The climbing rose does not bloom. Why doesn't the rose bloom? Support for climbing roses

A rose is a royal flower, even if it is only one rose, but what can be compared to a million roses? ... How to get a really grand, lush, rich bloom, and not just a few buds? Read about it below.

Flowering time for garden roses

Climbing roses (pictured below is a well-known representative of this group - rose) bloom in waves. The start of flowering falls on early summer. Flowering occurs throughout the month, many shoots grow and at the time of flowering the entire bush is strewn with flowers, then a decline, and then flowering again gains strength. And there is also a hybrid of a climbing rose with a hybrid tea - Climber, they bloom 1-2 times per season. Climbing roses of Kordes will bloom until late autumn, as well as.

Climbing rose Rosarium Utterson. Photo from ogorodsadovod.com

Hybrid tea rose begins to bloom from mid-June and continues to bloom until late autumn. Its striking feature is that there are not even the slightest interruptions, flowering continues without pauses.

Thus, it should be distinguished when a rose has taken a natural pause for it (study information about the variety and variety), and when there are some problems in care.

Reasons for the lack of flowers

Here we will look at errors that cannot be solved in one go. The solution to these problems will require cardinal: transplanting, digging, time to restore the plant, studying the literature, etc.

The very first rule is to buy seedlings from trusted gardeners. Since there are varieties that give a small number of flowers, capricious and complex varieties, and no matter how you care for such plants, they will not give abundant flowering.

The main reasons for the lack of flowers:

• A weak variety or low-quality seedling was selected for planting. A strong seedling is a plant no older than three years. The seedling must have a developed root system with no signs of decay. The bush should have three to four developed shoots. The bark of the shoot should be green.
• Bad light. From roses growing under trees, you should not expect abundant flowers. You may have noticed that the most lush rose bushes can be seen in rose gardens. Bushes are planted in a brightly lit place, which is in the shade for three hours a day - this trick will extend the duration of flowering. From the shady and northern side, they are transplanted to a sunny place - after that, the plant should be given time to adapt.
• Incorrectly prepared soil for planting. The soil for planting should be light, well-permeable and at the same time retain air and moisture. In no case should the soil be dense, prone to acidification. In order to improve poor soil, it is dug up with peat, compost, sand, humus, as well as with the addition of other substrates that can make the soil lighter and more nutritious. If there is too much moisture, they tear out drainage grooves or organize drainage.
• Insufficient depth when landing- the place of the stock is not deep enough and the shoots of the "wild" take nutrients from the cultivated plant.
• The seedlings are planted on the north side, or the place is too windy- this roses do not like;
• Incorrect removal or pruning of renewal shoots, poor-quality pruning, ignoring blind shoots. For example, a hybrid tea rose blooms only on the shoots of the current year, and blind shoots (that is, those that do not give flowers) can easily be turned into blooming ones. Recall that pruning roses is almost the most important point regular care.
• Poor bush insulation in winter. After a stressful wintering, the rose needs time to recover, there is no time for flowering. In winter, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, straw, roofing felt or spunbond. To prevent the weight of the snow from breaking the roses, the shelter is placed on special wooden supports or sticks. Roses should be covered when the leaves are completely dry. It is best to cover when the temperature has already reached -3 and no later.

Poor quality seedling. Photo from agronomist.in.ua

Do roses bloom in the first year after planting and when can flowers be expected

Depends on the type of rose and the seedling itself. With proper storage of seedlings in winter, as well as after planting, climbing roses bloom in the first year. As a rule, rambler roses bloom. If the plant did not bloom, the shoots may have been frozen. But even if the rose does not bloom, and this happens for no particular apparent reason, it forms a beautiful bush and will definitely bloom next year - this can be explained by the fact that it needs a set of root and green mass to bloom.

The first flowering also depends on the moment of planting., for example, if the plant was planted in September, then the growth of buds will already be noticed by the beginning of spring, and if the seedling was planted in the spring, then flowering will begin twenty days later, while care should be more thorough.

After the bush has faded, cut off all flower stalks. It is impossible to allow the wild rose to develop. And you should also cut out all the old shoots, they are not needed and they will not give flowers. 2/3 of all old peduncles should be cut off, leaving 3 shoots each.

hybrid tea rose correct pruning may bloom three times a year.

Mistakes in care, as the reason for the lack of flowers

Here we describe the causes that can be eliminated without plant transplants.

There are four global reasons:

1. Wrong watering. Tea roses require plenty of water. By no means superficial watering, which many novice gardeners sin with! On average, they are watered once abundantly, once every ten days. In hot weather, water once a week for 15 liters in the holes around the bushes. It is best to water in the morning or in the evening, the main thing is that by night the leaves are completely dry from the water. After watering, the earth is mulched. For irrigation use settled or rain water. You can determine the lack of moisture by stopping the growth of shoots, by shedding leaves and crushing flowers.
2. Rose diseases. The formation of plaque and rot on the stems. To do this, before sheltering in winter, the bush is checked for lesions and all the bad shoots are cut and burned. Sprayed with a solution of 3% vitriol. In the spring, the affected areas are cleaned, a thorough pruning is done, and tetracycline ointment is applied to the scraped areas. In summer, you should look at the bush every two days and cut off the affected areas.
3. Lack of batteries. To feed the plants use the following elements:
   • Nitrogen. Helps the development of leaves and shoots. Dilute 1 tablespoon per ten liters of water;
   • Phosphorus. Enhances root growth. You can determine that there is a shortage by looking at the leaves, a spot and brown-purple stripes appear. They feed with superphosphate at the rate of a large spoon per 10 liters of water;
   • Potassium. Identified by yellowed leaves. Helps the plant fight fungal diseases. Calculation: a large spoon for ten liters of water;
   • Magnesium. Helps photosynthesis. With a shortage, colorless spots appear.
   • Iron. Yellowing of the edge of the leaves. With a lack of iron, peat or acidic top dressing is introduced into the soil.
   • Bor. With a shortage, shoots die off, the edges of the leaves are bent. For top dressing, ash is scattered near the bush and dug up with the ground.
   • Manganese. With insufficient quantity, the veins of the sheets turn yellow. For top dressing, a solution of 0.5% manganese sulfate is prepared.
4. Excess batteries. This is also the sin of many novice gardeners who take care of their plants diligently, but without understanding what's what, and begin to fertilize everything. Overfeeding inappropriately is just as bad as underfeeding! It is important to understand when and what fertilizers are needed:
   • complex - give at the beginning of spring, at the start of growth, during flowering it is useless;
   • phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied either in spring or in autumn at the last top dressing;
   • nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass, so it is not appropriate at the end of summer and autumn;
   • may sometimes be required foliar top dressing(during heavy rain).

What to do if the roses in the garden do not bloom

The procedure depends on the diagnosis. Which of the above reasons applies to your situation?

In its simplest form, you should act like this:

1. We choose a trusted seller and a good variety.
2. The rose must be grafted onto a hardy rootstock.
3. At the same time, it is better to immediately discard the northern, cold, windy places, choose a bright, warm, calm place for the rose. From buildings or arches, roses are planted 50 cm.
4. The plant does not bloom in heavy soil, so the soil must be dug up to a meter deep in advance. The earth is saturated with peat, manure or humus. The soil must be nutritious, otherwise where are the lush flowers?
5. Professional pruning required. As a rule, the crown is sheared with a fan.
6. After flowering, the lashes and faded shoots are cut off. Feed the soil with potassium and phosphorus. Leaving a rose for the winter, be sure to cover it with a thick film, protect all shoots from rodents.

How to stimulate flowering

It happens that roses still bloom, but not as brightly as we would like. Causes:

1. Illiterate pruning. Not everyone knows that summer pruning allows you to prolong flowering, there is a popular and very sensible video on the Marina Flowers blog about this (for example, a video from July 9, 2015, “Medium pruning of roses after the first flowering - for quick re-blooming”) .
2. Withered flowers remain on the bush. Attention - this is a fairly common cause of poor flowering! Withered flowers should be removed in time, without pity. In order for the plant to bloom all the time, it is necessary to inspect the bush and cut dry branches and buds daily.

Photo from flowerbank.ru

top dressing

This is actually not such a simple matter. It is difficult to give unambiguous recommendations, because everyone is different. initial conditions. Let's see what practitioners recommend.

A user from the rosebook.ru website recommends fertilizing the plant during pauses with potassium monophosphate and infusion of fermented grass. Forum user stilist advises to fertilize only until mid-July. He believes that for good growth A properly laid planting pit with top dressing plays an important role. In the autumn they make a hillock with organic matter, in the spring they feed it with complex fertilizer. Summer pruning required.

And also there is an opinion that top dressing of the bush is obligatory when the first shoots bloom.

The bush should grow at a slight slope, like a hole under the bush, so that water does not stagnate. If a climbing rose does not bloom, pruning is required with the formation of a crown, buds will form on the cut branches. Also, to stimulate, create a microclimate and spray the plant. They dig a pit, a pool to create moisture.

If the bush is in the shade, it should be transplanted to a bright place. If it is hot, water at least once every two days.

From organic matter, gardeners use rotted horse manure, buried in the soil. Nitrogen gives green foliage growth. Phosphorus helps the formation of flower stalks. Magnesium helps bud growth. Iron helps prevent rose diseases. They also use mineral fertilizers for spraying - this is foliar top dressing.

Correct fit seedling:

Photo from pseeksy.vepo.com

If you take care of the rose correctly, it will bloom for more than 25 years.

About the correct planting of roses

Deepen the vaccination and by how much exactly? About this - in the blog "Garden World".

Climbing roses include wild rose species, as well as several varieties of garden roses, branching with fairly long stems. They are directly related to the rosehip genus. And these plants are very popular in vertical gardening of various structures, buildings and walls, as well as arbors. Such flowers are able to decorate both a large structure and a very small one. These plants are widely used to create various structures in the garden, namely, columns, arbors, pyramids, garlands, and arches. And they are wonderfully combined with other plants, in this regard, their popularity is no less than that of a room or spray rose.

There is no general description for this type of plant, because they have many different forms and varieties. However, there is a classification climbing roses, which has been adopted in international floricultural practice.

First group

Such plants are called climbing roses or rambler roses (Rambler). These flowers have long flexible shoots that are arcuate or creeping. They are painted in a rich green color, and spikes are located on their surface. In length, they can reach more than 500 centimeters. Glossy leathery leaves are small in size. Flowers can be double, semi-double and simple, their diameter, as a rule, does not exceed 25 millimeters. They have a rather weak aroma. The flowers are part of the inflorescences, which are placed along the entire length of the stems. Flowering in such plants is quite abundant, and it lasts a little longer than 4 weeks. Flowering observed in the first half summer period. A very large number of varieties have frost resistance, and such plants are able to overwinter normally even under relatively light shelter. This plant was born thanks to such species as: multi-flowered rose (multiflora) and Vihura rose.

Second group

Climber or large-flowered climbing roses (climers) were bred by breeders by crossing groups of rambler roses with hybrid tea, tea, remontant roses, and also with a floribunda rose. The length of the stems of such climbing roses can reach 400 cm. The flowers are quite large (more than 4 centimeters in diameter), and they are part of small loose inflorescences. Flowering is plentiful. In a large number of varieties, flowering is observed 2 times during the season. Flowers have a shape similar to hybrid tea roses. These flowers are relatively frost-resistant and have resistance to powdery mildew.

Third group

Climbings were formed by large-flowered mutating spray roses, namely: grandiflora, hybrid tea, and floribunda. The difference between such plants and producing species is that they have even more powerful growth and very large flowers (diameter from 4 to 11 centimeters), while they can be either single or part of not very large inflorescences. They also differ in fruiting, which occurs in more late dates. Most of the varieties are characterized by repeated flowering. These plants are cultivated only in the southern regions of the temperate zone, where winter period is relatively warm and soft.

Planting climbing roses in open ground

Absolutely all types of such plants have a very capricious character. The same applies to climbing roses. To plant and care for such a plant, you need to adhere to certain rules. And you should also take into account the advice of experienced flower growers on the cultivation of climbing roses. The choice of a site for landing must be approached with all responsibility. Such plants simply need a site that will be lit by the sun from morning to afternoon. In this case, the dew on the plant can dry out, which will help to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases. At lunchtime when Sun rays the most scorching, this area should be shaded, otherwise burns may appear on the surface of the foliage and petals. Also, a suitable site should have protection from the northeast and north winds, because it is quite cold. It is not recommended to decorate the corner part of buildings with climbing roses. The fact is that the draft present there can destroy a tender plant. For planting such flowers, experts advise choosing a site on the south side of the building. In order to plant climbing roses, you will need a strip of soil only half a meter wide, but it should be noted that any structure, building or plant should be located at a distance of about 50-100 centimeters from such a flower.

Suitable soil must necessarily pass water well. If, on the site chosen for planting, groundwater is very close to the surface, these plants are planted on a special pre-prepared elevation. The roots of this type of roses in some cases can be buried in the ground up to 200 centimeters. In order to prevent stagnation of fluid in the root system, the selected area should be located at least at a not very large slope. Loam is considered ideal option for planting a climbing rose. If the soil is sandy, then it must be corrected before planting by adding clay when digging, and sand must be added to clay soil. Such plants need soil saturated with nutrients, so the introduction of humus or humus is mandatory. You should also add bone meal to the soil, which is considered an excellent source of phosphorus. Soil preparation must be carried out in advance. Ideally, this should be done 6 months before planting, but preparations can also be made 4 weeks before planting a rose.

If you are going to plant a climbing rose, you must first learn how to choose the highest quality planting material. Nowadays, you can buy seedlings of roses that are own-rooted, as well as those that are grafted onto wild roses. But how are they different? Grafted seedlings have one important difference from own-rooted ones. The fact is that the root system of such a seedling belongs to the wild rose, and on it there is a graft belonging to a varietal climbing rose. In this regard, plant and care for own-rooted rose follows somewhat differently than the grafted one. So, for example, a grafted seedling must be buried in the soil when planting in such a way that the place where the graft is located is underground at a depth of 10 centimeters. With this method of planting, the part of the plant that was grafted begins to form its own root system, while the rosehip roots eventually become unnecessary and die off. In the case when, during planting, the scion was not buried in the ground, but remained above its surface, it can lead to the death of the plant. The fact is that the wild rose is a deciduous plant, and the grafted rose is an evergreen. If the planting was carried out in violation of the rules, then such a discrepancy between the stock and scion can lead to the death of the cultural part of the plant.

Seedlings with an open root system must be immersed in a container of water for 1 day, and this should be done immediately before planting in open ground. After that, you should cut off all the leaves and cut off, using a pruner, those stems that are unripe or have been damaged. You should also prune the root system and the aerial part, leaving 30 centimeters each. Places of cuts should be treated with crushed charcoal. If you use grafted seedlings for planting, then they must carefully remove all the buds that are located below the scion. The fact is that rose hips will begin to grow from them. Next, the planting material should be disinfected. To do this, it must be dipped in a solution blue vitriol (3%).

The hole for planting a rose should measure 50x50. At the same time, a distance of at least 100 centimeters must be observed between the landing pits. The top layer of soil, the most saturated with nutrients, must be removed from the dug hole and connected with ½ of the manure bucket. Part of the resulting earth mixture must be poured into the hole, and then a relatively large amount of water must be poured into it. This procedure should be carried out a day or two before the proposed planting of the plant. On the day when you are going to plant a seedling, you need to prepare a special solution in order to process the root system before planting. To prepare the solution, dissolve 1 tablet of heteroauxin, 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin in 500 ml of water. Then pour this liquid into 9.5 liters of clay mash. Before lowering the seedling into the hole, its roots should be dipped in the prepared mixture. Pour a mixture of soil and manure into the hole with a mound. Then you need to place a seedling in the hole, while carefully straightening its roots. Fill the hole with the same mixture of soil and manure and compact the soil surface well. Do not forget that the place where the vaccine is located should be buried 10 centimeters into the ground. At the same time, in a self-rooted seedling, it is necessary to deepen the root neck by 5 or more centimeters into the ground. The planted plant should be well watered. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, a mixture of soil and manure will need to be added to the hole. Then the plant spuds to a height of 20 centimeters or more.

Roses planted in autumn overtake in development those that were planted in open ground in spring time. At the same time, the latter need special increased attention to themselves. Before planting seedlings, they should cut the root system to 30 centimeters, and at the same time, the stems must be shortened to 15–20 centimeters. When the plant is planted, it must be well watered and planted high. Then it should be covered with a transparent film on top, while creating something similar to a mini-greenhouse. In these greenhouse conditions, the rose will take root relatively faster. Do not forget to ventilate the seedling every day, for this you need to raise the shelter for a few minutes. Experts advise airing every time for longer and longer, so the rose will also be tempered. After the threat of night frosts is over, it will be possible to remove the shelter completely, and pour a layer of mulch on the surface of the soil in the hole. If the seedling was planted at a time when warm and dry weather was established, then the surface of the holes will need to be sprinkled with a layer of mulch (peat or otherwise).

Caring for climbing roses outdoors

In order for a climbing rose to grow and develop normally, it is necessary to learn how to properly water, feed, and cut the plant. You also need to monitor the health of the rose and destroy pests in time. It is very important to learn how to properly prepare the bushes for wintering. This type of rose needs a reliable support. These plants can easily tolerate drought, and therefore should not be watered abundantly. As a rule, they are watered once every 7 days or per decade, 10–20 liters of water should be poured onto 1 bush. Remember that it is better to water more often, but less. To keep water in the hole around it, it is recommended to build a not very low shaft of soil. When 2–3 days pass from the moment of watering, it will be necessary to loosen the soil surface of the near-stem circle to a depth of 5 to 6 centimeters. This will help retain moisture in the soil, as well as improve airflow to the root system. In order to reduce the number of waterings and practically eliminate the loosening of the soil, it is necessary to cover its surface with a layer of mulch.

Young plants do not need to fertilize the soil until the end of the summer period, since there is a large amount in the soil from the moment of planting. nutrients. At the end of summer, the plant should be fed with a solution of potash fertilizers, this will help the rose prepare for the winter period. In this case, it is recommended to use an infusion prepared on wood ash as a top dressing. In the second year of life, such plants need to apply both mineral and organic fertilizers to the soil, and they should be alternated. And roses of the third and subsequent years of life should be fed only with organic fertilizers. So, a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 1 liter of manure and 1 tbsp is perfect for this. wood ash. If desired, instead of manure, you can take something else organic fertilizer. During the period of intensive growth, climbing roses must be fed 5 times, while it must be taken into account that fertilizers cannot be applied to the soil during the flowering period.

Support for climbing roses

For this type of roses, there is a huge variety of supports. So, as a support, you can use an old dried tree, a wooden, metal or polymer arch or grate, as well as arched rods made of metal. But the best support for such a plant is a building or any structure, but we must remember that plants should be planted at least 50 centimeters away from the wall. On the surface of the wall, it is necessary to fix the guides, for which the shoots of the plant or the lattice will cling. But at the same time, we must not forget that if the stems are located horizontally, then the flowers will grow along their entire length. If they grow vertically, then the flowers will bloom only at the tops of the stems.

In order to fix the stems on the support, you must use a plastic twine. It is forbidden to use wire for these purposes, even wrapped in cloth or a sheet of paper. The shoot must be fixed securely on the support, but so that the fixing material does not damage it. It is necessary to conduct a systematic inspection of plants for the integrity of fixing materials. The fact is that under the weight of the plant itself or from gusts of wind, the twine can break, and in this case there is a risk of significant damage to the rose. Step back from 30 to 50 centimeters from the bush and then dig a support into the ground.

Transplanting climbing roses

An adult rose may need a transplant only when it becomes clear that the place where it grows is completely unsuitable for it. Transplantation is carried out in autumn in September or early November, later this should not be done, since the bush will not have time to take root before the start of the winter period. In some cases, the plant is transplanted in the spring, but this must be done before the buds awaken. Plants must be removed from the supporting structure. In ramblers, young shoots are not removed, but their tops are pinched in the last days of August, which will help them quickly become woody. Cut off stems older than 2 years. All long stems it is necessary to shorten by ½ part at the clamps and climbers. After that, the bushes must be carefully dug in a circle, while from its center it is necessary to retreat to a distance that is equal to 2 bayonet shovels. It must be remembered that the roots go deep into the soil, and you need to try to dig them out completely, while causing them as little damage as possible. The soil should be shaken off the roots, and then they should be inspected. With the help of a pruner, it is necessary to cut off the shaggy, as well as damaged tips of the roots. Lower the plant into the prepared hole and be sure to straighten the roots. Then fill the hole with soil and compact its surface well. Water the plant well. A few days after transplantation, you need to pour required amount soil in order to level the surface of the near-stem circle. At the same time, you need to hill the rose.

Aphids and spider mites can settle on a climbing rose. In the case when aphids on a plant are not very recommended, try to get rid of them using folk remedies. So, you can remove insects from the plant manually. To do this, you need to pinch the part of the plant on which the aphid is located with your fingers and remove it. Don't forget to wear gloves. But this method can be used only at the very beginning of infection. If there are a lot of insects, then manually removing them will be ineffective. In this case, it is recommended to make a soapy solution. Soap should be crushed with a grater, pour into a container where you need to pour water. Let the solution stand as the soap needs time to dissolve. Strain it and treat the plant with a sprayer. If after processing the insects still remain, then you need to buy an insecticidal agent in a special store, which should have a mark “for grapes and roses”. For processing in this case, you need to choose a windless sunny day. Spider mites can settle on a rose only during a dry hot period, and only when the plant is watered very rarely. Such insects live on the wrong side of the leaves. They feed on plant sap and entangle the leaves with a thin cobweb. In an infected rose, the leaves become green-silver. Very often, to destroy such ticks, an infusion prepared on wormwood, shag, yarrow or tobacco is used. 3 days after treatment with this infusion, from 80 to 100 percent of pests should die. To prepare an infusion of wormwood, you need to pour 500 g of freshly picked wormwood into a wooden container. There you need to pour a bucket cold water. When the mixture is infused for half a month, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. It is necessary to process both the plant itself and the surface of the soil around it. If you want to get rid of insects in the near future, then you will need to purchase Fitoverm. You can re-treat a couple of weeks after the first. Before proceeding with the processing of this tool, it is necessary to study the instructions attached to it, which indicate the features, as well as the required dosage.

Climbing roses can also be harmed by: cicadas, thrips, rose sawflies, leafworms. However, if you take care of the flower, observing all the rules, then they will not settle on it. As a preventive measure, plant marigolds in the immediate vicinity of the rose, they can protect this plant from most pests. Also in the fall and spring, preventive measures should be taken. To do this, the bushes need to be treated with a sprayer with Bordeaux liquid.

For roses, diseases such as bacterial cancer, gray rot, coniothyrium, powdery mildew, and black spot.

appear on the surface of the plant different sizes the growths are very soft and tuberculate. After a while they become harder and darker. This leads to drying and death of the plant. Such a disease cannot be cured. During the acquisition of seedlings, you need to carefully examine them, and before planting them, you need to disinfect the root system by immersing it for 2-3 minutes. in a solution of copper sulfate (3%). If there are signs of the disease on an adult plant, the affected parts must be cut off immediately, while the sections must be treated with the same three percent solution.

This disease is fungal, which is considered a burn of the cortex or cancer. You can see that the plant is sick in the spring, after the shelter has been removed. Spots of a brownish-red color can be seen on the surface of the bark, which eventually turn black and turn into rings around the stem. These stems should be cut off immediately, while capturing some of the unaffected tissue, and destroyed to prevent the spread of the disease. For preventive purposes, in autumn, nitrogen fertilizer should be changed to potash, which will make rose tissues stronger. And during thaws, it is imperative to ventilate the plants by raising the shelter.

A whitish tinge appears on parts of the roses, which gradually turns brown. The appearance of such a disease can be provoked by high humidity, a sharp change in temperature, an excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil, and violations of irrigation rules. Parts of the rose that are affected by the disease must be cut and destroyed. Next, the plant should be treated using a solution of copper sulfate (2%) or iron sulfate (3%).

Dark brownish-red spots appear on the surface of the leaves, which are bordered by a yellow rim. Over time, they merge with each other and cause the death of the leaf plate. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer under the root in the fall. And it will also require a three-stage treatment of the plant itself and the soil near it with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (3%) or iron sulfate (3%). Breaks between treatments are 7 days.

Able to destroy almost all parts of the plant (buds, leaves, shoots). Such a rose loses its beauty, and its flowering becomes relatively scarce. With a strongly frolicking disease, the rose should be dug up and burned. If the disease has just appeared, then it is recommended to treat the bush with a solution prepared from 5 liters of water and 50 g of Bordeaux mixture. In order to cure the plant completely, as a rule, 4 treatments may be needed, the interval between which should be 7 days.

It happens that a seemingly healthy and well-developed climbing rose does not bloom. The point here may not be a disease at all, but that a seedling of poor quality (weakly flowering) was purchased, and besides, an inappropriate place was chosen for it, and the soil, too, most likely, is not quite suitable for this plant. And it also happens that last year's stems are damaged during wintering.

When to prune climbing roses

These plants need pruning, since it is she who allows you to form a beautiful crown, make flowering more abundant, and along the entire height of the bush, improve its decorative qualities. If you cut the plant correctly, then it will delight with its flowering throughout the entire period of intensive growth. Vegetative stems deserve special attention, since most of the flowers are formed on last year's stems. Cut the rose should be in the spring or autumn. At the very beginning of the period of intensive growth, absolutely all climbing roses need to remove dead stems, as well as areas that have been frostbitten. And also cut off the tips of the stems to the strongest outer bud. The following pruning procedures will be directly related to how many times a particular rose blooms, one or more.

In those plants in which flowering is observed 1 time per season, flowers grow on last year's stems. Basal (faded) stems replace recovery shoots, which can grow up to 10 pieces. Flowers will grow on them only next year. In this regard, faded shoots will need to be removed by cutting them out at the root, while this procedure is recommended to be carried out in autumn during preparation for wintering. Those climbing roses that bloom several times a season, blooming branches of different orders grow on the main stems for 3 years - from 2 to 5. In the fifth year of life of these stems, their flowering becomes more scarce. In this regard, at the beginning of the spring period, the main shoots must be removed, cut to the ground, and this should be done in the fourth year of their life. Repeat flowering bushes should have 3 annual recovery stems and 3-7 flowering stems that are the main ones. But at the same time, it must be remembered that in most of these roses, flowers form on overwintered stems, therefore, in spring, only the upper part with buds, which are underdeveloped, should be cut off from them.

Young roses that have been grafted and planted in the past or this year need special attention. Until the rose has its own root system, you will have to systematically remove the rose hips. After 1–2 years (after the death of the root system of the wild rose), rose shoots will begin to appear.

Reproduction of climbing roses

It can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering, and grafting. It is easier to do this by layering and cuttings. Seeds must be purchased at a specialized store. If you want to sow the seeds that were collected from roses by you, then you must understand that such plants do not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant, and therefore anything can grow in you.

The seeds must be folded into a sieve and immersed for 30 minutes in a container filled with hydrogen peroxide. Thus, disinfection of the seed is carried out, as well as the prevention of mold formation during further stratification. Moisten cotton pads with hydrogen peroxide and place seeds on them. Put the same moistened cotton pads on top of them. Each resulting "sandwich" should be placed in a separate bag of polyethylene. Sign the date and name of the variety, and then put the seeds in a container in the refrigerator designed to store vegetables. There needs to be a systematic review. Moreover, if mold is found, then the seeds must be washed and again kept in hydrogen peroxide. The fleece is replaced with fresh ones, and the seeds are again placed in the refrigerator. After 6-8 weeks, the seeds that should sprout should be planted in peat tablets or separate small pots, while they should be sprinkled with a layer of mulch on top, which should be taken as perlite, this will help to avoid the "black leg" disease. Provide the plants with at least 10 hours of daylight and timely watering as the substrate dries out. If the plant develops normally, then 8 weeks after planting, they will have buds, and after 4-6 weeks the plant will bloom. You can fertilize with a weak solution of complex fertilizer. In the spring, they are planted in open soil, and then they are looked after, like adult roses.

Cuttings are the simplest method of propagation, which gives a good result. For cuttings, you can use both faded stems and flowering ones. They need to be cut from the second half of June to the first days of August. The lower oblique cut must be made directly under the kidney, while the angle of the cut is 45 degrees. The top cut should be straight and located as high as possible above the kidney. There should be at least 2 internodes on the handle. The lower leaves must be cut off, and those on top should be shortened by ½ part. It is planted to a centimeter depth in a soil mixture consisting of sand and earth, or in sand. Cover it on top with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle. Store in a well-lit area, out of direct sunlight. Watering is done without removing the shelter. Treatment with an agent that accelerates the growth of the roots of a cutting cut can be useful only when the variety has a long rooting.

In the spring, an incision is made in the shoot above the bud. Then it must be placed in the prepared groove, the depth and width of which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters. At the bottom of the groove, you must first pour a layer of humus and fill it with soil from above. Escape is fixed in several places. Then it is covered with soil so that the upper part rises above the soil surface. Layering needs systematic watering. After the onset of the next spring period, the cuttings should be cut off from the parent plant and planted in a new place.

Grafting climbing roses

Budding is the grafting of a cultivated rose eye on a rosehip rhizome. This must be done from the last days of July to the last days of August. Before grafting, the wild rose should be thoroughly watered, after which an incision in the shape of the letter T should be made on the root neck of the stock. The bark should be pry off and slightly torn off the wood. From the cutting of a rose, you need to cut an eye along with part of the bark and wood. Then it is placed tightly in the prepared incision and very tightly rewound this place with an occult film. Then it is necessary to hill the wild rose so that the soil rises above the grafting site by at least 5 centimeters. After half a month, the bandage is slightly loosened, and the next spring it is removed altogether.

Features of care after flowering

What to do when the roses have faded

With the beginning of the autumn period, you should start preparing roses for the winter period. From the last days of August, you need to completely stop watering and loosening the earth and start feeding with potassium instead of nitrogen. The upper part of the unripened stems must be removed. Such roses must be covered for the winter, but first they are removed from the supporting structure and placed on the surface of the soil. It is very easy to lay a young plant on the ground. It is not easy to lay an adult specimen on the ground, and it can take up to 7 days. It must be remembered that at sub-zero temperatures, the shoots become brittle and can break.

You need to cover the plant when the air temperature drops below minus 5 degrees. This should not be done earlier, because the flowers must be hardened, and they may also begin to rot or grow (which is associated with a long stay under cover without air). Shelter should be made in non-rainy calm weather. From the removed shoots, it is necessary to remove the leaves, cut off the damaged stems, tie the whips using a rope, and then carefully lay them on the bedding. To create it, you can use dry leaves or spruce branches. Do not place the plant on bare soil. Press or fix the plant on the surface of the soil, and cover it with dry leaves or grass on top, and you can also use spruce branches. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with soil or sand, and then cover the plant with lutrasil, polyethylene film, roofing felt or other material that can not get wet. Between the plant and the shelter should remain a layer of air.

winter care

With the onset of a thaw in the winter, you need to raise the shelter for a very short time. Plants benefit from fresh air in winter. But you should not remove the leaves or spruce branches. When the real spring begins to come, the shelter must be removed, otherwise the plants may start to hurt. The spruce branches will save the roses from freezing.

Varieties of climbing roses with photos and names

The most popular varieties are listed below.

Ramblers (small-flowered climbing roses)

In height, such a vigorous variety can reach 800 cm, while the crown has a width of up to 300 cm. Rich green leaves are almost invisible due to the many creamy white flowers, the diameter of which is 4–5 centimeters. They smell like musk. You need a lot of free space and reliable support. Not afraid of frost.

Ramblin Rector

Five-meter lashes adorn light green leaf plates. Semi-double cream flowers are quite small. They are 40 pieces are part of large inflorescences in the form of a brush. When exposed to the sun, they fade to a white color. Such a plant is also cultivated as a bush.

Bushes of two meters in height and width are decorated with double flowers, painted in rich crimson color, which are collected in racemose inflorescences. It blooms until the end of the summer period, but the bright color fades in the sun. It is frost-resistant and not susceptible to infection with powdery mildew.

Claimings and climbers (large-flowered varieties)

The height of an upright, vigorous bush reaches 250 cm, and a width of 150 cm. The diameter of densely double flowers is 14 centimeters. They are dyed in White color with a greenish tinge and smell of fruit. Flowering until the end of the summer period. Has disease resistance.

A four-meter bush is decorated with dark green carved leaves and semi-double velvety large ones (diameter 8–10 centimeters). They have a rich red color. Not afraid of frost, resistant to diseases. Blooms several times per season.

The height of the bush can exceed 200 centimeters. Glossy leaves have a dark green color, and double large (diameter 12 centimeters) flowers are apricot. During the season, flowering is observed 2 or 3 times. Has resistance to powdery mildew. Good shelter is needed for wintering.

A vigorous three-meter bush has a one and a half meter diameter. The leaves are dense dark green. Terry lilac large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) and fragrant flowers are part of the inflorescences. It grows fast and blooms several times a season. Disease resistant.

Cordes hybrids (they are not distinguished into a separate group, but are classified as ramblers)

fragrant tall plant has a diameter of 100 cm, and a height of 300 cm. Racemose inflorescences consist of double large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) flowers of a dark pink color. Flowering is observed 2 times per season. It is resistant to powdery mildew and blackleg.

The bush has many shoots, and its height is 350 centimeters. Racemose inflorescences consist of semi-double large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) flowers, painted in a yellowish-golden color. They smell strongly of fruit. Flowering is observed twice per season.

The climbing rose is one of the brightest decorations of the garden, but sometimes it ceases to please with abundant flowering. Why does the climbing rose not bloom? Professional flower growers will tell about the reasons and how to eliminate them.

Climbing roses have excellent decorative properties, I use them in the figure design of arches, arbors, fences, garlands, columns, etc. A real tragedy for the gardener if the climbing rose does not bloom.

Why don't climbing roses bloom?

1. Unsuitable soil

Climbing roses love loose fertile soil. If these plants are not blooming, they are probably lacking in nutrients. Then they need to be fed. In general, climbing roses are fed according to the following scheme:
In the first year after planting, roses can not be fed at all or fed with organic matter: infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20) at the rate of 3-5 liters per bush.
In the spring, after removing the shelter and pruning, it is recommended to apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. After 2 weeks, top dressing must be repeated.
At the beginning of budding, another top dressing is carried out. This time, you can use nitrogen-based complex fertilizers (for example, Kemiru Lux (30 g per 1 sq.m)).
Before the first flowering, climbing roses need one more top dressing. Suitable for this infusion of mullein (1:10) and chicken manure (1:20) in the amount of 3-5 liters per bush.
After the first wave of flowering (late July - early August), roses are shown to be fed with complex mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions), preferably not containing nitrogen.
The last top dressing is carried out after the flowering of the rose and it is aimed at the ripening of the shoots. To do this, use superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq.m).
It is also worth remembering that the soil must be loosened to a depth of up to 70 cm before planting a bush. Unsuitable soil or its poor-quality processing affect flowering and the number of buds in a plant.

2. Wild growth

Roses often form shoots - these are small branches with leaves and thorns that appear in the root zone. If the processes thickening the bush are not removed in a timely manner, the plant will begin to run wild and stop blooming. Cut the root shoots should be near the ground. And it is desirable to do it in a timely manner.

3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer

Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers contributes to the growth lush green mass, which adversely affects the process of bud formation. It is better to replace nitrogen fertilizers with a mixture of potassium salt and superphosphate.

4. Diseases of climbing roses

Among the large list of diseases of roses, these plants are most often affected by powdery mildew and bark cancer. Preventive measures against powdery mildew are double spraying of dormant buds and shoots with 1% Bordeaux liquid. But the prevention of bark cancer will be the feeding of climbing roses with potash fertilizers (in September, superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20-30 g each), the correct and timely shelter of plants for the winter, the destruction of affected shoots, airing plants sheltered for the winter during thaws.

5. Wrong landing site

Sometimes flower growers plant a queen of flowers in an inappropriate place for her, which can lead not only to a lack of flowering, but also to the death of the plant itself. It is important to know that climbing roses do not tolerate drafts and shade very well.

6. Poor preparation for winter

Roses require special shelter for the winter, as they can die not only from low temperatures, but also from dampness during the winter thaws. So don't forget about air gap between plant and cover. From the end of summer, you should stop loosening the soil and frequent watering, exclude nitrogen fertilizers (leave only potash fertilizers), cut out all wild growth, weak and damaged shoots.

7. Wrong cropping

Climbing roses need only the removal of old shoots and wild growth. Excessive pruning of young branches is undesirable, as this does not allow the bush to grow normally. Cut roses in moderation so that they do not spend a lot of energy recovering from this procedure.

Now that it is clear why climbing roses do not bloom, you can fix everything and let the climbing rose along the column.

How to put a climbing rose on a column?

If there is not enough space in your garden for lush thickets of climbing roses, but you still want to start a “pink” corner, you can try to twist a column with a rose.
The formation of an adult climbing rose bush around the column begins after spring pruning.

1. Choose a strong support for the rose. It can be as long wooden beam, and a beautiful decorative column. The main condition is strength. 'Cause you don't want poor quality Is this support broken under the weight of flowering vines?
2. Install the column securely 40 cm from the bush. It is necessary to dig the support deep into the ground and, possibly, even concrete the base. In this case, you do not have to worry that the support will fall under the pressure of the first squally wind and bury all your dreams of a beautiful, rose-covered column under it.
3. Start wrapping the main lashes around the column in a spiral. Again, keep in mind that lush flowering can only be achieved if the shoots are located at an angle of no more than 45 degrees relative to the support.
4. Short lateral shoots around the columned shoots are optional. It will be enough to carefully lift them and tie them to a support with a soft tape or place them between the main shoots. So you add volume to your flower design.
5. Loosely tie the shoots around the column at the very top of the support so as not to let the bush fall apart under the weight of the inflorescences.

When climbing roses bloom, rarely anyone remains indifferent to this bewitching spectacle. The cascade of falling flowers is not only beautiful, but also filled with fragrance.

All branches should not be placed only up, because with such a formation, the bush is likely to become poorer, and the buds will bloom only at the top, - explains the experienced florist Anna Blazhko.- It is better to place some of the largest branches horizontally on a vertical support, and let the rest grow as they please. This will give a whole cloud of lush flowers, which will undoubtedly decorate a pergola, fence or wall.

How to do it? To stimulate a climbing rose to release more lateral flowering shoots, it is necessary to fix its stem on a support in a horizontal position or close to a 45-degree angle. So, we fix the stem of the rose on one side of the support, then, when the stem extends beyond the trellis, we take it in the opposite direction.

You can also build a fan from the branches. Shoots are located freely to the sides and up, without interfering with each other's growth.

Some flower growers, in order to protect the climbing rose from the cold and strong winds, settle it next to the house. And this is another mistake, the expert notes.

Important nuance

Since most of the roses in our area are grafted, and not rooted, you can miss and not remove the wild shoots from the rootstock in time - the bush on which the cultivated sprout is grafted. These wild whips gradually weaken the plant, and the rose can easily lose its varietal qualities. It is not difficult to recognize wild animals: they usually grow from below, have smaller and lighter leaves, and also a lot of thorns. However, when you see something like this, you should not immediately run after the pruner - first you need to dig up the ground, determine the insidious growth, and only then cut it off. If you do this above the soil, there will be no sense - an unnecessary branch should be removed at the very base.

Place of registration

Caring for roses requires considerable effort, however, many flower growers dream that these particular plants will settle on garden plot. However, before placing them on a specific piece of land, learn more about the whims of these beauties.

All roses love the sun and do not tolerate wetlands with stagnant waters. Therefore, try to find a well-lit and ventilated place for them in your area. And it is desirable that roses did not grow here earlier.

They need the sun like air, so that they not only bloom magnificently, but also manage to form new shoots over the summer, on which clusters of quivering flowers will appear next year. Ideally, if you manage to find a place where a couple of hours a day, roses can also rest in the shade - this will ensure that they bloom for a long time.

Usually a hole for planting roses is dug at least 0.5x0.5 meters in size. Part of the soil then sinks to the bottom, and river sand and humus are poured into the pit. If there is superphosphate, such a fertilizer will work for the strength and beauty of the plant for many years - you can add at least 4 tablespoons.

soft landing

Before planting, a rose seedling is soaked for a day in water, then it is cut off at least 15-30 centimeters. Places of cuts are treated with crushed charcoal. Climbing roses are planted so that the root neck is covered with a layer of earth about 10 centimeters. Roses love loose fertile soil.

How to fertilize

You can scatter them under a bush, and then close up with soil and water. Or, dig a shallow ring furrow and fill it with fertilizer with nutrient soil. This is a long-lasting top dressing that will dissolve every time you water or when it rains. Never apply fertilizer without first watering the soil with water - this can lead to a burn of the roots.

The ideal option is foliar top dressing, says Anna Blazhko. - Fertilizers are quickly absorbed into the leaves without affecting the composition of the soil. But it is better to do this in the morning so that the leaves dry out before evening. They do not need strong moisture, as this can provoke the appearance of fungus.

When to plant

Best of all - in late September - early October. Two weeks later, the rose will give the first roots, which usually have time to adapt to new conditions before the first frost and the onset of winter. Already in the spring, both the root and above-ground parts will actively develop. By the time flowering begins, the plant will gain strength and will not yield to its older sisters in any way.

You can plant a rose seedling in the spring, but it will require more careful care.

THE MAIN THING - DO NOT OVERFEED

The climbing rose needs proper nutrition. The bush should be fed according to the following scheme:

In the first year after planting, roses can not be fed at all.

As soon as the buds are tied on the rose, it is necessary to use nitrogen-based complex fertilizers - 30 g per 1 sq. m.

Before the first flowering, climbing roses are treated with an infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20) in the amount of 3-5 liters per bush.

Immediately after the first wave of flowering, the rose should be fed with complex mineral fertilizers, preferably without nitrogen.

The last top dressing is carried out after the bush has faded. This feeding is aimed at ripening shoots - twice before the end of the season, the rose is fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers or once with superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq. M).

WILL GROW BY THE YEAST

Climbing, and other roses are very fond of yeast dressing, but they need to be watered so that the prepared mixture does not fall on the leaves of the plants.

We take a 3-liter jar and fill it with water up to the “shoulder”. Add 100 g of fresh yeast diluted in warm water and half a cup of sugar. We cover the jar with gauze, take it to a warm place, shake it periodically. When fermentation stops, the solution is almost ready. This mixture is diluted with water. Then we take 1 cup of the solution and pour it into 10 liters of water. Each bush needs about 1 liter of such top dressing. To make up for the lack of potassium and calcium, the soil should also be watered with ash infusion.

However, yeast top dressing will work effectively if the earth is well warmed up.

Dry yeast is also used: 10 g per 10 liters and 2 tbsp. l. Sahara. Then everything is the same as with fresh yeast.

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Landing and care open ground behind this marvelous flower will be considered in stages in this article. Proper planting is the key to abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the weaving variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

Shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the flower arches of amazing beauty more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, well-camouflaged old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with its presence by a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, however, in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of rose is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Bud sizes can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once flowering species and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard at a distance, some are fragrant slightly audibly, subtly and gently.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a place

This culture will thrive on sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for her, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by unsuitable soil for climbing roses, then be sure to dilute it with suitable soil. Thus, sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All procedures for adapting the land should be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not grown before. If it doesn’t work out otherwise, then before planting, you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a slight hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” a part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cooling, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the advent of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer, the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May are the most optimal timing for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose when spring or fall is best

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from autumn ones. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in spring will be a little behind in development, will require you to pay more attention to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm.
• Dig a large hole for the roots to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you plant several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also deepened by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bent up!
• Planting a climbing rose in spring involves introducing nutrient soil into the hole. Approximately 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will please your rose.
• After planting, the soil is slightly trampled down and watered abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to do this or not to do it, if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such an escape must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient light. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “junction” site, which promotes fusion. If the vaccination site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen clod, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, we remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with powdered charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system carefully examined. You can first add the Kornevin stimulator to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots if possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored cloth - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-solar day, so that subsequently the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried in the soil by about 10 cm.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the appearance of the buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so follow the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species quite picky about top dressing. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rosa" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organics - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then pour the plant under the root with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can start slowly making phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the upcoming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Climbing rose care in the first year of planting

How does it differ from the standard requirements? From competent care in the first year of a plant’s life, it depends further development and blooming splendor. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If they stand sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not interfere. After 10-12 days after the removal of the hilling soil, you can proceed to the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further proper formation of the shrub.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the advent of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in autumn for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped with protective material right on it. The base of the bush is spudded in the manner described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long flowering, has a positive effect on health and vitality climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning is done at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (we choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not present, then about 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of the replacement basal branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (also measured from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to cut a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up a pruner when buds begin to swell on the branches from below (the last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its forces into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplantation. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, as the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances so require, transplanting a rose in a climbing spring to another place is also possible. As soon as the earth thaws after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug (moving in a circular fashion), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, even if the pit is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When transplanting, the same rules are followed as with standard planting - the roots straighten out and go down, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the groups of climbers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing climber roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half the entire length!

Ramblers are precisely climbing roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, cuttings, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if the seed is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, independently harvested seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or garden do not carry varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seed

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of growing the plant. After we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, cover with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also impregnated with peroxide.

The resulting "sandwich" is placed in a plastic bag and hidden in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate earth mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the easiest way to breed, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the location of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (smooth) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A cutting is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered from above glass jar and put in a well-lit area.

Now you will need to periodically water the stalk (without removing the banks) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small groove bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​wild rose

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a wild rose bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. Best time for this operation - the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the wild rose should be generously watered.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. In this kind of "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we firmly press the eye to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is spudded, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly loosened, and with the advent of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Empirically, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Rose sawfly caterpillar on a rose
Rose affected by spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after putting on gardening gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need help. chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you deal with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all affected fragments - it should help.

The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence uninvited guest. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood decoction give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the the best means protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes a double treatment of roses with this preparation is enough for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to reviews experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, extending not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniothyrium (bark burn).

powdery mildew
bacterial cancer

There are no cures for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but serious attitude prevention minimizes the risk of disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulphate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulphate are the most frequently recommended preventive measures.

Conyothyrium infestation can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the moment the kidneys awaken, the plant can be treated with 3% iron sulphate, the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case, while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such sprays are often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is to make your favorite flowers delight your eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering. It is simply unrealistic to mention all the winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Rebloom - distinguishing feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid the arch or wall of the building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

Boasts rich cupped flowers pink shade, undemanding to care, re-flowering, aroma with light notes of nutmeg. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating flowering, about five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot hue, gradually turning into a cream color. Very fond of sunlit places, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, the aroma is weak.

Photo of a climbing rose variety "Polka":

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious terry rose with large (12 cm in diameter) deep red flowers. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of red. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petal. It has increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very gentle, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows up to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, black spot and ashtray should be avoided.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly reminiscent of cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering the branches are simply covered with buds, so that foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the peculiarity of slowly opening for about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-blooming variety that blooms slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry hue or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. Blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the Parade variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, refined aroma. The variety is hardy, re-blooming, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. A multi-petalled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety "Casino", photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices”. Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with a reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and replanting, a rough idea of ​​​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can put my advice into practice.

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