How to strengthen the walls of the drain pit with slate. Slate cesspool. Strengthening the walls of the drain pit using scrap materials

We have already written about the construction of cesspools using tires, concrete rings and barrels, today we will write to you about how to build sewer well from asbestos slate. We will talk about using flat slate, but this does not mean that this task cannot be dealt with with the help of corrugated slate.

What materials will be required in order to complete the construction of a well

In order to build a well, you will need the following:

Flat slate sheets;
steel pipes;
steel wire;
corners;
shovel;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, building level;
tachanka.

Note that in the same way you can equip a pit for country toilet, but we are so, by the way.

How to build a cesspool using slate

Dig a hole. As you probably already guessed, the pit should be rectangular, preferably square. To excavate the soil, you will need a shovel and a cart, as well as buckets. As for the depth of the pit, it's up to you to decide.

When the foundation pit is ready, start organizing the metal frame. You need to weld a frame from steel corners under the bottom of the pit. You will need two such frames. After that, one of them must be laid on the bottom of the pit. The pipes must be welded at the corners of the lower frame, and then at the corners of the upper one. As a result, you will have a rectangular frame.

In the next step, you need to start arranging the walls of the well. Everything is simple here. The challenge is to cut required amount pieces of flat slate, and then lower it into the pit, sewing up all sides of the rectangular frame. Self-tapping screws can be used to fix the slate.

When ready, the space between the slate and the walls of the pit must be covered with soil, and then tamped. Well, only then you need to make a cover. If the pit was made for installing a toilet, you need to start installing it.

www.raznyesamodelki.ru

Practical fences

Until recently, slate was the most common roofing material with many operational benefits. Today its popularity has dropped slightly, more than modern materials: bituminous shingles and metal shingles. It's a pity to throw away the old coating, which is why many have warehouses of old slate sheets in their dachas. It's a pity to throw it away, and you don't need to do this.

You can easily assemble and make a temporary toilet, an outdoor shower from slate sheets, you can build fences from it, covering them with a fence made of a chain-link mesh, for example. Such a solution will protect the backyard from prying eyes of passers-by and the penetration of neighboring dogs.

A standard slate sheet has a length of 175 cm, the sheet is cut in half and simply with an overlap on the chain-link it is dug into the ground with the lower edge, to a depth of 40 cm.If the soil is then thoroughly tamped, no additional fasteners are needed to stabilize the fence. If desired, the slate can be easily painted by choosing correct color, it is easy to easily integrate it into the style of your site.

Note! Such a partition is able to protect the personal plot from the spread of weeds, which are trying to gain a foothold with their roots behind the edge of the neighboring plot.

Cellar shelves

Another way to use old slate was suggested by experienced summer residents and gardeners. For storing supplies, they propose to build convenient and durable shelves using slate, allowing you to organize a convenient storage system for existing supplies. The shelves are constructed as follows:

In the corners of the pantry, racks are laid out of bricks, the length of which should coincide with the width of the slate sheet. The height of the racks is 90 cm.
A sheet of slate is laid on the racks.
Formwork is being built around it.
Reinforcement pipes are laid in the slate ribs.
The solution is mixed, as for a cement screed.
A slate sheet is poured with it, the solution layer should be 10 cm.
The result should be monolithic concrete - a fairly strong roomy shelf on which any container for storing vegetables and fruits can easily be placed.

If the cellar is large, such shelves can be placed around the perimeter, making them short or long. Many will think that it is easier to use boards in this case than slate, but the use of the described material, as practice shows, helps to significantly save. In addition, the slate does not need to be removed from the formwork. It can be painted or whitewashed with lime. Then the shelves will look quite neat.

Slate beds

If there is a vegetable garden in the country, it is easy to assemble neat beds with the help of slate. Making them with your own hands is not difficult. Look at the photo how such a garden looks decorative. The use of slate has quite practical purposes. Such structures help keep the soil within the same bed.

Such a partition is a reliable barrier for rodents and the spread of weeds. The process of laying slate itself consists of several stages:

First, the slate must be cut. This can be done along the plates or across the waves, as shown in the photo.
Then the boundaries of the beds are outlined.
Trenches are dug along the entire perimeter. Their depth should be half of the prepared protective product.
Slate blanks are placed in the prepared trenches.
It remains to dig trenches and compact the soil around the installed sheet metal parts.
In order to give the walls of the bed more stability, metal pegs are buried in the ground.

Note! The installation of the described fence has certain nuances. If the waves in the beds are horizontal, shoots and their roots can easily grow along the grooves.

Any digging of the earth in this case will lead to the death of the plant. Vertically positioned waves will not become an obstacle for weeding the beds.

It is best to cut slate with a grinder. Experienced craftsmen, while performing such work, direct the grinder in the direction opposite to the wind direction. In this case, dust will be blown away from the cutting person. Since asbestos dust is dangerous for humans, it is necessary to protect yourself from it during work by wearing protective goggles on your eyes and covering your nose with a gauze bandage. Do not use a wood saw to cut slate. This is a traumatic job, one wrong movement can deprive an arm.

Pros of using slate fencing

Experienced gardeners today make not only beds from slate sheets, they collect flower beds with it, lay slate on greenhouses. A garden path, covered with flat sheets, turns out to be strong and reliable. Practicality and decorativeness are not the only advantages of such a solution.

Slate is a material that heats up quickly in the sun, heats up and easily gives off excess heat to the soil. This has a beneficial effect on the growth of any plant.
The fence assembled with asbestos-cement sheets for the garden bed is difficult to destroy.
In the future, it is not necessary to carry out any other work with such a fence. Set and forgot with them for a long time.
Using old slate sheets, there is no need to spend on purchasing wooden beams.
If desired, the sheets can be easily painted in any color; painting increases the decorative properties of the fence.

Wanting to repeat a similar experiment in your garden, it is useful to study in advance the disadvantages of asbestos-cement products. On hot summer days, such a fence will contribute to overheating of the soil, so the plants will need to be watered more often. In places where prolonged rains are a common occurrence, the soil under the fence is often washed out, so they constantly tilt. This forces the owner of the garden to constantly fix the fence. For many, this procedure will seem tedious.

Toilet foundation and cesspool

Old slate sheets are often used for arranging formwork for pouring the foundation for outbuildings. In this case, it is not necessary to remove the formwork after the concrete has set.

Since there is often no central sewerage on the personal plot, the toilet and utilities serving the kitchen and bathroom cannot function without a cesspool. In this case, the slate is used to strengthen its walls. The sheets are cut to fit the pit walls, just go down. In order for the sheets not to fall, they are fastened together with the corners of the reinforcement. Further, reinforcement rods are placed in the slots between the pit and the slate sheets. The slots are filling cement mortar... In order for the walls of the cesspool to withstand the pressure, they are burst with wooden bars, as shown in the photo.

After the concrete is dry, the toilet sump is ready.

Disputes about the dangers of slate

Many, after reading the article, put forward a lot of arguments in favor of refusing to use the material described. But experts are in a hurry to calm everyone down. The described material is made from a mixture of three ingredients: Portland cement, asbestos fiber and water. The first two components are completely safe for human health. But asbestos fiber can raise suspicion.

There are several varieties of such material, two are used in the production of slate:

amphibole-asbestos (natural base);
chrysotile asbestos (a derivative of the serpentine group).

European scientists have conducted research and found that slate of the first variety can be called dangerous to humans. In Russia, amphibole-asbestos is not used for the production of roofing material. Therefore, for those who are afraid for their health, experts recommend purchasing slate of domestic brands. It can be easily used on a personal plot without fear.

As you can see, the use of old slate helps to solve purely practical problems on the household farm. You can make a temporary toilet, an outdoor shower, assemble a greenhouse or any fences using waste.

How to make a chest with your own hands

How to make a box with your own hands

How to choose a tent for a summer residence

Grill from a gas cylinder with your own hands

montazhnik02.ru

How to replace a cesspool

The function of a cesspool is performed by a metal container (for example, a bucket) with a capacity of 12-15 liters. As it is filled, the contents of the container are sprinkled on top with a certain amount of ash, peat or sawdust from a specially installed box for this purpose. The approximate period for filling the collection container is 10-14 days.

It is better to empty the collection containers into the ground to a considerable depth (about 1 meter).

It is done like this. With the help of a garden drill, a hole with a diameter of 200 mm and a depth of about 1 m is drilled in the ground at the border of the near-trunk circle of a fruit tree or at the level of its crown. A collection tank is emptied into this well and again filled with excavated soil. There is a kind of sealing of feces in the base soil. The next emptying can be done side by side, retreating in a circle by 20-25 cm.

Before emptying the collection container, a small amount of slowly decomposing waste (broken glass, ceramics, etc.) can be placed in the drilled well.

Construction of a toilet in the country

Country toilet project

Making a toilet booth is akin to building a model of a house: a project (sketch), markings on the ground, foundation, lower strapping, wall erection, upper strapping and rafter system, roofing, flooring, door hinges, glazing, interior design and exterior decoration. All construction elements are simplified, minimized, almost toy-like, but allow you to gain experience and practice working techniques.

The project (sketch) determines the shape, basic dimensions of the toilet, as well as the initial building materials and their quantity. The appearance of the future structure is determined by the presence of one or another building material.

Usually the toilet is made of wood, but you can use an asbestos-cement slab (flat slate) and even aerated concrete blocks. The most common form of toilet - "birdhouse" - the most rational: it is technologically advanced, has a large functional volume.

If the project (sketch) has been drawn up, that is, the main dimensions are determined, the site is marked on the spot: the pegs are hammered in and the cords are pulled, defining the boundaries of the structure. The rectangularity of such a small area can be set using an unfolded newspaper sheet, and the accuracy can be checked using a tape measure by measuring the diagonals.

Below you can see a few examples drawings of projects of country toilets. To view it, you must click on any of the images.

Drawings of country toilets

Toilet foundation

For most toilet booth designs, four 260x330x440 mm concrete blocks installed in the corners are suitable as a foundation. To install them, you just need to remove the top soil layer (15-20 cm). It is important that the top surfaces of the blocks lie in the same plane.
Plane control can be carried out using a level and a piece of a suitable board. On top of each block, two or three layers of roofing material are placed for waterproofing.

The bottom piping is installed on the foundation blocks. The easiest way is to make it from pieces of timber tied “in half a tree” and tied together with staples (the rod of the staple is recessed into a specially hollowed out socket on the surface of the bars). It is preferable to use an edged board (40 or 50 mm thick) for the bottom strapping.

The sides of the bottom harness are made from two pieces of edged board, knocked down with nails through a spacer of the same thickness, as shown in the figure below.

In this case, grooves are naturally formed in the lower strapping, into which the spikes of the enclosing walls can then be inserted. The sides of the lower strapping are fastened using wood grouse screws (diameter 8-10 mm).

Walling

The walls of the toilet booth, due to their small size, can be made in the form of shields from an upholstery board (lining). Sections of the upholstery board of a given size are packed onto two planed frame boards, which have the same thickness as the boards of the lower strapping. The front shield is stuffed onto three planks so that the doorway can be decorated.

To give rigidity to the shields, a brace must be cut between the frame boards. The pictures below show the front, back and side shields. The parts of the frame boards protruding in the lower part of the shields are spikes, which, when installing the booth, are inserted into the grooves of the lower strapping.

Installation of walls consists in sequential installation of boards in the grooves of the lower strapping and fastening the frame boards of adjacent boards using wood grouse screws (3-4 pieces per corner). In fact, these wood grouse screws perform the function of the upper strapping, since they give the necessary rigidity to the entire building.

Country toilet roof

The rafter system is just two boards embedded in the top of the side shields (picture below).

A crate is stuffed onto these two boards, which is best made solid from the lining face down. In this case, you do not need to hem the ceiling and roof overhangs.

A reliable and simple roof is obtained from two layers of roofing material. Roofing material is attached to the crate
pulley buttons with a frequency of 15-20 cm.

Flooring

The floor is laid from 50 mm thick edged boards. The front and side surfaces of the floorboards are cleanly sharpened and nailed to the inner boards of the lower strapping with gaps (slots) of 5-10 mm. The gaps will help ventilation as well as drying the floor after wet cleaning.

Door hardware

The toilet door consists of a frame with a brace and a paneling. The brace is cut diagonally of the frame, passing from the upper corner of the vestibule to the lower hinge. The cladding is made of lining, located vertically. It is advisable to equip the door with an overhead lock for locking at the end of the season.

Toilet container

The collection container is placed in the frame shown in the figure below.

The frame is made from bars with a cross section of 40 × 40 mm or 50 × 50 mm. In the frame, the front wall is completely sewn up with clapboard, and the upper wall, in which the hole is cut, is made completely removable. In this form, this structure is the most convenient for hygienic cleaning (washing and frying in the sun). The removable top cover allows you to conveniently attach the simplest "apron" (a piece of PVC film). In the booth of the powder closet, there should also be a box or other container with peat, ash or sawdust.

Flat slate toilet

Wood, of course, is the most affordable and technologically advanced material, but if an asbestos-cement slab (flat slate) is supposed to be used for other buildings (garage, utility block), then it is also suitable for a toilet booth.

To work with an asbestos-cement slab, you will need an electric cutting machine (grinder) equipped with an abrasive stone or diamond cutting disc... Asbestos-cement sheets with a thickness of 8-10 mm are cut to form the front, back and both side walls of the toilet booth (similar to Figure 2 above). These walls are assembled on screws using frame boards, and then installation is carried out in the same way as described above. In this case, the door leaf is also made of an asbestos-cement sheet fixed to a wooden frame, which is used for inserting hinges, locks and other mounting devices.

For the convenience and safety of using products made from asbestos-cement sheets, it is desirable to cover them with film-forming compounds (varnish, drying oil, paint, etc.).

Video

Country toilet do it yourself

5domov.ru

What toilet to make in the country

Before starting construction, you need to choose the type of country toilet. This is not about the house, but about its internal structure. By the type of device, they can be divided into two large groups: with or without a cesspool. If the groundwater level at the site is high - higher than 3.5 meters - your choice is limited only to toilets without a cesspool, otherwise the water will inevitably contain residues of waste products. Similar restrictions are imposed on areas at the base of which there are natural cracks, as well as on shale rocks. On other soils with deeper aquifers, a booth of any design can be installed.

With a cesspool

When choosing this option, you need to take into account that the depth of the pit should be 1 meter less than the highest groundwater level (usually spring). Its volume is chosen depending on the frequency of visits and the number of people. For example, in houses of permanent residence for 2-3 people, a volume of 1.5 cubic meters is sufficient. For summer cottages visited mainly on weekends, the cesspool for the toilet may be smaller.

The shape of the container is any, but more often it is made square, sometimes round. The walls are laid out of bricks, concrete, rubble masonry, tarred wood. You can make a container from concrete rings. Only in this case it will be necessary to worry about the tightness of the joints and the bottom.

To ensure tightness, a layer of compacted clay (clay castle) with a thickness of 20-30 cm is made under the masonry and on the sides.If you are reluctant to tamper with the clay, you can cover the finished masonry with impregnation, which gives the materials an increased degree of waterproofing (bituminous or cement-based).

A cesspool for a summer residence must be equipped with a ventilation system. A large-diameter pipe (at least 100 mm) is built into the pit, the second end of which rises at least 50-70 cm above the roof of the house (or house). Also, a ventilation window is made in the house itself. It can be on the door or on one of the side walls.

When filling more than 2/3 of the volume, the contents of the pit are pumped out by a machine with a vacuum cleaner. When planning a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands, take into account that a car must drive up to the pit.

There are two types of cesspool organization:

The usual one is under the house.
Backlash closet - the pit is located to the side. With such a structure, the toilet bowl can stand in the house, and the sewage through pipes laid at a certain slope gets into the container.

The construction of a backlash closet in the country is a very expensive undertaking, unless you still decide to make an extension or a summer house in your house - a full-fledged residential building in which you spend a lot of time. You will need a full ventilation system, water for flushing, and pipes will need to be laid below the depth of soil freezing. And since they have to go at an angle, then the cesspool sinks to a decent depth.

When installing a toilet of this type, it is important to withstand the slope of the pipe - it should be 2-3 cm per meter. You don't need to do more or less - in this range. If the slope is reduced, there is a risk that the content will stagnate. If you do more, the water will run away, and the hard and heavier inclusions will remain in the pipe and will spread "aromas".

Read about methods of odor elimination in an outdoor toilet with a cesspool here.

Without a cesspool

Most toilets without a cesspool are much easier and faster to build. They collect waste in an airtight container, which is usually placed directly under the toilet seat. The difference is how the waste is processed and the odor is neutralized. There are the following types:

Powder closet. A container with peat, ash, sawdust, earth or a mixture of these components is also placed in the booth. After visiting the toilet, the waste is covered with a layer of this powder - powdered. Hence the name.
Peat toilet. This is a kind of powder closet. But for dusting, only crushed peat is used. There are also industrial peat toilets. They are very similar to the usual apartment toilet bowls with a cistern. But the tank contains not water, but a crumb of peat. After visiting the toilet, you need to crank the handle on the tank several times, from where the peat will sprinkle.
Bio toilet. Waste falls into a container filled with a solution containing microorganisms that process them. These booths can often be seen as street toilets in cities. Dry closets are sold both together with plastic cubicles, and separately - only a toilet bowl with a capacity.
Chemical toilet. The principle of processing is the same as in the dry closet, only not microorganisms are used, but chemicals. They usually come in powder or tablet form. Waste processed in this way cannot be used as fertilizer. They periodically need to be drained into the sewer.

The advantages of country toilets without a cesspool (also called dry) are significant:

you don't need to dig a hole and fiddle with sealing it;
no need to call a flusher (pay for it) and organize an entrance for the car;
builds quickly;
recycled waste can be used as fertilizer.

The disadvantages are also considerable:

Factory made toilets aren't cheap.
It is necessary to periodically change the container.
It is necessary to monitor the availability of means of neutralization.

Read how to make an inexpensive but beautiful path to the toilet here.

Standards for installing a toilet on the site

Most of the restrictions apply to pit latrines: it is necessary to limit possible contamination. The norms are:

To the source of water - lakes, rivers, wells, wells, etc. - must be at least 25 meters. This also applies to sources located in neighboring areas.
The basement or cellar is at least 12 meters away.
To the nearest inhabited building - a shower, a bath - at least 8 meters.
Buildings where animals are kept are at least 4 meters away.
Nearest trees should be 4 meters away, bushes 1 meter away.

The rest of the rules are valid for all types of toilets:

There must be at least 1 meter to the border of the plot.
Doors should not open towards the adjacent area.
When choosing a location, the prevailing wind direction must be taken into account.

When choosing a place where you will build a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands, pay attention not only to your own buildings and objects, but also to neighbors. This will help avoid friction with them and with the sanitary station.

If you are going to build a toilet with a cesspool, you need to add to all the listed requirements - the organization of an entrance for a sewer truck.

The construction of a country shower is described in this article.

How to make a toilet in the country with your own hands

You have already gone through the first two steps: you have chosen the type of toilet and where to install it. The next step is to choose the sizes. It is not so difficult to decide on them. They told how to choose the volume of the cesspool - 1.5 cubic meters is enough for 2-3 people, now about what size the toilet house should be. It all depends on your own desire and on the size of the owners. IN standard version make toilets of the following sizes:

height - 220 cm;
width - 150 cm;
depth - 100 cm.

These dimensions are convenient for people with an average build. You can change them as you like. There are no standards.

Toilet houses are most often made of wood. But this is not the rule. It can be made of sheet material such as fiberboard, gypsum plasterboard, flat slate, brick and any other building materials, profiled sheet metal, even plastic.

The most favorite roofing material for a country toilet is slate. It is inexpensive to install a soft roof made of welded materials. In general, you can use any available one. It is attached to a solid crate, so there is not much difference.

Building a village toilet

The last stage is the actual construction. The procedure is determined by the type of toilet you will be building. If with a cesspool, do it first.

Toilet cesspool

The procedure for construction is as follows:

A pit is dug in the chosen place. Its dimensions are 30-40 cm larger than the planned size of the cesspool.
At the bottom, 20-30 cm of clay diluted to a pasty state is laid and rammed: a clay lock is made, which will prevent the penetration of sewage into the soil. Therefore, lay the layers without voids.
Lay out the bottom and walls of the pit made of brick, rubble, thick boards impregnated with resin. The main thing is that the walls do not allow moisture to pass through: it should not flow either inside or from the inside. Therefore, waterproofing measures are necessary. Therefore, it is advisable to plaster the walls of the cesspool, and then smear with hydrophobic impregnation. Only one that can withstand aggressive environments.
The gap between the erected walls and the ground is laid with soaked clay - and then a clay castle is made. This is waterproofing on the outside.
A ceiling is laid on top of the pit. Usually it is made of boards (at least 40 mm thick). There should be two holes in the ceiling - one for installing the toilet seat, the second for organizing the hatch. The evacuation hatch is usually made double - so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate.
Install a ventilation pipe.

In order not to mess with masonry and waterproofing, you can install a special plastic container - a septic tank. They come in different volumes and designs - with one or two necks.

The pit is digging a little more than the size of the selected septic tank, the container is installed, filled with previously removed soil. The device of such a cesspool is many times faster and more reliable.

Country toilet cubicle

Any toilet for a summer residence is installed in a small cabin-house. It is easiest to make a rectangular structure with a pitched roof with your own hands: a minimum of time, costs and materials.

The first step is to take care of the availability of the floor. It needs to be lifted some distance above the ground. It is more convenient to do this with the help of posts folded in the corners of the building. It is hardly worth bury them to the depth of freezing of the soil, but it is necessary to bury them in the ground 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. They are usually folded from bricks, rubble stone, they can be poured from concrete, etc. On such a basis, during heaving, the booth will rise, but usually this does not lead to any serious damage: the structure is small.

The flooring is laid on the prepared posts. It is usually made of wood. It is desirable to smear wood protective impregnations: the environment is aggressive, and even the impact of climatic factors.
Install vertical racks from a bar of 100 * 100 mm or larger section. The height is chosen depending on the height of the "visitors", but is rarely lower than 2.2 m. The front pillars are made several centimeters (10-15 cm) longer to ensure the roof slope. They are attached to the podium using metal plates or support bars. Previously, predominantly long nails were used, now more and more screws are used.
The upper part is tied around the perimeter with the same bar.
From a bar of the same section or less thickness (50 * 100 mm) they make out doorway... Its width depends on the width of the existing door.
If there are strong winds in the region, you can install additional jibs - inclined beams between the vertical ones.
The frame is sheathed.
They make a continuous crate on the roof - the boards are nailed close or put a piece of plywood, fiberboard, gypsum fiber board.
Roofing material is laid and fixed.
Hanging doors.

As it turned out, building a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands is not so difficult. It takes little time and cost. But in the process, you will acquire useful skills.

stroychik.ru

Slate cesspool construction technology

What is this design? This is one tank that has no bottom. Instead, there is a drainage layer through which water will be transported into the soil. A drain pipe is supplied to the pit.

Please note: before proceeding with the installation of the device, you need to determine its location on the site with all standards and norms. You will be helped by information about the required distance from the cesspool to the nearest objects.

If you are making a slate cesspool for a toilet, then you should follow the following construction technology:

First you need to dig a hole. It should be rectangular, square.
In order to develop the soil, you will need a shovel, buckets and a cart.

You choose the depth of the pit yourself, here it is important to take into account the number of people regularly living in the house, as well as the amount of daily drains consumed.

After that, put a 30 cm layer of sand and gravel in the pit on the bottom and tamp it down, this will be a drainage layer.
After you prepare the pit, you need to make a metal frame. To do this, weld a frame pit made of steel corners, which will fit on the bottom of the tank. There should be two such frames. The first frame is laid on the bottom of the slate drain pit. The pipes in the corners must also be welded to the lower frame. The same process needs to be done for the second frame. This will give you a rectangular frame.
Next, you need to equip the walls of the pit. You will need many pieces of flat slate that you need to cut yourself. Then they go down into the tank, you need to sew up all sides of the previously prepared frame. In order to fix the slate, use self-tapping screws.
After all the preliminary work has been completed, you need to use soil to fill the space between the slate and the walls of the slate cesspool for the toilet in the country.
Then tamp the soil and make a cover. Further, you can already install the toilet itself in the country with a cesspool.

If you make a cesspool from flat slate for a toilet, namely from wave slate, then the installation work changes slightly. You will need to stack the slate sheets one on top of the other. Until that moment, until there is 35 cm from the top of the pit. After that, you should bring the drain pipe into the upper third of the stack of sheets. Next, strengthen the walls of the structure with slate and also fill the empty places with soil.

vivoz-gbo.ru

Types of cesspools

A cesspool in a private house may have different scheme and construction, created from various materials. There are several types of pits:

bottomless structures;
septic tanks;
sealed storage systems.

Schematic location of the cesspool and its system

Advantages of different types of structures

When it comes to the simplicity and cost of the design, then the storage system can be the best solution. But it has drawbacks, as the waste will remain in it, it will quickly fill up, after which you will need to hire an expensive sewer truck to clean it. Such a system is not suitable for houses with permanent residence, because, due to significant costs, the water tank will have to be cleaned at intervals of a week.

The bottomless design is small. Its main advantages include:

no need for constant cleaning;
has small parameters.

However, waste will enter the soil and pollute it. A pit without a bottom is suitable for arranging a summer cottage, where sewers are not often used. With a daily water consumption of up to 1m3, the soil will clean itself on its own.

The third and popular type of pit for private houses is a septic tank. The device can mechanically clean the incoming wastewater. A septic tank can consist of one or several chambers, and its bottom is made of gravel, blocks, broken bricks. The walls of the septic tank can be laid out with bricks or concreted. With this design, the soil will be less contaminated, because at first the waste will be cleared through the stones. Such a cesspool would be the best option for a private house.

The main points in the organization of the sewer system

When designing a cesspool, the main details should be considered:

the container can be without a bottom or sealed with regular cleaning with a vacuum cleaner;
the sewer container should be located at a safe distance from groundwater and buildings (outbuildings - from 3 m, residential buildings - from 5 m);
it is necessary to provide easy access for cleaning the container;
the parameters of the sewerage capacity depend on the number of people living in the house (on average, about 0.5 m3 of water is diverted per person).

To prevent feces from entering the aquifer, the distance between the lower level of the sewer hole in the soil and the water source should not be less than 1 m.

the location of the sewer hole

Based on the type of soil, the distance from the well or well to the drainage pit can be 20-50 m.

Materials for the manufacture of budget sewerage

There is the most affordable and versatile solution for the construction of a sewer from scrap materials. For example, a cesspool can be made of slate. To do this, it is better to use a wave material, since the walls of a flat slate will be more fragile. One slate sheet is laid on the ground, after which the walls are made from several sheets. The waves are superimposed. When 45 cm remains to the top of the pit, a drain pipe is inserted. Broken slate and soil should be poured into the empty space.

Another affordable and cheap way would be to build a sewer from tires. The sides of the tires should be cut off with a jigsaw because of the metal cord. After that, the tires are placed in the made hole, and its bottom is covered with broken brick or rubble. In the tire, which will be located higher than the others, a hole for the drain pipe is pre-made. After that, a metal sheet is laid on the tires, and the structure is covered with soil.

Sewerage made of wood is often used. This option will be inexpensive, but the boards must be treated with mastic or another type of protective material against decay. It is not difficult to make a cesspool: formwork is made from the boards. But the service life of the product will not exceed 10 years.

An inexpensive solution for a private house can be a barrel pit. For its construction, you can use a metal or wooden barrel. Several containers of the same material can be used. The bottom of the barrels is cut off and stacked on top of each other. The larger the diameter of the container, the better. Mini-tanks will be optimal. Barrels of steel can be welded together, and wooden containers are hammered together with nails. The bottom of the pit is filled with broken brick, and a hole is made in the upper tank at a height of 35 cm for the sewer pipeline. The structure can be covered with a metal sheet or boards and covered with soil. This variant of the cesspool is the most inexpensive, and its scheme resembles a sewer from tires.

Other options for cesspools

The device of a cesspool in a private house can be made of concrete rings, plastic or metal containers.

construction of a cesspool made of concrete rings

At the preparatory stage during the construction of the sewage system, the organization of the drain tank and the options for its installation are selected.

A more reliable way to build a sewer system is to use concrete rings. But for the work, heavy equipment will be required, with the help of which the rings will fit into the prepared foundation pit. The cesspool can be with or without a bottom.

When using an iron or plastic reservoir to create a sewer, it can be placed horizontally or vertically in the soil. All work can be done independently without the use of special expensive equipment, but the effectiveness of the cesspool is limited by specific terms.

1. Construction of a sewage system from concrete rings

When arranging a sewer system made of concrete rings, it is better to use PVC pipelines to drain wastewater into a well. The pipes should be positioned so that the exit from them is in the foundation of the building slightly below the soil freezing zone. This will protect them from water freezing, deformation and sewage breakdown. If it is not possible to place the pipelines at the optimum depth, it is necessary to make a gravel-sand cushion, waterproofing and insulation around them.

An optimal-sized pit should be prepared under the sewer tank. This takes into account the thickness of the concrete rings, including the size of the insulation. If a cesspool with a bottom made of concrete is provided, then sand with gravel is first rammed, a pillow is poured and after laying the reinforcement, the bottom is finally covered with a concrete solution.

construction of a brick cesspool

After 24 hours, concrete rings can be laid, the joints between which are treated with a concrete solution or sealant. In the area of \u200b\u200bsoil freezing, a hole is being prepared in the upper ring for mounting a drain pipe in the tank.

After the final installation of the structure, it should be closed with a lid so that the opening for pumping out organic waste remains accessible. Also in the hatch there is a tube for exhausting gases.

Around the constructed structure, soil with sand and gravel is laid, after which they are compacted.

The construction of a sewer without a bottom from concrete rings is done according to a similar scheme. The difference lies in the replacement of concreting with a sand-gravel "pillow" with a layer of 30-50 cm. It will act as a natural filter before water enters the ground. Due to the lack of a bottom, such an installation will need to be cleaned less often (once a year or several years).

2. Construction of a sewerage system from a plastic or metal container

Often, homeowners choose capacious tanks as a cesspool. A homemade faeces chamber can be iron barrel... But the metal is not able to provide reliable and non-stop operation of the sewage system due to the instability of corrosion, rapid failure. After a while, the overhaul of the cesspool may be required.

the location of the cesspool on the site

The best solution for a cesspool would be a plastic container, the walls of which are protected from the action of organic waste entering the interior. When digging a pit, the parameters of the plastic tank are taken into account. The bottom of the pit is reinforced with a sand and gravel pad or concrete mortar... 24 hours after the preparatory work, you can install a container, on the side of which, in the area of \u200b\u200bsoil freezing, an opening is made for the supply of the drain pipeline. All joints are treated with a sealant.

Due to the lack of drainage in such a sewer structure, it must be periodically cleaned with a sewer.

Installation of pipes

The autonomous sewage system of a private house includes a treatment plant, as well as a sewer pipeline. Correct pipe-laying is essential to ensure proper system operation.

Pipes should be laid according to the following rules:

you need to start their installation from the storage tank in the direction of the details of the internal sewage system of the house;
the pipeline must be insulated to protect it from freezing in cold weather. To do this, you can use the "sandwich" technology, wrapping the pipe with insulation made of specialized foamed polyethylene, on which an asbestos-cement pipeline is then put on;
pipes can be connected by couplings or by welding;
the number of turns should be minimized and pipe bends should be removed so that there are no blockages;
for the gravity flow of drains, an optimal slope must be created;
if it is necessary to design a turn of pipes, a rotary sewer well is installed in this area from concrete rings.

Creation of a drainage system

With correctly calculated and created drainage system the house is protected from water, there is no flooding of roads and vegetation.

cesspool drainage and drainage system

For cesspools with a bottom, open or closed drainage can be created. The first option is created from drainage ditches, which are filled with small stones or gravel. They provide drainage to a water intake (swamp, river or lake). The second option is more durable, its design is a trench filled with sand or fine rubble with laid drainage pipelines. The pipes divert ground or rainwater at the created slope.

We have already written about the construction of cesspools using tires, concrete rings and barrels, today we will write to you about how to build a sewer well from asbestos slate. We will talk about using flat slate, but this does not mean that this task cannot be dealt with using corrugated slate.

What materials will be required in order to complete the construction of a well

In order to build a well, you will need the following:

Flat slate sheets;
steel pipes;
steel wire;
corners;
shovel;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, building level;
tachanka.

Note that you can equip a pit for a country toilet in the same way, but this is how we are, by the way.

How to build a cesspool using slate

In the next step, you need to start arranging the walls of the well. Everything is simple here. The task is to cut the required number of pieces of flat slate, and then lower it into the pit, sewing all sides of the rectangular frame. Self-tapping screws can be used to fix the slate.

www.raznyesamodelki.ru

Pros and cons of using pits

The building that I want to talk about belongs to the category of local treatment facilities that are used to accumulate or process sewage from a private house.

A cesspool for a country toilet is a fairly simple design, but it has both advantages and disadvantages. I will sound for you both the first and the second.

pros	Minuses
Sustainability... Sealed cesspools accumulate organic waste, which is then pumped out with the help of sewage equipment and disposed of at city sewage treatment plants.	The appearance of an unpleasant odor.If you do not take care of the removal of biological gases, the sump can publish bad smell and spoil your comfortable stay outside the city.
Ease of installation and operation.The pit is erected very quickly and easily, and it is even easier to use it: you just need to call specialists in a timely manner to pump out the sewage.	The need to call technology.For waste disposal, you must call special equipment. Although, I once told you how you can clean the pit yourself.
Possibility of installation in any area. Even if the groundwater level is high (as it was in my case).

Be that as it may, my neighbor asked me to build a cesspool. But he didn’t say what. Therefore, I had to choose the design myself. But more on that below.

Varieties of designs

I have constructed pits from everything imaginable. But most often there were such options:

The pit has no cladding at all. It is hardly used in construction, as it can contaminate groundwater and soil. In addition, the soil from the walls crumbles during operation, therefore the useful volume of the structure is constantly decreasing.
Tire pit.Car tires (old) are used as wall material. This design, I know from experience, has served for about 30 years. There are two disadvantages: a small volume of capacity (if you do not use tires from a mining truck) and its leakage.
Slate pit.I built this one somehow. The design is very simple, leaky and ineffective. Suitable as a temporary measure until you build something decent.
A pit made of bricks. The structure is solid, but short-lived. With poor waterproofing, water from the drains will penetrate into the thickness of the brick walls, which will quickly lead to their destruction.
A pit from ready-made containers.It's not really a pit, but rather a sealed large barrel that is buried in the ground. Sold in building supermarkets. An excellent option, if you are not afraid of the high price.
A pit made of concrete rings. Robust and durable design option. I often built such pits, but here you cannot do without the help of a crane. Do not lower the ring into the prepared pit yourself.
Monolithic concrete pit. This option appeals to me the most. Such a structure can be made independently and I will talk about it below.

Pit construction

So, let's consider how a pit for a toilet is made in the country with our own hands from monolithic concrete. The instructions below are divided into several steps for convenience.

Determination of tank volume and installation location

First, I need the depth and width of the toilet pit in the country. That is, in another way, the volume or amount of impurities that will need to be stored in it.

This parameter depends on the number of people living in the country house and the intensity of use. I took as a basis the fact that the dwelling will be used intermittently, but only in the summer season. In addition, the house will not be equipped with washing machines and dishwashers, which use and drain large amounts of water into the local sewer.

If you are faced with the task of building a local sewerage system for a private house, then it is better to build a septic tank that not only accumulates, but also cleans the drains. It needs to be cleaned of waste much less often using a sewage machine.

a person consumes on average about half a cubic meter of water;
five people are supposed to stay at the dacha (grandmother, grandfather, a young man with his wife and their child);
the house has a heater with a capacity of 150 liters;
then one person needs 150 liters of water per day, for all 750 liters;
determine the final volume on the basis of how often you want to call a flusher;
i stopped at once a month, that is, the pit will have a volume of 20 cubic meters;
respectively, the dimensions are 2 by 5 by 3 meters.

At the same time, I will immediately say that I did not deepen it much downward, since groundwater passes through there. Therefore, I made it wide and long, but not very deep.

When designing, I also recommend taking into account one point. No matter how full the sewer truck is, you will have to pay the same amount for calling it. Therefore, calculate the volume so that the tank of special equipment is completely filled (there is nothing to drive it empty for your own money).

Now about the placement. Information about where the cesspool that I am building is located will not be of interest to you, but in order to choose the right point for digging a pit for your own construction, I will point out the basic rules:

it should be 25 meters away from a well or well;
from a residential building - 5 meters;
from the road common use - 5 meters;
from a natural reservoir - 30 meters;
from trees and bushes - 3 meters;
from the fence of your site - 3 meters.

So take a plan and decide where to put it. But do not be wise, otherwise it will be difficult to make an external sewer later.

Preparatory work

And now I'm starting to build a pit. For this I need the following materials:

portland cement grade M400 - at least 7 bags;
crushed stone, which will play the role of a filler in concrete;
sand as part of the solution;
a waterproofing agent - in my case, a bituminous coating.

Also, you can't do without tools:

two bayonet shovels with handles of different lengths;
shovel for collecting soil;
measuring tool;
stairs;
laser level (you can take a water level);
rope and trowel;
spatula and brush.

Before digging a pit for the toilet, I took the pegs and a white rope and marked the place on the site where the future pit will be located. I marked the distance more, since I am going to put both the external and internal formwork.

But if you have solid soil on your site, you can use the walls of the foundation pit as external formwork. Then the hole must be dug exactly according to the external dimensions of the future storage tank.

You also need to go a little lower than the designed depth of the pit (in my case, 3 meters). Crushed stone and sand will be poured down, so it is necessary to provide for this a space with a height of about 30-50 cm.

Moreover, after pouring the floor, I plan to sketch on top of the ground and plant the grass. Therefore, my three-meter (deep) pit requires a pit at least 4 meters deep.

I got this thing:

After the excavation was completed, I carefully leveled the soil below and poured a layer of sand mixed with rubble there. I tamped it, spilled it with some water and tamped it again to prevent soil shrinkage during the operation of the building.

And then he started designing the formwork.

Formwork erection

For the manufacture of enclosing structures, into which concrete will be poured, I used:

OSB boards - they can be wrapped with plastic wrap to make it easier to dismantle and organize the correct dehydration of the monolith;
wooden blocks - with their help I made stiffeners;
self-tapping screws - you can take any, not necessarily galvanized.

Immediately I draw your attention to the fact that I will have both internal and external formwork. But many have only an inner one. So refract the proposed instruction to fit your conditions.

So, the instructions for installing the formwork are as follows:

I installed OSB sheets and secured them together with wooden bars. It is better if you have enough sheet length to make the formwork for the entire height of the walls. If this is not the case, you will have to work in several stages.

I reinforced the formwork with a plastic film that protects it from getting wet. You can, by the way, replace it with rolls of roofing material. And if you use steel sheets instead of OSB boards or plywood, it is not at all necessary to lay waterproofing.

Concreted the bottom of the septic tank.There is no need to equip a perfectly flat surface (as, for example, in a house). The main thing is that there are no voids inside the concrete slab.
Therefore, I mixed a concrete solution of cement, sand and crushed stone, after which I poured it into the formwork and poked it many times with a crowbar to compact the surface. Not visible in the photo below, but along the edge of the formwork, I put reinforcement bars in order to then tie the floor surface and the monolithic concrete walls together.

Installed internal formwork.To do this, I took off the dimensions in advance, after which I made something like a box made of OSB slabs, which I installed in the future cesspool and fixed in place so that it would be at the same distance from the external enclosing structure.
So it is not entirely clear from the text, but from the illustration you will immediately understand what's what.

I made a hole and inserted a pipe through which the sewage from the toilet will drain into the pit.If this is not done in advance, then you will have to drill concrete, seal the hole, and so on and so forth.
In the photo, the installed branch pipe is marked with a blue oval.

This is how I made the formwork. Additionally, I note that I did not use reinforcement when building the pit. If you see a need for this, then install a frame made of metal rods in the gap between two formwork: internal and external.

In the meantime, I will move on to the most important thing - concreting.

Wall construction

This stage will be the longest in time, since after pouring the concrete it is necessary for it to completely freeze, which takes several weeks (the exact time depends on the weather conditions).

For concreting, I used homemade concrete, which was made from M400 Portland cement (one part), sand (two parts) and crushed stone filler (three parts). In addition, I used the Master Silk additive, which makes the finished mortar more plastic, it fills the formwork better.

I mixed everything with an electric concrete mixer.

There is no point in describing the technology of work here. You just need to mix the required amount of mortar and fill the formwork with it. In this case, the concrete must be carefully rammed so that there are no voids inside the walls.

Then I left this whole structure alone until the solution was completely solidified. It took 15 days. Then he dismantled the formwork. It turned out like this.

This completes the construction of the walls, but I did not begin to remove the concrete mixer far. After all, there is still a floor filling ahead. But before that, to make it convenient to work, I decided to waterproof the bottom and walls of my monumental structure.

Waterproofing

Here I immediately want to apologize to the readers. I waterproofed the walls of the cesspool for the country toilet using bituminous mastic... This event is rather "dirty", so I could not take up the phone and photograph the process.

Well, the process itself took place in this way:

First, I went down into a concrete pit and thoroughly cleaned all surfaces of dirt. If you have any cracks or other defects after drying, they need to be eliminated. Everything was fine with me.

Then he heated up the bitumen with a gas burner until its consistency began to resemble liquid sour cream.

After that, a liter of diesel fuel was added to the bitumen bucket. Gasoline can also be used, but be sure to remove the bucket from the fire to prevent a fire.
I treated the walls of the cesspool with the first layer. For this I used a wide and thick paint brush. After that, I waited until it dries.
I smeared the walls with bitumen again.

If you don't want to mess around with heating the bitumen, buy water-soluble emulsions or special compounds for waterproofing concrete. But know that they dry much longer.

Bitumen stinks strongly during work. Therefore, I did not do the upper overlap of the sump until I finished waterproofing. Otherwise, I would have to writhe in a dark and "smelling" hole, brushing the walls.

Floor installation

The easiest way to shut off a septic tank is to buy and install a reinforced concrete slab. But you need to deliver it with something, and call a crane to install it. So I have resorted to an easier way:

I designed a ready-made formwork, with which I will make an inspection hatch above the cesspool.

After that, I made a horizontal formwork from the OSB slab (it will not be removed), which will help me build a concrete floor.

Then I laid out the reinforcement on the installed horizontal formwork so that I got a reinforcing frame. To do this, I used rods 8 cm thick, which I tied together with wire.
In this case, the reinforcement is needed so that the ceiling can withstand a heavy load. After all, as I said, I'm going to pour earth on top.
The photos have not survived, so I will show an illustration from another object, where the ceiling was constructed from rolled metal and slate sheets.

After that, I filled everything with concrete, installing the inside of the box for the inspection hatch and inserting a piece of the ventilation pipe. In the end, it turned out like this.

Then, after the concrete, which was poured into the upper floor, had completely dried out, I installed the outer part of the formwork around the box and filled the hatch with concrete. More or less like this.

On this we can say that the work on the construction of a cesspool on my neighbor's site has been completed.

obustroeno.com

Cesspool volume calculations

When calculating the size of the cesspool for the bath, as well as the sewage system for the house, many factors must be taken into account in order to ensure the maximum performance of the structure. First you need to draw up a project of a sewage pit, choose what type it will be, calculate the volume. In particular, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

who will use the sauna and how often;
characteristics of the soil where the drain pit will be located.

If there are a lot of users, accordingly, a larger sump is required. Sandy soils are better able to absorb liquids, so in this case, you can build a small waste pit. But on loams and clay, water leaves very slowly, an additional absorption area is needed here.

In areas where the soil is resistant, it is possible not to engage in additional strengthening of the walls. But where the soil is crumbling, care should be taken that the pit does not fill up. Errors in the construction of a cesspool will affect the quality and durability of its functioning, therefore, all the nuances should be taken into account when carrying out work in order to avoid troubles during operation.

Since mainly water will accumulate in the cesspool under the bathhouse, and it will be inconstant to steam there, there is no need to install a complex structure, an ordinary cesspool in the bathhouse can handle the collection and recycling of waste.

Necessary materials

In the process of building a cesspool, you will need tools and materials that are probably in the garage of the owner of the house or in the arsenal of the summer resident. Depending on which structure will be installed, materials are also selected. If the soil on the site is good, does not crumble, absorbs water, additional strengthening of the walls and bottom is not required. However, such conditions are very rare. In most cases, care must be taken that during operation the cesspool under the bath does not fall asleep, does not clog up with earth crumbling from the walls.

A drainage pad should be placed at the bottom of the drain pit for a more thorough cleaning of waste from the pit. For this, crushed stone and sand are often used. The following materials are excellent for strengthening the walls:

brick;
slate;
reinforced concrete rings;
car tires;
metal barrels;
plastic tanks.

The most optimal and economical option is to use materials at hand, that is, those that are at the disposal of the owner. These can be used tires from a car (large size), bricks left over after dismantling some household structures, metal barrels that were once used for household purposes.

Earthworks

In the process of arranging a sewage system for a bath, the first stage will be earthworks. To do this, you can use a special technique, or you can dig a trench with your own hands. The second stage is much more time consuming, but economical. Using the technique requires access to the bathhouse.

After carrying out the land work, the land remained on the site. Leaving it that way will ruin the aesthetics of the site. It is necessary not only to dispose of it, but to use it with benefit. Often this soil is poured over the beds in the garden, if the soil is of high quality. If not, you can simply dispose of the soil.

A do-it-yourself drain pit for a bathhouse will not be complete if you do not provide a drainage layer, which is laid after digging a pit. The bottom of the cesspool for the bath must be made waterproof, and the walls will be responsible for the intake of liquid from the container. Sprinkle the bottom with a mixture of sand and crushed stone. Well, if there is construction waste, it works great too. The drainage layer must be at least 20 cm.

Construction of a cesspool

Upon completion of the excavation work, a drain pipe must be laid in the trench and the walls and roof of the cesspool must be finished. The complex of works will depend on what material is used. The simplest solution is to use a large plastic or metal drum. You can find an unnecessary container at home, or you can buy a special tank at a hardware store, from which a cesspool is made for a bath.

Slate

Sewerage for a bath can be made using wave slate, which remained after dismantling the old roof. This method is great for areas with sandy soil. The work process is simple. First, the first sheet should be laid on the bottom of the pit, then each subsequent sheet should be laid so that its edges are in contact with the edges of the previous sheet.

You can fill the space and make additional drainage if you fill the container with broken slate.

From tires

Car tires can also be used to equip a cesspool for a bath. Due to the fact that solid waste will not enter this sewer tank, the design can be extremely simple. Used car tires will probably be in the garage.

The construction process will consist of the following stages:

using a grinder, you need to cut off the sides of the tires;
carefully put the tires in the pit on top of each other;
fill the bottom of the cesspool with rubble;
make a hole for the drain pipe;
put a sheet of metal on top and lightly sprinkle it with soil.

prokommunikacii.ru

Requirements

Sanitary standards for the placement of a cesspool drainage pit on the site

It is necessary to carefully consider the choice of the location of the cesspool, since in case of violation of sanitary standards, administrative responsibility is threatened. The pit should not be located outside the developer's land plot.

For its construction, a flat surface is chosen; with a hilly relief, the lowlands of the site are chosen. It is desirable that a sewer truck has access to the pit for pumping out in case of overflow with waste. More precise placement guidelines:

4-5 meters from a residential building.
3 meters from the fence, road, trees.
At least 25 meters from a well, a well, a spring.
30 meters from the nearest body of water.

Depending on the type of soil on which the cesspool is located, the regulated distance to sources of drinking water varies. When placed on sandy soils, it is allowed to build a cesspool no closer than 50 meters to the wells. With clayey - from 20 meters.

Sewage pit volume

To calculate the volume of the waste pit, it is necessary to take into account the number of people living in the house. The capacity is calculated based on the fact that one person consumes 170 liters of water per day. Thus, for three people, a sewage pit with a volume of 10 cubic meters.

Experience shows that if the pit is equipped with a good drainage system or is located on sandy soil, a smaller volume of 6-7 cubic meters is quite enough. If the pit is dug out with your own hands, it is better to think over the spare volume in advance so that excess drains do not go beyond the drainage pit, and pumping is not needed.

Excavation

It is best to start excavation work in the middle of summer when the weather is stable and dry. A pit is being prepared for the future drainage pit. Most often, it measures 2 meters high, wide and long (8 cubic meters). You can dig it up with your own hands or with the help of an excavator.

First, the top layer of fertile soil is removed, it is better to distribute it over the garden. Subsequently, the soil is removed. If the soil around the pit is sandy, one should beware of the pit walls collapsing. To avoid this, you can prepare wooden shields and temporarily place them with an emphasis along the walls of the pit.

After the required depth has been reached, it is recommended to leave the pit for two days. The bottom of the cesspool should be at least one meter higher than the autumn / spring groundwater level. The permissible depth of this type of hole is from 1 to 3 meters.

Drainage

In order for the wastewater to quickly leave the pit into the soil and not require pumping out, you need to prepare high-quality drainage. First, sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit. The thickness of such a layer should be 30 cm. After that, the bottom of the pit is lined with a special synthetic fabric (geotextile), the edges of the fabric should overlap the walls of the pit.

Areas adjacent to each other are sewn together. A layer of rubble 10 - 20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric. The rubble is covered with a second layer of synthetic fabric. The edges of the first and second layers are sewn together or covered with bitumen. In this form, the drainage layer remains until the pit is used.

If the cesspool is created with your own hands for a country toilet (without pumping out), drainage can be simplified. A layer of sand (30 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the pit, on top of it is a layer of rubble (20 cm).

Sewer pipe connection

When installing a sewer pipe, you should pay attention to the height difference between the level of the end of the pipe in the pit and the level of the pipe in the house. It shouldn't be less than a meter. With a small height difference, the drains will stagnate in the pipe, and blockages are possible.

It is best if the pipe extends outside the house underground. The depth of the pipe must be deeper than the layer of winter freezing of the soil, so that during frosts the drains do not freeze, clogging the pipe. If the pipe comes to the surface, it should be properly insulated.

back to menu

Walls

Exists various options the walls of the cesspool. They are lined with bricks, logs, concrete rings and slate. The choice of wall material depends on the personal desire of the builder.

Brick walls

Most often, the walls of the cesspool are lined with bricks. This material has a number of advantages: easy accessibility, ease of masonry, strength. It should be noted that not all bricks are equally well suited for arranging a cesspool. Silicate brick has a low moisture resistance, therefore, in no case can it be used for this purpose. What can not be said about ceramic bricks, its varieties are completely suitable.

Masonry can be done by hand, with ordinary mortar, but the bricklayer must leave small gaps between the sides of the bricks and not fill them with cement. This is to filter the effluent and let it pass into the soil surrounding the pit. Outside the masonry, leave 30 cm of space and fill it with broken brick, gravel and sand to improve the filtration of runoff water.

Log walls / plank walls

In suburban areas, the walls of cesspools for a street toilet (without pumping out) or others are most often lined with shields made of boards, bars, or a small log frame is made. This material is less durable, but much cheaper than other analogues. You can cope with the design yourself.

If it is decided to cover the pit with boards, 4 large blocks are first prepared. It is better to choose the size 10X10. They are covered with a special solution - protection from bark beetles and rot (if the larch bars, protective equipment is not needed, this tree does not rot for decades). Slightly sharpen one end of each bar, this is necessary when attaching the bar to the ground of the pit day. The bars must correspond to the depth and have a margin of length to deepen them into the bottom of the pit.

After the bars are placed in the corners of the pit and secured, you can start mounting the boards. The strongest and thickest boards (if different sizes are used) are placed closer to the bottom of the pit, later it is at the very bottom that the strongest earth pressure will be exerted on the walls. The boards covered with a special protective solution are nailed in such a way that the bars are inside the wooden box.

It is recommended to maintain a distance of 1-2 cm between the boards to allow runoff water to enter the soil. It is much more convenient to put together a wooden box outside the pit, and then lower it. But this will require the help of a crane or a large number of people, because the weight of the structure will exceed 400 kg.

IMPORTANT! A log cabin is constructed in a similar way. It should only be noted that the thickness of the logs will significantly reduce the volume of the drain pit. To avoid this, it is necessary to revise the volume of the pit.

Concrete ring walls

For long-term use of a drain pit, it is best to construct it from concrete rings. Concrete is the most stable and unpretentious material.

It will not work to create a structure from concrete rings with your own hands; you need to take care of their purchase in advance. And also you need to calculate in advance in which ring and where the hole for the pipe will be, it is drilled before immersion. When there are rings, the question arises: how to lower them into the hole (It should be remembered that the hole should not be completely dug out at the time the first ring is lowered). There is a wide range of possibilities here, from the use of a crane (the weight of one ring reaches 600 kg) and winches, to self-dipping of the rings. A more economical option would be to deal with this problem yourself.

First, a pit is dug with a height equal to the height of one concrete ring. One of its edges is made partially sloping (beveled) for easy descent of the structure. The ring is rolled up to the beveled edge so that the axis of the ring is directed towards the center of the pit.

With the help of a lever made of a bar (a length of 3 m is recommended), the ring is turned over, dragged to the shallow edge and gently slides down in an upright position. For the convenience of descent, boards can be laid out on a gentle edge. After the first ring has taken its position, the builder goes down and begins deepening the hole from the inside of the ring.

Gradually, as the depth of the pit increases, the ring will settle smoothly. Then the same operation is done with the next ring. It is very important to monitor the strictly horizontal level of the structure when deepening the pit. After lowering all the rings, holes are drilled in their walls (5 cm is recommended) every 30 cm in the vertical direction, they are intended for drainage of runoff water.

Wall construction from slate sheets

A simple and original way is to lay out the walls of the drain pit with slate sheets. This material is not afraid of moisture, but it is fragile enough that you need to consider when choosing. The design will not be complicated, you can handle it yourself. They make a blank of four iron corners (a longitudinally bent metal strip), holes are drilled into them for future fastening.

Four sheets of slate (it is better to choose a special flat rather than wavy for roofs, wavy less durable) is lowered into the pit. Next, the assembly is carried out: corners are screwed to the slate leaves with self-tapping screws (to two leaves on the opposite side), all the slate leaves are screwed together and the frame is ready. Holes are drilled to release runoff water.

This information will be useful not only for the improvement of a summer cottage, but also help to design a cesspool for a private house with your own hands. Such a pit will not require pumping out, which will significantly save the cost of its construction.

Slate cesspool construction technology

What is this design? This is one tank that has no bottom. Instead, there is a drainage layer through which water will be transported into the soil. A drain pipe is supplied to the pit.

If you are making a slate cesspool for a toilet, then you should follow the following construction technology:

First you need to dig a hole. It should be rectangular, square.
In order to develop the soil, you will need a shovel, buckets and a cart.

You choose the depth of the pit yourself, here it is important to take into account the number of people regularly living in the house, as well as the amount of daily drains consumed.

After that, put a 30 cm layer of sand and gravel in the pit on the bottom and tamp it down, this will be a drainage layer.
After you prepare the pit, you need to make a metal frame. To do this, weld a frame pit made of steel corners, which will fit on the bottom of the tank. There should be two such frames. The first frame is laid on the bottom of the slate drain pit. The pipes in the corners must also be welded to the lower frame. The same process needs to be done for the second frame. This will give you a rectangular frame.
Next, you need to equip the walls of the pit. You will need many pieces of flat slate that you need to cut yourself. Then they go down into the tank, you need to sew up all sides of the previously prepared frame. In order to fix the slate, use self-tapping screws.
After all the preliminary work has been completed, you need to use soil to fill the space between the slate and the walls of the slate cesspool for the toilet in the country.
Then tamp the soil and make a cover. Further, you can already install the toilet itself in the country with a cesspool.

vivoz-gbo.ru

Types of cesspools

A cesspool in a private house can have a different scheme and design, be created from different materials. There are several types of pits:

bottomless structures;
septic tanks;
sealed storage systems.

Schematic location of the cesspool and its system

Advantages of different types of structures

The bottomless design is small. Its main advantages include:

no need for constant cleaning;
has small parameters.

However, waste will enter the soil and pollute it. A pit without a bottom is suitable for arranging a summer cottage, where sewers are not often used. With a daily water consumption of up to 1m3, the soil will clean itself on its own.

The main points in the organization of the sewer system

When designing a cesspool, the main details should be considered:

the container can be without a bottom or sealed with regular cleaning with a vacuum cleaner;
the sewer container should be located at a safe distance from groundwater and buildings (outbuildings - from 3 m, residential buildings - from 5 m);
it is necessary to provide easy access for cleaning the container;
the parameters of the sewerage capacity depend on the number of people living in the house (on average, about 0.5 m3 of water is diverted per person).

To prevent feces from entering the aquifer, the distance between the lower level of the sewer hole in the soil and the water source should not be less than 1 m.

the location of the sewer hole

Based on the type of soil, the distance from the well or well to the drainage pit can be 20-50 m.

Materials for the manufacture of budget sewerage

Other options for cesspools

The device of a cesspool in a private house can be made of concrete rings, plastic or metal containers.

construction of a cesspool made of concrete rings

At the preparatory stage during the construction of the sewage system, the organization of the drain tank and the options for its installation are selected.

1. Construction of a sewage system from concrete rings

construction of a brick cesspool

Around the constructed structure, soil with sand and gravel is laid, after which they are compacted.

2. Construction of a sewerage system from a plastic or metal container

Often, homeowners choose capacious tanks as a cesspool. An iron barrel can become a homemade feces chamber. But the metal is not able to provide reliable and non-stop operation of the sewage system due to the instability of corrosion, rapid failure. After a while, the overhaul of the cesspool may be required.

the location of the cesspool on the site

The best solution for a cesspool would be a plastic container, the walls of which are protected from the action of organic waste entering the interior. When digging a pit, the parameters of the plastic tank are taken into account. The bottom of the pit is reinforced with a sand and gravel pad or concrete mortar. 24 hours after the preparatory work, you can install a container, on the side of which, in the area of \u200b\u200bsoil freezing, an opening is made for the supply of the drain pipeline. All joints are treated with a sealant.

Due to the lack of drainage in such a sewer structure, it must be periodically cleaned with a sewer.

Installation of pipes

The autonomous sewage system of a private house includes a treatment plant, as well as a sewer pipeline. Correct pipe-laying is essential to ensure proper system operation.

Pipes should be laid according to the following rules:

you need to start their installation from the storage tank in the direction of the details of the internal sewage system of the house;
the pipeline must be insulated to protect it from freezing in cold weather. To do this, you can use the "sandwich" technology, wrapping the pipe with insulation made of specialized foamed polyethylene, on which an asbestos-cement pipeline is then put on;
pipes can be connected by couplings or by welding;
the number of turns should be minimized and pipe bends should be removed so that there are no blockages;
for the gravity flow of drains, an optimal slope must be created;
if it is necessary to design a turn of pipes, a rotary sewer well is installed in this area from concrete rings.

Creation of a drainage system

With a properly calculated and created drainage system, the house is protected from water, there is no flooding of roads and vegetation.

cesspool drainage and drainage system

abvseptik.ru

Practical fences

Until recently, slate was the most common roofing material with many performance benefits. Today, its popularity has dropped a little, more modern materials have appeared on the market: bituminous tiles and metal tiles. It's a pity to throw away the old coating, which is why many have warehouses of old slate sheets in their dachas. It's a pity to throw it away, and you don't need to do this.

A standard slate sheet has a length of 175 cm, the sheet is cut in half and simply, with an overlap on the chain-link, is dug into the ground with the lower edge, to a depth of 40 cm.If the soil is then thoroughly tamped, no additional fasteners are needed to stabilize the fence. If desired, slate can be easily painted by choosing the right color, it is easy to easily integrate it into the style of your site.

Note! Such a partition is able to protect the personal plot from the spread of weeds, which are trying to gain a foothold with their roots behind the edge of the neighboring plot.

Cellar shelves

In the corners of the pantry, racks are laid out of bricks, the length of which should coincide with the width of the slate sheet. The height of the racks is 90 cm.
A sheet of slate is laid on the racks.
Formwork is being built around it.
Reinforcement pipes are laid in the slate ribs.
The solution is mixed, as for a cement screed.
A slate sheet is poured with it, the solution layer should be 10 cm.
The result should be monolithic concrete - a fairly strong roomy shelf on which any container for storing vegetables and fruits can easily be placed.

Slate beds

Such a partition is a reliable barrier for rodents and the spread of weeds. The process of laying slate itself consists of several stages:

First, the slate must be cut. This can be done along the plates or across the waves, as shown in the photo.
Then the boundaries of the beds are outlined.
Trenches are dug along the entire perimeter. Their depth should be half of the prepared protective product.
Slate blanks are placed in the prepared trenches.
It remains to dig trenches and compact the soil around the installed sheet metal parts.
In order to give the walls of the bed more stability, metal pegs are buried in the ground.

Note! The installation of the described fence has certain nuances. If the waves in the beds are horizontal, shoots and their roots can easily grow along the grooves.

Any digging of the earth in this case will lead to the death of the plant. Vertically positioned waves will not become an obstacle for weeding the beds.

Pros of using slate fencing

Slate is a material that heats up quickly in the sun, heats up and easily gives off excess heat to the soil. This has a beneficial effect on the growth of any plant.
The fence assembled with asbestos-cement sheets for the garden bed is difficult to destroy.
In the future, it is not necessary to carry out any other work with such a fence. Set and forgot with them for a long time.
Using old slate sheets, there is no need to spend on purchasing wooden beams.
If desired, the sheets can be easily painted in any color; painting increases the decorative properties of the fence.

Toilet foundation and cesspool

Old slate sheets are often used for arranging formwork for pouring the foundation for outbuildings. In this case, it is not necessary to remove the formwork after the concrete has set.

Since there is often no central sewerage on the personal plot, the toilet and utilities serving the kitchen and bathroom cannot function without a cesspool. Slate in this case is used to strengthen its walls. The sheets are cut to the size of the pit walls, just go down. To prevent the sheets from falling, they are fastened together with the corners of the reinforcement. Further, reinforcement rods are laid in the slots between the pit and the slate sheets. The slots are filled with cement mortar. In order for the walls of the cesspool to withstand the pressure, they are bursting with wooden bars, as shown in the photo.

After the concrete is dry, the toilet sump is ready.

Disputes about the dangers of slate

There are several varieties of such material, two are used in the production of slate:

amphibole-asbestos (natural base);
chrysotile asbestos (a derivative of the serpentine group).

How to make a chest with your own hands

How to make a box with your own hands

How to choose a tent for a summer residence

Grill from a gas cylinder with your own hands

montazhnik02.ru

Drain pipe gasket

According to the rules, the laying of the drain pipe must be carried out during the construction of the foundation... It must be located at the bottom of the foundation so that the slope goes to the drain pit.

With sufficiently strong soil on the site, it is possible to arrange a pit for draining wastewater in this way: a pit is dug, after which a drainage layer of gravel or crushed stone is built at the bottom. But such soil is very rare, so it is imperative to strengthen the walls of the pit.

How walls are strengthened:

slate sheets;
ceramic moisture resistant brick;
well rings made of reinforced concrete;
used car tires, in which the rim is cut off on one side;
plastic or metal barrels.

Strengthening the walls of the drain pit using scrap materials

The first stage is the preparation of a pit, which can be dug with your own hands without the use of equipment, and the device of a trench for laying a pipe. The soil removed at the same time can be scattered over the site, provided that the soil is of sufficient quality, but it is better to take it outside the site.

When building a tank from silicate or ceramic bricks, walls can be laid out with a thickness of half a brick in order to save building materials. When choosing such a material for laying out walls, you should first determine whether it suits your conditions - not all soil will be suitable for silicate bricks. To drain the liquid in the brick rows, leave gaps of five centimeters. Masonry can be done by hand, both from brick and from natural stone.

If the tank is planned to be made of well concrete rings, when purchasing the product, you must choose those where there is perforation. If this did not succeed (such rings may not be on sale), the holes will have to be formed independently using a perforator.

After the process of strengthening the walls of the drain pit has been completed, it is necessary to perform a drainage layer of crushed stone, gravel at the bottom, the layer should be at least 20 cm.You can also use construction waste for this purpose, for example, broken brick, concrete fragments, and so on.

Strengthening the walls of the pit can be completed at a distance of about 40 cm from the surface. Here you need to arrange a floor, for example, lay a slab of reinforced concrete. An opening should be provided in it in order to control the filling of the pit with sewage and pump it out if necessary. This hole must be closed with a hatch.

How to arrange a pipe to drain water from a bath

For a bath, a cesspool should be dug about three meters from the base. There are some features that need to be observed when laying a drain pipe with your own hands.

At the pit itself, the edges must be protected from shedding or collapse by a formwork device, using concreting, slate sheets or reinforced concrete rings.
The bottom of the pit must be left free. Thanks to this, water will be provided free absorption into the soil. The top should be provided with a good overlap where there is a hole for the pipe.
When passing the pipe, bends and joints should not be allowed, otherwise blockages may occur during operation.
After the installation of the water supply and the drain pipe has been completed, the floor in the bath is poured with concrete. When filling, keep the slope in the direction where the drain hole is.
The drain hole should be covered with a special mesh, grate - this is done to provide additional protection of the pipe from blockages.
When the cement dries completely, it is usually ennobled with tiled tiles - on such a floor you can lay out several removable wooden bars... With their help, you can prevent possible discomfort and reduce the risk of burns that can occur from contact with hot tiles. If necessary, the gratings can be removed from the surface - this may be necessary for antiseptic treatment or drying the floor, as well as for replacing the gratings when worn.

If the floor is filled in accordance with the rules, such a floor will not require additional insulation. Both the floor and the tiles will heat up quite quickly during the firebox and will not let cold air through from the outside. You do not even need to insulate the pipe itself, if you provide for a sufficient slope when drawing it towards the drain pit.

1pokanalizacii.ru

Probably, the overwhelming majority of owners of summer cottages and suburban private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. The bathhouse is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home "dispensary", working to restore the strength and health of the owners, for the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular all the necessary communications, must be done according to all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its drainage and collection point. Dumping contaminated, untreated sewage onto the ground or into natural water bodies is strictly prohibited, and this approach will inevitably lead to penalties from the supervisory environmental authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewage system (as it most often happens), a special pit of accumulative or drainage action is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drain hole for the bath to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of construction work - adhere to the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drainage pit is a rather laborious process, since the foundation pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure is not very complex in design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it on his own, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for earthmoving.

Overflow pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and one consisting of several chambers.

To begin with, let's figure out what each of the varieties is in principle.

A sealed drain pit is most often set up on construction sites with shallow ground aquifers. It is often called cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the collected volumes of dirty water.

For its construction, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. Wastewater will be collected in it. As the tank is filled to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewer truck.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no pollution and chemical cleaning solutions at all get into the soil and groundwater, which can negatively affect the state of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you have to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and call specialized vehicles quite often, and such services are not cheap.

Septic tanks prices

A hermetically sealed bottom is not created in the drainage pit. A bulk layer of filtering building material is used as it - most often crushed stone or gravel is selected for this purpose.

In addition, holes are often made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the ground. This option is great for a bathhouse and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the features of the soil on the site allow it.

A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers for different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and serves for collection, primary filtration and cleaning of waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid components are clarified, undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle drainage well... Water passes through the drainage, is further purified and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three containers is planned, then a third chamber is made drainage. The second serves for the final sedimentation of suspensions, more deep cleaning water for the set of action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here there is an overflow of the purified liquid into the drainage well.

The septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable volume of liquid waste both from a residential building and from a bath.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

The septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often, homeowners prefer to install a pre-built factory production system. What are the rules for arranging such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Various materials can be used for the construction of drainage-type bath drain pits. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of drains, the financial capabilities of the site owners and the convenience of construction.

Drain pit from barrels

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of different sizes are used. However, such a drain can be equipped in different ways:

First option. On the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after tamping, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. In this case, it is taken into account that between the walls of the barrel and the pit, a space of at least 100 mm must remain, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

A pipe is fed into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which used water will flow from the bath into the container. These drains will gradually seep into the drainage layer through holes in the walls and through the bottom part, be cleaned, and then soak into the surrounding soil. In some cases, not only the free space of the pit is filled with drainage material, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow directly into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be understood correctly that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bath, which is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the most optimal options.

Second option. In this method of arranging the pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one above the other by about 200 mm. They are interconnected at the top with an overflow pipe. The water from the bath enters the first upper container, soap sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water is poured into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

Branch pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches with gravel or crushed stone filling, through which water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. Trenches from above are covered with a layer of fertile soil, about 500 mm and can be planted with ornamental shrubs, which will constantly receive watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - drainage of water from the bath and irrigation of plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain pit

The arrangement of the walls of the drainage pit can be done with the help of a brick, which is laid out with gaps - through them, water is diverted into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in material, and the principle of operation remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, leading to the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and is designed for a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and make the bottom and lower part of the walls airtight, then this structure may well be used to drain other waste, but in this case, the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

For arranging such an option for a drainage pit, it is not at all necessary to use a new brick - a used material is also quite suitable.

Metal barrels prices

metal barrels

Overflow drainage pit made of concrete rings

If there are financial and technical possibilities, then a drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in a prepared pit. After installing the rings, a drainage backfill is arranged at the bottom of such a well.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in previous cases, is also filled with drainage material, so the pit, provided it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deepened enough, and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bath, but also for a general one. True, this will require additional calculations, an assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit from old car tires

A drainage pit, made of unnecessary car tires, can only be used for liquid waste, so it is impossible better fit to collect periodically incoming water from the bath.

The tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut in their side walls, in others, a small gap between the slopes is provided, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from the bath can be called the most popular, since it is easy to set up, affordable (tires are easy to find for nothing) and practical to use.

On the diagram, the numbers indicate:

1 - Crushed stone or coarse gravel - drainage backfill, with a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - Old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - Beams for laying the lid.

5 - Cover or hatch.

Around the laid out stack of wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is filled, which makes it possible to retain and purify the water coming from the bath. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bath, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand the effects of high humidity are also suitable for the construction of a drainage pit.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Survey of the soil at the site of the planned drainage pit

In order for the drainage system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site at the approximate depth of the planned pit. For this, a trench or test pit is dug. So that the bath can be used in winter time, the depth should be below the level of soil freezing. Information about soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring sites who have long been using systems of such a drainage system.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sandy soils, sandy loams, including those with stony inclusions, have good drainage capabilities.

However, dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof, when dry they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable for both laying and laying pipes through trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

To build a drainage pit in such soil, if it spreads to great depths, is almost pointless. Well, if it is necessary to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches a depth of soil with a high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, which will prevent the harsh effect of soil vibrations on the elements of the drainage system.

The level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drainage pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of a stable aquifer there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will not go well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, since it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clayey soils, the drainage pit option will not work. You will either have to install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize the drainage of water to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for the construction of the pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important points of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system, the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants depend.

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

Quite often, the owners have a drainage pit directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

- the structure rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;

- good ventilation should be provided under the sauna building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the drain of the bath and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

If the pit is located separately, away from the bath, then it is necessary to provide that it is at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing around it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bath building is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

If the drain pit has to be located close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, diverting water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires, must be done on the side that will be farther from the walls of the bath;

It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that the dirty water does not stagnate inside the canal, but immediately goes into the drainage pit, there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit far enough from the bath. The amount of the required slope depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is clearly indicated by the diagram below:

It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from small bath without a toilet, usually a 50 mm pipe is sufficient. In order to maintain the required slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when pouring a sand "cushion" into it, control the difference in its depth using a building level.

Arrangement of a drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, we will consider two options for drain pits, which can be easily equipped on your own.

Common drainage pit

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made of various materials, which were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location for the location of the drain pit, you can proceed to digging the pit. For a sauna drainage well, a pit depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square shape in cross-section - it will depend on the chosen material for the arrangement of the walls. For example, if the pit will be made out of a brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape from it, but in some cases a round well also stands out from it. The pit diameter should be 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the structure of the bath at the desired angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bath is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is filled with a stone of the middle fraction - this is gravel, crushed stone, chipped brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer should be at least 300 mm, since it is designed to retain dirty water and purify it, that is, moisture should flow to the ground by capillary, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act in different ways. You can lay a sewer pipe right away, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or you first install or build a container, and during its construction, a drain pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with the work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of bricks. The masonry is made in compliance with the gap between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and to a greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the soil walls and the brick ones is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be attracted to install them, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions should not be allowed during installation. After installing them, the distance between the soil and the concrete must also be filled with drainage backfill. Here it should be noted that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then one should not rush to install a sewer pipe in the hole of their wall, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - sometimes by 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended to leave the finished concrete well alone for a while to shrink, otherwise, the plastic pipe may crack or break from the pressure and stress generated.
	When using metal barrels for the pit, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and the side walls can simply be cut with the help of a "grinder". The cuts are made at a distance of 200 ÷ 250 mm from each other horizontally and with a step of 100 ÷ 120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are stacked one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After that, in the second of them, in the upper one, a hole is marked and cut out through which a drainage pipe will be installed in the barrel. The hole on the markings can be cut with a grinder, but the opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be more accurate. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points of the marked circle, into which the file of the tool should freely enter.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drain pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom can also be cut off, or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm are cut in it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, crushed stone or gravel is backfilled, into which, as in previous cases, water will flow from the barrel holes, cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most frequently used material for arranging the drainage well of a bath is automobile tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, at the edges of the tires, in three to four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled through which they are fastened together by means of, for example, plastic clamps-puffs. The sewer pipe can be run between two tires. In this case, for an emphasis, along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three to four places between the tires in the place of its passage, bricks are installed that will remove the load from the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for penetrating the pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. Choosing this method, it is necessary to provide for the possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole 70 ÷ 80 mm larger than the pipe diameter.
	Quite often, the drainage pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with two-thirds of it - this allows water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly soak into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by arranging a concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. For this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured with concrete mortar, with a layer of 70 ÷ 80 mm thick.
	After the concrete hardens, a homemade cover is installed on the hole, made of steel sheet and a corner. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the upper cover of the drain pit is already equipped according to its size.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast-iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built from tires or barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with rubble. If the drainage was backfilled between the walls of the well and the ground, then its upper layer, 120 ÷ 150 mm in height, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state, simply by installing a hatch on the hole, or you can equip a concrete platform over the structure, followed by its soil filling.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with outlet to the filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is much higher. This system is perfect for arranging in an area with a groundwater table close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing a drainage drainage of water from the foundation, from a storm well filled from linear storm inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For this system, two plastic drums are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to the sewer pipes of the same material. Usually, for the drain pit of a small bath, two or three containers with a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters are sufficient.
	The pit for the installation of barrels is also dug more than their diameter by 100 ÷ 150 mm, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them must have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be more than the height of the barrel by 450 ÷ 500 mm. This distance will be needed to arrange a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the level of installation of containers should be 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is tamped and filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction, with a layer 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of the containers. The barrel installed above will serve as a primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover, into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for a branch pipe that will connect the first barrel with the second, installed slightly lower. For tapping plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges in a plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not spare high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one branch will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top cover, and two in the side wall, below the top edge by 100 ÷ 120 mm. The axes of these side windows should be radially rotated 45 degrees from the axis of the center hole.
	Nozzles with 45-degree taps installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drain pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the second barrel to be installed, on the opposite side from the entrance, small holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled at a distance of 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water to the drainage filling around the barrel. However, if powerful filtering fields will surely cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not required.
	The result should be such a construction as shown in the illustration. Having assembled a system of barrels and nozzles, you can proceed to creating a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage platform, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth to which the first higher barrel is buried. If desired, the drainage filtering field can be stretched over the entire area, since it will not interfere with arranging beds for annual crops above it or for planting shrubs. A geotextile fabric is laid at the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Filling the trench with rubble is done in layers, each of which should be carefully tamped and distributed under a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. The pegs installed in advance with the necessary height difference will become a kind of beacons for the correct filling of the drainage layer.
	As the drainage material is poured around the bottom barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external soil pressure may deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by spilling water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are attached to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed along the drainage area. The holes are drilled with a step of 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b180 mm on the bottom and sides of the pipes. After drilling, the pipes are put into a geotextile filter “casing” so that the inside of the pipes does not become silted up.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction, mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. On top of the rubble, it is best to backfill with several different layers of soil. So, crushed stone is first covered with geotextiles, on which a layer of moistened sand 70 ÷ 80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site, it is quite possible to equip a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary junk, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find use for old sheets of wave or smooth slate, or even scraps of corrugated board remaining after roofing work.

Some inventive owners of country houses lay out the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles that are filled with sand, they find others very interesting solutions... Therefore, if there is a desire to save money, and at the same time to free part of the yard or barn premises from old materials, then you need to turn on your imagination "to the fullest" - and act! We will be glad if some creative master will share his innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a device for a simple drain for a bath is shown in the video clip below.

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

Surely many of you are interested in the construction of a cesspool for a country toilet. For me, this task is not new, therefore, taking this opportunity, I want to tell you how to make a pit for a toilet in the country.

Pros and cons of using pits

The building that I want to talk about belongs to the category of local treatment facilities that are used to accumulate or process sewage from a private house.

A cesspool for a country toilet is a fairly simple design, but it has both advantages and disadvantages. I will sound for you both the first and the second.

pros	Minuses
Sustainability... Sealed cesspools accumulate organic waste, which is then pumped out with the help of sewage equipment and disposed of at city sewage treatment plants.	The appearance of an unpleasant odor.If you do not take care of the removal of biological gases, the cesspool can give off an unpleasant smell and spoil your comfortable stay outside the city.
Ease of installation and operation.The pit is erected very quickly and easily, and it is even easier to use it: you just need to call specialists in a timely manner to pump out the sewage.	The need to call technology.For waste disposal, you must call special equipment. Although, I once told you how you can clean the pit yourself.
Possibility of installation in any area. Even if the groundwater level is high (as it was in my case).

Be that as it may, my neighbor asked me to build a cesspool. But he didn’t say what. Therefore, I had to choose the design myself. But more on that below.

Varieties of designs

I have constructed pits from everything imaginable. But most often there were such options:

The pit has no cladding at all. It is hardly used in construction, as it can contaminate groundwater and soil. In addition, the soil from the walls crumbles during operation, therefore the useful volume of the structure is constantly decreasing.
Tire pit.Car tires (old) are used as wall material. This design, I know from experience, has served for about 30 years. There are two disadvantages: a small volume of capacity (if you do not use tires from a mining truck) and its leakage.

Slate pit.I built this one somehow. The design is very simple, leaky and ineffective. Suitable as a temporary measure until you build something decent.
A pit made of bricks. The structure is solid, but short-lived. With poor waterproofing, water from the drains will penetrate into the thickness of the brick walls, which will quickly lead to their destruction.
A pit from ready-made containers.It's not really a pit, but rather a sealed large barrel that is buried in the ground. Sold in building supermarkets. An excellent option, if you are not afraid of the high price.
A pit made of concrete rings. Robust and durable design option. I often built such pits, but here you cannot do without the help of a crane. Do not lower the ring into the prepared pit yourself.
Monolithic concrete pit. This option appeals to me the most. Such a structure can be made independently and I will talk about it below.

Pit construction

So, let's consider how a pit for a toilet is made in the country with our own hands from monolithic concrete. The instructions below are divided into several steps for convenience.

Determination of tank volume and installation location

First, I need the depth and width of the toilet pit in the country. That is, in another way, the volume or amount of impurities that will need to be stored in it.

If you are faced with the task of building a local sewerage system for a private house, then it is better to build a septic tank that not only accumulates, but also cleans the drains. It needs to be cleaned of waste much less often using a sewage machine.

a person consumes on average about half a cubic meter of water;
five people are supposed to stay at the dacha (grandmother, grandfather, a young man with his wife and their child);
the house has a heater with a capacity of 150 liters;
then one person needs 150 liters of water per day, for all 750 liters;
determine the final volume on the basis of how often you want to call a flusher;
i stopped at once a month, that is, the pit will have a volume of 20 cubic meters;
respectively, the dimensions are 2 by 5 by 3 meters.

At the same time, I will immediately say that I did not deepen it much downward, since groundwater passes through there. Therefore, I made it wide and long, but not very deep.

it should be 25 meters away from a well or well;
from a residential building - 5 meters;
from the public road - 5 meters;
from a natural reservoir - 30 meters;
from trees and bushes - 3 meters;
from the fence of your site - 3 meters.

So take a plan and decide where to put it. But do not be wise, otherwise it will be difficult to make an external sewer later.

Preparatory work

And now I'm starting to build a pit. For this I need the following materials:

portland cement grade M400 - at least 7 bags;
crushed stone, which will play the role of a filler in concrete;
sand as part of the solution;
a waterproofing agent - in my case, a bituminous coating.

Also, you can't do without tools:

two bayonet shovels with handles of different lengths;
shovel for collecting soil;
measuring tool;
stairs;
laser level (you can take a water level);
rope and trowel;
spatula and brush.

Moreover, after pouring the floor, I plan to sketch on top of the ground and plant the grass. Therefore, my three-meter (deep) pit requires a pit at least 4 meters deep.

I got this thing:

And then he started designing the formwork.

Formwork erection

For the manufacture of enclosing structures, into which concrete will be poured, I used:

OSB boards - they can be wrapped with plastic wrap to make it easier to dismantle and organize the correct dehydration of the monolith;
wooden blocks - with their help I made stiffeners;
self-tapping screws - you can take any, not necessarily galvanized.

Immediately I draw your attention to the fact that I will have both internal and external formwork. But many have only an inner one. So refract the proposed instruction to fit your conditions.

So, the instructions for installing the formwork are as follows:

I installed OSB sheets and secured them together with wooden bars. It is better if you have enough sheet length to make the formwork for the entire height of the walls. If this is not the case, you will have to work in several stages.

I reinforced the formwork with a plastic film that protects it from getting wet. You can, by the way, replace it with rolls of roofing material. And if you use steel sheets instead of OSB boards or plywood, it is not at all necessary to lay waterproofing.

Concreted the bottom of the septic tank.There is no need to equip a perfectly flat surface (as, for example, in a house). The main thing is that there are no voids inside the concrete slab.
Therefore, I mixed a concrete solution of cement, sand and crushed stone, after which I poured it into the formwork and poked it many times with a crowbar to compact the surface. Not visible in the photo below, but along the edge of the formwork, I put reinforcement bars in order to then tie the floor surface and the monolithic concrete walls together.

Installed internal formwork.To do this, I took off the dimensions in advance, after which I made something like a box made of OSB slabs, which I installed in the future cesspool and fixed in place so that it would be at the same distance from the external enclosing structure.
So it is not entirely clear from the text, but from the illustration you will immediately understand what's what.

I made a hole and inserted a pipe through which the sewage from the toilet will drain into the pit.If this is not done in advance, then you will have to drill concrete, seal the hole, and so on and so forth.
In the photo, the installed branch pipe is marked with a blue oval.

In the meantime, I will move on to the most important thing - concreting.

Wall construction

This stage will be the longest in time, since after pouring the concrete it is necessary for it to completely freeze, which takes several weeks (the exact time depends on the weather conditions).

I mixed everything with an electric concrete mixer.

Then I left this whole structure alone until the solution was completely solidified. It took 15 days. Then he dismantled the formwork. It turned out like this.

Waterproofing

Here I immediately want to apologize to the readers. I waterproofed the walls of the cesspool for the country toilet using bitumen mastic. This event is rather "dirty", so I could not take up the phone and photograph the process.

Well, the process itself took place in this way:

First, I went down into a concrete pit and thoroughly cleaned all surfaces of dirt. If you have any cracks or other defects after drying, they need to be eliminated. Everything was fine with me.

Then he heated up the bitumen with a gas burner until its consistency began to resemble liquid sour cream.

After that, a liter of diesel fuel was added to the bitumen bucket. Gasoline can also be used, but be sure to remove the bucket from the fire to prevent a fire.
I treated the walls of the cesspool with the first layer. For this I used a wide and thick paint brush. After that, I waited until it dries.
I smeared the walls with bitumen again.

If you don't want to mess around with heating the bitumen, buy water-soluble emulsions or special compounds for waterproofing concrete. But know that they dry much longer.

Floor installation

I designed a ready-made formwork, with which I will make an inspection hatch above the cesspool.

After that, I made a horizontal formwork from the OSB slab (it will not be removed), which will help me build a concrete floor.

Then I laid out the reinforcement on the installed horizontal formwork so that I got a reinforcing frame. To do this, I used rods 8 cm thick, which I tied together with wire.
In this case, the reinforcement is needed so that the ceiling can withstand a heavy load. After all, as I said, I'm going to pour earth on top.
The photos have not survived, so I will show an illustration from another object, where the ceiling was constructed from rolled metal and slate sheets.

After that, I filled everything with concrete, installing the inside of the box for the inspection hatch and inserting a piece of the ventilation pipe. In the end, it turned out like this.

Then, after the concrete, which was poured into the upper floor, had completely dried out, I installed the outer part of the formwork around the box and filled the hatch with concrete. More or less like this.

On this we can say that the work on the construction of a cesspool on my neighbor's site has been completed.

obustroeno.com

Practical fences

Note! Such a partition is able to protect the personal plot from the spread of weeds, which are trying to gain a foothold with their roots behind the edge of the neighboring plot.

Cellar shelves

In the corners of the pantry, racks are laid out of bricks, the length of which should coincide with the width of the slate sheet. The height of the racks is 90 cm.
A sheet of slate is laid on the racks.
Formwork is being built around it.
Reinforcement pipes are laid in the slate ribs.
The solution is mixed, as for a cement screed.
A slate sheet is poured with it, the solution layer should be 10 cm.
The result should be monolithic concrete - a fairly strong roomy shelf on which any container for storing vegetables and fruits can easily be placed.

Slate beds

Such a partition is a reliable barrier for rodents and the spread of weeds. The process of laying slate itself consists of several stages:

First, the slate must be cut. This can be done along the plates or across the waves, as shown in the photo.
Then the boundaries of the beds are outlined.
Trenches are dug along the entire perimeter. Their depth should be half of the prepared protective product.
Slate blanks are placed in the prepared trenches.
It remains to dig trenches and compact the soil around the installed sheet metal parts.
In order to give the walls of the bed more stability, metal pegs are buried in the ground.

Note! The installation of the described fence has certain nuances. If the waves in the beds are horizontal, shoots and their roots can easily grow along the grooves.

Any digging of the earth in this case will lead to the death of the plant. Vertically positioned waves will not become an obstacle for weeding the beds.

Pros of using slate fencing

Slate is a material that heats up quickly in the sun, heats up and easily gives off excess heat to the soil. This has a beneficial effect on the growth of any plant.
The fence assembled with asbestos-cement sheets for the garden bed is difficult to destroy.
In the future, it is not necessary to carry out any other work with such a fence. Set and forgot with them for a long time.
Using old slate sheets, there is no need to spend on purchasing wooden beams.
If desired, the sheets can be easily painted in any color; painting increases the decorative properties of the fence.

Toilet foundation and cesspool

Old slate sheets are often used for arranging formwork for pouring the foundation for outbuildings. In this case, it is not necessary to remove the formwork after the concrete has set.

After the concrete is dry, the toilet sump is ready.

Disputes about the dangers of slate

There are several varieties of such material, two are used in the production of slate:

amphibole-asbestos (natural base);
chrysotile asbestos (a derivative of the serpentine group).

How to make a chest with your own hands

How to make a box with your own hands

How to choose a tent for a summer residence

Grill from a gas cylinder with your own hands

montazhnik02.ru

Advantages and disadvantages. We think, compare

Drain pits are most often done:

From concrete rings;
From old tires;
Slate on a metal frame;
Made of bricks.

Why can a person choose a brick?

Ease of installation. Even a beginner in the construction business can lay out brickwork. In the case of concrete rings, you will need a special. technique to deliver the rings to the site and lower them into the pit.

For a slate pit, a metal frame must be welded. If you are a welder, then this is not a problem, and if not, you have to hire someone.

Pit diameter for brickwork can be "back to back", for concrete rings and slate, the pit must be made with a margin. This is an important factor if you plan to dig by hand.

The size of a brick pit can be arbitrary, unlike a pit made of tires, where everything depends on the diameter of the selected wheels.

The main disadvantage of a brick cesspool is its relative fragility.
The service life is about 15 years (concrete and rubber win in this regard, and the slate pit will last about the same).

Preparation for construction

Away from all buildings;
Downstream groundwater;
Where a vacuum truck can drive up.

Pit shape

If, due to some circumstances, you need to make a square pit, then at least make its walls slightly convex outward. The arched effect will give them strength.

Overall dimensions

Everything is individual here. Of course, the larger the pit, the less often you have to pump it out. But the depth is limited by the water table. As a rule, you need to stop when there is about 30 cm to the water.

If it turns out too shallow, you should think about expanding the pit in length, or make a series of interconnected pits (see "Drainage pit") You should not dig deeper than three meters, even if the soil is dry.

For a house in which 4-5 people live, a pit 3 m deep and 3 m in diameter is suitable.

Brick selection

Cinder blocks and silicate brick definitely not suitable for construction. They will get wet quickly. You need to take a ceramic (red) brick.

Ideally, if the brick is burnt. It has a glossy finish and a brownish tint than regular ceramic. Such a brick will significantly increase the service life of the pit. Usually it is rejected because it is of an irregular shape, it is difficult to process, but for our case, that is what we need.

Creature. Step-by-step instruction

Digging a hole

This is the most time consuming of all processes. To minimize costs, many decide to dig the well on their own. This is normal, especially if the pit is not supposed to be very large.

In sandy soil, two people can make a 1.5 m by 3 m pit in a day. In wet clay soil, everything is much more problematic! Health is more expensive, and there is a choice - to hire people, or an excavator.

Many people think that the person-unit will cost them less. However, before drawing conclusions, pay attention to the approximate calculations below.

Man or machine?

Suppose we need a 3m pit. diameter and 3m. depth.

Area of \u200b\u200ba circle S \u003d Pi * R 2. Those. 7 m 2.

7 * 3m. \u003d 21 m 3. The volume of the pit is 21 cubic meters.

A person costs 400-600 rubles. per m 3. It turns out that digging such a hole will cost you 8500-12500 rubles. (they can take more, because one-time work + meals)

The excavator can be paid for cubic meters, or maybe for an hour of work.

The average price for 1m 3 is 180 rubles.

180 * 21 \u003d 3780 rubles.

If the payment is hourly, they may include the delivery time of the excavator to the site (for this reason, look for equipment nearby). But, for comparison, an excavator digs a large pond during a working day. And it takes about 10,000 rubles. And it will cope with our well of 21 m 3 much faster and cheaper!

To make the pit walls even, the excavator must be able to dig it from both sides.

What to do with the soil

Think about where you will put the 21 m 3 of earth extracted from the hole in advance.

If you decide to hire an excavator, then there are options:

Immediately load it onto a dump truck and take it out,
Dump in heaps next to the sewer and take out later;
Smooth over the territory.

The excavator will perform any of three tasks.

Remember only that part of the land must be left for the formation of a hill near the hatch.

The fertile top layer can be moved to the beds.

The form

It should resemble a glass, slightly expanding upward (under a slight slope, the walls of the well will be built, this will also make them stronger). The bottom with a slight slope in the direction where the hatch will be in the future.

Think in advance how the pipe going from the house will be located. You can immediately dig a trench for her. The depth of the trench depends on the depth of soil freezing in your area. If you are very afraid that freezing will occur, you can additionally insulate the pipe, for example, with glass wool and roofing felt, or cover it with expanded clay.
If you provide a sufficient slope of the pipe and prevent the water level in the pit from rising, then you should not be afraid that the sewage system will freeze someday.

Base

It is not worth saving here. If the foundations are not made, the drainage pit will quickly tighten with silt, and if the base bursts, the walls may also suffer. It will be so difficult to make such repairs that it is easier to dig a new hole!

The soil is covered with a layer of sand, gravel and a concrete base is poured. The thickness depends on the diameter of the pit - the larger it is, the thicker the concrete layer should be.

Roughly speaking, 15 - 20 cm. It will be great to reinforce the concrete pancake with reinforcement. Even if the budget is modest, you can always find pieces of old water pipes, bed nooks, etc. We level it with a trowel, take out the ladder and wait 5 - 7 days.

Alternatively, you can use a ready-made concrete pancake of a suitable diameter, but then you need to fuss about buying it, transporting it and lowering it into the pit (you need a crane).

Sometimes a hole is made without a foundation, with the aim of being "absorbed" into the soil. However, after a few years it will stop absorbing anyway. silt.
In order not to solve complex problems later, it is better to prevent them immediately.

Walls

Sometimes, you can find advice that the laying of bricks for the pit is done in a checkerboard pattern with breaks in the seams, so that "water from the pit is absorbed into the ground" through the walls. This method is suitable only for the second, drainage pit (see below).

First of all, the first pit must be sealed. For this, the walls are even covered with bituminous mastic.

The laying is done in half a brick (12 cm.), With a large diameter - in brick (25 cm). The solution is kneaded - cement with sand 1: 3, or 1: 4.

Read about the types of treatment systems for waste disposal here.

And here http://aquacomm.ru/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/ustroystvo-slivnogo-bachka-unitaza.html everything about the features of internal fittings for cisterns. Float type and fittings with buttons, as well as tank options.

aquacomm.ru

What materials will be required in order to complete the construction of a well

In order to build a well, you will need the following:

Flat slate sheets;
steel pipes;
steel wire;
corners;
shovel;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, building level;
tachanka.

Note that you can equip a pit for a country toilet in the same way, but this is how we are, by the way.

How to build a cesspool using slate

www.raznyesamodelki.ru

Types of cesspools

A cesspool in a private house can have a different scheme and design, be created from different materials. There are several types of pits:

bottomless structures;
septic tanks;
sealed storage systems.

Schematic location of the cesspool and its system

Advantages of different types of structures

The bottomless design is small. Its main advantages include:

no need for constant cleaning;
has small parameters.

However, waste will enter the soil and pollute it. A pit without a bottom is suitable for arranging a summer cottage, where sewers are not often used. With a daily water consumption of up to 1m3, the soil will clean itself on its own.

The main points in the organization of the sewer system

When designing a cesspool, the main details should be considered:

the container can be without a bottom or sealed with regular cleaning with a vacuum cleaner;
the sewer container should be located at a safe distance from groundwater and buildings (outbuildings - from 3 m, residential buildings - from 5 m);
it is necessary to provide easy access for cleaning the container;
the parameters of the sewerage capacity depend on the number of people living in the house (on average, about 0.5 m3 of water is diverted per person).

To prevent feces from entering the aquifer, the distance between the lower level of the sewer hole in the soil and the water source should not be less than 1 m.

the location of the sewer hole

Based on the type of soil, the distance from the well or well to the drainage pit can be 20-50 m.

Materials for the manufacture of budget sewerage

Other options for cesspools

The device of a cesspool in a private house can be made of concrete rings, plastic or metal containers.

construction of a cesspool made of concrete rings

At the preparatory stage during the construction of the sewage system, the organization of the drain tank and the options for its installation are selected.

1. Construction of a sewage system from concrete rings

construction of a brick cesspool

Around the constructed structure, soil with sand and gravel is laid, after which they are compacted.

2. Construction of a sewerage system from a plastic or metal container

the location of the cesspool on the site

The best solution for a cesspool would be a plastic container, the walls of which are protected from the action of organic waste entering the interior. When digging a pit, the parameters of the plastic tank are taken into account. The bottom of the pit is reinforced with a sand and gravel pad or concrete mortar. 24 hours after the preparatory work, you can install a container, on the side of which, in the area of \u200b\u200bsoil freezing, an opening is made for the supply of the drain pipeline. All joints are treated with a sealant.

Due to the lack of drainage in such a sewer structure, it must be periodically cleaned with a sewer.

Installation of pipes

The autonomous sewage system of a private house includes a treatment plant, as well as a sewer pipeline. Correct pipe-laying is essential to ensure proper system operation.

Pipes should be laid according to the following rules:

you need to start their installation from the storage tank in the direction of the details of the internal sewage system of the house;
the pipeline must be insulated to protect it from freezing in cold weather. To do this, you can use the "sandwich" technology, wrapping the pipe with insulation made of specialized foamed polyethylene, on which an asbestos-cement pipeline is then put on;
pipes can be connected by couplings or by welding;
the number of turns should be minimized and pipe bends should be removed so that there are no blockages;
for the gravity flow of drains, an optimal slope must be created;
if it is necessary to design a turn of pipes, a rotary sewer well is installed in this area from concrete rings.

Creation of a drainage system

With a properly calculated and created drainage system, the house is protected from water, there is no flooding of roads and vegetation.

cesspool drainage and drainage system