Layout of the garden and vegetable garden. Orchard: rules for garden planning and tree selection Planning of plantings on the site

It often happens that the garden space is organized: on the first impulse, under the influence of emotions or under the influence of advertising, seedlings, flowers, accessories are bought, and then all this is placed randomly on the site or according to the principle "like everyone else." How will it all end? The same thing: it soon turns out that almost everything was out of place and, as a result, the site is ugly and inconvenient.

To get what you want, you need to act like professionals from the very beginning - to competently plan your garden. There is no other way, only preliminary planning allows you to get the garden you dream of.

Dinner Zone

groenbedrijflimburg.be

What garden do you dream of? Here you need to stop. This is the first professional step. You need to determine what kind of garden you want, and very specific and "financially". To do this, start with yourself.

Take a blank sheet of paper and, in a calm atmosphere, think and write down: what you love and what you don’t, what needs, hobbies, family traditions you have, how you spend your leisure time, what inspires, what you want to achieve. It is important. Let each member of your family write such a record, this "research" will then help you in choosing specific options.

Resting-place

flowerpower.com.au

Now it is time to put together a family council. Get together and have each one make a list of their wishes regarding what they would like to have on the site. At first, abstract from the size of the site, as well as from whether it is new or already has plantings and structures on it. Do not limit your imagination, write down whatever you want: a bathhouse, a gazebo, orchard, a vegetable garden, a patio, a rock garden, an alpine slide, a pond, a workshop ... Children will probably need a playground, and older family members will need a cozy bench. And where there is a vegetable garden, there is a shed and a compost heap. Discuss your lists together and roughly estimate the area for everything planned. It is quite natural that everything will not fit on the site. Therefore, you need to go through the lists a few more times and cross out everything that you can do without, and it is at this stage that your first list will help you - the list of your personal priorities.

The location of the beds

sustainablenovato.org

You have identified your “objects of desire”. The next step is to create a "collection of ideas". To do this, you need a bright folder with pocket files. Gradually add into it all the "images" that are related to your future "design project": magazine clippings, photographs, drawings, samples of flower beds, gazebos, original ideas, color solutions, materials from exhibitions. At the beginning, don't analyze feasibility, complexity - just collect whatever you like. The most unexpected solutions will come, not necessarily in the same versions as in your "collection", and from this "kaleidoscope" your unique version will be formed.

Well, now - you are ready to start planning directly. After all, now you know your dream "by sight". When planning, you need to consider whether you have a completely new plot, or an already inhabited garden. A dream garden is real to you anyway. A completely inhabited garden can also be re-planned one hundred percent, it's all about the method used

Shrubs

Use very effective method, which does not require special skills and abilities. It is called the “kalek method”.

1. The boundaries of the garden. Take a blank sheet of paper and draw the boundaries of your site. To do this, you need graph paper (scale 1: 100, which means that a meter on the site corresponds to a centimeter on paper. This will be the most convenient scale for you). You can take plain white paper, and at the same time use a scale ruler (such rulers are sold in different scales, choose the one with 1: 100). You will also need pencils (plain and colored), compasses, square, ruler, tracing paper, tape measure and compass. Measure the sides of the patch with a tape measure before drawing. By the way, if you do not know how to draw at all, documents for your site will help you - there should be a plan on a scale, its configuration. You just have to scale them up to the larger scale you want.

Stone as a material for improvised buildings

foudejardins.com

2. Garden zoning. Here you need to determine which zones (parts of the garden) will be located where and what size they will be. Zones always have some function and are usually distinguished: a residential area (house, summer house, summer kitchen, patio, etc.), recreation areas (gazebo, barbecue area, pond, pool), utility areas (garden, vegetable garden, barn, garage, workshop, etc.). But this is only indicative, and you yourself can "establish" any zones, since you already have your own wishes.

The zones should be marked on your "design project". But not on the sheet of paper where you drew the boundaries of the site! Take a few sheets of tracing paper for this. Transfer your original plan to tracing paper in several copies and mark the zones on one of them. They are drawn in the form of free-form abstract spots. Sign them up. Consider the resulting option. It is possible that questions will arise where it is better to locate any area, for example, a gazebo. And you just have a few cages. Think this way and that, compare the options, move the tracing paper along the main plan and you will immediately see the best one. So, gradually, you will receive a complete plan of the zones (and determine their size according to your needs). At this stage, the priority is given to practicality and rationality, because even the most effective design is unlikely to please you if it is inconvenient on the site.

Podiums

3. Tracks. Draw them on tracing paper. First, use the arrows to mark the intended routes of your movement, and then along them draw the outlines of the tracks with lines. Their exact width and shape can be painted later. The main criterion is to be comfortable. For decorative reasons, do not make all the paths completely flat, just let it bend slightly. Loop them around the garden - combine them into a single route. This is both convenient and practical; this is one of the techniques of landscape architecture.

4. Trees and shrubs. Draw them on tracing paper in circles of the appropriate size; for this, ask the reference books what size the crown of the trees you have chosen in adulthood is and what distance they need when planting. General recommendation the location is as follows: taller plants - in the lower part of the site, flowering - closer to the recreation areas. Shrubs, including berries, can be used to frame the path, conifers can be fenced off from the prevailing winds.

5. Flower beds. Draw everything on the next tracing paper, as there will be many options! Arrange them however you like, but don't forget about lighting requirements. A place for roses - in front of the house and on the south side, conifers and heathers are good in a rock garden, give the entrance to the site to plants that bloom longer than others.

Garden furniture

6. Vertical gardening. We draw it with conventional icons also on tracing paper. Choose "your" types vertical gardeningthat you like: screens, arches, trellises, pergolas, etc.

7. Garden accents. Place accents on a schematic plan: garden accessories, containers with plants, think over lighting, spectacular details. In short, give the site a "zest".

And now - the most exciting moment! By combining all your tracing papers, you have a plan for your dream garden.

Courtyard

www.meaningfullife.com

The same method is used here, but with some peculiarities.

1. Analysis of the existing conditions.At the very beginning of planning, you should draw the boundaries of the garden. But what follows is an analysis of the existing conditions - what is "given" to you. It is necessary to draw a plan of the site as it is now. So, you have drawn the boundaries of the site, and now draw on this plan all those objects that are already on it (trees, buildings, etc.). The resulting plan of what is "given" now needs to be supplemented. This means identifying the individual characteristics of your site. Mark the cardinal points on the plan, defining them with the help of a compass - this is very important for the correct orientation of future plantings and buildings, this is your light "climate". Mark all the features of the microrelief - depressions, elevations, irregularities and sign them. Draw the direction of the slope with the arrow, if any. Estimate its angle by eye. Pay attention to the landscape around you, the proximity of a forest, a reservoir, roads, how beautiful the views opening from the site are, to the buildings of neighbors. Sign directly on the plan what you would like to hide, and what, on the contrary, to reveal. Draw objects on the plan with simple geometric shapes - circles, rectangles of the appropriate size, preferably colored.

If your garden is inhabited, you know a lot about it. Therefore, be sure to note on the plan the direction of the prevailing winds, the "schedule of movement" of shadows during the day, the location of the warmest and coldest places (those where frost is guaranteed and snow lasts longer). It would be very good, of course, to find out the level of groundwater and the composition of the soil (approximately, an accurate analysis is not needed).

It is very good to use the camera when analyzing the existing conditions. It will be very convenient to photograph some corners of your estate, so that you always have material for thought in front of your eyes and not miss a single detail.

Decorative lantern

mimimiamiliving.com

2. Zoning of the inhabited garden. The main thing when zoning is to take into account those individual features that you identified in the first step: the relief, the surrounding landscape, existing buildings, climatic features. If from somewhere opens especially beautiful view - it is logical to make a recreation area there, if there is a low or hollow - better place for the pond is not found. The most important design secret: most of the disadvantages of your site are actually pluses, this is luck, this is your individual style, it is thanks to them that your site will become unique!

Flower border

www.homesandland.com

If the site has already been developed, there are buildings and landings, then you need to consider each "object", to what extent it suits you and fits into the new zoning. There is no need to be afraid of drastic changes, since everything can always be adapted to new conditions, for this there are special decorative techniques.

All the next five steps - Plan paths, plants, flower beds, vertical landscaping and garden accents on separate tracing papers in the same way as when planning a new garden. But before that, after zoning, mark on the tracing paper only those objects that you would like to leave in the garden, and abstract from the rest - do not transfer them to your project.

With the acquisition of a land plot, the owner has to deal with the zoning of the territory. Now there are many specialists in this field who, with the help of professional techniques, can create beauty. The layout of the garden can be done independently if you become familiar with the features of this work. Indeed, on the site you can plant not only trees, but also shrubs, vegetable crops... More details about the design of the territory are described in the article.

Training

The garden should be located in the open sun in an area with a high level of groundwater. It should not be laid in a low place, where cold air and water will flow during the spring flood.

After an external inspection of the territory, you need to plan the following works:

1. Clearing the area from old stumps, wild bushes, stones, and other debris.
2. You need to plow the area deeply.
3. It is necessary to water for weed seedlings. After sprouting, deep cultivation must be performed and the area leveled.
4. At the same time, you need to give the soil to the laboratory to establish the physical condition and type of soil, chemical composition... This is required for further care: use of fertilizers, irrigation, and other agrotechnical procedures.
5. According to the results of the analysis, it is necessary to introduce the necessary doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for the autumn processing. Without these data, fertilization is undesirable.

What is important to consider before planning?

Before planning the garden, you need to consider some of the nuances:

1. What area can be allocated for an orchard. Trees with spreading crowns need a distance of 4 sq. m.
2. Terrain relief. A flat territory or a gentle slope is suitable for an orchard, cold air in the pits, a lot of moisture, these areas are unfavorable for fruit trees.
3. Analysis of the territory's soils. Fruit crops have a strong root system, fertile soil is needed to ensure good nutrition. For garden area stony, clayey, sandy soil is not suitable. The proximity of groundwater negatively affects the growth of trees.
4. The presence of light and heat. Fruit trees need required amount light and heat, as their growth slows down in the shade. Terrain with strong winds will not be entirely suitable, as it interferes with proper pollination, dries out the land, damages crops and breaks branches. A high fence or green spaces serve as partial protection from it.

Features of the layout

Garden planning begins with paper diagrams. If there is a house on the territory, planning should be performed from it. A diagram of the site, the contours of the object and other buildings, as well as places where there are trees, is applied on paper. This area is protected by trees planted around.

If the land is not built up, a plot is applied to the scheme for building a house. The layout of the garden assumes the presence of a front garden. Housing should face the street, in front of it there is a part of the land for the front garden. Its size is determined by the area of \u200b\u200bthe territory.

On a small front garden, you need to plant flowers, berry bushes, on a large one - decorative and fruit trees, flowers. Large fruit plants - apple trees, pears - should preferably be planted in the northeastern part. There should be cherries and plums in between.

Plan

To have the correct layout of the garden and vegetable garden, you need to create sketches of the site. In the plan, you need to indicate the buildings, the approximate location of the remaining objects. It is necessary to mark holes for planting bushes and trees. They should be planted at a distance so that they do not shade as they grow.

Bushes and trees that are closely spaced do not grow well, moreover, this leads to diseases of horticultural crops. Fruit trees have a strong root system that must develop freely. If there are wild bushes and stumps on the territory that should be uprooted, all work must be done and the wood residues must be burned. Ash must be left in a dry place, it will be required to obtain fertile beds.

The layout of the garden on the site should be such that trees do not shade adjacent areas. Today the beds are fashionable original form, for example, a pizza garden. In this case, the rest are located from the round bed in the center. Raspberries, blackberries, berry bushes, bearing fruit and shade, are planted near the boundaries of the site.

Which crops to choose?

When planning an orchard, you need to decide on the types of plants. It is necessary to select trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in the area. For middle band selected pears, apple trees, plums, cherry plums, cherries. Cherries and apricots grow better in warmer regions.

From berry bushes, you can choose currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. The layout of a garden on 10 acres is much easier than with a large area. With a small area, it is preferable to arrange shrubs around the perimeter. On vegetable beds, it is necessary to plant crops growing close to each other: cabbage, cucumbers, peas.

Popular types of layout

The garden planning project will create an original plot. Now there are 4 design options:

1. Straightforward. This option is not only beautiful, but also simple. This arrangement allows you to put things in order on the site. This type of design allows you to get the effect of reducing the space.
2. Circular arrangement. To get it, you need skills in landscape design. Such a design will allow you to create an orchard and flower beds, and it is more difficult to use it for a vegetable garden.
3. Diagonal. In this way, you can arrange a garden plot of 15 acres and more. With the help of the diagonal directionality, visual volume is obtained. It allows you to compose the location of different areas.
4. Creative option. There are no specific rules here. Usually it contains elements of other types. It is used for areas with a special configuration.

Each layout option is original in its own way. Before implementing a project, you need to draw it on paper. If land is purchased with some buildings and plantings that you do not want to remove, then they must be marked first.

Communications

The layout of the personal plot, garden, vegetable garden is not complete without communications equipment. The systems facilitate the operation and maintenance of the territory and improve functionality. They will create additional conditions.

To organize garden plot drainage systems, sewerage systems, organization of gas pipeline and water supply are required. A well, septic tank or well is also required. These engineering objects must be located at a sufficient distance from each other. There must be a system street lighting... Wiring must be carried out at a depth of 70 cm. Installation must be carried out before planting plants and arranging garden paths.

Recreation area

If the territory is divided into an orchard, it is necessary to determine a place for rest. Even in a small area, you can place a modest, but harmoniously inscribed gazebo. It should be beautiful and comfortable. In large areas, it will be possible to create a summer kitchen, a swimming pool, an observation deck, and more.

The list of ideas is limited only by the possibilities of the area and the desire of the owner. But in any case, the recreation area should be in a comfortable place, not interfere with other areas. It is preferable to remove it from utility blocks and communications.

Planting pit preparation

The layout of a small garden and a large plot assumes the correct planting of plants. Moreover, this must be done according to some rules. The garden must be laid in the fall. It is necessary to dig a planting hole according to the scheme, prepare fertilizers for the soil.

The pit will be approximate dimensions, since the final version is set on the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the seedling. The approximate size of the pit is 60x60, if the seedlings are 2-year-old, and for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm.

Soil preparation

Near each pit, the top layer of earth should be mixed with humus and peat. In the spring, before planting, 1 glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska are added to the mixture. Everything should be mixed thoroughly. Seedlings need to be bought from trusted producers.

Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting must be done in the spring. During the growing season, seedlings grow stronger. Young trees get used to the new habitat during the warm period. You should not purchase seedlings from unfamiliar sellers. It is advisable to do this on farms that grow them. Then it is more likely that a zoned variety will be bought. You need to inspect the purchased seedling. You should not take it if it has dry roots, a crooked trunk, cracks in the bark.

Landing

There are rules for planting seedlings. 1-2 days before that, they must be soaked in horse meat or another growth stimulator. Then you need to prepare a container of clay talker with root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides used for tank mixes are also suitable.

2-3 weeks before planting, you need to fill up a part of the soil mixture with a cone into the pit. During this time, the cone will settle and the seedling will be correctly placed in the hole. It must be dipped into a chatterbox, inserted into a hole, and the root should be straightened so that there are no creases. On 2/3 the pit is filled with soil mixture.

You need to fill a bucket of water. After absorption, you need to fill in the rest of the soil mixture or soil. Drive in a stake and fix the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling will have small roots cut off.

Landing subtleties

During planting, you need to check the correctness of the depth of the root collar. With deepening, the tree dries up after 5-10 years. With lungs sandy loam soils it is desirable to deepen the root collar a little into the soil - by 10 cm. In seedlings that form roots or shoots, deepening will not interfere with the proper development of the plant. Such crops quickly rearrange the root system.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be in the area of \u200b\u200bthe planting pit or 2-3 cm higher. And in the vaccinated, the vaccination site is 4-8 cm above the root collar. Novice gardeners often confuse these places. You need to be careful about planting, because if you make mistakes, the tree quickly dies.

If the root collar is correctly identified and the seedling is planted so that it is 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. It is necessary to tighten the kidney near the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, you need to make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 buckets of water.

The root collar should be 2-3 cm higher than the soil. If necessary, you can fill up the soil after watering and mulch with a layer of fine mulch. If you purchased live seedlings and the planting was carried out correctly, then after 2-3 weeks the first leaves will appear.

Determination of the root collar

1. Have young seedling wipe the bottom of the trunk and root with a damp cloth. The root collar can be identified by the transition from greenish to light brown.
2. In adult seedlings (3-4 years old), wipe the lower area of \u200b\u200bthe trunk with a wet cloth and, after drying, scrape off the bark with a knife. If in the area of \u200b\u200bexpansion the shade of the subcrustal layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root part. The place of color transition is considered the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of origin of the upper lateral roots from the trunk is clearly visible. This will be the root collar.

What is prohibited when landing?

1. Apply semi-rotten manure, only humus with soil.
2. Water frequently with a little water. This dries out the soil.
3. Use cold water for irrigation.
4. Fertilize the plants in the first year.
5. After planting, mulch the trunk area.

What do you need to do when landing?

1. Seedlings should be whitened with a solution of chalk and clay, biological products for diseases and pests.
2. Insulate the sash with burlap, paper, lutrasil.
3. A chain-link mesh will protect the trunk from rodents.
4. After a snowfall, trample the snow near the trunk.

Thus, the layout of the garden assumes competent zoning of the territory. It should have trees, shrubs, an area for recreation. Also needed correct fit plants in compliance with all norms. Then you get a beautiful garden, created according to the rules of landscape design.

For Us, the land is a natural wealth that fed our grandfathers and parents. Today, only a small percentage of people manage to interact with her directly - arriving at dachas a couple of tens of kilometers away, living in rural settlements or their own private house in the city. All these options often agree on one thing - cultivation work, weed removal, planting of cultivated plants and (or) ... Sometimes, all these things are carried out on "weekends", after working days. But, after all, you need to rest, go out to the summer terrace or just stand on the edge of the garden and contemplate how you were able to correctly plan the garden on your site.

Of course, while the vast expanses of the snow cover are in front of you, you will not "plan" much, but there is a warm blanket, a cozy armchair, you have brewed delicious tea for yourself and just, you can begin to determine from a theoretical point of view, how you want to plan your garden.

If you decide, you can give everyone square meter land such that cultivated plants will give up to 15% -20% of the harvest more, the flowers will be slimmer, and the eye will only rejoice

Based on this, we offer for you the following theses, which We will reveal during our "journey" on planning "work space":

• We decide on a landing plan;
• We form the correct dimensions and position of the beds;
• The alternation of cultures - what it is and with what it is eaten;
• Combined fit;
• Crop rotation and many other "burning" issues and their solutions.

Garden planning

Soil in the garden

We are sure that you, as an experienced person in terms of the annual selection of crops grown on your site, know that in order to plan them, you need to know which soil in the garden is more suitable for a particular variety, variety. And if earlier this was done "by eye", now it is necessary to correctly determine the soil composition, which means that it is imperative to recognize it acidity (pH).

It is quite simple to do this - take samples taken from the garden to a special laboratory. Necessarily, for a more accurate composition, you need to take several samples from different parts of it. If you do not want to wait long, pay or are simply interested, but is it possible to do this test at home, we answer - albeit not so accurate, but possible. To do this, take the same "samples", mix them thoroughly to get, literally a homogeneous mass and pour a part into a jar or other container. Next, pour in some vinegar and see the result. There will be 2 of them, and each will indicate its own designation:

• Bubbles appear on the soil sample on contact with vinegar, which will mean neutral pH;
• The vinegar will soak into the ground with no visible reaction, which will determine acidic pH soil.

We must say right away that this is not the most accurate analysis, but it allows you to quickly and clearly highlight this important issue.

Planning rules or how to plan a vegetable garden

In addition to the composition of the soil, plan a plot the competent arrangement of those several beds, which you are already "sorting out" in your imagination, will help. Here are some rules to help you with this:

• Most the best way the location of the garden - flat terrain. In cases where the site is on a slope, choose the southern or southeastern part;
• Be sure to resolve the issue with. Innovation or automation is not important here - it's your choice. Both large and small gardens love the availability of water, which will be more convenient for you;
• We define the soil. Chernozem is best suited to plan a garden and get a rich harvest. But if heavy clay prevails in the soil, it will be necessary to refine it and bring peat, sand, or black soil itself to the site;
• If you are still undecided on how to make the correct beds and where to start, start by planning the area away from the trees. They will not create shade, and at any time the soil will be warmed up by the sun's rays.

• From south to north beds are located if the plot you own is in the lowlands. Often, the earth is constantly damp, which means that it needs to be warmed up by the sun;
• From west to east, beds are planned in case of dry soil. The row spacing will be under the shade of the plants, which will retain moisture;
• When the ground slopes, it is better to break the beds across;
• South side suitable for planning a vegetable garden, and the north - a garden, if the plot is initially uneven.

How to plan a vegetable garden

Create a landing plan

We agree that planning a garden is a painstaking work that will take not a single day, but without this you will not make rich harvests, and this place will not become a rest for you.

The first thing to start with - Drawing a plan of "ownership" on paper

The drawing should contain the most complete information: shape and size, information about the acidity of the soil, its orientation. Next, divide the site into zones - garden, vegetable garden, residential and utility zones. It will be great if you observe and enter the value of the shadow from buildings, trees. Now, in order to plan the vegetable garden more clearly, we make its "model". To do this, cut strips out of paper and write the name of the plants you will plant, as well as important devices such as irrigation centers,. Place them, play and find the right combination... For those who believe that these actions "can be omitted", let's say that it is better to prepare on paper than to find the right places in the garden itself in the spring. When all the forms and places are determined, you can think about the varieties and varieties of crops that are needed in the garden.

Correct beds

If there are no correct beds in the garden, then rest will not work - everything will be painstaking work. Therefore, we will pay attention to the beds in order to correctly plan the garden.

• Lowering or raising

There are several positions for the beds: recessed, raised, level with the ground. The level is determined by the availability of the ability to water every day, natural conditions. For example, if you cannot water your beds every day, then it is better to deepen them, and vice versa.

• Overall dimensions

Forms can be completely different, the most important thing is convenient access. If the length can be any, then the width for easy access should not be more than 1 meter. The optimal width is from 60 cm. The size design is at your request (brick, slate, etc. or not).

• Crop rotation of your crops

This is one of critical issues, which must be solved not only to plan the garden, but also to get a rich harvest. The sequence of "returning to the previous place" is about 4 years. Therefore, we advise you to divide the entire area into 4 sections, and we observe all the necessary priorities, according to the crop rotation tables.

• Combined planting of crops

Here, in order to competently plan the site, it is worth knowing which cultures will not be able to get along side by side, and which ones will even help grow, forming a “community”. For example, beans and, among agronomists, are called "Three Sisters", because their growth rates are perfect for each other. But, it is worth knowing that not all plants are so “friendly”. Dill and a knowledgeable person will never plant nearby. The same goes for beans and. In order to understand exactly which cultures help, and which ones “bury” each other, see the TABLE:

Crop compatibility chart

Crop compatibility chart

Interesting tip: Garlic can not only help a person to strengthen the immune system, but also allow you to take care of the "immune system" of plants. This means that they will hurt much less. To do this, do useful infusion according to the recipe: cut 5 garlic teeth and pour boiling water over them (1 liter), and then, close the lid and let it brew for about 20 minutes. Immediately after that, in order to prevent any diseases, you can water indoor and garden plants with this infusion.

Planning and planting a vegetable garden of 6 acres

It is quite simple to plan a large-area vegetable garden, due to its good dimensions. But here on 6 acres you will not particularly roam. But this is not a problem either, especially when you consider several nuances:

• Garage position;

Do not arrange a garage in the back of the cottage (house), because you will need to provide a road (entrance) for the car.

• The south-facing garden will shade most of the day;
• Installation of the barbecue is best done from the windward side;
• The non-standard shape of the flower beds will allow not only planning the garden, but also visually expanding it;
• A mini-garden located in the area of \u200b\u200ba barbecue or a gazebo will decorate the perimeter and save space;

For this, a block is knocked out of the boards, earth is poured and flowers or crops are planted. The bed can be fenced with a wattle fence to limit the beds.

• Drainage systems in lowlands are simply irreplaceable;

If your site is located on a slope, then the lower part will always contain excess moisture. Exactly drainage systems, disguised in special terraces, visually and actually make the use of the site more convenient.

These tips will serve as a good lesson in how to plan a simple vegetable garden. small sizeand large areas.

So, adhering to the above measures, you can make the right vegetable garden this spring right from a piece of paper, which will bear fruit to your delight.

We wish you a rest on your personal plot and not trust people who say that work in the country turns into torture. Turn your plot into a fairy tale now.

The layout of a fruit and berry orchard is a responsible task, on the solution of which the supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries will depend in the future. Therefore, when planning a site, you need to hurry slowly (as the people say).

Preparatory work

When planning a land plot, it is necessary to allocate an open sunny place with a high groundwater table. You cannot lay a garden in a lowland, where cold streams of air and water will roll down during spring floods. After an external examination of the land allocated for the garden, identify and write down a list of preparatory work in your diary.

woodcroft orchard

• Clear the area from old stumps, wild bushes, stones and other debris.
• Plow the area deeply or dig up with a turnover.
• Water to provoke weed shoots. Cultivate deeply and level the area at the shoots.
• At the same time, take the soil to the nearest chemical laboratory to determine the physical state and type of soil, its chemical composition. This is necessary for the subsequent care of the garden: fertilization, irrigation, and other agricultural activities.
• Based on the results of the analysis (according to the recommendations), apply the recommended doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for the final autumn treatment. Without such data, it is impractical to fertilize the site. It is better to apply fertilizers and other components directly to the planting hole ( mineral fertilizers, humus or vermicompost, hydrated lime, biological products for pests and diseases).

Zoning when planning garden and berry plantings

On a separate sheet of garden diary, draw the garden layout diagram. The garden can be located in front of the house, to the side or to the back, but trees and shrubs should be located from north to south for better lighting and have three zones. They can be located one after the other or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total cottage area.

• If the zoning is joint, then a vegetable garden is laid in the first zone, the plants of which will not shade the crops of the second zone, and in the morning they will receive their share of the sun.
• In the second zone, it is better to place the berries. Their height is up to 1.5 meters. The morning shade from the bushes will not harm the plants of the third zone.
• In the third zone, the actual orchard will be planted. It should be at a distance of 2.5-3.0 m from neighbors, so as not to shade their area.

On the pages of your garden diary, write down the names and brief description fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram indicate their location under the numbers on the area of \u200b\u200bthe site.

pickleshlee

Berry layout

When breaking down the berry on the diagram, immediately take into account the nature of the plants. So, black currant grows quietly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are rather quarrelsome with neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as green hedge, and viburnum, hawthorn - in the landscape decoration of the recreation area. In solitary plantings of mown lawns, they look great.

Some owners believe that it is generally better to place berries along the borders of the site. In this case, part of the land is freed up for other crops or zones (recreation, sports, etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not surrounded by a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their own characteristics (thorny, dense, etc.).

The planting density of the berry is very important. It is a natural regulator of optimal plant development, their resistance to diseases and yield formation.

• Raspberries are planted in dense rows, 0.5 m apart and 1.0-1.5 meters between the rows. Growing up, raspberries take up the aisles, the former aisles are freed from raspberries and become temporary tracks. By pruning the overgrowth, the culture is reversed, returning after 2-4 years to its original place.
• Ioshta, black and golden currants are planted at a distance between the bushes of at least 1.5 m, and red after a meter. Large bushes will shade each other, the thorns of certain gooseberry varieties will completely limit access to the berries. Honeysuckle and irgu, when used with a green hedge, are planted after 1.0-1.5 meters (and even thicker), and in the berry at a distance of up to 2 meters.

Thomas generazio

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think over and plan in advance on the diagram the amount of each species and variety so that both provide the family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people there will be enough raspberries 20 bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, yoshta, irgi and honeysuckle. Leave some free space for exotic newbies who will come into your field of vision over time. A properly planned berry grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are transferred to another place.

Orchard breakdown

On the next free page of the garden diary, draw a layout diagram fruit crops... Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each culture. m total area under one tree. Do not thicken the planting. The trees will grow and begin to interfere, if not oppress each other. Planting holes should be in the row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave row spacing at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. So, today most farms are switching to columnar forms of apple and pear - the main horticultural crops in the country house. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to diseases, less damaged by frost.

For average family 1-2 trees of each type are enough. Early, middle and late varieties should be present in the garden in order to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also to prepare processed for the winter. From horticultural crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Plant 2 cherries instead of medium cherries. They form the harvest after early cherries. You need 1 quince (later you can graft on it another species or other varieties), 2-3 plums, including one marabel. 1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties are enough. 2-3 apple trees, which, over time, through grafting, can be turned into 6-8 varieties different terms ripening. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nut separately. Almost nothing grows under the crown of this culture. If you like hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with its shadow. 11-12 fruit trees will eventually develop into 18-20 varieties of all kinds.

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is imperative to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, and bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with the varieties and varieties for your region, up to the region, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact a specialist. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please with the harvest and quality of fruits.

General approaches to planting a garden

Lay the garden in the fall, that is, dig the planting holes according to your scheme, prepare the fertilizer mixture near each that is necessary for the condition of the soil.

Planting pit preparation

In the fall, you will be able to prepare a planting hole of only approximate dimensions, since the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the purchased seedling. The preliminary size of the planting pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings, for 3-year-old saplings it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when the seedling is planted in the hole.

Preparing the potting mix

Next to each hole, mix the topsoil with humus, peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add to this mixture a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska each. Mix well.

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Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting seedlings is best done in spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will get stronger, the root system will strengthen. During the warm spring-summer-autumn period, a young tree adapts to a new habitat.

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the country. It is better to buy seedlings from farms that grow them or in nurseries. There is more confidence that you will get the desired zoned variety of exactly the garden or berry crop you need.

Examine the selected seedling carefully. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark, or drops of gum, refuse to buy. Remember! No seller's assurances will refund lost time.

Planting rules for seedlings

1-2 days before planting, soak the seedlings in the root or other growth stimulant. Prepare a container of clay mash with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes can be used.

About 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, pour part of the soil mixture with a cone into the hole. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the hole. Dip the prepared seedling into a chatterbox, insert it into the hole, straighten the root in a cone so that there are no creases upward, and fill 2/3 of the hole with soil mixture. Pour a bucket of water. After soaking back up the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive in a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under the gusts of wind, will break off small roots that provide a connection between the plant and the soil.

Important nuances of landing

When planting, be sure to observe the correct depth of the root collar. When it deepens, the tree after 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils) may dry out for no reason. On light sandy loam soils (especially in the south), it is better to slightly bury the root collar into the soil (8-10 cm), “hiding” it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops quickly rebuild the root system, more often on insufficiently moistened soils.

In own-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be at the level of the planting pit or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is 4-8 cm above the root collar. Novice gardeners often confuse the root collar and grafting and deepen the planting to the grafting site. In this case, the root collar is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you have correctly identified the root collar and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. We compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, we make a roller 5-7 cm high and fill in another 2-3 buckets of water. Together with the absorbed water, it will be drawn into the soil and the seedling. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, fill up the soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If you bought live seedlings, the planting is done correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves.

starkbros

How to determine the root collar

1. In a young seedling, wipe well the lower part of the trunk and the beginning of the root with a wet rag. The root collar is defined as a greenish transition (trunk) to light brown (root zone).
2. For older seedlings (3-4 years old), wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet rag and, after the wet zone dries, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of an inconspicuous expansion of the trunk to the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped off color of the young subcrustal layer is green, then this is a stem, and if yellowish, then the root zone. The place of transition from one color to another is the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of origin of the upper lateral roots from the trunk is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The place of origin of the roots should remain above the level of the planting pit.

What not to do when planting seedlings

• When planting, you cannot use semi-rotted manure, only humus mixed with soil.
• You can not often water the seedlings with small amounts of water. They only dry up the soil in the planting pit.
• You can not water the seedlings cold water (from an artesian).
• It is impossible to fertilize plants in the first year after planting, especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
• After planting, it is impossible to mulch the trunk circle with a large layer of mulch. In the event of prolonged rains, the water accumulated in the mulch will cause the young bark to decay and the plant die. A thick layer of mulch is applied in the fall, which will protect the soil from freezing and death of seedlings from low temperatures.

What needs to be done when planting seedlings

• Whitewash young seedlings with a solution of chalk and clay with the addition of biological products for diseases and pests or a solution of copper sulfate.
• Insulate the trunk with several layers of burlap, lutrasil, spandbond, paper and other materials.
• Protect the trunk from hares and other rodents with a netting or spruce branches, burying the latter into the soil by 5-10 cm.
• After every sufficiently large snowfall, trample the snow around the trunk, which will protect the latter from injury by mice.

(19 estimates, average: 4,53 out of 5)

You can often hear from inexperienced summer residents that their trees do not produce the fruits as expected. And they begin to buy ultra-modern seedlings, cutting down all the previously planted trees. But in most cases, the people themselves are to blame for the fact that trees grow and bear fruit poorly. Most likely, the planting of trees was carried out according to the principle "the more the better", there was no question of planning the garden at all. And the result of this work was the plants that were always sick, not bearing fruit.

The main thing is for each owner of his own plot to understand that creating a garden, like creating a house, must begin with careful planning.

Where does the garden begin

A garden starts with being careful analyze soil quality and climate, in which your trees and shrubs will grow and bear fruit. If your site has too clay or sandy soil, then it is worth fertilizing it with chernozem, peat and other useful components so that the roots receive enough nutrition.

Climatic features that interfere with fruiting:

• too cold winters;
• late spring frosts;
• excessive moisture.

Therefore, trees should be selected based on the climate in which they will grow. Otherwise, you will never get fruit.

Choosing trees

Choosing fruit trees and shrubs for the garden should be strictly local selection. After all, only those apple trees, pears and cherry plums that are accustomed to the local climate can bear fruit successfully. They perfectly adapt to changes in temperature and humidity, delighting their owners with fruits, if not every year, then after a year.

Southern fruiting - apricots and peaches- are very afraid of autumn dampness... This is because in humid climates, flowering does not end with pollination, and they become just barren flowers without fruit. And pollen, along with moisture, simply falls to the ground. Spring frosts, which occur at the time of apricot flowering, are no less dangerous for these shrubs.

Sweet cherry does not tolerate the proximity of groundwater, and if melioration is not carried out in time, the plant will wither in the very near future. Excessive dampness in spring is also not beneficial: the fruits begin to blacken and crack before they ripen. Therefore, the planting of shrubs should be carried out in pre-drained soils.

It is worth choosing plants, strictly considering their performance. Think about whether it is worth allocating a few meters of land for trees that will bear fruit every five or six years, or is it easier to go to the store and buy a few kilograms of apricots or peaches, and plant trees on this land that will delight you with the harvest.

Gallery: garden layout (25 photos)

Plot marking

In order to know what trees to plant on the site, you need to draw on paper a diagram on which there will be all the existing buildings and those that you still plan to build: a house, a bathhouse, outbuildings. In addition, you should draw those trees that you are not going to uproot.

This is necessary because every building or tree casts a shadow on everything that grows on your site. Consequently, shrubs, trees and other plants will begin to stretch in the direction where there is more light. They spend a lot of energy on this, which could go to planting fruits. This will last until the moment when its top gets closer to the light and overcomes the obstacle. And therefore, if your house or bathhouse is completely shaded by planted trees and shrubs, then they cannot always outgrow them and they will never bear fruit.

In order to correctly distribute trees on the site, you should also paint the height of each building and cardinal points. Shade those areas on which the shadow will be located almost all day long. These zones not suitable for planting trees and shrubs... Here you can safely plant flowers, make a pond or a pool. In order for the trees to bear fruit, shade zones should be excluded from the places for their planting.

Planting plants

Now you need to figure out how to plant trees on the site correctly. To begin with, the gardener must decide how many trees and shrubs will grow in the garden. If you don't want to prune your plants periodically, then no more than 7 pears or apple trees can be planted on one hundred square meters of a vegetable garden or garden... Because when they grow up, they will begin to interfere with each other, casting a shadow. And so a private house will only decorate a garden and a vegetable garden on the site.

If pruning plants is still planned, then you can plant up to 15 fruit trees on one hundred square meters... If you consider yourself to be smart summer residents, then spend on columnar trees and plant them at a distance of a meter from each other. Examples of this type of tree can be found on the Internet or at a seedling store.

It is worth remembering that pruning leads to a decrease in fruit only in apricots and cherries, because the fruits grow all over the branch, and therefore it is not customary to prune them. All other trees need to be pruned constantly. This will help add light to the fruiting branches and make the fruit appear larger. The best option the formation of a crown in the form of a ball or wall will become if you have planted plants near the fence.

Apples and pears should be planted at least three meters apart... But the planting of shrubs can be carried out at a distance of at least one and a half meters from each other. The layout of the garden and vegetable garden should be carried out from south to north, so the plants will not cast shadows and interfere with each other.

Do not make the garden rectangular - it will not be very convenient when caring for plants. If the gardener has set up a rectangular orchard, then he will have to move with equipment and fertilizers very carefully along it so as not to damage the tree trunks with a wheelbarrow.

Garden plan

The modern layout of the garden has ceased to be strictly rectangular. And this happened because right angles are completely inconvenient to bend around with a wheelbarrow while fertilizing or watering the beds. Therefore, modern beds are made in such a way as to make it more convenient. Interesting ideas the layouts of the garden plot can be spied on from other summer residents and gardeners.

But nevertheless, there are a number of basic principles that help to achieve the maximum yield from the minimum number of beds:

If the gardener chose not to think about the layout of the garden or vegetable garden, then he will have to thoroughly torment himself with the cultivation of garden and vegetable garden crops. So, after sweating thoroughly once, planning the arrangement of trees or vegetables on the site, you can save yourself from unnecessary work in the future.