Decorative barrel do it yourself. How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands - step by step instructions and drawings. Give the sizes of rivet

People engaged in the production of own wines, or even by the pickling of cucumbers, know perfectly - there is no better packaging than a wooden barrel. Why? Firstly, the tree is an environmentally friendly material, secondly, wines contain alcohol, it means that interacting with synthetic materials - plastic or a bonron, it can dissolve chemical composition Tara and it mixes with wine components.

The process of producing oak barrel is not complicated, but it requires a clear compliance with the instructions, accuracy and attentiveness.

Buy barrel is not a problem, however, if there is a desire and owner of the home wine factory, it is preparing for quality, then the wooden barrel will be the main proof that wine and brandy are made using the right technology. In addition, the manufacture of wooden barrels is the process of time consuming and long, but without wisdom.

Stages of work

Oak, ash and cherry are considered the most suitable trees To produce from them barrels.

It is well known that the most reliable material for the manufacture of wooden barrels will be oak. It will suit both for wines and cognacs and for the soles. Oak - Natural Antiseptic, Zaku and mold there will not arise. But if this is a problem, you can change the oak of the cherry or ash - in these trees there is a blue acid, which will also not develop pathogenic organisms, although their properties are weaker than oak. It does not need to be afraid that the acid will fall into the products: first, the barrel is carefully soaked in front of the filling of wines, and secondly, some percentage of blue acid is contained in the wines itself, it is not dangerous.

Wood calculation. The boards wearing the name of the riveting have bicon-like sides to give a coolery of the bulge. To make them, you need to take the lower part of the tree trunk and split the cutting of firewood. If it is gently cut, then the natural integrity of the fibers will break, which is bad for such a product. Immediately proceed to figure drinking, it is not worthwhile - the lamps need to dry for 2 months. And dry not under the scorching sun, but in a dark cool room.

Maintenance treatment for future barrels is done using a planer. Giving them the right shape, top and bottom need to be thicker than the middle. As far as the owner decides. Typically, it is 1.5 cm. The movement of the plane is strengthened by the middle of the lounge, then you can get such a form as in classic barrels. Basically, the shape of the barrels can be given any - puzzy, paddle, trapezoidal. The main thing is to do everything right.

Preparation of fastening hoops. They can be both iron and wooden. Wooden have advantages on beauty, protection against corrosion, but not as strong as iron, but the width of the wine cellar will be important to keep wines and barrels, including mechanical damage. Therefore, iron is preferable. So, stainless steel cuts into strips, for better bonding it can be sampling in places of connection with each other. After that, the ends are made by holes for nails, which will play the role of rivets.

Stuffing ready-made hoops and preparation island. Three prepared boards are cling to small in diameter with the help of locks. It is necessary to position them at the same distance from each other. If the calculation was faithful, the remaining boards will enter back. After the full insert, using the hammer and the nozzle, should be sieved to the hoops until they cannot be removed. Tapping from the opposite ends, you can achieve a good effect.

But it is impossible to overdo it: the boards prepared by a long way will be cracked, the process will have to begin again. Also crapped prepared dies can be from a long crossing. So it is prepared one edge of the barrel. Larger diameter hoop needs to wear immediately after the first edge, acting with a hammer. Now the queue of the second edge: the workpiece before mounting the second end is long batted. This is done so that the tree becomes soft and pliable. After that, the workpiece is turned over the open side up and the rope is thrown onto the steaming tree, which twisted so that the ends of the rivets come together. Not vacation ropes, you need to wear a hoop. Such work is not done alone - someone twists the rope, and someone puts on the hoop.

Completion of work

When the ends are ready, it is hardened.

There are many ways, mostly firing. At the same time, the smell and tartness of a burning tree will be transferred to the guilt, which will also be assessed. This is done like this: inside on the side of the ready-made island put in a chip of any fruit tree - preferably cherry. Ignite and slowly rolling with a side on the side for uniform tension. There are no need to breed fire inside the workpiece, it is possible to burn the product. It is impossible to use any liquids for ignition - they in their composition have chemical elements that the tree will absorb. You can use a soldering lamp, but with caution - a strong fire can leave unnoticed with unnoticed, why the product burns.

The final stage of the creation of the barrel is considered to be its grinding outside, drill holes for the bay and cutting of the gutter for DonEv.

Next, the process of manufacturing the barrel is as follows: the workpiece is treated with a tool - rough ends are cut, they grind outside, drill a hole for the bay and cut the gutter for DonEv. The bottoms of the barrels are two circles cut from the like shields. Shields are preparing like this: the brackets of the mustache are proper and fastened additionally with brackets. Circles are sharpened so that their edges go to the SCOS. You need to accurately calculate the diameter of DonEv. This is done after final assembly CASE, because it will not be possible to do right away. Then the bottoms are inserted by weakening extreme hoars. After inserting one, you need to fill the hoop again, then act in the same way and with the second bottom.

Check for tightness. Naturally, the barrel is checked with liquid, that is, with water. It will take the first time while the tree does not swell. The time is given to the fact that the barrel stops flowing, no more than an hour. If she still flows, you need to find the gap and close it. Bondari are used for such purposes the stalks of the root. They are plugged between rivets with a sharp and subtle subject, for example, a knife. In addition, it is possible to cover the barrel outside - wax. Just need to take really bees - products should not be with chemistry.

After the manufacturer of the barrel is almost completed - it is hardened, burned and tested for tightness, it is hugged or allowed to stand with water so that all foreign smells can be taken from the tree, which can be taken and wine. You can treat the inner surface of the barrel of hydrogen peroxide or manganese.

Summarizing

Barrel to make your own hands is easy if you carefully follow the recommendations. Its care is extremely simple - it is necessary to regularly disappear or boil it, and then dry it very carefully if its use is postponed.

One more an important rule: If the barrel is designed for liquid products - pickles, alcohol or water, then it can not be left for it for a long time. If it is used to store dry products, it cannot be wetted.

The wizards of the cooler case left today not so much, but the tradition of doing salmon in the tubs, or to keep honey and wine in the barrels remained in Russia so far. It often happens that there is no possibility for one reason or another to acquire a wooden packaging. Then you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. Let it be not the easiest occupation, however, if you put a clear goal and comply with all the features of the technology, you can make a decent wooden container for storing products and drinks. About how to make an oak barrel with your own hands we will talk below.

We make billets

To make the container you need to start picking material. If you want to store inside bee products, pay attention to the lime or aspen raw materials, Chinar. Not bad honey is stored in a strawberry barrels, alderwood, winds. Oak barrel is ideal for salting, fristed or urine.

If you deal with raw materials, it is worth choosing an old tree. His lower part is best suited for clap. During the workpiece, be sure to follow the chirak to be a couple of centimeters more than the sizes of the future barrel. This stock is needed for ground grinding.

Wood must be raw. Initially, Chuzura splits into 2 parts. To do this, use an ax and a small lounge, which are neatly tapping on the okuhu. Each half is repeatedly splitting. It is necessary to ensure that the separation takes place radially. With each subsequent half come in the same way - the number of blanks depends on how the diameter will be an oak barrel. With your own hands, raw materials prepare simply, the main thing is accuracy. Please note that the blanks can have a different width, but it is not scary.

Clopes dried indoors where good natural ventilation is established. The term is at least 1 month, but ideally even about 1 year. After drying, it is processed by special tools. It can be:

stroke;
shirbel;
plane.

First handle the outer side of the clap, be sure to check the degree of curvature according to a predetermined pattern. It can be cut from a fine one by attaching it to the finished product. After all the exterior surfaces are processed, you can start the side. They are also leveling the pattern, and after processing - fell. The inner surface of the clutch is processed by the plane.

Rings

To make the hoops can be used both steel and wood. The last option is less durable, so it is better to immediately give preference to the metal. For the hoop, hot-rolled steel in the form of a tape is used. Its width is about 3-5 cm, and the thickness: 0.16-0.2 cm.

It is necessary to make a measurement in place where the hoop will be stretched. After that, the width of the strip is added to a certain value, increased twice. With the help of hammer, the workpiece bends, purchasing the shape of the ring, and then the holes are made on or drilled and the bores are put. The material for them serves as a soft steel wire, the diameter of which is 0.4-0.5 cm. One of the internal edges of the hoop is necessarily collapsed by a sharpened end of the hammer.

Subtleties assembly

Production of oak barrels with their own hands requires patience. However, the result is worth spent time and effort. So, to collect booms for salting, a smooth surface is needed. To get the finished barrel you need:

The core does not need to do or disappear before tightening, although there are those who insist on this. There are cases when the workpiece can crack. Then experienced bondari replace it with a new one.

Bottom

To make the bottom, first you need to cut the groove at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the end, its dimensions can be 0.4-0.5 mm. To do this, use a special tool - a sprue. On both sides of the groove with a chisel, you need to make a chamfer from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

The bottom is made from a special shield. It is collected using metal studs or nails. Having drawn the circumference, you need to retreat from it by 1-1.5 cm and cut the future bottom. After that, it is inspired by the Barbell, and the chamfer is cut along the edges. As a result, the thickness of the clap will be not more than 0.3 cm. This ensures complete tightness of the design.

To make the fitting - loosen the bottom hoop and put the bottom. It is introduced into the groove from one side, and from the second - it is adjusted by the hammer to the desired level with light tapping. With a tight course, you can weaken the hoop some more if it is too loose - the hoop is betterressed.

Next, the hoop is quenched again, and the barrel is checked for tightness. To do this, it is poured some water. If flowing between claps - you need to slightly reduce the bottom. If the water is seeping through the bottom or groove, you will have to disassemble the core and narrow out one of the blanks.

Before installing the second bottom, make a hole in it, the diameter of which is not more than 3 cm and make a plug under it. Right sizes It is assumed that it will be a little more bottom thickness and will not speak for the core. That's the whole sequence that needs to be observed to make an oak barrel with their own hands.

Repairs

Is it possible to renovate old barrel? Of course. If an alcoholic drink was kept in it for a long time, it is necessary to disassemble the design and remove the layer with a tree, with a thickness of about 2 mm. Further, the drink does not penetrate the wood. After that, the clans are processed and they are going again.

Repair of the oak barrels can be carried out with their own hands, even if it proceeds. To do this, you need to repeat the same manipulations as in the manufacture of containers - to fit the hoops.

That's it, a cooler case. You can make wooden products yourself, but this requires quite a lot of time and effort. But is it worth spending them if today you can order via the Internet, on the website of the company "Russian Bondar"?

Today you can buy almost everything. But here is a wooden barrel, really high-quality, good, find quite difficult, besides, it is expensive. There is another moment that is not all taken into account is not a fact that the finished barrel is suitable for a particular purpose. The reason is the mismatch of the wood of wood. The conclusion suggests unequivocal - to make a barrel alone. And if you figure it out in detail with the drawings, the nuances of the work, it will not be enough to be complex and impracticable with your own hands.

Pine

Elasticity, flexibility compliance.
Easily processed by a household tool.

With increasing temperature, it will be completely resolved.
A characteristic smell that inside the barrel will be present constantly.

Recommendation - Such wooden barrels are not used to store products or frivors of something.

Juniper

Strength combined with ease of processing.

Large weight.

Recommendation - it is advisable to use for the manufacture of relatively small barrels for transporting (storage) bulk materials.

Oak

Perfectly bend after the tree is wellguard.
Contains fungicides protected constructive elements Barrels from rotting.

High value material. For the manufacture of high-quality barrels will have to use a tree by age at least 80 - 100 years.

Recommendation - If the barrel is intended for storage (fristed) products, wines and so on, then choose oak boards.

According to the reviews of those who have already made a wooden barrel, you can use such wood species such as linden, aspen, mulberry.

The choice of material - the question is quite specific. If the barrel is needed for storing wine reserves (brandy, vodka), frozen (salts) cucumbers, watermelons, apples, and so on, then best tree For her - oak. It is indisputable. But to spend such wood (given its value) to manufacture with your own hands the container in which it is supposed to store cement, sand, bulk products, hardly correctly. For these purposes, other breeds are fully suitable, "simpler".

The procedure for calculating the parameters of the barrel

Based on its purpose and place of installation, dimensions are selected and constructive features. In everyday life there is some confusion with concepts. In principle, and the jacket, and the barrel are the capacitance of a certain capacity, which are collected by hand from individual boards (riveting, road in the language of professionals). The difference is only in geometry. Figures are all well explained.

What is determined for the drawing:

Height barrel
Diameters (big and small).
The bend angle of rivets and their number.

To simplify calculations, it is advisable to focus on type data that are used by specialists in the preparation of the drawings of the barrels.

Wooden barrel do it yourself - instruction

The algorithm of action is clear from the drawings, which marks the main stages of work.

But individual explanations will not be superfluous.

Rivets can be made of a log or boards. Preferably the first option, although its implementation is much more complicated. The fact is that only the lower part of the tree trunk is on the manufacture of the barrel, from the roots to branches. You will have to finish a chumbage (decks).

What is the feature?

The blade of the ax should accurately get into the center, by diametrical line. This will slightly facilitate work and allow you to get high-quality rivets in more quantities (based on each deck).

Boards are obtained by split, squeezing chocks. Treatment of wood is always conducted along the fibers, and not across.

It is desirable to prepare at least 2 - 3 spare rivets.Why, it becomes clear when describing the order of the barrel assembly.

In order to relieve the bend of rivets, the wrong geometry is given. Thickness at the ends of each board should exceed the same parameter in the center of about 0.2. That is, if it is assumed to assemble a barrel from the boards of 10 mm, then they are clothed with the calculation so that their thickness is at least 12 in the lower and upper part of the tank.

Drying rivet

In various sources, the deadlines are indicated that are measured months, and even years (up to 3). Under this item, it is necessary to navigate the local conditions, the original and porosity. Recommendations for artificial acceleration of this process, with their own hands, are not entirely useful. Without practicing, it is difficult to determine the optimal mode for the same email and the excerpt time in it. Experienced masters They advise you to wait until the moisture evaporates from wood naturally.

It is only necessary to place it indoors with proper conditions - the temperature is at least +20 ºС and good ventilation. Perhaps you will have to wait 2, and 3 years. But the high-quality barrel "in one day" is not made, and it needs to be understood.

If we are talking about the container for economic purposes, then you can sit riveting at least on the stove. But in any case, the barrel is not going from raw boards. Already after a couple of weeks (because of the shrinkage of wood), gaps will begin to appear between them. Verified.

Hoops

Find metal stripes, with your own hands driving holes for rivets easy. The only thing to pay attention to is to be better to take tool. It is characterized by increased strength (on the gap) and corrosion resistance. If it is pre-treated with olphos, and then burn (for example, a soldering lamp), then the hoops of the original light brown shade will turn out.

Bottom

It is cut out of a shield that is assembled with its own hands from pre-prepared boards. Moreover, by other technology than the frets (sidewalls). Their thickness in length does not change. To ensure the density of the compounds, the ends are milling, that is, the assembly is conducted according to the well-known principle of Schip-PAZ. In some cases, special (sealing) rails are installed.

Build barrel

The sequence of actions is shown in this picture.

Such work alone is not done; 2 - 3 assistants must be needed. Rivets are placed on the lower hoop with the maximum adjacent. If the last board does not "enter", it should be slightly cut down. Here it will be suitable for spare, since from the first, or even second times, with their own hands, without experience, to fit the "finish" board may not work. A small brute force with the sampling of wood, and it will have to be discarded.

Prank Stage - Installation of the bottom

And only after that the screed screed is made (if they are adjustable) or the final landing to place (height).

Last Stage - Wood Grinding

Than to treat the barrel from the outside, it is solved on the spot ("skin" and manually, grinding / machine), but then the container is desirable to cover with bees wax (thin layer). This will ensure additional protection of the tree from external factors.

Successes to you, novice bondari!

Instruction

First of all, select wood, depending on your purpose. For storage of honey, linden, aspen, poplar, vehicle, alder are suitable for storage. For salting, quay or urine is best suited. For other needs, they use beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch or birch.

Billets or rivets are made of raw wood, from the bottom of the trunk. Chock, which is a longer than the future riveting on 5-6 cm, radially split on a blank 5-10 cm wide (for the donon 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Then lay the blanks for a month or more indoor with natural ventilation for drying .

Dried billets Treat the tires and the plane, first from the outside, checking the curvature by the template taken from the finished product. Then we treat the side surfaces by Fugansky, as taking into account the curvature on the pattern, and internal, to reduce thickness in the middle - ax.
For the taper of the tub and bulgebly, the magnitude of the riveting extensions has a ratio of 1.7-1.8 between the widest and narrow part. For the pipe wider the bottom end, for the barrel - the middle of the riveting.

For the manufacture of the hoop, take a hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2 mm and a width of 30-50 mm. To calculate the length of the future wrap, to the sizes of the barrel on the site of the screed, add a double bandwidth. Bend the ribbon into the ring, run or drill the holes and scroll with a soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm.
One edge of each wrap is fragmented by a hammer on anvil. At the place of location on the barrel, the hoops are called: the central - "onion", the extreme - "arsenic", intermediate - "cervical".

Collect on a flat surface, pouring two rivets against the helm of the brackets against a friend. Then, in turn insert the following rivets, collecting the first half of the barrel, and also the second half. Crawling with a hammer, hesitate the hoop to a dense joint of riveting edges.
If the gap remains, in which the last riveting is not climbing, do not be afraid to pull it up to the desired width, or remove another narrow riveting and insert wide.

Hang the ends of the island with a hammer, put on the onion hoop and until the stop stops it with the helproom. Having exhibit the foundation exactly, pull the other edge of the island of the rope loop with the lever. Having scored the second helical hoop, allege the ends of rivets by Rovenkom-Gorbsch, 2-3 mm from the hoop.
From one edge of the island, make a depth and width of 3 mm with the help of the inside, in which subsequently insert the bottom.

Come on the bottom of the boobs that fitted around the edges of the boobs, after which do trust in advance drawn circle. Paste the bottom after somewhat weaken the helical hoop, adjusting the density of entry and pressing the hammer with light blows. The second bottom of the other side is also inserted, with the only difference that in it first the bulk hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm is drilled, to which the plug is adjusted.

Oak barrel do it yourself, drawings of products. Before proceeding with the manufacture, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with GOST 8777-80, which sets the main dimensions and parameters to the wooden barrels of fuel and dry-ground.

Consider example, Production of containers per 15 liters, which will consist of twenty rivets.

Rivet.
Dame.
Wrap is a helical.
Wrap bucom.

The entire manufacturing process can be divided into four stages.

Stage I. Sizes and barrel parameters.

For this, depending on the volume of the product:

From Table No. 1, choose the main parameters and dimensions

From Table number 2 Select the size of the rivets

From Table number 3, choose the amount of metal hoops

By simple geometric constructions, flaming rivets.

The length of the riveting in the dismissed form is determined by the formula: L \u003d 2πrα / 360

We substitute the values \u200b\u200band get l \u003d 2 x 3.14 x 1282.04 x 15,69 / 360 \u003d 350.9 (mm)

Determined the size of the billets for the riveting that were 18 x 46 x 351 (mm)

Stage II. Production of the Donette.

We accept the dimensions specified in Tables No. 1, No. 2.

Coupling on the rail.
Applying markings and sawing a circle.
Removing the champers.

Stage III. Making a hoop.

Application on sheet metal.
Washing sheet metal with a thickness of 1 ... 2 (mm).
Compound wrap rivets.
Lock hoop.

Stage IV. The sequence of the assembly of the oak barrel.

Attaching three rivets to the hoop and the insertion of the rest
Installing a cervical hoop.
Sparring rivets.
Stringing riveting gate.
Installing a helical hoop.
Assembly island.
Insert a pedestal.
Installing a helical hoop.

Oak barrel, with their own hands made according to drawings - a wonderful vessel for many years of exposure of alcoholic beverages and billets of the soles for the winter.