Copulation and budding what is it? Spring copulation or grafting by cutting Simple and improved copulation

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Preparatory work before copulation

Good day! It's time to tell you what happened and what didn't)))) Have you tried to vaccinate in spring and summer? In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ”

Garden var (or even just Step 6: protecting the vaccine

The technology of the first two steps is exactly the same as for simple copulation. Step 3: connecting the scion and rootstockIt is really simple in technology. Its essence lies in the fact that cuts of the same size are made on the rootstock and scion, and these cuts are pressed tightly against each other so that they grow together at the point of contact. In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ” ... The characteristic is completely accurate, because the whole essence of the method comes down to a simpleWe continue to familiarize ourselves with various methods of grafting trees and shrubs. The first part was devoted to budding - inoculation with a single kidney. Today we are moving on to another type of grafting - a graft. And the first way we will get to know is

Cleft grafting

• Maximally sharpened grafting knife;
• The apple tree on your site has been growing for many years, and you still have not seen the harvest? Or is the apple flavor and size poor? Such situations occur quite often, and you can fix them with your own hands by grafting branches from another apple tree of the variety that you like best.
• You can graft all plants and even a watermelon on a pumpkin (on a green stem) for grafting, a piece of a blade will go and wrap any with foil and make a knot.
• Plasticine
• The upper cut of the cutting is covered with garden varnish or plasticine. Put a clean plastic bag on the fixed area, tying it below the inoculation. Comparing the methods of simple and improved copulation, one involuntarily comes to the conclusion that two simple cuts greatly facilitate the procedure. In addition, these flat tongues greatly increase the area of \u200b\u200bcontact between the scion and rootstock. This means that there are more chances for luck. In the next video - a master class on grafting on an apple tree using the improved copulation method. It is conducted by Lyudmila Mikhailovna Sulimenko (Nizhny Novgorod State University named after N.I. Lobachevsky)

Step 1: preparing the stock

Attach the scion to the stock with a cut so that a single shoot is obtained. If the cuts are made correctly, then their surfaces

Even a cursory glance at the diagram is enough to understand the technology of simple copulation. But there are subtleties even in the simplest procedures. Let's focus on them step by step.

Ways of grafting apple cuttings

The connection of the stock and the cutting

Copulation.... Used for branches of different diameters. Split the stock either crosswise or across, and insert a couple of cuttings into it, on the bottom of which a long oblique cut is made. Since with this method only one part of the scion comes into contact with the cambium on the rootstock, it is necessary to carry out such an inoculation of the apple tree with special attention.

Plastic wrap for strapping;

So you don't have to plant new trees and wait for fruit for several more years. In addition, grafting apple trees will allow you to expand the range of varieties on your site and save money that would have to be spent on buying seedlings.A curious idea to plant a watermelon on a pumpkin, and what did you get? Please share your experience. Very interesting.

​)​ Well, we met two more ways of vaccination. fruit trees... You can start developing practical skills. And you need to start with the preparation of tools and materials.

Wipe the stock with a clean damp cloth and make an oblique, even cut at an acute angle. In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ”

Almost completely coincideStep 1: preparing the stock ... This simplicity is a big plus. For even a novice gardener is quite capable of mastering the technique of such grafting and joining in the cultivation of new varieties in his garden. In addition, with the help of copulation from a young wild game, you can quickly get a fruit tree of the desired variety. And the third great advantage of copulation is the high survival rate of vaccinations.

This is the most popular and convenient option forCleft grafting

Garden var or oil paint based on drying oil.

Inoculation of new branches can be compared to a surgical operation - it requires no less care and accuracy. Novice gardeners cannot do without detailed recommendations, otherwise mistakes will hardly be avoided. If you are planning to start such a responsible process as grafting apple trees for the first time, the video attached to this article will be of invaluable help.

Thank you very much for the information! Very interesting and clear. Let's learn!

Packages

orchardo.ru

An easy way to graft trees and shrubs is to copulate

What we need to get vaccinated: Step 2: preparing the scion
, And the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock will be tightly pressed against each other. And this is one of the most important conditions for proper fusion.On the rootstock (trunk or branch), you need to choose a smooth, defect-free bark (and it would be nice even without buds). Rootstock Copulation is carried out

Specificity of copulation

Thin rootstocks Bark graftingThe graft should be prepared from the very beginning of winter, after the first frost, when the branches are dormant, but it is also possible at the beginning of spring, until the buds are swollen. Pick upward-growing annual branches from healthy, productive apple trees. The length of the twig should be about 30-35cm. Cut the lower edge of the cutting obliquely at an acute angle (the length of the cut is three times the diameter of the branch), and the upper edge - "to the bud". You can store branches during the winter in the basement by placing the lower part of the scion in wet sawdust or sand. A few small cuttings can be kept in the refrigerator, wrapped in a wet cloth.

Advantages of the method

Video about improved copulation I agree with everyone. The information is interesting, understandable, thank you very much. I'm going to try it this season.Polyethylene new SpicyOn the handle, make the same cut along the length as on the rootstock. In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ” Step 4: fixing the vaccination siteWipe clean with a damp spring cloth. And thin rootstocks are what we most often deal with: young wilds that we want to turn into varietal trees; berry and ornamental shrubs; grapes and young branches of the crown of fruit trees, the grade of which we want to improve. ... Branches of medium and large diameter can be grafted during the period of sap flow using the "bark" method. Gently cut the apple branch at the site marked for grafting, leaving a slightly bevelled stump. Smoothly clean the hemp cut with a sharp knife. On a scion with two or three buds, make an oblique cut in the lower part (opposite the lower bud), stepping back from the base by 5 cm. Cut the bark at the end of the stock and move it with a knife, inserting the scion there with an oblique cut to the stock. If the branch is more than five centimeters in diameter, you can graft two cuttings on both sides. This method is best suited for novice gardeners, because it does not require jewelry work, and the survival rate of branches is higher. Photo copulationUsually the grafting of apple trees in the spring is carried out by the Tanyusha method, did you manage to cope with the vaccination this season? Tell me ?! I didn't know it was possible. Thanks, I would like to try planting cherries. Elena, have you tried planting your own cherry? Or left for next spring? Tatyana, yes, I tried to graft an apple tree in the spring, there was first a training session on a wild apple tree, and then two attempts at a "real" grafting. So on a wild apple tree, the stalk took root, and the rest did not. But the same was the training, and the cutting from another variety, but the desired variety failed. But I am not discouraged, I will try next season. Thank you for attention! Time moves, and the institutes do not notice the emergence of new materials. I suggest replacing the thick plastic wrap with 5-7 micron polyethylene phthalate wrap (sold in every hardware store under the code name - cling film). The end of the strapping can no longer be tied, but glued with garden pitch, which is due to the thickness of the film. You can no longer cover the upper end of the cutting with pitch, but wrap it blindly with the same film from the bottom up and glue the film at the end of the cutting. The opening stalk unwinds the film. Gluing the sharp end of the cutting with the stock with a piece of scotch tape allows you to strengthen the graft in the butt, and also allows you to reduce the length of the cut and use each kidney (valuable kidney). This will require fewer cuttings. Last edited Oct 3, 2015 1:40 pm Net A knifeStep 3:

Simple copulation

A narrow strip of plastic wrap (5-10 mm) or a special elastic tape should be tightly wrapped around the graft site, tightly pressing the rootstock and scion sections together. Each turn of the tape is made

How it's done

... This is not a trifle - let's remember how easy it is to infect an open wound, and we will just make such a wound. With a sharp (copulating) knife make

• , Before budding on the stock. The operation is started as soon as the temperature allows to work outdoors. Stone fruits are grafted first. It is known that grafting of cherries and cherries gives the best results if done before the start of sap flow. Best time for this -

At the same time, the advantage and complexity of copulation is that it is used only in cases where both participants in the operation - the stock and the scion - Video about simple and improved copulationBefore starting the vaccination, wash your hands well with laundry soap, the instrument must also be clean. Immediately in the process, try not to touch the scion and stock unnecessarily, so as not to stain the sections. CopulationsGrafting fruit trees: one way. You can get the full course "Grafting Fruit Trees" here: http://privivka.sadby.org

• Cloth

... It is advisable to purchase a special copulation (budding). In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ” ​ ​ With an overlap

• Oblique straight cut at an acute angle

Late March-early April The same diameter.

• Puzzling over how to plant an apple tree so that the twig takes root well? There are several ways of grafting cuttings, of which the following are most commonly used in practical gardening:

(Grafting by cutting), method All lessons are free:For cleaning shoots and hands SadovyCutting reeds

• ... Here is the "thin spot" of the vaccine: during wrapping

(About 20-25 °). This is necessary so that the area of \u200b\u200bcontact between the scion and the rootstock is large enough, therefore the cut length should be approximately 3-5 times larger than the rootstock diameter itself - 2.5-4 cm (depending on the thickness of the rootstock). The cut must be done in one movement (towards yourself). Here you cannot do without training, since it is within the power of any summer resident.

Improved copulation

... Pome breeds are grafted

How it's done

The stock can be a 1-2-year-old wild or a branch of a fruit tree of the same age with a diameter of less than 1.5 cm. The graft should be selected accordingly. In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ”

• ... In the case when it is not possible to carry out the grafting for the bark, the stalk is inserted into the side cut. Make an oblique cut through the bark and wood in the rootstock, and two longitudinal cuts in the scion, joining together. Carefully insert the graft into the gap on the apple tree branch, making sure both parts and the cambium match. When the grafted stalk begins to grow, the top of the rootstock will need to be cut with a knife.

Simple copulation

• Budding

Http://kurs.sadby.org/sivak/main/bespl

• BarPruning shears Mentally divide the rootstock cut into 3 equal parts and, stepping back one third from the upper part, make a longitudinal incision with a knife along the axis of the shoot to a depth of about 10-12 mm. Do the same on the scion cut.

It is important not to displace the cambium contact strips

• Step 2: preparing the scion

From early April to mid-June

• This method got its name from Latin

The vaccination site is tightly tied with plastic wrap to protect it from pests getting inside and from drying out. On top of the strapping, as well as in the cavity between the scion and the stock, a garden pitch is applied, which protects the grafting site from moisture.

• ... Suitable when the rootstock and scion diameters are the same. Usually, using copulation, 1-2-year-old branches are grafted, making identical cuts along the oblique so that they completely coincide. It is necessary to attach the sections within a minute so that the surface does not have time to oxidize and dry, then the accretion will occur worse.

(Kidney) used in summer. In modern fruit growing, copulation is used much more often and serves for different purposes: when growing dwarf apple trees, when repairing damaged trees, in order to replace a low-value variety with a more productive one, or to create a multi-variety apple tree. All video courses:

Vaccination tools and supplies

For sharpening a knife

• Polyethylene or special Step 4: connecting the scion and rootstock... The question often arises: whether to wrap the kidney, which is located just in the area of \u200b\u200bthe winding? Gardeners do both. For me, the decisive fact was that in the old Soviet publications on gardening it is advised to leave the kidney open))

• On the handle, make the same cut along the length as on the rootstock. To do this, you first need to select those 2-3-4 buds on the handle that will "go for inoculation." They start the cut 1 cm below the first lower bud and make it at the same angle as on the rootstock ... Then, above the third bud (or the second or fourth according to your idea), at a distance of about 2 mm, the cutting follows. The key to successful copulation is to carry out the operation when the stock "wakes up", and the scion (varietal cutting) is still in a dormant state. This can be achieved if the cuttings were harvested in late autumn or late winter-early spring, when the shoots were in a state of complete dormancy and were in the cold until the moment of grafting. Gardeners successfully use

• Copulo Do not use electrical tape for strapping, because it prevents the rootstock and scion from growing together and also interferes with the development of callus. It is also not recommended to wear a plastic bag on the grafted stalk, otherwise, under the influence of the greenhouse effect, the buds will bloom earlier than necessary, and the scion itself will die. The harness is slightly loosened three weeks after the apple tree grafting, when the buds begin to swell.

To graft trees you will need:

• Http://kurs.sadby.org/sivak/main/uroki And today you can practice making cuts and tongues on the material that you probably have right outside the gate of your house. Good luck to everyone in your endeavors. You will succeed! And in the next article we will talk about the rest of the methods of grafting by cuttings.
• Bring the scion to the stock with the tongue by the tongue so that they tightly hold each other with the tongue lock. If the diameters of the stock and the cutting do not coincide slightly, the tongues make it possible to move the scion so that at least one side of the cambial layer coincides with the stock. Step 5: Grafting protection
• Trim at 45 ° per kidney Two types of copulation, Which translates as
• Improved copulation

The stalk itself (scion), which will be grafted into the apple tree;

Irina, Bender

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Tatiana, Bender

The article is clear, easy to understand, all the steps of copulation are spelled out, I read it with pleasure, Tatiana. Tell me, can all plants be grafted by copulation, or are there restrictions?

Sergey Sokolov, Moscow

... Gardeners advise cutting the garbage bags into 1 cm strips; you can also use a pharmacy film for compresses

Irina, Bender

Step 5: fixing the vaccination site

Dezhits Tatiana, Petrozavodsk

The upper cut of the cutting must be covered with garden varnish so that the upper bud does not dry out. Some gardeners put a clean plastic or paper bag or a special cap on the graft site for the first time to reduce evaporation. There is one nuance that must be borne in mind: the upper cut of the cutting will be wet, so the layer of garden varnish may simply slide off (move) while you carry out the manipulations. This little thing can play a fatal role: the upper, and sometimes even the next kidney after it, may not germinate due to drying out. Therefore, it is better to play it safe and check again. Now it remains to wait for the result. If everything is done correctly, the buds should start to grow in 2 weeks. As you can see, the simple copulation method is really simple. But he has one major drawback: it is very inconvenient to hold the stalk on the stock both before and during tying, so that the sections do not move. This is probably why there was a need for improved copulation.

Tatiana, Bender

(The figure shows that the cut goes towards the kidney and slightly above it). If you already carry out the cutting procedure confidently, it is more convenient to first select 3 well-developed buds on the handle, cut them above the upper bud, and make a working cut after that.

We continue to familiarize ourselves with various methods of grafting trees and shrubs. The first part was devoted to the single kidney vaccination. Today we are moving on to another type of grafting - a graft. And the first way we will get to know is copulation.

This is the most popular and convenient option for thin rootstocks... And thin rootstocks are what we most often deal with: young wilds that we want to turn into varietal trees; berry and ornamental shrubs; grapes and young branches of fruit tree crowns, the grade of which we want to improve.

Specificity of copulation

At the same time, the advantage and complexity of copulation is that it is used only in cases where both participants in the operation - the stock and the scion - the same diameter. The stock can be a 1-2-year-old wild or a branch of a fruit tree of the same age with a diameter of less than 1.5 cm. The graft must be selected accordingly.

Advantages of the method

This method got its name from Latin copulo, which translates as “ connect» ... The characteristic is completely accurate, because the whole essence of the method comes down to a simple the connection of the stock and the cutting.

This simplicity is a big plus. For even a novice gardener is quite capable of mastering the technique of such grafting and getting involved in the cultivation of new varieties in his garden. In addition, with the help of copulation from a young wild game, you can quickly get a fruit tree of the desired variety. And the third great advantage of copulation is the high survival rate of vaccinations.

Copulation is carried out in the spring, before budding on the stock. The operation is started as soon as the temperature allows to work outdoors. Stone fruits are grafted first. It is known that grafting of cherries and cherries gives the best results if done before the start of sap flow. The best time for this is late March - early April... Pome breeds are grafted from early April to mid-June.

The key to successful copulation is to carry out the operation during the period when the stock "wakes up" and the scion (varietal cutting) is still dormant. This can be achieved if they were harvested in late autumn or late winter. - early spring, when the shoots were in a state of complete dormancy, and were in the cold until the moment of inoculation.

Gardeners successfully use two types of copulation - simple and improved.

Simple copulation

It is really simple in technology. Its essence lies in the fact that sections of the same size are made on the rootstock and the scion, and these sections are pressed tightly against each other so that they grow together at the point of contact.

How it's done

Even a cursory glance at the diagram is enough to understand the technology of simple copulation. But there are subtleties even in the most uncomplicated procedures. Let's focus on them step by step.

• Step 1: preparing the stock

On the rootstock (trunk or branch), you need to choose a place that is smooth, without bark defects (and it would be nice even without buds). Rootstock wipe with a clean damp cloth... This is not a trifle - let's remember how easy it is to infect an open wound, and we will just make such a wound.

With a sharp (copulating) knife make oblique straight cut at an acute angle (about 20-25 °). This is necessary so that the area of \u200b\u200bcontact between the scion and the rootstock is large enough, therefore the cut length should be approximately 3-5 times larger than the rootstock diameter itself - 2.5-4 cm (depending on the thickness of the rootstock). The cut must be done in one movement (towards yourself). Here you cannot do without training, since it is within the power of any summer resident.

• Step 2: preparing the scion

On the handle, make the same cut along the length as on the rootstock. To do this, you first need to select those 2-3-4 buds on the handle that will "go for inoculation." They start the cut 1 cm below the first lower bud and make it at the same angle as on the rootstock ...

Then above the third bud (or the second or fourth according to your idea), at a distance of about 2 mm, the stalk follows trim at 45 ° per kidney (the figure shows that the cut goes towards the kidney and slightly above it).

If you already carry out the cutting procedure confidently, it is more convenient to first select 3 well-developed buds on the handle, cut over the upper bud, and make a working cut after that.

• Step 3: connecting the scion and rootstock

Attach the scion to the stock with a cut so that a single shoot is obtained. If the cuts are made correctly, then their surfaces almost completely coincide, and the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock will be tightly pressed against each other. And this is one of the most important conditions for proper fusion.

• Step 4: fixing the vaccination site

A narrow strip of plastic wrap (5-10 mm) or a special elastic tape should be tightly wrapped around the graft site, tightly pressing the rootstock and scion sections together. Each turn of the tape is made with an overlap.

Here is the "thin spot" of the vaccine: during wrapping it is important not to displace the cambium contact strips... The question often arises: whether to wrap the kidney, which is located just in the area of \u200b\u200bthe winding? Gardeners do both. For me, the decisive fact was that in the old Soviet publications on gardening, the kidney was recommended to be left open))

• Step 5: protecting the vaccine

The upper cut of the cutting must be covered with garden varnish so that the upper bud does not dry out. Some gardeners put a clean plastic or paper bag or a special cap on the graft site for the first time to reduce evaporation.

There is one nuance that must be borne in mind: the upper cut of the cutting will be wet, so the layer of garden varnish may simply slide off (move) while you carry out the manipulations. This little thing can play a fatal role: the upper, and sometimes even the next kidney, may not germinate due to drying out. Therefore, it is better to play it safe and check again.

Now it remains to wait for the result. If everything is done correctly, the buds should start to grow in 2 weeks.

As you can see, the simple copulation method is really simple. But he has one major drawback: it is very inconvenient to hold the cutting on the rootstock both before and during tying, so that the sections do not move.

This is probably why there was a need for improved copulation.

Improved copulation

This method differs from simple copulation in that splits-tongues are made on oblique cuts of the scion and stock, which form a kind of lock that allows the scion to hold tightly in the stock.

How it's done

The technology of the first two steps is exactly the same as for simple copulation.

• Step 1: preparing the stock

Wipe the stock with a clean damp cloth and make an oblique, even cut at an acute angle.

• Step 2: preparing the scion

On the handle, make the same cut along the length as on the rootstock.

• Step 3: cutting reeds

Divide the stock cut mentally into 3 equal parts and, stepping back one third from the upper part, make a longitudinal incision with a knife along the axis of the shoot to a depth of about 10-12 mm. Do the same on the scion cut.

• Step 4: connecting the scion and rootstock

Bring the scion to the stock with the tongue by the tongue so that they tightly hold each other with the tongue lock. If the diameters of the stock and the cutting do not coincide slightly, the tongues make it possible to move the scion so that at least one side of the cambial layer coincides with the stock.

• Step 5: fixing the vaccination site

Just as with simple copulation, you need to tightly wrap the graft site with a plastic or special elastic tape, tightly pressing the rootstock and scion sections to each other. Each turn of the tape is also made with an overlap.

• Step 6: protecting the vaccine

The upper cut of the cutting is covered with garden varnish or plasticine. Put a clean plastic bag on the fixed area, tying it below the inoculation.

Comparing the methods of simple and improved copulation, one involuntarily comes to the conclusion that two simple cuts greatly facilitate the procedure. In addition, flat tongues greatly increase the area of \u200b\u200bcontact between the scion and rootstock. And this means - and the chances of good luck are increasing.

In the next video - a master class on grafting on an apple tree using the improved copulation method. It is conducted by Lyudmila Mikhailovna Sulimenko (Nizhny Novgorod State University named after N.I. Lobachevsky)

Well, we got to know two more ways of grafting fruit trees. You can start developing practical skills. And you need to start with the preparation of tools and materials.

Vaccination tools and supplies

What we need to get vaccinated:

• acute knife... It is advisable to purchase a special copulation (budding);

• garden secateurs;

It is advisable not to save on a knife and a pruner: good tools - the basis for successful work!

You can choose grafting knives and secateurs in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. ...

Copulation grafting is one of the most common methods for improving varieties, yields of shrubs and trees. The method is simple and does not require any expensive tools; every gardener will find everything he needs in his home or on the site. Its features and secrets will be discussed in the article.

What is copulation?

Copulation - this is the connection of the cutting and scion in the place of their identical, oblique cuts. The result of the work should look like a tied whole twig. The advantages of the method include its simplicity. Even an inexperienced gardener is able to carry out grafting by copulation and make a varietal tree or shrub out of any wild wilderness, which will regularly produce a large harvest. At the same time, an important plus is the high survival rate of vaccinations, in contrast to other methods.

There are two types of copulation in total - simple and improved. Their specifics and features will be described below.

What is needed for copulation?

Check out these articles as well

Copulation is a very effective method, but certain conditions and tools are required for its implementation. Copulation is not possible in every case. For its implementation, it is necessary to find a stalk and stock with the same diameter. In addition, you will need:

• damp cloth;
• a sharp knife, because if the knife is dull, an even cut will not come out and the scion will not take root;
• electrical tape or any other similar material, sometimes a simple rope or plastic wrap is used.
• garden pitch or plasticine;
• plastic bag.

How is normal copulation done?

Simple grafting by copulation involves joining the cuttings and rootstock at the point where they are cut. The method is carried out in early spring - when it is already possible to work on the street, but the buds have not yet blossomed. In order for the grafting to be successful, care must be taken to ensure that the scion has already begun to "wake up" after winter, and that the stalk is still dormant.

The first step is to prepare a young stalk (no more than 1.6 cm in diameter). On it, an even, oblique cut without notches is made 1-1.5 cm below the kidney at an angle of 15-25 °. There should be from 3 to 5 eyes on it - this is very important, because the more there are, the more difficult it will be for the handle to take root. A blunt cut at an angle of 45 ° is made over the upper bud of the scion. Another 15-25 ° oblique cut is made on the rootstock. The length of this cut should be 3-4 times the diameter of the rootstock branch.

Now comes the most crucial moment. The graft and stock must be connected so that an even, solid twig is obtained. Ideally, the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the rootstock should merge. In this case, fusion will occur much faster. Indeed, cambium plays a key role in grafting. This layer heals the "wounds" of the plant or fuses the cut site with another cut, as in this case.

Pressing the scion tightly to the stock, it is necessary to tightly overlap them with electrical tape, a strip of plastic film, rope or other similar material. During rewinding, it is necessary to ensure that the junction of the branches does not move. Some gardeners also recommend leaving the buds open while rewinding, rather than covering them with tape. But, in fact, this is not necessary.

After dressing, the top of the cutting, which has been cut off, is covered with garden pitch. The top of the stalk can be covered with a plastic bag to reduce evaporation. At the same time, it is important to ensure that, under the influence of moisture, the garden pitch does not slide off the branch, otherwise this will lead to drying out of the upper buds.

If everything is done correctly, after 2 weeks you can see how the buds on the handle started to grow.

What is special about improved copulation?

Simple copulation is very effective and easy, but it has one significant drawback - during bandaging, the junction of the cambium is often shifted. It is very difficult to keep the cutting and stock in one position. This requires either two people (one holds, the other knits), or very long training sessions. That is why the improved copulation method was invented.

Conducting improved copulation is practically no different, except for one moment. Oblique cuts on the handle and rootstock are made in a zigzag pattern or, as they say, “with tongues”. Due to the presence of a "tongue", the branches are more securely fastened and grow together faster. Hence the name - improved copulation.

• Experienced gardeners recommend that cuttings for copulation not only be prepared in autumn, but left in the snow for the whole winter. Thanks to this method of harvesting, the cutting will be at rest before copulation.
• The cut on the stem and rootstock should be done in one sharp motion. To get your hands on it, it is recommended to practice a little on simple twigs that can be found on the street before grafting. This will allow you to understand the principle and improve your skills.
• During grafting by copulation, it is important not to touch with your hands or any objects the cut site of a tree, shrub and cutting. This can lead to infection of the plant and negatively affect it.

• Stone fruits are grafted first, and then seed breeds. So, cherries and cherries need to be copulated until early April, and apple and pear - from April to mid-June.
• Before cutting for grafting, the scion and rootstock are wiped with a damp cloth to clean the area of \u200b\u200bdirt that can infect the plant.
• Improved copulation gives a more efficient and faster result, but it should only be carried out if it is already possible to cut for a simple copulation without any problems. This method is convenient in terms of dressing, and healing is quick. But, it is necessary to do the "tongues" correctly, otherwise there will be little sense.

If the eyes grafted in the fall (see the article "budding fruit trees") die from the cold in winter, in the spring they are grafted with a cuttings on the same trees - copulation, so that new cultivated annuals will develop from them.

Copulation methods

• simple copulation
• improved copulation
• saddle for the bark
• lateral cut
• for a bark with a thorn
• into cleavage

This is the most common type of grafting of fruit trees - with a saddle on the bark. In this way, they are grafted after the start of sap flow, when the bark is easily detached from the trees on which the cuttings (wild birds) are grafted. In other ways, you can vaccinate both before the start of sap flow, and after. The lateral incision grafting is also of great practical importance.

Harvesting cuttings

During the spring grafting of fruit, cuttings of the selected cultivars are harvested in the fall, after leaf fall, or in the spring, before bud break. Autumn is considered the best period for harvesting cuttings. Cuttings from selected mother trees are cut according to the same rules as for budding, tied into bundles and stored in a basement, cellar or in the snow in an open place. In the basement or cellar, the cuttings are laid in an inclined position, covered with wet sand, and so they are left until spring at a temperature of 2-3 degrees Celsius. For snoring in an open place when snow falls, bundles of cuttings are laid in layers in a stack up to 0.75 m high, sprinkling them with layers of snow 5-10 cm thick. The entire stack is covered with 50 cm of snow and additionally covered with straw. Cuttings are in the snow until the moment of grafting.

To send cuttings over long distances, they are placed in boxes with holes in the sides for air flow. Cuttings are laid in rows and sprinkled with wet sawdust mixed with crushed coal. If the cuttings dry out a little along the way, it is recommended to update the lower cuts and lower them in water for two to three days.

Before grafting, long cuttings are cut into smaller pieces (grafting cuttings). Each stalk is about 10 centimeters long and has several buds. Above the cut, two buds are left on the grafted cuttings.

Simple and improved copulation

Copulation is used with the same thickness of the rootstock and scion (cutting). On the rootstock, from the root collar, an oblique cut 4 - 5 cm long is made upward. The same cut is made on the handle below its second bud. The rootstock and the scion are cut together so that the tissues (bark, cambium, sapwood) coincide. Then a bandage is applied in spiral passages without a lumen along the entire length of the cut.

With improved copulation on oblique cuts of the cutting, small serifs are made in their upper third, which, when the cuts are aligned, go over each other. This connection achieves a better fit and an exact match of the rootstock and scion tissue.

Do it like this. The rootstock is cut at a height of four to five centimeters from the soil surface and the bark is cut longitudinally on the remaining hemp 2 to 2.5 cm in length. At the cutting below the second kidney, a horizontal notch is made - a shoulder (to a depth of one fourth of the thickness of the cutting) and an oblique wedge-shaped cut is made downwards from it. The stalk is inserted with a wedge under the bark incision with an oblique cut inward and lowered behind the bark until it rests against the upper cut of the stock with its shoulder. Then a bandage is applied without gaps, making moves in a spiral from top to bottom. The wounds and the bandage from the side of the wound are covered with garden varnish, consisting of rosin, beeswax and bacon. The rootstock with this grafting has a larger diameter than the scion.

Inoculation into cleavage is performed both before and after the start of sap flow. The rootstock diameter should be much larger than the scion.

The stock is cut at a height of four to five centimeters from the soil surface, then the butt is split with a large garden knife along the radius or diameter to form a gap. At the same time, a scion stalk is prepared. On it, below the second kidney, on the opposite side, two shoulders are made in a quarter of the diameter each, and from the shoulders downwards - 2 cuts, forming a wedge. The inside of the wedge is narrower than the outside.

The prepared cutting is inserted with a wedge into the gap on the rootstock so that the tissues (cambium, bark) on the rootstock and the scion coincide. Then she applies a continuous spiral bandage. The wound and the bandage on its side are covered with garden varnish.

With lateral grafting, the wildflower is cut at a height of 12–15 cm. Then, at the root collar, an oblique incision is made in the bark and wood down the stock, deepening by one third of its thickness. On the handle below the second kidney, two oblique cuts are made from opposite sides, converging at the bottom in a wedge. The prepared cutting is inserted into the incision on the rootstock so that the cambial layer coincides with the cambial layer of the rootstock along its entire length (3.5 - 5 cm). Then a spiral bandage is applied.

With the beginning of sap flow, the rootstocks are cut into a thorn at a height of 12–15 cm and a T-shaped incision in the bark is made at the bottom near the root collar, as in budding. On the handle below the second kidney, an oblique cut 3.5-4 cm long is made. Then this cutting is inserted with a cut inward behind the bark of the wild game into a T-shaped incision. The bandage is applied from top to bottom without gaps.

With all these methods of grafting, the cutting must be at rest. For better fusion of the stock and scion, it is recommended to use a garden pitch.

To prepare the garden var, take four parts of rosin, two parts of beeswax and one part of lamb fat. The mixture is melted over low heat, stirring thoroughly. Cooked var is stored in jars or in oiled paper. Garden var is applied to scion and rootstock cuts and cover the wound with a bandage. Garden pitch is valuable because it, being harmless to the plant, insulates wounds from moisture, dust and pathogenic microbes getting on them.

Grafting is one of the oldest plant propagation methods and it is a common practice to propagate a variety of fruit plants. Simple copulation is a simple technique for a beginner and has proven itself very fruitful on my apples, apricots, plums, and cherries. There are several other grafting techniques - eye grafting, split grafting, bark grafting - these are the most common.

There are several reasons why vaccinations are important for gardeners:

This is a useful technique for those with a small plot of land. Instead of harvesting from a bunch of trees at once, you can spread the fruiting of individual species throughout the season (since different varieties ripen at different times), and harvest several crops during the season. Moreover, you can significantly diversify the harvest with fruits with different aromas, flavors, shapes and sizes. Over the past few years I have nailed 10-12 species for each of my apple, plum, peach and apricot trees.

Some fruit trees are difficult to grow from seeds because the seeds do not retain the characteristics of the parent tree. Vaccination allows you to grow a plant that is identical in characteristics to its parent.

By using the appropriate “rootstock”, the size and growth of the tree can be controlled, and the root system can be selected to grow in a particular soil. For example, too clay soil is very dense, poorly ventilated and moisturized, which leads to diseases of fruit trees. But if you grow fruit on a rootstock adapted to such conditions, there will be no problems.

Certain types of fruit require pollinators. And instead of planting multiple trees, you can simply plant several different pollinators on one tree. This saves space and garden maintenance costs.

Not every fruit crop is easy or even possible to plant. For example, figs are difficult to graft because of the juice they produce. There are some innovative methods for growing figs, but I have not tried them yet. I propagate date trees by simple rooting ... maybe I'll write a master class about this soon.

Where to get grafts:
1) If one of your friends or relatives is growing your dream tree, you can cut off the branches and graft it.
2) Grafts can be taken from nurseries and private farms by agreement with the staff.
3) If there are any farms or gardens nearby, you can find out when they are pruning trees. Most likely, you are allowed to take the materials after trimming.
4) There are many online communities and specialty shops where people exchange materials or sell them to order.

When should you get vaccinated? I plant trees when they wake up from hibernation, sometime in early spring.

Compatibility

The compatibility between scion and stock must be considered. For example, between stone fruit trees (peaches, apricots, plums and nectarines). But you can't plant a peach on an apple tree. Apples and pears are also well compatible, but apples cannot be grafted onto oranges, and vice versa.

Different varieties of citrus fruits (limes, lemons, tangerines, oranges, etc.) go well with each other, but another technique is preferable here, such as budding, since citrus fruits do not shed their foliage, do not hibernate like stone fruit trees.

Step 1: storing grafts

In January, I collected many different grafts that I wanted to plant on my trees. I cut pieces of branches to fit the sealed bags, and put a piece of absorbent tissue in the bag to keep them from drying out. Each package contains a separate variety and is signed, and all the packages went to the refrigerator (not the freezer).

If the scion dries before grafting, the branch will die, so every effort should be made to ensure that it does not dry out during storage. For this, a wet napkin is placed in a bag with scions. And after grafting, the place of the scion is protected with a layer of emulsion or special tape.

Step 2: Preparing the scion site

When it comes time for grafting (spring), I compare the diameter of the scion and the intended rootstock branch. I compare the diameters of the branches with a caliper or just by eye. The vaccine has a great chance of survival when the diameters converge.

Why is this so important? Nutrients are transported through the plant in the cambium layer just below the bark. The better the contact of the cambium of the scion with the cambium of the rootstock, the higher the probability that the scion will take root.

With a sharp knife, I cut the rootstock branch to prepare it for joining with the rootstock.

Step 3: Checking the diameter

The figure shows both branches - rootstock and scion. Both have approximately the same diameter. Let's check the diameters one last time to make sure the branches are the same size.

In some grafting techniques, the coincidence of diameters is not so important because of the way the scion contacts the stock. But in our case, this is important.

Step 4: pruning the rootstock

I use a sharp knife to cut the rootstock at an angle. I will also cut the scion at an angle so that both cuts are the same size. Some gardeners prefer special garden accessories, but a regular retractable knife works great for me. Plus, the blades are easy to change and are available everywhere. I like to cut with one notch, even. The greater the contact surface of the scion with the stock, the greater the likelihood of good contact and accretion.

In this whole story, the most experience is required precisely in the correct cut of the rootstock and scion. This is the most important place in the entire vaccination process.

Step 5: pruning the scion

I cut the scion at the same angle as the rootstock. Sometimes I need to redo the cut several times until I get the desired result. My goal here is to connect the cambium layers on two branches in order to start the process of feeding the scion from the rootstock as quickly as possible, and vice versa.

Good cuts are a matter of practice. This is the most important point in the vaccination process.

One of the varieties of copulation vaccination is “tongue copulation”, which I will describe in a separate master class.

Step 6: joining the scion and rootstock

When connecting, the cuttings of the rootstock and the scion must match. The goal is simple - to fuse the cambium of the rootstock with the cambium of the scion so that the nutrients begin to circulate fully.

After the slices were aligned, there were two goals left:
1) Organize mechanical stability between the stock and the scion: I fasten the branches with a rubber band or electrical tape.

2) Prevent the scion from drying out. I paint the splice and the entire scion with water-based paint to reduce moisture evaporation. Homemade latex paint is great for this. Some use a special grafting tape, parafilm, or plastic tape to cover the scion.

Step 7: Signing the vaccination

I put a label next to the graft to determine the grade and date. I also write on the tablet what and where I grafted. So I keep a record of all vaccinations, with notes regarding the requirements of the varieties and the behavior of the shoots. The graph shows the harvest for the year - I have some kind of fruit in stock all the time, and they are quite varied throughout the season.

Step 8: Example: Grafting an Apricot

This apricot tree has been grafted many times, so I collect 8 different varieties of apricots from one tree. The photo shows growth from several weeks to several months.

The photo shows that even after months, the vaccination site is visible on the shoot. However, it is simply amazing how much the scion has grown in these three months!

Step 9: Example: grafting an apple