What size should an annual apple tree seedling be? Apple tree seedlings growing technology. Pruning a young apple tree in spring

By pruning young seedlings, a subsequent appearance an adult tree. In addition, the amount of the future harvest depends on the correctness of the process. Therefore, the question arises: "How to cut an apple tree seedling?" Let us consider in more detail the technology of this action at various stages of the formation of a fruit tree.

Basic information about pruning apple trees

In order for the formation of the crown of apple trees to occur properly, it is necessary to carry out timely and regular pruning. Also, this process helps to stimulate proper development, growth and the formation of full-fledged beneficial fruits.

By cutting off the branches of the apple tree, you can achieve various necessary goals, namely:

Formation of not only a beautiful and correct crown, but also comfortable for the future collection of ripening fruits.
Strengthening the young by removing competing, but less developed neighboring shoots, which contributes to the full growth of the entire seedling.
Contributing to the quantitative growth of branches capable of producing a full harvest. For this, dried and improperly developed specimens are removed.
Removing some branches to fully illuminate the entire tree with the rays of the sun.
Preparatory pruning for the winter cold season.

It is important to know! Apple tree saplings are pruned during spring and autumn. Very rarely, this process is performed in the summer. Right choice the season depends entirely on the need to obtain a certain result.

But the question still remains, how and when to cut apple trees, because the vague concepts of "autumn" and "spring" do not give an exact answer. Let's try to find answers to all the questions posed.

Rules for pruning seedlings in the autumn

Late autumn is the best time to prune apple trees. This is the period when the leaves have completely fallen off and the tree goes into hibernation mode. At this time, the main task of trimming is to remove dead and damaged elements.

Important! In no case should you start processing the tree after the onset of frost, as this can lead to the death of the entire plant.

So, next question: "How to properly prune an apple tree in the fall?" There is a certain scheme here, which determines the sequence of actions:

Initially, you need to start eliminating the largest specimens that have been damaged or rotted for various reasons.
In places of abundant saturation with branches, it is required to thin out the crown. In the course of this work, it is worth removing only the weakest and inferiorly developed shoots.
It is also important to remove branches that grow at an acute angle to the trunk. This type can quickly break under the weight of ripe fruits, or cause inconvenience when harvesting.
The cuts need to be processed, since the winter cold can destroy an unprotected tree. For this, a special garden pitch is used. You can also use oil paint.
It is imperative to incinerate all removed waste, as it can become a source of spread of diseases.

How to prune an apple tree in the spring

Before pruning an apple tree, it is also important to choose the right period and study the exact technology for carrying out this action.

The period for pruning is selected the earliest, namely before the onset of swelling of the kidneys.

The spring period is the most successful time for this process, since the tree recovers faster and gains strength.

Consider the rules for pruning an apple tree in spring:

For cuts, you must first prepare a garden pitch.
In the process of trimming, it is necessary to ensure that the cut passes over the eyes.
You should definitely cut off last year's shoots.
The length of the cut branches depends on the variety of the fruit tree: dwarf species - pruning is carried out for 2 or 3 eyes; apple tree of medium height - at least 5 eyes; tall apple tree - 8 or more eyes.

In addition to the listed technologies, there are certain recommendations for the processing of one-year and two-year-old apple trees.

Processing an annual seedling

When planting apple tree seedlings that do not yet have branches, it is necessary to immediately cut off the top so that in the end a small tree remains, no more than 1 m high.This method allows new branches to develop already in the first year of life, so it will soon be possible to practice crown formation.

In the event that annual seedlings already have branches, then the following processing methods are used:

The removal of young shoots is carried out along the entire trunk up to a height of 70 cm.
Further, specimens are removed that extend from the trunk at an acute angle.
Branches extending at right angles from the trunk must be shortened to the third or fifth bud.

Interesting! A tree with branches of an almost horizontal arrangement provides a ripe crop much earlier. In addition, the crown of this type is much stronger than other types.

Processing a two-year-old apple tree

At the age of two years, the apple tree sapling already has a formed trunk of a small diameter and branches extending from it. After planting it, it is required to remove all unnecessary branches, leaving from 3 to 5 most developed shoots. The angle between the trunk and the branch must be wide enough. Ultimately, the branches left behind will become the strongest branches of a mature tree.

The most central branch must be formed from the most mature and developed ocellus. It is from here that the branch should grow in the vertical direction. It is also necessary to take into account that the branch should be several buds longer than the others. All other branches are pruned as follows:

The specimens located at the bottom of the tree should be longer.
In the upper part, they are cut so that their length is shorter by a distance of at least 30 cm.

As a result of these actions, a crown is formed, which has the following characteristics: sufficient strength and attractive roundness.

After that, it is not recommended to touch the planted and cut seedling for several years. Only the removal of damaged and dried out branches is allowed.

Conclusion

In order for a planted apple tree seedling to give a full harvest as soon as possible, it is necessary to carry out timely and regular pruning in accordance with all requirements. It takes a little effort to be proud of the beautiful self-grown fruit trees.

A good garden will delight its owner for many years.

But to get such a treasure, you need to work hard first.

At any stage you can make a mistake, which will nullify all efforts.

The “wrong” seedling may simply not take root. Taking a seedling from an apple tree yourself without a clear understanding of how to choose an apple tree seedling is too risky.

In this article we will tell you how to avoid these mistakes and successfully grow an apple tree that will delight for many years.

This first step should not be underestimated. It depends on the choice of a seedling in many ways whether you will be able to grow a healthy tree.

Take the question seriously:

Find out which apple varieties are suitable for your region... This is very important, because a young tree that is not adapted to such a climate can die long before it begins to bear fruit.
It is best to contact your local gardening organization or nursery with this question. You can find their addresses on the Internet.
Pay attention to customer reviews. Choose your company responsibly.
Most difficult stage choice - practical. It all depends on knowledge and care.

Selection of seedlings in the nursery.

First of all, everyone seedlings can be divided into three groups depending on the level of the rootstock, i.e. the stem and root system. When choosing one or another type, you need to take into account the features of the site.

There are such types:

IMPORTANT! If your seedlings have thorns, don't buy it. Most likely, they give out a wild game for a varietal apple tree.

Contact of the root system with groundwater is highly undesirable. Such an apple tree will be weak and painful, its harvest will be extremely poor. When buying a seedling, do not forget about the importance of this factor.

The ideal age for a seedling is 1–2 years. The youth of a tree is a guarantee that it will take root better in a new place.

How determine visually the age of the seedling? An annual plant should not have developed branches; in a two-year-old plant, you can count 2-3 additional branches.

Examine the root system. It must not be damaged. Healthy roots slightly wet, but by no means rotten; they should be elastic and not brittle.

The state of the bark also has great importance... Gently pick off the bark with your fingernail - the stem should be green.

It's better do not buy trees that have leaves... They will most likely not take root anymore.

How much do apple tree seedlings cost?

Seedlings with an open root system are cheaper than those sold in a container. The cost of an apple tree seedling depends on the variety and quality of the tree, as well as specifically on the selling company. On average, be guided by a price of about 300 rubles, although some nurseries may ask for 800 rubles.

Watch the tutorial video on how to choose the right apple seedling:

How are apple seedlings grown?

Brave gardeners can try grow a seedling yourself... It is not so difficult, especially in stock there is at least elementary knowledge of the school course in biology. Let's consider the main methods.

Growing apple seedlings from seeds

Method one -. Even small children think about whether an apple tree will grow from an accidentally dropped seed.

The reality is not that simple. There have been cases when a beautiful tree with delicious fruits grew from a seed, but there is a possibility that the grown apple tree will not lose the "maternal" properties of the wild and all your efforts will be in vain.

But if the difficulties and possible risks do not scare you, follow our advice:

Rinse mature brown seeds in running water to remove the substance that prevents it from germinating. The best thing place the seeds in water for 3 days.
Then place the seeds in the refrigerator (this process is called stratification). To do this, you need to prepare dishes filled with slightly damp sand. The seeds should last for about two months in the refrigerator. It is best to start stratification in early January..
In the refrigerator, the seeds should germinate. They need to be planted in specially prepared boxes (at the bottom of which drainage should be poured, on top - a nutrient mixture). The boxes should be placed on a well-lit windowsill.
Easy to recognize the wild even in the early stages: its leaves are bright green, and there are already short spines on the shoots. It's better not to waste your time on them. Or use the wild game as a rootstock, to which the desired variety has already been grafted.

From the cutting

Apple trees also propagate by cuttings.

How to make a seedling from an apple tree branch has been known for a long time. In order to grow a tree in this way, you need prepare the stock - choose a tree grown from seeds or (which is much better) a wild game.

Preparing the cuttings for the stock.

You need to graft the stalk of the tree you need to the roots of such a tree. It is very important to correctly combine the stock and the cutting.

For a wild bonsai better fit a stalk of a columnar apple tree, and an apple tree grown from a seed will well accept a stalk of an ordinary tall tree.

The shank must be not older than one year... We will describe in detail how to make a seedling from an apple tree below.

How to grow apple seedlings from a branch

Another way is dig a branch into the ground.

In the fall, the tree is planted with a slope so that the young shoots touch the ground. In the spring, the twigs are attached to the bud with staples. During the summer, they need to be hilled, and in the fall, ready-made seedlings are obtained.

Air layering or how to get seedlings from an old apple tree

Provide ground for a new root system to form.

It is more difficult to plant a seedling from a branch, so it is often more advisable to use the method of air layering.

So that the twig starts to take root, you need to surround it with moist soil. To begin with, choose a branch that will become a seedling - healthy, without branches, as thick as a regular pencil.

When the snow melts, this branch needs put on a polyethylene sleeve... Attach it, preferably with electrical tape. It will remain on the apple tree until steadily warm weather sets in. Then the sleeve is removed.

Need to find the border between the adult branch and the new growth - from this point, about 10 cm recede and an annular incision of about 1 cm is made, small cuts are also made to the left and right of it. All buds above the incisions must be removed.

Then a sleeve with a container is put on the branch. In the first three days in a container (you can use cut plastic bottle) put root growth stimulating liquid, then specially prepared soil, which must be constantly wet.

You can try any of these methods yourself at home. It is advisable to additionally consult with competent specialists.

See detailed video on how to get a seedling from an apple tree using the air layer method:

You can take a seedling from an apple tree yourself. You don't have to be an experienced gardener to do this.

If you want to get varietal apple tree, then you can use the parental shoot, which is sometimes enough just to dig in correctly.

The procedure is carried out in the spring... You can use young shoots no more than 1 year old.

They are placed in a hole about 10 cm deep. The twig is fixed to the peg. Thus, a shoot of 30-40 cm should remain above the ground... It is also necessary to rid the nearest site of weeds.

To be sure, root a few branches this way. In a year, some of them will take root. In the fall, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting.

IMPORTANT! Remember that large-fruited apple trees take root in this way worse than other varieties.

Apple tree sapling pruning

Do not forget that this is a rather complicated process that must be carried out strictly according to agrotechnical instructions.

You need to prune the seedling when it is at rest.

In warm climates, the ideal time will be autumn-winter, in temperate - the end of winter. Anyway, trimming should not be carried out at temperatures below -10 ° C.

The first pruning takes place in the first year after planting. Cropping in such early age will provide the bookmark for future skeletal branches.

One-year seedling you need to remove lateral shoots that are up to 70 cm from the ground level. Above this point, only those branches are removed that form an acute angle with the trunk. If the angle that the branch forms with the trunk is close to 90 °, the branch is cut to the fifth bud.

Biennial seedling looks almost like a mature tree. How to prune such apple tree seedlings? In this case, the following goal is pursued - to leave from 3 to 5 strongest shoots, forming a wide angle with the trunk.

In the future, they will become the main branches of the tree. It is necessary to form and center conductor... It is best to do this from the most developed kidney, which is about 3 kidneys higher than the others. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones. So wood.

Next 3-5 years it is better not to touch the apple tree, let it develop on its own.

How to distinguish a pear sapling from an apple tree?

It is sometimes difficult to distinguish different types of trees at such a young age, even for experienced gardeners.

Before the leaves appear, this is almost impossible. - the seller in the market could experiment with vaccinations. Recall general rules which will allow you not to become a victim of deception and determine how to choose an apple tree:

In annual apple trees, the color of the shoots is dark red-brown, while in pears it is yellowish-green.
On the shoots of apple trees there is a slight pubescence, pears usually do not have such a feature.
Shoots of pears have more pronounced cranking.
The buds of apple trees are wide and large. They fit snugly to the shoot. Pear buds are pointed and small, do not adhere tightly to the shoot.
The buds of apple trees swell and blossom later than that of a pear.
The root system in apple trees is more branched, and in pears, the stem.

When buying a seedling, you don't need to know about the peculiarities of the leaves of pears and apple trees. If the seedling already has leaves, you should not buy it. It is unlikely to take root successfully, and your efforts will be in vain.

How to grow an apple tree from a seedling?

Any gardener first you need to choose the time of planting the apple tree.

It can be spring or autumn, depending on the specific circumstances and climatic conditions of your region.

In any case, tree care begins in the spring.

Prepare the soil before planting... This means that the soil must be well loosened, rid of weeds, fertilized (depending on the season) and dug up again.

The planting hole will be a house for the seedling, it will reliably feed it.

Choose a place responsibly. This should be a well-lit area, preferably sheltered from the wind.

IMPORTANT! The preparation of the planting pit should be started 2 months before direct planting.

The seedling is still too vulnerable. Our task is to protect it from the negative factor of weather conditions. The tree needs to be fixed to a peg. It will be possible to remove it 2 years after planting. This must be done with extreme caution so as not to hurt the root system.

In the first week after planting, regular watering is very important, which will help not only saturate the tree nutrientsbut also to compact the soil. Gradually watering intervals it is necessary to reduce, but in hot weather it is impossible to spare water for a young tree.

The near-barrel section is required mulch... To do this, use compost, chicken droppings, vermicompost and rotted droppings, on top of this layer you need to put a small layer of straw.

Watch the video on how to mulch trees:

Required you need to prune one-year and two-year-old apple treesto form its skeletal branches.

In the summer, all care consists in regular watering and protecting the tree from pests. To avoid using chemicals, try attract birds to the garden.

It's easy to do - arrange feeders on the tree branches. This way the birds will know that a tasty treat awaits them in your garden.

If pests appear, you can collect them by hand from a young tree. In hot weather, do not water the tree during the day to avoid burns.

So that air flows to the root system, make punctures 30 cm deep at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk.

Preparing apple tree seedlings for winter.

A young apple tree needs to be spud to a height of 10–20 cm;
The area near the trunk must be mulched with humus or peat;
You can apply nitrogen or potash fertilizers. The lack of these substances will affect the quality of future fruits, therefore it is best to use complex fertilizers;
The trunk of the apple tree must be whitewashed with a solution of chalk;
To avoid breaking a weak young tree, it can be preliminarily.

Apple tree seedling dries up, how to save?

Before solving a problem, you need to understand it. reason, causing the apple tree to dry out. Then you can understand how to save a dried apple tree seedling.

Growing too much can prevent the seedling from developing. close trees or shrubs... In this case, you can transplant the tree to the required distance.

The problem can be caused by too close groundwater... Excess water simply displaces excess air from the soil, which is so necessary for a young root system. You can also solve the problem by replanting or regularly loosening the soil.

If groundwater interferes with more than one apple tree, you can dig drainage ditchesto help get rid of excess water.

IMPORTANT! The key to the successful growth of an apple tree is air access to the root system, so loosen the soil regularly. Do not plant an apple tree in a sandy or clay bud.

Gardening is not only difficult, but also very interesting. To grow a good apple tree from a seedling, you need to show both intelligence and care.

Remember, the most crucial stage is the choice of a seedling.
It is better to buy them from professional breeders. On the spontaneous market, you can unknowingly purchase another tree (an apple tree can be easily confused with a pear before the leaves appear).
Do not overuse fertilizers in the first year... The tree has enough watering and mulching.
Do not forget to rid the young apple tree of weeds. In the fall, you can add.
A very important procedure is tree pruning. Remember to do this to form the skeleton of the apple tree.
Pests can negatively affect the development of an apple tree... However, try not to poison them in the early years. chemicals... Involve to this business of birds.

Recruit birds for natural pest control.

Treat your landing site responsibly... Groundwater lying too close and trees and shrubs growing nearby can kill the apple tree.
Provide adequate air access to the root system. She really needs it.

A responsible approach to business will ensure your success.

In contact with

The most competent buyers already know that there are GOSTs for planting material (GOST R 53135-2008), according to which certain biometric requirements are imposed on the seedlings, depending on the age, rootstock and their growing zone. But few people know that the choice is not limited to the variety, stock, age and marketability of seedlings. There are also their various modifications associated with the peculiarities of growing technologies.

Growing technologies

According to the cultivation technologies, apple tree seedlings are divided into a one-year-old, a branched one-year-old, a two-year-old, a knip baum (knip bom), a modified two-year-old and a modified knip baum.

Which seedling to choose and what are these technologies for? You need to know the answers to these and other questions before you start laying an orchard.

Growing annuals

The simplest and most common technology for the production of seedlings is the cultivation of a standard annual. In the first field of the nursery, rootstocks of the first and second commercial varieties of different growth rates are planted. Winter, spring grafting or summer budding is carried out at a height of 5–15 cm. In the first and second fields of the nursery, in spring and autumn, root fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out. With any technology, seedlings are grown in a well-lit area, subject to all agrotechnical measures in combination with effective irrigation.

For the cultivation of a branched one-year-old, only rootstocks of the first commercial grade are used.

In addition to root dressing with nitrogen fertilizers, foliar dressing and processing of eyepieces at a height of 50-60 cm with growth regulators are carried out in the second field of the nursery, in combination with 2-3 times pinching of the apical (upper) leaves while maintaining the growth point.

The advantages of these technologies are the simplicity of growing planting material, low price, good growth and the survival rate of seedlings in the garden, minimum costs during transportation and landing.

Unfortunately, such planting material has more disadvantages. In the garden, seedlings require additional costs for the formation of the crown, they begin to bear fruit late. The first yield occurs in the 3-5th year, the recoupment of the garden in the 7th-8th year. The resulting sharp angles of branching contribute to a decrease in the formation of the generative sphere.

Biennial seedlings

The highest consumer demand is for standard two-year-old apple seedlings. They are grown from unbranched annuals. In the third field of the nursery, one-year-olds are cut (crowned) at a height of 90–100 cm from the soil level. Young shoots below a height of 50 cm and 2-3 upper competing shoots of the central conductor are removed (broken out). Every year in spring and autumn, root fertilization is carried out with nitrogen fertilizers.

Such seedlings grow well in the garden, they are sold at a relatively low price.

But this technology also has its drawbacks:

a long, three-year cycle of growing seedlings in a nursery, using additional agricultural techniques (pruning, forming a crown);
two-year-old seedlings have sharp branching angles;
generative buds are few or absent;
the first harvests are obtained in the 2nd-4th year, the recoupment of the garden comes only in the 6-7th year.

Knip baum

Relatively recently, a modern newest technology for growing seedlings of the knip baum type (knip bom) appeared, which has already been able to confidently take a high position in the market of planting material. At the first stage of obtaining such seedlings, a standard unbranched one-year-old is grown.

In the third field of the nursery, a one-year-old is cut at a height of about 40-50 cm, and a branched seedling is grown from the upper bud. When the central conductor reaches a length of 15–20 cm, it is treated with a growth regulator and pinched. It turns out a two-year-old with an annual crown. Root and foliar feeding is carried out several times.

Knip baum seedlings have a developed crown and formed generative buds, capable of producing single yields (up to 2-3 kg per tree) already in the year of planting, and up to 5-6 kg in the second year.

After 4–5 years of fruiting, orchards planted with such seedlings fully pay for themselves and become profitable, providing a garden yield of up to 200–350 c / ha. The maximum productivity occurs in the 5-6th year.

The price of seedlings grown using this technology differs markedly from those described earlier. This is due to more labor-consuming agricultural practices and a long, three-year growing cycle. Transporting and planting knip-booms is also somewhat more expensive. In the first years after planting in the garden, seedlings are stressed, growth processes are weakened.

Modified knip baum

In Russia, two new technologies for growing seedlings have been developed and proposed, which, in their main biometric characteristics, are somewhat superior to knip baum seedlings. This is a modified knip baum and a modified two-year-old.

The modified knip baum in the nursery is formed by crowning a standard one-year-old at a height of 70 cm from the soil level. A branched central conductor is grown from the upper bud, and the lateral branches formed below are partially removed, leaving 3–5 shoots.

Lateral shoots are deflected to a horizontal position using clothespins or twine. When the central conductor reaches a length of 15–20 cm, it is treated with a growth regulator or pinched. Root and foliar feeding is carried out.

A modified two year old is obtained from a branched one year old. In the third field of the nursery, the tree is crowned at a height of about 100 cm from the soil level. All branches longer than 20 cm are cut in half. The growing side shoots are deflected to a horizontal position using clothespins or twine. The central conductor, which has reached a length of 15–20 cm, is also treated with a growth regulator.

Root and foliar feeding is carried out several times. In terms of early maturity, yield and payback of the garden, such a technology for obtaining seedlings is similar to the knip baum technology, and even surpasses it.

Summing up

Thus, despite all the variety of technologies for growing apple tree seedlings that exist today, before laying a garden, it is necessary, first of all, to make a choice between planting inexpensive seedlings, but with a later date for the entry into fruiting, or planting more costly, but early-growing and quickly recouped.

Apple tree in the photo

The apple tree is the most common fruit tree in Russian gardens, which is partly why it is considered a kind of "model" for pruning. The principles, techniques and rules for pruning apples, pears and other pome crops, as well as stone fruit crops, are largely similar.

Proper planting and caring for a seedling is the first half of success. The second is the competent formation of the crown of a young apple tree. In most cases, sanitary pruning is carried out, its purpose is to remove damaged shoots and roots. If the root system is poorly developed, then the shoots must be shortened in order to equalize the aboveground and underground parts and increase the tree's chances of living in a new place. If planting or transplanting a tree is carried out in the fall, then pruning (with the exception of sanitary) must be postponed until next spring, so as not to reduce the winter hardiness of the plant. If the seedling has not completed the leaf fall, then he will have to help - remove the leaves manually or with the help of a pruner.

Before you properly prune young apple trees, keep in mind that its degree depends on the age, variety and condition of the seedling. Usually these are annual, biennial, three-year trees. An annual seedling should have a mature stem and a normally formed apical bud. There should be no leaves on it.

Large-sized animals take root very poorly, and if they survive at all, then they are delayed for a long time in development. The reasons for this are most often objective. Transportation, abrupt changes in conditions are the strongest stressful situations for a large plant. The problem is exacerbated by the location of nurseries, as they are usually located where trees grow faster, that is, in areas with a milder climate. As a result, your large apple tree may be at risk of winter damage.

With proper pruning, young apple trees often form sparse-tiered or tiered crowns - they are easy to maintain and correspond to the biological characteristics of the trees. Most often, a sparse-tiered and tiered crown is chosen for trees on strong and medium-sized rootstocks. The difference is that in the longline crown all branches extending from the trunk are skeletal and are included in the tiers, while the sparse-tiered crown is less "strict", and the tiers of branches alternate with semi-skeletal branches extending from the trunk.

Before forming the crown of a young apple tree correctly, read the sequence of actions suggested below, or, as fruit growers say, with the procedure for removing the crown.

With the normal development of the tree, every year, starting from the second year of the tree's life, a new layer of 3-5 branches is laid. If the length of the leader or the continuation shoot is insufficient, the laying of the next tier is postponed a year later.

Look at the photo of how to properly prune an apple tree at a young age:

The creation of several tiers when pruning and shaping apple trees is a somewhat cyclical process. To stimulate the branching and good development of future skeletal branches, the tip of the extension shoot is shortened and this operation is repeated when laying each next tier. The distance between the tiers depends on the type of rootstock and the characteristics of the variety (for trees on a dwarf rootstock it is less than that for vigorous ones) and is 50-70 cm, the upper tiers can be placed a little closer to each other (the lower limit is 40 cm). When pruning and forming an apple tree, the optimal distance between branches included in one tier is 20-30 cm. Branches in adjacent tiers should not be located one above the other. The central conductor or the continuation shoot should be 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the last tier (in practice, this means that this is exactly how much its top should be higher), and, if necessary, the branches and (or) the central conductor are shortened.

The decision on how to form the crown of an apple tree and how many tiers to make is taken by the gardener himself, guided by the convenience of harvesting and conducting agrotechnical measures.

The video of pruning a young apple tree shows how to form a seedling:

Usually, when pruning, 3-4 tiers are laid to form the crown of an apple tree, in this case the height of the tree on a vigorous stock is about 4 m, on a dwarf stock - 2-2.5 m.When the tree reaches the desired height, growth is limited - the central conductor is cut out on transfer.

An annual seedling looks like a thin twig with roots, less often with the first thin twigs, it depends on the variety and how the seedling was looked after in the nursery. The "fat" and vigorously branching one-year-old seedling is either overfed with fertilizers or grown in the southern regions.

Its winter hardiness in middle lane problematic enough. If necessary, perform sanitary pruning - both of the aerial part and of the root system. If a seedling is purchased with an open root system, it is especially important to equalize the underground and aboveground parts.

After planting, pruning of annual apple tree seedlings is carried out at a height of 80-100 cm in order to stimulate the growth of side branches - these are the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

All buds and branches (if any) from ground level to the first tier of skeletal branches are removed - this is the trunk zone. Too low a bole will make it difficult to till the soil, harvest and other operations, and too high a bole can suffer from sunburn.

If the seedling already has branches, then when pruning an annual apple tree, we outline those that will create the first tier - there should be 3-5 of them, directed in different directions. If there are no branches yet, then 5-8 buds are added to form the first tier (this amount is taken with a margin). One more kidney is left - it should be located above the tier and look to the side opposite to the bend in the budding zone, so that in the future the trunk is even. A continuation shoot will grow from this bud - it will replace the leader shoot, and so that the trunk is even, it is tied to a peg. You can leave a thorn from the leader shoot to be removed as a temporary support, and cut it off completely when the continuation shoot is fixed in an upright position.

In the process of how to properly trim annual apple tree, remove all the branches forming an acute angle with the trunk, the rest are shortened by 3-5 buds. This is done for better development and branching.

These photos show how to prune an apple tree at one year of age:

Pruning and shaping the crown of a two-year-old apple tree seedling (with video)

A two-year-old seedling begins to branch without fail. When pruning and forming the crown of a two-year-old apple tree, a strong shoot is grown from the uppermost bud, which will become a continuation of the leader shoot - it is better to tie it up so that the forming stem is even. If there are competing shoots at the top of the seedling, they are either removed while they are still small, or they are carefully folded back and fixed. Branches extending from the trunk at an angle less than 45 degrees are not a suitable candidate for the role of skeletal ones: they can be cut out, or you can try to bend them using spacers and stretch marks. While the branches are thin and flexible, they optimize the angle of their departure from the trunk. The older the tree, the more difficult it is to do, and in an adult tree it is simply impossible.

Any fixing of branches in the desired position must be mobile so that the crown does not break with the wind - but also strong enough to achieve the desired result. For the winter, the spacers and stretch marks are removed, and in the spring, if necessary, they are returned to their place.

When pruning seedlings of a two-year-old apple tree, the branches growing between the tiers can be shortened and bent at an obtuse angle, then they will give the first fruits faster. Subsequently, they are removed if a longline crown is selected.

The lateral branches of a young apple tree are left, even if they must be removed in the future. This approach contributes to the formation of a downward widening and therefore stable trunk. Excess branches when pruning a two-year-old apple tree are removed gradually. First, they are shortened, and after a year or two, when the tree has enough other branches and leaves, they are cut out completely.

Shoots, which will have to develop into skeletal branches, are shortened to stimulate branching. The degree depends on the condition of the branches and their planned length - the longest in the end should be the lower branches, so they are often cut more strongly than the upper ones. And although at first the crown will be, as it were, "upside down", further growth of the shoots will put everything in its place, since strong shoots will grow on a strongly cut branch. Small branches extending from skeletal branches are preserved - they are overgrown, on which crops will form in the future.

The video "Pruning a two-year-old apple tree" shows how this work is done:

How to properly prune three-year-old apple trees in spring

The three-year-old tree branches "in all directions", and new skeletal branches are laid on it. The branches of the first tier, laid last year, are covered with branches of the 2nd order. If necessary, remove or fold back branches. The second tier is laid at a distance of 50-70 cm from the first - so that the branches of the second tier are in the intervals between the branches of the first tier.

When pruning three-year-old apple trees, we observe the rule of subordination of branches - the higher the branch is located, the shorter it should be - only in this way the entire crown will be evenly illuminated. Branches of subsequent orders should be shorter and located lower (the conductor is 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the 1st order, the overgrowing branches are shorter than the branches of the 1st and 2nd orders). The crown of the tree should fit into an isosceles triangle with the base towards the ground; ideally, each skeletal branch also fits into an isosceles triangle with the base towards the trunk. The branches of one tier are usually leveled, that is, the branches of a three-year-old apple tree are pruned at the same height in spring. If the height of the branches is not the same, then the one whose growth point is higher grows more actively. This technique can be used to stimulate or restrict the growth of individual branches in a layer.

And what is the correct way to prune apple trees at the age of three, if the branching of the trees is active and good growth is observed? In this case, you can prune branches that were slated for removal in the previous season.

Pruning technique for a four- and five-year-old apple tree

The technique of pruning a four-year-old apple tree is carried out in a similar way: the third tier is laid, excess branches are removed.

And what is the correct way to prune apple trees that have reached the age of five in spring? A five-year-old tree is considered mature, at this age modern varieties usually begin to bear fruit, from that moment the tree can be called an adult. It has 3-4 beautiful and durable tiers. Often the tree has already reached the desired height. If necessary, its further upward growth can be limited. To do this, with the correct pruning of the apple trees, the central conductor is removed by pruning for translation - to a well-located branch. If the height of the tree is not enough, we lay one tier per year until the result is satisfactory, and only then we cut out the central conductor.

Remember that the specified sequence of actions for pruning young apple trees for novice gardeners is only a guideline, and not a hard set of rules. If for some reason the tree develops poorly, then it is not scary to postpone the laying of tiers or pruning a year or two later, and during this time to eliminate the shortcomings in agricultural technology.

Pruning and shaping the crown of young apple trees: videos and tips for beginners

The cup-shaped (or vase-shaped) crown shape is quite popular. Its removal is very simple - one tier of branches is laid at the desired height (usually the stem is low, no more than 50 cm, and in the tier there are 3-4 branches located symmetrically) and the central conductor is removed. In an apple tree, it is cut out as early as possible (in stone fruits, after 2-4 years). For a bowl to be beautiful, it will take a lot of space and possibly a garter of branches. Usually such a crown is chosen for trees on dwarf rootstocks. Its advantage is good sunlight. Further actions to form the crown of the apple tree are quite simple - timely removal of tops, which will often appear on skeletal branches, as well as excess branches, especially those directed towards the inside of the crown, sanitary pruning. It should be remembered about the rule of subordination when laying the branching of skeletal branches - the closer to the trunk, the longer the branches should be.

In English gardens, you can often find apple trees, which have only one layer of skeletal branches, and the central conductor is removed. Since trees are usually densely planted in a fruit garden, the skeletal branches will sooner or later begin to grow upward. It turns out not a bowl, but rather a "wine glass" on a high leg, and not always symmetrical, but not devoid of charm.

To improve the illumination of the adult crown, some of the branches are sometimes removed so that the rounded crown becomes lobed.

The spindle-shaped crown, or spindlebusch, is easy to breed and quite effective. Semi-skeletal branches are laid on the trunk, placing them in a spiral, and the height of the tree is usually limited to 3 m. With the help of stretch marks, the branches are given a close to horizontal position (in different modifications, the angle of branching may be less, and the length is different). This type of crown is only suitable for trees with dim rootstocks.

A slender spindle, or grusbek, is also a compact crown. It is hatched on a low stem, the central conductor is usually cut at a height of 2.5 m, and the entire crown is formed by short horizontal overgrown branches. Outwardly, this shape resembles a columnar apple tree and is suitable for trees on dwarf rootstocks.

In harsh conditions, for example, in Siberia, it is necessary by any means to increase the winter hardiness of fruit trees.

And how to prune dwarf apple trees? In such trees, the crown is formed in a bush-like shape (6-8 skeletal branches, the lower ones are located in one tier, the rest are single, all branches of the second order are shortened).

Since in severe winters damage to the trunk is the most dangerous, the most widespread is a low-stem bushy crown with a trunk height of no more than 30 cm. In this case, the snow cover becomes a natural shelter, a “warm blanket”.

The slate form is used in the most severe climatic conditions... It is characterized by the absence of a pronounced trunk and horizontally located skeletal branches, literally lying on the ground. This crown hibernates completely under the snow cover.

The video "Pruning Apple Trees for Beginners" clearly demonstrates how to shape the crown of trees:

Artificial types of crown formation in apple trees

Shaped gardening is the creation of artificial crown forms with high decorative qualities. They can be both flat (palmettes, cordons) and voluminous, more often symmetrical. Artificial crown shapes are associated with regular-style gardens (for example, in England, a rare brick wall is not decorated with fruit or decorative tree, formed in the form of palmette or cordon, and in France artificial forms often decorate the famous French decorative gardens with beds bordered with boxwood borders).

In addition to decorating the walls, artificial forms make it possible to achieve fruiting from more southern varieties (a brick wall accumulates heat and creates a favorable microclimate, concrete wallon the contrary, it is very cold and favors freezing of plants). Artificial forms usually bear fruit faster than traditional ones, and although the total number of fruits is not always large, all fruits are of excellent quality, since they receive a lot of sun. it perfect solution for a garden or a fragment of it in a regular style - or just a highlight of your site. Several identical flat forms (trees can be of different varieties) on a common frame - a variant of a compact green wall for zoning the garden space.

For molded gardening, only trees on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks are suitable and always with a chain type of fruiting. They will need regular pruning, most often several times per season, and a reliable frame for life, since for all their beauty, such forms do not withstand the elements well. Branches that protrude beyond the crown are shortened, cut or tied in the desired direction. To control the strength of growth and for better branching, annual growths are regularly pinched. The branch is usually removed in parts, since the number of leaves in artificial forms, especially at a young age, is small.

Artificial crown shapes can be voluminous, you can even create a covered alley - berso from an apple tree.

We can say that such types of apple tree formation in gardening are akin to the Japanese art of bonsai, but, unlike it, it seeks not to imitate nature, but, on the contrary, to subdue it, although the techniques are very similar, the main one is pinching. By the way, Japanese and Chinese masters create bonsai from fruit trees, this is considered a sign of high professionalism.

In palmette, all branches are located in the same plane, and their direction can be from horizontal to oblique and geniculate, the number of tiers also varies depending on the type. Palmettes are usually symmetrical crown variants with a well-defined center conductor. Each tier of branches requires a horizontal frame element, most often a thick wire or a strong rail.

Cordon is a rectilinear trunk (it can also be inclined), as if walking along a stretched rope (the name of the form comes from the French corde - rope), covered with a small number of short overgrowing branches. Cordons are compact, so a whole collection can be accommodated in a relatively small area. Outwardly, the cordons are somewhat reminiscent of columnar apple trees, but the former have a compact habit due to regular pruning, the latter due to their biological characteristics.

It is not always possible to achieve perfect symmetry of an artificial shape by trimming. Vaccination comes to the rescue - if there is no bud or shoot in the right place, then it can be grown artificially.

For stone fruit crops, a strict plane of the crown is undesirable, therefore, skeletal branches are oriented, as a rule, at an angle of 15-20 degrees to the row line.

Correct pruning of an adult apple tree in spring

Finally, your tree is already mature and has begun to bear fruit. At this stage, it is especially important to extend its "full life" and increase productivity. Ideally, the maintenance or regulatory pruning period for mature apple trees lasts for decades.

This type of pruning keeps the crown in the right size, fights against thickening, regulates the light and air regime, prevents the branches from exposing, especially in the central part, and thereby increases the laying of fruit formations.

It is important to carry out maintenance pruning of mature apple trees regularly in spring. They paused - and the growth of the tree gets out of control, you have to cut a lot and hard, after which the struggle begins - you cut, and the tree stubbornly seeks to return the lost volume, for example, it forms many tops. As a result, both you and the tree expend a lot of energy.

Normalizing flowers and ovaries also refers to maintenance pruning. Plants always lay flowers “in reserve”, in some years only every tenth flower becomes a fruit. Therefore, the ovary trees are shed - first of all, unfertilized and damaged ones. If the dimensions of the tree allow and if you have enough patience, you can normalize the ovaries - remove some of them. As a result, there will be fewer fruits, but they will be larger and of better quality, and the tree will save its energy. The normalization of flowers is carried out during full blooming (although many gardeners are very sorry to ruin the apple blossom with their own hands), the normalization of the ovaries - as early as possible, immediately after flowering. You can completely remove flowers and ovaries on parts of the inflorescences, you can leave the best and most developed in each inflorescence. In the apple tree, this is the central flower in the inflorescence.

When the harvest is large, the branches may not withstand the load and break, especially old varieties with periodic fruiting are often affected.

The best treatment is prevention, so props are placed in advance, while the fruits are still small. After harvest, the props are removed.

Watch a video on how to prune an apple tree as an adult:

Tips for proper anti-aging pruning of an old apple tree (with photo and video)

If a young tree formed correctly, then for many years he will only need sanitary and supporting pruning - the removal of unnecessary branches and limiting the size of the crown. Nevertheless, sooner or later the moment comes when the tree starts to age.

The signal for rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees is a reduction in the length of annual growth. For trees on vigorous rootstocks, the critical value is 15 cm. If the tree is mature and bears fruit on a regular basis, it spends a huge amount of energy on fruiting, and growth is "financed on a leftover basis," so the length of annual growth decreases. In a neglected case, young fruit formations no longer arise, and the old ones have exhausted their resources - you will be left without fruit, and the oppressed and weakened tree may die. The gardener's job is to help the tree maintain an optimal balance between growth and fruiting.

Many trees are trying to "regain lost youth" on their own with the help of tops. If the tops are located well, you can form new branches from them, and gradually remove the old ones.

However, in most cases, the tree needs serious help. As usual, first they carry out sanitary pruning of old apple trees, then rejuvenating ones. For this, the branches are shortened to the site where the growth length was full, and the bare and unproductive ones are also cut out. With a high probability, the tree will react to such an intervention with the rapid growth of tops, especially near the cuts - dormant buds will wake up. This is what they are trying to achieve - now it is possible to form new, young and strong branches from the strongest and most well-located tops. The remaining tops are removed with proper pruning of old apple trees, and the sooner the better. In case of doubt, you can pinch the growing top and decide its future fate during spring pruning next year.

As you can see in the photo of pruning old apple trees, many large branches are removed during this work:

Therefore, it makes sense to stretch this rejuvenation for 2-3 seasons. You should not save on watering and feeding, in addition, you need to carefully and regularly examine young growths - a tidbit for various sucking and leaf-eating pests.

Sick trees with severe damage to the trunk and skeletal branches do not rejuvenate.

Another tip for pruning old apple trees is to combine anti-aging crown shaping with anti-aging root pruning. To do this, a trench 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide is dug along the periphery of the crown and filled with fertile soil and organic fertilizersas well as watered regularly. As a result, many young, actively working roots are formed in this zone.

The task of restorative pruning is to restore the ability to bear fruit. For this, new fruit-bearing branches are raised for several years, mainly by pruning for transfer to horizontal branches, and the old ones are then removed.

Watch the video "Pruning Old Apple Trees" to get a better understanding of how to care for these trees:

How to prune an old apple tree correctly

What to do if, along with the plot, you got an old tree that for a long time or never saw a pruner or a hacksaw? How to properly prune an old apple tree to prolong its life?

You can leave everything as it is. In nature, trees, without any pruning, live to old years. Still, pruning is a way to improve the health and longevity of the tree, as well as a way to give it a presentable look. In neglected gardens, many fruit trees look like a "nest" of closely spaced branches on a high trunk. Their crown is raised high so that light penetrates into the trunk circles, and something else could be grown under the apple tree. Especially often this picture can be seen in small areas.

Before you prune the old apple tree, you need to give the abandoned tree a decent look, and for this you must first remove all the "dangerous" branches. After that, they start sanitary pruning. Slowly, gradually cut off all sick and dead. Focus on the middle of the crown - there are usually many dry branches hiding there. Typically, in neglected old trees, sanitary pruning is large-scale, and upon completion, the crown changes dramatically.

In the next step, to prune the old apple tree, you need to remove the extra branches. There is no need to rush here. Better to pause, take your mind off the tree, and do other things. Perhaps even postponing everything until next season, this has its advantages. Sometimes it is important not to overdo it - perhaps an exception should be made to the rules for some specific branches - in order to subsequently strengthen the weak branch, direct the further growth of the branch in the right direction by pruning for translation, leave the spinning top to grow a fruiting branch from it. It is quite possible that pruning will have to be extended over two or three seasons (no more than a quarter of the branches are removed in one year). The decision will have to be made for each specific slice.

Therefore, it is better to clean off lichens from the trunk and skeletal branches. The easiest way to do this is after rain - they are easily scraped off with a thick mitten or a blunt knife. In addition, when the old bark is removed before the autumn whitewashing, lichens are automatically disposed of. In severe cases, spraying with a 10% solution of ferrous sulfate can be applied - this is a very high concentration that causes chemical burns. Therefore, such processing is carried out only when the tree is at rest, necessarily on a calm day, not forgetting about all the safety measures that are necessary when working with toxic substances.

The green or brick-colored bloom usually found on the north side of large branches or stems is unicellular algae. They are not dangerous and only indicate high humidity. Better ventilation and crown thinning helps to reduce algae. Again, removing the old bark before whitewashing solves this problem as well.

Different varieties of apple trees have their own pruning characteristics.

Varieties with weak branching and low bud awakening (Cinnamon striped, etc.). The branches are "bald", with weak branching, fruits are formed only in their upper part.

Pay attention to the photo - pruning of apple trees of such varieties is performed medium or strong in order to enhance branching and reduce the number of dangerous forks with sharp corners:

These varieties require more radical anti-aging pruning.

Antonovka ordinary in the photo
Borovinka in the photo

Varieties with low to moderate branching and good bud awakening(Antonovka ordinary, Borovinka and etc.). The periodicity of fruiting on annelids is characteristic. Stimulates the formation of overgrowing branches on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches.

Pepin saffron in the photo
Melba in the photo

Varieties bearing fruit on fruit twigs (Pepin saffron, Melba and etc.). Shorten the growth to enhance branching and the formation of more overgrowing branches.

Renet Simirenko in the photo
Autumn striped in the photo

Varieties with high shoot-forming ability (Renet Simirenko, Autumn striped and etc.). Regular thinning of the crown is necessary.

Apple trees on dwarf rootstocks generally require minimal formative pruning, especially if the varieties themselves have moderate branching. In most cases, apple trees on dwarf rootstocks respond well to anti-aging pruning.

This video shows pruning of apple trees of different varieties:

Correct pruning of a columnar apple tree (with video)

Recently fashionable columnar apple trees require correct pruning, not the same as for other species. Often, pruning of columnar apple trees is not needed at all, because usually these are undersized varieties. The peculiarity of columnar apple trees is very short growth and the presence of annelids on all branches, including skeletal branches (if any), and even on the trunk!

To direct all the forces of the tree to fruiting, in the middle of summer, long growths of the current year are pinched. If this is not done, the apple trees lose their strict columnar appearance, overgrow with long skeletal branches and something looks like a tree on a dwarf rootstock, only with a rarer crown. If the apical bud is damaged or removed, several strong shoots grow: if there is enough space, you can leave those that are well located. This option has the right to exist. But if the "column" was acquired for a different purpose, and there is not enough space, then you will have to choose one escape and greatly shorten the rest.

Often gardeners, acquiring a columnar apple tree, dream of a "stick" strewn with large bulk apples. Alas, the small size of the fruits is a varietal feature, pruning and feeding will not make the fruits larger. On the other hand, the breeders took care of compensation - apples are easy to pick, they have a rich aroma and dessert taste.

This video shows pruning columnar apple trees on personal plot:

IN last years the apple tree became popular decorative culture, on sale you can find many varieties, usually small-fruited, with a different general appearance of the tree (or) the color of flowers and leaves. Pruning decorative apple trees will require different, its nature depends on the shape of the crown. However, in any grafted forms, shoots that appear below the grafting site are removed decisively and immediately.

Apple tree of Nedzvetsky in the photo
Apple tree of Nedzvetsky with bright crimson flowers in the photo

Apple tree of Nedzvetsky attracts not only with purple leaves of varying severity, but also with bright crimson flowers. The fruits of this species are quite large, and they differ from the apple trees traditionally grown in gardens, mainly in an unusual, dark, color. The formation of an apple tree of this species is exactly the same as that of the usual home apple tree. They do the same with large-sized decorative varieties that have a classic crown shape.

The spherical shape of the Nedzvetsky apple tree in the photo

Spherical shapes grafted onto a tall stem require minimal pruning. Remove all rootstock shoots, sanitize pruning if necessary and maintain proper crown shape.

The popular weeping apple trees will require a different approach. They are also grafted apple trees on a tall stem. To make the "umbrella" thick and beautiful, regular pruning with the beautiful name "candelabra" is required. Look closely - the weeping branches form an upward bend at the very top. There we cut it to the kidney pointing up. At least two or three should remain below this kidney. Thus, from the remaining buds, strong weeping shoots will grow, and the "umbrella" will be strong and durable. In order not to deprive yourself of joy, you should not “fool” the tree every year. If you want to admire decorative flowers and the fruits of your apple trees, you will have to trim the crown piece by piece.

Theoretically, an apple tree can also be cut hedge, but why? Indeed, in this case, you will have to forget about flowers and fruits.

If the crown is not formed in a timely manner, the apple trees begin to be overloaded with the number of fruits, their quality deteriorates, the frequency of fruiting is formed, and the winter hardiness of trees decreases. The crown of the apple tree must have a shape that will provide good harvests with high quality fruit. In other words, if you do not cut fruit trees, then their crown will grow much faster, fruiting will begin earlier, and yields will grow faster. But after a few years, the condition of the trees will begin to deteriorate significantly.

Pruning technique

Pruning over the bud is carried out with a sharp secateurs, without cutting too much above the bud (without damaging it), but also without leaving hemp;

Crown-forming buds are chosen, that is, the bud at the end of the shoot, after trimming it, should be directed in the desired direction. So, the bud at the end of the lateral shoot should not be directed upward and into the crown;

Thinning branches up to 2-3 cm thick is carried out with a pruner, cutting them into a ring (this is a thickened place at the base of the branch);

Branches thicker than 2-3 cm are removed with a garden saw. In this case, first you should make a gash under it, otherwise it may break off under its weight and damage the central trunk or the supporting skeletal branch.

When thinning, apple tree branches are removed that go inside the crown, unsuccessfully located and intersecting (thickening), diseased and broken apple tree branches going into the crown, unsuccessfully located and intersecting (thickening), diseased and broken, wen grown on boles and in the forks of branches.

It is preferable to remove branches directed upward from the supporting skeletal branches (to give them a more horizontal direction).

Pruning apple trees after planting

Apple trees planted both in autumn and spring are pruned in the spring (before the buds swell) after planting and in the same way.

Pruning annual apple tree seedlings

Annual apple tree seedlings are usually still without side branches and are cut at a height of 80-100 cm from the soil level.

If annual seedlings with branches, then remove all shoots at a height of 40-70 cm above the ground. From those growing above, those shoots are removed that form an acute angle with the trunk (such branches often break off under the weight of the fruit). If these shoots need to be left, then they should be pulled to the side with spacers (to the horizontal position). An apple tree with branches located almost horizontally enters fruiting earlier.

Shoots that form a wide angle of discharge are cut off, leaving 3-5 buds on them. In this case, those buds are selected for trimming so that after trimming the final bud is directed down and away from the conductor.

It is also necessary to shorten the conductor (main trunk) so that it is 15-20 cm higher from the ends of the lateral shoots.

Pruning two-year-old apple tree seedlings

Two-year-old seedlings with a trunk and several side shoots are cut in the same way as annual ones with side shoots.

Leave 3-6 strongest shoots with wide angles of discharge, evenly spaced in the crown, the rest are removed. The left shoots are shortened: the lower ones are made up to 30 cm long, the higher ones are somewhat shorter, so that the lower tier is not higher than the next one. The guide is trimmed so that it is about 15-20 cm above the side shoots. If a competing shoot grows in parallel with the conductor, it is cut out or pulled to the horizontal (made lateral).

Formation of the crown of young apple trees

In the first years of apple tree growth, the goal of pruning it is to form an evenly leafy, well-lit and easy-care crown of the apple tree.

During this period, it is necessary to cut apple tree branches into the ring, going inside the crown, unsuccessfully located and crossing (thickening), sick and broken.

During the first 3-5 years, pruning should be minimal, otherwise the entry of apple trees into fruiting will be delayed.

Pruning apple trees in the third year after planting

In the third year after planting, before the start of the growing season, competitors of the growths of the continuation of the skeletal branches and the central conductor are completely removed. The growth of the central conductor is also shortened. It should be 15-25 cm above the tops of the lateral skeletal branches.

All other shoots are shortened to a length of 15-25 cm. This first serves to thicken the trunk, and then they turn into fruit branches. In places of thickening, part of such increments (especially competing ones, directed upward and inward of the crown or with sharp angles of discharge) are cut into a ring. Fruit formations such as ringlets, spears, spurs, fruit twigs are not touched.

Formation of apple trees in the fourth year after planting

In the fourth year, pruning is carried out as in the third year. They continue to shape the crown so that by autumn there are 5 skeletal branches. The growth of the extension of the conductor is shortened by 1/4 - 1/3 (so that the remaining one-year part is 50-60 cm long).

Thinning, remove long (more than 70-80 cm) annual growths growing upward from the main branches and in the forks of the base of branches, and necessarily competitors of the conductors of skeletal branches (growing upward).

In the figure, the cut branches are shown with a dashed line.

Formation of apple trees from the fifth year after planting

From the fifth year, the apple tree should have a properly formed crown, and the tree is ready to bear fruit. Now every year they only thin out the crown, remove the competing growths of last year, diseased and damaged branches. The apple tree bears fruit on the branches that were planted last year, so they are pruned carefully.

For the convenience of caring for the apple tree, dwarf varieties are chosen. Or, respectively, form an apple tree, removing the central vertically growing conductor.

Video
How to properly prune an apple tree.

Rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees

During the period of fruiting and aging of the apple tree, annual growths weaken, their length becomes no more than 15 cm, and rejuvenating pruning is required. It starts with strong thinning crowns: cut out the crowns that go inward, thickening, criss-crossing branches. It is better to remove 1-2 large thickening branches than a significant number of small branches. To reduce the crown and improve its illumination, the leader is cut out with branches at a height of 3-3.5 m. Branches growing upward are cut out at the lateral branches.

Read the book for more information on pruning.