What methods can be used to increase the yield. How to increase the yield of potatoes - practical advice. Secrets of loosening and weeding

Fertilizers, when used correctly, can effectively increase the yield of garden crops. In this case, the main thing is not to overfeed or underfeed the plant with them. These are the rules recommended by experienced gardeners to increase the yield of vegetables, herbs, berries and fruits. In all the rules, fertilizers appear as the main "actor".

Rule 1

When choosing fertilizers, you need to be an innovator. You should not stock up on only organic species or only mineral ones. Fertilizers must be used in a complex manner in order to get the maximum yield from plants or decorative lookthat the plant is capable of.

Rule 2

The measure must also be present at least in the application organic fertilizers, albeit based on mineral mixtures. Let's say those gardeners who annually deplete the land or sprinkle each summer season her kilograms of azofoski, are fundamentally wrong.

The manure "works" as an organic fertilizer for three years after it is distributed on the land. And not every plant needs it. For good, they need to use only certain places on the site for plants that need manure.

In turn, azophoska in the singular should not be added to the soil annually. It is necessary to dilute these fertilizers and adjust them with compost, other types of fertilizers and fertilizing, for example, herbal infusions prepared by ourselves.

Rule 3

Please note that fertilizers can contain either only macronutrients, or microelements, or both. The latter types of fertilizers, which contain complexes of valuable substances, are preferable. Such fertilizers are offered for sale in the form of liquid, also in granules, powdery. Among such complex fertilizers, the most effective are called:

Gumistar
Darina
Giant
Agricola
Orton and many others.

Rule 4

In order to correct correctly what fertilizers your soil lacks, in order to get a large and high-quality harvest, you need from time to time, at least once every three years (especially if you are not happy with the yield), take soil samples on your plot of land to a laboratory for acidity testing soil, humus content in it, and other elements. With this information on hand, you will not blindly add various fertilizers (sometimes not the cheapest) to the soil and thereby harm it, let alone get a good harvest.

Rule 5

If laboratory analysis of the soil from the site showed a deficiency of any individual element - You cannot do without buying a fertilizer with this single substance. Such fertilizers include ammonium nitrate, boric acid and other types of dressings.

Rule 6

It is necessary to apply correctly selected fertilizers to the site not at once, but fractionally, several times during the entire summer season. Each vegetable or other crop in the garden and in the garden requires its own number of dressings and their amount. In this case, nothing can be done "by eye". This is one of the main rules an experienced and successful gardener.

Rule 7

If during the summer cottage the weather is sunny and warm, then fertilizing should be done once every week. If the rains are charged, it is cloudy, cool, there is no heat, then you need to fertilize the soil and plants once every two weeks. With such a "compact" dosage of fertilizers, taking into account the weather conditions, plants will not accumulate harmful nitrates in themselves.

Rule 8

It is not worth using the same fertilizer for the entire summer season. Take note of the following point. If there is more than five percent nitrogen in the fertilizer (in its composition), then use such a fertilizer from spring to mid-summer.

After mid-summer, while preparing plants for winter, the amount of nitrogen fertilization should be drastically reduced, if not removed at all. Since it becomes harmful to plants during this period of the year.

It is advisable after July 15 to start using either other types of fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen, or that it should be no more than five percent in the composition. This whole system is suitable for perennial flower beds, ornamental and berry bushes, fruit trees. Vegetables are grown during one season, so they are fed according to a different system that does not require a reduction in nitrogen in the diet, starting from mid-summer to autumn.

Rule 9

When mixing fertilizers, be sure to read the instructions for them. Not all types of fertilizers can be mixed with each other. Also, you should not store a solution from a mixture of different types of fertilizers for a long time, since it not only loses its qualities, but also accumulates harmful substancespoisoning plants afterwards.

July is the best time to take advantage of MANY special tricks to boost yields or boost vegetable growth.

Influence on the growth, development of plants, and through them - on the overall increase in yield can be both agrotechnical and "surgical" methods, and with the help of special substances, most of which are phytohormones.

Somewhat less often, the regulators of plant development are simpler chemical substancessuch as iron chelate, ethylene or boric acid. As a rule, they are more highly specialized. Some phytohormones are available in stores. For example, heteroauxin (IAA), produced in tablets of 100 mg, which must be dissolved in water (1 tablet per 1 liter of water), naphthylacetic acid (NAA), indolylbutyric acid (IMA) and some others, but even more often auxins are included in the composition more complex drugs such as "Stimul", "Juka", "Seradix", "Rhiposon", etc.

Phytohormones have their own specialization. Thus, the auxin troupe stimulates petiole root formation; their treatment of monoecious plants leads to the formation of predominantly female flowers, which can be used to increase yields and for breeding work... Auxins also accelerate the growth of fruits, besides, under their influence, fruits can develop even from unpolished and unfertilized flowers - they can be used to grow familyless cucumbers, tomatoes and eggplants.

Phytohormones of another class - gibberellins - primarily stimulate cell elongation and thus ensure plant growth in height. In addition, they can accelerate seed germination (which means they can harvest some vegetables earlier), cause plants to bloom without the impact of a long day, and stimulate the growth of pollen tubes. However, on the other hand, a high concentration of gibberellins promotes (in contrast to auxins) the formation of male flowers.

Another class of phytohormones, cytokinins, are also actively used in crop production: they inhibit leaf aging, increase plant bushiness, and can be used to achieve the appearance of a large number of female flowers. In nature, cytokinins act in concert with auxins. They are not sold in their pure form, but are included in various preparations, for example, "Izumruda".

Council number 805

Feeding tomatoes and cucumbers with calcium carbide allows them to increase their yield by 20-30%. The consumption rate of this substance is 8.1 g per 1 m2 for processing seedlings and 60-80 kg per 1 hectare for soil processing.

The best yields are then produced by other vegetables.

Council number 806

Watering with carbonated water (saturated with carbon dioxide) increases the yield of potatoes and other row crops by an average of 8%. Of course, in this case, the water should never be mineral, since the salts it contains will spoil the soil. *

Foliar dressing iodine most different cultures (both vegetable and fruit and berry) increases their yield by an average of 30-40%.

Council number 808

When using these techniques, do not forget that they are not recommended as a replacement, but as an addition to the general complex of plant and soil care. If serious agrotechnical mistakes were made at the stage of preparing seeds for sowing, caring for seedlings, flowering, etc., it will not be possible to correct them with small tricks.

Council number 809

In cucumbers, it is imperative to regularly remove all unsuccessful fruits - ugly "kubariki" and "hooks", as well as all fruits with scratches and spots (spots can speak of their illness). *

Council number 810

You can accelerate the ripening of tomato fruits as follows. On the brush, where there are both ripe and unripe fruits, you need to put on a plastic bag and hold it for 3 days, while during the "batch processing" there will be no external changes with unripe fruits - the results will appear after 2-

3 days after removing the package. The effect is achieved due to the fact that fully ripe fruits secrete physiologically active substances that have the properties of ripening stimulants (ethylene and some others), and polyethylene does not allow them to volatilize.

Council number 811

Ringing tomato stems with copper wire also shortens the ripening time of fruits - by an average of 10 days. To do this, at a height of 2.5-3 cm from the soil surface, the stem of the plant should be wrapped with a thin wire, slightly squeezing the skin, but without damaging the stem. By the way, the sugar content of tomatoes in this case also increases - the fruits are sweeter, with a high dry matter content.

Council number 812

To increase the yield of carrots, it can be "cut" - to shorten the tops. If you regularly cut it with scissors or pinch it (from the moment the diameter of the root crop approaches 1 cm), by the end of ripening, the carrots will become thicker, respectively, their mass will increase.

The yield of annual herbaceous crops is influenced by both factors that affect the overall yield of plants and factors that determine the distribution of assimilates to reproductive tissues.

Yields are affected by crop timing and concentration issues. Fruit quality and keeping quality are also an important yield criterion. Average air temperatures of 18-24 degrees are optimal for the largest total harvest. As the temperature rises, the growth rate of the stem increases and the time to the first harvest is reduced. The first fruits begin to be harvested from plants when high temperaturesbut the harvest time is shortened and the overall yield is reduced.

The difference between day and night temperatures relative to the average does not affect early maturity and early harvestbut has a profound effect on the length of the stem. At night temperatures of 18 degrees or below, early maturity and yield increased by increasing soil temperature.

The responsiveness of the cucumber to temperature can be modified by the light conditions in which the crop is grown. With limited light energy levels in midwinter, as well as stem elongation and early harvesting, yield will be greatest at 21 degrees with no further increase as temperatures rise above this point.

When growing bio-cucumber in a photoculture during several crop rotations per year, a yield of more than 70 kg / m2 was noted.

Increasing average CO2 levels for greenhouse cucumber has become a common practice, especially with closed transoms in the greenhouse. CO2 concentrations of 0.07-0.10% are widely used and increase yields by 20-43%. In cases where ventilation is required for temperature regulation, CO2 enrichment becomes more difficult.

The use of vermicultivation technology and natural enrichment with carbon dioxide increases the yield several times.

Fruit quality

Ensuring fruit quality during harvest while increasing overall yields will not be successful with high plant density. As the fruit yield increased, the proportion of soluble solids and the size of the fruit decreased.

Any factor that shortens the period from the beginning of flowering to the ripening of the fruit will reduce the content of soluble solids in the fruit. Increases in nighttime temperatures, a decrease in leaf surface area and an increase in the number of fruits per plant, all of these factors reduce the period of fruit ripening and, at the same time, reduce the quality of the fruit.

The amount of fruit per plant is inversely proportional to the content of soluble solids in the fruit. Factors that reduce the rate of photosynthesis can affect fruit quality and yield.

The need for high quality fruit indicates the extent to which the harvesting period can be shortened or synchronized in a particular bed. With the density of the plants, when more than 1 fruit ripens on one plant, it may be difficult for the rapid growth of several fruits at the same time without reducing the growth rate or the rate of assimilate intake.

When the production process is not clearly debugged, then this or that working operation is performed out of time, later or earlier, and this requires additional labor costs.

When the cultivation method changes, the disease and pest control scheme also changes. One of the biggest problems is the Botrytis on the main stem.

Lowering the pipes of the heating system under the plants is one of the ways to solve the problem.

Mycosphaerella is another problem. Due to the large difference in height between

large differences in temperature occur between the top of the plant and its lower parts.

In a traditional greenhouse in cold spring the temperature of the plant tops can be 14 degrees. Mycosphaerella can also infect plant tops. In case of severe damage, the plants stop growing. In this case, compensation is not possible with additional stems. There is no such problem in solar bio-vegetation due to transverse air exchange and the use of hybrid batteries.

The productivity potential of cucumbers is significantly higher than that of tomatoes. In theory, cucumbers can yield 150 kg / m2. The average keeping quality of cucumbers is about 19 days.

The height at which the first fruits are kept on the main stem depends on the timing of planting and care. Thus, the first fruits in plants with removed tops in summer are in the 3rd and 4th sinuses in order to inhibit the expected strong growth.

Immediately before planting the catch crop, the old plants are lowered from the hooks on tall twines approximately 15 cm above the ridge. Thus, new plants receive more light. For all planting dates of the catch crop, it was found that with a thickened planting or a greater number of stems per 1 m2, the number of harvested fruits and the yield in kg increase. One plant per 1 m2 and 3 side shoots for a summer crop give a good result. 3 stems per plant is quite a heavy load. If the growth rate of side shoots is not the same, there is a risk that some of them will be forgotten.

Tying in an inclined position and lowering do not have a negative effect on the harvest, however, they cause an increase in labor costs for the establishment of the twine.

In the second half of the growing period, the quality of the fruit deteriorates. Deformed fruits occur because low-lying fruits on the main stem touch the ground or old plant, which affects the shape of the growing fruit.

Possible cause It may also be of moderate quality that the plant ages very quickly in such a system. The growth period of the fruit on the main stem is very short and the plant moves quickly to lateral shoots. Moreover, the fruits are often shortened. In addition to the variety, the influence of the climate also affects here. When grown in SBV, air circulation is more intense, and the distance from the air ducts of the heating system to the plant is greater than normal.

In addition, plants planted in February have few leaves under the trellis, and therefore the number of fruits under the trellis is low. Splitting of the stem at the clamping point is also noted. Since the stem in this system cannot rely on the twine, the side shoots are piled up. The use of light is not optimal. Therefore, plants in intermediate plantings are not very tight on the twine, which significantly improves the distribution of the plant in space.

When compared at the end of August (at the end of the growing season of the 2nd crop), the yield under the traditional system can be up to 59 kg / m2, and the crop in the SBV yields up to 67 kg / m2. The difference is due to the fact that during the culture change period, old plants could bear fruit when young plants grew upward.

Vegetable growers see another advantage in the possibility of biological control during the period of crop change. At this time, there is a good biological balance, and in the traditional system for each culture it must be created anew. In addition, young plants grow in more favorable conditions than the microclimate of an empty greenhouse. With low-volume cultivation and the use of soil-mixture based on vermicompost, the risk of the appearance of a speckled mosaic virus is less.

The greatest benefit can be obtained by extending the growing period of the old crop by 3 weeks. During the period of the crop change, 12 additional fruits can be obtained, for 3 cucumber crops this will be an additional 24 fruits per 1 m2 per growing season during periods with small supplies.

When using thermal insulation screens, heating greenhouses is preferable at night than during the day. Night and day temperatures are leveled. Daytime temperatures, however, may be lower than nighttime temperatures. A change in temperature regimes: night to day and vice versa, when growing cucumbers on high trellises seems promising. Fewer plant growth means less work on trellising, lowering the plants, thinning the lashes and removing leaves. Considering that when grown on tall trellises, plants can reach a height of 24 m, it can be assumed that the decrease in plant height will be significant.

The moment of transition from night to day temperature is very important. In the morning, plants still need additional heat for optimal assimilate formation. In the regime when the daytime temperature is lower than the nighttime, low and strong plants with strong, heavier tops are formed. The percentage of damage to Botrytis is also low. Sensitivity to Botrytis is lower because the temperature is high after sunrise. At the same time, after sunrise, the possibility of condensation on plants or fruits as a result of the difference between the temperature in the greenhouse and the temperature of the plants is small.

GROWING SALAD

In the new system of growing lettuce, LED supplementary lighting is used, it is possible to use multi-tiered ridges - this allows maximum use of the greenhouse area.

This technology makes it possible to produce products all year round, which was not previously possible.

The entire crop cultivation cycle can be divided into 3 stages:

Sowing and germination of seeds

Growing seedlings

Growing to a presentation

Lettuce is grown for 32-34 days, green 38-45.

Temperature regime: day 18-20 degrees. night 16-17 degrees.

The main thing is that compliance with all provided measures allows you to grow environmentally friendly products.

Potatoes are an unpretentious culture: wherever you plant, they will sprout and yield a crop. But the size of the crop with this approach does not always make us happy. Throughout the summer, diligently looking after the planting of potatoes and collecting 120-150 kg per hundred square meters - such an achievement is clearly not worth being proud of. Russian agronomists believe that in our conditions it is realistic to collect at least 300-500 kg of potatoes from a hundred square meters. It is only important to correctly approach the issue of increasing yields.

Autumn soil preparation. The battle for next year's harvest begins in the fall. Crop rotation on the site is organized in such a way that potatoes in the same place grow no more often than once every 3-4 years. If the correct crop rotation cannot be organized, then soil fertility is restored with the help of simple techniques:

• the golden rule of the potato grower: it is impossible for the land to be empty. Immediately after harvesting, in August or early September, a rapidly similar green manure is sown on the plot, for example, white mustard or watercress. In mid-October, the plants are mowed, and the plot is dug up or plowed to a depth of at least 20 cm. Due to deep plowing, pests that have gone for the winter end up at the top and die due to frost;
• winter rye and oats are also used as green manure. From the secretions of rye roots, pathogenic fungi and bacteria that cause potato diseases are killed. If rye or oats are sown in late September - early October, and if you dig up a plot in spring, the soil will be fertilized and disinfected at the same time;
• traps for Colorado beetles and beetles are arranged along the edges of the field;
• in the fall, ash is introduced into the soil - potash fertilizer and protection from pests.

The solution to the fertilizer problem

In the old days, potatoes were fertilized only with manure. Nowadays, due to the high cost, gardeners try to use manure sparingly or replace it.

There should be a compost heap on the site - a source of organic fertilizers, into which weeds, weeded out before seed formation, and food waste are dumped. In such a heap, special humus worms are launched to process compost.

Compost replaces manure

If the site is located near the house, gardeners throw food waste into the compost heap throughout the year. It is more difficult for townspeople to collect organic waste, especially in winter.

Can't be thrown away anyway eggshell and onion skins: these substances are indispensable when planting potatoes. Potato peelings should not be sent to the trash can, as they contain useful elements... It is better to freeze the peel or dry it, and boil it in the spring and put it in the compost heap (you cannot add raw peelings to the compost).

Supporters of organic farming have mastered an interesting method of processing food waste using the concentrate of bacteria "Baikal-EM". Waste is collected in large plastic containers with a tight-fitting lid or strong waterproof polyethylene bags (to reduce the moisture content of the biomass, the layers are sprinkled with sawdust). The advantage of the drug is that the bacteria continuously process food waste, and there is no rotting smell if the container is hermetically closed.

In order not to damage the plants, mineral fertilizers must be brought in according to the norms. For example, from an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, the tops will be lush and strong, and the tubers under it will be small.

Planting material

You can not leave too small potatoes for seeds: “peas” will grow from “peas”. In order to dig up potatoes of normal size in the fall, you need to plant tubers weighing at least 90-100 g, and they are extremely healthy, without signs of decay and rhizoctonia tubercles.

If a gardener constantly grows potatoes in the same place, using only his own planting material, the variety will degenerate after 5-6 years. To prevent this from happening, the planting material is renewed every 4–5 years. The tubers cannot be bought in the market where potatoes are sold of unknown reproductive year. Elite varietal potatoes are expensive, so only a quarter of the planting material can be renewed every year.

To save money, it is useful to learn how to grow your own planting material from the fruits of potatoes - green "tomatoes". Tubers grown in this way will have all the best signs his variety, and the gardener will receive free of charge, free from diseases, elite seed potatoes.

Planting material should not be very small

Preplanting tubers and planting methods

It is better to plant sprouted tubers: then the potatoes will sprout faster and will be more resistant to pests. Before planting, potatoes are treated with growth stimulants or insecticides. The simplest preparations for disinfection are copper sulfate and Bordeaux liquid.

Even in winter, you should consider how to increase the yield of potatoes using one of effective techniques landing.

You can arrange high beds, planting potatoes in mulch, growing in bags or in barrels, with hilling and without hilling - there are no universal recommendations: every gardener, experimenting, chooses the growing method that suits him.

Excellent results are obtained by growing potatoes according to the Meatlider method: in double beds 45 cm wide, the distance between which is 1 m. It has been proven that with this method of planting, tubers grow larger than with a conventional ridge. In addition, less fertilizer and less effort is required to process the bushes, since there is no need to weed the aisles. Meatlider himself received a ton of potatoes from a hundred square meters. Even in unfavorable conditions, this technique can significantly increase the yield of potatoes.

Using the Meatlider method, you can get up to 1000 kg of potatoes from a hundred

True, most gardeners find it difficult to get used to the look of meter-long empty row spacing: it seems that plant the tubers denser - and there will be even more potatoes. So that the heart does not hurt because of the "empty" space, experienced potato growers are advised to sow beans or peas between rows: these plants saturate the soil with nitrogen and scare off Colorado beetles.

But even with the traditional method of planting, it is impossible to make row spacings narrower than 70–80 cm, otherwise the tubers will grow too small due to tightness. In addition, land is taken from the rows for hilling.

Do not plant potatoes too deep, especially if the soil is clayey. It is better then to huddle and form high ridges: then more tubers are formed, and in such ridges the root system will get more air and heat. The rows are oriented from north to south for uniform sunlight.

Fertilization, hilling, watering

IN farms, where there is a lot of manure, in the spring or in the fall this fertilizer is scattered over the site. But if you have to save manure, it is better to put the substance directly into the holes before planting. It is permissible to use rotted manure (including rabbit manure), chicken manure, humus, mineral fertilizers. In addition, a handful of ash, onion husks (scares off Colorado beetles and wireworms), a tablespoon of eggshells must be thrown into each hole.

White agrofibre is an indispensable item for early potatoes

With the traditional method of planting, two hilling are carried out: the first - after the emergence of shoots, the second - when the bushes reach a height of 20-25 cm. In the absence of rain, the potatoes need at least two watering: when shoots appear and before budding begins. If the weather is dry and the soil at a depth of 8 cm from the surface is dry, the bushes are additionally watered once or twice a season.

Mulch, laid on potato beds and between rows, retains moisture in the soil and prevents weeds from growing. Sawdust, straw, pine branches, cut weeds and green manure are used as mulch. To save time on weeding or mulching the beds, the soil can be covered with black agrofibre.

Pest and disease control

There are many popular, time-tested methods of pest control. In the spring, traps for bear and Colorado beetles are set along the edges of the site and in the aisles. Plants are periodically sprayed with a solution of ash and laundry soap, infusion of walnut or tobacco leaves, pollinated with corn flour. An infusion made from the corpses of adults helps against Colorado beetles.

Effective remedies against pests and diseases - copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture. Without them, it is impossible to save even a part of the crop in the event of a late blight epidemic.

When buying insecticides or fungicides from the store, you should use these drugs strictly according to the instructions.

"Shock therapy"

Agronomists have come up with many "shock" ways to increase the yield of potatoes. In one technique, before planting, a deep transverse incision is made on the tuber to awaken the lower buds, which usually do not germinate. And thanks to the annular cut in the upper part of the tuber, the juices will be evenly distributed between all the buds.

One of the options for an incision that increases productivity according to some summer residents

Experimenting with the cuts of the planting potatoes, it is necessary to disinfect the knife each time in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. But the smell of a freshly cut tuber can attract pests.

Some gardeners advise picking potato flowers to increase yields. In this case, there is no particular increase in yield, but the bush that has lost its flowers suffers an injury, since blooming and bearing fruit is the meaning of the bush's life.

In areas where Colorado beetles are very common, do not break off the tops of potato sprouts when they reach a height of 25 cm. This method was developed a century and a half ago, when there were no beetles yet. A bush with damaged tops is defenseless against pests.

Harvesting

In order not to ruin the already grown crop, the tops of the potatoes are mowed when it begins to dry (2 weeks before harvesting). Thanks to this, pathogenic fungi and bacteria (including late blight) from the stems will not get on the tubers. The peel of the potato in the ground will coarse, and it will remain until spring.

I will list some positions in growing technology that answer the question of how to increase the yield of potatoes. How to get a good harvest potatoes? You will find out what gardeners and specialist agronomists pay attention to in the process of growing potatoes. Your choice, your right to take note of them is not. But I have no doubt that they will help you navigate, choose the appropriate ways to increase the yield.

Luck variety

The longer the leaves remain green, the higher the potato yield.

I found this observation interesting, since it is often said that you should not overfeed the plants with nitrogen - this encourages the growth of green mass at the expense of potato tubers. But, nevertheless, good leaf volume means that the green potato bush has more area to intercept sunlight, which, through photosynthesis, is converted into energy for tuber growth. This helps the plant develop a good root system that draws water and nutrients from the soil. Consequently, the gardener's efforts to increase the green mass will allow him to harvest more potatoes.

The quality and quantity of stems affects the yield of potatoes

That is, the more stems, the more powerful the bush. This means that, the more potatoes you dig up. The stems (stolons) that grow from the eyes of the seed potatoes are the main ones and usually the tubers of the new crop are formed on them. Therefore, by increasing the number of main stems, there will be more tubers in this bush. But take a closer look at the bush. It can look powerful even with a small number of stolons. The main stem may simply have lateral shoots, which we will call secondary. They usually do not form tubers. They can and should be removed so that they do not take energy from the main stem. This technique will also help increase the yield.

Watering potatoes

This is a key step in growing potatoes. Of course, it is advisable to water it throughout the growth cycle. And especially in hot dry weather if you want to keep planting. But it is important that it is in moist soil precisely in the first 3-4 weeks after the leaves appear from the ground. Keep in mind that the wetter the soil, the more likely you are to harvest a large crop.

Drying potato foliage

When the foliage begins to die off, the plant comes to the end of its life cycle. But you should pay attention to where the foliage begins to die off. It is very important. If the leaves begin to turn yellow at the bottom of the bush, then that's okay - you should dig up healthy tubers. However, if the lower leaves are healthy, but the upper ones turn yellow, then a pest or disease may be the cause, so the potato bush lacks nutrition. Some action must be taken urgently. The measures taken will depend on the signs of the disease or what pests you find. If it is late blight, then the measures are one, and if you find signs of scab or rhizoctonia, then the methods of struggle are different. Pest control measures are also different - with the wireworm - some, and with the Colorado potato beetle - others. During taken measures to combat diseases or pests will allow, if not increase, then at least save the harvest.

Copper sulfate solution and high potato yield

If potatoes are sprayed with solution 1-2 weeks before harvesting copper sulfate (50 g per 10 l of water), then the tops begin to dry out. It will wither, lose moisture, and nutrients will pass into the tubers, which will noticeably accelerate ripening, increase the yield and its quality.

Spraying potato bushes with a superphosphate solution

How to spray potato tops for tuber growth? Answer: sulfate solution. This is another technique for increasing yields. Spraying with a superphosphate solution slows down the growth of tops, enhances the outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the tubers. As a result, increased yield. Superphosphate is poorly soluble, so it must be thoroughly mixed. Experts advise to insist superphosphate granules in water for 1-2 hours, but I have come to the conclusion that it is best to leave the solution overnight. After several stirring, defend it and drain the top layer of the solution into another bucket. Ten liters should be enough for one hundred square meters. This is done during or after flowering.

Potato treatment with magnesium chlorate

In a cool, humid summer, this technique will speed up ripening and increase the yield. Dissolve 200 g of the drug in a bucket of water. Spray the tops with this solution. A bucket of solution should be enough for one hundred square meters.

Peas planted in one hole with potatoes can increase the yield

And also scares off the Colorado potato beetle. It is enough to plant 5 peas per hole.

Grass as fertilizer for potatoes

The unique method of planting potatoes in trenches pre-filled with cut grass allows you to increase the yield of potatoes. From above, the seed tubers are again covered with cut grass. This method allows you not only to harvest several times more, but to do without hilling, without weeding. For more information about this growing method, see the video.