What are rooted roses. Own-rooted roses: the benefits and rules of growing roses on their own roots

I'm currently wondering if Louise Odier and Morden Centennial roses are native rooted?
Why am I asking .. I would like to have a rose, but I would not want to bother much with wrapping it up for the winter ..
And as I understand it, own-rooted ones are just less picky with this, right?

It is better to ask the seller about the grafting or root property of these varieties. They could both graft and cut.
With regards to winter hardiness, disputes are ongoing everywhere and always, which is better. But this, in my opinion, is like arguing about the primacy and secondary origin of the chicken and the egg.
I think it's better to look at this issue from a slightly different perspective: which roses are best for your climate and your soils. Equally good recipes was not and cannot be
In the southern regions, own-rooted roses, if you do not give them plenty of moisture, grow and bloom poorly. Droughts also do not add health to them. But in other regions, where there is enough snow in winter, despite the low temperature, own-rooted ones will behave better. About the tundra and forest-tundra, a separate conversation. There, only in containers.
I will try to structure what I once read and tried, and was deposited in my head in the form of pros and cons of both.
Let's start with rooted ones.
Pros (cons in brackets)
1. After 3-4 years, you get a fairly powerful mature plant(provided that these first notorious 3-4 years will be worn with them as with young children)
2. In the future, you will be deprived of such manipulations as cutting out wild shoots (a dubious statement for roses grafted with a name, because when buying it, you have a specially treated rootstock, such as a canina rose, which practically does not form it. This does not apply, of course, to roses bought from sellers of unknown reputation)
Oops ... From the pros it seems everything
Grafted:
Pros (cons in brackets)
1. In the first season, you can get a well-developed plant with full flowering. (I don’t see any cons)
2. A lot of varieties that can decorate any site and turn it into a personal paradise on earth. And in a short time. And lots of new stuff!
The remaining pluses are indicated in brackets when characterizing own-rooted ones.
Disadvantages of the vaccinated, which are often used as arguments in disputes:
- cutting out shoots
Sorry, this question is incorrect. It depends on how they planted, as well as on agricultural technology.
-grafted roses delight owners up to 10 years.
Again, it is debatable: agricultural technology still rules! The grafted rose from my mother-in-law has been "earing" for 20 (!) years, though it was brought from England. Therefore, another appeal is justified: if you want fewer problems, buy roses from well-known companies in their original packaging, etc., and more.
You can't remember everything But the argument is endless, for myself I decided in favor of the vaccinated. And no one is forbidden to take cuttings from them and conduct experiments
And the last.
Quote:
"And you have Helga, such a promising inscription under the nickname, so probably everyone is hoping for your help in the form of advice, and not just the words "read the previous topics""
Great advice, by the way! Let's not get personal, please. A person helps, so let's be grateful.
And yet, everything is purely IMHO!

25.02.2016

Grafted roses are obtained by budding and grow on foreign, stronger and more powerful roots.
The introduction of budding has accelerated the process of reproduction of roses. Even weak roses began to survive on powerful stock roots. Not every rose can grow from a cutting, but any variety can be grafted.
The disadvantage of grafted roses is that in the northern regions their cultivation requires a lot of effort, otherwise they will freeze in winter.
In case of unsuccessful wintering, the above-ground part freezes completely or rots - it rots and only the roots of the stock remain, from which wild rose hips grow in spring. However, there is experience that an occluded rose planted with a graft 2.5 cm below ground level will be as winter-hardy as a native root.
Some varieties, such as Peace and Amber Queen, can be seriously affected by grafting with weak eyes.

Own-rooted roses are roses grown by rooting cuttings, as well as from layering or dividing the bush.
Own-rooted roses have many advantages: winter hardiness, disease resistance, abundant flowering, do not form root shoots. The bush never "runs wild".
The two main advantages of own-rooted roses are increased winter hardiness and resistance to mosaic virus.
The strength of growth and flowering in most varieties of own-rooted roses is the same as in grafted ones. There are varieties that enter the growing season and flowering even earlier than grafted plants. Varieties of own-rooted roses, which take root quickly and develop a deep root system, are distinguished by good development and frost resistance.
Own-rooted roses have such a distinctive, important quality as the appearance of new shoots from the adventitious buds of the root neck and root, therefore, if the aerial part of the bush dies during overwintering, the plant remains alive, as the shoots of the same variety are renewed. The vaccinated do not have this property. This is very important for cultivation in northern regions.
Own-rooted roses do not form wild shoots, and the rose does not turn into a wild rose.

Although, of course, there are difficulties. Own-rooted seedlings are usually supplied by nurseries in a small p9 pot (0.7 l), and in the first two years, seedlings have to intensively build up the root system. As a result, it is difficult for them to withstand adverse weather conditions and, as a result, they often die from frost in harsh winters.
Also, own-rooted roses are more demanding on the soil.

In general, both grafted and own-rooted roses have advantages. We can say that nothing accelerates the growth of a rose like a powerful rootstock, but its own roots eliminate many problems when growing.
George S. Thomas (American rose grower of the early 20th century) conducted joint experiments with grafted and own-rooted roses.
He eventually concluded that native-rooted roses, with the exception of ramblers and species roses, required a climate "without extremes of any kind" to succeed.
For an experienced grower, it does not matter whether to buy a budded or own-rooted rose. It all depends on personal preferences, as well as on the climatic zone of residence.
So, for example, south of Voronezh (from 5 or more zones), it is preferable to grow grafted roses.
Today, most European nurseries grow on their own roots, usually old roses, ground cover, park, musk hybrids, Wichurana hybrid, multiflora hybrid, ramblers, and most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.
Although many floribunda and climbing roses also grow well on their own roots.

Own-rooted roses.
Soils.
For self-rooted seedlings, light, cultivated, drained soils rich in humus are best suited. Own-rooted roses grow well on them, tolerate winter well and bloom profusely. Heavy clay soils that do not warm up sufficiently are not suitable. Own-rooted roses are recommended to be planted on a site with a slight slope on the south or south-west side so that they are protected from the northern winds. If there is no natural slope, then artificially raised beds can be created so that the water drains well and the soil warms up.
Landing. Seedlings are removed from the pots along with the clod of earth in which they developed, and planted in the ground. Whom not to destroy! The depth of the planting pits should be 3-4 cm higher than the root neck, i.e. we plant with a depth of 3-4 cm. Due to the deep planting, the seedlings develop additional adventitious roots.
Then you need to pour abundantly and mulch with peat or humus.
Since, in own-rooted roses, after planting, the root system begins to actively develop, which is located horizontally, for proper vegetation and flowering, own-rooted roses need a lot of water. Prolonged drought can lead to overheating of the roots, after which the plant will weaken, stop growing and stop flowering.

It is important to regularly loosen the soil so that a crust does not form after watering and rains.

Care.
Top dressing.
Recommended in summer period Apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks. It is better to use a solution of fresh mullein with the addition mineral fertilizers.
From the 2nd half of summer, it is necessary to begin work that contributes to the cessation of growth and the appearance of shoots. In July, they finish cutting flowers, and from the beginning of August, the application of nitrogenous fertilizers is not recommended. As a top dressing, it is better to use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Preparing for winter.
Shelter.
In October-November, all growing tops of the shoots are cut off, all young shoots are removed from the main bush.
Bushes spud about 15cm.
With the onset of stable night frosts (below -10-12 gr.) They create additional insulation from leaves and spruce branches to a height of about 15-20 cm.
In the first year, own-rooted roses need to be insulated especially carefully.
Upon reaching the age of 2, they will be able to do in the winter with only one hilling.

Take off winter shelter needed gradually. When the snow melts, it is recommended to remove the leaves, and only after the soil has completely thawed, the ground near the bushes is razed, and when buds appear, the spruce branches are removed.

ROSES. OWN-ROOT OR GRAFTED. GROWTH.

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Own-rooted or grafted.

Grafted roses are now found on sale more often than own-rooted ones - this is due to the simpler process of producing grafted roses.

Nurseries take two-year-old rootstocks and, grafting a rose on them, in a year they get quite adult seedlings of a presentation.

Cuttings roses need to be grown from scratch for several years. It is not profitable for large enterprises.

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Both grafted and own-rooted roses have their advantages.

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Some gardeners look exclusively for own-rooted roses, while others trust only grafted roses.

The choice is yours.

In our practice, both of them have proven themselves well, of course, with the right approach to their features.

Growth rate and strength:

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Grafted roses, the first couple of years after planting, overtake own-rooted roses in growth, as they are grafted onto a rootstock that is already 2-3 years old.

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Own-rooted in the first years lag behind the vaccinated, gaining strength by the third - fourth year. That's when she can even overtake the grafted rose in terms of growth and flowering.

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Winter hardiness:

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Winter hardiness depends on many factors. But, if we consider the same variety, on its roots and grafted, then the own-rooted rosette will be inferior to the grafted one only in the first couple of years. Then she gains strength and builds up the root system just as well. Their winter hardiness is approximately equalized.

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Recovery:

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If, suddenly, after a harsh winter, rose bushes freeze slightly, then the own root is restored from underground buds.

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And the grafted rose, freezing, will only give rosehip shoots from under the ground. Although this problem can be solved by initially deepening the grafted rose bush. In this case, cultural renewal buds are stored underground.

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growth:

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The advantage of a self-rooted rose is that it does not give wild shoots, as happens with a grafted one.

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Used as rootstocks for roses different kinds rose hips, only a few of them do not give root shoots. Such shoots must be removed in a timely manner so that it does not drown out the main bush.

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Lifespan:

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The life span of a grafted rose is at best 10-12 years. There is always a gradual rejection of the scion from the stock. Depending on the quality of the vaccination and compatibility, this process takes a different time, sometimes roses die already for 3-5 years.

It is good if, when planting, the graft was deepened (by 10 centimeters, depending on the soil) and the rose managed to move to its roots by the time the rootstock was rejected.

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Own-rooted roses live much longer than grafted ones. With proper care, their age reaches 30-40 years.

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Root system:

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Own-rooted roses have a fibrous root system with shorter and more branched roots that are relatively shallow compared to rootstock roots in grafted roses. Therefore, it is easier to carry out top dressing and it is possible to make a not very deep planting hole. Such a rose can grow on soils with close groundwater, where the grafted rose will not feel very good.

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At the same time, the grafted rose has a long tap root. She will suffer less from a lack of moisture than a self-rooted rose.

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Bloom:

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It is noticed that own-rooted roses bloom more intensively than grafted roses of the same variety by 10-15%.

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Otherwise (height, shape of the bush, color and other qualities of the variety), there are practically no differences.

Wild growth.

It happens that wild shoots grow in grafted roses.

It grows below the grafting site, directly from the rootstock. It must be removed immediately by digging a little bush and cutting it from the base.

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It can be difficult for an inexperienced gardener to understand whether the growth is coming from a rootstock or is it a cultural escape.

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Many people think that in cultivated roses a leaf consists of five leaves, and in wild roses of seven. But it's not. Among modern roses, there are many varieties with seven and even nine leaves per leaf.

Therefore, before cutting out the growth, make sure that it is really different from the main bush.

Wild growth is usually more matte and does not have the reddish tinge on young shoots that many varietal roses have.

This is about 400 varieties of garden roses of domestic and foreign selection and not greenhouse varieties. Indoor roses (greenhouse) in our gardens often turn out to be non-hardy and (or) unstable to diseases. We grow roses in the Noginsk district (east) of the Moscow region. The varieties we offer grow in our open field for more than one year.

Objectively:

• In own-rooted roses, it is impossible for wild-growing shoots to appear from the roots, as in grafted ones. That is, you do not need to constantly dig out the roots and carefully cut out the wild shoots.
• Rooted ones are practically eternal. There is a rose in Germany that is over 800 years old. We grow 4 roses of the Morning of Moscow variety, which were drawn more than 40 years ago. Paternal bush "Morning of Moscow" (grafted) lived only 3 years. Grafted roses live from 3 to 10 years with good care.

Subjectively, i.e. market realities:

Good, "correct" grafted roses were once grown in the USSR in accordance with the then existing GOSTs. Such roses were grown for 2-2.5 years on the roots of wild rose, already 2-3 years old (4-5 years in total). Rose hips, in order to suit our climate, should only be "canina" and not just any, but a specially selected line that does not produce shoots from the roots. Such roses grow well for several years (until they get tired of the freeloader from above - a cultivated rose). It is only interesting if anyone has seen these “correct” roses for sale for the last 15-20 years. We are not. The market demands savings. That's all they save. Someone at the growing time (6-8 months for the rosehip root + 2-3 months for the growth of the graft). Someone takes a wild rose, "what it was" in the nearest thickets. The most advanced organize the export of spent roses from foreign greenhouses after winter distillation colors. They are cut, dipped in green paraffin (to give "freshness"), packaged in beautiful packaging, which does not always correspond to the variety, and brought to us.

Problems, unfortunately, can be with roses from worthy European nurseries. You can get roses on a rootstock that does not hibernate with us. To save these varieties, you have to immediately root cuttings from them.

In this respect, own-rooted roses are beyond suspicion. They do not have a rootstock of unknown origin. Objective publications regarding the benefits of own-rooted roses can be found in Floriculture magazines for the 70-80s.

We sell roses grown in containers with leaves.

In spring 2020, prices for most roses will be as follows:

Prices for roses in containers:

• 0.5 liters (one-year-olds) - from 500 to 600 rubles, depending on the complexity of growing the variety.
• 1 liter (two-year-old) - 600-700 rubles.

In limited quantities, there are older roses, both grafted and on their own roots. They can be in containers from 4 to 10 liters. Availability and cost to be agreed.

Orders are delivered to the house (between Dinamo and Dmitrovskaya metro stations) on the agreed day or self-delivery from a 60 km site is possible. along the Shchelkovo highway.

Rose seedlings of the first year, please note that depending on the variety, the bushes are different!

An example of seedlings of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd years.

One more example

Large containers in containers from 4 to 10 liters. In this case, an example of seedlings in 10 liter containers is presented.

Another example of rose seedlings.

Many buyers ask about the age of roses

We answer: we cut roses in May-June. In the process of growth, we transplant from a tiny pot, where the cutting was rooted - first at 0.25 liters, then at 0.5 liters. We grow until November - December in the greenhouse, then we send it to the basement for 2-3 months (we light it up if necessary). We get from the basement in February-March (according to the weather) and into the greenhouse. We sell in April-May with leaves. It turns out that the first year we grow a rose for 9-12 months. In nature, the rose grows from May to September-October, i.e. only 5-6 months and everyone thinks it's a year. It is not clear how to count in our case. In the summer, unsold roses are transplanted into containers of 1-2 liters and sold for next year. Roses in any offered containers are quite viable and grow well over the summer for further wintering in the ground with shelter.

We do not mail roses
The Post Office cannot guarantee the safety of live seedlings. After acquiring a plant, before planting in the ground, roses should be in the brightest place and watered as indoor plant. Our roses have a closed root system. And this is not at all what some "innovators" mean - dug out of the ground, cut off the roots and stuck it in a bag with sawdust or peat. Our roses are grown in containers (this was recorded by the photographs taken by us by the consumer magazine) from the very beginning of rooting. We do not hide from anyone how we grow, preserve and propagate our roses. We have already visited and filmed the magazine "Consumer - Garden Affairs", TNT channel for the transfer of "Instructions for Use". The Garden and Garden magazine gives our recommendations on the correct purchase of roses, their care, shelter for the winter, propagation by cuttings.

Own-rooted roses are a culture that is very demanding on the soil, its structure, humidity, temperature, availability nutrients. Own-rooted roses grow well, bloom and overwinter only on drained, deeply cultivated (by 50-60 cm), light, humus-rich soils with a low level of standing groundwater (not higher than 1 m). Heavy, clayey, poorly warmed soils are not suitable for the cultivation of own-rooted roses, especially varieties from the Hybrid Tea group.
The site for growing own-rooted roses should be with a slight slope to the south or southwest, protected from the north winds. In the absence of a natural slope, own-rooted roses should be planted in raised beds; in this case, a good outflow of water and warming of the soil are ensured.
Roses are planted in pre-prepared pits (potted plants are planted with a clod of earth), deepening by 3-4 cm. With such a somewhat deep planting of a bush, an opportunity is created for additional development adventitious roots.
The distances for row planting of young seedlings are as follows: for Polyanthus, Floribunda - 25x50 cm, Hybrid Tea - 35x50 cm, Climbing and other vigorous roses - 100x200 cm. After planting and abundant watering, the holes should be mulched with humus or peat.
For normal vegetation, roses need abundant watering, since many of them have roots located in the upper soil layer during the first year of vegetation. During a prolonged drought, the upper root layer of the soil is strongly overheated, so much so that the plants stop growing and flowering. It is necessary to regularly loosen the soil, as after watering and rains a crust forms, which worsens the aeration of the soil.
Annual self-rooted roses on light, deeply cultivated soils grow strongly in August - September. By this time, they are well rooted, deeply penetrating, highly branched roots are formed with a large number of small suction roots concentrated at the ends of the lateral roots. This provides a strong growth of above-ground shoots and abundant flowering. During the summer, liquid top dressing is given every 10-15 days. For this, a solution of fresh mullein with the addition of mineral fertilizers is recommended.
Since most of the roses common in culture are heat-loving, evergreens and they do not have a natural preparation for winter, agricultural technology in the second half of summer should be aimed at promoting the ripening of shoots and cessation of growth. To do this, they stop cutting flowers, and by mid-July - early August, nitrogenous top dressing is stopped; only potash-phosphorus fertilizers are used. Preparation for winter (October, November) consists in pruning all growing grassy shoots and hilling roses to a height of about 15 cm. After established frosts (10-15 °), hilled plants are additionally insulated with spruce branches or a layer of leaves to a height of 20-25 cm. Own-rooted roses the first year of planting need especially careful warming.
Winter shelter from roses is recommended to be removed gradually: after the snow melts, they are removed insulation material, with complete thawing of the soil, roses are unraveled, leaving spruce branches on them as shading until the buds begin to grow.
The result of overwintering of own-rooted roses in the open field is affected not so much by low temperatures as by an excess of moisture in the soil in autumn and spring. Often, well-overwintered plants die off in the spring due to wetting and damping, especially if the site is not provided with water flow and the winter shelter is not removed from the roses for a long time.

The relative stability of heat-loving native-rooted roses depends not so much on the stability of the above-ground vegetative mass of the bush, but on the strength of development and stability of the root system. The most hardy in wintering and resistant to other adverse conditions of open ground are varieties with a deep, highly branched root system. After severe damage or almost complete death of the aerial part of the bush during the winter, such plants recover very quickly in the spring due to the growth of 2-3 buds preserved at the base of the bush.
Weak winter hardiness is characteristic of varieties with a superficial underdeveloped root system, the roots of such plants are damaged or die completely when waterlogged or sharp fluctuations in soil temperature. Along with this, the depth of occurrence, the branching of the root system, and, consequently, the strength of the growth of above-ground shoots also largely depend on the fertility and depth of tillage.
Finely cultivated soil (to a depth of 20-25 m) with a heavy clay horizon underlying the cultural layer limits the development of a full-fledged root system and the aerial part of the bush. Under these conditions, own-rooted roses, especially varieties with a superficial root system, lag behind in development from those grafted onto wild rose (bush height decreases, branching, abundance of flowering).
On a plot with deeply cultivated light fertile soil, many varieties not only do not lag behind the grafted plants in terms of bush development and overall resistance, but also surpass them. On light, fertile soils, the property of increased tillering, characteristic of own-rooted roses, is especially pronounced - the formation of a mass of shoots from the base of the bush. With increasing age, own-rooted roses become more powerful, as the number of tillering shoots continuously increases. In three - four-year-old own-rooted roses, lignified thickened areas are formed at the base of the bush; over the years, they grow and serve as an additional reserve for the formation of a large number of rudiments of new tillering shoots. When digging up such overgrown old plants, they can be propagated by dividing the bush.
The power of a self-rooted rose bush also increases due to the rooting of individual stems that make up its composition. Separate stems or groups of stems with new adventitious roots formed at their base can be easily separated as independent young seedlings - to “rejuvenate” the bush.
Own-rooted roses have recently become more and more widely used for landscaping cities and towns in our country. In this case, the main place should be given to the most promising for soil culture roses from the groups: Pletistys, Semi-climbing, Floribunda and Polyanthus.

All varieties of Climbing - small-flowered and large-flowered - and semi-climbing roses are distinguished by high (almost absolute) winter hardiness, unpretentiousness. At Climbing and Semi-Climbing roses already in early age a powerful root system develops: for example, in three-year-old plants of Paul's Scarlet Climber, the length of the roots reaches 150 cm. plants already in the second - third year of vegetation, the graft passes to its own roots, and the stock dies off over the years.All this indicates that it is advisable to grow Climbing and Semi-Climbing roses on their roots, and not graft on wild roses.

Most varieties of the Floribunda and Polyanthus groups also grow well and winter on their roots, although they are somewhat inferior in resistance to Climbing and Semi-Climbing.
In the Floribunda group, varieties of the latest selection are of particular interest, for example, Alain, Centenaire de Lourdes, Iceberg, Jiminy Cricket and others, which are distinguished by their original bright colors and a more perfect flower shape than the old Hybrid-Polyanthus roses. Own-rooted plants of these varieties are unpretentious, resistant to fungal diseases, hibernate almost without lunge.

Own-rooted polyanthus roses are mostly unpretentious in culture, and some varieties are distinguished by the highest winter hardiness among heat-loving roses. With weak warming (hilling up with earth by 15-20 cm and shelter with a layer of oak leaves), 90-100% of such varieties as Denise Cassegrain, Eulalia Berridge, Yvonne Rabier, Rote Teschendorff, Orange Triumph and others overwinter annually.

In the miniature group, many varieties are quite winter-hardy and can be used for ground plantings (Bito, Sunshine, Perla de Alcanada, Little Buckaroo, etc.). Less winter-hardy varieties Grenadine, Marilyn, Yellow Doll and many more can be used successfully in potted greenhouse and indoor culture.

Own-rooted plants of most varieties of the Hybrid Tea group grow weakly and bloom (especially in the first year of vegetation); some of the plants die after planting in the ground, the other - during the winter.
The mass attack of young self-rooted seedlings occurs because the root system of hybrid tea roses lags behind in development from other groups of roses and remains superficial, fibrous, with a large number of primary, brittle, quickly dying roots for 1-2 years. A "real" root system with large, stable skeletal roots is formed, as a rule, by the end of the second year of vegetation.
Only a few varieties with a fast growing, deep penetrating, highly branched root system can be successfully grown outdoors. These include: Curly Pink, M-me Rene Collette, Moscow Morning and some others. The best varieties Hybrid tea roses and related roses of the Grandiflora group can be successfully grown on their own roots in southern regions our country and in greenhouses for cutting.

Roses of the Remontant group grow well, bloom and overwinter on their roots. However, the decorative qualities of the bulk of the varieties of this group are lower, therefore, only a limited number of varieties can be recommended for self-root propagation and cultivation: Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. John Laing, Georg Arends, Eugene Fiirst.

Rooted annual seedlings cold-resistant park roses from the groups: Spinosissima, Alba, Lutea, Centifolia, Moss, French and others are characterized by poor resistance during the first year of culture. The massive loss of plants after planting in the ground is explained by the fact that the cuttings of park roses take root more slowly and form a stable root system. By the time of planting in the ground in a permanent place, annual seedlings of park roses have almost no above-ground growth; single weak roots die off with excess moisture in the soil, drying, light frost, etc. Taking into account such features of park roses, it is recommended to grow rooted cuttings of park roses for two years in the most favorable conditions.

An exception are varieties and varieties of wrinkled roses. In representatives of this group of roses, annual rooted cuttings have a well-developed stable root system and fairly strong above-ground growths. Many varieties of this group grow well on their roots.

Old self-rooted plants can be propagated by numerous root offspring and dividing the bush.