Original roofing and designer roofs: How to make a bulbous roof in the form of a domed roof. Roof decor element - rafters for onions and domes of the cupola of the dome system - drawings, diagrams, explanations and photos. How to make a domed greenhouse with your own hands

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Deciding on a project for dacha construction, first of all, not only comfort is evaluated, but also the appearance of the future building. A private house It is considered to be a place to relax, so it should be made beautiful and comfortable. If you wish to build on personal plot unique greenhouse, house or gazebo, then you should try to think about the construction of a geodesic dome. In appearance, this is a rather complicated structure, but even a not very experienced builder is able to build it, and material costs will be small. This article will describe how to build a dome with your own hands.

Geodesic dome definition

Experts believe that most people have no idea about this building design, because it is very rare. That is why it is worth describing in detail all the features and technical characteristics of a geodesic dome. Developed buildings with a load-bearing mesh shell inventor Richard Fuller. First, he took a very solid spherical structure and divided it into small triangles, whose sides are located on regular geodesic lines. Richard Fuller's calculations were able to make the construction of the dome simple and accessible to anyone.

The inventor believed that such a unique building design was supposed to solve the problem of quickly building a cheap and comfortable house. This development was not appreciated by experts, and it not applicable in mass construction. However, to build a unique cafe or a beautiful summer house Fuller's geodesic dome is the best option.

The development of Richard Fuller is a fairly stable design. The geodesic dome evenly distributes the entire mass, can withstand huge loads and reduces financial investments in the construction of the foundation. The unique spherical shape is able to withstand the most powerful gusts of wind. Savings in the construction of such houses are due to a reduction in the total area of ​​​​the side surface. In the dome itself, round walls help high-quality air circulation, creating a comfortable microclimate.

The main disadvantage can be considered very complex, in comparison with simple houses, mathematical calculations. Since the construction consists of a huge number of parts, then it is necessary to insulate quite a lot of joints. The geodesic dome has no other significant drawbacks.

Measurements and calculations

If you want to build a geodome with your own hands, you must first carry out all the mathematical calculations. The main task of calculating the geodesic dome is to have a certain radius, get data like this:

It is necessary to focus on such a node for building a geodome as a special connector. This detail is a node that connects all the rafter parts. Since the connector is the main element for fixing the entire structure, it is made of durable high quality material.

Depending on the design of the geodesic dome and the location in it, the connecting connector must have a different number of petals. All fixtures for building a domed house can be purchased or made by hand. good example could be a connector from ordinary perforated tape. Such a connector has a very valuable quality, because it is quite easy to adjust the angle of inclination on it. Small diameter geodesic domes can be built using the connectorless method. However, when building a large house, it is necessary to use a metal connector to fasten the ribs.

In order to make calculations, you need to know the dimensions of the building. It must be remembered that the total area of ​​​​the manufactured geodesic dome will be slightly less area circles, because at the base there is a polyhedron that is inscribed in a circle. The height of the building can be determined by the total length of the diameter. It is worth noting that the greater the height of the dome, the more the structure will look like a sphere.

To calculate the necessary details of the future design, it is worth using a special online calculator. Need to enter data about the height and radius of the building, and the calculator will calculate the geodome and provide the length and number of ribs, the type and number of connecting connectors.

DIY construction

The most suitable structures for dome construction can be considered small greenhouses, cozy gazebos or country houses. First you need to choose a place to build. If it is a greenhouse, then you need to find a well-lit area. Suitable for a house or gazebo slightly shaded area. The site for any of these buildings is leveled, and then all debris and tree roots are removed from it.

Greenhouse

Building a domed greenhouse is the easiest. To assemble it, you do not need a foundation, and the material for the foundation can be ordinary boards, bars or metal pipes. On a previously prepared surface, it is necessary to begin assembling the base of the greenhouse-dome. First of all, triangles are assembled and fastened together. In order not to confuse the faces, they must be signed and checked against the drawing. If the greenhouse is small, then during assembly, the connecting connector should be replaced with a simple mounting tape and fasteners.

The manufactured geodesic dome should be covered with a simple film. A domed greenhouse will look much better, which covered with polycarbonate sheets. The triangles cut out of polycarbonate must be fixed on the frame, and all joints must be closed with decorative strips. From the street, the geodome can be decorated with decorative stone, plant flowers and install a small fence. Such a domed greenhouse will be a unique decoration of any country house.

Alcove

In the form of a geodesic dome, you can build a gazebo. For this it is necessary follow these recommendations:

After the manufacture of the design of the domed gazebo, an equally important stage of work follows. It consists in covering a round gazebo with a dome. The material for this can be used very different. If the design of the geodesic dome is not completely covered, and a couple of sections of the gazebo are left open, then they can be decorated with a beautiful fabric. In such a comfortable gazebo, you can enjoy spending your free time with family and friends.

House

The dome can become the basis of a unique house on suburban area. The main difference from the gazebo and greenhouse is the need to build a foundation. In order to build a domed house, it is worth adhere to the following recommendations:

• a well-insulated foundation is needed;
• special corner posts are attached to the base of the foundation, which are strengthened with horizontal struts;
• the construction of a domed house is being assembled;
• outside the house must be sheathed with plywood sheets.

By installing doors and window frames, it is worth starting the decoration of the geodesic house from the inside. It is laid in all openings good insulation, which is sewn up with plywood sheets. In order to build a domed house, it takes no more than three months of work. The shape of the geodesic dome will help save on materials.

When living in such a house, you can appreciate the main advantages of this design.

Round views of the rafter system will be incomplete if you do not stop at the device of the "bulbous" roof. This form of the roof of buildings is a hallmark of Orthodox churches and temples. It is difficult to imagine that someone would want to use this form of roofing for some of their own houses. But if we take into account the fact that today not all churches are being restored by construction companies, especially in remote villages, then additional knowledge proper construction truss system A "bulbous" roof will not be superfluous.

If the dome has a diameter of no more than 3 m, then for it you can do wooden frame. The rafter legs of the bulbous dome have a specific shape, which is called the "crane". As a rule, a layered truss system is used in the onion dome. Additional rigidity to the rafter legs is given by braces and braces, which are installed at the points of greatest loads in order to prevent the destruction of the dome structure.

"Cranes" are cut out according to special patterns from wooden planks with a thickness of 40 mm, for this purpose it is allowed to use a double board of a smaller thickness. The rafter legs rest on the central pillar, which also serves as the basis for mounting the cross crowning the head.

If it is planned to cover the dome with metal, then a crate is mounted along the “cranes”, which has a pitch, as a rule, of 30 cm. support her.

Often, during the restoration of churches made of wood, the dome is covered with an aspen plowshare. To do this, each bar is carefully bent in order to create an exact repetition of the onion design. The plowshare layers are mounted on the roof so that water cannot flow between the rows.

Making the roof of domes is a rather painstaking and time-consuming work. In general, in the field of roof repair, work related to domes is, as a rule, rare, but very difficult work. Domes are being made different ways- 1 - directly on the roof, already from the finished roofing material; 2 - the roof of the dome is made on the ground, then it is installed in place; 3 - the roof of the ferrous metal dome is first made, then the "golden light" type is sprayed, and then the dome is put in place. The roof of the towers is usually done on the ground, after which the tower is erected in place. Usually they use a roof with a checker and scales, less often they use a folded roof.

What explains the evolution of the architecture of domes in Rus', from helmet-shaped to bulbous? There is a version that this is the influence of Byzantine icons. It was on them that the domes of the buildings of Heavenly Jerusalem were onion. It is also known that the Byzantine dome structure was not subjected to changes. In our country, from a certain period of time, the domes acquired an onion-like appearance.

I must say that Orthodox churches, unlike Catholic ones, were built, guided by Orthodox symbols. The Catholics paid tribute to the architectural style during the construction of temples.

Domes always complete the construction of all Orthodox churches. The architecture of the domes symbolizes the spiritual sky.

Exclusive items. Domes

Today the roof is not only reliable protection buildings from external influences, but also an important decorative element of the building. For many years our company has been engaged in the construction of its various types, among which domed roofs occupy a significant place. They are used in dome construction, as well as for buildings round shape. Since the curved roof of the building is five times larger than its walls, this structure is original in appearance. This architectural feature is also due to a number of "pluses" of such a building.

Benefits of a house with a domed bulbous roof

Since the design does not have bearing walls, it is very strong and stable.

· Due to the streamlined shape, the roof does not become an obstacle to strong air currents, therefore, it maintains the integrity and strength of the structure.

· Due to its geometry, such a covering is unpretentious in maintenance. It does not accumulate precipitation.

· The roof of a spherical shape has a large volume with a small area. This makes it possible to save time, material and labor resources.

The manufacture of church domes is one of our activities. Today we are working on classic projects, and we make models according to the sketch of the customer. This is a very time-consuming process, but having extensive experience in this field, we are ready to make a copy of any complexity, as well as guarantee high quality work.

For example, if you decide to make a dome for a chapel, our employees can provide existing designs or implement your idea. Depending on the size of the product, it can be made in the workshop and then fully installed (small in diameter). And it can be performed in sections, which are then mounted alternately (for large sizes).

Roof decoration, exclusive

Exclusive elements in the equipment of the roof are an important point. They carry both practical and aesthetic value. These can be unusual snow-retaining barriers, caps and chimneys, skillfully created weather vanes, etc.

When designing domes and other structures, the following are taken into account: climatic zone, atmospheric conditions, wind loads, compatibility with embedded parts, possible ways transportation and installation.

All work is done by the team. qualified specialists who have undergone special training and certification.

Such a roof has many advantages, in particular, it can be almost completely glazed with PVC windows, and you will not have problems clearing it of snow. In addition, this design has excellent resistance to wind loads. In a word, interesting option for a home greenhouse device, for example.

The device "bulbous" roof

Semicircular types of truss systems will be incomplete if you do not consider the device of the "bulbous" roof. This form of roof is a hallmark of Orthodox temples and churches. It is difficult to assume that someone will use this form for some of their own buildings. But given the fact that not all churches in Russia are restored by construction companies, especially in remote villages, then additional knowledge on how to make the truss system correctly will not be superfluous.

If the dome is not more than 3 m in diameter, then its frame can be made of wood. specific form rafter legs bulbous dome is called "crane". In fact, we are dealing with a layered truss system. Additional rigidity to the "cranes" is given by braces and struts installed at the points of greatest loads in order to prevent the destruction of the dome structure. "Cranes" are cut out according to special patterns from boards 4 cm thick; a double board of smaller thickness can also be used for this purpose. The cranes rest on the central pillar, which also serves as the basis for the installation of the cross crowning the head. Installation options can be seen in the photo.

If the dome is covered with metal, then a crate with a pitch of 30 cm is arranged along the cranes. But it happens that the domes are covered with a scaly roof, this is the most time-consuming method, since for each “scale” an additional circle is mounted that supports it. And during the restoration of wooden churches, the domes are covered with aspen plowshares. Each plank is gently curved to exactly follow the design of the onion. Layers of shares are laid on the roof so that they do not allow water to flow between the rows. A bulbous roof is a fairly rare type of roof that has an almost spherical shape. Most often, such roofs are decorated Orthodox churches, although there are not alone cases when an individual developer uses this form of roofing in the construction of a residential building. The opinions of historians are divided as to where the onion roofs came from, some argue that this is the heritage of Muslim temples, while others are convinced that this onion form of the roof is an exact copy of the shape of the tents of ancient Russian architecture.

Since the specific shape of the roof limits the choice of material, such roofs are usually covered with a copper checker.

In the construction of Orthodox churches, this form is used for a reason, the main factor why the architects settled on this form of roofing is that it resembles a lit candle in all its appearance.

Roofs of curvilinear outlines. Bulb heads. Bulb domes, depending on their size (diameter), were made as follows: - small (diameter less than 60 cm) - from a single log, which is a continuation of the axial column and at the same time the upright of the cross (photo 28). - Large (diameter over 60 cm) - frame structure, including the following elements - cranes, circles, crate, covering heads (wooden plowshare)). The cranes at the domes of small diameter could each be made from one solid board, with large diameters they are rallied from several boards. The number of cranes also depends on the size of the head and, as a rule, ranges from 8 to 24 per head. See fig. 16. The cranes directly form the head, its contour, they are installed on the wheel with their heels, and are cut (or nailed) with their upper ends into the axial post-mast. Cranes are made from a board according to a template. Between themselves, they are connected with boards of the crate, hemmed at the ends and along the outer surface to create a rounded shape of the head. To fasten the crate, the outer 21 edge of the crane is hewn on two sides (on the mustache). Usually the thickness of the crane boards is 50–60 cm. The crate is made of wide - up to 25 cm and thick - 5 cm, unedged hewn boards. They are tightly pressed one to the other, forming a continuous flooring.

A layer of birch bark is laid on the leveled surface of the crate, with overlapping of the overlying sheets onto the underlying ones. The actual roof is laid on it - a plowshare. During the restoration of the monument, we should strive to make the most of the preserved elements of the domes, cranes and circles, by doing this we, first of all, will preserve the exact dimensions and shape of the structure with all its nuanced features. Restoration of these elements can be done by installing crowns, prostheses on wooden dowels or using additional fasteners. Share. The most common plowshare material is aspen. However, in a number of cases, on individual monuments in different regions In the north of Russia and Siberia, there was a plowshare made of pine, larch, and less often from wood of trees of other species. To make a plowshare, healthy logs are taken, which are sawn into logs, equal in height to the required length of the plowshares. The dimensions of the plowshares vary considerably depending on the parameters of the cupola or drum of the cupolas they cover. The larger the head, the larger the share is used for covering. Its dimensions are in the range of 16-22 cm in width and from 25-45 cm in length, with an average thickness in the lower part of not more than 3 cm, the upper edge of the ploughshares is almost nil. Large and small shares are rare, the most common size of the share is 20-40 cm long. The share is hewn with an ax according to the dimensions indicated in the project or determined from the preserved historical samples. When making a plowshare, it should be borne in mind that the old masters for the main part of the surface of the head made a plowshare, as a rule, of one size 22, but of different curvature in height and width, depending on the location of the plowshares.

When installing a plowshare in the lower part of the head, expanding towards the top, the shares are hemmed along the edges in the lower part, for the middle part of the head they remain as they were made, and in the upper, tapering part of the head they are again hemmed along the edges, but at the top. Therefore, in the tapering part of the head, the joints of the overlying ploughshares may not coincide with the axes of the underlying ones and are located quite freely, but in such a way that these joints are still overlapped by the upper ploughshares. For the narrowest, upper part of the heads, the size of the plowshare is slightly changed, narrowing it, but so that there are no more than 10 pieces of plowshares in the top row. A common mistake when carrying out restoration work on the domes is the production of the same number of plowshares for all rows, with a change in their width, with their unjustified grinding in the upper part of the cover, and the resulting orderliness of the plowshare cover destroys the plasticity characteristic of traditional folk architecture, liveliness and naturalness of form. The plowshare is fastened in a run-up, with the bottom row overlapping with the top one by about 0.5 of the length of the plowshares.

The ploughshares are fastened with one or two nails covered by the overlying ploughshares. The plowshare is found in several types according to the shape of the processing of the lower part - crenate, scaly, ironing. The urban pattern of the plowshare is the most common and the most ancient. There are examples when the temples of the XVII - XVIII centuries. during renovations in the 19th century. they replaced the city plowshare with a scaly or ironing one (Odigitrievskaya church in the village of Kimzha, Arkhangelsk region). A certain dating sign for the plowshare is the ratio of the height and width of the steps of the town. The most ancient plowshares are characterized by elongated, more elongated vertical sections of the town cutting elements. . To install the heels of the cranes, grooves were selected in them. The outer edge of the circle was hemmed into a mustache for laying and fastening an epanchi (“tear-shaped belt”, “collar”)

Church domes are a complex type of architecture, it is almost impossible for a non-professional to mount it, this is not a truss system for metal tiles or other roofing material for gable roof ordinary house.

If the dome has dimensions of more than 3 m in diameter, then metal is used for its frame. Here, the cranes with a support column will be fastened with spacers, also made of metal. The crate will be metal strips, which are mounted in increments of 0.4-0.5 m. Such domes are covered with a metal seam roof. Often, metal sheets look like scales, the seams of which are soldered during installation.

We wrote a lot about the types of truss system, gave overview descriptions of the calculations that must first be carried out if the roof truss system is being built with our own hands. First of all, we described the device of truss systems for single-slope, gable, hip or hip roof. But in individual construction, there are also conical, as well as semicircular roofs. The topic of this article, we have chosen an overview of truss systems for such roofs that are not often found.
The device of the conical bulbous roof

A conical roof can be made over a round or multi-faceted structure. The scheme of the truss system assumes a layered type of rafters. Since they require support elements - girders, then the annular girder will act as the upper support, which is fixed on the central column in such a way that the highest point of the turret cone is not loaded. The second support will be the same ring Mauerlat, which is laid along the wall of the turret. The design of the ceiling beams must be designed for a concentrated load in the place where the central column will be installed. The annular ridge run is attached to the central post with the help of braces. All nodes of the truss system require careful calculation, if you do not feel confident in yourself, it is better to order a calculation from a construction company!

For those who are going to use wood, we will say that it is best to order elements of the truss system from glued laminated timber, especially when subsequently used as roofing material natural tiles. Since this is a very heavy material - one square meter such a roof will weigh at least 40 kg; wooden truss systems for it must have increased strength.

The number of rafter legs, which are the stiffeners of a conical roof, will be determined by the cross section of the material used and the required distance between them.

As a roofing material for conical roofs, in addition to natural tiles, it is good to use bituminous shingles, wood shingles or metal. As an example, we give a photo of the truss system wooden house with a conical turret. It is irrational to use any wavy sheets on such a roof - a lot of material will go to waste and the joints will be a constant “headache” for the owner, and such a roof will simply look ugly from the outside.

Dome roof device

Unlike a conical roof, which is built using a layered truss system, a domed roof has a hanging truss system. An ordinary three-hinged arch, which, in fact, are hanging rafters, rests at one end on a Mauerlat laid along the wall, and at the other end on a support ring, which is mounted at the top of a pole installed in the center of the structure.

If you like such structures, then the construction and design of the truss system for it will require good technical knowledge in the field of the classic "Sopromat" and " Theoretical mechanics". If you do not own enough of either one or the other, it is better to order a calculation from a construction company. They will count, but you can build it yourself.

Consider, as an example, the drawings of a wooden dome:

A) Scheme of loads that act on each arch of the hanging rafters,

B) The scheme of fastening the arches to the central support and the Mauerlat, as well as the design of the ventilation lantern above the upper support ring,

B) View of the dome from above,

D) The design of the lock hinge at the top of the dome,

E) Top view of the ventilation lantern.

The semicircular structure of the dome is obtained due to the annular crate, which is mounted on additional racks, resting against the puffs of the hanging rafter arches.

Another way to arrange the dome was proposed by the American architect R.B. Fuller, he presented the dome as a structure formed by triangles. His project is called "geodesic dome". Despite the fact that this design was presented back in 1951, it did not become widespread. Most likely, due to the complexity of the calculations and the unusual appearance.

Mounting the truss system in a geodesic dome can be of two types:

· Connector, when triangles are assembled from pieces of timber and special connector locks right above the walls of the house.

· Connectorless, when triangular panels are prefabricated and assembled into a common structure on site.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for making a mobile geodome

Do-it-yourself geodesic dome

Good afternoon This article will be useful for anyone who is interested in the geodome and who wants to create this amazing structure with their own hands. In the article, we will not go into the general theory of geo-domes, because. This is a capacious topic covered in other articles. Below are specific instructions on how to make a mobile geodome small size. Such a dome will ideal solution for all travelers and lovers of living in nature, suitable for a country gazebo or children's house. This dome is a universal mobile tent, compact during transportation (suitable for any car), quick to assemble (2-3 hours), very durable and resistant to natural elements. And this house is round and harmonious. People say that due to its synergistic (geodesic) frame structure, the geodome favorably affects the surrounding space and harmonizes it. We have experienced this many times. Having installed a stove in such a house, you can safely live in it until late autumn. There are options for wintering, but they require warming.

Many photo materials for this article were collected from various sources, for which many thanks to their creators. Also, special thanks to our Latvian friends who inspired us to create such an instruction.

So, let's begin!

This is the kind of geodesic dome you should end up with.

Dome diameter: 6.2 meters
Dome height: 3.65 meters
Number of parts: 165
Number of sizes: 3
Area: 30 sq.m.
Number of bolts: 61
Bolt size: М8х60

Frame material selection

A convenient and budgetary material for the frame of a geodesic dome is a steel pipe (electrowelded). Suitable for our dome round pipe 25x1.5mm. You can buy such a pipe at the nearest market or metal depot. Typically, pipes are sold in six-meter lengths. For ease of delivery, you can cut them by 3 or 1.5 meters.

So we need 252 meters of pipe (42 pipes of 6 meters each). The cost is about 6000 rubles.

Tool selection and workspace creation

To make a frame, you will need the following set of tools:

Manual grinder with discs for metal (or cutting machine)
Hand drill (or drilling machine)
Drills for metal (diameter 9mm)
Hand press
Vise
Work table (at least 1.5 meters long)

Pipe cutting

Selection of a hand press and preparation of the workplace

You can see some models of a hand press. If you have a friendly metalworking production, you are lucky).

For fast and accurate manufacturing, you will need various equipment and devices that help and speed up the process. Here you can show your divine intellect or use ideas that have already been invented.

Next production steps

Flattening the ends of the pipe (in the same plane!!!)
drilling
Bend the ends 11 degrees relative to the entire pipe (this is necessary to “round” the frame into a dome)

Tip layout:

The first end of the pipe is flattened arbitrarily, but the second end must be flattened in the same plane as the first end. Therefore, craftsmen use a simple “slit” device, clamping the first flattened tip in a certain plane. The second end is flattened in the same plane. After flattening, it is recommended to file the ends with a file or beam (remove sharp corners and burrs).

To drill holes, you can make a small fixture, shown in the photo below. In this case, the device helps to fix the pipe. During this operation, the exact distance between the centers of the holes is also checked (with a tape measure or a mark on the table).

Having drilled all the holes, you need to bend the flat ends of the pipe 11 degrees relative to the pipe. To do this, you can use the tool below. In this case, a line corresponding to 11 degrees is drawn on the table, which is the mark to which you make the bend.

After all the operations, you should get something like this:

Painting elements

There are many tips on this issue that you can find on the Internet. After painting, it is recommended to mark all elements with a color code for ease of assembly.

fasteners

Bolt M8, 50mm long - 65 pieces
Washer M8 - 130 pieces
Nut M8 - 65 pieces

Assembly

You will need 2-3 people, an M8 wrench (or wrench) and a small ladder (or turret). The first time it will be more convenient to collect from the bottom up. For assembly, use the color scheme. Assemble the dome in an orderly manner, in a spiral!!! Those. unfold and fasten the bottom ring first, then attach the next row to it, connect the row. Continue in the same spirit, collecting each row in order.

In order for the publication not to be too long, instructions for making a shell for the dome will follow in the next post.

We wish you successful creativity!!!

Behind last years domed houses in our country have moved from the category of exotic to the category of unusual buildings. Their owners are no longer perceived as developers who simply decided to stand out from the background of typical cottages, but as people who have made conscious choice similar design.

But the mass distribution of domed houses, as usual, is hampered by stereotypes and a lack of practical information on the design of such structures. Therefore, in this article we will cover:

• What is the difference between a stratodesic domed house and a geodesic one.
• How to build a domed house yourself.
• How to build a domed house without using connectors.
• How much does it cost to build a domed house.

The difference between a stratodesic domed house and a geodesic

As practice shows, people who first saw or learned about domed houses are most often divided into two categories. These are those who unconditionally accept such a form of a house and, we note, a way of life, and those who consider such structures to be a fad or, as an option, a house not under permanent residence, but a summer cottage "not like everyone else."

We will not go into details of the discussion of the advantages and disadvantages of domed houses (and they, like any building technology, have them) and will concentrate on practice. So, there is a developer who wants to build a domed house. Where to begin? An excellent example of a competent and thorough approach is the story of a portal user with a nickname Rustad.

Rustad FORUMHOUSE user

I decided to build a domed house with a relatively small area, about 100 square meters. m, near St. Petersburg. The site is on a slope. The house will be mainly used in the summer with infrequent visits in the winter. I will build a geodesic domed house using a non-connector technology. Such a structure is accurate mathematical model. It is impossible to build it without calculation and project, because. the error in the assembly of the frame and in the manufacture of parts should not exceed 1 mm. If you do not follow this rule, then with the accumulation of jambs, the frame will “leave”.

Before we talk about the nuances of designing and building a house, shown in the photo below, we will answer the question that is one of the first to arise for any person who has decided to build a domed house.

What is the difference between a stratodesic domed house and a geodesic one? Without going into a detailed description of the technology, let's say that the key difference lies in the way the frame is erected.

Stratodesic dome erected from racks, for example, made of bent glued wooden beams, and the stages of its assembly are in many ways reminiscent of the usual technology of frame building.

A feature of this technology is its resistance to vertical loads and the possibility of using standard windows and doors in the construction.

geodesic dome built differently. First, individual sections are made, for example in the form of triangles, which are then, step by step, connected to each other.

When assembling the ribs (sections) of a geodesic dome, the technology of a connector connection (for example, using a metal connector) can be used.

Or (less common in Russia) connectorless technology.

Rustad I settled on the last option and, as we said above, started with the development of the project.

Rustad

Building a domed house without a project or scribbling something with a pencil on a piece of paper is a hopeless task. From the experience of friends I can say that this always leads to only one thing - alterations and endless restructuring of what happened. Also not a panacea - to give the project at the mercy of the designer.

A designer can draw beautifully, but in terms of practice, what he created is often simply impossible to bring to life. A person with a specialized education should design a house, but even a design engineer may not take into account the position of the building on the site relative to the cardinal points, the wind rose, dimensions finishing materials. That's why Rustad, having two free months at his disposal, he sat down to design a domed house, and that's what he ended up with.

It should be noted that the project has been modified several times during this time, taking into account the recommendations of experienced builders, the availability of materials, the peculiarities of furniture arrangement and the wishes of the household.

Stages of construction of a geodesic domed house

Having completed the stage of designing a domed house, Rustad proceeded to build it. We will immediately give a few user recommendations regarding the organization of construction.

Rustad

I wanted to build the house as soon as possible, so I attracted assistants - one person who is well versed in the features frame construction and a helper. I will say right away, yes, this is an extra cost, but if I built a house alone, it would take me 3 summer season. At the same time, it would most likely not be possible to achieve high-quality work. Because purely physically, it is impossible for one to hold the knots (ribs of the frame) on the weight and at the same time fasten them to each other. When assembling, you always have to tighten or bend something. The second and third pair of hands are vital. Otherwise - the accumulation of errors from row to row and, as a result, a "jamb" with the upper contour.

According to the user, he supervised the construction, and his personal - physical contribution, is about 30%. The experience of the master (to avoid mistakes) of the frame builder also came in handy. Also, the speed of assembly of the circuit has increased significantly, tk. 2 people do the work 4 times faster than 1, and 3 people “turn” the same amount of work 8 times faster.

Therefore, the entire construction is divided into a number of successive stages, each of which requires careful monitoring.

1. Building a foundation for a domed house.

The site is on a slope. The angle of inclination is about 12 degrees. As a foundation Rustad chose pile-screw. The pile field consists of 24 piles with the following sizes:

• pile diameter - 108 mm;
• pile length - 2.5 m.

Piles spun in 2 days, carrying until night. The user notes that, having trusted the foreman of the workers, he himself did not mark the pile field.

As a result: several piles were not where the nodes of the house are located. To correct the error, the “16th” channel had to be welded on.

2. Making a frame: ribs, racks and rafters.

For the frame, we bought a winter forest and pre-cut all the blanks in size for miter saw, in accordance with the project.

It took the user 4 days off.

3. Assembly of the domed house.

Construction of the house began in April. The weather was, to put it mildly, “not flying”: either rain, or snow, or wind.

The construction of the domed house began with the installation of the riser (cylindrical base).

Raiser was recruited from triangles to make the house look like a single whole.

At this stage, the question arose of how to make a takeaway under the terrace. The user did not want to turn the piles under each log - it would have turned out to be one continuous pile field. This is not economically viable, and besides this, the terrace would look ugly.

Rustad decided to make a terrace in the form of a "balcony" - a departure, which is a continuation of the floor of the first floor. It remains to choose a material that can withstand such a load.

Rustad

When I took up this issue and turned to companies, I was recommended to make a takeaway from glued I-beams. Comparing these beams (OSB wall 18 mm thick) withLVL beam, section 51x300 mm, I did not see any particular economic benefit in purchasing an I-beam, but doubt the strength and bearing capacityLVL beam is not necessary. He placed it.

Having mounted the logs, they laid a temporary floor from the boards on them, because. weather conditions did not allow to do normal.

To assemble the dome (in the snow, strong wind and rain) it took 2 days.

Important nuance: to fasten the ribs and beams together, the user used 6x140 mm structural self-tapping screws.

Unlike ordinary self-tapping screws (especially the so-called hardened “black” ones, which cannot withstand dynamic loads and break), a structural self-tapping screw can be bent into an arc, and it will not burst. A special notch cuts through, rather than pushes apart the fibers of the wood, so the self-tapping screw can be screwed into a knot or into the edge of the board and it will not crack.

Also, the self-tapping screw is stronger than usual, and the “asterisk” head does not allow the bit to break and cut off the edges, which simplifies screwing.

To assemble one knot of six ribs, 12 pieces are required. self-tapping screws.

Engineering communications - water pipes, electrical cables spent on the floor.

The electrical box was also assembled in accordance with the project at home and placed in the "basement".

The next stage is the sheathing of the assembled dome with a moisture and windproof membrane, with obligatory gluing of overlaps special tape. Stuffing the crate under the ventilation gap. Installation of OSB (bases for flexible tiles).

The "pie" of the dome practically repeats the "pie" of the roof for the installation of a soft roof.

Important nuance: the dome cladding was made from patterns (triangles) from OSB-3 sheets, 18 mm thick, 1220x2440 mm in size.

Sheathing was nailed with 6x60 mm bristled nails.

Rustad

This nail holds very well. You can pull it out only with “meat”, and it gets clogged faster than turning self-tapping screws.

Having made the outer contour, the builders began to insulate the floor. Ecowool was blown into the floor with a layer of 30 cm, using a home-made installation based on a garden vacuum cleaner and a plastic barrel.

After insulation, the floor was covered with sheets of moisture-resistant GSP (gypsum particle boards) 12 mm thick, laying them in 2 layers.

Having mounted the base, we proceeded to the insulation of the walls. For this, a synthetic non-woven material (insulation) 5 cm thick was used, laying it in 3 layers.

Rustad

It is a pleasure to work with this type of heater. It is not prickly, not afraid of moisture, light. Only cutting with a knife is difficult, it is better to use scissors or a special electric carpet cutter. And I will add: it is better not to put heavy objects on the insulation, and also not to store the rolls in height. The insulation may not recover its shape after the load is removed. It is better to act according to this algorithm - they brought it and immediately put it.

Having insulated the walls, they pulled a vapor barrier over the frame and also sewed everything up with gypsum particle boards, but only 10 mm thick.

At this stage, the house has already acquired a finished look. After the erection of partitions, the installation of engineering systems and finishing processes began.

This includes the following works.