How to care for phalaenopsis orchids. Proper cultivation of phalaenopsis orchids at home. How to prune phalaenopsis

The phalaenopsis orchid plant (lat. Phalaenopsis) stands out among other members of the Orchid family for its unpretentiousness. Even a novice grower can grow one of the most popular crops. The flower appeared as a result of breeding development and crossing of several subspecies. Phalaenopsis is widely distributed in southern China, East Asia, Indonesia, Malaysia, New Guinea. At proper care phalaenopsis produces flowers regardless of the season. A flower in its natural environment belongs to epiphytes (grows on other crops). Separate subspecies belong to lithophytes - cultures that can grow on rocks. Phalaenopsis does not have pseudo-bulbs or a characteristic rhizome. The flower belongs to monopodial orchids - plants with one point of growth. The formed stem produces a group of thick, fleshy elliptical leaves and about ten rosette-shaped inflorescences.

Phalaenopsis orchid is the most unpretentious plant of the Orchid family.

Optimal temperature

Phalaenopsis prefers warm conditions indoors. The ideal temperature in winter should be between + 15 and + 18 degrees. In summer, it will be necessary to provide a microclimate in the range from + 21 to 27 degrees. It is not difficult to create such conditions. Therefore, the plant is included in the list of the most popular indoor crops.

Lighting

The Phalaenopsis orchid does not need intense light for vegetative development. It is desirable to grow on the windowsill in the east side of the building. It is necessary to take care of a shaded canopy for windows. scorching in summer Sun rays can burn the plant.

Phalaenopsis does not need intense sunlight.

From mid-December to late February, the plant will need additional sunlight. Fluorescent lamps can provide required level plant lighting.

Irrigation technology

Moisten the soil in the early morning. During the day, the water on the leaves and stems of the Phalaenopsis orchid will have time to evaporate. It is advisable to use distilled or filtered water. The liquid provides rapid drainage of the soil. It is not recommended to use water treated with chemical softeners.

You can water the flower once every 4-7 days, depending on room conditions. Excessive watering leads to stagnation of water in the pot and the formation of a marsh mass. Cultures in water often develop bacterial and fungal diseases. Flowers with evening watering are also susceptible to infection.

Define exact time easy enough to water. You can check the top layer of soil for residual water, inspect the pan or lift the pot. A pot with damp soil is much heavier.

Phalaenopsis transplant

If the roots of a plant in a flower pot become intertwined and displace the medium, the soil should be changed immediately. The plant needs more capacity. It is necessary to transplant a flower every 18-24 months.

It is necessary to transplant an orchid every one and a half or two years.

During transplanting, you will need to change the soil to sphagnum moss, fir bark or a special soil mixture for orchids.

The pot should be chosen 2.5 cm wider than used. The earth needs to be slightly moistened. It is not recommended to fill the mixture with water.

Since phalaenopsis is an epiphyte, a natural clay pot should be used for better air circulation. It is necessary to consider options for products with side holes and drains in the bottom of the tank.

To transplant a flower you will need:

1. Carefully pull the Phalaenopsis out of the pot.
2. Carefully rid the flower of the remnants of the mixture.
3. Trim dead or rotting roots.
4. Place drainage at the bottom of the lower part of the new container.
5. Fill with soil mixture.
6. Evenly place the plant in a pot, provided that the base of the bottom sheet should be on the surface of the soil.
7. Add a small amount of the mixture on top.
8. Level the surface. It is necessary to perform the procedure with extreme caution so as not to damage the aerial roots.
9. Watering should be moderate.
10. Fertilizer can be applied no earlier than a month later.

Plant cleaning and pruning

The life cycle of indoor orchid inflorescences can be two to four months. After that, the phalaenopsis needs to save energy for the formation of further leaves, buds and the development of the root system.

For the formation of new buds for the second time during the year, it is necessary to cut the stem at the end of the flowering cycle.

To preserve the decorative effect, the orchid should be cut off periodically.

Other types of pruning, such as root cleaning or leaf removal, will help ensure best care for phalaenopsis.

Pruning stems

Prune shoots should be exclusively mature representatives of orchids. The minimum flower height should be about 30 cm. Phalaenopsis should be cleaned at the end of flowering until new buds are formed.

Use a clean, sharp knife or garden shears. The top of the stem should be cut 2.5 cm above the triangular node area.

By pruning, you can stimulate the orchid to produce new shoots that will re-bloom in 3-4 months.

Removing leaves

Phalaenopsis leaves may develop yellowing or black spots caused by fungal, bacterial diseases, over-fertilization and watering with hard water. Disinfected tools should be used to remove part of the affected leaves.

root cleansing

Pruning the roots of the Phalaenopsis orchid will help vegetative development. When transplanting, it is necessary to inspect the culture for the presence of diseased roots. Trim soft or brown roots with clean scissors.

The best time to clean the flower is in late autumn, provided there are no inflorescences.

Phalaenopsis outdoors

1. The temperature at night will not fall below +16 degrees.
2. Phalaenopsis will not be affected by direct sunlight, wind, rain or drafts.
3. While outdoors, you need to regularly monitor the soil. A different amount of watering may be required.
4. After the formation of inflorescences, you should bring the flowerpot back into the room.

IN tropical countries gardeners have the opportunity to grow phalaenopsis on trees.

In its natural habitat, Phalaenopsis grows on trees and rocks.

Citrus fruits, palm trees, horsetails and oaks are chosen as green spaces.

The specifics of growing at home

Soil composition

It is important to use the correct soil for Phalaenopsis. The earth in a pot has a significant impact on providing the orchid's need for liquid.

Compliance with the sealing parameters will ensure good soil drainage and sufficient air circulation.

For the cultivation of phalaenopsis, it is desirable to use soil mixtures containing tree bark.

For epiphytes, it is desirable to use a mixture that contains tree bark. The application of the component will create a growing environment similar to natural habitats.

To prepare the composition at home you will need:

1. Purchase tree bark and water-retaining material (perlite, peat, moss, coco substrate).
2. Mix all the ingredients in a ratio of five to one.
3. As the main component, you can use the bark of mahogany, Douglas spruce, Osmund fern fibers. The material is characterized by increased hardness and allows air to circulate around the roots.
4. Fern fibers should be soaked in water and mixed with sequoia bark 12 hours before planting. The perfect combination - 3: 1.
5. When the bark loses its ability to dry out and the mixture constantly feels raw to the touch, the filler in the pot should be replaced.

Proper Phalaenopsis Care - How to Fertilize

When growing orchids, you should regularly feed the culture. The use of heavy drugs should be avoided. Proper use of chemicals contributes to better development and abundant flowering of phalaenopsis.

For proper feeding technology should be followed:

1. If the substrate in the orchid pot contains bark, it is necessary to prepare a water-soluble fertilizer that belongs to the category 30-10-10 and contains trace elements necessary for initial stage development in the form of a stimulant.
2. In the absence of bark in the soil, it is necessary to use a chemical compound of the 20-20-20 group, which belongs to universal fertilizers and is used at all stages of development.
3. The dosage for phalaenopsis includes 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer per 4.5 liters of water. The solution is stirred with a spoon until the fertilizer is completely dissolved in the liquid.
4. During vegetative development, it will be necessary to apply fertilizer in the form of sprays on the inflorescences every two weeks during the spring and summer period. If Phalaenopsis growth has slowed down, spraying should be reduced to once a month.
5. During the formation of flower buds, it is necessary to switch to a granular fertilizer of the 10-30-20 type. The highest quality bloom enhancer should be mixed with water at a ratio of 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer to 1 liter of water.
6. In late autumn or early winter, you need to stop feeding the orchid.

How to choose a flower pot

The purchase of a container must be taken seriously. Proper care of phalaenopsis involves the use of durable, quality materials.

Choose a container for phalaenopsis carefully. The development of the plant depends on the correct capacity.

The container must meet the following requirements:

1. Provided drainage holes for draining water.
2. Built-in side openings or covers for ventilation.
3. Certified material. Depending on the chosen container - plastic or ceramic, you will need to use a different filler. In plastic containers, an additional component is required - expanded clay granules.
4. In synthetic containers, the soil dries more slowly. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that watering must be reduced. Clay containers are suitable for large plants. Since the manufacturing technology contributes to the retention of tall flowers.

Detailed information about home care can be found in the video:

Diseases, pests and other characteristic orchid problems

Despite the fact that phalaenopsis is one of the most hardy representatives of the orchid, the plant is susceptible to damage by various:

• diseases;
• pests;
• viral infections caused by fungi, bacteria, insects;
• damage during transplantation, with excessive use of fertilizers (salt deposits and leaf burns).

Infectious sources of fungi and bacteria arise mainly due to improper care - incorrect temperature, humidity levels and air ventilation. Roots can be damaged in potting mix by fertilizers or over watering. Leaf scorch causes too much sunlight.

Phalaenopsis is susceptible to disease. The culture prefers relatively high levels of temperature and humidity. As preventive measures, regular decontamination of Phalaenopsis and ensuring sufficient air circulation are required.

The orchid is grown by creating pseudotropical climatic conditions. Pests can infect the plant at any time of the year. Therefore, sterilization and the use of insecticides must be continued in winter period

There are several rules for preserving the decorative effect of orchids from pathogenic microorganisms:

1. It is necessary to sterilize the plants twice a month during the hot season. To do this, it is enough to use mixed chemicals, bactericides, fungicides and pesticides.
2. Microbes most often appear on the affected areas. You need to be extremely careful not to damage the phalaenopsis. For remote and damaged areas of the orchid, you will need to use a special disinfectant.
3. During the period of plant disease, it is undesirable to use preparations with a high nitrogen content.
4. It is not recommended to leave the affected leaves and stems on the orchid. It is necessary to cut and destroy the infected parts of the flower.
5. Water must be removed from the tray. Spilled liquid promotes the growth of microorganisms.
6. Growing on open balcony fraught with damage to the orchid by slugs. Pests cause bacterial diseases.
7. Fallen leaves on the ground can be potential sources of disease. It is necessary to clean the soil in the container.
8. It is not recommended to reuse unglazed pots and containers.
9. Plastic containers will need to be treated with sodium hypochlorite.
10. After the defeat of one orchid, it is necessary to treat all plants located in the room with a systemic fungicide.
11. The use of fertilizers in degraded soils with low pH levels should be avoided. First of all, you need to change the mixture.

Fungal and bacterial spotting

Symptoms of fungal blotch depend on pathogenic microorganisms. Some types of the disease manifest themselves in the form of sunken, yellow spots. Others are initially dark in color. Enterobacterium Erwinia infects the plant through damaged areas. Small, watery spots with yellow halos appear on the leaves.

The infection spreads quickly and the plant may rot within a few days. The bacterial brown spot caused by Pseudomonas aeruginosa expands over time and causes the entire flower to dry out.

For treatment, it is necessary to remove all affected tissues with a sterile cutting tool, spray a fungicide or bactericide on nearby green spaces.

The subsequent occurrence of diseases can be prevented by proper prevention of environmental disinfection, avoidance of evening watering and spraying, as well as increasing air circulation.

rotting

The fungal pathogen Rhizoctonia causes root rot. It is formed by a disease in case of insufficient drainage or excessive watering of the soil. Brown spots appear on the roots. Leaves turn yellow and wrinkle.

If root rot is found, infected roots should be cut off and a protective fungicide applied.

Fusarium molds cause orchid wilt. First of all, the root system is affected. A disease occurs due to the use of non-sterile cutting instruments or a work surface.

The leaves on an infected orchid become thin, yellow and shriveled. As a result, phalaenopsis may die. The cross section of the rhizome will change color to a purple hue. If Phalaenopsis is not severely infected, you can cut off all the affected areas and treat the flower with thiophanate-methyl.

Black rot caused by Pythium, or Phytophthora, often starts in orchid roots and spreads quickly. It appears as a reddish or black shade of roots and leaves.
If there are other orchids in the room, the affected Phalaenopsis will need to be isolated.

The culture can be treated by removing infected tissue with a sterile instrument. It is necessary to water the orchid with a fungicide in accordance with the instructions.

The defeat of the inflorescences

Gray mold caused by the fungus Botrytis is most common on older orchid flowers during cool, damp weather when air circulation around the Phalaenopsis is greatly reduced. Appears as small brown spots on inflorescences that may increase. As the disease spreads, parts of the plant turn pink around the edges.

If conditions favor the development of the disease, a gray mass of spores may appear. The pathogen survives by preserving dead leaves and inflorescences on the soil. It is necessary to avoid raising the temperature mark + 27 degrees in damp conditions.

Need to move the flower to private room, clean the soil of debris and ensure uniform watering of the soil.

Viruses

Tobacco mosaic virus can infect an orchid. The main symptoms are growth retardation, yellowness on leaves and stems, dark spots on inflorescences or buds bloom irregularly shaped.

Viruses cannot be treated, so it is very important to avoid infecting other orchids. Old plants are most vulnerable to infection, which is transmitted by division, pruning, transplanting or other processing.

Infected Phalaenopsis should be isolated and destroyed and instruments should be disinfected between incisions using thermal treatments, alcohol preparations, or chemical sterilizers.

The defeat of phalaenopsis by a bacterial disease.

spider mite

The pest causes serious crop damage. The insect reproduces within a short time. Mite colonies appear on the underside of leaves regardless of the season.

Favorable conditions for the pest are hot and relatively dry conditions. The first sign of damage is the absence of the characteristic shine of the leaves. After contact, reddish marks may remain on the hands. The size of the pests is only 0.2-0.4 mm.

Ticks can get into the room on the grower's clothes or shoes. Insects carry viruses, so you should immediately get rid of pests.

When using a masticide, it must be taken into account that repeated use of the drug will not give a result. The tick develops resistance to the masticide. Therefore, several different acaricides should be prepared and used during the rotation period.

Spider mite on phalaenopsis leaves appears in a room with warm and dry air.

Ticks

Ticks of the Acarina group (Tyrophagus neiswanderi) can damage Phalaenopsis. If flower buds fall off or inflorescences wither at an early stage, the culture is infected with Acarina.

Distinguishing pests from spider mites is easy. Acarina grows well in an environment with high temperature and humidity, while the spider mite prefers dry air.

Slugs and snails

Phalaenopsis is rarely attacked by molluscs. Pests practically do not appear on balconies or indoors. If shiny, slimy marks appear on a pot, bench or window, this means that slugs and snails can damage the flower.

To get rid of pests, you need to apply aldehyde in the form of a liquid or granules around the plant area.

Shchitovka

The culture is attacked by two similar forms of pests - scale insects and false shields. It is possible to distinguish the scale insect on the basis of a dense upper cover and a convex structure.

You can notice insects on the leaves in the form of brown or yellow tubercles. Shchitovka eats inflorescences and leaves characteristic astringent traces on the plant. Rot and fungal spores often appear on the liquid.

The flower should be sprayed with fitoverm. The procedure must be repeated in a week.

Mealybug

An oblong insect hides in the root zone. Sucks out the vital juices of the culture. You can notice the lesion at the stage of yellowing and wilting of the plant. The soil should be treated with an insecticide.

whitefly

Phalaenopsis can be damaged by both a butterfly and a larva. The plant stops growing, the foliage turns yellow and begins to dry out.

You can get rid of pests with insecticidal soap or fitoverm solution.

Aphid

Laundry soap and insecticides will help to destroy pests.

Nematodes

Small worms feed on the useful components of the orchid. Phalaenopsis can stop developing and die.

For treatment, you can use a decaris tablet or treatment hot water. You should be extremely careful not to harm the plant. The temperature should not be higher than +40 degrees. The duration of the procedure is no more than 30 minutes.

Phalaenopsis and allergies

Pollen does not cause allergic reactions. There are people who are sensitive to the juice of culture. Contact with the plant may cause a skin rash in the form of dermatitis.

Phalaenopsis bloom does not cause allergic reactions.

An inflammatory reaction to a flower is a short-term phenomenon. Without antihistamines, soreness and itching of the affected area may occur.

It is advisable to use disposable gloves when handling the plant and wash hands thoroughly after each contact with the flower.

Phalaenopsis breeding methods

The culture can be grown with the help of children, seeds, cuttings and division.

Phalaenopsis from seeds

Growing technology includes:

It will take about 1 year to grow an orchid. But a young culture, depending on the variety, can bloom even after 10 years.

cuttings

With the help of stem cuttings, it is possible to grow several crops with the characteristics of the mother plant. For this you will need:

Division

You can also grow an orchid using the socket division method. The method is the least popular. You will need an adult, healthy culture with a large group of leaves. There must be at least six of them in the outlet.

Separate the socket directly. To do this, use a sterile knife. First, cut off the top of the inflorescence. The segment should contain several aerial roots and leaves. Affected areas should be treated with a disinfectant or ash.

The stem must be planted in a separate container with a complex mixture (moss and pine bark). The bark should be dried first. Otherwise, it may appear fungal disease. You need to choose a small container. When planting, leave three leaves at the base.

Caring for a planted shoot does not differ from the specifics of growing an adult phalaenopsis. After 2 months, new kidneys will appear on the maternal representative. They will form green shoots.

The roots of the planted delenka, as a rule, will appear in a few weeks. A new phalaenopsis will bloom in 3 years.

Reproduction by children

You can also grow a culture with the help of children. For this, several points should be taken into account:

1. The culture should be healthy with developed roots and large leaves.
2. The stem, which should be no more than one and a half years old, must be cut to a dormant bud.
3. To speed up the process, a sharp temperature drop should be provided. At night about + 16 degrees. The next day - + 28 + 30 degrees.
4. Mandatory growth factor - high humidity.
5. Phalaenopsis should not be watered for about two weeks.
6. Dry conditions should be applied indoors without direct sunlight. Otherwise, the phalaenopsis will die.
7. The color of the leaves should be observed. Bright green - indicate a sufficient amount of moisture. After the formation of a silvery sheen, you need to wait a few days and then water the culture. The brown root system occurs due to excessive watering.
8. The water temperature should be several degrees higher than that of the air in the room.
9. Will need to provide artificial lighting. In total, Phalaenopsis must be exposed to sunlight for at least 13 hours a day.
10. You can plant children in a separate container after the formation of at least one root. Some flower growers recommend picking young phalaenopsis before roots form. In their opinion, four leaves are enough for independent growth.
11. After separation, you need to treat the affected areas with crushed cinnamon root. During the day, dry new plants.
12. Next, you can prepare the soil in a new container and plant the kids.
13. Yellow leaves are not recommended. After the depletion of all nutrients, they will fall off on their own. By this time Phalaenopsis will have matured roots.

Why is the orchid not blooming?

Phalaenopsis expends a lot of energy to create large, beautiful flowers. After flowering, the plant enters a dormant period. Culture can rest and replace nutrients consumed during long flowering.

Useful components are found in the leaves of the plant until they are needed for growth and flowering. Rest usually lasts 6 to 9 months. The culture can then re-bloom on its own. But sometimes phalaenopsis need a little stimulation.

To cause the subsequent formation of buds, you will need:

1. When the plant stops flowering, you need to start feeding weekly with half the dosage of a complex fertilizer for a houseplant category 20-20-20.
2. To stimulate phalaenopsis once a week, you need to water the culture with 3 ice cubes.
3. You will need to move the culture to a cooler place before the formation of new inflorescences.
4. After the formation of buds, you can return the flowerpot to the previous room and continue moistening the soil with ice.

How to choose a culture

Phalaenopsis can be purchased as seeds. For a package with three seeds, you need to pay about 100 rubles.

Grown phalaenopsis can be purchased on flower growers' forums.

Phalaenopsis "Pompeii" (multiflora) with two trunks is sold on average at a price of 1600 rubles. The height with the pot is about 55 cm. The diameter of the container is 12 cm.

On garden sites and forums, you can find discounted offers for children ranging from 80 to 100 rubles.

Growing phalaenopsis on your own is easy. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations and a wonderful plant will all year round delight with its decorative flowering.

phalaenopsis orchid- one of the most famous and brightest representatives of her family, who was very fond of our flower growers. Most orchids grow in the humid equatorial and tropical forests of Africa, Australia and the Philippine ridge, as well as in Southeast Asia. Of all its relatives, phalaenopsis is the easiest to care for, therefore it easily took root on our windowsills.

During the Great geographical discoveries Europeans were happy to master not only new types of spices, delicacies and precious metals, but also flowers. Why are only Dutch tulips! Our homemade phalaenopsis orchid comes from the spicy Moluxy Islands, where it was first studied in the wild by the German naturalist Georg Rumph. But it owes its name, which in Latin means “butterfly”, to Karl Blum, who headed the work of the botanical garden in Leiden.

In the wild, most orchids are epiphytes - that is, they grow on trees, taking nutrients from the air through a developed system of aerial roots. Trees, stones, sod-podzolic soils consisting of large fractions are their favorite habitats. When buying phalaenopsis in a store, you probably noticed that the composition of the substrate in which this phalaenopsis orchid grows is very different visually from the usual humus soil on which most flowers grow.

So, an exotic beauty, although unpretentious, requires several simple rules cultivation. If everything is in order with this, she will delight you with lush flowering more than once a year.

Phalaenopsis orchid care at home

Like all tropical flowers, phalaenopsis has its own care requirements. Most of them are connected with the fact that for him it is necessary to try as much as possible to reproduce the natural conditions of growth - the conditions of a humid tropical jungle. The orchid has its own interesting features:

Part of the roots belongs to the wandering air type, therefore home phalaenopsis, if not followed, can easily “crawl” into a neighboring pot.

Since phalaenopsis initially grow in a climate in which there is no pronounced cold period, they do not have a special need for an anabiosis phase or a dormant period. They bloom 2 times a year, subject to simple care standards, and some especially persistent flower growers get even 3 blooms from their pets.

Dense leaves are located in a basal rosette in 2 rows, flower stalks are long and curved. If the flower receives good nutrition, then the inflorescences are large, racemose, the leaves and petals are juicy. The color palette is simply amazing - there are just no colors:

• purple;
• light lilac;
• snow-white;
• orange-green;
• orange.

Often a flower is built on the principle of contrast: the lip is a long base, has one color, and its petals are another.

Lighting

Very often, the fiasco in the cultivation of phalaenopsis is associated precisely with the choice of the wrong lighting. This factor is extremely important for all flowering and deciduous plants, since the access of light provides the plant with the key process of photosynthesis, during which carbon dioxide is split into water and oxygen. To understand exactly what conditions phalaenopsis needs, you need to remember the conditions of its habitat. The tropical selva, forming a dense dome over low-growing plants, does not let a large amount of light down, but heat and evaporation create the necessary microclimate.

In the conditions of a home window sill, the plant will need a little more light, it is quite possible to place it on the south side, but still monitor the light intensity. If it is too bright, the plant will signal a change in leaf color. Ideally, they are a bright green juicy shade.

Darkening will indicate a lack of lighting, but the appearance of whitish spots, or redness, will indicate that the light is too bright. By the way, phalaenopsis belongs to the group of orchids that like to have a lot of light, but when placing a flower on a brightly lit window sill, do not forget to monitor the condition of the leaves. If something is wrong, the flower will signal this.

Particularly advanced flower growers help plants with lamps. In this case, it is better to use fluorescent lamps of cold white and warm white spectra. The former provide short blue wavelengths that stimulate photosynthesis and growth, while the latter provide short red wavelengths that create a microclimate during flowering. At the same time, you should not use incandescent lamps - they give too much red waves, this can cause burns.

IMPORTANT! A little life hack - as you grow, you should also raise the lamp up so that the leaves and inflorescences do not fall under too close exposure to heat waves.

Temperature

In the wild, Phalaenopsis orchids prefer to keep the temperature at 22 degrees, and the maximum temperature of the cold period does not fall below 7-10. The fact is that in the tropics the cold season is the period of rains, when the temperature drops by no more than 3-4 degrees. Phalaenopsis prefer more or less even temperature regime and our seasonal races are unacceptable to them.

Phalaenopsis belong to the warm temperature group. The maximum allowable temperature range for them is from 25 - 28 degrees on a summer day and 15 - 18 on a winter night. Daily fluctuations should not exceed 3 - 6 degrees, therefore, if you turn off the heating at night in winter, it is better to leave the orchid in a place where heat exchange is not so intense and the temperature drops slowly. How long and intensively the orchid will bloom depends on how correctly you choose the temperature regime.

Air humidity

This factor is perhaps the most important for orchids, because in their homeland - in tropical forests, it can sometimes be from 80 to 100%. With a lack of moisture in the air, you can compensate for the lack of spraying, but it is important not to overdo it, otherwise the orchid can easily rot.

As we have already said, orchids are epiphytes, accustomed to do without a moist substrate, and the humidity of the air from which they take moisture has for them great importance. But even in case the flow of moisture suddenly dries up, orchids have reliable defense mechanisms - for example, a waxy layer that covers the leaves and roots, protecting them from excessive evaporation, and the porosity of the roots, which take everything from the air required amount moisture.

Phalaenopsis have a special daily regime - in case there is not enough moisture. The leaves have microscopic holes - stomata for absorbing carbon dioxide. During the day they are closed, which prevents the evaporation of moisture, but at night they open when evaporation is minimal.

For potted plants, it is enough to get moisture from the substrate. But for plants that are grown on blocks of bark or tied up, air humidity is very important. It can be increased by spraying or using electronic humidifiers, decorative fountains. Spraying should be carried out regularly, and preferably - not in the midday heat, but in the morning or evening, more intensively - if the orchid stands near a radiator, heater or central heating battery.

Watering

Among the owners of orchids there is no consensus on how to properly water. There are 3 main ways:

• Watering with a thin stream from above using the shower method;
• watering in a pot with constant immersion in water;
• brief immersion in water.

The first method is not only not effective enough, but also unsafe for the plant. When water is poured in a thin stream over the substrate, the latter does not have time to absorb moisture, which it could then give to the plant. It simply evaporates, and the rest flows into the saucer. It turns out that the roots are not saturated with moisture evenly - the upper ones dry out, and the lower ones, constantly being in water, rot, and the plant may die.

It is better to water the plant by immersion once a week. In pre-prepared and settled water at room temperature, it is possible with the addition of fertilizer for orchids, the pots are immersed for 10 - 15 minutes, until completely saturated. In the hot season, you can repeat the procedure several times a week.

The leaves of the plant serve as indicators of the correctness of watering. With an excess of moisture, swelling and decay appear on the leaves. It is impossible to cure them, you need to trim the damage to healthy tissue.

top dressing

Often flower growers mistakenly believe that the more intensively they feed orchids, the longer and more often they will bloom. However, fertilizing and feeding phalaenopsis is not always in favor of the plant:

• If the plant was just bought and brought home, it is not worth transplanting and feeding it. The substrate is nothing more than a fulcrum, and the supply of nutrients can be enough for more than 2 to 3 years.
• You can not feed the plant during the flowering period. From greenhouses to store shelves, orchids are supplied blooming, before that they are intensively fed in nurseries, and if you add top dressing at home, the inflorescences and buds will quickly fall off, because the plant will begin to “prepare” for the next phase of flowering.
• For newly transplanted, diseased or weakened plants, top dressing is also not suitable. They require professional treatment, and for this there are a number of other drugs.

What to feed? Orchids need nitrogen, calcium and phosphorus to grow properly. During the period of cultivation of the vegetative mass, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is needed; phosphorus and calcium are needed for the full laying of peduncles and budding.

It is especially important to initially give the plant a large amount of phosphorus, which is responsible for the processes of respiration, photosynthesis, growth and metabolism. If you do not ensure its stable inflow, it will be difficult to compensate for the shortage. It is phosphorus that provides lush flowering, and for a full-fledged nitrogen exchange, you need a lot of potassium.

Feeding is worth every 2 weeks, after soaking the roots. Immerse the phalaenopsis pot in water for 10 minutes, then add fertilizer and soak for 20 minutes.

What to do with phalaenopsis immediately after purchase

If you bought phalaenopsis in a specialized store where it was looked after and prepared for sale properly, then no resuscitation will have to be carried out. But in most stores, unfortunately, they use temporary containers for flowers, in which they cannot grow for a long time. The flower will have to be transplanted if:

• The orchid does not stand alone in a pot due to a mismatch in size;
• there is too little substrate in the pot, and the orchid “dangles” in it;
• if the orchid's roots are damaged.

In any case, you should first try to put the flower in a heavy glass pot and do without a transplant, at least until the flowering period has passed.

The most common types

Despite the fact that phalaenopsis is often considered a separate plant species, under this designation a whole family of orchids has united, which are the least whimsical and suitable for growing them at home. This class has about 70 varieties that attract the grower with luxurious inflorescences and a wealth of colors. Today, on the shelves of flower shops, you can most often find varieties:

• Amabilis;
• Schiller;
• Stuart;
• Sander;
• Giant;
• Deer-horned;
• Hieroglyphic;
• Ambonian;
• Pink;
• Parish;
• Horse;
• Luddemann;
• Mini mark;
• Amsterdam.

In addition to those mentioned, variegated phalaenopsis and phalaenopsis with a special aroma, as well as intergeneric hybrids - blue, blue and pelorics, enjoy the love of buyers.

Bloom

It's no secret that we love orchids for the beauty they give us with their blooms. And if the purchased flower does not bloom for a long time, or gives too small and faded inflorescences, this is disappointing. Let's try to figure out why phalaenopsis does not bloom, and how to stimulate flowering. phalaenopsis, life cycle which is 7 - 10 years old, blooms under normal conditions 1 - 2 times a year, and the flowering period is from 2 to 6 months. In any case, the orchid should bloom at least once a year.

Why phalaenopsis does not bloom

As mentioned above, the main condition for flowering is proper care. If the conditions of care are violated, flowering is disturbed. Phalaenopsis flower stalks disappear if:

• Phalaenopsis watering is wrong - the roots do not have time to dry out. For phalaenopsis, it is important to have a stable constant source of moisture, and not an excess of it.
• There is a violation of the temperature regime. For normal flowering, it is important for phalaenopsis to ensure a daily and seasonal temperature difference in the range of no more than 3 - 4 degrees.
• There is a re-fertilization. Due to incorrect dosage, useful substances often “drive” the plant into growth, but there is simply not enough strength for forcing flower stalks and budding.

How to make it bloom

• Do not create stress for the plant by rearranging - do not change its location;
• buy plants aged 1.5 - 3 years, they are ready to bloom; younger plants should gain sufficient vegetative mass;
• create conditions so that enough light reaches the photosynthetic roots of the plant, if not natural source, buy a fluorescent lamp in the "cold white" or "warm blue" range;
• ensure temperature difference.

If you want to outwit a flower and force it to bloom again, create a stressful situation for it: move it to another place, stop watering, create a sharp temperature drop. The phalaenopsis will have a “population conservation” mechanism, and it will most likely re-bloom.

After flowering

After flowering, the peduncle should be cut off - it will take nutrients from the plant. Toward the end of flowering, the stalk will take on a waxy hue - usually this period can last from 1 to 6 months. After all the inflorescences fall off, the leg will begin to dry out and after that it can be safely cut off.

Transfer

Above, we have already considered cases when an orchid needs to be transplanted, and when not. If phalaenopsis transplant needed - it is important to do the procedure correctly so that the flower takes root and feels good “in a new place”.

• To easily separate the subtrates and roots from the pots, you need to hold it in a bath of warm water for several minutes. It is worth transplanting a plant only at rest, otherwise it may simply drop the inflorescences. For transplantation, it is worthwhile to prepare the substrate in advance, a plastic planter, Activated carbon, pruner or knife.
• After softening, we take out the orchid from the pot, clean the roots of the remnants of the substrate, rinse, cut off the rotten or dry roots, put them on a napkin and let them dry for about 20 minutes.
• After drying, the cut off places of the roots should be lightly powdered with activated charcoal previously crushed in a mortar.
• We insert the roots vertically into the pot and slowly begin to fill the substrate. It is better not to use the old one - even if there are no visible signs that the substrate is damaged, anyway - it can contain bacteria and fungi organisms, mold.
• The pot should be lightly tapped on the walls so that the bark is immediately rammed and there are as few voids as possible between the particles of the substrate.
• After transplanting, the plant must be watered and placed in a warm and bright place. But never in direct sunlight.

reproduction

Orchids are divided into two main types - sympodial and monopodial. The first have several points of growth, the second - one. Depending on the type to which the plant belongs, you can choose the most convenient way breeding orchids at home:

• The division of the bush (in sympodial species) after the end of flowering and the dormant phase;
• cuttings - in monopodial, in the spring;
• cut peduncle after flowering;
• child sockets;
• seeds.

Diseases and their treatment

Like all plants, phalaenopsis are also susceptible to a number of specific diseases that can be caused by pests, fungi and bacteria. Each of them requires special treatment. chemicals and care procedures. And for correct selection means of struggle it is necessary to correctly "diagnose" the disease.

Fusarium

In 99% of cases with orchids, infectious fusarium is caused by specific fungi that reproduce by conidia. If you notice pink, white, reddish balls on the roots and base of plants, it's time to start countermeasures. The disease affects the roots, they begin to rot, and the plant dies. Fusarium occurs if:

• The substrate does not dry out periodically, and at high humidity, a low temperature is kept inside it;
• the substrate is oversalted;
• the substrate contains too much peat or foam.

To treat Fusarium, isolate the plant, cut off the affected areas and dry the roots and substrate thoroughly.

Hives

In conditions of high humidity and poor ventilation, orchid leaves are often affected by hives - these are yellow-brown spots up to 3 mm in diameter, which quickly cover the entire plant. It is impossible to save the affected areas, but you can prevent the spread of the disease if you equalize the conditions of detention.

Botrytis

Botrytis is a fungus that provokes the development of gray mold and spotting on the leaves. The fungus actively multiplies in damp and warm air, affects those weakened by poor care or plant transplantation. Botrytis affects not only leaves, but also flowers. Fungicide treatment is ineffective unless affected leaves and flowers are selected and trimmed.

Pests and control methods

Despite the exotic origin, orchids relished our pests. If you do not identify them in time, do not isolate the affected plant and do not start sanitizing it, the lesion can lead to the death of the orchid.

Slugs

The class of snails and slugs has over 75,000 species. Fortunately, only a few representatives of this group are capable of harming orchids. On phalaenopsis in conditions of high humidity, you can most often find:

• Reticulated and striped slugs;
• Opeas pumilum;
• Oxychilus draparnaud
• Rounded snail.

Their danger lies in the fact that slugs scrape real holes in the leaves and stems with their radula. The areas become thinner, the tissues in this place die off. You can fight them by hand-picking, replanting the plant, and of course - by treating them with chemicals.

spider mite

A dangerous pest for phalaenopsis is a spider mite. It feeds on the sap of the plant, but during the "bite" a specific substance, which is produced by the glands of the spider, enters the cell. It destroys the membranes, the leaf eventually becomes covered with silvery spots and dies.

by the most effective tool spider prevention is periodic watering with a hot shower, and also treatment with a solution of Neem tree oil. In addition to the fact that the larvae die during processing, it also strengthens the immunity of the orchid.

thrips

Traces of this inconspicuous insect can be identified by the appearance of excrement - small black dots, and characteristic "strokes" - whitish stripes on the leaves, spreading in different directions. Thrips are illegible, they settle both on flowers and on leaves, but mainly on the back side. There are more than 7,000 species of thrips in the world, but they can be easily removed by treatment with systemic insecticides.

Shchitovki

The shield is easy to see, even if it lives on the back of the sheet. This insect has a strong brown shell, feeds on the juice of the plant, due to which it depletes the leaves and stems. It is quite difficult to get rid of scale insects, and often its young larvae are invisible in the substrate. Therefore, before you put a plant just bought in a store in the thick of your flower garden, it is better to quarantine it.

Mealybug

Getting rid of mealybugs on orchids is perhaps the hardest thing to do. This is possible only if the leaves and sinuses of the plant are treated with an enteric-contact insecticide. The mealybug lays larvae deep in rosettes of leaves, outwardly they resemble dirty cotton wool.

These insects feed on the juice of the plant, but during contact, their digestive enzymes get inside the plant and disrupt the metabolic processes inside it. The orchid weakens and, if left untreated, may die.

How to crop

Phalaenopsis often have to be cut - during transplantation, cuttings or removal of dried flower stalks. Since the vegetative body of an orchid is saturated with bearing vessels and quite juicy, it is important to know how correct pruning phalaenopsis orchids.

How to cut a peduncle

We have already mentioned above that trim the flower stalk of an orchid stands after flowering. It is important to wait until it dries completely, and the base turns yellow. Then you need to cut it off completely, only leave a small process 1.5–2 cm high near the outlet. last kidney.

How to cut roots

It is important to understand that hanging roots for an orchid are normal. In epiphytes, part of the roots necessarily protrude beyond the base of the plant, because they must take nutrients from the air. But if the roots rot or dry out, are affected by pests, and it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning of orchid roots, certain rules must be observed:

• Trim the roots a few millimeters from living tissue;
• wipe the cut points with crushed activated carbon;
• when pruning, treat with fungicides, dry the roots and substrate.

Which attract the attention of flower growers with their stunning views, long flowering and beauty.

But, in order to get all this from the Orchid, you need to learn how to care for it in the right way, since it is very demanding to care for.

If you don't follow certain rules, Orchid may die without having time to please their owners with a wonderful flowering.

In order for your plant to actively develop and grow the vegetative part, it needs to create ideal conditions for maintenance.

Therefore, it is very important for this plant to choose the optimal soil and provide it with proper watering.

Orchid care at home

Types and description of flowers

The most common orchid species is the Phalaenopsis. This species is viable for our climate and is not unpretentious. Very graceful flowers, reminiscent of butterflies, have a wide range of colors: red, blue, yellow, purple, etc.

Read also: How to care for a Cyclamen flower at home

orchid dendrobium extremely beautiful and gentle. This is a heat-loving species that prefers diffused lighting. Its flowering, as a rule, occurs for a very long time. But the requirements for this species are also increasing.

Orchid Cattleya- This is another popular species that has large flowers that exude, unlike other species of relatives, a stunning aroma. Cattleya is considered the most capricious flower of the Orchid genus. Before you get yourself this beauty, it is recommended to carefully familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for her.

Orchid Vanda- a true queen. In the wild, this plant grows with a bare root system, feeding mainly on air. The source of moisture for this luxurious beauty is fogs and rains. Mineral fertilizers she gets from bird droppings.

In her homeland, the climate is such, where the humidity is 100%, so she does not need top dressing and any specific soil.

Adaptation after the store

Orchid very picky about location. Even the slightest movement of a flower usually causes it to drop its buds or begin to wilt.

First of all, the plant brought from the store must be quarantined. This means that for about two weeks a new plant needs to be placed in a different place from the neighborhood with home flowers.

Better not to put Orchid on the window sill, strongly lit by the sun. Direct sunlight may not affect adaptation in the best way. Try to find a place where the flower is well lit, but not exposed to direct sun. For this, a bedside table located near the window, or any other surface, is suitable.

Read also: How to care for a Decembrist (Schlumbergera) flower at home

It is necessary to wait until the plant is fully adapted and only after that you can add various top dressings.

Don't try to water Orchid, because in stores they always create additional moisture for flowers.

Careful observation of the roots and the plant itself is enough for you in order to determine in time whether there are pests on it. If any are found, all measures must be taken immediately to eliminate them.

Pot selection

flower pot Orchid must necessarily have drainage holes through which excess moisture will successfully exit. The pot is best purchased transparent. This way it will be easier to determine the states of the root system orchids and degree of soil moisture.

It is better not to use ceramic pots, since the roots of the plant can quickly grow into inner surface pot.

If you don’t really like the look of a plastic transparent pot, then you can additionally put it in another pot with a larger ceramic or glass container.

Lighting and temperature conditions

Exactly right orchid lighting is the key to healthy leaves and long flowering. If the flower experiences insufficient lighting, then its leaves will be lifeless and pale.

If the flower is exposed to active and harmful sunlight, then in the near future the leaves will fall off and the plant will most likely die.

Lighting Rules

* The flower loves exceptionally diffused light. A good location for it would be a window sill on the north side.

* IN summer period the plant must be removed from the windowsill or in any way to limit its exposure to sunlight. Use a matte film for this purpose by sticking it directly on the glass.

* For orchids It is very important to observe the duration of daylight hours at 12 hours. In winter, for this reason, it is necessary to create additional lighting for the flower. A luminaire with a fluorescent lamp is very suitable for this purpose.

* In order for your Orchid bloomed for a long time without ceasing, choose the optimal temperature regime for it. This is the whole secret of long flowering in this flower. Some flower growers even begin to be wary of such long flower periods.

* Most types orchids very suitable growing conditions in the climate of our area. Most importantly, try to ensure the difference between night and day temperatures. To do this, in the summer the flower can be taken out to the balcony. In winter, when the pot with the plant is on the windowsill, this will be quite enough, since at night it will always be somewhat colder near the window. Thus, the natural temperature difference will be maintained.

Proper watering and fertilizing

An integral part of caring orchids is proper watering. Therefore, it should be treated very responsibly and carefully, trying to comply with certain conditions:

Water the flower should be plentiful, but not often. For irrigation, you need to use warm water at room temperature or a few degrees higher.

Orchid it is best to spray and water in the morning.

When watering, water should not fall on the flowers themselves, otherwise they will completely lose their attractiveness and begin to fade quickly.

Read also: How to care for a flower Christmas star (poinsettia)

When watering the plant, make sure that water does not stagnate in the center of the flower, as well as in the axils of its leaves.

Excess water must be completely removed from the pot.

In order to feed Orchid fertilizers, usually special complex additives are used, which are sold in flower shops.

It must be borne in mind that in different periods flowers need minerals for their life. For example, they really need nitrogen during the period of vegetative development.

At the time of budding at the flower, and when inflorescences are formed during flowering, it is necessary to increase the addition of phosphorus and potassium.

During the dormant period, when Orchid has faded, it is also necessary to take care of it, but just do not need to fertilize its soil.

Reproduction by offspring stems

Offspring, or in other words, little kids, are new small plants. Usually such shoots are formed where there is a high nitrogen content.

As soon as you notice such side shoots on your plant, immediately start spraying them often with a spray bottle. Do this until small roots appear on the process.

As soon as this happened, feel free to separate the baby from the mother flower. Then the baby should be treated with charcoal and can be planted in a separate transparent pot.

Reproduction by layering

Only in horizontally growing orchids withdrawals may be observed. They, as a rule, appear in those types of flowers, the shoots of which have a somewhat elongated shape, resembling some kind of cylinders.

First you need to awaken the layering. To do this, over that part of the flower where the buds formed, you will need to build a small home greenhouse, for example, from a plastic cup. In order to increase the humidity in the greenhouse, you need to constantly spray it.

After about a month of being in moisture and warmth, the buds will begin to awaken and new plants will appear from them, which will have their own roots and leaves. All that remains is to separate them from the mother bush, process and plant in a separate pot. The first time they can be kept in a greenhouse. This will strengthen young plants well.

Vegetative propagation method

Different types and varieties of any plants have the ability to reproduce through vegetation. For this, the rhizome of the plant is divided into many parts so that each part has two pseudobulbs. The roots of a young plant should not be divided. For this purpose, only the rhizomes of adult plants are suitable.

We need to carefully get Orchid from a pot, carefully shake off the earth from the roots and cut the root into several parts. It is best to use garden shears for this action. The resulting sections must be treated with charcoal. Each part of the future independent plant should be seated in separate transparent containers. Fresh orchids you need to constantly spray from the spray bottle and water. When you see the appearance of new shoots and leaves, watering with spraying should be stopped, as the plant has already taken over.

The fact is that in stores orchids are grown in specific conditions.. The main task of sellers is to buy a plant. Therefore, it should be presentable in appearance: large, with abundant green turgor and, preferably, flowering.

To achieve this, fertilizing is used, the plant is watered abundantly, planted on sphagnum moss, sometimes there is a frank deception: blue colored orchids. Paint is injected into the white peduncle, and you get an “exotic” bright blue orchid, which does not exist in nature either.

ADVICE: It is better to buy an orchid not in a beautiful ceramic, but in an ordinary plastic pot. So you immediately make sure that the roots are not rotted and not broken.

Besides, an orchid in a store usually does not have access to natural light, but instead illuminated by phytolamps. But the temperature regime and the necessary humidity are provided - and at home it will take time to create ideal conditions for the plant.

So, the plant was purchased and arrived home, sharply changing one microclimate to another. What seems insignificant to us: a change in temperature by a few degrees, a decrease or increase in humidity and the amount of light, is very significant for an orchid. In the near future, it will adapt to the changed environment. This is called the adaptation period.

It passes quite frighteningly: the plant sheds buds and flowers that have already blossomed, the leaves may begin to wither and dry, or turn yellow in places. There is no need to panic and think that phalaenopsis is gone: this is a normal adaptation process.

It is important to help the plant successfully cope with it. To do this, create a “quarantine zone” for it, placing it away from other house plants. This will protect the rest of the flowers from pests that may be in the new flower, from its diseases. The period of adaptation and isolation of the flower will be about three weeks..

What to do first?

1. To begin with, carefully examine the orchid for pests and diseases. If there is a suspicion that the flower is sick with something, do not rush to start treatment. Wait a couple of weeks and let it get stronger after the move.
2. Look at the bark. Very often in stores, the top layer of the bark in which the orchid grows covers white coating. It is poisonous to the plant, you need to throw out all such pieces.
3. Check if there are drainage holes in the pot and if there are enough of them. If not, they need to be urgently done, and an orchid transplant is not necessary. Heat a nail and pierce the pot right with the orchid in it. The main thing is not to damage the roots. Drainage holes in an orchid pot should be located not only at the bottom, but also on the walls of the pot.

ATTENTION: The purchased orchid must be immediately placed in the place chosen for it and not moved or moved in the future.

Do not rush to water and fertilize the plant after buying it in the store. Watering should be no more than 1 time per week, and top dressing and growth stimulants during the addiction period can only do harm.

Also, do not cut sluggish and yellowed sheets: they will either come to life themselves after a period of adaptation, or fall off on their own, after giving it to the orchid vitality which she needs now.

Do you need a transplant indoor flower right after the store or not? On this score, serious disputes flare up between experienced flower growers. Proponents of transplantation cite as arguments a possible danger to the orchid:

A transplant can also harm a flower.:

• Orchids are usually bought blooming, and during the flowering period, a plant can only be transplanted as a last resort.
• Any, even planned, transplantation is stress for the plant, and here it is also multiplied by stress from adaptation.

How to proceed? Focus on the fact that phalaenopsis does not like to be touched. If the orchid has a healthy appearance, the leaves are green, elastic, without black spots, the aerial roots are not damaged, and rot is not visible on the roots and neck, then the transplant will wait. It is better to spend it when bright green tips appear on the roots. This will mean that the orchid has fully adapted and started to grow.

But there are situations when a transplant is absolutely necessary:

1. The pot is small, it turns over under the weight of the plant, there is almost no soil left in the dishes, all the roots have been forced out. It is especially dangerous if the small roots break out of the pot and begin to braid it. In the future, they will intertwine into a tight hydrophobic sponge, and the orchid will die without water, and it will be difficult to unravel such a lump without significant damage to the roots.
2. The roots are corrupted: they are dry, or vice versa, softened and rotting. In this case, only an emergency transplant can save the orchid, with the removal of all rot. Tip: if the plant is blooming at this moment, the peduncle must be cut off.

IMPORTANT: A few days after transplanting, watering is strictly prohibited.

ATTENTION: When watering, water should not fall on the growing point. If this happens, immediately wipe off the moisture, otherwise the phalaenopsis will rot.

We talked more about how and how to water phalaenopsis during flowering and after transplantation.

Watch a video about the first watering of an orchid after a transplant:

How to be further?

Most likely, the purchased phalaenopsis is either already blooming or will bloom soon. While flowering is in progress, it is enough to keep the plant in partial shade and water it every 3-4 days.

After flowering, the arrow must be cut off. The pot is again rearranged to the light, watering is slightly reduced. Fertilize phalaenopsis in the spring (you can find out what fertilizers are needed for the phalaenopsis orchid and how to apply them correctly).

What problems are possible?

Sometimes it happens that everything is done correctly, but the phalaenopsis still does not grow and weakens. Most often this is due to overflow in the store. If the leaves wither and dry out, do not think that this is due to lack of moisture..

An overdried orchid is fully restored after the 1st watering. But saving a flooded phalaenopsis is more difficult.

In this situation, it is worth urgently stopping watering and trying to transplant the plant in order to save at least part of the root system.

Another common problem is infection with a mealybug (lumps of cotton wool appear on the leaves) or spider mites (cobwebs on the underside of the leaf). Requires appropriate pest control.

Conclusion

Now you know how to care for a freshly bought phalaenopsis, and are able to cope with all the surprises and troubles. With proper care, the orchid will grow, bloom and delight you for many years! Now, thanks to our step by step instructions, you know what to do next when you bought a phalaenopsis.

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

Herbaceous plants belonging to the Orchid family. They are represented by epiphytic (plants that live without contact with the soil, most often on another plant, receiving nutrients from the environment) and lithophytic (plants that need rocky or rocky terrain) forms. Phalaenopsis are dominated by epiphytes.

In nature, phalaenopsis lives in the humid tropics of Indonesia, Australia, Southeast Asia, and the Philippine Islands.

General information about Phalaenopsis

Literally translated from Greek, Phalaenopsis sounds like “moth-like”. This is not surprising, because the flowers of this unusual plant are shaped like a flying tropical moth or butterfly. The variety of colors is amazing. Even if you set out to collect orchids of all existing colors and shades at home, you will have to spend a lot of time to achieve it. But even one or several phalaenopsis can significantly decorate your home and give you positive emotions from contemplating their indescribable beauty.

How to choose Phalaenopsis?

So, you have decided to please yourself with the purchase of this beautiful plant. What should be considered when choosing an orchid?

• The plant is desirable to acquire during the flowering period. Then you can choose the color that you like or that is missing in your collection.
• You should pay attention to the leaves: in a healthy plant, they are dark green in color, fleshy, with a waxy sheen. Flowers with damaged, dry or discolored leaves are best left at the store.
• Phalaenopsis roots are green and powerful. If you stir healthy flower in a pot, the roots will sit firmly in the substrate. If the root system of an orchid suffers, then the roots will be sluggish and mobile.

Choice of location and temperature

Here you have purchased your phalaenopsis and now it needs care at home after the store. In order for the flower to be comfortable, you need to choose the right place where it will live and choose the temperature regime, because it directly depends on whether the orchid will please you with flowering or not.

Phalaenopsis loves light very much, so you need to keep it in well-lit places, for example, on windowsills. But it should be remembered that direct sunlight can cause burns to the plant. Therefore, it is better to put them on the east or west side. If the windows in your house face south, you can make a shelf, place it near the window and settle the phalaenopsis there.

Regarding the temperature regime, there are some features. To stimulate the flowering process, you need to create a temperature gradient: in summer, maintain 24–26 degrees, and in winter, reduce the temperature to 15–17 degrees for a couple of weeks. The flower will withstand 30-32 degrees, but if such numbers hold for a long time, your phalaenopsis will react to this by dropping its beautiful flowers and withering of the leaves.

With proper care at home, the phalaenopsis orchid will delight you with flowering from 3 to 6 months.

Choosing the right substrate and pot

In order for the phalaenopsis orchid to feel good, home care should imply a responsible approach to choosing a pot and soil in which it will grow.

The substrate is necessary for phalaenopsis to give a stable vertical position, because. in nature, a flower is watered by tropical rains and from the bottom, when moisture diffuses through the leaves, it receives nutrients. Phalaenopsis roots are called aerial roots and should not be constantly in the water. Therefore, especially for them, there is a substrate on sale, consisting of bark, which provides constant air access to the root system of the flower. If there is insufficient humidity in the room, a little sphagnum moss can be added to the substrate, however, the main thing here is not to overdo it, as it will retain water.

It is better to choose a transparent pot, then the state of the substrate and the roots of the plant will always be under your visual control. Pot size is important: if it is large for phalaenopsis, then the soil will not dry out well, which will eventually lead to rotting of the roots. A too small pot size will lead to permanent trauma to the root system. For aesthetics, you can place a transparent pot in a multi-colored planter, although the sight of a healthy and blooming orchid will attract all eyes.

Humidity and watering

In order for the orchid to grow and please its owner with it Requires air humidity in the range of 30−40%. If the air temperature exceeds what is comfortable for phalaenopsis, the flower pot can be placed on a pallet with wet gravel or pebbles. But do not forget that with excessive moisture, the roots may begin to rot.

Watering or "Bathing" phalaenopsis is a kind of ritual, which allows you to provide the flower with proper care. You should always have settled or rain water at hand. The water temperature for bathing an orchid at home should be slightly higher than room temperature, approximately 26–8 degrees.

In a container filled with prepared water it is necessary to immerse the pot with the plant for 20-45 minutes to sufficiently soak the substrate with moisture. After bathing, place the phalaenopsis pot on a tray or deep plate to drain excess moisture through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Do not allow stagnant moisture around the roots of phalaenopsis.

This ritual should be performed once a week. But if the temperature in the room where the orchid grows is above 30 degrees, you need to do this 2 times a week.

How to transplant phalaenopsis?

The orchid is transplanted no more than once every three years. The best time to do this is in the spring.. But it may also be that the plant will need a transplant immediately after you bring it from the store. It is advisable to do this when the orchid stops blooming.

For transplanting, it is better to use a new substrate, but if this is not possible, then the old one will do. It must be properly washed, boiled and completely dried.

Phalaenopsis must be removed from the pot, clean the roots of the remnants of the soil. Then his good to see and if there is, then remove the yellowed leaves and damaged roots. The cut sites should be treated with an antiseptic. You can process scissors with which you will cut off unusable parts of the plant.

If there are no holes in the bottom of the pot where you will transplant the orchid, you have to do it yourself. Then a layer of expanded clay is laid on the bottom, which will perform a drainage function. We place the flower in the center and sprinkle evenly with the substrate, not forgetting that the roots must have access to air.

Conditions under which the orchid will bloom

It is difficult to single out the main condition, since the observance of all of them in combination leads to the desired result.

After flowering stops phalaenopsis needs special care. In order for flowers to appear again and again, you need to give the plant a rest. For this, the peduncle is cut off to the third bud or remains intact. When the orchid is ready to bloom again, it will throw out a new flower spike.

How to propagate homemade phalaenopsis?

When you realize that home care for orchids is quite simple, then you may be tempted to try breeding your pets. There is also nothing complicated, but you need to be patient.

With a thorough examination of the peduncle, it is necessary to determine the presence of dormant buds. For her awakening need a temperature regime of 24-29 degrees. A semicircular incision is made with a sharp object in the region of the base of the scales of the kidney and it is removed with tweezers. The exposed kidney is treated with cytokine paste and covered with a piece of sphagnum.

After 4-6 weeks one or more young can be observed on the plant with two or three tiny leaves. The number of children depends on how many kidneys you have processed. But it should be remembered that more than one should not be processed on one plant, because it can give all its strength to the children, and die itself.

At the end of 3-4 months, the first roots appear in the cubs. Once they get stronger and reach a length of at least two centimeters, cut the young orchid with a piece of the mother and transplant it into a separate pot. The roots must be covered with moss to protect them from drying out. If the air humidity is insufficient in the room where the young flower will grow, you can make a greenhouse out of a plastic bag. Further care the same as for the rest of the phalaenopsis.

Choosing fertilizers

Another condition that provides decent care is the right fertilizer, because this is important.

Compliance with simple conditions and guided by the rules of care for phalaenopsis, you can grow a whole greenhouse at home fabulously beautiful flowers that will not leave anyone indifferent.