fledged folding sofa with any chosen mechanism, make both a frameless version and furniture on a strong wooden frame, create a comfortable sleeping bed or just a place for gatherings with friends. The abundance of types of wood offered for sale in specialized stores and the thickness of the boards used allows you to adjust the weight of the finished product, its strength and functional features. Interesting non-standard models of furniture for relaxation can also be made of wood. So, you can easily make a hanging sofa swing. It can be a great option, for example, for a gazebo or veranda. Slow rocking motion and soft pillows will create a relaxing effect and give a real break from pressing problems.

To make perfectly new item furniture can also be done by restoring the old frame. Sanding and impregnating wood with a special solution will help renew old wood material and create the basis for a future project.

In addition to the material for the frame, depending on the model being made, more material for upholstery may be needed. Here dense upholstery materials will come to the rescue, which are most often used for the production of upholstered furniture. The choice will be dictated by the interior design, the amount that the master will be ready to allocate for the materials and functions assigned to the sofa.

Most popular upholstery materials:

Genuine Leather- one of the strongest and most durable materials, gives sophistication and solidity to the manufactured furniture, however, it has a high cost and requires special tools to connect parts.
Eco leather - a material that has all the advantages of genuine leather; among the advantages, one can single out a lower cost and a larger range of colors.
Leatherette - the cheapest analogue of leather, quite durable, eco-friendly and stylish. Among the minuses is the fear of mechanical damage.
Chenille - a comfortable fabric for craftsmen who do not have much experience in sewing, as it does not stretch or slip, but at the same time has a high degree of wear resistance.
Velours- soft and pleasant to the touch material, also refers to materials that are convenient for sewing, however, it also has a significant disadvantage - stains are difficult to remove from such fabric and it is very moody to care for.
Tapestry- dense and durable double-sided fabric with a pattern. You can buy it in absolutely any fabric store, but you need to remember that a sofa with such upholstery does not tolerate straight lines sun rays, since the fabric burns out quickly enough.
Jacquard - durable, soft-touch material reminiscent of silk. Has a characteristic shine. When choosing, it should be borne in mind that when stitching, the material can slide and you will have to make some effort to make the product beautiful and neat.

When choosing a material, it is also worth considering how the upholstery will be stitched. If you plan to sew the cover on a regular sewing machine, and not on an industrial one, it is more appropriate to choose thinner fabric materials. When fastening parts made of thick furniture leather or leatherette on a machine that is not designed for heavy materials, there is a risk that the machine will not sew them or even break down.

A homemade sofa, if the idea suggests it, should have a soft comfortable seat. This will require a special material - filler. You can use it as:

Foam rubber- one of the softest furniture fillers, moreover, it has a low cost and is available for purchase in retail stores.
Polyurethane foam or polyurethane foam- a relative of foam rubber, however, it has a denser structure, and therefore furniture with polyurethane foam filling is quite rigid.
Sintepon - soft synthetic material white, most often used as insulation or as cheap way soften the surface.
Batting- soft filling with a high cotton content, and therefore it is a material that is highly breathable.

In addition, a spring block can be installed inside the sofa seat, which will extend the service life and improve the functional qualities of the furniture. The springs for such a block can be dependent and fastened to each other according to the principle of a snake, or they can be independent - in this embodiment, each spring exists separately and has its own individual cover.

If you plan to make the sofa sliding, you must definitely purchase a layout mechanism. They exist of the following types:

"book";
"Eurobook";
Tick-tock;
"accordion";
"roll-out";
"dolphin";
"Konrad".

In addition, you need to stock up on self-tapping screws, wood glue, which will easily and firmly glue the wooden frame, you will definitely need thick threads to sew upholstery details.

Of the tools, an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver, a furniture stapler, and a sharp knife for cutting foam rubber will be useful.

How to do it at home?

Any self-made project must start with an idea - choosing a model and determining the purposes for which this piece of furniture will be used. If the sofa is planned to be used as a main or additional bed, it is better to opt for a sliding model, in this regard, you need to take care of buying a layout mechanism, choosing a denser and high-quality upholstery material, as well as using a full-fledged spring block at the base of the furniture. If a homemade sofa is used strictly for sitting or as an element of the furnishings of a summer cottage, a garden house or stands on a terrace, you can experiment with the materials of both the upholstery and, in principle, the entire sofa. Massive sofas from a bar, topical from pallets, unusual from cardboard, with or without armrests - any option can be appropriate and successfully created with your own hands.

So, when the type of the future sofa is selected, its purpose is indicated, a general plan is drawn, the dimensions are outlined, you can start purchasing materials and directly creating what you want.

Making a sofa with your own hands includes the following steps:

selection and purchase of materials;
creating a skeleton;
upholstery.

Of course, depending on the type of construction chosen, actions can be changed, added or completely excluded.

From pallets

So, in order to make a sofa from pallets, the most minimal set of materials and tools is required. You will need several pallets, if desired, they can be sanded and painted in the desired color, a screwdriver, screws and a jigsaw, plus material for pillows that will serve as a soft back and seat for such a sofa. For armrests it is necessary to trim the outer parts of the pallets with thick wood inserts. These short parts must be stacked on top of each other and fixed with screws, after which the ready-made armrests must be attached to the already prepared base. The best option is 3 cuts, stacked on top of each other, but if desired, their number can be changed, which will help to achieve the desired height of the armrests.

At the base there can be either one pallet or several interconnected with screws, the choice will depend on what size the sofa is planned to be in the end.

Further, from foam rubber or other selected material, it is necessary to cut out two rectangles with a sharp knife to the size of the seat of the future sofa. After the foam rubber has been successfully cut, it is necessary to start covering the seat. There are several ways here: the upholstery can be sewn with a typewriter or by hand, as well as secured with a furniture stapler. The same manipulations must be repeated when making foam cushions for the back of the sofa.

If the sofa will stand against the wall, then its production can be completed here, but if it is not meant to lean the sofa against the wall, then the back must be attached to the finished frame. To do this, you need to take one or two more pallets, depending on the amount used to make the seat, and screw it with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver to the back of the sofa, then put the pillows in place and enjoy the homemade interior update.

Homemade "book"

This is a more difficult option to manufacture, requiring more materials, time and effort. It is necessary to start manufacturing by determining the exact dimensions of the future interior element; for convenience, they must be written down on a sketch prepared in advance. In addition, you need to stock up on materials, you will need:

boards 25-30 mm thick for the manufacture of the frame;
timber;
foam rubber;
synthetic winterizer or batting;
upholstery fabric;
plywood;
legs for the sofa;
mechanism for the sofa;
wooden slats;
glue;
self-tapping screws;
staples for a furniture stapler.

In addition to the above materials, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools. So, you will need:

jigsaw or hacksaw;
furniture stapler;
screwdriver;
roulette;
pencil.

When you have all the materials and tools listed, you can start manufacturing. This production involves a fairly large amount of garbage and dust, so all work is best done on garden plot, street, or in the garage.

The first step is to assemble the frame of the future box for linen, for this it is necessary to assemble a rectangle from the boards of the required length (the length of the box is 30 cm, less than the final length of the sofa together with the armrests). After the main frame is assembled, it is necessary to strengthen it with transverse slats; as a basis, a sheet of plywood is attached to the bottom of the frame using self-tapping screws. From boards of the same length, it is necessary to assemble two more rectangles with transverse reinforcing slats - these will be the seat and back frames of the future sofa. It is necessary to attach wooden slats to these frames with a screwdriver - the basis for the future mattress. It should be remembered that all lamellas must be located at an equal distance from each other.

The next step is the manufacture of armrests. Four armrests of the selected size and shape are cut out of plywood, then a bar is installed along the perimeter to strengthen the structure in two copies, after which the two remaining forms are fixed over the bar. Further, the individual parts of the sofa frame are assembled into one whole, at the same stage a special layout mechanism is attached.

There are a few simple rules to help you build:

In the unfolded state, the distance between the back and the seat of the sofa should not be less than 1 cm;
In a folded structure, the seat should in no case protrude beyond the attached armrests.

Next, the finished frame is pasted over with foam rubber, which must be chosen based on personal preferences, since there is a different structure and thickness of the material. After foam rubber for greater strength and making furniture soft, the frame is sheathed with padding polyester or batting. At this stage, the most creative part of the work begins. Using a sewing machine, it is necessary to sew a cover from an upholstery fabric. Such covers are usually sewn to fit the size of the sofa parts and put on them; shrinkage occurs with the help of zippers.

An alternative to this method is to target the upholstery fabric directly to the frame using staples and a furniture stapler. This method allows you to attach the fabric evenly along the frame with less time. The sofa-book is ready. All that remains is to install it in the most prominent place in the room, perhaps even by erecting a special podium for it, because a hand-made thing should arouse the pride of the inhabitants and the envy of those who do not have such an exclusive piece of furniture.

New furniture from old

When at home there is an old, sold out and uncomfortable, but favorite sofa, which is a pity to throw away, you can create a new piece of furniture out of it. First you need to remove the old upholstery, carefully so as not to tear, because in the future it will become a pattern for a new one. Next, take the filler from the frame (foam rubber, pp, or any other), if sleeping place on the spring block, then remove it.

Clean off the remnants of the old filler from the frame and sand with a sandpaper - that's the frame is already completely new. This is followed by the replacement of the springs, if required by the sofa model.

After the new spring block takes its place, it is necessary to return the filling to the sofa - the frame is glued with foam sheets of the required size. The final stage of the transformation will be the banner of the sofa with new material. To do this, you need to cut out the material according to the old pattern, sew the parts, put the finished cover on the workpiece and shoot it with a furniture stapler. If you wish, you can supplement the new thing with soft pillows made of suitable fabric.

Where to place?

The placement of a homemade sofa is determined by several factors, such as:

Room style;
Functional features of the piece of furniture itself;
The owner's taste preferences.

So, the pallet sofa, which is so relevant today, will fit perfectly on the balcony or terrace, a comfortable stylish seat will revive the interior and you will want to spend more evenings in it, wrapped in a blanket and contemplating the stars in the sky. In addition, such sofas can become a highlight of a Loft-style room.

A do-it-yourself wooden sofa swing can be placed in a gazebo in the country, you just need to remember that since it will be influenced by natural factors, the wood used for manufacturing must be processed with a special protective impregnation... Do-it-yourself folding, full-size sofas with linen boxes can be placed in a bedroom or in a garden house, you just need to choose a suitable upholstery material for making that will look harmonious in the interior of the room.

Simple frameless non-folding sofas will be an excellent option for the kitchen or living room, especially if such a sofa has an angular shape. Here you need to pay special attention to the selection of fabric - it should not absorb odors and be picky about cleaning. You can also treat the upholstery with a special coating that will repel water and reduce the flammability of the material. In addition, in the guest room or on the loggia, you can also place furniture made with your own hands from cardboard. However, it is worth remembering that such models are sensitive to moisture and do not accept wet cleaning or the ingress of liquids on them.

However, if the sofa is already created with your own hands, you definitely do not need to hide it, it is boldly necessary to place it in the most conspicuous place in the room, if, of course, when creating it, materials were used that fit the general interior of the room.

First of all, it is necessary to develop a detailed project of the future sofa. Definition overall dimensions, the exact height of the backrest, armrests, seat depth and other important elements should be reflected on the plan. It will be great if it exists in both written and electronic form. When determining the dimensions, it must be remembered that, for example, the height of the seating area directly depends on the location of the furniture, and the kitchen corners are usually slightly higher than those pieces of furniture that are used for relaxation. Once the plan has been developed, attention can be paid to the materials. To create a frame, experts advise paying attention to wooden beams or cuts of a profile furniture pipe. With it, the frame will turn out to be even more durable, and the sofa will last a long time.

If foam rubber was chosen for the internal filling, it is necessary to choose not loose and sufficiently thick cuts. The ideal thickness for homemade furniture starts at 15 cm, otherwise the foam rubber will need to be replaced too quickly, for which you will have to disassemble the entire structure. The same rule applies to the restoration of old furniture. As for the alteration of old furniture, here the main parting word will be that the sofa must be photographed before disassembly, plus, photos of the disassembly process itself will be useful - this simple action will help in the future to assemble a new similar object, and not guess what and where it is attached.

If the idea to assemble a sofa on your own comes for the first time and there is no experience in this, you should not chase after complex structures, it is better to start with the simplest straight forms. And in order to feel the wood, tools and fabric, it is better to start with an ordinary stool, so to speak, to test strength on it. After all, it is better if something happens to remake a smaller form than large-sized furniture.

Agree, each of you at least once thought about how to make a folding one. After all, perhaps, there is not a single apartment or house in which there is no soft sofa. When you come home, especially after work, you really want to either sit or lie down on your cozy sofa. Only fashion changes every time, and with it the design of furniture. And you can create an original folding sofa with your own hands.

A comfortable and original folding sofa can be made with your own hands, having free time and the necessary materials.

Manufacturing and purchasing of materials

It will take your free time, but it will also bring benefits. Firstly, you will save your money on this sofa, since now the cost of store copies is quite high. Secondly, you will select high quality expendable materials and you will be confident in them. Thirdly, you can change the appearance of the sofa at any time by changing the upholstery. Fourthly, you will save the area of \u200b\u200byour apartment, since the product will be assembled during the day, and in the evening it will be able to turn into a sleeping place. And, most importantly, you will feel proud of your work and show it off to family and friends.

Before you start making a folding sofa with your own hands, you must decide on the size and type of product. There are three main types of them: a sofa-book, a roll-out sofa, a folding sofa. And also do not forget to draw a drawing of it. You will need it not only during the work process, but also in order to correctly calculate the consumption required material... Having decided on all this, you can proceed to the next step.

To, namely, a folding sofa, you need to purchase the following materials:

boards (5 cm thick and 15 cm high);
corners;
bars;
springs;
upholstery fabric;
thick foam rubber;
transparent varnish;
hinges for doors;
furniture boards;
jigsaw.

Having bought everything, you can start working on the sofa itself. The instructions will help you with this.

Back to the table of contents

Making a folding sofa

The back of the sofa is made of furniture board.

Let's start with the back of the sofa. It is made from furniture board. On it, mark the upper curly line a little earlier. To do this, take a template. Next, you must drill a diamond-shaped slit and the upper line of the back according to the drawing. You will need a jigsaw for this. To get a diamond-shaped opening, you need to cut out the holes for the jigsaw in advance. Then drill the slots near the obtuse corners of the diamond. Do not turn the jigsaw saw in sharp corners.

After completing this work, remove the sawdust from the edges. After cutting out the remaining parts of the furniture board, all elements need to be sanded. Do not forget to carefully reinforce them by pressing them against the workbench board. Using a profile router, you must round off the front of the sofa parts. If you wish, varnish the finished elements.

Then attach the main block of wood to the wall. You determine the size and height according to your preferences. The height you define will be equal to the height of the sides of the seats. Attach the beam in the middle horizontally, fix it along the edges with screws. Place a slat made of wood on it, on top of which fix the seats on the hinges, thanks to which the sofa will unfold. Further, this rail should be attached at the bottom to the bar with self-tapping screws. Holes for them are made initially.

The sofa unfolds and folds thanks to special hinges.

After that, you must mark the locations of the hinges for the side seats, they will fold inward. Holes for the dowels are drilled according to the mark, the loops are fixed with screws. When the hinges are installed, the sides are attached to them. Now install the back of the sofa using the double-sided self-adhesive tape. You can add foam rubber in a cover to the back. It looks both beautiful and comfortable. The homemade sofa is ready. The only drawback is that there is no additional linen box.

Back to the table of contents

The principle of making a sofa-book

It is possible in another way. But first, get everything you need:

boards;
bars;
lamellae;
bolts;
transformation mechanism;
non-woven fabric;
foam rubber, synthetic winterizer;
sofa covers (you can sew it yourself);
wooden fittings (for armrests);
sandpaper.

Most of the fold-out sofas come with a linen drawer.

Start by collecting the laundry drawer. Make a box with dimensions of 190x80 cm.To make the structure stronger, attach two transverse slats in the middle. Make the bottom of the box from a sheet of fiberboard. The seat and backrest will consist of two identical boxes made of bars (40x60). Nail slats onto them to hold the mattress.

The armrests are made of chipboard (24 mm). They need to make frames. Drill holes at the bottom for the bolts. In the linen drawer, you also make 2 holes on both sides. Attach the transformation mechanism on both sides so that there is a free space of 10 mm between the backrest and seat frames. Make sure that the seat does not extend past the armrests when the product is folded.

All roughness on the frames can be sanded. Attach non-woven and thick foam to the lamellas. You do not cover the transformation mechanism with them. You can cover the foam rubber on top with a padding polyester so that it does not wear out. Put on the stitched covers on the seat and back.

On the armrests, glue the foam rubber, twisted in the shape of a roller, and on top you will need to attach it more to thicken and soften the armrests. Cover the armrests with the same fabric from which you sewed the covers for the sofa itself. Attach the hardware on the front side. Do not forget to check if the transformation mechanism works by unfolding and folding the sofa book. Well, the sofa with your own hands is ready. Here the principle of the sofa is simple and reliable. But there is also a minus: such a sofa cannot be placed close to the wall, since during decomposition it will constantly rub against the wall.

The interior of any modern apartment, private house involves the installation of upholstered furniture: a bed, armchair or sofa. Previously, it was assumed that the living room serves as a place for the sofa. Today, the developers have presented so many sofas different typesthat in terms of its functional characteristics and appearance they can be located in almost any room, from the kitchen to the balcony.

A newly-made owner of upholstered furniture often has a question of how to assemble a sofa with his own hands. The installation process itself does not imply any special kind of technical knowledge and skills. The complete set of any sofas implies the presence of a user manual, which details the mechanism of how to do this.

But one must take into account the fact that different shape and filler of soft parts make certain adjustments to the overall picture of the assembly. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to what sofas can be.

Forms of sofas and types of fillers

The following types are distinguished:

Straight is a popular option, often referred to as a classic sofa. It is not difficult to find the necessary dimensions of such a sofa that correspond to the room.

Corner - roomy and executed in the shape of the letter "L" option, which is practical, saves space by writing out into the corner, and also combines the function of a bed.

Modular is a representative of a new generation of upholstered furniture that does not have a fixed configuration. There are sections that are transformed and composed in accordance with the idea of \u200b\u200bthe owner of the sofa. At the same time, they can either be fastened together, or simply attached to each other.

In the production of soft parts, two types of fillers are used, which determine the following varieties: spring sofas (with dependent and independent blocks) and foam (they use polyurethane foam).

Spring sofas are heavier than foam sofas and can cause a number of difficulties during installation due to their weight.

Assembling a straight sofa

If, after purchasing the sofa, it was decided to install it independently, then a certain sequence of actions and a mandatory study of the sofa assembly scheme are required. First you need to carefully, without damaging the upholstery, release every detail from the packaging. After that, it is recommended to simply leave them in such a state for a while so that the material can "assimilate" the moisture and temperature conditions premises.

At this time, you can check the quantity and quality of the accessories that come with the kit, as well as prepare the required tool: screwdrivers, you may need a drill with drills required diameter, hexagons.

The next step is to screw the legs, if any. This must be done for the simple reason that the assembled structure will be less agile and much heavier. In addition, it makes sense to free yourself up space for further work, so that all the details and the tool are in sight.

The straight sofa includes the main frame and additional elements (backrest, armrests, decorative components).

The main assembly process is carried out as follows:

We put the mounts by aligning the holes and inserting bolts, screws or screws into them as provided in the manual. Next, carefully twist them. Similarly, we connect the seat and back of the sofa. The construction obtained at this step is the basis.

Then, on both sides, we install armrests and all decorative elements, if any, on the frame. There are cases where the mounting holes were not visible because they were hidden behind the upholstery. Then it should be carefully bent. The instructions should say this.

At the last step, we check the sliding mechanism, if the sofa is equipped with it. His work should take place smoothly, without squeaking and extraneous sounds.

It is important to remember that it makes sense to tighten the internal fasteners not all the way; later, if the sofa is not mounted correctly, it will be easier to disassemble. However, after the completion of the work, one must not forget about tightening all the attachment points.

Corner sofa and the nuances of its installation

Assembling a corner sofa involves joining two or three parts, which are seats, backrests and a retractable part. Any specialist will recommend assembling large sofa elements first, and then small ones.

First of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the design of such a sofa. It can be right-handed and left-handed, one part is longer than the other, the folding mechanism itself is different models is also different; the assembly sequence will depend on these facts.

The frame, armrests, seats and backrests are the parts of a corner sofa that require the following steps to join:

First, the supports are attached to the base, corner sections and armrests with screws. Rollers are installed on the sliding part. All elements must be strictly fixed.
One of the armrests is connected to the corner section with screws. The stability of the fixed elements must be checked.
The base section and backrest are installed, and the box is connected to the second armrest, after which assembled structure fastened to the corner section.
The back wall is installed, fixed with armrests. The stability of the resulting structure should be checked again.
Finally, a roll-out mechanism is attached to the guides installed in the base part.

There are corner sofas (Atlanta) complete with a side table that acts as an armrest. The assembly of the Atlanta sofa is carried out in the following sequence: first, the transport fasteners are removed and the roll-out seat, fixed with a special stop, is pulled out, the screws are unscrewed with a screwdriver.

Next, the armrest is aligned with the back of the sofa and secured with two Allen screws. Then, through the metal corner of the ottoman box and its wall, the back is fixed with three screws. A bar table is screwed to the ottoman with two hexagon screws, which simultaneously serves as a second armrest. Thus, two modules are assembled, subsequently they are pulled together by fasteners.

Assembling a modular sofa

Each furniture manufacturer has its own design of modular sofas, the only advantage that remains unchanged is that they can be assembled and disassembled at your discretion. Another advantage of the modules is the fact that they themselves are often sold already mounted, and the buyer is given the opportunity to combine them at his own discretion.

But if the set of the sofa assumes the presence of a more complex module, you will need to do a number of additional steps taking into account the specifics of a particular model. There are two types of modular sofas: sectional and convertible.

The sectional option implies a rigid connection of ready-made modules, which the buyer chooses himself in the store. The possibility of combining is at the pre-sale stage, when various options layout. And here you may need sofa assembly drawings, which reflect all the nuances of possible combinations. Then, already in place, the sofa is connected with fasteners and remains in this form permanently.

More interesting option is a transformable modular system. The number of purchased sections is unlimited, then any structure is already formed from them. Initially purchased modular sofa, when rearranging sections, can become a single bed or a set of armchairs. In addition, the sections can be given various geometric shapes: square, rectangular, round, etc.

Thus, the process of assembling a sofa is quite a responsible task. But anyone who has time can do it necessary tool and the desire to do it yourself. In any case, there is always an opportunity to contact professionals, assemblers of the company from which the sofa was purchased, or to private persons providing installation services.

Photo of the sofa assembly process

Do you have a small apartment? Then try to make a corner sofa with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction and drawings will help you make simple and compact furniture. Corner sofas will laconically fit into the design of the kitchen, nursery or living room.

How to make a corner sofa with your own hands

For the production of a sofa, a drawing is made with the calculation of the number of parts and their sizes. Materials need to be taken without frills. Materials with complex connections are rather difficult to assemble independently. For fasteners, self-tapping screws are considered the best option. Also, when connecting some elements, special glue is required. Align surfaces well before bonding.

The wooden surface is stained or varnished in several layers. Sawed small parts are sanded with fine-grained emery paper. This surface becomes stronger and more durable.

Materials for making a corner sofa

Pine timber with a cross section of 3 by 5 centimeters;
Chipboard 1.6 centimeters thick;
Fiberboard 0.3 centimeters thick;
Plywood, having a thickness of 1.5 centimeters and 0.5 centimeters;
Foam rubber 2 and 4 centimeters thick;
Batting, fabric (dense) for upholstery;
Holofiber or synthetic winterizer;
Furniture legs in the amount of 9 pieces. You will also need a microlift (lifting mechanism).

For the production of a sofa you need:

Jigsaw
Hacksaw and miter box,
Furniture stapler with staples
Screwdriver
Puncher
Self-tapping screws and bolts
Wood glue
Sewing machine

Step-by-step instructions for making a sofa

Step 1. If you are planning to make a sofa for yourself, then when you buy chipboard, provide drawings and ask them to cut the slabs according to the specified dimensions ..

Step 2. Then all the parts must be marked and laid out in accordance with the marking.

Step 3. The frame, seats, armrests, backrest should be in order of assembly. Parts are twisted, from large to small.

Step 4... Two identical sidewalls are prepared and horizontal beams and vertical posts are attached to them. They are fastened with ties. This is the skeleton of the left side.

Step 5.For the left side, the base is assembled, i.e. the frame for the seat. It is inserted into the frame, and a plywood sheet is fixed on top. A fiberboard sheet is attached to the back.

Step 6... Then the assembly of the other (right) side of the sofa begins, this part includes the laundry drawer. Longitudinal, transverse bars are attached to the sides.

Step 7. The bottom of the frame is sewn up with a plywood sheet. The back is attached and the chipboard sheet is screwed on. The sides are sheathed with blanks. The back is sewn up with a chipboard sheet. Holes for microlift are made with a perforator. Bolts are taken for fasteners of grade 6 by 30 with special caps for furniture.

Step 8... The frame parts are filled with foam rubber. The foam rubber must match the size of the part being filled. For this, a measure and a template are made, blanks are made from it. The part is glued to the surface. On the seat is foam rubber 10 centimeters thick.

Step 9... For the upholstery of the sofa, templates are first made and blanks are cut out of the fabric. To make it easier to work, you can spread the fabric on the seat and mark the edges with a bar of soap or chalk. The material is cut from the outside. The allowances are 1-2 centimeters on all sides. Recesses in the upholstery, that is, braces with or without sewn-on buttons, make the sofa more effective.

Step 10... Places for broaching the loops are pre-drilled in the plates. For tightening, a loop is made, which is sewn to the upholstery. Loops are made of strong nylon cord.

For less abrasion under the upholstery, agrotextile is laid on the foam rubber. The upholstery is secured with staples using a stapler. When everything is knocked out, the elements are connected into one structure.

We offer you to see the drawings of the corner sofa:

With proper cutting of materials and assembling everything together, you get a comfortable, beautiful and inexpensive corner sofa. It can serve for many years and the quality will be no worse than the factory one. Now you can do not only do-it-yourself repairs, but also high-quality and beautiful furniture.

A sofa is an absolutely essential piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, wardrobe, even a living room, in a headset with a coffee table. And at the same time, a sofa is a very complex product, one of the most difficult in furniture production, therefore, the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take them with caution and for samples they take inexpensive sofas, relatively little functional and not particularly strong and durable. This publication is intended to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will be passed on to their grandchildren, unless they have to drag it. And designed for rooms with the widest range of conditions of use: from a garden gazebo to a kitchen and a children's room.

It is not as difficult as it might seem, and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple for a summer residence, nursery, temporary use, until you get some money for furniture) is quite possible in a garage, a shed and even on a balcony. The furniture makers of the old days worked like that. High-tech "bells and whistles" make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of material properties and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the furniture design is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions, in its manufacture, can almost always be replaced, albeit more laborious and requiring more skill with ingenuity than that of a well-trained biorobot with a conveyor, but produced hand tool.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is the corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially clearly manifested in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping-living room sofa corner, pos. And in the figure, folded does not have any sleeping appearance and the most terry moralist-orthodox will have nothing to find fault with. But at the same time, its right (in the picture) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded it turns into a double bed. These are also called bachelor sofas: I'm tired, not up to it - I'll fall asleep on a single room. And the next (or forever the only) passion has come - there will be enough room for two to settle down, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, there is nothing complicated: a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa, uniformly decorated and put together, like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic couch, pos. B. Sitting in the corner, not only bad sign, but also inconvenient, so in last years the corner seat is increasingly being replaced with a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a chest-table. A diagram of the device of such a kitchen corner is shown in Fig. below. You can have lunch on it alone, if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. A casket and trunks (the so-called sofa boxes) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of homemade preparations, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made on the so-called. simplified beam scheme (see below). Its feature is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections - in place in the room; other sizes are typical, see below. Sidewall material - 40 mm solid hardwood board or 36 mm chipboard. The bottom of the sofa is 12-16 mm chipboard on a frame (see also below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a board of 30 mm, beams of 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm (shelf supports). Assembly - on self-tapping screws, dowels and a half-wood cut-in, all with PVA gluing or "Moment". Materials at current prices require no more than 3000 rubles.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (supporting) structure, most often including a box, a bed - a sofa, in the presence of a lifting box, a backrest and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism is added to them and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a drawer. Typical sofa sizes:

Length - 1200-1900 mm.
Sofa width - 550-700 mm.
The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
Backrest height, without add. pillows - 200-700 mm.
Backrest tilt - 5-20 degrees.
The height of the seating surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

Legs - 50-70 mm.
Carrying frame - 50-100 mm.
Box - 150-250 mm.
Sofa base (with frame) - 55-75 mm.

This leaves up to 120 mm for the soft padding with casing. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the sofa manufacturing is its padding, upholstery and covering. These are different manufacturing operations; each of them separately and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than the carpentry. True, in Runet, masters are vigorously promoting themselves, promising to pull the sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with non-woven materials (fleece, etc.), which are short-lived in themselves. Secondly, they are fitted according to a simplified system with turning the corners from the inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees a quick abrasion of the skin. And most importantly, according to this method of work, there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for constriction; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew the covers for the sofa modules, you need serious preparatory work. Its essential subtleties will be described below; beginners are advised to fit the sofa in the old amateur way with a saddle fitting. Pros do not work for them, tk. it takes a long time, but who will pay for it? But at the time of the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of flourishing?), When it was necessary to register for the furniture hauling in a year, and even give a bribe, it was successfully used by "full teapots". Sadly, the sofa is covered in stages like this:

The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (you can use propylene);
Install a soft padding, most often foam mats;
Tighten soft, in order of preference, spandbond, padding polyester, batting;
On a cut of decorative fabric, the wings are swept under the cords, if decorative scars / tightening are provided, see below;
A decorative cut, not cut, is thrown over the product with the wrong side out, pulled, as described below, and the corners are swept away with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with a scar outward;
A day later, they check whether it is wrinkling where, whether it sags, whether the drawing, especially the geometric one, has led, and, if necessary, correct the angles;
If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
Tighten the cords into the wings for tightening, if necessary;
Throw in a cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
After another day, check the drawing, correct the tension threads ;;
Everything is OK - fix the lapels;
Forms decorative straps.

The procedure, as we can see, is rather complicated and lengthy. This is explained by the fact that the properties of tissues, incl. upholstery, differ markedly and within the piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience, now the technical parameters of a specific sample are directly entered into professional programs computer cutting. Homemade patterns from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - for determining tissue consumption. A rough estimate according to the method: the length of a cut with a width of 150 cm is equal to 2 widths of the sofa + 2 of its lengths, it gives a large departure. Determination of the cut length by templates (allowance - from 15 cm) gives a length saving of up to 1 m (!); how much it is in money - see the store.

Note: for the same reason, if a sofa is being stretched, it is undesirable to use it as a pattern old skin... Under a microscope or a magnifying glass, it is clear that the structure of her fabric has changed significantly compared to the same, from the same loom, jacquard or tapestry.

Clauses also require additional explanation. 1-3. If you stuff the trim hastily, wood-glue-synthetic winterizer-foam rubber-decor, then after a while you will find that the trim is greasy, to the touch, especially in summer, sticky, and the dearest parts of the body are uncomfortable on it. Let it be "some" 3 years, but what is this lifetime for furniture? Therefore, soft mats need padding on both the bottom and top of the porous gaskets to wick away vapor / sweat / dirt. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is a supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. This assembly is joined by the backrest, then the armrests; most often already trimmed. The frame and the drawer, if the design of the object does not provide for any wood in sight, are also sheathed separately before assembly. In this case, fabric flaps at the joints do not reduce the strength of the connection, since vertical loads do not tear the upholstery, and horizontal loads hold extra. fasteners, see below.

Note: the famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of \u200b\u200bsilent blocks in the tracks came to him when he was renovating his sofa. No wonder the rich man fiddled with furniture himself; Christie was a Class II engineer. Ι the clan shifts the pieces of paper at the table, and the ΙΙ-th can do whatever he has in mind with his hands.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism are installed on the drawer (in the simplest case, piano / card loops and a limiter cord). Perhaps the sofa will be hard with a mattress lying loosely on it. In any case, the sofa is also fitted separately in advance.

A special case is office sofas, etc., used in unfavorable conditions, with the possibility of careless use. Their supporting system is made in the form of a volumetric beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for amateurs to use the connections shown there by the confirmations obliquely. In the presence of special equipment and tooling, "oblique screws" are economical and technological and therefore are widely used in the industrial production of furniture of classes up to medium. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture. Secondly, it is problematic, if not impossible, to drill a very hollow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and in 2 mating parts at once. And the self-tapping screws that have parted to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple sofa of a beam scheme is shown in Fig. It is most suitable for a gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, the pillows are brought / carried away as they are used, and the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water-repellent agent for wood (you can use it) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion before assembly. Finish - acrylic lacquer in 2 layers.

At the dacha, where rain still does not pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a homemade sofa of a simplified beam system, its device is on the left on the trail. fig. Its basis is strong side-armrests and a pair of cross-beams. Completes the box-bridge power circuit; in this case, necessarily with 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

Armrests - plywood 20-24 mm with overlays from the board at the top (so that they are wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not damp) laminated chipboard 30-36 mm.
Box - oak / beech board 30 mm; bottom - plywood from 6 mm.
Leg beams - any commercial timber.
The back is the same, the shield, (300-400) x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled, this method will still be useful to us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the beams from the timber, but also to the sides from the inside with a zigzag (snake) with a pitch of 120-150 mm with an indent from the edge of the board by 30 mm. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are of a lesser magnitude, but with a greater proportion of dynamic sign-alternating ones, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sides, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to fill up the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon loosen. According to this scheme, a children's sofa with drawers is assembled, shown on the right in Fig; the assembly diagram of the boxes there on the bottom right. All lengths are made of oak / beech 30 mm; the sides and bottom of the sofa are plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - with glue.

Note: it is not worth using chipboard - for children's furniture, only phenol class E0 is permissible, but this material is rather fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to raise a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, lifting the sofa back will not work: the backrest interferes. It remains to lift forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, the upper edge of it, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the hostess is not two meters tall, how can she put / get something? Would you like to waddle whole in a box and squeak, jerking your slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, a very simple and reliable, and most importantly, not requiring high precision, the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique rhombus with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa ottoman with it, is shown in Fig.

Note: the author is aware of a curious case with an oblique rhombus. Drinking, but an artisan man, making this ottoman, fenced off the cubicles behind the levers (they say, there is also some kind of mechanics) and arranged hiding places in them for bottles with the necessary swill. I even brought the tubes under the trim behind the back. And for the dearest half of more than 10 years, until he went into a deaf stuck and split himself, it was not at all clear why this is a blessed day, a nutty day, and does not run to the store for a bubble.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur and professional world, innovative works appear here all the time. The fact is that the folding mechanism of a classic sofa-book is a rather capricious thing. Either it wedges / jams, or it is difficult to assemble / disassemble the sofa for ladies' handles, or it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And the amateur who wants to repeat the selected sample discovers that in a rough-looking piece of iron there are curved surfaces, made with sufficiently high accuracy, and there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, amateurs most often make roll-out / pull-out sofa beds.

Here, 2 systems are most common, with a retractable half of the free bed, pos. 1 in Fig., And in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor-intensive and material-intensive, but its Achilles' heel is its legs. It is inconvenient to fold them manually, and the gravitational ones (reclining by their own weight) will sometimes stand obliquely and break, the sofa sagging when pulling out will help.

The bridge circuit is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also be bedside tables. True, you will have to reach for them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep with their feet forward.

The device of a sliding sofa bed of the bridge circuit is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper paired rollers (guides / stops) run in the grooves of the box. Pay attention to children. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but just a decorative overlay. The surfaces of the sleeping halves A and B are, of course, flush. Half of the bed A is often made leaning forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by the overlay C. Then small boxes open D. Lovers of "strawberries with cream" (erotomaniacs / nymphomaniacs, surprisingly monotonous and primitive thinking audience) consider them reliably hidden hiding places and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: to transform the sofa into a bed, some extra free space behind the back is required. This does not happen with a small bedroom, and garbage accumulates there. Console roll-out sofa beds are devoid of this defect, now for some reason completely undeservedly relegated to the background.

How a console sofa bed is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Its extended width can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional broadening of the console and increasing the height of the back, and the length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal double bed). In this case, the excess width of the assembled seat is compensated for by cushions that, when extended, form a half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the utility block), they are stored in a drawer. Some inclination of the back is obtained due to the piano loop, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood spacer under the lower hinge wing.

The main materials are beams 50x30 and plywood 4-6 mm. On the basis of the armrests - solid waste of construction timber. Console frame is the same construction as for the drawer. Connections - through thorns or met. corners, all the same. The height of the pillows is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, therefore, for use in normal conditions, it is advisable to increase the height of the console and put the box on its legs.

About Eurobooks

The concept of the euro is not being discussed as soon as possible. Moldovans, for example (there is experience of communicating with the local migrant workers), dig a trench for euros (according to the plan, profile and on time), get drunk with euros (splashed, to death, to the green snake, blue devils and pink elephants), euros go to the toilet in a big way (without constipation and diarrhea). And the usual folding sofa bed now on sale often goes for a reason, but like a eurobook. But this is still all right, but the eurobook sofa-type click-clack (see fig.) Is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes then yes. And the mechanism is expensive but reliable. To obtain a double bed, the armrests and backrest sides also fold back. It is not clear what to call them. It doesn't look like head restraints. Sidekicks, or something. When unfolded, triangular gaps are formed in the heads / legs, which are overlapped by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to expand the click-clack into a bed, at least 0.7 m of free space is needed along its contour. Where can I get it? Is that in a studio apartment, the inhabitant of which is embarrassed to show that he is also sleeping here. However, such a state of mind is characteristic of the present, and not only the present, Europeans. We can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a sofa-book click-clack - well, it.

How to do?

But how do you make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill and saw? Well, let's get started. Just do not forget that what is covered must be covered before the general assembly. After the carpentry, we will discuss how to fit what, after all, the basis is in it, and the manufacture of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and drawer

Professionally handicraft, if I may say so, the supporting frame is assembled on blind spikes with wedging and gluing. They give a completely hidden connection and furniture on such lives for centuries, but in order to make them, you need a hand-held wood router, skills in working with it, or masterly possession of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inset legs, pos. 1 in fig. So it is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Section of beams from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the "stump" of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened in pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 to the glue.

The box is best assembled on triangular bosses from 50x50, pos. 2.With box boards (oak / beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm), they are fastened with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0) x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections are also glued.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable, if you are not too lazy and, before installing the bosses, assemble the box on dowels, a pair per joint.

The bottom can be simply nailed with small nails in 70-100 mm increments; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the staples do not fit into it well, many bend and tear the sheathing; wallpaper nails too. Particleboard and fiberboard are fragile, exfoliate. Suddenly the bottom will get wet, it may simply fall through, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to pull the sofa, the bottom made of chipboard / fiberboard will show itself in all its glory - when tearing out the old staples, the laminated material is ripped open so that you cannot attach the new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood with a thickness of 4-8 mm, impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if the box is needed without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood that are the length of the sofa are not available. The pieces must be connected so that the joint is held in weight under the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are cuttings that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of high-quality furniture, plywood sheets are connected with a shaped strip made of solid wood, at the top at pos. 3. You can make a "gusset" yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 times the thickness of the board less than the width of the box (equal to its internal width). Fasten the gusset from the inside to the tsars (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-beam made of 50-70 mm strips with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20-mm liner with a thickness not less than that of plywood. It will give rigidity to the beam, and without it, the sheets assembled end-to-end, under working loads, will begin to mutually delaminate each other. Everything is collected on small nails, fastened in a box like a gusset.

The box is connected to the frame (recall - after sheathing, if provided) with dowels with a pitch of 200-300 mm, this is enough not to crawl to the side. An option, possibly in addition to the dowels, is flat metal linings from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle for short and 2-3 evenly along the length on the long sides.

Note: if the drawer is without bulkheads, the backrest height should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the drawer drawer drawer side will not withstand the loads.

Back

The base of the backrest supporting frame (item 1 in the figure) is spar A made of solid board (120-150) x40 mm. Most often, for the sake of simplification of work, it is made composite of sections, but it will be more durable one-piece. This is cut into vertical posts flush and put first on the dowels. Also, it is advisable to assemble the entire frame first on dowels, and then fasten it in the corners with corners or bosses, like a box. The lugs in this case can be simply cuttings of a bar, since the inner volume of the backrest is not used.

Height H1 is equal to the height of the support frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 - sofa thickness, but not less than the spar height indicated above. Thickness of bottom plate made of oak, etc. - from 40 mm. It, together with the spar and the rectangular parts of the struts, constitutes the lower back belt. This is a very important site, because normal operating load of people leaning back tends to pull it away from the lower support.

The normal number of racks on a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pcs. evenly along the length. If the backrest is wider than the sofa, i.e. captures the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the most extreme ones - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper back belt is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm. His "responsibility" is necessary when they stand on the back in order to reach something above, or when the sofa is pulled behind the back while moving furniture. Also here the upholstery creeps and wrinkles most willingly, therefore the upper beam is rounded into one plane with the supporting surface of the backrest and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can be pine.

The backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. This is necessary to give the entire module the rigidity necessary for a strong connection with the support, but you don't need to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare pos. 2 and 3. On the last one - gross mistakethat simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously degrades the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this back to the support? Self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards? How long will such a sofa last until the back comes off?

Support connection

Assembling the backrest with support is just the case when metal fasteners in furniture are needed. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the backrest parts with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the box / frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads into the box / frame), 3 of those and those per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are still spring nuts under the nuts, it will not be possible to tighten them later!

The corners need 2 for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate racks), above and below, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the zone of greatest loads (to the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally at the bottom. Better in 2, in case the sofa will be dragged behind the back. For attachment to the spar, it is better to use unequal corners 60x40 with holes in a narrow shelf arranged in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, DSV from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glue foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely covered. Leaving the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work, is impossible: it is unacceptable to put the folds of the upholstery into the joint of the back and the support, and it will not work to cover it after installing the armrests.

Armrests

The armrests can be solid wood or frame, like the back. They are also fully completed prior to installation. The load on them is less, therefore, they are fastened from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm with an envelope or snake to the box, and to the support 4-6 pcs. in a row.

Armrests of complex shape are most often made frame. In fact, technologically, they are not so complicated, pos. And in fig. The decor on the inside extends to the lower edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the graceful armrests. Then it needs additional. lathing from strips of about 30x40 and inserts from a board from 30 mm, pos. B. The crate is cut into the backrest pillars, and the inserts are fixed with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame made of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbars for each full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame details are connected by a cut-in half-wood with reinforcement with self-tapping screws and glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small screws or nails with a notch. The bars of the frame should be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see fig.), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, in this case, 50 mm of foam rubber disappears, but there is a significant advantage when covering it: staples / nails do not scratch the top of the drawer, and thanks to the extra bend, the sofa sheathing (the most loaded) lays down more evenly and holds stronger.

Upholstery

Upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done in different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - the corners. Form them with a fold, as in fig. on the right, the method is widespread, but therefore not at all of a better quality. According to GOST USSR, the upholstery corners are generally a production defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and sewing the corners of furniture fabrics is done in more than 2 ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second for those more prone to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But keep in mind that the numbers in fig. approximate, fitting with a sketch is required!

Covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on inverted. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (folds) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam; it is folded back during sewing and left free.

This is followed by a tightening. If the corners are with tongues, then they level the trim with them, and the tongues are fixed. Then they pull the cover with a harsh thread from the underside up and down, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, pulling the threads, achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by the drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is leveled immediately with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as it should, the edges are fastened with an indentation from the fabric edge of at least 5 cm. If the type of product allows, fasten with a fold.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the drawer are upholstered as shown in fig. Drawer - from 3 sides, the back remains open. This is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small tragus with a height of approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, narrower than the sofa, so as not to crush the fabric. In extreme cases, the blank of the sofa is placed on a pair of stools. It just won't work to fit the backrest. it is already attached to the support. Here, first, the fabric is fastened along the line of conjugation with the box, from under the bottom it is pulled on the tragus, like a sofa, and from the bottom, small nails will have to be temporarily driven into the support from the sides. Well, and the armrests can be turned as you like, there are no problems.

Cushions

Separate cushions for the sofa are sewn in the same way as the blocks of a frameless chair:

The foam mat is sheathed with technical fabric;
The decorative cover is sewn inside out, the final (rear lower) seam is left unstitched;
2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastening towards each other;
Insert the foam block into the decor, fasten the zippers.

Tightening straps

Sewing multiple pillows is boring and dust collects at the joints between them. And a flat sofa is not in harmony with every design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with tightenings, see fig. There are also 2 options for lighter and denser fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn on the edges of the cover under the tightening, and the tightening is done when the cover is already fixed. According to the 2nd option, the front wings (sleeve-tunnels) are sewn on the workpiece under the cords and an even stretch is achieved by alternately pulling the cords, then the tension threads of the cover.

Beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is with decorative scars, see fig. Under them, you also need to sew wings, but it is better to fill them with a flexible stranded electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (vertical is possible) wooden surface suitable size, even into the wall of a barn or doghouse.

The ends are stripped from the insulation by 25-35 mm, twisted with a British twist (British twisted, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the strand of wire that has inadvertently crawled out does not dig into a sensitive place, wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece covers

A one-piece sofa cover is already the aerobatics of upholstery. However, what if a shabby but sturdy sofa of mahogany or Karelian birch is found in the grandmother's attic? Furniture restorers know their own worth, but they love their work and respect intelligent connoisseurs. If you talk to them competently, then they will take a moderate fee and put their soul into the work.

In such a case, as the "1001 Nights" says, know that the basis for tightening a one-piece cover is the interface line of the sofa with the armrests and backrest. They are fixed with cords as shown in fig. The cords are brought out along the bisectors of flat corners (outer) and triple (inner) trisectors along the grooves in the wooden frame and, for triple corners, through the holes in it. The cords are pulled moderately, their ends are fixed and then the cover is straightened and pulled.

Drawstrings for cords can be, depending on the design, front or purl. The last case is the most difficult, the seam of the curtain should be double and very even. To make it flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: generally a machine - the main problem when upholstering a sofa. Before working, look at your specifications and check if she is sewing jacquard fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than # 20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

Is it easier?

As you can see, making a sofa and covering it is not a field to go over. Is it possible here somehow faster and easier, to the dacha, in new apartment? To throw up any pillows and fill up?

You can, the solution is called - a sofa made of pallets. From building pallets - pallets - in general, a lot of things are made, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack made of pallets can be made much more convenient using the principle of an adirondack-type garden chair, on the left in Fig. It is a little more difficult of them to build a pull-out sofa bed in a rustic style in the center. And by kissed (with a tool, not a glass) stronger, you can get a sofa, about which you cannot immediately say that it is from a discarded container, on the right. For example, see what kind of sofa was made, it seems, by a completely inexperienced, but completely intelligent and not armless guy:

Video: do-it-yourself pallet sofa

It happens ... with sofas ...

Since we are talking about containers, then finally - a sofa joke. No comments required, that in fig. speaks for itself. And it is standing somewhere, sitting on it, lying ...