Shelves, shelving or closet above the toilet: a profitable solution for space and storage. Built-in wardrobes in the toilet behind the toilet: varieties of models and subtleties of manufacturing Do-it-yourself shelf from chipboard to the toilet

One of the main problems of a city apartment is the eternal lack of space. Countless detergents, tools, screws, nails, spare taps for the mixer and other household trifles quickly fill cabinets and shelves. Today we are going to meet a few simple designs toilet cabinets that can partially solve this problem.

Wishes

Ideally, any homemade cabinet above the toilet should meet a few simple requirements.

• The depth of the structure should be minimal. Places in the toilet and so little; our goal is to use the niche behind the tank to good use, and not to deprive ourselves of the remnants of comfort.
• The design must be moisture resistant. Humidity in the bathroom is always slightly higher than the average for the apartment due to the evaporation of moisture in the toilet bowl and cistern.

In addition: the toilet, bathroom and kitchen are more likely than other rooms to be flooded in case of accidents.
It is desirable that the next incident does not force the owner to make major repairs.

• Finally, the closet above the toilet should not block access to the risers located in the niche.. In the same place, valves are often hidden that block the water to the apartment, and filters coarse cleaning. In houses where hot water is not distributed centrally or is supplied intermittently, a boiler or instantaneous water heater is often located in the same niche.

Materials and Solutions

From what can minimal cost time, effort and money to build a cabinet in the toilet behind the toilet with your own hands?

Let's offer some simple solutions.

Drywall

From moisture-resistant drywall, you can make very aesthetic open shelves.

The frame is assembled from a galvanized profile; the order of further work is quite traditional for GKL structures:

1. Drywall parts cut to size are hemmed to the frame with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. To cut drywall, you can use a jigsaw, or you can simply break off the sheet by cutting it with a sharp knife by a third of its thickness.

1. The seams and caps of self-tapping screws are puttied with gypsum putty (ABC, Fugenfüller) twice with intermediate drying.
2. Then the seams are roughly rubbed with a grinding mesh and swept from dust, after which the entire surface of the gypsum board is primed with a penetrating primer.
3. The next step is reinforcing the seams. In the humble opinion of the author, for this purpose it is better to use not a sickle, but rolled fiberglass: with sufficient strength, it will make the seam less noticeable and allow you to do without the additional cost of putty for leveling. Fiberglass is glued to PVA slightly diluted with water.
4. After the reinforcement has dried, the seams are puttied again with the thinnest possible layer of gypsum, “on the peel”, sanded with a mesh, swept over and primed.

How can I finish the drywall shelves in the toilet behind the toilet?

Structural element	Finishing method
Upper horizontal surfaces	Tile. It's cut to size diamond disc and sits on ordinary tile adhesive; seams are rubbed with any colored grout
Vertical and lower horizontal surfaces	Waterproofing (rubber) water emulsion. It is applied in three coats with a brush or roller. It is better to wipe off stains on tiles immediately: rubber dye is very resistant; the author successfully used it to paint the steps on the street stairs
corners	It is better to paste over them with a PVC corner on silicone sealant. Galvanized or plastic corner profiles laid under putty will quickly lose their neat appearance. appearance

Plywood

A very strong and durable closet behind the toilet in the toilet can be made of plywood.

The specific design will be prompted to the reader by his creative talent; the author will focus on the technical problems of construction.

• It is better to use FC plywood with a thickness of 15 millimeters. More moisture resistant PSF is not suitable for residential premises due to the composition of the adhesive: it contains phenol formaldehyde.

• Shelves up to half a meter long do not need stiffeners and can be mounted on galvanized corners screwed to the walls with dowel screws. Longer shelves are best reinforced with vertical ribs cut from the same plywood. Rib width - about 50 mm; it can be launched along the near or far edge of the shelf.
• For cutting plywood, it is better to use a circular saw. Jigsaw cuts will always be less straight. Guide the saw along the cut should be slow: this way there will be much less burrs.
• Elongated parts are marked on the sheet in such a way that their longer edges on the front side are parallel to the veneer fibers in the surface layer. The reason is again in the edges of the cut: when cutting along the fibers, there will be no untidy scuffs and raised chips.
• Thick plywood can be butt-jointed with 45x4 mm self-tapping screws. The part that is fixed flat is pre-drilled with a 4 mm drill bit; the end of the second part is drilled with a diameter of 3 mm to a depth of 30 millimeters. Don't forget to countersink the hole to hide the screw head.
• Alkyd-urethane-based parquet varnish can be used as a protective and decorative coating. It is applied in three to five thin layers with intermediate drying. Before applying the first layer and after it has dried, the parts must be sanded: FK plywood initially has a far from ideal surface; varnishing will raise the pile on it, which will make the plywood rough.

Tree

Wood favorably differs from plywood in that it does not sag under long-term exposure to a significant load. In addition, wood (especially noble species) looks much better under a layer of transparent varnish; however, the price of this material is not comparable with the cost of one or two sheets of plywood.

To connect parts from a solid array, not self-tapping screws or nails are used, but dowels planted on glue. For the manufacture of dowels, hardwoods are used (from inexpensive birch is quite suitable); it is better to use natural glues: casein or albumin.

Wooden cabinet. The wall is made of lining, the door is made of a thin lath.

chipboard

A chipboard laminated on both sides attracts only with the simplicity of finishing the finished structure: in essence, the manufacturer only has to paste over the ends of the parts edging tape. With moisture resistance, everything is sad with her; there is also no question of any resistance to deformation - for shelves longer than 30 centimeters, stiffeners are required.

The only thing for which chipboard can be used without any problems is the manufacture of cabinet doors. The doors in the toilet behind the toilet will not be subjected to serious mechanical stress, and the vertical orientation will not allow the material to deform under its own weight.

In the photo - cabinet doors made of laminated chipboard.

A special case

Often, the owner of the apartment takes up the work for purely aesthetic reasons: the only goal is to close the risers of water supply and sewerage, which pretty much spoil the appearance of the toilet.

• Instead of drywall, it is better to use wall panels made of dense plastic. We emphasize that mechanical strength is important here. An accidental blow will easily pierce thin inexpensive panels domestic production; but one and a half times more expensive Italian ones can only be damaged with a hammer.

Tip: To test the strength of the plastic, squeeze the corner of the panel with your fingers.
If he crumpled - go to the next rack.

• The panels are fastened to the galvanized profile frame with clamps. The design must be collapsible: sooner or later access to the risers will be required. A starting L-shaped profile is launched along the perimeter of the wall.
.

• In order for the risers to be ventilated and not rust due to the formation of condensate, a pair of narrow and is mounted in the upper and lower parts of the wall.

Conclusion

Of course, we have considered only a small part complete list possible solutions. As usual, the reader can discover a few fresh ideas by watching the video in this article. Success in creative work!

The rational use of the bathroom space largely determines the level of its comfort, and the aesthetic component is important for making the room cozy and attractive. A plumbing element such as a toilet cabinet helps to achieve these goals. If such a product is present, it will be as convenient as possible to use the toilet.

The bathroom is one of the most important rooms in the house, and mistakes in its arrangement can affect the comfort of life. To increase the ergonomic characteristics of this space, it is worth choosing functional, beautiful, durable cabinets for the toilet.

Furniture of this kind has a huge number of advantages and allows you to solve many problems. important issues when decorating a bathroom:

• by veiling communications (sewer and water pipes), you can give the room an attractive, neat look. Exposed pipes can hardly be called beautiful, and their design rarely fits well in an apartment. Therefore, you should not leave them unattended. By choosing the right locker, it will be possible to get to communications at any time without much difficulty, which is extremely important in the event of a breakdown;
• choosing a spacious model, you can provide yourself with additional storage space household chemicals, items for cleaning. If you divide the space inside the product into a zone for pipes and for shelves, you can save a decent amount of space in the bathroom. This is especially important when the room has small size, as, for example, in Khrushchev;
• if there is a water meter, it can also be hidden in a locker in the toilet. Thus, you will provide yourself with hassle-free access to the equipment, but hide it behind the facade of the furniture for greater aesthetics of the interior.

Such furniture has a lot of advantages, it is for this reason that it is so popular among owners these days. country houses and apartments. But they are revealed to the maximum if a quality product is purchased.

Product options

Modern toilet cabinets are very diverse in terms of performance and appearance, so the consumer can easily choose a model in any style, depending on the decor of the bathroom of a particular size, color.

Let's describe the most popular types of toilet cabinets. According to the type of doors, plumbing products are distinguished with:

• louvered doors of two types: rolling and "pseudo-blinds". The first option is convenient for a small bathroom due to its compactness. The door does not swing open, which requires additional space, but folds up, rising up. Therefore, blind models can be hung in places that are inconvenient in shape. The second option is a regular facade, made in the form of blinds, but without the presence of movable slats. Such a door allows the internal contents of the furniture to be perfectly ventilated;
• a plumbing hatch that closes a niche with pipes. In practice, the hatch is an ordinary frame made of a corner, on which a metal door with a lock is mounted using hinges. Note that such a solution will not be expensive, but the hatch does not always look stylish, expensive;
• hinged facades - such designs are best made to order. They are diverse in design, size, functional and practical;
• compartment doors - this design does not require additional space to open the door, as it simply slides behind the second facade.

louvered

swing

With sanitary hatch

Based on the material of manufacture, models are distinguished from:

• Natural wood is an expensive, beautiful, durable material. But it is worth remembering that when combining a bathroom and a toilet, the service life of a wooden cabinet may be reduced. Enhanced Level air humidity will adversely affect the quality of surfaces
• MDF - the cost of structures made of MDF belongs to the category of medium, but under the influence of water, the material may lose its shape;
• Chipboard is the most undesirable option for a combined toilet with a bathtub, since chipboard quickly absorbs moisture from the air and swells. But for a separate toilet, chipboard is ideal option in terms of cost and external aesthetics;
• plastic is the most practical option, since plastic is not at all afraid of high humidity. But the appearance of plastic models is not always aesthetic. It's more of a budget option.

Wood

Plastic

Glass

Based on the shape of the product, cabinets are distinguished:

• rectangular - standard products that are selected for the bathroom more often than others;
• corner triangular - perfectly fit into the space of the corner, which allows you to rationally plan it;
• angular in the form of a trapezoid - more spacious than a triangular model;
• radius - possess unusual design but are quite expensive.

Placement methods

If the sewer pipe runs in a niche, it is worth picking up a standard rectangular or square cabinet in the toilet behind the toilet. This perfect solution to make communications attractive. The main thing is to guess with the size of the model so that it fits well into the niche. If you want to save money, you can not buy a ready-made cabinet, but pick up a hatch with a lock, with which they close a niche with pipes.

If the pipes are concentrated in the corner of the room, then you should opt for the corner cabinet model. Such designs are characterized by high capacity, and their design will give the toilet a pleasant look.

Additional functions

In small bathrooms, it is extremely important to endow all pieces of furniture with high functionality, practicality, in order to use the room as conveniently as possible at any time of the day. However, do not forget that the design small space also affects its comfort. Therefore, models of cabinets in the toilet should have additional functions. Such a product is shown in the photo in the selection.

With a mirror

backlit

How to choose

If the design of the bathroom is chosen, it remains to choose for it suitable model closet. When choosing a mini size toilet cabinet, it is important to remember the following:

• Initially, you need to decide on the choice of the shape of the product. If there is a niche, choose built-in models to order, if not, you can choose more affordable, ready-made models;
• then take measurements of the space to understand what size cabinet will fit into the bathroom. It is also required to measure the parameters of the pipes that will hide in the cabinet. Be sure to sketch schematically the features of their location before leaving for the furniture store;
• select current color solution and the design of a sanitary element that perfectly complements the decor of the bathroom;
• ask the seller for a quality certificate for the product, which will guarantee a long service life of the furniture, its practicality, and the high quality of the materials used in the manufacturing process. It is also important to clarify the availability of fasteners and other components. If in addition to the model there is no bracket or hardware, you will have to purchase such fasteners separately. They will allow the installation of the structure on the wall surface.

Remember, the closets in the toilet, the photos of which are presented below, should be in harmony with the decoration of the room, complement it with their beauty. Then the room will look concise, holistic.

Video

Photo

The question of how to make a toilet behind the toilet arises at first glance at this cramped room.

Here it is necessary to place detergents and hygiene products, other small items, but there is not enough free space.

A locker located in an unused space helps to solve this problem, as well as give the toilet a certain appeal.

You can easily make such furniture with your own hands, but for this you should take into account the specifics of the bathroom.

Preparation

The only place in the toilet where you can put storage for various necessary items is the space behind the toilet.

It is small, and even occupied by plumbing fixtures, but with the right approach, you can fit a fairly voluminous locker here.

It will not “eat up” usable space, but in order to become truly useful, it must meet specific requirements:

• minimum depth. The dimensions of the furniture should not interfere with the use of the toilet, which means that they cannot go beyond the cistern;
• moisture resistance. The toilet refers to a room with high humidity, and the proximity of the tank and pipes increases the risk of direct contact with water;
• the presence of ventilation holes to prevent the accumulation of fumes inside;
• security free access to plumbing equipment . In the area under consideration, pipes of cold and hot water, valves, cleaning filters and other components. The locker should not block access to them, even if these nodes are used very rarely;
• attractive appearance.

According to the installation method, toilet cabinets are divided into built-in and hinged (cabinet) types. In the first case, they fit between walls or in niches and are securely and permanently fixed. The cabinet cabinet is hung on the wall and is made as a separate, mobile piece of furniture. It can be moved, removed for a while.

Of what?

Materials for toilet furniture are selected taking into account the following requirements:

• sufficient mechanical strength;
• light weight;
• water resistance;
• external attractiveness;
• ease of processing during manufacture and cleaning during operation;
• ecological purity.

If they do not have sufficient moisture resistance, then it becomes necessary to apply protective coatings or carry out special hydrophobic impregnation.

The following materials are most often used for the manufacture of cabinets:

• drywall. For toilet conditions, its waterproof varieties are suitable. Drywall sheets are easy to process and sufficiently resistant to the action of condensate and moisture, they are not subject to decay. The appearance is given by staining in desired colors. The disadvantage is the low mechanical resistance to bending, as well as the fragility of corners and edges;
• plywood. For bathrooms, modifications of FK and FSF with increased water resistance are quite suitable. Usually sheets with a thickness of at least 14 mm are used. It should be noted that FSF-type plywood contains phenol-formaldehyde, which can be released from the material at elevated temperatures;
• wood. In the manufacture of the frame, a wooden beam is most often used. The board can also be used for doors. The main disadvantage is rotting under the influence of moisture, which requires impregnation of the material with special compounds;
• laminated chipboard(LDSP). Increased water resistance allows it to be used as shelves, doors and a hinged case. When choosing this material, one should take into account its significant mass, which leads to deformations under the action of its own weight. This circumstance requires the use of reinforcing elements (stiffening ribs);
• metal. In the manufacture of the frame, an aluminum profile is often used for attaching drywall or a metal corner. The metal has high mechanical strength, but steel elements require reliable protection from corrosion;
• plastic. Dense plastic panels are widely used as doors. A variety of colors makes it possible to provide the desired design. Important advantages are low weight and absolute water tightness.

The choice of materials for toilet cabinets is made taking into account the chosen design, dimensions, and design solutions.

Advice. The thickness should be optimal - provide the necessary strength, but not excessively increase the weight.

Scheme and drawing

Before starting the manufacture of the locker, it is necessary to think carefully about the way it is placed in a particular place. To do this, the space behind the toilet or installation is carefully measured, and a diagram of the location of plumbing units to which access must be left is drawn up. It is provided with special slots, holes, hatches.

Based on the drawn up scheme, a drawing is developed with full detailing and reference to the installation site. The design of the cabinet is quite simple - a frame, top and bottom panels, shelves and doors, and, if necessary, a false panel (rear wall).

Advice. The frame can be installed on the entire wall behind the toilet or occupy only the space above it and the cistern.

A typical toilet in apartment buildings often has width 82-85 cm. With this size, the edge panels and shelves are mounted to the full width. Cutouts are made in them for passing pipes. The depth of the cabinet is set according to the distance of the tank from the wall. As a rule, it is 30-40 cm. pipes require a cutout up to 25 cm long.

Doors can be of several options. Most often, simple, hinged doors (2 pieces) are installed. You can use projects with sliding doors and roller shutters.

Tools

For the manufacture and installation of a locker in the toilet, you must take care of such a tool in advance:

• perforator;
• Bulgarian;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• electric jigsaw;
• plane;
• hacksaw;
• scissors and a hacksaw for metal;
• hammer;
• chisels;
• pliers;
• paint brush.

To carry out measurements and quality control, you will need a building level, a plumb line, a tape measure, a metal ruler, and a square.

Manufacturing

Most in demand in cramped closets built-in wardrobe. It is installed between the walls behind the toilet and closes the back wall. After the development of the drawing and the installation scheme, you can begin to manufacture and assemble this furniture. First of all, the installation site is carefully prepared. The walls must be well dried. Clean off any dirt and damaged coating. If necessary, the surface of the walls is leveled.

Advice. If there are places with mold or fungus, then they are carefully cleaned and treated with copper sulphate.

frame over the toilet

The first step in cabinet installation is installation location marking. If the cabinet reaches the ceiling in height, then the marking starts from its surface. Extreme points are marked that limit the depth of the cabinet. A plumb line is lowered from them to check the location relative to the boundaries of the cistern. The mark should not go beyond it. A line is drawn - the border of the front part. It should be strictly perpendicular to the side walls of the toilet.

Next, carried out wall markings. The lower point is set by stepping back from the top of the tank to the distance necessary to service its handle during operation. A line parallel to the floor is drawn through this point.

With the help of a level, this marking is transferred to the opposite side so that both lines are at the same distance from the floor. Then, the location of the shelves inside the locker is marked on the walls.

If the height of the cabinet does not reach the ceiling, then all markings are provided on the walls. First, the lower boundaries are marked according to the specified method.

After that, the desired height of the cabinet is measured from them (according to the drawing) and lines are drawn that are strictly parallel to the bottom markup.

The most common design of the toilet cabinet frame is the lower and upper walls (panels) rigidly connected by vertical posts.

Advice. Most often, the frame is assembled separately, and then inserted into the wall and securely fixed.

Can be used as stands wooden bars measuring 30x30 mm or aluminum profile. Rigid panels made of chipboard, boards or thick plywood can be directly fastened with studs. For the manufacture of plasterboard panels, first, a frame is assembled from metal profile, which is sheathed with a sheet of drywall.

Before assembling the frame in the bottom panel, and if necessary in the top wall, a section is cut out for joining with pipes. To do this, a slot is made with a width equal to the diameter of the pipe, for the length of the distance of the line from the toilet wall. At the end of the slot, a semicircle is formed to wrap around the pipe. Such a slot allows you to "put" the panel on the pipe so that its far edge reaches the wall surface. Their number on the panel depends on the number of highways.

The assembly of the frame when using beams is provided by metal corners. If an aluminum profile is joined, then special metal screws are used. Assembled structure it is checked for the verticality of the racks using a plumb line and the horizontality of the panels using the building level.

The frame of the locker is installed in the selected place, focusing on the markup. Frame racks are attached to the wall dowels with a step of no more than 30 cm. To do this, before installing in the wall with a perforator, appropriate holes are made.

Important. If the walls of the bathroom do not have ideal verticality, then a gap is formed between the rack and the wall surface. A gasket should be placed in it, which provides a more rigid fastening of the frame.

Shelves

Shelves of lockers are most often made of Chipboard, waterproof plywood 15 mm thick or boards.

Before installation, cuts are made in them for pipes according to the above method. Saw cuts are made at the corners to bend around the vertical racks of the frame.

To install the shelves between the racks of the frame, according to the markings, crossbars made of a wooden bar or an aluminum profile are fixed on the wall.

The ends of the shelves lie on these crossbars and are fastened with self-tapping screws.

doors

The highest requirements are imposed on the doors of the toilet cabinet, because. they create a certain appearance. The following methods of their manufacture are distinguished:

When fixing the door leaves, it is important to ensure their symmetry and a strictly vertical arrangement. There should be no gap between them.

Important. Opening should be easy, but with the exception of self-opening.

decoration

The final stage in the manufacture of the locker is to give it an attractive appearance.

It is enough to cover wooden doors with waterproof varnish in several layers. Fits good alkyd urethane varnish.

Before varnishing, you can provide tinting with stains or special formulations emphasizing the structure. Chipboard and drywall will have to be covered primer and then paint in the desired color.

Advice. Plastic itself provides the decor, and therefore it just needs to be matched by color.

Hardware plays an important role. To ensure that the doors are kept closed, magnetic elements are installed. give decorative look the shelves are helped by a U-shaped aluminum or chrome profile, which is fixed on the front edge.

Door handles should be not only comfortable, but also beautiful. Their range is huge, and therefore it is necessary to choose taking into account the overall design (in color, size and shape). Finally, you can use plastic moldings that can give any surface an attractive look. In addition, it is desirable to cover the edges of the doors with decorative strips of plastic or metal. If it is necessary to fix the closed doors, you can install the latches of the type you like.

Useful video

An alternative implementation can be seen in the following video:

Conclusion

The locker in the toilet will help you take something small space, which is still unused. Its placement behind the toilet at the level of the cistern allows you to solve the problem of storing the necessary little things without creating inconvenience. You can make this simple furniture with your own hands, taking into account the characteristics of the room.

In contact with

In panel apartment buildings, with a ready-made sanitary cabin, divided into a bath and a bathroom, riser utilities, as well as water supply to the apartment, is located in the toilet behind the toilet. During construction, they are closed with an ugly cabinet with a door, which are often changed to decorative cabinets. One of the options for this decorative cabinet, closing the riser engineering communications and plumbing inlet to the apartment, a cabinet made of gypsum craton can become. If in the last article they built a drywall cabinet in the bathroom, here is how to make a closet in the toilet behind the toilet from drywall.

Working conditions

We have a toilet in panel house, about 800 mm wide. Behind the installed toilet, there is a cabinet with a chipboard door, painted or glued with PVC film.

The task is to replace the existing, unsightly cabinet with a cabinet in the toilet behind the toilet made of drywall with a hatch-door, for access to engineering communications. The hatch door is planned to be lined ceramic tiles along with the walls in the toilet.

measurements

For the correct purchase of materials, even before dismantling, it is necessary to carry out the following measurements:

• The width of the toilet from wall to wall, at the installation site of the cabinet;
• The height of the toilet from floor to ceiling;
• The height of the upper part of the toilet barrel, taking into account the height of the finished floor.

Drawing

On a piece of paper, draw a future wardrobe. In the figure, we indicate the door-hatch. The bottom of the hatch should not be lower than the height of the barrel in order to be able to open it. If the barrel is planned with a vertical drain mechanism, with a lever, you need to take into account the height of the drain handle.

Note: hatch door sizes are standard and can be viewed on any seller's website.

Together with the drawing of the cabinet, we will draw a diagram of the frame. The frame of the sanitary cabinet between the walls of the toilet is not complicated. Vertical racks near the walls and in the places where the hatch is installed. Horizontal posts on the ceiling and floor, as well as reinforcing posts on the bottom and top of the hatch installation. Around the hatch to be installed, a kind of frame of drywall profiles should form, and the profiles themselves need to be strengthened wooden beam, to be able to fix the hatch door.

materials

For this work, we need the following materials:

• Guide profile (PN);
• Wooden beam to strengthen the profile at the installation site of the hatch;
• Gypsum cardboard moisture resistant on the area of ​​a case 12 mm thick. To strengthen the structure, you can use two layers of drywall with a thickness of 10 mm;
• Self-tapping screws for drywall, self-tapping bugs, dowels and screws as needed;
• Sealing tape type Dichtungsband.

Tools

For this work, we need the following tool:

• Electric drill (or perforator);
• Scissors for metal or "grinder" for cutting a profile;
• Mounting knife for cutting drywall;
• Ruler metal;
• Construction level;
• A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.

Do-it-yourself closet in the toilet behind the drywall toilet: Stages of work

Stages of work include:

• Removing the toilet;
• Dismantling the old cabinet;
• Leveling the floor in the cabinet area (if required);
• Installation of the frame with the strengthening of the racks with a beam;
• Sheathing the frame with drywall;
• Installation of a hatch door;
• Sealing drywall joints, preparing for tile work.

Stages of work execution

Take off the toilet

Having previously turned off the water supply and drained the water from the barrel, the old toilet must be dismantled. He will interfere with work.

Dismantling the old cabinet

With the help of a crowbar, an ax and a nail puller, old wardrobe needs to be disassembled. Walls must be cleared of all structures.

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Leveling the floor in the closet area

If necessary, the floor in the installation area of ​​the new cabinet must be leveled. Construction debris must be removed, and the floor leveled with a leveler, it is semi-dry and will not leak to the neighbors. The leveling agent (semi-dry screed) dries for 3 days.

markup

The layout of the cabinet consists in applying profile fastening lines to the walls, floor and ceiling. Marking lines must be strictly vertical.

Fastening profiles (frame construction)

The framework from profiles is mounted according to all rules of installation of designs from gypsum cardboard. The profiles are attached to the walls, floor, ceiling with dowels and screws or dowel-nails. Profiles are connected with self-tapping bugs or a cutter. The reinforcement beam is inserted into the profiles and fixed with wood screws. If the hatch is large and heavy, it is better to make vertical bars from ceiling to floor.

Important! Between profiles and structures must be laid sealing tape Dichtungsband. The tape is glued to the outer shelf of the profile.

Hatch installation

Conclusion or Conclusions

The closet in the toilet behind the drywall toilet is tiled along with the walls.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

• aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible piping. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high occurrence of groundwater;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:

• top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m can grow on high beds vegetables and flowers of the same year;
• the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
• optimal groundwater depth for Agriculture- from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth it drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, a production building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved by the forced flow method. This task used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewer part and the act of testing the internal sewerage systems and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the object.

Visual inspection should be accompanied by entering into the act of testing internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulation of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.