Composition and structure of wool fibers. Varieties and features of woolen fabrics

Wool is a group of fabrics that are of natural origin, the source of which is animal hair. Woolen fabrics can be presented in pure form or with various additives, both synthetic and natural. The main task of this canvas is thermal insulation properties.

A bit of history

As soon as people were able to domesticate animals such as sheep and goats, they learned to use animal hair to produce woolen cloth. They knew how to use this raw material in the most ancient times, but then there were no scissors, and special combs were used instead. Archaeological excavations have shown that wool appeared and was actively used as early as 1500 BC. Historians also claim that wool fibers of wild goats were found in prehistoric caves in Georgia. This find dates back to 34,000 BC.

Back in the days ancient rome wool, like linen, were very much in demand and popular among all classes in Europe. Was especially popular wool, which was produced in Tarentum - because of the excellent properties due to the careful care of the animals.

An active wool trade began only in the Middle Ages, and from the 13th century, the economy of many countries depended on production, such as Italy and Benelux. After 100 years, Italy became the most developed in the direction of the manufacture of woolen linen. Soon woolen production began to gain momentum in England, and was quite an important aspect of the development of the country's economy. The first English wool factory was built in Winchester. In England, there were quite severe laws regarding the production of wool, smugglers were punished for some time by cutting off their hands.

Woolen fabrics were in great demand for quite some time, but as technological progress developed and new synthetic materials appeared, which were inferior in price and became more accessible, the demand for wool fell. In this regard, in 1966 wool production was reduced by 40%. In the 1970s there was new technology production of washing wool. In the manufacture of such wool, the fiber was processed so that wool products could be washed in machines. In 2009, the United Nations General Assembly proclaimed that year the year of natural fibers, which greatly increased the prestige and demand for natural wool fabrics.

About 270 thousand tons of sheep wool are produced annually in the world, with about a third of this amount coming from Australia, and the rest from the CIS countries, New Zealand, Argentina, South Africa, Uruguay, China, Turkey and USA .

Woolen fabrics made from a mixture of long and short fibers are soft (although they do not wrinkle), but do not retain sharp folds. Worsted wool fabrics, or combed wool fabrics, are made only from long fibres. They are smooth, strong, quite durable, but acquire gloss in the process. socks. First time redesigned wool gives, as a rule, stronger and more elastic textile than other types of wool.

Wool - animal hair (sheep, goats, camels, etc.). The bulk of the wool processed in the industry is sheep. Types of wool fibers: fluff(the most valuable thin, soft crimped fiber), transitional hair, awn (thicker, stiffer and less crimped than fluff, fiber) and "dead hair" (low-strength and hard). Wool is used to make yarn, fabrics, jersey, felt products, etc.

Types of elite wool

There are a large number of varieties of wool, but the most popular and significant group of elite types of wool.

So, at present, the elite group includes:

Cashmere(“royal yarn”) is a rather refined, chic and expensive material, which consists of threads with a thickness of only 13-19 microns, which is much thinner than a human hair. Delicate and soft material, looks quite expensive and beautiful, light and able to retain heat. Material that does not cause allergies. Cashmere is made from the undercoat of a highland goat, which belongs to the cashmere breed. The animal lives in Tibet and in the province of Kashmir, which is located between Pakistan and India. Besides, this breed goats are bred in New Zealand, Scotland and Australia. Raw cashmere consists of threads, only 13-19 microns thick (human hair -50 microns), so touching cashmere creates a feeling of splendor.

Cashmere is so delicate that any shade in which it is dyed looks as if through a light haze, very pleasing to the eye. To obtain fluff, the goat is not sheared, but combed out by hand once a year, in spring, during molting. At the same time, one goat brings only 100-200 grams of fluff, and for production coat 1.5-1.8 kg of cashmere fabric is consumed, that is, 15 animals. This is one of the reasons for the very high price of 100% cashmere products. Another reason for the popularity and high cost of cashmere is its exceptional softness, lightness, ability to retain heat and the absence of allergic reactions to it.

The popularity of cashmere is constantly growing. Today, customers choose cashmere as the best on the market. It may be expensive, but the exceptional comfort that it creates attracts more and more fans of this material around the world.

Alpaca is a type of wool that is made from wool alpaca(a kind of llama), which lives in the Peruvian Andes at an altitude of 4000 meters. The wool of this animal is very expensive, because alpaca- this is a rare animal, and it is sheared only once a year, receiving only 3.5 kg of wool from one animal. This type of wool is characterized by lightness and silkiness, it serves for quite a long time and retains its unique silkiness properties. It has high thermoregulating properties, durability, is resistant to pollution and does not cause allergies. Quite smooth and pleasant to the body material.

ALPACA is a type of llama. It lives in the Peruvian Andes at an altitude of 4000-5000m. in extreme conditions (bright sun, cold wind, sudden temperature changes). Alpaca is a rare animal wool, its expensive sheared alpacas, unlike sheep. once a year and receive only 3-3.5 kg of wool from one animal. has exceptional properties:

it is light, soft, uniform and silky, retaining a unique silky sheen throughout the life of the product; very warm (7 times warmer than sheep), with high thermoregulating properties (it is warm in the cold and not hot in the heat);
durable (3 times stronger than sheep), not subject to rolling, dumping and jamming;
resistant to pollution and does not cause allergic reactions;
unlike the scaly and therefore prickly fibers of sheep's wool, alpaca fibers are smooth and comfortable to the touch;
it has the largest range of natural colors (22 shades: from black, gray, burgundy, brown, cream to white).

No other type of wool has these qualities. All of these properties create a feeling of unique aesthetic and physical comfort for the owners of alpaca wool products.

Suri- This is a type of wool that has a special softness. It is produced from the wool of the animal suri (a type of alpaca), very valuable and expensive wool. Many years ago, this wool was used for tailoring only for royalty, a little later, for rich people. Two breeds of alpaca are known: HUAKAYA (HUAKAYA) and SURI (Suri).

Compared to Uakaya, Suri fleece consists of longer and thinner fibers (19-25 microns) - these are uniform and thick curls, straight along the entire length and slightly curled at the ends, they do not contain guard hairs that reduce the quality of the fleece.

Suri wool is distinguished by its special softness and grace. In the old days, it was used exclusively in the clothes of royalty.

Depending on the thickness of the fibers, alpaca fleece is sorted into five quality categories.

The highest quality is wool type "BABY" (20 microns). If the original fleece was Suri, then it is the best, rarest and most expensive alpaca wool, called "Baby Suri alpaca" - this is alpaca of the highest quality in the world.

Angora- this is a kind of wool, the material of which has a delicate pile, softness, but has a number of disadvantages, for example, the loose fixation of rabbit down in the yarn leads to rapid abrasion. Angora is produced from the down of angora rabbits, which are bred in China, USA and many European countries. Currently, there are five breeds of Angora rabbits: Satin, English, German, French and Giant breeds. Their difference is in color, size and length of downy fibers.

ANGORA - These are angora rabbits.

Once China in response to Turkey's overpricing of the sought-after Angora goat wool, he produced a softer and cheaper yarn called Angora. As it turned out, it was fluff wild rabbits called angora. Under these conditions, the Turks called the wool of Angora goats “mohair”, which in Arabic means “chosen one”. Subsequently, Angora rabbits began to be bred in Europe and the USA.

Angora rabbits are the most adorable of rabbits, reminiscent of a soft toy come to life. Currently, five breeds of Angora rabbits are industrially bred in the world: English, French, German, Giant and Satin. They differ in size and weight (2.5-5.5 kg), length of downy fibers, density of outer hair, color, volume of wool annually obtained (0.4-1.3 kg).

angora wool exceptionally soft, very warm and fluffy, with a characteristic gentle pile. Angora wool products create unique comfort and therefore are very popular and in demand. However, angora wool it also has its drawbacks: the unstable fixation of rabbit down in yarn can cause abrasion of the fabric; the need to protect the angora from excessive wetting and clean it only by chemical means. However, products made from high-quality angora can last more than one year.

Merino wool- This is a type of wool, the material from which is made using very thin threads 13.5-23 microns. It is characterized by excellent thermostatic properties, elasticity and does not cause allergic reactions. It is made from wool from the withers of a Merino sheep. This animal is common in Asian countries, Western Europe, North America and Australia.

Camel's wool- This is a type of wool that is produced from the downy undercoat of the Bactrian camel, which is common in Central and East Asia. Camel's wool has softness, silkiness, is also strong enough and elastic. This wool is characterized by resistance to pollution, has good thermoregulatory properties and the ability to self-clean. Besides, camel's wool does not cause allergies and has a beneficial effect on the skin, joints and blood vessels. They produce wool only in natural colors, since camel fluff cannot be treated with chemicals.

Mohair- This is a type of wool that is produced from the wool of angora goats that live in Turkey, the USA and South Africa. Mohair has strength, lightness and naturalness. Characterized by a silky sheen, durability and abrasion resistance. Mohair is divided into three types: the wool of a young goat up to 6 months old, the wool of a goat up to 2 years old and the wool of adult goats. natural mohair color white color but is easily stained. Products made from mohair require careful and delicate care and storage. It is not recommended to expose mohair products to high temperatures.

MOHAIR is the wool of Angora goats that live in Turkey (Angora province), South Africa and the USA. At the same time, more than 60% of the world's mohair is produced in South Africa.

Mohair is a luxurious natural fibre. It is one of the warmest and most durable natural materials, while being exceptionally light and silky. Its natural shine is stable and durable, it does not disappear after staining. No wool has such a magnificent long pile with a stable and durable natural sheen.

Mohair comes in three main types:

The wool of a young goat up to 6 months (Kid Mohair), obtained at the first haircut. This is a thin (23-27 microns) and soft fiber with a length of 100-150mm. Kid Mohair of the highest selected quality is called Super Kid - the finest and most delicate fiber, silky and luxurious to the touch.
Goat's wool up to 2 years (Goating Mohair), obtained after the second haircut. It is also soft and thin.
The wool of adult goats (Adult Mohair), it is thicker (30 microns) and coarser than the rest.

The first two types of mohair are used to make luxury yarn. Mohair from adult goats is used, in particular, in the production outerwear.

The wool of Angora goats is uniform and usually white, which is especially appreciated due to its ability to be easily dyed in any color: from soft pastels to the most juicy.

Dyed mohair looks bright and natural at the same time. Its natural luster does not disappear after dyeing, and the colors do not fade or fade for many years.

Mohair products require delicate storage and careful care. They should be hung on hangers to avoid wrinkling. high temperatures and dry at room temperature; clean only with a dry method, not forgetting that chemical treatment may shorten their service life.

Lama- This is a type of wool that is made from the wool of a llama, originally from Peru. It is characterized by softness, lightness, good thermal insulation properties and does not cause allergies and skin irritation. The natural colors of the llama are from white to dark brown, easily stained, but only with natural dyes.

LAMA (LAMA) - as well as Alpaca, originally from Peru. It has long been used as a beast of burden, so today there are llamas with both thin elastic hair and hard hair, which requires the selection of animals before shearing or combing.

Llama wool is a protein fiber that does not contain natural oils and lanolin. It has a complete warp structure and consists of two layers: an upper guard hair and an undercoat (down). The top hair is thick and does not curl. Its share is up to 20%. The undercoat is soft and luxurious with a thickness of 20-40 microns. It is used to make luxury clothing. With a full haircut, both layers are removed, and the coat is cleaned of protective hair. When combing, I get only undercoat. During processing, llama wool retains 90-93% of its original weight. The range of wool types and llama populations is very wide, which requires its selection for a specific type of product.

Llama wool is distinguished by its lightness and softness, the ability to perfectly retain heat (thermal capacity) and provide comfort in a wide range of temperatures (thermostaticity). It does not cause allergic reactions, is able to repel water and, unlike other types of wool, regulate its humidity in a range convenient for humans.

The llama's coat has an exceptional variety of natural shades, from white, ash pink, light brown, gray and silver to dark brown and black. White wool is well dyed. When painting, only natural paints are used.

Merino wool

MERINOS WOOL is wool taken from the withers of a Merino sheep. Merinos, a breed of fine-fleeced sheep, whose homeland is considered Western Asia. Subsequently, they spread to the countries of Western Europe, North America and Australia.

Today, only in Australia there are about 150 million merinos, while one sheep on average produces up to 15 kg of wool per year (other breeds of sheep 6-7 kg). The yield of pure wool is 35-45%.

Merino wool uniform and consists of very thin (13.5-23 microns) and soft downy fibers (for coarse-haired breeds 23-35 microns). It is long (the length of the coat of annual growth is 6-8 cm), white, warm, and has excellent thermostatic properties. Due to the natural curls, it is elastic. It is important that it does not irritate the skin.

Merino wool is more expensive than regular wool. The price of the best batches of this wool (14-16 microns) at annual auctions reached several thousand dollars per kilogram.

Camel hair (CAMEL) is a downy undercoat of a non-working two-humped camel (Bactrian), living in Central and East Asia. The most valuable is the Mongolian Bactrian wool.

The coat of a camel consists of an outer coarse hair (25-100 microns) and an inner soft down (17-21 microns), which makes up 80-85% of the volume. It is he who is called " camel's wool". Once a year it is collected (or combed out) in the amount of 4-9 kg per camel, sorted by color and composition, after which the thinnest and softest fluff sent to the production of fabrics. For the manufacture of high-quality fabrics, the lightest and thinnest fluff young camels (up to a year).

Camel's wool light (twice lighter than sheep), soft and silky, but at the same time, the most durable and elastic. It is practical to wear, stain resistant and self-cleaning. It is the warmest and at the same time an excellent heat insulator that maintains a constant body temperature in various conditions. It protects well from moisture, and is also able to absorb and quickly evaporate it, leaving the body dry. In clothes made of camel hair, you will never sweat. In addition, it does not cause allergies and is able to relieve static stress.

Camel wool has unique healing and healing properties. Since ancient times, it has served as a cure for many diseases (more than 40). Its dry heat and the organic matter have a beneficial effect on the skin, muscles and joints, improve blood circulation, promote vasodilation, activate metabolism and regenerative processes in tissues. Colds, osteochondrosis, sciatica, rheumatism, overweight - this is only a small part of the ailments from which it can protect and relieve

Popular wool fabrics and their applications

Currently, there are many woolen fabrics, both pure and with impurities. Wool fabrics have a variety of uses, depending on the density of the fabric, weave and even color. The most commonly used fabrics are:

Properties and care of wool

Woolen fabrics have the following characteristics: practically do not wrinkle, get dirty a little, and are quite elastic. In addition, woolen fabrics are resistant to wear and abrasion, perfectly absorb water and steam. Natural wool without synthetic impurities does not burn, but smolders, it is considered a light and versatile material.

Woolen fabric is easy to smooth out - it is enough to hang a wool product in a room with high humidity. However, woolen fabrics tend to pile fibers, so they must be washed using special detergents at a water temperature of no more than 300C. Woolen fabrics are not recommended to be rubbed and twisted, but must be dried on a flat surface, avoiding direct sunlight and the action of thermal appliances. It is necessary to iron products made of wool with a moisturizing function.

How to care for woolen things?

Woolen things cannot be washed in hot water, since from this they will quickly lose their shape, the wool falls off. Ideally, the temperature of the water for washing should not be higher than 30 degrees. For washing, use detergents intended for wool products, do not use chlorine bleach and other aggressive detergents. Add conditioner to the water - it will make the wool softer.

It is undesirable to soak woolen items before washing, if there is no urgent need for this, and indeed, the less such a product spends in water, the better. It is better to use soft water for washing, so if you can soften the ph level of the water, then by all means do it. drastically replace hot water cold both during the washing itself and during rinsing, it is impossible. This can lead to the fact that the thing can strongly "sit down".

Drying, ironing and storage

After washing, wool products are not strongly wrung out or twisted, as this can lead to their deformation. For the same reason, woolen clothes should not be dried by hanging on a rope, as there is a risk that they will stretch a lot. Dry wool in a horizontal position on a towel or sheet. In this case, the thing will not lose its shape. Also, do not dry woolen products under direct sunbeams.

You can iron woolen things, but only through a layer of gauze, if the iron is normal. If the iron is steam, then iron in a special mode " wool» with the addition of steam. However, you should not get too carried away with ironing, try to do it as little as possible.

You need to store woolen things in places where there are no moths. Periodically, wool must be aired so that it does not stale. You can not constantly store such clothes on a hanger, as they can stretch out and lose their shape. It is better to store it in a chest of drawers in a folded state in plastic bags. Remember that if you take care of woolen things correctly, they will not lose their attractiveness for a long time. appearance, and from them socks you will receive only positive emotions.

Wool is the cut hair of animals: sheep, camels, goats, cows, rabbits and others. When shearing sheep, the wool is removed in a continuous layer (fleece). However, the fleece is not uniform in quality. The wool of the highest quality is on the shoulder blades, back, belly, somewhat coarser on the sides and even coarser on the back and legs. The quality of the wool depends on the time of shearing the sheep. Spring wool is softer, because. it has more fluff - the most valuable fiber, and such wool is much cleaner, which produces less waste. in wool autumn haircut There is almost no fluff, so the fibers are hard.

The wool is sorted by hand. The fleece is folded on special tables, divided into separate parts and according to certain standards, taking into account the quality of the raw materials, wool is selected in certain batches.

In the structure of wool fiber, there are root And kernel. Root - This is the part of the hair that is hidden by the skin. Kernel- this is the part of the hair that protrudes above the skin and consists of protein - keratin. The hair shaft consists of three layers: scaly, cortical And core.

scaly layer (cuticle) consists of horn-shaped scales covering the body of the hair. Scales can be in the form of rings, half rings, plates. This layer protects the body of the hair from destruction, affects the shine of the hair and its ability to felt.

Cortical layer consists of spindle-shaped cells that form the body of the hair and is the main layer that determines its strength, elasticity and other qualities.

core layer located in the middle of the fiber and consists of cells filled with air.

Depending on the thickness and structure, 5 types are distinguished:

fluff- thin crimped fibers consisting of two layers - scaly and cortical. Down forms the entire hairline of fine-fleeced sheep and the covering of coarse-wooled sheep adjacent to the skin. The scaly layer is shaped like rings or semi-rings;

awn- coarse fiber, thicker than fluff and has almost no crimp. Consists of lamellar scales, cortical and continuous core. The hairline of semi-coarse-wooled and coarse-wooled sheep consists of an awn.

transitional hair- located between down and awn. The entire hairline may consist of transitional hair. Forms 3 layers - scaly, cortical and intermittent core.

dead hair- a coarse, hard fiber that is poorly dyed and breaks during processing. It consists of 3 layers - scaly, thin cortical and wide core, occupying almost the entire diameter of the fiber.

fleece- this is the wool taken from the sheep, it is a single cover.

Wool is divided into the following types:

thin wool (up to 25 microns), consists of downy fibers; obtained from fine-wool sheep and used to produce high-quality woolen and cloth fabrics;

semi thin wool (25-34 microns), consists of downy fibers and transitional hair; used for the production of kaleval, costume and coat fabrics;

semi rough wool (35-40 microns), consists of an awn and a transitional hair; used for the production of semi-coarse cloth, suit and coat fabrics;

rough wool (more than 40 microns); has all types of fibers; used for the manufacture of coarsely clothed fabrics.

Length. From 20 to 450 mm. It is divided into short-staple, up to 55 mm and long-staple wool over 55 mm.

crimp. It is characterized by the number of twists per 1 cm of fiber. The thinner the fiber, the greater the number of coils per 1 cm of its length. There are wool of normal, high and gentle crimp.

Thickness (thinness). Depends on fiber type. Down thickness up to 30 microns, awns 50-90 microns, dead hair 50-100 microns or more.

Strength. Depends on thickness and structure. The relative breaking load of the fibers is 10.8-13.5 s N/tex.

The elongation of dry fibers at break is 40%. A significant proportion (up to 70%) of the total elongation is elastic and highly elastic deformations, due to which woolen products do not crumple a little and retain their shape.

The color of the wool of fine-fleeced sheep is white, slightly cream. Coarse and semi-coarse wool is colored - gray, red, black.

Shine depends on the size and shape of the scales. Large, give wool a cambole sheen. Small, increase the haze of the fiber.

Felting — this is the ability of wool to form a felt-like covering during the felling process. The felting fabric is thin, elastic, thanks to the strongly crimped wool.

Wool is resistant to all organic solvents, used in dry cleaning.

Amphoteric properties

Enters into interaction with acids, and co alkalis. When boiled, wool dissolves in a solution of caustic soda (2%). Under the action of concentrated nitric acid it turns yellow, under the action of concentrated sulfuric acid it chars. It loses strength at a temperature of 130 degrees.

Wool resistance to light weather much higher than that of plant fibers. When exposed to direct sunlight for 1120 hours, the strength of the fibers decreases by 50%.

At burning wool in the flame, the fibers are sintered, when the fibers are taken out of the flame, their burning stops, a sintered black ball forms at the end, the smell of a burnt feather is felt.

Different types of wool are used with other fibers and used to make outerwear and knitwear.

What fabric is used to make uniforms for the Ministry of Defense and the Ministry of Internal Affairs Russian Federation? What do employees of JSC Russian railways"? What material are suits and school uniforms made of? How is wool yarn made? How is wool fabric woven?

The answers to these questions will be given to us by the Bryansk Worsted Plant, which specializes in the production of worsted fabrics.

Worsted spinning (from German kammwolle - combed, combed wool) - combed spinning of wool. In their production, structure and appearance, worsted fabrics differ significantly from cloth ones. Worsted fabrics are made from long, slightly crimped wool, subjected to combing during spinning. Worsted yarn is much thinner than cloth yarn, it is not fluffy and is usually used twisted in two ends. The surface of worsted fabrics, unlike cloth ones, is open, completely smooth or slightly fleecy, and the interweaving of threads shows through in relief on the surface of the material, there is no felt-like layer from the roll, as was the case with felts and drapes. According to the raw material composition, worsted fabrics can be pure woolen, semi-woolen, when cotton yarn is used along with wool, and mixed, when other fibers are added to the wool during the mixture (usually short-fiber rayon).

Worsted production (production of woolen fabrics) begins with the preparation of raw materials. Raw materials are delivered to the plant in bales.

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The wool in the bales is already washed and cleaned.

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Sorters need to manually sort the bales of wool and prevent defective wool from entering the production process.

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This is a reminder for sorters. This wool is set aside.

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This is what the costume looks like :)

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Loose-cleaning machine. The wool in it literally flies in shreds!

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We dismantle the production of half-woolen fabrics. For their production, we need not only wool, but also synthetic fiber. For example, lavsan. The sorters also sort the bales of synthetic fiber and load it into another opener.

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The loosened and cleaned raw materials (wool and synthetic fiber) are fed through pipes to the neighboring workshop.

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Now is the time to comb through the wool on the card, getting rid of fibers less than five centimeters long and dirt. We also untangle the wool fibers and distribute them into parallel strands.

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Don't be scared. In the photo we comb the synthetic fiber.

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Combed parallel fibers in the form of a skein of loose tape - tops of the first carding.

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next stage of production. Tops of the first carding are again combed and compacted. We get a skein of tops of the second carding.

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In the production of woolen yarn, special conditions must be created. Humidity should be 75-90%. Ceiling-mounted sprinklers create required level air humidity.

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Tops of the second carding is ready.

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Ready tops.

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Well. Wool fibers are combed, cleaned of dirt, laid in parallel strands and compacted. Go ahead.

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We comb the wool fibers again, free from the remnants of pollution and compact even more.

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Almost twice the compacted fiber is laid in circles in large cylindrical containers.

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The original wool is light, but for the production of multi-colored wool yarn, we need wool different colors. In the next step, we dye, wash and dry the wool and synthetic fibers.

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Dyed woolen or synthetic fibers go to the roving machine, where they are combed again and placed in a thin and even denser tape - the roving. It is at this stage that wool and synthetic fibers meet, which up to this point have followed different paths.

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Skein of roving.

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Another roving machine, but works with fibers of a different color.

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Roving, which will then go to the spinning machine.

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A spinning machine on which the roving is stretched and tightly twisted. This is how woolen thread is born. Woolen thread (woolen yarn) is wound on a spool.

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Spinning machine operator.

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These are spools of wool yarn.

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Steaming installation with a steaming chamber. In this thing, the yarn is steamed on spools so that it does not twist when rewinding onto bobbins.

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Rewinding machine. Rewinds wool yarn from spool to bobbins.

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Temporary warehouse.

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If you look at the surface of the fabric from the front side in a magnifying glass, you can see how the individual threads running along the piece - the warp - are intertwined with the threads of the transverse direction - the weft. The warp threads run parallel to each other along the entire piece of fabric. Therefore, before the main yarn enters the loom, it is necessary to lay its long threads in rows. To do this, they are wound in parallel on a common roller - a beam. At the same time, the warp threads must be strongly stretched so that during the weaving process they are tightly intertwined with the weft threads. They do it on a warping machine.

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Weaving machines. The air needs to be humidified.

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A site for finishing production of worsted fabrics. Fabric dyeing, drying, decathing, etc. are carried out here.

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In the far corners of the plant, one can observe such a picture.

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Merchandising shop. The finished fabric is carefully checked for tears and foreign inclusions. Breaks are darned, inclusions are removed.

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Who worked?
Who is tired?
Dinner time has come!

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The Bryansk Worsted Combine supplies fabric for sewing uniforms for ministries and departments. The competition for the supply is held 2 times a year and the contract for the supply of fabric is concluded for only six months. The management of the plant is concerned about such a short term of the contract and wants to increase it to three years. With an increase in the term of the contract for the supply of fabrics, the management of the plant believes that it will be possible to confidently predict further development plant, expansion and renewal of machine tools and staff training, expansion of production.

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And here are samples of uniforms made from the fabric of the Bryansk worsted plant.

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Samples of school uniforms.

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We leave the plant.

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This is how we got acquainted with the worsted production at the Bryansk worsted factory.

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Reading time: 7 minutes

Natural wool is animal hair collected for processing and exploitation. Mostly woolen fabric is made from sheep. Camels, goats, llamas, rabbits are also used. Wool consists mainly of keratin protein, which contains a lot of sulfur.

To obtain fluff, animals are combed out, to obtain wool, they are sheared. After harvesting, it is cleaned and sorted.

Yarn is made from it, which is converted into natural fabrics or with the addition of synthetics. It is used for the manufacture of felted and felt products.

Varieties of wool

According to the method of extraction, it is divided into three types:

“live” is sheared from living animals;
"dead" is collected from the skins of animals in slaughterhouses, its quality is worse;
recovered is obtained by splitting pieces of yarn, woolen shreds.

Fiber types:

fluff is the softest, thinnest, tender and valuable part;
transitional hair - less crimped, like fluff, harder and thicker;
dead hair - hard, fragile.

Origin of fiber

Types depending on the animal:

camel wool obtained from the undercoat of a two-humped non-working camel. It is combed out once a year. From one individual you can collect from 4 to 9 kg. This material is lighter than sheep's, it retains body temperature better than others. Quickly absorbs and evaporates moisture. It cannot be dyed, so it is produced in only 14 shades. Such clothes help in the treatment of many diseases.
Llama wool can only be obtained in Peru. Previously, this animal was a pack animal, and now the quality of vegetation is different for everyone. Only llamas with soft hair are selected for cutting and combing. Down is used to make luxury fabrics, hair is also used.
Alpaca is a rare Peruvian llama. They cut it once a year and get no more than 3.5 kg of wool. Therefore, it is very expensive. Durable and warm, resistant to dirt. There are 22 natural shades of this material.

Types of woolen fabrics

Different woolen fabrics differ from each other in density, processing method, composition.

In general, they can be divided into three subgroups:

Rough cloth fabrics are very coarse, heavy, thick and dense. Mostly they make coats and jackets in country style.
Fine-wool are designed for the manufacture of light coats, jackets, suits. They are not very dense.
Worsted smooth and thin. Scope - for the most part suits.

Depending on the purpose, various woolen cloths are used.

For business suits

Demanded fabrics for the production of women's and men's suits:

A single-ply, plain weave cloth with a matte finish. It is made from thin, semi-thin or semi-coarse fibers.
- the most soft variety. From thin hardware yarn, a loose structure and a relief surface are obtained.
used for the production of jackets with twill weave. It is smooth dyed. No diagonal rib.

For coat

What are women's and men's coats made of:

Made from merino wool with a twill weave. Dense, rigid, wear-resistant, water-repellent monophonic material. Doesn't wrinkle. Suitable for light coats.
make a complex weave with the addition of synthetic threads. Warm fabric with a fluffy face. The loose structure contributes to the appearance of pollution. Puffs are formed and threads come out in the area of frequent friction.
with a clear pile, dense and heavy. It retains heat well and does not let air through. Man-made fibers are often added for strength and to reduce static.
Cashmere is an expensive fabric, sometimes natural fibers are mixed with artificial ones. It is obtained from a twill weave of the finest fibers.

Baby clothes

So that rough materials do not injure the delicate skin of the child, two soft kind:

Thin woolen has a fleece on both sides. Poorly keeps its shape, but warm and comfortable, breathable.
– wool jersey, soft and comfortable. Elastic and almost does not wrinkle.

Other options

What other fabrics are there?

How to determine the naturalness of wool

Three simple ways:

Take a piece of thread and set it on fire. Natural fiber flares quickly and burns slowly. When it goes out, the smell of singed hair will be felt, and the burnt thread is easily rubbed into dust. A material containing artificial fibers will leave behind a polymer droplet.
A piece of fabric needs to be wrinkled and listen to your feelings. Synthetic fiber glides and makes a grinding sound, which can even cause unpleasant goosebumps. In the process appears static electricity crackling is heard. Small flashes are visible in the dark. If you knead a natural canvas, then the skin will only tingle a little.
Take a close look at the yarn. Real wool is branched, it has an uneven structure. Artificial textiles or with impurities look smoother, the finest hairs do not climb out. Therefore, synthetic material is not as scratchy and softer than natural.

Ingredients must be listed on the label. If a thing is made of expensive material, such as angora or cashmere, you should ask for a certificate for the product before buying.

Proper Care

Wash from the wrong side so that the shape of the product is preserved and spools do not form. The optimum water temperature is 30 degrees, otherwise the thing shrinks.

For washing, special liquid products or regular shampoo are used. Children's is suitable for very delicate things.
Any stains are removed before washing. Most can be removed with alcohol. dish detergent, ordinary dirt - with a clothes brush.
Do not soak woolen items. The washing process should not take more than 45 minutes from the moment of immersion in water.
Woolen textiles can be washed a couple of times a year. Stains are removed separately, the smells from such clothes quickly evaporate. It is enough to hang it on the balcony.

Drying process: roll the clothes into a tube, put on a light towel and unfold. It is necessary to immediately give the correct form.
The shrunken thing should be slightly moistened with water and ironed from the inside through cheesecloth. In the process, the fabric is stretched to give the desired shape. Read the recommendations:.
The spools cannot be torn off manually; for this, special machines or scallops are used.
Woolen products are stored folded on the shelf. They will stretch on the shoulders.

Handwash

Correct actions:

Pour cool water into the basin up to 30 degrees.
Dissolve detergent in it. It should be designed for hand washing, preferably liquid. On the packaging there are images of woolen balls.
Dip the item in the basin and wait a few seconds until it is saturated with water. Gently move it in different directions several times. You can not rub - from this spools are formed.
When the water changes color, it can be poured out. You can repeat if necessary, but more often than not, once is enough.
Fill the sink with water of the same temperature that was used for washing. Rinse the product with gentle movements. Detergent must be removed completely, so rinse usually twice.
Drain the water and lift the clothes in a ball. Carefully squeeze out some of the water and wrap in a thick towel. It will absorb most of the water.

Various things are made from wool: outer and casual clothes, shoes, hats and accessories, upholstery for furniture. Woolen clothes can be both business office and cozy home. At good care the product will last a long time and will not lose its shape and properties.

Mankind had to master the technology of obtaining yarn and linen from animal hair out of necessity. At the same time, the relevance of woolen things does not decrease, because it is the warmest and at the same time natural material. The areas of application of woolen yarn and fabrics are diverse, and it is important to know the markings and features of a particular material in order to correctly adjust its use and further care for the finished product. In the article, consider the main types of wool.

What are the types of wool and their characteristics

Wool is called the fibers of the cover, sheared or combed from specially grown animals. In this form, it is a raw material that must go through several stages of processing before it can be used for tailoring, creating home textiles. Wool fibers have unique characteristics, which differ significantly from each other. This factor is influenced by the type of animals from which it was obtained. raw material, method of "extraction", further processing. Find out about the characteristics of twill fabric.

Fiber types

In production, sheared wool of sheep and other animals is most often used. This is rational and economically justified, because it is possible to collect such a “harvest” every year. At the same time, hair combing is becoming a common practice, especially in rare and exotic animals. Such fibers are extremely soft and thin, which only increases the value of the material.

What types of wool fibers exist:

Transitional or axial hair. Differs in thick and rigid structure, as a rule, equal, long.
fluff, which creates an additional undercoat, thin and curly hair that retains heat and is responsible for breathability.
Dead hair. Obtained from slaughterhouses as a by-product of slaughtering animals. According to its characteristics, it is significantly inferior to the “live” one (fragile, hard), therefore its value is several times lower.

The most budgetary and popular raw material option is sheep wool. Depending on the region of residence, diet, conditions of keeping and type of these animals, wool has a different structure and value. Read on to see how the texture and density of the footer fabric looks like.

By origin (depending on the animal) - types of wool fibers for knitting

The largest volume of wool is obtained by growing sheep. The largest supplier of sheep's wool is Australia, where more than a third of the world's industrial volume of this raw material is produced. During the development of animal husbandry, many species have appeared that are specially grown to obtain high-quality thin fleece. The shearing process is a real art, because further marking and application (according to cost) depend on many factors.

In particular, the fleece of the best quality is cut only on the sides and withers of the animal. One of the most valuable species is the wool of the first shearing of lambs.

Wool is also obtained from goats, camels, llamas and other animals. Fibers are classified into "live" and "dead", depending on how they get. The quality of finished fabrics and yarns directly depends on the type of animals, the structure of wool and further processing.

The creation of yarn can occur by recovery from the remnants of production. According to its characteristics, it is much inferior to natural, therefore, it is most often mixed with synthetic fibers. Modern trends- recycling of old things for the manufacture of new fabrics with a certain content of wool in the composition.

After shearing, the fibers are sorted, cleaned and aligned. The processing process also includes dyeing (if necessary), the addition of synthetic materials, the formation of yarn. It is from it that all fabrics are subsequently obtained, but also in the form of skeins of threads, wool has found its application in the creation of industrial or home products. Woolen knitwear is always attractive and modern, indispensable in bad weather. winter time. It is believed that unique chemical compounds in the structure of wool hairs have healing power, can save a person from many diseases. Which insulation is better for winter clothes will tell.

Types of wool fibers for knitting:

Cashmere. The raw material for this yarn is the wool of goats, which are found in the highlands. Unlike sheep, the wool of cashmere goats is combed out, getting the most delicate and light fluff. The fibers perfectly retain heat, are soft, light weight. Products are practically weightless, but with careful care they will last more than one year. Cashmere yarn is used to make women's or men's clothing, coats, hats, scarves.
Angora. The threads are made from the down of the angora rabbit. Animals are also combed out, and only representatives of this rather rare breed. The delicate structure does not allow the use of yarn without additional “strengthening”, therefore, mixed fibers or half-woolen (with the addition of synthetic materials) are most often found on sale. One hundred percent angora needs only special care, dry cleaning, minimal mechanical friction.
Mohair. The yarn is obtained by processing the wool of the angora goat. It is extremely thin and soft, has an uneven thickness, and is easily dyed. The finished product made of mohair is very warm, it requires careful care in further wear. Relatively short service life is a critical drawback of this material.
Merino wool. Merino sheep are specially bred by selection, they have the longest, thickest wool with fine down. Haircut is carried out with strict observance of technology. An expensive high-quality fleece is obtained by removing the hair on the nape of the animal. One of the biggest advantages of products such as is considered to be a soft structure, so the surface does not prick or irritate the skin.
Tibetan yak is considered one of the rarest "suppliers" of woolen raw materials. These animals were destroyed for a long time, the situation improved a little, but not the final victory. The fibers of the Tibetan yak wool are distinguished by amazing strength, while being long and soft, they regulate the heat transfer function well.
Camel's wool retains heat well and at the same time provides good air exchange. These materials are not made for children's or delicate things due to the rather prickly structure of the threads. At the same time, camel fleece is much lighter than sheep's, has a unique ability to heat transfer, additional medicinal properties. The wool of specially grown breeds of camels is used, a haircut is also carried out once a year. Used for tailoring.
Llama wool considered one of the rarest and most expensive. The fibers are hypoallergenic, durable, natural colors pleasant tones. In the process of wearing, the canvas does not roll, does not shed, does not fall off. In addition to the high cost, such products also have another important drawback. Due to the threat of complete extermination of these animals, there is always a risk of purchasing products for the production of which individual individuals were killed. The fight against poachers does not stop, most companies in this business have refused to work with unverified suppliers.
Alpaca. Animals are close "relatives" of the llama, so wool fibers have similar characteristics. The main difference is the high price due to the low prevalence of this subspecies.

Alpaca shearing takes place once a year, the fibers are carefully sorted, calibrated, and delivered to weaving factories.

Woolen yarn is characterized by good hygroscopicity, perfectly retains heat and does not interfere with air circulation. Things made from such yarn retain their original appearance for a long time, but are demanding to care for. It is necessary to wash products at a temperature not exceeding 30 degrees, using the minimum spin speed. It is best to dry woolen clothes in a horizontal position, carefully straightening them on a flat surface.

The most expensive and rare variety is vicuña wool. The price per kilogram can reach $ 850 (for comparison, cashmere is "only" $ 80). These animals were on the verge of extinction, mainly due to the valuable qualities of wool. Now their population, growing conditions, frequency of wool shearing is regulated at the legislative level. Without proper accompanying documents confirming the legitimacy of obtaining a fleece, not a single conscientious manufacturer will purchase a batch. It is noteworthy that the collected raw materials are sorted by hand, after which about 25% of the fibers of the original volume go into production.

Types of woolen fabrics

The matter obtained from woolen fibers has a different structure and density. Depending on this, its purpose is determined. Outerwear, dresses, sweaters, blouses, jackets are made from woolen fabric. Thanks to good heat retention and air access, it is from woolen and half-woolen materials that sportswear and thermal underwear are sewn.

Varieties of woolen fabrics:

Coarse cloths have a spiky surface, obtained by creating a rigid weave of threads. Most often, such canvases are used for sewing outerwear and uniforms.
Fine-woven fabrics can be recognized by their porous and loose structure. Main plus - good preservation warmth and light weight, which provides numerous options for use.
Worsted or combed linen. They have a pronounced "pattern" of intertwining threads.

Worsted fabrics are used for the manufacture of dresses, suits, blouses; for outerwear, the use is impractical.

Now it is extremely difficult to find a completely woolen fabric. Natural fibers wear out quickly, products lose their original shape. This can be avoided by adding synthetic fibers to the yarn, which increases its strength and performance.

Sheep wool has numerous classifications according to certain parameters. The age of the animal is taken into account (the first haircut gives the finest fibers), the method of cultivation, cleanliness (percentage of dirt or impurities), many additional factors. To the uninitiated, these data will explain little, especially in the final "product" even the most expensive raw materials have undergone some processing.

For business suits

The range of woolen items is not limited to outerwear and sweaters. Excellent business suits are made from this material, which, with proper care, will look flawless for many years.

Classification of wool suit fabrics:

Single layer cloth. The canvas consists of thin, semi-thin or semi-coarse fibers, has a matte surface.
. The relief surface is loose, soft, but retains its shape well. Products can be distinguished by their characteristic texture, uneven color. The classification includes a division into types according to weaving, many of which are named extremely original (“chicken foot”, “herringbone”, “dog fang” and others).
Cheviot. It is obtained from the wool of Scottish sheep. The dense and rigid structure somewhat limits the scope. The main difference of the canvas is the absence of a diagonal scar on the surface. A striking example is the famous British suits and jackets.

Such fabrics are popular when sewing women's or men's suits. A separate, actively developing industry for the use of such fabrics is the production of heat-saving sports equipment - the so-called thermal underwear. The main advantages of these things are light weight, good heat retention and moisture removal to the outside. This provides comfort during training, active pastime. When worn, such products retain all the advantages of natural fabric, but require careful care, special chemicals for washing. If these conditions are not met, the product will quickly become unusable, so this moment is extremely important.

Cheviot fabric is used when sewing jackets with a twill weave.

For coat

Coat fabric has a dense structure, holds its shape well, and is extremely wear-resistant. The main disadvantage is the rapid absorption of moisture, after which the heat saving indicators decrease, air exchange decreases. This can be avoided with proper wear, proper care of the state of things. In particular, it is undesirable to expose the product to strong mechanical stress, to dry only in a straightened form away from direct sources of heat. Woolen coats usually last well for many years, so it's worth taking a closer look at this option.

Resistant and durable coat fabric:

Gabardine. In production, the twill weave method is used. The canvas is extremely durable, hardly wearable, practically does not wrinkle. Scope - light types of outerwear.
Boucle. Threads usually contain synthetic fibers. A complex weave forms a pile on the front, which makes it difficult to remove dirt when worn for a long time. The structure of the material is quite loose, puffs can form on the surface.
Drap. Dense heavy fabric with a fleecy surface. Practically does not pass air, retains heat well. Relatively inexpensive and extremely durable canvas.

Cashmere fabric for coats is also on sale, which is obtained by twill weaving thin, light threads of cashmere yarn. Such a material is extremely wear-resistant, especially with the addition of some synthetics, but has a high price. At the same time, it is not recommended to wash or remove dirt on the surface yourself. To do this, you will have to contact the dry cleaner, be sure to warn the performers about the composition of the fabric and possible consequences mishandling. Find out what bamboo fiber looks like and what it is used for.

To enhance performance, synthetic fibers are often added to the drape composition.

Baby clothes

When creating children's clothes, wool fibers are not used so often due to possible allergies. Also, many woolen fabrics have a rough structure, which is unacceptable for contact with the sensitive skin of a child.

The following fabrics are excluded:

Flannel. Soft, thin fabric, brushed on both sides. Poorly retains its shape, but at the same time it keeps heat well, is comfortable to the touch, and provides good air exchange. In the production of flannel, woolen or cotton fibers are used.
. Soft practical knitted fabric has good elasticity, does not wrinkle, does not lose its appearance after numerous washes.

The wool of rare animals such as llama or vicuña is also great for the production of children's clothing. They are very light, thin, retain heat without an air barrier. The main obstacle is the high price, so finding options is very difficult. Find out about the composition and density of the linon material.

Other types of woolen fabrics

Depending on the type of wool fibers, their physical characteristics (thickness, density), the processing of raw materials makes it possible to obtain fabrics that are completely different in structure. The production process may include knitting the fabric (usually with the addition of synthetics for better elasticity), pressing, as well as forming a pile on one or two sides on the surface.

What fabrics are also made from wool fibers:

Felt. Coarse felted wool, often used in the manufacture of shoes, as well as technical material. The main difference is that the raw materials are dumped and pressed, so the structure is homogeneous, without weaving or separate threads.
Felt. Felt rabbit wool is used as raw material, it belongs to a variety of felt material. Applications are extremely diverse: from hats to soft toys.
Bike. Warm fabric brushed on one side. Often used in the manufacture of blankets and blankets, demi-season outerwear.
Plaid. Suit fabric with a characteristic checkered pattern. Applications: women's or men's suits, shirts, dresses.
Velours. The velvety surface of the fabric makes it very comfortable and comfortable. Velor is used in light industry when sewing men's and women's clothing, plaids, facing of a car.
Gunny. It is distinguished by a characteristic coarse weave of thick threads.

The matting material is suitable for tailoring, lining the interior of a car, as a furniture fabric.

It is very difficult to list all the varieties and applications of wool fibers. So-called mixed fabrics may include a certain proportion of wool, but are classified in a completely different way. Adding synthetics is not always a bad thing, because the fabric gets additional characteristics, increases its wear resistance, elasticity, strength.

The labeling of woolen fabrics often includes a measure of the density of the material. According to the international classification up to 80 s, the most durable and coarse fabrics are classified. Up to 100s can also be looked after a budget option for tailoring outerwear or casual suits. From 110s to 130s, the fabric features good workmanship, pleasant to the touch, almost no wrinkling. The parameter of 150 - 180 s refers to delicate fabrics, thin, easily wrinkled. Canvases labeled 200 s and above are elite and expensive, but extremely impractical. Suits made from such a fabric look beautiful, but they wrinkle, shine even after a short wear.

Woolen clothes, blankets and other things necessary in everyday life are natural and good for our health. The process of obtaining these benefits of civilization is extremely long, the final characteristics of products, service life and quality are influenced by many factors, including the type of fibers, the method of obtaining and further processing of raw materials. Sheep wool is most often used in production, but there are completely unique species, for example, llamas, alpacas or vicuñas, the cost of which is extremely high. The main varieties of wool fibers and fabrics, as well as the features of the production and use of these materials, are discussed in the above review.

Video

About the types of wool, see this video:

conclusions

The main advantages of wool fibers and: hygroscopicity, heat retention, air circulation. This provides a wide range of applications, in particular in clothing or home textiles.
Raw materials for the manufacture of wool fibers (fabric, yarn) are obtained by shearing or combing specially bred animals. The wool of dead animals is significantly inferior in quality, but is also used in production.
You can improve the performance of woolen fabrics by adding synthetic fibers. So the matter will become stronger, will be less demanding in care.
Depending on the type of wool, weaves, additional processing, there is a classification of the finished fabric, the scope of application, the quality of the fabric is determined. Fabric labeling includes not only the type of raw material, but also its purity, processing method, and the content of impurities.
As a rule, one hundred percent wool is not practical and quickly loses its original appearance even with careful care. This can be avoided by adding a certain proportion of synthetic fibers. In particular, this makes it possible to produce wool knitwear, which is extremely in demand in the light industry.