Grow strawberry seedlings from seeds. How to grow strawberries from seeds: instructions for growing and caring for home (100 photos and videos). Presowing seed treatment

Every year I grow strawberries from seeds for seedlings at home, which I plant in spring open ground... A neighbor in the garden asked me to teach how to plant strawberries. This is how this article appeared, in which I share my many years of practical experience.

As a child I loved Victoria, now it is my son's favorite berry. Every year I plant two or three new varieties of strawberries, because each variety has a unique taste and aroma.

I have something to compare and with, both in terms of yield and taste. Ripe, dense, freshly plucked from the bush berry cannot be compared with the watery mass that fills the markets and shops of our country every spring.

Why grow seedlings from seeds

Garden strawberries are perennial from the Pink family, not found in the wild. With age, yields fall, diseases accumulate, and the soil is depleted. Through growing seedlings from biological seeds, the population is renewed and the beds are healed.

In the first year, the strawberries are gaining strength, in the second and third years they bring the greatest harvest. In the fourth year, the harvest declines. In the fifth year, the strawberries are removed, and the bed is freed up for other crops. Plant young plants regularly to maintain the cycle.

Shops for gardeners offer ready-made strawberry seedlings at a price of 250-300 rubles per plant. Pensioners, who make up 80% of summer residents and gardeners, cannot afford such expenses.

Grandmothers selling inexpensive seedlings on the market will not give a guarantee that the strawberries are varietal and have not degenerated, that this is the first shoot from the mother plant. Buy a pig in a poke, waste time without getting the coveted harvest.

My costs for planting seedlings were:

• Soil - 50 rubles, 10 liters
• Seedling set - 200 rubles, 2 pallets and 20 pots
• Seeds "Strawberries Flavor of Summer F1" - 68 rubles, 4 pieces per package
• Seeds "Strawberry Nastenka F1" - 68 rubles, 20 pcs. packaged
• Seeds "Strawberry Sweet Tooth F1" - 29 rubles, 10 pcs. packaged
• The sprayer and phyto-lamps are reusable, left over from previous seasons.

Total 415 rubles, of which 200 for reusable pots. The price of one strawberry seedling is 250 rubles as of 2018 in Novosibirsk. Even if you manage to grow only a few plants, the costs will pay off with interest.

When planting seedlings with seeds, it will be known what kind of variety it is and with what characteristics. You can choose the types of strawberries, so that drought-resistant and moisture-resistant varieties grow at the same time. Then it makes no difference whether the summer will be hot or rainy. You will not be left without a harvest.

Novice gardeners are stopped by the horrors that write on the Internet about growing strawberries. Seed selection, soil preparation, stratification, sowing under snow, cotton swabs with seeds in the refrigerator ...

In fact, to achieve a result, only three components are needed:

1. humidity
2. warmly

Where to buy and how to choose seeds by variety

The seeds are sold in specialty stores and garden departments in large hypermarkets. Branded garden stores usually sell products of only one agricultural complex, which reduces the choice of options.

Large producers and suppliers supply seeds and seedlings by mail, which is convenient for residents of remote areas where there is no choice of specialized stores. Mail order catalog from detailed description strawberry varieties.

When choosing seeds, read the description of the variety, paying attention to the following details:

• Date of manufacture and shelf life of seeds: Germination of old seeds tends to zero.
• Berry weight, from 2.5 to 25 grams. There are varieties with a berry weight of 40 grams.

The larger the berry, the fewer seeds in one package and the more expensive one package of seeds is. But picking a large berry is much more interesting.

• Fruiting period

Early, mid-ripening, late-ripening - by combining varieties, the berry will be in your beds all summer.

Repair strawberry - bears fruit evenly throughout the season, until autumn frosts. When the wild strawberries departed, the grandmothers selling berries in glasses disappeared from the markets, you will have a fresh large berry from the bush. My practice shows that growing large-fruited remontant strawberries is no more difficult than ordinary ones.

• Mustacheless strawberries

Mustacheless strawberry - requires less maintenance, no need to regularly trim the mustache. For reproduction, an adult bush in the third year is transplanted to a new place and, when transplanted, is divided into parts, from each an independent plant will grow.

• Mustached strawberry

Weeding of the mustache is required so that there is no thickening of the landings. Already in the second year, due to the children, the garden will grow three times from the initial one. Only the first-order sockets closest to the mother bush should be left for divorce.

Timing of planting strawberry seeds for seedlings

Strawberry seedlings are sown from mid-February to early April, 2-3 months before the end of the threat of return frosts. When you don't have extra lighting, it's best to plant a couple of weeks later.

In open ground, the strengthened bushes are planted in late May, early June. For the regions of central Russia, the Urals and Siberia, the optimal time for landing in open ground is June 10.

When planting earlier, to protect strawberries from recurrent frosts, cover the seedlings at night with covering material or sprinkle with hay and straw.

The second time seeds are planted for seedlings in June, for autumn planting of strawberries in open ground. The strawberries, which were planted in August-September, will have time to take root before frost and overwinter safely.

In Siberia, autumn strawberries did not show any advantages over spring planting and begin to bear fruit the next year, so I am from growing a second layer for autumn planting refused.

How to properly plant strawberry seeds

For a better understanding of what this is about, watch the five minute video I made for this article, where I plant strawberries for seedlings.

Fill the pot or cup with earth, one cm from the top edge. Lightly tamp and water thoroughly. Use water for irrigation settled, at room temperature.

The land can be either ready-made soil from the store, or from your garden. The main condition is that the soil is loose and homogeneous.

Pour dry strawberry seeds onto a moistened surface. As necessary, afterwards, spread the seeds evenly over the surface with a toothpick.

It is strictly not recommended to water, bury, deepen or sprinkle the seeds with soil immediately after planting. The plant will take root by itself, and watering at first will only wash out the seeds.

To create a microclimate, the pots are covered with cling film. Condensation will fall on the surface of the film in the morning and evening. This is how natural hydration occurs. The film should be removed only after the first shoots appear.

In the video, I showed how to wrap cling film around the pots, it is much more convenient to fix the film on the pot by pulling an elastic band for money on top.

Make sure that the earth does not dry out, if natural moisture is not enough, lift the film and gently water it without pressure, so that the seeds and earth are not washed away with water. Excess moisture is also detrimental to strawberries.

How long does it take for strawberry seeds to sprout?

The strawberries were planted on February 21st and the shoots were not long in coming, ten days later, on March 03, the first green shoots appeared under the film. The seeds did not sprout evenly, the last shoots were at the end of April, two months after planting.

Shoots are easy to mistake for weed... The cotyledons do not look like the usual tridents of adult seedlings.

The leaders of the informal competition were the varieties "Sweet Tooth F1" from Aelita and "Nastenka F1" from Sedek. The seeds of the Aromat Leta and Kirgizka strawberries were not allowed in, but the roots have already begun to hatch.

Each variety of large-fruited remontant strawberries hatched. "Scent of Summer" has a germination rate of 100 percent, all 4 grains in the capsule of the seed package have sprouted. The fact that the variety reproduces with a mustache is encouraging. Varieties "Sweet tooth" and "Nastenka" partially rose, "Kirgizka" - together rose

The "Kirghizka" variety does not exist, I called the strawberry that, because the berry from which I picked the seeds was bought from a Kirghiz woman in the market last summer.

After the seeds have sprouted, caring for strawberries consists in daily airing the seedlings, a film is removed from the pots for a day. In the evening, the film is returned to its place until morning. Ten days later, on March 13th, I completely removed the film so that due to high humidity the plant stems would not rot.

Every plant needs light to grow, and strawberries are no exception. Agronomists recommend 16-hour daylight hours, which is achieved by lighting with phytolamps. Phytolamps are sold in specialized stores and online stores.

The first years I did not have phytolamps, the seedlings also grew. It is recommended to sow without light for a couple of weeks later when daylight hours increase.

Second required condition it is soil moisture control. Do not allow the soil to dry out. Water the soil carefully, drop by drop, so as not to damage the young plants with pressure.

For these purposes, a pipette or a rubber bulb from a pharmacy is suitable. I water it myself with a garden spray, in which there is no pressure and water barely drips.

When to dive strawberries

Strawberry seedlings dive when 2-3 true serrated leaves grow. The seeds do not sprout evenly, so the pick is carried out as the seedlings grow.

Water the day before the pick, so that the soil dries up and you can dig up the strawberries and remove them with a lump of earth. The root system during this period is poorly developed and easily damaged, therefore, when transplanting, try not to expose the roots.

Strawberries dive twice. First time in small cassettes. In a month, the roots will grow, and the second time they are transplanted into half-liter pots. If you immediately plant it in large containers, the roots will not have time to master the entire space, moisture will stagnate in the ground and the plants will begin to rot.

In order not to confuse where which variety grows, I glue strips of adhesive plaster on the pots, on which I sign the name of the strawberry.

When picking strawberry seedlings and planting them in a permanent place, make sure not to oversleep the growing point - the middle of the plant, from where the leaves diverge to the sides. Otherwise, the plant will die.

Video clip, how I dive strawberry seedlings:

Soil and pots for growing strawberries

I used to use plastic sour cream cups and disposable cups. This year I bought reusable containers for strawberries with an extruded bottom and a common pallet. Now I put a pallet with ten pots on the shelves and window sills.

The difference between pots and disposable cups is ease of maintenance. He pulled out the pallet with plants for quick watering, then turned it around so that the seedlings, which were in the shade at the edge of the window sill, were in the light by the window.

The cups from the set have drainage holes. When the seedlings have grown, for quick irrigation I pour water directly into a tray with cups, to a level of 1 cm. The earth absorbs moisture well.

If you use disposable cups, then before planting, pierce the bottom with them (with an awl, ikolka) for drainage so that excess water does not stagnate.

According to my observations, strawberries planted in a 0.5 liter cup grows 2-3 times larger than its counterpart in a 0.2 liter cup. Strawberries in 0.1l cups stopped growing until they were transplanted into a larger container.

I did not notice the difference between the ready-made soil and garden soil. The strawberries grew the same. The choice depends on your personal preferences, which is more convenient to harvest the soil in the fall or go to the store in winter.

In the northern regions, the garden soil is disinfected by low temperatures, the soil is left in bags on the street from autumn until the end of the Epiphany frosts. Two weeks before planting, the bags are brought into the house so that the earth warms up.

Personally, I liked using purchased primer more. Store soil is already ready for planting and does not require additional manipulations for disinfection and fertilization.

Growing strawberries in peat tablets

A year has passed since the publication of this note, strawberries in the garden have taken root 100%, and summing up the season I want to say that the sweetest berry is the Aroma of Summer F1 variety.

I like to grow large strawberry varieties. This February, 2020, I again bought the seeds of the Aroma of Summer hybrids from Gavrish, Pink Dream from Sedek (the Pink Dream strawberry variety is new to me, I had not grown it before) and decided to conduct an experiment - to grow seedlings in peat tablets.

For the purity of the experiment, in order to determine which method is better - sow part of the seeds from each package in the usual way, as described above.

As strawberries grow in peat tablets, I will regularly talk about the experiment in this article. If you want to keep up to date - bookmark this page and update every week.

• 23 february 2020, sowing

I bought two mini-greenhouses with a pallet, a lid, a cassette unit for 12 cells and peat tablets, in Novosibirsk the price range is 50-55 rubles per greenhouse. According to the instructions on the package, I filled the cassettes with water and waited until the water was absorbed.

After 30 minutes, he unpacked the packages with seeds and immediately placed them in the center of the peat tablets, deepening them literally half a millimeter and closed them with a transparent lid. Much more convenient than covering with cling film, as I did that year. Sowed sparsely - one cell, one cell

This time Gavrish pleased us, the capsule from the Aromatum Leta package contained 8 seeds and the second 7 instead of four standard seeds.

• March 03, 2020, strawberries have risen, but not all of them

10 days have passed and the first shoots of strawberries have appeared, there is no difference in germination time compared to sowing in the soil, and on the tenth day the strawberries begin to sprout.

Now in the afternoon I open the greenhouses for ventilation for several hours and turn on the backlight with a phytolamp. Temperature regime I do not specifically adjust, the thermometer on the windowsill shows 23 degrees.

• March 04, first watering

Strawberries are poured with settled water at room temperature, so as not to wash out the peat and sprout roots, I pour it with a teaspoon. One teaspoon of water from the edge of the cell, so you won't damage the strawberries growing in the center of the cassette.

Peat tablets contain enough nutrients necessary for the growth of seedlings, so strawberries do not need additional feeding.

Early May, leaving in the garden

Last year, the beginning of May turned out to be warm and I went to the garden to check my plantings. That year I grew two varieties of remontant strawberries from seeds - "Irishka" and "Lizonka" from the agricultural company "SeDec"

Both varieties overwintered well without additional cover. Let me remind you that I grow strawberries in Western Siberia. The bushes planted in spring have grown well in a year. The seedlings planted in the fall have all taken root, but the bushes are not large in size, in comparison with those that are six months older.

"Irishka" is a mustacheless variety, cut off old dry leaves and stalks with scissors. "Lizonka" is a mustachioed variety, I left only the first order children, those closest to the parent bush. All the same, the children grew into two more of the same beds. He quickly dug up a garden bed, dug up strawberry children with soil with a garden spatula - and to a new place of residence.

In size, the babies were not inferior to the mother bush, they have a powerful, well-developed root system. It is recommended to leave the very first shoots from the mother bush, because on the children of the second and third order, degeneration begins and the properties of the mother bush are lost.

After well shed plantings, old and new. 5 liters of water per bush. Strawberries need moisture now, because the bushes are beginning to lay the future harvest.

By May 5th, flower stalks began to appear on both varieties. If you compare "Irishka" and "Lizonka" berries with each other, then "Lizonka" berries are dark red, denser and twice as large as "Irishka".

The most important difference made by my son, "Lizonka" gives sweet juicy berries, the "Irishka" variety gives smaller berries and color pink with sourness. In this connection, Kirill "Irishka" cultivar was put aside, saying that it was necessary to plant "Lizonka"

I don’t like to weed weeds, and secondly, I’m just too lazy to do it. I tried to solve the problem of weeds in strawberries in two ways - I treated one area with herbicides, on the second I thoroughly weeded everything and covered it with sawdust. Pine, layer 4-5 centimeters. I poured it gently under the leaves and around, so that the growth point did not fall asleep. Sawdust - where the wood is cut into planks, is distributed free of charge.

In the spring, the area treated with herbicides is all green, there is nowhere to go from the grass. You can't even see strawberry bushes, everything is overgrown. The area covered with sawdust is clean, several dandelions made their way, which he quickly pulled out.

Landing too often was my mistake. The overgrown bushes became cramped and there is not enough space for ventilation. This time I planted a berry in the garden in two lines, alternating in a checkerboard pattern.

Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries in neighboring beds?

When I was just gaining experience in growing large-fruited garden strawberries, on the Internet on large sites I came across the opinion that different varieties of strawberries should not be planted next to each other.

The main reasoning was that bees would pollinate different varieties of berries, which would negatively affect the harvest. All plantings will lose their varietal characteristics.

Having become interested in this theory of cross-pollination, I turned to local beekeepers with the question of how far bees fly. It turns out that the flight of a bee from the hive is up to 5 km, during honey collection, bees collect pollen at a distance of up to three kilometers.

It turns out that there is no cross-pollination, different varieties need to be planted at a distance of 3 kilometers from each other. Who can afford a three-kilometer-wide row-spacing in a vegetable garden ?!

Strawberry is a bee-pollinated plant. No bees, no harvest. I'm at the edges of the garden, literally square meter I sow the land with a honey plant - phacelia. I sowed in three terms. Phacelia also bloomed in three terms. And all summer my beds were buzzing with bees and bumblebees.

I don’t know whether there was cross-pollination or not, but different varieties in the neighboring beds did not influence each other in any way.

And my main counter-argument in favor of the proximity of different varieties of strawberries is that we plant HYBRIDS. Letter designation The "F1" on the seed package means it is a hybrid. The seeds from the resulting crop will not have the properties of the parent bush. It makes no difference whether there was a pollination or not.

With a neighbor I was talking about at the beginning of the article, we went to the store together, bought land and seeds from one counter. I told him for an hour, the information you read above.

However, the same evening my neighbor called me, it turns out that I am not growing strawberries correctly. He read it right on the Internet, and now his harvest will trample.

And I planted the seeds in my own way. My strawberries grew quickly, and in the first summer they bore a harvest. The neighbor waited until autumn and gave up - not a single seed sprouted.

I wondered what a neighbor found about strawberries on the Internet. It turned out that I don't do a lot of things from what my neighbor did:

• didn't put the seeds in the refrigerator
• did not germinate the seeds beforehand
• did not cover the surface of the earth with a layer of snow
• did not spread the seeds on the snow
• did not sprinkle snow with seeds with a layer of sand

As practice shows, strawberries grow well without all these dances with tambourines. It is recommended to cover with snow so that the seeds can be seen better and what exactly happens in nature. But the seeds from the soil are already different in color, but in nature, garden strawberries do not grow.

Another popular but very harmful advice is instructions for self-preparation seeds. I harvested the seeds myself several times. It is not difficult and germination is good. Only an incomprehensible herb grows, very powerful and without berries.

"Kirghizka" is my last experience, I will not spend more time and energy on my strawberry seeds. It's a shame that "Kyrgyz" I grew up twice from cheap store seeds.

Miracle buttock fabulous collection - scam

In conclusion, I want to warn you about one popular way of deceiving gullible gardeners.

For interest, I called the miracle buttock by the contact phone number. The girl assured me that Academician Sakharov made this discovery in his research, for which he received the Nobel Prize.

The high yield is due to the top secret soil from the jungle of the wild Amazon. People are greedy for free and, despite the delusional nature of such statements, they send their money to pay for this very buttocks.

I told how to germinate seeds in two months, and in the second year to collect 1.5 kg of berries from a bush. The owners of the home bush are "guaranteed" a yield of 5 kg per bush every two weeks starting from the second month after planting.

After spending a lot of time exploring the site russian academy sciences, I have not met anywhere mention of Academician Sakharov. Among the Nobel laureates, there was no such name or merit.

Do not get fooled by such offers - a fabulous collection of a home miracle buttock is a common deception and money scam

I am very interested to know how you grow strawberries, which varieties you like best and what difficulties you face. I would be grateful to everyone who shares their results in the comments.

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Thank you for your attention, Alexander Utyshev was gardening with you

Most summer residents grow strawberries in the traditional way - using ready-made seedlings or rooting antennae. This method is simple, fast, and straightforward even for beginners. But experienced gardeners have long noticed that strawberry bushes purchased on the market in practice turn out to be a completely different variety. Until the harvest is harvested, you will not notice such a change. How do you grow exactly the varieties you want? You need to master the propagation of strawberries by seeds. You will get guaranteed results and great experience. Pay attention, this breeding technique is universal: from now on you will have strawberries and strawberries from seeds at home.

Varieties

Not every strawberry seed produces a great harvest. In order not to experiment, it is recommended to initially give preference to those varieties that are unpretentious during germination and easily transfer planting from pots to open ground.

1. Diamond. Gardeners are very fond of this variety for its resistance to diseases - pests, fungi, viruses. Although the fruits are not large, the variety has a very high yield: 2 kg of strawberries can be harvested from one bush. Compact berries are well stored, juicy, firm.
2. Ducat. Another high-yielding variety... Ideal for early planting of seedlings, as it is not afraid of night frosts in spring. The berries are medium, regular and elongated.
3. Queen Elizabeth II. This variety is truly the queen of our gardens. An ideal strawberry for most regions of our country. Very resistant to frost and pests. The variety is remontant, always gives a generous harvest. The berries are large, very sweet. Queen Elizabeth II is considered one of the most successful and popular varieties for growing strawberries from seeds.
4. Clery. On our summer cottages this Italian variety appeared not so long ago, but has already won popular love. It is possible to collect very quality seeds... Cleary strawberries are rarely prone to rotting and other diseases. But since the plants are from Italy, that is, this variety has a significant disadvantage: it is not frost-resistant. Therefore, Clery is massively grown by summer residents of the southern regions.
5. Olivia. This variety is suitable for summer residents who have poor land and unfavorable conditions for placing a land plot. The yield is average, but this is offset by Olivia's extraordinary resilience: this strawberry tolerates cold, dry summers very well and is easily grown from seed.
6. Kent. Another popular variety with us. The taste of the berries is gentle, the fruits of the variety are juicy and large. Kent is famous for its unpretentiousness. Kent has a good resemblance.

Sowing dates

Have you clearly decided that strawberries from seeds will appear on your plantation? Growing, dacha tricks will help you deal with this process in detail. Experienced summer residents know that in this matter it is extremely important to guess correctly with the sowing dates. This is the key to a high harvest. If you want to grow seedlings from seeds for sale, then sowing should be done in the middle or in the last decade of February. Saplings must necessarily grow with artificial lighting. But summer residents note that in the future this affects the intensity of strawberry growth. Such seedlings are less resistant to drought and viral diseases. Therefore, if you grow strawberries for yourself, then the seedlings should grow without artificial lighting... This means that the ideal time for sowing seeds is from March 5 to 10. If you sow earlier, the seedlings will die due to lack of natural light.

Seed collection

Ready-made seeds can easily be bought at any gardening store. But, firstly, you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of these seeds. Often, their similarity is very low; many seeds are not viable. Secondly, as with purchased seedlings, you run the risk of growing a completely different variety from seeds that is withered on the package. And since you have decided to master the cultivation of strawberries from seeds at home, then take part in this process at all its stages.

How to get strawberry seeds from berries? You need to get seeds from well-developed, healthy, strong bushes of strawberries or strawberries.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Take 4-5 ripe large berries
2. Cut off the nose of the berry with a knife - underdeveloped seeds are collected here
3. From the rest of the berry, use a knife to cut off the layer of pulp along with the seeds
4. Spread out evenly on a paper towel
5. Send berries and seeds to dry in a warm, dry place, but not in direct sunlight.
6. When the pulp is completely dry, rub it in your palms, separating the seeds
7. Place peeled dry seeds in a glass container for storage

Once you've learned how to harvest seeds from strawberries, it is also important to store them properly. The seeds should not be allowed to freeze, but also too heat it doesn't suit them either.

The optimal storage mode is from 5 to 15 degrees Celsius. The jar should not get moisture, as well as the sun's rays.

Seed preparation

Another important trick experienced summer residents Is the process of seed stratification. In other words, the seeds need to be hardened. A month before the planned sowing, you need to take a damp cotton pad, place the seeds on it, and cover it with the same wet disc on top.

Use a needle or a toothpick to make holes through the seeds so that the seeds can breathe and not rot. Place the container with seeds in a warm room for 48 hours. Then refrigerate for the next 4 weeks. Control the moisture of the cotton pads, they should not dry out.

After 1 month, the seeds need to be removed from the refrigerator and dried a little. They are now ready to be planted in the ground for seedlings.

Soil preparation

Strawberries are a very demanding crop for the quality of the substrate. The earth should be light, loose, crumbly. But without any organic fertilizers or mineral dressings. You can buy ready-made, clean substrate in bags. You need a versatile soil designed for growing all kinds of seedlings. If you use land taken from the garden, then it needs to be disinfected. First, prepare the correct potting mix. You need to take forest or garden soil and add sand to it in a ratio of 3: 1.

As soon as the earth from the cold street is transferred to a warm room, numerous pests are activated in it. There is a risk of infecting young sprouts. There are several options for cleaning the substrate. The easiest one is to pour boiling water abundantly on the ground 14 days before planting the seeds. The second option is to warm up the earth in the oven for 20 minutes at a temperature of 100 degrees.

When you disinfect the substrate, both harmful and beneficial microorganisms will die in it. Leave the soil in a warm room for 2 weeks to reintroduce the beneficial bacteria. And only after that sowing can be carried out. Please note that the soil already needs to be prepared at the moment while the seeds are stratified and lie in the refrigerator.

Sowing seeds

Planting strawberries with seeds for seedlings requires initially determining in which containers to sow seeds. Two options are suitable for strawberries - sowing in containers or in peat tablets. We'll cover both of these methods in detail.

Into containers

Once the seeds have been in the refrigerator for 4 weeks, they can immediately be sown into containers. Take one large container for convenience.

Fill the container with pre-prepared and warmed earth. Use your hands to compact the soil slightly. It is not necessary to water it abundantly - it is enough to moisten it well from a spray bottle. Now it is important to carefully, evenly transfer and distribute the seeds. Their size is very small, so it is most convenient to work with tweezers. Press the seeds gently to the ground, but do not sprinkle the substrate on top. Strawberry seeds germinate well in the light.

Now the container needs to be covered with a lid and placed in a warm, well-lit place. If your container was sold with a lid without vents, then you need to do them yourself. They are needed for natural ventilation, as well as lighting.

It is important that it is not exposed to direct sunlight. The seeds will dry out quickly, do not have time to germinate and die. The lid must not be opened for the first 3-4 days. An ideal microclimate for the germination of seeds has been created under it. Condensation collects on the lid, it flows down to the surface of the substrate and optimally moisturizes the soil.

Ideally, buy a container with a transparent lid. You will be able to control the moisture level: if there are few drops, you need to spray the soil with a spray gun. If the entire lid is wet, and often drips from it, open the container for ventilation.

In peat tablets

You can purchase ready-made peat tablets-cups and plant 1-2 seeds in each of them.

Important! You need to transfer seeds that have already hatched into tablets. For this, the seeds are taken from the refrigerator to a warm room, the air temperature in which is not lower than 20 degrees. Within 1-2 days, the seeds will begin to germinate. They are transferred into peat tablets. How to transfer?

First, moisten the peat tablets well, let the excess water drain. Use tweezers to transfer the seeds, slightly pressing them to the ground. Place peat tablets on a tray and cover with a foil or lid on top. As with the container, keep an eye on the moisture level.

Seedling picking

How to grow strawberries from seeds at home after the sprouts start growing? As soon as your seedlings start laying 3 full-fledged leaves, the plants need to be transplanted into separate containers - one copy in a small glass. The dimensions of the container should be somewhere around 8x8 cm. The height is also 8-10 cm. You can buy ready-made plastic pots in shops for gardeners, but you can also use the usual containers from yoghurts and sour cream.

Be sure to lay out the drainage on the bottom of the cups. These are small pebbles, river sand, crushed nuts or eggshells. Pour earth on top. Water the soil liberally, make a small indentation and gently transfer the strawberries. The sprouts must not be buried deep. Press down on the ground a little. Do not water the seedlings that day.

Diving is a very important process. It cannot be ignored. Inexperienced summer residents often plant grown plants already in open ground, without first transplanting them into individual containers.

What does diving give?

• Stimulates the development of a powerful root system, especially the laying of lateral roots.
• Thanks to the pick, there is no interlacing of adjacent roots in the container, which are then injured when planted in open ground.
• When the germination rate is 100, then the strongest shoots can be selected and transplanted.
• A pick protects against diseases that are transmitted to all sprouts.

Care

• A common problem is the thin stems of seedlings that fall to the ground under the weight of the leaves. Often such sprouts die. To prevent this from happening, you need to fill up a little earth, to give the plants an opportunity to better take root.
• Water gently using a large spoon or spray with a spray bottle. A stream of water from the watering can exposes the roots, which leads to poor development of seedlings.
• If you notice white, green mold on the surface of the earth, then remove the affected areas of the soil with a match. Let the soil dry, do not water for the next 2-3 days. In the case when this problem recurs regularly, you can treat the soil with a solution of a special antifungal drug. These products are versatile, sold in any gardening store.
• Change the position of the seedling pots every 2 days. The sprout stems will always reach for the light source. To keep the stems even and strong, the cups need to be rolled in the opposite direction.
• From mid-April, the seedlings need to be hardened. Take the pots out to the balcony or veranda during the day. When the night temperature stabilizes and does not drop below 5 degrees, you can leave the seedlings overnight.
• Planting strawberry seedlings in open ground can be carried out from May 25 to June 5.

As practice shows, the propagation of strawberries by seeds is a troublesome process. But this is only the first time. Consider all the tips and nuances. If you follow all the recommendations carefully, you can harvest an excellent harvest.

To get garden strawberries from seeds, you have to painstakingly look after the planting plant. Some gardeners do not see the point in such troubles, since it takes a long time to wait for seed shoots, many do not germinate, and the shoots appear fragile and small, so the dive has to be done with tweezers. It is necessary to monitor the seedling soil: it cannot be waterlogged and overdried. And yet, such work is bearing significant fruit. You will learn about this and the recommendations of experienced gardeners on our page.

So why grow strawberries from seeds at home? In order to improve the health of the already grown berries on the site, that is, to save them from viral diseases, as well as to multiply new varieties of crops. Strawberries should be remontant (alpine) and small-fruited varieties, then it will be easier to grow healthy seedlings - they are not as capricious as. You can move on to breeding large-fruited varieties after gaining experience in growing, for example, varieties such as Rembol - it is difficult to propagate with a mustache or Whitsow - the bushes do not have a mustache, propagated by seeds or by dividing the bush. Strawberry seeds can repeat parental qualities in new seedlings.

It is more difficult to cultivate strawberries from seeds at home - this must be done by breeders, but every summer resident can try. Although strawberries from seeds do not replicate their motherly qualities, it is possible to create a new healthy variety, and all the efforts will not be in vain.

Among the popular varieties rembol and Whitesou strawberries are in demand. Blossom and bear whole summer season there will be strawberries:

Note!

You shouldn't buy seeds, it's better to grow your own. It makes no sense to collect seeds from hybrid strawberries, and also to acquire them, since they do not repeat the maternal qualities. They are marked on the packaging with the letter F1.

Large-sized strawberries from seeds are grown at home in the same way as strawberries. There are several varieties to choose from for growing in your climate region, although each will require individual care. The varieties must be adapted to the soil of the garden plot.

Strawberry seedlings can grow from seeds at home, resistant to cold weather, pests and diseases, if you sow the culture of the following varieties: Bogota, Zarya, Mount Everest, Mashenka, Queen Elizabeth, Festivalnaya. Of these, sour varieties are: Bogota, Zarya, Mount Everest, sweet varieties - Mashenka, Queen Elizabeth and Festivalnaya. Popular strawberries varieties Annapolis, Gigantella, Regina and Fragola.

Sowing seed for seedlings

If it is possible to illuminate the sprouts with a lamp, then you can sow seeds already in December, if this is not possible, then in March - early April. Seedlings of strawberries from seeds germinate exclusively during daylight hours or when illuminated for 12-14 hours.

Important!

You don't need to soak your seeds if they're fresh. If the expiration date has expired, then you will need a growth stimulator to soak the seeds.

Soil preparation

The earth must be light and permeable, so it is sieved through a sieve. You can choose one of the following mix options (in parts):

• No. 1: garden soil - 3, humus or compost - 3, wood ash - ½;
• No. 2: vermiculite - 4, peat and sand - 3 each.
• No. 3: coconut fiber + humus or biohumus - 1 each.
• No. 4: humus - 5, sand - 3;
• No. 5: sod land - 2, sand + peat - 1 each.
• No. 6: sand - 3, garden soil + humus - 1 each.

Advice!

For disinfection, the soil must be calcined or frozen or watered with pink potassium permanganate. If you use small peat tablets, after soaking, they will turn into a column of peat, 10 times higher than the original size.

Seedling containers

For sowing seeds, a mini-greenhouse is prepared, into which the selected soil is poured. IN plastic containers there should be a lid and holes in the bottom for drainage. The plastic must be transparent so that fungus does not spread in the container. When using disinfected peat tablets, the inside of the container is only wiped with potassium permanganate. If the container is filled with a soil mixture, then the edges of the walls are left with a size of 2-3 cm. The earth is slightly moistened, leveled so that the seeds do not go deep into it. Many make beds and sow planting material on them, then use a toothpick to distribute it over the container.

Snow is poured on top instead of earth, the container is closed with a lid and placed in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, although some gardeners keep the container cool for only 4 days. The snow will gradually melt and go into the soil, followed by the seeds. This process is called stratification. Gardeners do not like it, but it is necessary for the plant, since it creates conditions close to natural, natural conditions for growth. At first, the seeds "sleep", and special substances prevent their germination before the favorable period begins. It is stratification that helps the seed to come out of hibernation and start growing. If there is no snow for the container, then the seeds can be kept in the refrigerator in a damp cloth, and only then sown into the ground.

After stratification, the mini-container can be placed on the windowsill without opening the lid for 2-3-4 days, since there is still enough moisture for the sprouts. Don't forget about additional lighting. Then the lid is gradually opened, as the strawberries start to grow in 10-15 or 30 days, cotyledon leaves and roots will appear. The lid is opened first for an hour, then for two, and so on, so that the seedlings are stable and do not die, and also so that moisture does not evaporate quickly.

Seedling care

Until the first three true leaves appear, no feeding is carried out. Moisture in the container, not waterlogged soil, is the key to growing strawberries from seeds. The lid can be used to maintain the humidity level. The lid is a little fogged up - everything is fine. If condensate is collected on it in the form of drops, then the soil contains a lot of water. Then the seedlings should be ventilated. The dry cover shows that it is necessary to water the seedlings.

The watering itself must be done carefully: with a fine-jet sprayer or drip onto the walls of the container from a medical syringe. It is recommended to take thawed water. To disinfect the earth from dormant fungi, Fitosporin is diluted in water according to the instructions.

With the emergence of seedlings, the container lid is no longer closed. When 2-3 true leaves appear carry out a pick, distributing the sprouts with tweezers into separate cups. You need to be extremely careful, because you can easily damage a tiny fragile plant with a stem as thin as a blade of grass.

In the process of diving, it is necessary to monitor the root so that it does not bend upwards. To do this, you can make a hole in the ground with a stick. The sprout is planted to the same depth as in the container. After adaptation in a new place, the soil is filled up to the level of the cotyledon leaves, leaving the growth point free. When the long and thin stem is covered with earth, additional roots will appear from it.

How many strawberries grow from seeds? It sprouts almost the same way as strawberries. Another way of growing both crops is that the sprouts are simply huddled, that is, they shove up the soil, filling the stem. The growth point and leaves remain above the ground. In this case, the pick is carried out later, after the appearance of 3-4 pairs of real leaves. The seedlings will then be stronger, but the roots may intertwine. Then they are gently rinsed with water and use a fork to untangle.

Note!

After planting the sprouts, you need to constantly monitor the humidity level, harden the seedlings on the balconies at freezing temperatures. Feeding seedlings before planting in the ground is not carried out.

Planting seedlings in the ground

As soon as the frosts pass, a positive temperature is established, the seedlings are planted in the prepared soil in the garden. Do not forget about hardening the seedlings. In April, the containers are kept in a cool place for an hour, then for two hours, and after 7 days - all night at a temperature of 5-7 ° C. In late May and early June, seedlings are buried in the ground in prepared holes.

Some shoots may already be with flowers, they are pinched off so that the plant adapts better. Therefore, strawberries or strawberries from seeds at home in the first season may not give a large harvest, but the next year the berries will certainly appear in large quantities. The roots of seedlings are treated with a saline solution with copper sulfate from pests.

Seedling beds are not placed in the lowland so that it does not suffer from drafts. Wet areas with high groundwater levels are also not suitable. With one-sided planting, the beds are placed at a distance of 60-80 cm, and the plants are buried at a distance of 25 cm from each other. With a two-line planting, the distance between the beds is also 60-80 cm, and between plants it should be up to 40 cm. For weak bushes, the distance is reduced.

Important!

The roots of the sprout should not bend, they are buried vertically. The apical bud is placed on the surface of the earth. A deepening is made around the sprout and water is poured in up to 500 ml, then mulch is laid out from straw or sawdust, compost or humus.

A good harvest is always guaranteed if strawberries or strawberries grow in one place for no more than 3 years.

Some hobby gardeners are wondering how to grow strawberries from seeds, which generally requires certain knowledge, without which you will never get a harvest.

In today's article, we will give the information necessary for growing strawberries from seeds, which will be useful for both beginners and experienced gardeners who decide to test their skills in a new path.

Planting strawberry seeds is best in late February or early March. Some gardeners plant seeds at the end of December, which is important for areas with colder climates. Planting seeds within these terms will allow the seedlings to grow strong enough for further transplantation into open ground.

Moreover, if you plan to be on suburban area, you can plant strawberry seeds in May or June, but in this case, planting seedlings in open ground will take place in the hot summer months, which will require additional care in the form of timely shading and more frequent watering.

We do not recommend planting strawberry seeds at a later date, since the seedlings will have to be overexposed at home until next season, which is not suitable for all people.

Selection and processing of planting material

Having dealt with the timing of planting seeds at home, you should proceed to the direct selection of these very seeds.

To do right choice, see the list of the following items:

1. Before purchasing seeds, check with the seller if they can be grown in the conditions of your site (type of soil on your site). The overwhelming majority of strawberry varieties grow well and develop in soils of any type, but there are exceptions, which you need to find out about before planting seeds of a dubious variety;
2. Choose the varieties that best suit the climatic conditions your region. In addition, there are varieties that are resistant to certain diseases, but have a smaller yield, as well as varieties with a larger yield, but are susceptible to disease. Based on this, you should choose exactly the variety of strawberries that is right for you in these matters;
3. Decide in which position you will be growing strawberries. Modern varieties have both horizontally and vertically growing specimens;
4. Decide on the final taste of the berry itself, which can be sweet, tart, sour, as well as banana and pineapple.

The most popular strawberry varieties in the conditions of the CIS countries are the following samples:

1. Gigantella;
2. Masha;
3. Victoria;
4. Gum;
5. Anapolis;
6. Camarose;
7. Regina;
8. Fragora.

Strawberry seeds should be purchased in flower shops, or from trusted breeders of this culture. Often, the seeds from such suppliers are of high quality, as well as good germination. Before planting seeds, weed out all damaged, underdeveloped and abnormal appearance samples.

We do not recommend using seeds from strawberries sold in the store for food, as there is no reliable information as to which variety or hybrid it is, whether it will suit your growing conditions, and whether its seeds will bear fruit.

Having decided on the criteria for choosing seeds, you should talk about their direct preparation, which consists in observing the following points:

1. To improve and accelerate germination, seeds should be soaked in melt or rainwater for 2-3 days.
2. The soaked seeds are laid out on a damp cloth and placed in a plastic bag. The package is placed in a warm and bright place, while not allowing direct sunlight, and remains there until the seeds sprout. Check the fabric periodically and moisturize it.
3. If desired, before soaking the seeds, they can be treated with phytosporin, which will protect them from possible fungal and bacterial invasions that may occur when planting in open ground.
4. The seeds are germinated at a temperature of + 27-30 degrees. Seedlings are kept at a temperature of + 25-27 degrees.

The use of growth activators in the germination of strawberry seeds is not relevant, since the culture is distinguished by good germination.

For experienced gardeners, seeds can be germinated by the stratification method, when the container with the sown seeds is moistened, covered with cellophane, and placed in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks, then in a warm and bright place, which stimulates them to active growth, and the formation of the strongest seedlings.

Choice of capacity

It is best to plant sprouted strawberry seeds in plastic or wooden boxes, 50 cm long and 30 cm wide. Also, seeds can be planted in ordinary containers and cups, like seedlings of other plants, but this is important in cases where 2- 3 bushes of this berry, for indoor cultivation.

We recommend using the black plastic crates that sell fruits and vegetables at major grocery stores. At the bottom of such a box, a plastic film is placed, in which drainage holes are made. The box with the film is placed on a pallet, in which excess liquid will accumulate.

As for the container for planting already sprouted seedlings, here you can use ordinary containers for flowers, as well as deeper plastic cups, but this applies only to those seedlings that will later be transplanted into open ground.

If you plan to grow strawberries using the hydroponic method, special cardboard boxes will be an excellent purchase, ensuring the maximum planting density of this berry, and the ability to collect as much harvest as possible from the smallest possible area.

Soil preparation

The vast majority of strawberry varieties are unpretentious to the soil.

Despite this, to improve the rate of growth, development, and overall fruiting, it is recommended to prepare the soil in accordance with the following points:

1. Take 1 piece of turf land.
2. Take 1 part peat.
3. Take 1 part clean coarse river sand.
4. Mix everything until smooth.
5. Put the mass in the stove for 30 minutes, and ignite it at a temperature of +150 degrees in order to destroy all microbes and fungal spores.

You can also sow seeds and grow grown seedlings in soils purchased at a flower shop, for which a fruit and berry soil mixture would be an excellent option.

General rules for sowing seeds

Regardless of which way you grow strawberries, there are general rules planting seeds that are listed below:

1. To obtain maximum germination, strawberry seeds should be planted in a warm room, the temperature of which does not fall below +25 degrees.
2. Sprouted seeds are planted in a container with soil, to a depth of no more than 1 cm.
3. Sowing seeds in soil, which was previously calcined in the oven (relevant for soil taken from nature).
4. Seeds whose seedlings will dive into open ground should be treated with phytosporin, which will protect the root system and sprouts from infection by fungi and bacteria in the first months of growth.
5. It is better to use the seeds of hybrid species, since they are most focused on seed propagation.
6. Sow germinated seeds, which will greatly increase their germination, and significantly reduce the germination time.
7. Seeds can be stratified at will (not recommended for beginners).

Instruction for sowing in a container

Sprouted seeds are most often planted in containers or boxes.

For correct fit seeds in these containers, adhere to the following points:

1. Take the desired container, the height of which will be at least 10 cm.
2. Treat the container with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, or wipe it with a cloth dampened with alcohol. Dry the container well.
3. Place a plastic bag at the bottom of the container, and punch holes through both the bag and the container itself. In general, if the container is plastic, you can do without cellophane, but if it is wooden, in order to avoid rotting of the bottom, we recommend using a film.
4. Pour the previously prepared soil mixture into the container, the layer thickness of which should be about 7-8 cm.
5. Lightly compact the soil layer and moisten it with a spray bottle.
6. Take the sprouted seeds with tweezers and place them in a container, on top of the moistened soil.
7. Lightly press the seeds to the soil, but do not deepen, and cover them with a layer of soil, the thickness of which should not exceed 5-10 mm. If you are planting seeds that have not sprouted, they should not be covered at all. Non-germinated seeds should be lightly pressed into the soil and left to germinate in a bright and warm place. Place seeds 2.4 cm apart.
8. Place the container in a bright and warm place, periodically spraying the soil with a spray bottle. If you have sown seeds that have not sprouted, you can cover the container with foil before the first shoots appear. If the seeds were viable, just moisten the soil in time, keeping it moist.

Instructions for sowing in peat tablets

Sowing seeds in peat tablets should be carried out in accordance with the following points:

1. Purchase peat tablets from a flower shop that are approximately 2.4 cm in size.
2. Fill the peat tablets with melt or rain water and let them infuse for a period of 2 days.
3. After the peat tablets have grown in size, place them on a pallet or in a plastic box.
4. In each of the tablets, make a small indentation, and place one seed there, lightly pressing it into the tablet.
5. After all the seeds have settled on the peat tablets, the container is covered with a plastic bag and placed on the windowsill.
6. Spray peat tablets with a spray bottle periodically to keep them from drying out.
7. After the shoots appear, the film must be removed.
8. Keep the seedlings on tablets until the first roots appear through it.

Remember, sowing seeds in peat tablets can be done without first germinating them. Otherwise, the peat tablets will have to be left open, which will complicate the process of moistening them.

Picking

If you grow seedlings on peat tablets, after the first roots begin to appear through them, transplant them into a separate container (pots, boxes, cups), observing the distance between the shoots of 3-4 cm.In the case of growing in cups, for each cup plant 1 sprout. Seedlings are planted in a container with soil, the recipe for which we discussed in the middle of the article.

The picking of seedlings into open ground is carried out when it has at least 5 leaves. If you grow seedlings in the traditional way, initially using a container with soil, after the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, transplant them into larger and deeper containers, where they will grow until 5 leaves appear, and then also pick them open priming.

It is necessary to dive strawberry seedlings into prepared beds, located in 2 rows, and having a distance of 30 cm between them.The depth of the beds should be equal to the depth of the container in which the seedlings grew, for example, the glass has a depth of 15 cm, respectively, the bed should have a similar depth, + -1 cm.

Carefully transfer the sprout into the prepared beds, along with the earth cake on the root system. Cover the planted seedling with earth so that the surface of the seedling soil is not covered with new soil.

After planting the seedlings, water each seedling with 0.5 liters of water diluted with an organic stimulant such as AgriTecno Fertilizantes. After fertilizing the seedlings, the soil around them should be mulched with humus. The mulch layer should not exceed 1 cm.

Remember, if your beds are located in straight lines sunbeams, for the first few days, they should be shaded in the middle of the day, so that there is a smooth adaptation of the shoots to the new place of growth.

Follow-up care

Subsequent care for transplanted seedlings into open ground is reduced to observing the following points:

1. Water regularly, every 2-3 days, depending on weather conditions.
2. Slightly loosen the surface of the soil after watering, preventing it from compacting and settling.
3. Remove weeds.
4. Treat with insecticide if necessary.

As for fertilizers, they are applied only after the first harvest. The best fertilizer for strawberries is considered to be 2 tablespoons of chicken manure diluted in 10 liters of water. Melon fertilizer is completely natural, and the berries processed with it will be absolutely safe for human consumption.

As the winter season approaches, at the end of September the bushes are covered with a thin layer of humus, the thickness of which does not exceed 1 cm. The beds are insulated with straw, fallen leaves or sawdust. If your area is experiencing heavy autumn showers or gusty winds, you can additionally cover the strawberry bushes with a plastic bag, with holes pre-made in it for air circulation.

Output

Based on the information in this article, it becomes clear that almost every beginner can germinate, grow and care for strawberry seeds at home, with the desire and hard work. Remember, you can sow and plant strawberries in almost any climatic zone of the CIS countries, which makes it an excellent purchase for any summer resident and gardener!

Strawberry - a favorite delicacy in the country, the seedlings of which can be grown at home. Growing strawberries from seeds - troublesome and long process, but as a result you will grow strong and healthy seedlings with excellent varietal qualities.

Let's consider in detail: when to sow strawberry seeds for seedlings, how to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds at home, picking strawberry seedlings.

In February, sowing of vegetable and horticultural crops for seedlings begins, such as peppers, eggplants, strawberries.

Why grow strawberries from seeds

Strawberries are more often propagated using purchased seedlings or by rooting a mustache. But it happens that the purchased seedlings grows of a completely different variety.

More reliable grow strawberries from your own seeds, since seeds purchased from the seller do not always grow of the promised variety.

The seeds are harvested from well-developed bushes that yield a large harvest and are not damaged by anything. Seeds are harvested from ripe berries, their middle part and base - there they are larger, they are distinguished by good germination.

Seeds can propagate any sort of strawberry except hybrids.

When to sow strawberries for seedlings in 2019 according to the lunar calendar

1. February - from 6 to 16
2. March - from 7 to 20, auspicious days – 8, 14, 15
3. April - from 6 to 18, favorable days - 10, 11
4. May - from 6 to 18, favorable days - 10, 16

Sowing dates for strawberry seedlings

Sow strawberry seeds for seedlings in late February - early March... For growing for sale, sowing is carried out at an earlier date, but the illumination of the seedlings should be mandatory.

Without additional lighting, it is better not to sow seeds before March, otherwise the seedlings will die from lack of sunlight.

Seed preparation for sowing

Before sowing, place strawberry seeds in 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate... After that, rinse the seeds well in clean water.

The next step will be stratification - put the seeds on damp cotton pads or cloth. Put the different varieties separately. Put all the seeds in a container, close the lid and put in a dark place for 2 days.

Then send the seeds in the container to the lower shelf of the refrigerator for 2 weeks. Seeds should be regularly ventilated and sprayed with water.

Dry the seeds a little before sowing.

Sowing strawberry seeds for seedlings

Finished seeds can be sown as in soil in a containerand in peat cups.

The soil for growing strawberry seedlings should be light, not oversaturated with fertilizers. For those who make soil with their own hands - 2 parts of sod land and 1 part of peat and sand.

Mix all the ingredients and be sure to disinfect in the oven for 20-30 minutes at a temperature of 150 degrees.

Place the disinfected soil in a warm place for 2 weeks so that beneficial bacteria reappear in it.

Seedling soil put in a container, compact and moisten a little. Spread the seeds over the surface at 3-4 cm intervals using a damp toothpick. Do not cover the seeds with earth, they germinate in the light.

We cover the container with a transparent lid (there should be small holes for air exchange) and put it in a warm, bright place (without sunlight).

Growing strawberries in peat tablets

Peat tablets already contain all the essential nutrients. The advantages of this growing method are that the seedlings do not need to be dived, the root system develops freely, the seedlings develop well.

Place peat tablets in a container, fill with water to make them grow. Divide the prepared seeds into tablets with a toothpick. Cover the container with peat tablets with a transparent lid and place in a warm place.

Ventilate the crops regularly, remove the formed condensation from the lid so that mold does not develop. The lid is removed only after the first true leaves appear.

Video - Strawberries in peat tablets

Growing strawberry seedlings at home

Crops needed keep in a warm, bright place, monitor the amount of moisture in the container, ventilate at least 1 time per day. Seedlings appear in 2 weeks.

The first week, seedlings need a temperature of 23-25 \u200b\u200bdegrees, and after a week 15-18 so that the seedlings do not stretch out.

The cover or lid from the container is completely removed only after the formation of 2 true leaves, the temperature should be 18-20 degrees.

After removing the cover, the seedlings require even more light, additional lighting may be required. Seedlings should not fall into drafts; during this period of seedling growth, the temperature is reduced to 15 degrees.

Watering strawberry seedlings

Use a medical syringe or pipette to water, water each plant under the root. The water should be kept at room temperature. When watering, try not to get on the strawberry leaves - black spots may appear.

Watering is done early in the morning or after sunset. Strawberries are afraid of waterlogging and can be affected by a black leg - rot of the root collar of seedlings. This disease manifests itself at the stage from germination to the formation of 2 true leaves.

Lighting of strawberry seedlings

Seedlings in winter require additional lighting. For these purposes, use photo lamps or lED lights, fluorescent lamps. Lighting should work for 13-14 hours, since even at 12 noon in February, the lighting is not as intense as in spring.

Install a lamp above the seedlings at a distance of 20 cm. It is also convenient to purchase a timer socket that will turn on the lights at 6 in the morning and turn off at 23 hours.