How to build a staircase to the attic. Convenient stairs to the attic in the house: types of designs. Calculating the angle of inclination

If your house has an attic, it can be turned into a cozy and functional room for rest or work. This will save you from the need to build additional outbuildings and floors. The primary step in the arrangement of the attic is the installation of a ladder, thanks to which you can easily and safely climb into the attic. We will tell you about the types of attic stairs, what material to give preference to and whether it is possible to install the structure yourself.

Construction of attic stairs

Based on how much free space is available in your home for the installation of the structure, you can choose completely different products. Consider all currently existing types of attic stairs:

"Duck step". Steps with cutouts from one edge are installed through one.
Retractable with sunroof. Used in case of limited space. The stairs go up and the entrance to the attic is closed with a hatch.
Screw. A great option for climbing to the attic when there is a shortage free space. The design is a support axis with steps fixed in a spiral.
Straight staircase with one central beam. The steps are fixed in the center to the support beam.
Direct single-march. The most common version of the stairs, despite the fact that it takes up a lot of space.
Turning two-march. A kind of single-flight staircase, which has an additional turn in order to save space.

Varieties in the photo

Rotary double-flight stairs are used in rooms with a small area Straight single-flight stairs have high strength and are easy to manufacture Straight stairs with one bearing beam are the most simple design The spiral staircase looks aesthetically pleasing and takes up little space
Retractable staircase retracts to the attic when not needed

As you can see, there are plenty of variations of this product. However, owners of private houses often prefer simple march structures. As a support in them, stringers, bolts or a spinal structure can act. IN country houses Usually they install stairs on stringers, as they are considered the most durable and strong. As an example, consider the device of a straight staircase erected parallel to the wall. In addition, the design is relatively simple to manufacture and any owner with basic technical knowledge and construction skills can install such a product.

Important: The purchase of a finished staircase is not always justified, because the internal dimensions of private houses often vary. Therefore, work on site in this case is the most correct solution. So you can take into account any deviations and correct inaccuracies.

Before proceeding to the workflow, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with all the terms that are used when installing stairs.

Structural elements of the stairs to the attic

Kosour - a supporting element of the structure, which is a strong beam (metal or wooden) with special teeth under the steps. Most often, mid-flight stairs have two stringers. But in the case of erecting a large structure, the width of which exceeds 1.2 m, a third (central) beam should be installed.

Important: The minimum thickness of the kosour made of timber should be 50 mm, and the width should be 250 mm. This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure.

Tread - the horizontal surface of the step, that is, the place on which you stand. This structural element is often made from boards with a thickness of 25–50 mm. At the same time, the greater the width of the steps, more precisely, the distance between the stringers, the stronger the boards need to be used. The tread should not deform under the weight of a person. All steps have a small ledge hanging over the underlying tread. Its value should be in the range from 20 to 40 mm. The upper edge of the steps is processed with a grinder in order to prevent the appearance of chips.

The riser is the vertical distance between adjacent steps. In wooden stairs, it is often covered with some kind of lightweight material, for example, plywood up to 15 mm thick. However, you can not close the gap. In the latter case, you will reduce the installation time of the stairs, the consumption of material, and also greatly simplify the process of washing and cleaning the flights of stairs.

Material selection and tool preparation

Since we are making a ladder on stringers with our own hands, we will use wood as a material. Metal structures are also good, because they have high strength and have an attractive appearance. But to implement such a project, it will take welding machine and ability to work with it. For the construction of wooden stairs, coniferous and hardwoods are excellent. Yes, from coniferous trees most commonly used:

The most preferred option is larch or cedar. These breeds have a chic appearance, are easy to process and are little susceptible to decay.
Spruce. Also good lumber, but has a lot of knots. Therefore, additional surface treatment is required.
Pine is the most a budget option. At the same time, its main advantage is ease of processing.

Concerning hardwood trees, then the oak is the leader, followed by beech and ash.

Helpful Hint: Before buying lumber, check that there are no damages (cracks, chips, bends) on it. Also, do not purchase wood affected by grinder insects.

In addition to wooden beams, for the construction of stairs you will need such Consumables like varnish, paint and screws. And, of course, for the job you will need the following tools:

wood saw or circular saw;
jigsaw;
building level;
metal corner;
pencil;
drill;
grinder or sandpaper;
wood glue;
paint brushes.

Before you start assembling the stairs to the attic with your own hands, you need to study the installation features of the structure and perform a competent calculation.

Installation rules

The dependence of the size of the steps on the angle of inclination of the stairs

The key point in the construction of the structure is the observance of the angle of inclination. If the latter is less than 20 °, then such a staircase will look more like a ramp. With a structure angle of more than 50°, you can only go down it backwards. A tilt of 30°–38° is considered correct. But for the attic, it is usually increased to 45 °. The dimensions of the steps and the riser are determined depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs. So, the smaller the angle of inclination, the deeper the tread, and the smaller the riser; the steeper the angle of inclination, the greater the distance between the steps, and the less their depth. However, there are some limitations:

the maximum and minimum step heights are 20 cm and 12 cm, respectively;
the largest and smallest depths are 38 cm and 30 cm, respectively;

You can see that if we add up the extreme dimensions of the tread and riser, we get 50 cm. This value can be slightly reduced - up to 45 cm. For example, in most multi-storey buildings, the depth of the step on concrete flights of stairs is about 32 cm, while the height is 17 cm

There are also special calculation formulas and diagrams by which you can determine the ideal ratio of these dimensions. However, these methods are used only in standard design. Due to the fact that when building a staircase in a private house with your own hands, it is rather difficult to withstand all these parameters, many take verified approximate values as a basis:

If the angle of inclination is 33°–37°, the height of the riser is 16 cm;
at an angle of 38°–42° - 18 cm;
at an angle of 45 ° - 20 cm.

As for the width of the flight of stairs, a value of 80 cm is considered optimal. If more than two people live in the house, then this distance can be increased to one meter. In addition, there is a requirement for the design of the passage height, which must be at least 2 m.

Choosing the location of the stairs

After reviewing the requirements for the installation of stairs, you can proceed to the selection of the installation location of the product. Perfect option- this is the location of the exit to the attic in a separate small room, for example, an insulated vestibule. This will allow you to build a ladder of any size, and also provide good thermal insulation. If there is no vestibule, then the ladder should be installed against the far wall. So, the design will not interfere with walking around the room and will not take up much free space.

Creating a hatch

You should get a smooth through hole, which will become the entrance to the attic

Work on the installation of stairs to the attic begins with the implementation of the inlet - the hatch. The first step is to make markings on the floor of the attic. In this case, it is advisable not to get on the floor beam. If there is no flooring in the attic, then determining the presence of a supporting element is a little easier. However, there are cases when beams cannot be determined visually. For example, if at the stage of building a house a layer of insulation and waterproofing was laid in the ceiling. Therefore, if the beams are not visible, you can determine the optimal location of the hatch using a perforator with a long thin drill. Perform several vertical drillings in the ceiling, thereby sketching out the outline of the future entrance to the attic. Then draw with a pencil the exact location of the hatch.

The next step involves cutting the ceiling. To do this, use a circular saw. Cutting should be done very carefully and with strong gloves so as not to injure your hands. The fact is that hardware can get caught in the ceiling. It is also desirable to put on the saw blade with the hardest possible teeth. After cutting the ceiling, remove the layer of thermal insulation material and remove all unnecessary details of the ceiling covering. As a result, you should get a smooth through hole, which will become the entrance to the attic.

Important: You can proceed to the calculation of the amount of materials only after creating the hatch. Make any measurements with a non-existent " front door» to the top floor - it makes no sense. After all, the features of the floor and the location of the load-bearing beams can affect the installation location of the stairs and its dimensions.

Marking and cutting stringers

The process of creating a kosour

Stretch the rope along the wall from the far side of the hatch to the base of the structure on the ground floor. Determine the number of steps by slightly varying the slope. The obtuse angle between the rope and the floor is the angle at which the steps should be placed on the stringer.
On the support beam, apply the appropriate marking of the steps and cut out the grooves.
Shorten the stringer board according to the length of the previously stretched rope. The cut is made taking into account the selected slope. At the same time, it is necessary to shorten the beam so that its lower edge is not on the floor, but on the stop (bar) cut into the floor.
From above, insert a fastener into the kosour or leave a small protrusion in advance. The spike is necessary for attaching the base board to the floor beam.

Helpful Hint: You can make grooves on the stringer in another way. Attach the plank to the wall along the stretched rope. In accordance with the angle of inclination, draw steps on the support beam using a building level.

The marking of the remaining beams is carried out in a similar way. In order for the design to be symmetrical and not skewed, complete the second and third (if necessary) stringers, strictly observing all the dimensions of the first.

Ladder assembly

Installation of a wooden staircase to the attic

First of all, the base of the stairs is installed. Using a drill and self-tapping screws, screw the stringer to the pre-installed thrust bar. The spikes should be inserted into the prepared holes, smeared with wood glue. To thoroughly fix the structure on the stop, use metal corners and plates. The board adjacent to the wall is immediately attached at the top.
Steps are installed from the bottom up. When preparing the treads, there will be some errors in length. That is why the second stringer should be attached to the ceiling only after the installation of the last step. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws. And do not forget to coat all the joints with glue. If you plan to install risers, then they also need to be screwed, starting from the first step.
Railing installation. The end post is placed first. Screw it to one of the first steps from the bottom with a powerful self-tapping screw. Install the balusters in the same way, you can use 2 pieces per step. In this case, the racks must have a strictly vertical position. The procedure continues until the very last step, on which the pillar is again placed. After that, we install railings on balusters and poles.
Finally, we finish the surface. For this we use a special protective compound or varnish, which will make the design more aesthetic.

The process of installing stairs to the attic cannot be called a simple task, however, it is not a very difficult task either. If you want to build a reliable and durable structure yourself, strictly adhere to all the above rules and recommendations.

When building a house, an equally important stage is the arrangement of the attic to increase living space. True, you first have to build a staircase that will help connect two adjacent floors. And you can do it yourself.

Choosing the location of the future structure

Before do-it-yourself attic, you need to pick up for her the best place. Usually the entrance to the attic is made from the hall of the building or the living room, but if the room is open, then it can be done from the street.

Do-it-yourself mansard is considered an excellent option for country estates, as it allows you to save space inside the house. Another similar design is suitable for those who plan to permanently live in the attic. Stairs made of wood or metal with luxurious lace railings will not be able to spoil the appearance of the house. They, on the contrary, will give it a European look.

The only drawback of external structures is that they will have to be constantly tinted and treated with anti-corrosion agents. In addition, you will definitely need to install on the steps.

An internal staircase to the attic floor, made by hand, is a more common design, since it is more convenient to use. In addition, it is not necessary in cold weather to climb to the attic across the street. Such a design inside the house can decorate any interior, especially if it has an original and attractive look. The disadvantages of this method of going up can only be attributed to the fact that such a structure can take a lot of living space.

But the main thing is that the attic staircase, made with your own hands, meets the following requirements:

did not occupy a lot of necessary and usable area;
when choosing its location, the total height of the floor was taken into account;
had a comfortable and safe lift.

Varieties of structures for lifting and lowering to the attic

The attic staircase (with your own hands), the types of which may differ not only in location, but also in the type of construction, has its advantages and disadvantages.

A folding staircase, as a rule, is made if the attic room is rarely used, otherwise it will wear out instantly, constantly requiring expensive maintenance and repair. The main advantage of such attic stairs- simplicity of design.

Screw structures are usually mounted in houses with a limited area. They have low rates of convenience and lifting safety. On top of that, a spiral staircase should not be installed if old people and children will live in the house, since it is difficult to move along it.

Simple is very popular. Such structures are considered the most durable and reliable, in addition, they differ from others in their attractive appearance and high safety.

The choice of material for the future design

You must always focus on interior design premises when buying the material from which the do-it-yourself attic staircase will be made. The assembly instructions will help you quickly assemble and install it. But remember that hardly metal or glass construction will fit into a room decorated with clapboard, and wooden - into a room decorated in a modern style.

Most often, attic stairs are made of metal or wood. But stainless steel structures are still more popular because they have a long service life and are perfectly combined with other materials. But wooden stairs are easier to do with your own hands due to the ease of processing.

More suitable option for the attic there will be a staircase made of concrete. True, it will be difficult and difficult to make it yourself, in addition, additional decoration costs will be required. However, if the house has a large hall, then such a staircase will fit perfectly. Concrete structures have a long service life, are easily repaired and can cope with high loads.

Manufacture of a hatch for stairs

The first step is to mark up the attic floor to avoid hitting the beam. In the absence of flooring, this is much easier to do, but the floor elements are not always available for inspection, because most often during construction, the ceiling of the upper floor is immediately waterproofed and insulated. If they cannot be reached, then to determine best location You will need to use a long thin drill. To find out the contour of the future hatch, it is necessary to make several holes in the ceiling. After that, it remains only to draw the surface.

To cut the floor covering you will need a circular saw. In this case, it is desirable to use disks with hard alloy teeth, since fasteners often come across on the way. As a result of the work, a through hole should be obtained, it will become the entrance to the attic.

Calculation of the size and number of steps

Mansard staircase, made by hand, - rational solution, which should begin with preliminary calculations. For comfortable operation, it is recommended to adhere to the following indicators:

the width of the step should not exceed 28-30 cm, and the height - 14-16 cm;
the width of the ladder structure should be at least 1 meter;
the size of the winder steps in the narrow part should be about 20 cm.

If you can’t do the calculation yourself, then it’s better to ask for help from a design company.

Calculating the angle of inclination

When constructing an attic staircase, it is necessary to adhere to the standards. Therefore, a vertical passage should be made no larger than 2 meters from the ceiling to the step. This also applies to the distance between the strapping of the upper hatch to the attic and the step.

The angle of inclination of the structure depends on the height of the lift. For example, a staircase with a slope of less than 35° takes up a lot of free space. But on a design with an inclination of more than 55 °, it will be very difficult to move around, since you will have to go down backwards. It is better to design a functional element that provides vertical connections with a slope of 35-45°. It turns out the most comfortable is the attic staircase made in this way with your own hands.

How to make braids?

The main details of the staircase structure are stringers. As these load-bearing beams, boards with sawn notches for steps can be used. They should be approximately 50 mm thick and approximately 250 mm wide. Most often, two beams are used, but when more than 120 cm is made, an additional stringer is installed.

First of all, you need to stretch the twine along the wall from ceiling attic to the beginning of the ladder structure. Then, changing the slope of the rope, you should check the number of expected steps and the length of the carrier beam, comparing with the calculations.

Then you need to measure the angles that have arisen between flooring and twine, and also between the rope and the ceiling. At the place where the stringer is fixed to the ceiling, a protrusion of at least 10 cm should be left to secure the structure to the attic floor.

After that, the stringer is fixed to the surface of the wall and the attachment points of the steps are marked on it. To determine the verticality and horizontality of the lines for the seats, you should use the building level. The board must be detached from the wall and notches should be made according to the markings. It is necessary to ensure that the cuts are even, and the level of the grooves is suitable for the device steps. The second kosour is cut out similarly to the first.

Do-it-yourself attic staircase: installation

First, the ladder base is mounted on a bar at the bottom. Then, load-bearing beams are fixed to it, and at the top, spikes are inserted into the recesses, previously lubricated with carpentry glue. The resulting structure is connected with metal corners. To strengthen the attic staircase, as a rule, they are used. With the help of these fasteners, additional load-bearing beams are connected in several places.

Installation of steps

They should be installed from the bottom tread. Steps can be fixed with self-tapping screws. Joints must be treated with wood glue.

When installing the riser, treads are screwed on the back of the ladder structure. After that, they are sewn up to the top of the stringer, and the side line of the steps should be ennobled with a board or plywood.

Handrail installation

If the attic staircase, made with your own hands, has a width of more than 120 cm, then the railing is not needed on it. It's easy to make them if you want. To do this, vertical posts are bolted to the beams, and then fences are already attached to them. Optimal about 85 cm.

It is good if you think over the layout of the house in advance, which will include the presence attic floor- a rather profitable and practical element that helps to effectively manage the internal space. However, the owner of the house does not always have such an opportunity, most often an already rebuilt building with an attic, which has to be converted into an attic, is at the disposal.

And the first thing you should take care of is the stairs to the attic, the dimensions of which can be calculated according to this instruction.

Note! If you take on handmade production stairs, its design must meet the basic requirements.

These requirements include:

high level of strength;
ease of use;
ease of manufacture;
safety when climbing to the attic floor;
comfort of use.

Planning and calculations

The planning stage of the future design consists of several points, each of which should be carefully calculated.

The planning stage includes:

choice of installation type;
selection of materials;
choice of type of ladder construction.

Note! All calculations should be entrusted to an experienced designer.

But if you nevertheless take all the work on yourself, the answer to the question of how to calculate the size of the stairs to the attic will consist of answers to a number of questions related to its design and installation in your conditions.

First, determine for yourself how the stairs to the attic floor will be located. by the most in a simple way to solve this problem will be the installation of a staircase from the side of the street.

The simplicity of this method lies in the fact that you will not care at all about the size of the opening under the stairs to the attic, since the need for it is completely eliminated. In addition, you do not have to adjust the presence of the hatch to the interior of the room.

Although this approach has its drawbacks:

the internal placement of the stairs is more practical;
the structure is exposed to the negative effects of weather conditions;
restrictions are placed on the use of some materials that are not suitable for outdoor placement;
when operating a wet or icy staircase, not only the level of comfort decreases, but also the safety of climbing to the attic;
you have to go outside in order to climb to the attic floor;
a staircase with a street location implies the presence of an additional front door, which must be reliable in order to ensure the safety of your home from intruders.

Selection of material and type of construction

After you decide on the installation site of the structure, you need to start selecting suitable materials. If the stairs to the attic, the size, diagram and photos of which are given in the figures, correspond to the parameters of your room, then you can safely take on wood. It is best if you choose hardwoods.

Wood, as a material for the manufacture of stairs, is quite easy to handle and malleable, it lends itself perfectly to processing with the usual tools that can be found in almost every home. As a result, you get an attractive design that will perfectly fit into the interior of the room.

Note! Before use, all lumber must go through an exposure procedure: for at least three days, the wood must lie in the room in which you will install the staircase itself so that the material can adapt to the conditions of the room. It is best to use wood after chamber drying.

Space saving plays an important role in choosing the right design. In addition to complying with all basic safety standards, as a result of the appearance of stairs in your home, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room should not be much concealed or shaded. The safest design option for lifting takes up the most space, these designs have a gentle angle of inclination.

You can make a staircase, as shown in the photo below, which shows a rotary structure with corner placement. As you can see, it takes up minimal space in the room and does not obscure it from the light at all.

Spiral staircases also help save space in the room. They look quite impressive, but at the same time they have a design that is too intricate to manufacture, and the descent along such steps is not as comfortable as in the case of ordinary mid-flight stairs.

Parameters that define the stairs:

Rise height level - the distance between the floor and the ceiling, together with the thickness of the threshold of the upper floor.

Area - this indicator will determine the angle of inclination of the stairs, as well as the width of its design and the parameters of the dimensions of the hatch, which will go to the attic floor.

The tread width indicator is calculated so that when a person climbs the stairs, the leg can fully rest on the step, and at the same time there are no extra unused centimeters left. The optimal tread width is three dozen centimeters, the march width is from 80 to 100 cm, and the riser height should not go beyond the range of 15-19 cm.

It is these parameters that are used in the calculation of the stairs and its further manufacture. Assembly is quite simple, the main thing is to complete all the parts and connect them in a reliable way in the required sequence.

Buying a finished staircase to the attic is not always the right decision. The internal dimensions of the premises are different, and the design may simply not fit in size. Individual order- expensive pleasure. Therefore, many people think about making stairs with their own hands.

Working locally is the best course of action. This is how it will be possible to take into account any nuances of the layout of the house and eliminate inaccuracies in time. Correctly designing a wooden staircase is within the power of any craftsman with the slightest carpentry skills.

Variants of stairs to the attic: advantages and disadvantages of the main types

The device of the attic room - current and effective method expansion of the living area of a private house. However, in this case, it is required to resolve the issue of lifting to the upper floor. Mistakes made during the design and installation of the staircase structure can “zero out” all the advantages of the attic space. An ill-conceived placement and type of construction can "eat" additional meters acquired during the arrangement of a living room.

Based on the location of the stairs relative to the house, two types of structures are distinguished: external and internal.

An external staircase can be used as temporary or permanent. The outer structure has some features:

The attic floor with a separate entrance allows you to delimit the living space. This is especially true if the owner of the "attic" room wants to go to his room without disturbing the rest of the household.
An external staircase does not clutter up the space inside the premises, which is very important for houses with a small area.
It should be borne in mind that intruders and thieves often try to penetrate through the external stairs. For home improvement in an unguarded holiday village, it is better to choose internal compact structures.

The internal layout of the stairs is the most common option. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe house allows, then such a design - optimal solution. The attic staircase can become an interior decoration, and in winter time to climb to the second floor, you will not have to go across the street. A possible disadvantage is the use of usable area.

According to the type of construction, there are five main types of stairs to the attic:

Comparing the pros and cons, taking into account the dimensions of the room and the existing circumstances, it will be possible to determine the optimal design of the stairs for the house.

The device stairs to the attic: basic terms

The main structural elements of the stairs are: kosour, tread and risers.

Kosour - load-bearing beam. In fact, this is a board on which fragments are sawn out for the installation of steps. In the manufacture of wooden stairs, the thickness of the stringer should not be less than 50 mm, the minimum allowable width is 250 mm. As a rule, two load-bearing beams are used. An additional kosour is mounted if the width of the attic staircase exceeds 1.2 meters.

Tread - the horizontal part of the step, which is stepped on while walking. When developing a drawing, it must be taken into account that the greater the distance between load-bearing beams, the stronger the steps should be. For the manufacture of these parts, boards with a thickness of 25-50 mm are used. The treads have an overhang over the appropriate step in the amount of 20-40 mm.

Riser - the vertical part between the treads. This structural element usually does not carry a load. In some versions of the stairs, there are no risers at all - such a rise visually seems easier.

The choice of material for the manufacture of wooden stairs to the attic

The staircase structure is a full-fledged part of the interior, and in the case of an external staircase to the attic, it is an important architectural element. Choosing the design and material of the stairs, you need to focus on the interior of the house.

wooden stairs suitable for many styles and easily fit into the interior. In addition, wood is easier to work with than other materials. Therefore, if planned self-manufacturing stairs, it is better to choose wood.

Important! The tree needs a protective treatment that increases the resistance of the material to moisture and fire.

You can build a ladder from both coniferous and hardwood. The ideal option from conifers is cedar and larch. The wood looks good, is easy to process and practically does not rot.

Spruce is slightly inferior in its characteristics. Its main disadvantage is the presence of a large number of knots. It is easy to work with pine, an additional plus of wood is an affordable cost.

Of hardwoods, oak is best suited for creating stairs. In second place in terms of performance is beech, and in third is ash.

Metal attic stairs emphasize the individuality of the design of the house. The construction is very strong and reliable. You can give the metal any color or order chrome plating - the decision depends on the style of the attic and the entire room.

It is quite difficult to build a metal staircase on your own - you will need a welding machine and experience working with it.

stone or concrete stairs- heavyweights that visually burden the interior of the house. It is better to build such a lift outside the house. Subsequently, the stairs can be plastered and painted in a suitable shade.

How to make a staircase to the attic: step-by-step installation of a marching structure

Choosing a place to install the stairs

To install the stairs, you need to determine the most optimal place:

It is optimal if the entrance to the attic is located in private room tambura type. This will allow you to equip the staircase with convenient dimensions and provide additional thermal insulation of the room. If necessary, the vestibule can simply be closed and the cold air from the attic will not enter the lower floor. This is convenient if the attic is used as a living room only in the summer.
In the absence of a vestibule, it is better to erect a lifting structure near the far wall of the room. This arrangement saves usable space, and the steps will not interfere with walking around the room.
When planning the installation of folding steps, it is better to provide not just a passage, but a closing hatch in the ceiling - this will help minimize the heat loss of the room.

Calculation of stairs and drawing up a drawing

There are certain norms that determine the permissible values of the main parameters of the stairs. The manufacture of structures in compliance with the established dimensions guarantees safety and ease of movement on the stairs. The following rules must be adhered to:

the width of the stairs should not be less than 80-100 cm;
comfortable step width - 20-32 cm (optimally - 30 cm);
narrow part of the winder - at least 10 cm;
riser height - 15-19 cm;
the slope of the marching stairs is 20-40 °.

Approximate procedure for calculating the dimensions of the stairs:

Measure the height of the floor - the difference between the level of the finished floor of the lower floor and the attic. Let's say the value is 250 cm.
Determine the height and number of steps. To do this, the height of the rise should be divided by the height of the riser (18 cm), that is: 250/18 = 13.88 pieces. Since fractional numbers are not suitable, then 13.88 must be rounded up to 14 pieces. Accordingly, the actual height of the steps will not be 18 cm, but 17.85 cm (250/14).
Calculate the length of the march. If we take the width of the steps at 27 cm, then the total length of the march will be 405 cm (14 * 27).
Based on the calculations made, make a drawing and markup.
Then measure the distance between the edges of the attic floor. Mark the lines on the drawing.
Measure the distance from the edge of the attic floor to the steps of the stairs. According to GOST, this value must be at least 185 cm for unhindered movement up the stairs. If this size is smaller, then the length of the march must be reduced by increasing the height of the steps and reducing their number.
The calculation of stringers is carried out according to the formula: step height + step length * 4.76. That is: 4.05 + 2.5 * 4.76 \u003d 4.75 m.
The width of the stringers should be doubled over size riser, that is: 17.85 * 2 = 35.7 cm.

Stair Assembly Order

Prepare boards for stringers - they must be bought with a small margin. For example, with the required stringer length of 4.75 m, you need to take a board 5 m long. Mark the slots on the stringers using a joiner's corner. Draw places for cutting steps and number them.

Since the calculations were performed without taking into account the thickness of the boards, this value must be taken into account when cutting the lower part of the stringer.

Important! After cutting the stringers, they must be compared with each other - they must match exactly, otherwise it will not work to assemble a solid staircase.

The next step is cutting out the platform beam. The width of the beam is calculated as follows: the width of the stairs (90 cm) + double the thickness of the stringer + 14 cm (depending on the parameters of the stairs). So, according to the above example, the platform beam is: 90 + 2 * 5 + 14 \u003d 114 cm. You will need two such beams.

In the prepared beams, make cuts, stepping back from the edge by 7 cm. The width of the cuts should correspond to the thickness of the stringer. The beams are then fixed to the floor with anchors.

Install stringers in the grooves and fasten them to the beams with studs or dowels. Kosour, which is joined near the wall, fasten to it with anchors. Then steps and risers are installed. The fixation of structural elements is carried out in one of the ways: by cutting, screws or dowels.

The final stage is the installation of balusters and the installation of the handrail.

Installation of a spiral staircase to the attic

The design of a spiral staircase has a number of features that must be considered when designing and installing:

V spiral staircases usually no risers;
when people move, the middle of the steps is subjected to the main load, so the width of this part must be at least 20 cm;
the narrowest part of the step should not be less than 10 cm;
the optimal diameter of the screw structure is 220 cm;
the branches of the steps should be at a distance of about 2 meters from each other;
steps are located with a slight overlap - this provides additional structural strength, the edges of adjacent steps are connected by brackets.

The assembly sequence of the spiral staircase:

Support stand installation. TO wooden floor the beam is fixed with special fasteners, to the cement - it is concreted with stretch marks.
Cut holes in the treads and "put" them on the support post.
Divide the steps between each other with bushings of the desired height. Place safety washers between steps and bushings.
Distribute the steps according to the plan and fix with brackets.
Install railings and handrails.

Staircase to the attic in a private house: photo

Staircase to the attic: the dimensions of the structure allow efficient use of space. Under the stairs there is a built-in kitchenette and a library.

Compact stairs to the attic, installed in the corner - best option for small spaces.

Metal outdoor staircase to the attic: photo

Experienced builders and architects recommend not to miss the opportunity to make the most of the space in it when building a private house. There is an economical and easy way to increase living space in small house- to equip a residential attic.

An attic is a room equipped under a roof, which is used for permanent residence. To get from the ground floor to the attic, you need a staircase, which often becomes the most difficult technical issue when equipping an attic. In this article, we will tell you what options for stairs to the attic are, as well as how they can be compactly placed even with a total shortage of free space.

Attic - living space, which is equipped in the under-roof space of the house. This is the most economical way to increase the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe dwelling, which only slightly increases the load on the foundation of the building.

To equip the attic, it is necessary to provide a special mansard roof, the slope of the slopes of which is designed in such a way as to make the ceiling as high as possible, and the elements of the truss frame are shifted to the sides to free the central part of the room. Features of the attic are:

Availability of natural light. In order for a room equipped under the roof of a house to be considered residential, it must have natural lighting in the form of dormer or gable windows. The most convenient are vertical windows, as they allow the use of natural light for most of the daylight hours.
Large ceiling height. For a comfortable stay of a person in the attic, the height of the ceilings should be at least 2-2.2 meters. In those parts of the attic where the height is less, storage places are usually equipped, furniture is installed on which to sit or lie.
Availability of ventilation. To prevent the greenhouse effect from being created under the roof, it is better to equip the attic with a ventilation system. The most convenient option is flow-through forced ventilation. It provides an influx of fresh air, removes water vapor.

Note! To carry out the ascent to the floor from, the attic staircase is being installed. Moreover, with the constant operation of the under-roof space, it is much more convenient to use stationary, rather than folding models, but stationary ones, which are safer and more reliable.

Requirements for an attic ladder

Stairs to the attic in a private one are an indispensable element that is necessary if you want to use the roof space as a living space. Any homeowner is concerned about choosing the most acceptable staircase design, which will not affect the usable area of the room, but at the same time will be safe and comfortable.

The staircase to the attic must meet the following requirements:

Strength. The attic staircase must have high strength, its design is calculated in such a way that it can withstand the weight of at least three people of average weight with a small margin.
Convenience. When operating a staircase, the convenience of the entire structure is very important - its steepness, width, distance between steps. Marches should be spacious so that furniture or large items can be moved along it.
compactness. Places for installing stairs in a private house are limited in area, so the design must be very compact, not occupying living space.
Ease. When choosing a ladder, the weight of the material for the manufacture of elements is taken into account so that it does not greatly increase the load on the foundation of the building. Wooden stairs to the attic are quite light, but they are less durable than metal ones.
Safety. Distinctive feature safe stairs - railings that are installed along its entire length, they prevent accidental falls from a height during the operation of the structure.
Aesthetic appearance. The staircase should harmoniously fit into the interior styles of the house.

Important! To carry out the manufacture of an attic staircase, it is necessary to calculate the load to which it will be subjected during operation, while taking into account the height of the opening, optimal angle the slope of the stairs when passing the attic floor, the availability of free space for the installation of the structure.

Options

Many homeowners are wondering how to make a staircase to the attic. The problem of equipping the attic floor is much easier to solve individually. Only taking into account the geometry of the space, the availability of free space and the height of the ceilings, it is possible to select all the structural elements in such a way that they will look organically in the interior.

Design when choosing a staircase is important, but its main parameters are much more important:

Tilt angle. According to many years of research and experience of builders, stairs with an inclination angle of 30-45 degrees are the most comfortable for a person. However, reducing the steepness of the structure can lead to an increase in its size, which is not always rational in terms of the use of free space.
Step Height. This design parameter is no less important than its steepness. Optimal value this parameter is 14-21 cm. If the height of the steps is greater, then it is harder to use it, especially for elderly family members or children.
Tread Width. When a staircase to the attic is being designed, the dimensions of its steps should not be less than 20 cm.
Ladder width. Do-it-yourself staircase to the attic is a very real task, however, when designing, we must not forget that its optimal width is 120 cm.
Railing height. During operation, it must be taken into account that the minimum height of the staircase railing is 90 cm, and the distance between the balusters should be no more than 18 cm.

Remember! Many novice craftsmen are wondering what materials to use and how to make a staircase with their own hands. In order to withstand all design parameters in the optimal range and comply with all safety standards, before building steps to the attic, we will definitely make a drawing, determine required amount stringers according to the calculation of the required bearing capacity.

Types by configuration

Do-it-yourself staircase to the attic is a difficult task, but doable. Especially now, when all the necessary components are sold in construction stores, from which, as from a designer, you can assemble a ladder of the required configuration.

To begin with, it is worth deciding that there is an internal or external staircase to the attic. The advantages of the first option are obvious: the internal design is convenient and comfortable to use at any time of the year.

Outdoor placement is used only if there is no free space inside the house. According to other features, attic stairs are divided into the following types:

Note! If you are equipping an attic for regular use or living, do not install folding, attached or retractable ladder models, they are all only a temporary solution to the problem, inconvenient and unsafe.

Types by material

Experienced craftsmen know that stairs can be made from almost any material. However, the choice will affect bearing capacity, weight and aesthetics of the design. For example, wooden ladders are lighter and more inexpensive, while metal ladders are stronger and more durable.

Therefore, when making an attic staircase with your own hands, you often have to find a compromise. According to the material used for the manufacture of stairs, they are divided into the following types:

Important! Concrete stepped structures are almost never used as attic structures, since they are made only in standard sizes, and also weigh a lot and look unattractive.