Waste oil burner based on the robert babington principle. Do-it-yourself burner for working off: step-by-step instructions with a photo Simple waste oil burner

For those who run their own auto repair shop or simply have large stocks of used oil, the creation of a burner will be an irreplaceable thing. The burner described below can be operated with waste oil, and the oil can be mixed with water or even sawdust. This will allow you to easily heat the garage or other room with used oil.

The principle of the device is very simple. The oil flows over a spherical surface, forming a thin film on it. This surface has an opening through which combustible gas or ordinary air is supplied under pressure. This causes the air to spray the oil and ignite it in the oven. A simple heating system is provided to help spray oil more efficiently during the cold season.

DIY materials and tools:
- sheet metal;
- bucket;
- car oil pump;
- electric motor for oil pump (with speed controller);
- bolt for M10;
- light and heat sensors;
- copper tube;
- air solenoid valve.

Tools: drill, soldering iron, hacksaw, grinder, keys, pliers, welding machine.

Let's start assembling the burner:

Step one. Schematic diagram devices
Such a device is also called a Babington burner. Below you can see the original diagram.

During operation, oil flows along the outer part of the nozzle, therefore, its purity does not affect the operation of the device. Homemade air consumes very little, only a few liters per hour. Compressors from refrigerators or aquariums are suitable for creating airflow.

The system has an oil pump, it is designed so that the oil flowing down the sphere is fed back up into the container.

Step two. Burner type
The burner was designed as a nozzle that fits over a bucket of oil. The oil pump as well as the engine and governor were bolted to a sheet of metal. As a result, the design came out as in the photo.

Step three. Nozzle manufacturing
Since the author could not find a spherical structural element, this part was made from a piece of stainless steel, which was welded to an M10 bolt. Next, the plate was spherical with emery.

A 5 mm hole was drilled in the center of the bolt. Then an aluminum plug was pressed into this hole. And already in this plug a hole with a diameter of 0.3 mm was drilled, but it is recommended to use a hole with a diameter of 0.25 mm.

The nozzle was then inserted into a 1.5 "cast iron tee. For the tee, a base was made with a water seal as safety.

Here is another diagram of how the burner should work.

Step four. Assembling the mechanical part of the device
The copper tube must be rolled into a spiral, in diameter it should be slightly larger than the outlet diameter of the tee. To successfully bend the tube into a spiral, it must be filled with sand.

Then the tube is attached to the tee. That's all, the burner is assembled. The coil is needed to heat the incoming oil. This is done so that the heated oil becomes more liquid, and this allows it to be better sprayed.

In the photo you can see what the front nozzle looks like. As you can see, the oil is sprayed quite thinly during operation.

Step five. Electronic part of the burner
Using some sensors and others electrical devices, you can achieve autonomous work burners.
A propane burner was purchased to make the burner easy to start.

The system will work as follows. At start-up, the controller will give a spark and at the same time open the gas valve. After the gas ignites, the thermocouple will detect the presence of fire and then the electronics will begin to supply oil and air. Then, using an optical sensor, the flickering of the burner flame is monitored. As soon as the flame starts to flicker steadily, the electronics will shut off the gas supply.

The system will also have a temperature sensor. When the burner heats up to its maximum allowable temperature, it will shut down, cool down and then turn on again.

If desired, the homemade product can be equipped with two nozzles, as a result, the burner will be able to operate in three modes. For example, you can turn on a small nozzle, a large one, or both at the same time. This will require two air valves.

The author decided to make the burner for starting himself, focusing on the principle of the Chinese burner.

As a result, the Babington Burner is capable of operating at a propane pressure of 0.2-1 kg / cm. A tube with a candle from a car was welded to the burner so that the burner could be attached to it for starting. A tube was also installed for attaching the flame detector.

According to the author, the burner starts up easily, one spark is enough. In this case, it burns fairly evenly and the flame cannot be blown out. The propane pressure was kept low so that the Babington burner could operate in cold winters. In winter, it can be about 0.5-1 kg / cm.

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Disposal of used engine oil (waste) is a rather serious problem all over the world. At the same time, the energy potential of mining is high; burning it, you can get a lot of heat, incomparably cheaper than from any other energy source. The question of how to make a burner for working off with your own hands is of interest not only to those professionally associated with the auto industry - the reserve of working out will help to save a significant amount on heating utility rooms in a private household. For heating living quarters, the mining is completely unsuitable due to the initial additives contained in it in the engine oil and impurities that have got into it during operation. However, mining is a very specific fuel, and any other burner for liquid fuel will not work on it. This article examines what types of burners "eat" mining and what needs to be considered when making them.

Fuel features

Waste fuel is not only dirty but also very sticky. One of the tasks of additives in engine oil is to ensure that it sticks to a thin layer of rubbing surfaces operating in difficult conditions. Therefore, the burners during mining work almost exclusively with fuel heating, which increases its fluidity: too viscous fuel does not mix properly with air, does not pass through the nozzle nozzle, or does not cover the spray head with an even layer (see below).

It is also not so easy to set fire to working off: what is it for the engine oil burning in a very hot engine? In fact, only an electric spark and a gas torch are suitable for quick and reliable ignition of a mine. There is, however, one exception, see below.

And third, mining is contaminated not only with solid particles, but also with water and / or antifreeze that got into it from the engine cooling system. Fuel filtration is a complex process. It makes sense to organize it only if the working out for fuel is constantly available, for example, in a sufficiently large and busy auto repair shop, and the burner for working out for irregular use should be insensitive not only to solid contaminants, but also to water cut in the fuel.

Electricity for the burner

Hence, an unfavorable conclusion follows: there are no non-volatile burners during mining. There are ways to burn the mining without pressurization and heating, but such devices (see below) give acceptable technical and environmental indicators only as part of the heat-generating devices developed at the same time and are not burners as such. Therefore, if your electricity supply is unreliable, and there is enough work off, it will be better either to have a boiler.

Which one to do?

Based on the listed features, a homemade waste oil burner can be made according to one of the following. systems:

• Ejection supercharged.
• Spray injector (Babington burner).
• Fuel-air free volumetric combustion (cup evaporative burner).

Comparative advantages and disadvantages

Ejection

The ejection burner ensures complete combustion of the fuel and the minimum possible amount of by-products in the exhaust gases. The flame is hot, over 1200 degrees, fuel consumption is minimal for this class of devices (see also at the end). Homemade power - 1.5-100 kW. Adjustment of the output (modulation) of the burner is possible in the entire specified range. It is without restrictions applicable for technological purposes, and in exceptional cases it is applicable for temporary heating of residential premises, if furnace door staff heating furnace or the boiler goes into non-residential premises - into the hallway, closet, furnace, etc.

Note: the kitchen and sauna are considered living quarters.

The disadvantages of the ejection burner during mining are also significant:

1. Technically difficult: precise metal parts are used that require a machine tool park;
2. On untreated mining, it immediately fails, therefore, it makes no sense to make an ejection burner for mining without having a filtering fuel station;
3. The most volatile - its own specific power consumption is approx. 20 W per 1 kW of thermal power in the range of the latter 5-40 kW. Below and above these values, the own specific power consumption increases.
4. Requires the supply of control automation, because it is very sensitive to the properties and quality of the fuel, which are unstable even in the treated mining;
5. More than other types of burners, it is prone to avoidable failures in operation.

Ejection burners are used for burning waste mainly for heating large rooms or providing technological processes in conditions when fuel for them is constantly available.

Injection

The injector burner is completely insensitive to the degree of fuel contamination, if only 30-40% of something fuel remains in it. Technically simpler than the previous one - a Babington burner can be made at home from scrap materials (see below) if you have a tabletop drilling machine. Amateur power range - approx. 3-20 kW. Burner modulation is possible from approx. from 30% of maximum power. It is possible to achieve modulation from 10% of the maximum, then the technical complexity of manufacturing increases significantly, and the tendency to failures increases. It can work without electric fuel heating; in this case, its own energy consumption is up to 300 W, regardless of the thermal power; in the overwhelming majority of cases - up to 100 W. If the fuel is heated by a heating element in the storage tank, then its own energy consumption is the same as before. case. Without control automation, it is prone to failures when changing a lot of fuel without reconfiguring the burner.

For DIYers, an important advantage of the Babington burner is that its pressurization is able to provide compresses from an old broken refrigerator, see below. However, the Babington burner has enough disadvantages:

• The fuel does not burn completely. Fuel efficiency of the simplest Babington burner (see below) approx. 80% It is possible to bring the degree of fuel combustion up to 95-97%, but then its technical complexity increases to comparable to the ejection one. True, turning and milling machines are still not required for manufacturing, and the burner's own energy consumption does not increase;
• As a consequence of the previous. etc., the Babington burner emits a lot of fuel vapors into the air, which makes it absolutely unsuitable for residential premises and limitedly suitable for premises with people and / or objects sensitive to oiling temporarily staying there. However, it is possible to drive the flame of the Babington burner into the pipe (see below), which significantly reduces the indicated disadvantages;
• The flame is also dirty and not very hot, up to 900-1000 degrees. Therefore, the injection burner at the development is of limited use for thermal technological processes with ferrous metals, and will spoil non-ferrous and even more precious precious ones.

Homemade Babington burners are most often used for temporary heating of utility rooms or in simple technological processese.g. for heating conventional structural steel for bending.

Evaporative

The fuel-air burner during mining can be made from improvised trash without the use of complex technological operations. Power - approx. 5-15 kW. Fuel without readjustment eats any heavy: in addition to mining, other mineral and vegetable oil, fuel oil, oil sludge. Refuses only if misused. Fuel combustion by-products exudes more than the previous one, therefore, it is applicable either for the temporary start of heating devices with good chimney in non-residential premises, or in the open air. For technological purposes it is very limitedly applicable, since gives a column of hot gases with a temperature of less than 600 degrees. The most accessible type of burner for manufacturing by novice craftsmen.

Schemes and designs

Ejection

Another feature of mining as a fuel is that it is very difficult to supply all the air necessary for its combustion under pressurization, it takes a lot. Therefore, supercharging in burners of this type predominantly draws fuel from the nozzle of the ejector and atomizes it, and the air for afterburning is sucked directly into the flame. Such a scheme makes it possible to get by with an electric power of up to 100 W for pressurization, and the rest is spent on heating the fuel with a heating element. In general, the idea is as follows: part of the electrical power (with a significant increase, by the way) required for pressurization with more fluid fuel is used to heat the mining, and the usual ejection burner generally works on it.

A well-known diagram of the device of an ejection burner for development and drawings of its heart - nozzles for approx. 3-30 kW are given in fig. Such a burner is installed on a blind flange in the furnace opening of the furnace / boiler, and the secondary air is sucked into the torch through the blower. However, besides the nozzle, there are also subtle points in this design.

Turbulizer

The first of them is an air flow turbulator (a swirler in the diagram in the figure above). The pressurization of the ejector burner during mining can be provided by a built-in scroll fan or, through a reducer, by a pneumatic system of an enterprise or by an industrial (possibly household of a similar design) reciprocating compressor. For a burner power of about 3-15 kW, it is also possible to pressurize from a refrigeration compressor from 250 W electric.

The turbulator design changes depending on the pressurization method. The compressor or compressed air distribution for the pneumatic tool drive gives, under the conditions necessary for fuel ejection in the air jacket of the burner, too powerful and fast air flow. The same is possible with too powerful a snail, for example, taken from old trash. In this case, the turbulator should be an annular diaphragm around the nozzle with wide, slightly curved outer blades, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. A pseudo-laminar air jet from the diaphragm will pull fuel out of the nozzle and ensure its stable ignition (see below), and 3-5 cm from the diaphragm, the burning oil mist will be picked up by a powerful vortex, atomized until evaporated and completely burned.

If the air flow is optimal (built-in snail by design) or rather weak (compressor from the refrigerator), then the turbulator of many narrow, more curved internal blades is combined with the diaphragm, and an annular gap of 0.5-1.5 cm is left along the edge of the turbulator. - the vortex has less resistance to the air flow, a weak but immediately well-swirled vortex effectively sucks and sprays the fuel, and the annular flow from the gap prevents the vortex from spreading to the sides until the fuel evaporates in the torch.

Note: the expediency of one or another turbulator for a particular burner is determined by experience - the ignition of the fuel must be stable, and there must be no flame outages in the entire range of adjustment of the burner power. You need to start with a diaphragm with external blades, bending them more and more. It does not work out - it is necessary to switch to a turbulator diaphragm with internal blades.

Ignition

The second subtlety is torch lighting. A candlestick with a removed "foot" (body lamella) is not very suitable, because It is designed to ignite light fuel vapors with a short spark, and not a heavy fog with a long one.

It is necessary to ignite the torch of the burner during the development with electrodes for igniting boilers on liquid fuel, see Fig. The distance between the spark gaps (tips, tips) of the electrodes requires 3-8 mm (for burners for 3-30 kW), and the distance from the bare metal parts of the electrodes to the nearest metal parts of the structure should be at least three times greater. Including the nozzle: at the moment of ignition, the arresters should be in the oil mist emitted by the nozzle and ignite it with a spark between themselves. Ignition with a spark from the spark gap to the injector will give a weak unstable flame that will easily break off from fluctuations in the boost or fuel supply.

For ignition with two spark gaps, a special ignition transformer with an insulated secondary winding of 6-8 kV is required. Its leads are connected to the ignition electrodes with wires in a thick, from 2 mm, heat-resistant insulation made of silicone or Teflon (fluoroplastic). Better - in the latter: when heated to 150 degrees, the breakdown resistance of fluoroplastic-4 remains approx. 80 kV per mm, and silicone will not be higher than 20 kV / mm. Such a huge margin of dielectric strength is necessary due to the strong contamination of the wires during operation.

The special ignition transformer is expensive because these are available for boilers from 20 kW. If the burner power is up to 15 kW (and for the Babington burner described below), you can use a single-wire ignition circuit from an automobile ignition coil with a spark from an electrode to a nozzle; means the presence of only one high-voltage wire. The condition is manual activation of the mode: the burner is ignited at the minimum power and manually brought to the standard one, making sure that the torch does not clog in convulsions and does not break.

To ignite the burner during mining in a single-wire circuit, the transformer housing terminal is connected to the burner body and the nozzle by different return wires. Spark not d.C., and a pulse discharge, and electrical circuit becomes sensitive to the presence of reactivity in it. The electrical reactivity of the massive burner body is greater than that of the nozzles, which makes it easier for the spark to opt for a nozzle. If, however, a small inductance is additionally included in the housing return wire (see Fig.), Then the single-wire ignition will become quite stable.

About automation

Burners for development, the operating mode of which is set from the remote control (for example, the well-known NORTEC) are very expensive, but without automation it makes no sense to fence a homemade ejection burner during development: even with a fixed power and fueling from one batch, it is necessary to regulate simultaneously to obtain a stable flame fuel heating and air supply. Therefore, home-made ejection burners for testing (excluding samples, just to tinker with them) are made semi-automatic with manual power setting and the use of relatively inexpensive automation from heating boilers, see, for example. video

Video: working burner with automation

Burner Babington

Robert Babington himself, who patented his burner in 1979, admitted that, desperate to come up with a nozzle that would not clog from working off, he remembered one of Murphy's laws, which reads: “If the iron doesn’t want to work anyway, try to make it all the way around. " Babington tried to blow air through a thin layer of oil - it worked. The fog has gone, and how to burn it is known.

Such technical solution proved possible due to the fact that the oil is a rheological fluid. Simply superfluid. Superfluid is not just exotic helium II. There are plenty of rheological fluids around us. Who forgot an open jar on the table with sunflower oil, will immediately understand.

The design of the Babington burner is shown on the left in the figure, and on the right is the arrangement of the combustion chamber (afterburner) for it. The disadvantage of this burner is already visible here: in order to burn the mining by more than 95%, a 3-stage air supply is required (except for spraying), and partly with heating. Although no boost is required anyway.

The operation of a Babington burner is quite simple: the fuel drips onto a spherical spray head, which ensures its even spreading. It drips with excess so that the air always has something to blow off. The oil ejected by the air jet from the nozzle in the head forms a mist that is ignited. The fuel film constantly creeps onto the nozzle due to the rheological properties of the oil. Excess fuel flows into a collector, from where it is fed back to the supply tank (feeder) by a feed pump through the heater. Often, instead of a float that turns on the pump, the feeder is supplied with a drain of the excess in the tank directly into the collector; the feed pump then runs continuously. However, there are enough structural nuances in the Babington burner.

Do you need a full scope?

The power taken from one nozzle of a Babington burner is limited by the final flow rate of the oil. Therefore, the heads of the powerful Babington burners are literally pitted. If no more than 5-7 kW is required from the burner, it is possible to use a part of a spherical surface instead of a technologically complex full-spherical head.

A Babington burner with a partially spherical spray head is shown in fig; (How to do this, in all details and with a photo, is described here: diyworkplace.ru/14-diy-oil-burner.html). In addition to the availability of materials, it is good to learn how to adjust the fuel supply on this burner: a little more dal, oil flows over the head petal, stinks, burns, clogs the spray chamber.

The sphere is still better

A spherical head in a Babington burner is also better in that it saves fuel: in a burner with a partially spherical head, a good portion of the return flow burns up to the point of being unusable. In the end, it turns out that there is still a quarter or more in the tank, and the burner does not start.

How to make a Babington burner spray head from inexpensive materials for a completely different purpose, available commercially, is shown in Fig.:

The curtain cornice plug is good in that its cut surface is flat and even. Drilling a nozzle hole in such a blank of the head is not difficult on an ordinary drilling machine... If it moves away from the pole of the sphere within 1-2 mm, it's nothing. The main thing is that the axes of the nozzle and the sphere will be parallel and the torch will hit evenly. You can even increase the power of the burner by drilling 3-4 holes around the pole of the sphere at least 6 mm from each other in a triangle or square. It remains to decide - how to drill?

How to drill a hole 0.25 with a 0.6 drill

The admissible range of the nozzle diameter of the Babington burner is 0.1-0.5 mm. A smaller maximum power is removed from a narrow nozzle, but the range of its adjustment is expanded, which is carried out by changing the air pressure for atomization. The latter for a 0.1 mm nozzle can vary within 0.5-5 atm, for a 0.25 mm nozzle - 1-3 atm, and the pressure in front of a 0.5 mm nozzle must be kept within 2 (+/-) 0, 2 atm, otherwise the flame either breaks down or goes out. The size of the nozzle diameter 0.25 mm was still considered optimal by Babington; narrower nozzles are clogged with dust from the air, which requires at least a 2-stage cleaning.

But how to drill a 0.25mm hole? You can't buy such drills everywhere, and you need a machine with increased accuracy, otherwise the drill breaks immediately.

The way out is to make a nozzle from a part of a needle from a medical syringe. Syringe needle channel diameters 0.2-1 cu. cm are just in the optimal range, and their outer diameter is 0.4-0.6 mm. These drills are widely commercially available, and you can fill them in an ordinary tabletop drill. The manufacture of a Babington burner nozzle from a medical needle is produced by a trace. way:

• Cut a piece from the needle with a length of 2-3 mm more than the thickness of the head wall.
• We clean it with a thin rigid wire from sawdust and burrs.
• With a drill slightly larger than the outer diameter of the needle, we drill a pioneer channel in the head. If you drill a channel for a 0.4 needle outward with a 0.6 drill, it's okay.
• With a drill with a diameter of 0.15-0.2 mm larger than the pioneer one, we countersink the hole on both sides. You need to remove a tiny chamfer, so we countersink by hand, wrapping the drill shank with electrical tape and turning it with your fingers.
• Insert a piece of needle into the pioneer hole.
• With two sharp awls or, better, locksmith scribes, we unfold the ends of the needle segment. It is necessary to unfold from the same time, slightly pressing and turning the tools in opposite directions.
• We leave the bell inside as is, it does not interfere with anything.
• Remove the external surplus with an emery stone no rougher than No. 360.
• Once again we clean the nozzle channel, blow it through - the head is ready.

And if the head is already ready?

Very much possible variant... If you take a ready-made diesel fuel nozzle on the head; a defective one from junk or cheap will do. Amateurs are confused that they are produced for a power of 20 kW, but in this case there is nothing to be afraid of, because not diesel fuel, but air will go into the nozzle. But its working surface is exactly hemispherical, mirror-smooth, with a collar that prevents oil from flowing where it is not necessary to burn. The nozzle, however, will be from 0.7 mm, but it can be narrowed, as described above. How to make a Babington burner head from a diesel nozzle suitable for long-term intensive use, and even with automation from a hot water boiler, see plot

Video: Babington burner with automation

Spray compressor

Air for atomization in a Babington burner requires little, but at a decent pressure. A compressor from an old refrigerator is best suited for this purpose, only a car air filter must be placed in front of it, otherwise the vacuum pump will quickly fail. You also need a receiver, because such a compressor will give a very pulsating jet.

How to adapt a compressor from a refrigerator for air supply of a Babington burner during testing

A great advantage of such a system is the ability to automate the ignition of the burner without electronics. For this we use a safety valve (see fig.), Because refrigeration compressor is catching up with pressure more than 5 atm. We take the worst valve, a poppet with a flat seat (the plate and the seat will need to be ground together with abrasive No. 600 or thinner and rinsed with alcohol). Such valves have a large hysteresis (the ratio of opening and closing pressures), but in this case, that's what we need. We will also increase the valve hysteresis by putting a weight on its stem. When the compressor inflates the receiver to the pressure of the initial actuation, the valve abruptly “squirts”, jumps up and closes the microswitch supplying power to the ignition transformer for 1-2 seconds. The oil consumption will go for combustion, the air consumption will increase (it is more difficult to blow a cold oil film), and the valve will start working on the side, not reaching the mikrik. It is convenient to change the air pressure with the adjusting nut to change the burner power.

Compressor lubrication

In the refrigerator, the compressor is lubricated with a refrigerant, because it does not pump out pure steam from the evaporator, but freon mist. Suddenly, the compressor began to screech, which means that there is too much refrigerant and it circulates in the system in a drip-liquid state. If you force a refrigeration compressor to pump air, it will soon deteriorate without lubrication.

You can lubricate the compressor from the refrigerator with a spindle or other machine oil for precision mechanics. First you need to make a lubricant dispenser, from a 50-100 ml tank, needles from a regular syringe for 2-10 cubes, tubes from a blood transfusion machine and a pair of clamps from it. The upper ones block the supply of grease, and the lower ones regulate its value.

The dispenser is adjusted in free space... It is necessary to ensure that a drop of lubricating oil accumulates on the needle point, directed exactly downward, for 2-4 minutes, and hangs the same amount until it comes off. Then the needle is perpendicularly inserted into the compressor supply air duct so that its bevel is in the middle of the lumen and is oriented downstream. If the needle is beveled to the side or against the air, oil will not flow.

The system is ready for use, but it will still need to be followed up in the process. Suddenly, some time after starting the burner, the nature of combustion will change, which means that a lot of oil goes to the compressor and it drives the excess with air. If at least 10 minutes pass before this, and the flame remains, only begins to pulsate or smoke, you can fix the matter by slightly turning the needle, no more than 45 degrees. It does not help or symptoms appear earlier - you need to readjust the lubricant dispenser for a longer drop accumulation time.

Flame into the pipe!

An interesting experiment can be done with a burner during testing, the results of which are visible on the trail. fig .:

Having passed the burner flame through only 1 m of a wide pipe, we will see it not so mad and very cooled down (pos. 1), and a powerful stream of heated air will be noticeable upward from the pipe. If we take a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm and a length of 3 m (pos. 2), then the temperature of the gases at its outlet will drop to less than 100 degrees. We put the mouth of the pipe outside - the oil stench in the room will cease to be felt, although the gas analyzer will show the excess of the housing norm by impurities. It remains to hermetically connect the mouth of the pipe to the chimney, and we will get a heating system with an efficiency of more than 80%.

Evaporative

The waste can be burned without any pressurization or heating at all, dropping it into a hot bowl. But such devices, as mentioned above, more or less decently work only as part of a boiler or furnace for development, so that they are not burners in their own sense and are considered in other publications.

A fuel-air mixture is supplied to the evaporator burner bowl during the development, i.e. a small boost is required (fan from 20 W). The bowl is preheated either by a gas torch (item 1 in the figure), or by drop-by-drop (not yet pressurized) standard fuel ignited by a glow plug (item 2). The latter is easier, but the first 3-5 minutes of soot will be a lot. When the flame from the next drop is cleared and begins to soar with a noise, the candle is turned off and air is released. Blue tongues will appear in the bowl (pos. 3 and 4), indicating the complete combustion of the oil, but impurities to it will pass into a more chemically aggressive form and go into the air, therefore, you need to use evaporative burners carefully during mining, see above. The evaporative burner is not critical to the size of the parts; base - water pipes 1/2 "and 2".

Note: for a temporary start-up on mining, for example, a garage stove, it will be more convenient to have an evaporative burner operating on the same principle, but into which the fuel-air mixture is fed from the side along a tangent, see the video below:

Video: Evaporative Burner for Furnace Development

Let's sum up

So, the burner for testing is a rather complicated device, you can't do this on a table at home. However, when deciding whether or not to be a burner to be worked out of your hands, consider one more significant circumstance. Namely, the specific fuel consumption for heating by mining is the smallest: approx. 100 ml per 1 kW of heat output per hour. The best diesel and oil burners consume from 130 ml * kW / hour, and kerosene and gasoline from 160 ml * kW / hour. The cost of heating from those, others and third is not necessary to compare, because testing has already worked out its price in the motor.

A do-it-yourself burner may be needed when cold weather sets in. You can, of course, use other types of equipment of this kind to heat your home, but one of the cheapest and easiest to manufacture is a waste oil burner. With its help, you can quite simply heat country house or utility room... As an advantage, one can single out not only the low cost of manufacturing, but also the availability of fuel, which is consumed very economically. If you work for a transport company, or you have the opportunity to get oil, then it will be possible not only to use fuel for free, but also to dispose of it without any problems.

Features of the manufacture of the burner

Made with your own hands, it should have an insignificant size, and outwardly it will begin to resemble gas bottle... Pipe sections made of metal are fixed to the body from above and below. It is necessary to strengthen them by welding, and arrange them opposite to each other. The lower section is needed in order to supply the oil-oxygen suspension to the compartment where combustion is carried out. The upper section is used as a torch socket. A torch of flame with significant temperature erupts from it. In order to ensure the flow of air into the structure for the formation of a flame, a household vacuum cleaner is used, it is necessary to use one that has significant power.

Preparation before starting work

A do-it-yourself burner cannot be done without using a certain set of tools, including a welding machine, which will allow you to correctly connect the elements. You will also need a grinder, as well lathe.

The manufacturing process should start from the body, for which you have to find an empty gas cylinder, the dimensions of which are suitable.

Balloon manipulation

If you are thinking about how to make a burner using Babington's waste oil with your own hands, then you must first get rid of the cylinder filler hole. Further, using a previously prepared template, it is necessary to make a markup, which will be needed for the correct installation of pipes. Then it comes into play if there is one in your toolbox. With its help, it is necessary to prepare the holes, placing them along the inner part of the contour. In the process, it will be necessary to use a spiral drill. You have to get rid of the jumpers that have formed between the holes, you need to use a chisel or grinder, but you must act very carefully.

A do-it-yourself burner for working off should be made taking into account the formation of the correct holes for installing pipes, for this you should use a round file that will allow you to bore circles, you need to act manually, which will complicate the process and make it longer. If you wish, instead of this tool, you can use a cutter, which is previously placed in an electric drill. Do not forget that when working with metal, the master must necessarily follow the safety rules.

Work on the installation of pipes

Pipes should be installed in holes of the required diameter, which are attached by welding. Pipes need to be marked in advance, and then cut off the desired part from them using a grinder. At the bottom of this element, it is worth making a hole, and then weld the M16 nut. This hole is useful for mounting the oil nozzle.

Nozzle manufacturing

A do-it-yourself waste oil burner, the instructions for the manufacture of which are presented in the article, can be performed on a lathe, which will come in handy at the stage of the oil nozzle. As a base, it is worth using a rod that has a smooth shank. It will be needed when fixing the fuel supply hose. If it is in the burner, then you need to prepare the thread on this part. A significant part of the length of the rod should be metric. The pipe must have a diameter of 16 mm. A hole must be drilled almost the entire length of the nozzle. It can have a transverse piece that is at the bottom, while its diameter is 3 mm. If the master can work on a lathe, then this part can be easily done independently. But if you do not have such equipment available, then the manufacture of a part can be ordered from a specialist.

The principle of operation of the described part of the burner is based on the drainage of oil, which has a viscous consistency, from a hole made in the transverse part. After the development is captured by the flow of oxygen. This breaks the fuel into droplets. This makes the ignition easier.

Manufacturing of a burner for testing

A do-it-yourself burner, the working model of which is presented in the article, will work as efficiently as the oxygen flow is intense. The system for correcting this parameter is based on a cup made of metal. It has a semicircular bottom, among other things, it has a hole that has a given diameter. This rather simple part can also be made on a lathe. You can make the bottom in the form of a hemisphere using cutters, and a professional turner should do the work. It is necessary to correct the air flow with a curtain that has round shape... Its fastening should be made on an L-shaped axis, using an M4 screw for this, only in this way it will be possible to obtain a strong pairing, which the completed burner will have with its own hands, the used oil in it can become dangerous. But you can avoid problems that can lead to a fire if you follow the rules fire safety.

In order to ensure a reliable connection of the outlet pipe to which the hose is attached, an adapter should be used. The latter must have a slot along its entire length. The adapter, among other things, will ensure the normal operation of the air damper.

Burner cover manufacturing

During ignition, access to the working compartment is provided by an element that is made in the form of a cover. This part must have a significant enough weight. It is mounted on pre-welded canopies, which must be mounted on the neck of the structure body. If the element is made in a less impressive weight, then there will be a possibility of spontaneous opening of the device during the operation of the burner. You can check the correct operation of the burner by evaluating the flame, which should be even and have a purple tint; it will appear when the oil-oxygen mixture burns in the structure housing.

Fire safety rules

A homemade waste oil burner should be not only efficient, but also safe. In order to ensure compliance with safety rules, it is necessary to protect the place of fixation of the nozzle and hose, through the last of which oil flows in liquid form. Protection should be done by using a metal shield. It is necessary in order to prevent working off from fire if a leakage occurs.

Finally

It is quite simple to do it yourself, at least at some stages there is a need to use a lathe. If you have one available, then you must follow the safety rules. The same applies to locksmith work. Among other things, it may be necessary to use other power tools in the work, which imply the need to comply with fire safety requirements. The master must use personal protective equipment.

When making a Babington burner with your own hands, care must be taken when choosing a cylinder that will form the basis of the burner body. It is imperative to free it from gas residues, otherwise an unforeseen situation may arise, fraught with life-threatening injuries.

Burner Babington

Manufacturing complexity: ★★★★★

Production time: A couple of days

Scrapbook: ██████░░░░ 60%

I work in a car repair shop, faced with the problem of waste disposal. Recently I found an interesting scheme on the Internet, and decided to make working burner with her own hands, and she can work with unrefined oil mixed with water or even with shavings!
The basic idea is this: oil flows over a spherical surface and spreads over it in a thin film. If air or combustible gas is blown through a small hole in the surface (just below the oil), the jet will spray the oil finely. If set on fire, we get an excellent oil torch.

• Bucket
• Sheet metal
• Automotive oil pump
• Oil pump motor with speed governor
• Bolt М10
• Copper tube
• Heat and light sensors
• Solenoid air valve

• Drill
• Bulgarian or hacksaw
• Welding machine
• Keys, pliers
• Soldering iron

How to make a burner for testing




Scheme of work


In honor of its creator, the burner is called the Babington burner. Here is the original schematic







How does it work


The oil flows outside the nozzle, so its cleanliness does not affect performance. The air consumption is very low, only a few liters per hour.


Can be used homemade compressors from refrigerators, or compressors from aquariums.


Also, the oil flowing from the sphere must be fed back to the tank, which means that an oil pump is needed.


• I decided to make the burner in the form of a nozzle on a bucket of oil. An automobile oil pump is attached to a sheet of iron along with a motor and gearbox and a speed governor for adjusting the oil supply.
  

  

  
  

  We make a burner nozzle for testing

  
  

  It was not possible to find a metal sphere, so I welded a strip of stainless steel to an M10 bolt and gave it a spherical shape on emery.

  
  

  I made a hole with a diameter of 5 mm in the center of the bolt, and pressed an aluminum plug into this hole, and made a hole with a diameter of 0.3 mm in it,
  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  I inserted the nozzle into a 1.5 "cast-iron tee, made a base with a water seal for the tee for safety.
  

  

  Schematic diagram of the future Babington burner

  

  
  

  We roll up the copper tube into a spiral with a diameter slightly larger than the outlet diameter of the tee
  

  In order not to disturb the structure of the tube, pour sand into it before bending.

  
  
  

  We attach the tube to the tee.
  Babington burner assembly. The oil is supplied through a copper tube. The tube is bent into a spiral to heat the oil.
  

  The heated oil becomes thinner and more atomized

  
  

  

  
  

  Nozzle

  
  Front view, you can see the nozzle in the center
  

  

  
  Here is a burner in operation. You can see how finely the oil is sprayed
  

  

  
  

  Burner automation during mining

  
  

  

  
  

  Action plan

  
  To start a homemade burner during testing, I will try to use a purchased propane burner. If you use propane instead of air at the nozzle, you can do without an ignition burner.
  The automation will work like this: the controller opens the gas valve and gives off a spark. When the flame sensor (thermocouple for example) detects the presence of a flame, the ignition is turned off and after a while the oil and air supply is turned on, after which the presence of a flame on the burner is monitored by an optical sensor. As soon as the flame starts to flicker steadily, the gas to the ignition burner is shut off. A temperature sensor will also be installed, and after overheating above the critical temperature, the Babington burner will turn off, cool, and turn on again.
  The nozzle had to be replaced with a smaller one, it burns a little weaker (otherwise it was impossible to approach). It is possible to implement stepwise power control, for this we make two nozzles with different diameters, one larger than the other. We connect them to two different air valves, and we get three power levels, one nozzle, the second, or both at once.



• Made an igniting burner, peeping at the device at a Chinese burner
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  The Babington burner runs on propane at a pressure of 0.2-1 kg / cm3. Welded to the burner is a tube with an automotive spark plug for attaching the ignition burner and a tube for a flame detector.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  Subtotals

  
  It starts up great, with one spark, burns very steadily, the flame is not blown away. The propane pressure is set low to allow the Babington burner to work in cold weather when the pressure in the cylinder drops to 0.5-1 kg / cm.



• Automation requires sensors. First I pulled the thermocouple out of the discarded boiler.
  

  

  
  

  Also found an infrared phototransistor for the sensor
  

  

As you know, in diesel burners, high pressure fuel is pumped into a nozzle and sprayed through a very small hole.

Unlike diesel fuel, used oil is a much more viscous product that needs to be heated before burning to reduce its viscosity. But mining is prone to the formation of polymer clots and carbon deposits when heated, and also always contains impurities, inclusions and rather large particles of metal and dirt. Therefore, waste oil burners are quite different in design from diesel burners.

First of all, in such universal burners, the fuel is not pumped into a nozzle with a very small hole, but is sucked into a specially designed nozzle by a compressed air stream from an external compressor. At the same time, the diameter of the fuel hole in such a nozzle is much larger and it is less susceptible to clogging.

Burner diagram NORTEC WB

The used oil has a high viscosity, so it is heated in a special tank. The tank is equipped with a thermostat that allows you to change the heating temperature depending on the type of fuel. This ensures the versatility of the fuel burners.

Compressed air from an external compressor, passing at high speed through a special nozzle, creates a vacuum in the fuel line and sucks fuel from the heater tank, while spraying it.
A combustible mixture is created, which is ignited by means of ignition electrodes.

An additional volume of combustion air (secondary air) is supplied by the burner fan in the volume necessary for normal combustion.

Power regulation in burners of this type is carried out by the primary (compressed) air regulator installed on the burner.

Waste oil burner nozzles