Currently, there is a catastrophic situation with unskilled intervention in the operation of general house systems, in particular, during the installation or alteration of heated towel rails (PS) connected to hot water risers.

This article describes the principles of the functioning of the PS, provides examples of both competent connection and initially non-working or unstable options, explaining the reasons for their inoperability.

I will make a reservation that the article will talk about relatively new houses in which heated towel rails are connected to the same hot water riser, from which hot water is supplied to apartments. But in some houses (the overwhelming percentage of the secondary housing stock), a separate hot water recirculation riser is intended for heated towel rails. Or the riser of heated towel rails is powered by central heating, i.e. PS do not work in the summer. The topic of this article does not apply to such houses.

All diagrams and photos increase when you click on them.

A bit of history, old types of PS.

Twenty years ago, the substation "from the developer" was a monolithic riser pipe, curved in the form of the letter P or M.

Figure 1: U-shaped substation, which is part of the riser A.

Figure 2: M-shaped SS, which is part of the riser.

Despite the unsightly appearance, this type of substation had undeniable advantages: it was constantly hot, did not introduce any noticeable hydraulic resistance, and did not allow residents to disturb the operation of the hot water supply (DHW) riser in any way.

However, time passed, and the tenants in the old housing stock, making repairs, changed the old and ugly substation to a new and shiny one. In a good scenario, it turned out like this:

Figure 3: New substation, which is part of the riser, a competent replacement.

The diameter of the substation corresponds to the diameter of the riser, the connection is made without narrowing and without stop valves (cocks).

In case of an unsuccessful scenario - like this:

Figure 4: New substation, which is part of the riser, illiterate replacement.

Four extra constrictions from the used fittings appeared in the riser:

Figure 5: Internal section of a fitting for multilayer pipes.

But it gets much worse:

Figure 6: The new SS, which is part of the riser, is a completely illiterate replacement.

In addition to the narrowing already mentioned above, shut-off valves have been added. When any of them is blocked in the riser, the circulation stops completely, the pressure in the apartments following in the direction of supply drops to zero (water can somehow come from the “return” line), the riser cools down in the absence of water intake, when the mixer is opened, cold water has to be drained for a long time .

Installation of shut-off and control valves (faucets) on risers is strictly prohibited!

Branches from the DHW riser for heated towel rails.

Over time, developers began to use more modern technologies and instead of a terrible bent pipe, they began to make two branches from the riser to connect the substation at the choice of the residents themselves. However, unfortunately, neither the type, nor the height of these outlets from the floor, nor the distance between them is in any way standardized. This leads to massive problems when connecting the PS, which will be discussed below.

Figure 7: Riser taps, unshifted and unrestricted bypass.

Figure 8: Riser taps, narrowed bypass.

Figure 9: Riser taps, offset open bypass.

Between the taps there is always a bypass - a pipe section with a diameter equal to the diameter of the riser or 1 step less.

The bypass at the heated towel rail solves several problems:

• Maintaining the normal circulation rate throughout the hot water riser (HW). Forced circulation in the riser ensures the supply of evenly hot water (according to the norms - 60 degrees) to any apartment, on any floor, regardless of its distance from the start of supply to the riser.
• Only part of the total flow (water) passes through one substation, the other part goes by, keeping more heat for the next bathrooms. After all, one or two dozen heated towel rails can work from one riser.
• It is possible to completely turn off the substation or adjust its temperature by residents without affecting the rest of the apartments (the latter requires the installation of an additional control valve on one of the outlets, since it is impossible to regulate anything using a ball valve).

Let's talk about physics. Gravity pump in PS.

If the performance of the substation at a narrowed or displaced bypass still somehow fits in the heads of plumbers who think in terms of “push through or not push through”, then the scheme without shifting the bypass and without narrowing the riser plunges them into a complete stupor: “All water passes by the towel! It won't go there! It can never work!"

However, the PS with this connection works great! At the heart of its performance is the "gravity pump":

improves the circulation of the PS, increasing the pressure of the "gravity pump" in the PS itself.

a.) Slows down the circulation in the entire riser (the temperature of hot water drops from the points of water intake in the apartments).

To improve the circulation according to this scheme, the local widening of the unbiased (axial) bypass in the area of ​​the upper branch to the substation can be improved. A photo of such a bypass is shown below.

Permissible options for the execution of scheme No. 1.

.

Figure 14: Side connection, example of correct execution.

The vertical substation is located entirely between the taps, no conditions for the operation of the circuit are violated.

Figure 15: Side connection, example of acceptable design.

The top of the PS is above the top outlet. It will be necessary to bleed air from the PS after turning off the water.

Scheme No. 2: bottom connection.

Less effective than lateral has its advantages and disadvantages.

Figure 16: Connection of a PS ladder running on natural circulation, without constriction and without offset bypass. Bottom connection.

Figure 17: PS-ladder connection operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with bypass offset. Bottom connection.

Figure 18: Connection of a PS ladder, operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowed bypass. Bottom connection.

Site author's opinion:

In my opinion, the operation of schemes No. 16-18 may be unstable with a lower supply through the riser. Or even completely impossible.

Especially schemes No. 17-18. Therefore, I would not advise using these schemes, especially with a lower supply through the riser. Or when the riser supply is unknown.

Also, in my opinion, these circuits practically do not use pressure. And they use only forced circulation. Therefore, I personally do not like the bottom-bottom connection of the PS at all. And I do not advise anyone to use them only with gravitational circulation. And use only the lateral or diagonal top-bottom connection. And the bottom-bottom connection, from my point of view, to obtain a guaranteed result, can only be used with purely forced circulation, in private houses and apartments with individual autonomous heating.

Benefits of the scheme:

Works with any direction of supply in the riser.

The ability to run pipes somewhere hidden under the bathroom, without shoveling the walls.

The disadvantages of the scheme:

It is required to bleed air through Mayevsky's taps.

Less efficient than side or diagonal connections.

The upper branch of the riser with an offset or narrowed bypass must be below the connection point to the substation. This guarantees the independence of the work of the PS from the direction of filing.

The lower tap must be below the PS in all variants of this scheme.

The slope of the supply pipes must be observed (the direction is shown in the figure)

3 - 5 mm per meter.

There should be no “humps” (completely unacceptable, air will accumulate in them and
circulation will stop) or dips on horizontal routes (permissible only in
small limits, deep "pits" will air the liner to the substation).

Pipe diameter for maximum circulation - preferably at least 3/4”
(32mm for PPR), Ball Valves– not less than 3/4”. The use of pipes and taps smaller
section is allowed only with a small length of pipes leading to the substation, but in this case uneven heating may become noticeable
PS - hotter on top, colder on the bottom.

It is highly desirable to place the supply pipes in thermal insulation. Besides what it is
prerequisite when embedded in the walls of the PPR pipes, similar insulation

improves the circulation work of the PS.

It is strictly forbidden to install any taps on the bypass - this is vandalismand wrecking yourself and your neighbors. Overlapping or excessive narrowing of the bypass:

a.) It slows down the circulation in the entire riser (the temperature of hot water drops at the points of water intake of apartments).

B.) Radically worsens the water pressure in all apartments located further in the direction of supply. And with a certain location of the hot water outlet - and at the vandal himself. Indeed, when the bypass is narrowed by one pipe size, its throughput becomes approximately half as much.

B.) Does not improve the efficiency of the above scheme in any noticeable way.

Permissible options for the execution of scheme No. 2.

Figure 19: Bottom connection, acceptable design example 1.

All taps are below the PS, no conditions are violated.

Figure 20: Bottom connection, acceptable design example 2.

The top outlet is higher than the bottom of the substation.

Please note that this immediately imposes a restriction on the feed direction - only from above!
With a bottom feed, such a connection is unstable.

Scheme No. 3: lateral and diagonal connections with a narrowed or offset bypass.

Absolute majority plumbers believe that there must be a narrowing between the taps on the substation - otherwise nothing will work. Firstly, this is not the case (see diagrams Nos. 1 and 2), and secondly, in the case of a lower water supply in the riser and poor circulation, the narrowing prevents the heated towel rail from working until it is completely cooled, despite the outwardly normal connection. Therefore, if possible, it is worth striving to ensure that the diameter of the bypass is equal to the diameter of the riser.

Figure 21: Connection of a PS-ladder operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowed bypass.
Side connection.

Figure 22: PS ladder connection operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with bypass offset. Side connection.

Figure 23: Connection of a PS ladder operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowed bypass. Diagonal connection.

Figure 24: PS ladder connection operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with bypass offset. diagonal connection.

Note that the direction of supply in the riser is now unambiguously indicated by the top.
With the bottom feed, these options are categorically not recommended to use. the reasons will be described below.

Cons of this scheme:

Stable operation is guaranteed for top feed only.

The advantages of this scheme:
Definitely and stably works at the top giving in a strut.
It is not required to bleed air from the PS after turning off the water.
The distance from the riser is arbitrarily large.

Conditions for the scheme to work:

Once again, we recall that at the bottom feed, the narrowing / displacement between the taps prevents the operation of the PS up to its complete inoperability! At the top feed, the bypass can be narrowed by a maximum of 1 step from the diameter of the riser. Tapering of the offset bypass is never required at all.

The lower outlet of the riser should be below the bottom of the substation, and the upper outlet of the riser should be above the top of the substation.

It is necessary to observe the slope of the supply pipes (the direction is shown in the figure) of at least 3 mm per meter, but better than 30 mm per meter.

There should be no “humps” (completely unacceptable, air will accumulate in them and circulation will stop) or dips on horizontal routes (allowable only within small limits, deep “pits” will interfere with circulation).

Pipe diameter to ensure maximum circulation - preferably at least 3/4 "(32mm for PPR), ball valves - at least 3/4". The use of pipes and valves of a smaller cross section is allowed only with a small length of pipes leading to the substation.

It is desirable to place the supply pipes in thermal insulation. In addition to the fact that this is mandatory when embedding pipes in the walls of the PPR, such insulation will improve the operation of the substation in certain cases (sagging pipes or "pits" on them).

It is strictly forbidden to install any taps on the bypass - this is vandalismand wrecking yourself and your neighbors. Overlapping or excessive narrowing of the bypass:

a.) Slows down circulation throughout the riser (hot water temperature drops).

B.) Radically worsens the water pressure in all apartments located further in the direction of supply. And with a certain location of the hot water outlet - and at the vandal himself. Indeed, when the bypass is narrowed by one pipe size, its throughput becomes approximately half as much.

C.) It does not noticeably improve the efficiency of the above scheme, and with a lower feed, on the contrary, it interferes with the operation of the PS.

Why is my PS not working?

Let's take a look typical mistakes connection of the PS (the section will be gradually updated with links to real examples).

Figure 25: Side connection, INCORRECT example 1.

Figure 26: Bottom connection, WRONG example 2.

PS is located below the lower outlet. The water cooled in the SS and descended down is trapped in the lower part of the SS and the pipe (the stagnant zone is from the SS bottom to the level of the lower outlet), and is not pushed back into the riser, because a lighter one presses on it from above. hot water.

The substation connected with such a violation operates until a certain height difference “lower outlet - bottom of the substation” is exceeded (it is impossible to predict the exact value) - then the natural circulation in the substation stops.

Figure 27: Side connection, INCORRECT example 3.

The upper pipe forms a loop in which air accumulates - the circulation in the PS stops. Operation is possible if there is an air bleeder (automatic or Mayevsky) at the top of the pipe.

Figure 28: Side connection, INCORRECT example 4.

A combination of previous non-working cases, usually formed when trying to lay one pipe behind the ceiling, and the second in the floor screed.

The upper pipe forms a loop in which air accumulates, and the water cooled in the PS ends up in the “sump” formed by the lower pipe loop and is not pushed back into the riser. The circulation in the PS stops.

Figure 29: Side connection, INCORRECT example 5.

The performance of the side connection with an offset or narrowed bypass and a BOTTOM supply is critically dependent on the circulation in the riser.

At a low circulation rate, the PS does not work, because in the lower outlet due to displacement / narrowing, the pressure is greater than in the upper one - the circulation pump tends to supply water to the PS through the lower outlet, and the "gravity pump" inside the PS tends to lower the cooling water down. Mutually opposite flows decelerate each other and the circulation in the PS stops.

If the riser has not yet been mutilated by neighbors, and there is a powerful circulation pump in the basement, then, as a rule, the pump “wins” and circular circulation starts in the substation: hot water rises along the left collector, and cooling water descends along the right collector, gradually mixing with hot water in the left manifold through the horizontal jumpers.
However, if someone puts, for example, a barbaric tap on the bypass, the circulation rate may drop so much that the substation will stop working. Either it will either work or not, depending on the time of day (different water intake from the riser).

The diagonal connection here is even worse than the side connection. The chances of a successful launch are less, because the hydraulic resistance of the PS increases, which the pump has to overcome, and the resistance of the pump remains the same.

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An important point that determines the comfort of the bathroom will be the presence of a high-quality heated towel rail. Before making a choice, you will need to clearly determine which device will be the most suitable: with what heating principle, movable or stationary, which appearance will be preferable - ordinary, with simple lines, or the bathroom design style involves installing an original design model. An important issue will be the willingness to spend a certain amount of money on its acquisition.

How much does a heated towel rail cost

It is from the last point, i.e. the cost of a towel dryer, it is advisable to start choosing it. Devices for drying towels in the distribution network are presented so widely that any home owner who has a lot of selection criteria, such as cost, unique design, material of manufacture, will definitely find a suitable option.

As for the cost itself, it can vary significantly and depend on the size of the model, its type and design. The budget line from different manufacturers has a very reasonable price, in the range of 2-5 thousand rubles, exclusive models made of expensive brass have a price of about 180 thousand rubles. With such a wide price range, it's clear that the first step is to decide how much you can spend.

Determined by type - electric towel warmer

The second selection criterion will be to determine the type of device that is most suitable for specific conditions, it can be:

• water
• or electric.

Fears that an electrical device will become a consumer of a large amount of electricity are groundless; most models will require an amount of energy commensurate with that consumed by a light bulb to operate. Surface heating occurs due to dry heating element or mineral oil, which is used as a heat carrier. For the convenience of the user, such devices are usually equipped with an off button, which eliminates the need to constantly plug them into the outlet.

Plan the installation of a heated towel rail should be in advance, before starting finishing works. In this case, it will be possible to hide the wiring under the finishing material.

The power of some electric models will be enough to heat the entire room, but to obtain the optimal temperature, they usually combine the installation of electric heated towel rails with other heat sources.

It is rational to use the electrical model:

• in the event that the house is undergoing major repairs and there is no desire to make changes to the existing water supply system,
• if there is a need to install another heated towel rail that will work regardless of the availability of hot water, however, for a private house this issue is not relevant, rather it concerns seasonal water outages from which users of centralized hot water supply suffer,
• if there is a need to use a heated towel rail in different rooms at home, in this case, you will need to purchase a portable model.

Water heated towel rail and its features

Hot water is used to heat water models, for its supply, a hot water supply system that exists in the house (open system) or an autonomous heating system (closed) can be used.

Of course, this option for obtaining thermal energy involves obtaining significant savings in electricity. Problems begin if the installation of a heated towel rail is not provided initially, when arranging heating and hot water systems. That is why the installation of water models is usually carried out with overhauls or building a new facility.

The disadvantage of the option with connecting the heated towel rail to the heating system will be the possibility of its seasonal use - with the end of the heating season, it will stop working. If heating water for household needs in summer period is produced by a gas water heater, it is best to pay attention to models that run on electricity.

Connecting a heated towel rail to the heating or water supply system of a private house will require taking into account the maximum pressure at which the device can operate. Since the autonomous heating system of a private house works at low rates, you can safely choose a heated towel rail from among those you like - special requirements for it technical parameters will not be presented.

Connecting imported models to a centralized hot water supply system is not recommended - their operating pressure is about 1.25 atmospheres, while the pressure in the network can be from 5-7 atmospheres to 10. Taking into account the aggressiveness of the hot environment, the average service life of such devices for drying towels will be one and a half to two years.

Deciding on the design

You can find towel warmers for sale. different types, differing in:

• size,
• design,
• method of connection to the hot water supply system.

Separately, I would like to note the more expensive models with the original dual-circuit design. They have a higher cost, but they are distinguished by an unlimited service life and the ability to warm up the bathroom more efficiently.

Double circuit models have a more complex connection scheme, they are equipped with a special anti-corrosion coating and are protected against high temperature and pressure. When the coolant passes through the first circuit, heat is transferred to the second. The connection of such models is carried out without the use of soldering or other connection methods characterized by high temperature exposure.

In construction markets, you can find heated towel rails made of thin-walled pipes, equipped with their own gravity heat exchangers. Such radiators are connected to thick-walled seamless pipes embedded in the hot water supply system. The heating of the radiator occurs due to the circulation of hot water through the internal circuit. The positive point is that the radiator is protected from water hammer and direct exposure to hot water coming from the water supply system. Compensation for a certain decrease in the temperature of the radiator, which is caused by its design, occurs due to the increased area of ​​​​thermal radiation, which makes it possible to maintain a fairly high temperature in the bathroom.

When choosing a suitable device for drying towels, you should also take into account the distance between the pipes and the option of their supply: top or bottom, if side - then left or right. Standard option implies a distance between pipes of 500 mm, but you should personally make sure that in your bathroom it really complies with the standard.

Before buying a heated towel rail, you should study its passport and make sure that the device can be used specifically for the connection option you have planned - otherwise, emergencies may occur, the elimination of the consequences of which will require significant funds.

The best heated towel rail - what should be the material of its manufacture

In the manufacture of heated towel rails, the following materials are usually used:

• stainless steel - the thickness of a high-quality radiator made of such metal should be about 2-2.5 mm, their cost is quite high, cheaper stainless heated towel rails do not differ in a long service life;
• brass and copper - they are distinguished by good heat dissipation, the condition for their use in centralized water supply and heating systems is galvanization inner surface pipes;
• steel is the most durable material with a long service life, which can be guaranteed by the presence of an anti-corrosion coating on the inner surface of the pipes.

Connection options

Usually installation work installing a heated towel rail does not create any special problems, however, it is advisable to entrust the installation and connection of some models qualified specialist, at least this will keep the manufacturer's warranty. Naturally, this will cause some increase in costs.

The easiest way to do it yourself is to install electrical devices with plug. To turn them on, you need a regular outlet, and the process itself is no different from turning on all kinds of household appliances that we are used to.

Installation types

Towel dryers can be divided according to the type of installation into three groups:

• floor, most often - these are water models,
• wall-mounted, they can be electric and water,
• portable, powered by electricity, easily moved around the bathroom or transferred to other rooms.

Installation of models connected to the hot water supply of the house is carried out to the walls or floor. If the bathroom is small the best option there will be a wall model installation, a heated towel rail ladder, for example, will not take up much more space than a towel rack. Make a choice suitable model can be electric or water type.

When choosing wall models, special attention should be paid if the wall on which it is planned to install has different levels, in particular, if it is half-tiled with tiles. The model should be chosen with the expectation that it will be placed above the boundary of the cladding or below it, it may be possible to find one that can be installed on a wall with a level difference.

About installation portable device there is nothing special to say, a person who has no idea about construction or installation tools will be able to plug it into the outlet.

About design - it is recommended to approach its choice from a rational point of view

The heated towel rails offered by the distribution network have a fairly diverse design - from ultra-modern to classic. It is easy to find one that matches the style of your bathroom design, polished brass plated or chrome plated, finished in aged bronze or brushed nickel, antique gold, etc.

Models from some major manufacturers, such as the Italian Cordivari towel warmers, have a design from the most familiar and simple ladder to an exclusive, author's solution, bold and unexpected, which allows using the towel dryer as a design element.

You can also pay attention to more functional models, equipped with shelves or a robe hook. Of course, in the event that such functions are really needed, and a larger heated towel rail will not clutter up an already small bathroom. The second point concerns finances - by abandoning a multifunctional device, you can save a considerable amount.

The purchase of a device with solid dimensions can be made if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom allows its placement and if required:

• drying several towels at the same time,
• obtaining additional space heating.

Energy efficient towel warmers

A rational approach to the selection of home appliances and electric heating devices operated in the house implies the use of economical in terms of energy consumption. With this in mind, new models are equipped with mode switches and timers.

However, it is best to keep the heated towel rail constantly on - to maintain set temperature energy will be required less than for periodic heating of a completely cooled device.

As for timers, their presence allows for more comfortable operation of the device - you can set the turn-on time in advance, calculating how long it will take to heat the towels and the room itself.

Models equipped with a thermostat are no less convenient - users are given the opportunity to program the device to obtain a certain, comfortable temperature.

The device for drying hygiene items and removing excess moisture in the bathroom is simple both in device and in installation. In order to perform its installation, fundamental knowledge in the field of engineering communications construction is not required.

However, you should clearly know how to connect a heated towel rail. After all, the result of your own efforts or the work of hired plumbers should please for many years, do you agree?

In the article presented by us, all options for mounting the substation and possible complications during its connection. Verified and systematized information will be a reliable help to home craftsmen who want to do the work themselves, or who want to control the actions of workers.

We have detailed the specifics of connecting an important household appliance in the bathrooms of the old and new layouts. The problems of the owners of private houses were not ignored. The information we offer is verified in practice, supported by visual materials and video instructions.

Connection heated towel rail in a country house

The conditions of a private house are more favorable for installing a dryer. With an autonomous supply system, there is cleaner water. You can buy imported PS, which is afraid of sediment accumulation.

Typically, in such a house, a sufficiently large room is allocated for a bath, which expands the boundaries of the choice of the unit in size and shape. And connection work does not require permission from neighbors.

Regardless of where you are going to connect the heated towel rail - to the heating system or to the hot water supply at home, you cannot do without inserting the device into the pipes

The wiring diagram itself is similar to that used in apartment building. It must be remembered that the device should be connected exclusively in the direction of the water flow. With a liner length of up to 50 cm, place the pipes horizontally, with a longer one, make a slope along the entire length.

Keep the distance between the wall and the water pipe. With a pipeline diameter of 4-5 cm, choose a distance from 5 to 5.5 cm. When the diameter value is less than 2.3 cm, this gap is reduced to 3.5 cm.

Considering the temperature deformations to which hot pipes are subject, it is impossible to fix the PS on the supports by welding, the fastening must be free.

Typical mistakes of independent masters

When the lower outlet is above the extreme point of the SS with a side or bottom connection, a dead zone is formed between the bottom of the device and the connection point of the lower outlet.

This is a consequence of the fact that the cooled liquid, having dropped down, cannot get back into the riser due to the pressure on it of a column of hot water with a lower specific gravity. While the allowable height difference between the lower outlet and the bottom heated towel rail is not exceeded, the device works, and after that the circulation in it stops.

The circulation will also stop if there is an elbow formed by the upper pipe. Only a tie-in can make such a scheme work in order to periodically bleed the accumulated air. Sometimes a loop is made in the upper pipe, laying it behind the ceiling lining, and the lower pipe is immured into the floor.

Air will accumulate at the top, and the chilled water in the unit will be blocked in the lower loop located in the floor. The movement of the coolant will completely stop.

Important components of the bathroom are, in addition to the bath itself, sinks, showers and mirrors, and many other things, including a heated towel rail. This is an extremely convenient device that not only allows you to make wet towels and linen dry, but also prevents dampness. In a word, it serves as a kind of heating system for this room. And if it is better to entrust the installation of a bathroom or sink to professionals, then you can do the installation and connection of a heated towel rail with your own hands. The main thing is to know how it's done.

Types of heated towel rails

First, let's take a brief look at what towel warmers, also known as "towels", are and what materials they are made of.

Table. Types of heated towel rails according to the principle of operation.

Name and photo	Description
	The most common type of heated towel rail, "classic". It is a U-shaped coil or any other shape through which hot water is passed. It heats the pipes, and those, in turn, contribute to the rapid drying of towels and linen. It is connected either to a water riser or to a heating system. The latter is more common in private houses and cottages, since a heated towel rail connected in this way will not work most of the time in a city apartment.
	For such heated towel rails, connection to hot water or heating is not necessary - they are heated by electricity. Very convenient in terms of location - there is no need to move the riser or bring pipes, just stretch the outlet. It can be turned on only for the duration of use, thereby saving electricity. Many models of such heated towel rails are equipped with the ability to adjust.
	They are the two previous options connected together. One of the coils is heated with hot water or steam heating, the other from electricity. For the increased cost, the buyer receives high efficiency. Some models of combined heated towel rails are equipped with rotary coils, like the one shown in the image.

Towel warmers are made from the following materials:

• steel;
• brass;
• copper;
• stainless steel.

The first option is simple and cheap. Typically, these heated towel rails are the heaviest and most massive. They rarely boast beautiful appearance, but when properly processed, they are extremely reliable and durable.

Products made of brass or non-ferrous metals are often distinguished by their complex shape, attractiveness and resistance to corrosion. But, unlike steel models, they are less resistant to sudden pressure drops in the system. Copper heated towel rails attract with their efficiency - due to its properties, the metal warms up very quickly and dries wet towels at the same speed. The flip side of this is the high cost of the product.

Stainless steel heated towel rails are optimal in terms of price-quality ratio - they are beautiful, reliable, durable, not afraid of corrosion, and at the same time resistant to sudden changes in temperature and pressure.

Important! When choosing a heated towel rail, pay attention not only to the principle of operation and material, but also to the maximum allowable pressure in the system - water hammers sometimes occur in water and heating pipes, therefore it is desirable that the “towel” be able to withstand them.

Choosing a connection scheme for a water heated towel rail

Before starting plumbing work, the most important step in installing a heated towel rail is the choice of the scheme by which it will be connected. Without this, the likelihood of making an error increases, due to which the system will be inefficient or will not work at all. We will study the basic schemes for connecting heated towel rails, the rules for execution and typical shortcomings made during illiterate installation.

The simplest and most reliable scheme is the one in which the "towel" is an integral part of the riser, and, in fact, its offshoot of a U-shaped or some other shape. Thus, heated towel rails are connected in most houses with an old water supply system (unless the owners of the apartments replaced them with more advanced models).

To be able to turn off the heated towel rail or regulate the temperature of its operation without interfering with the activity of the riser, it is necessary to connect a bypass. It will be discussed in more detail in the next section of the article.

Now let's consider the first connection scheme for a heated towel rail along with taps and bypasses - with a side or diagonal supply. The difference between them is insignificant and the choice depends on your personal preferences. The effective operation of such a connection scheme is ensured when the following rules are followed.

1. When the heated towel rail is located 2 or more meters from the riser, the tie-in of the upper outlet must be higher than the connection point to the heated towel rail, and the lower one, respectively, lower. If the distance is less, direct approaches are acceptable, without a slope.
2. The pipes connecting the heated towel rail with the outlets should not have "humps" - air will begin to accumulate in them.

For some H-shaped towel warmers and large sizes the connection diagram with the bottom connection is used, as shown in the image below. As for lateral or diagonal, there are several rules for it, the execution of which will ensure the efficiency of the entire plumbing system.

1. If the diameter of the riser is greater than the diameter of the bypass or the latter is displaced, then the upper tie-in of the outlet must necessarily be located below the heated towel rail itself.
2. The lower tie-in to the riser must be located below the heated towel rail, regardless of the conditions.
3. It is advisable to cover the supply pipes with thermal insulation.
4. The presence of humps in the supply pipes is undesirable - air locks will quickly arise in these places.
5. It is necessary to mount a Mayevsky tap on the heated towel rail.

Prices for a water heated towel rail

water heated towel rail

Dismantling of the old heated towel rail, installation of bypass and taps

Direct plumbing work on installing a "towel" begins with dismantling old design, in most cases, which is a U- or M-shaped pipe, which belongs to the main riser and has a common diameter with it. With its simplicity and cheapness, such a heated towel rail does not have an attractive appearance.

The dismantling process is as follows.

Step 1. First, turn off the hot water supply in the riser. To do this, contact the Housing Office or the partnership serving your home, submit an appropriate application and, if necessary, pay a fee for the provision of the service. The plumber who came on your call will make a temporary overlap of the riser.

Step 2 Check if the hot water supply is turned off. To do this, open the corresponding faucet on the sink or bathtub.

Step 3 If the old heated towel rail is connected to the riser with a threaded connection, unscrew it with a plumbing wrench.

Important! Be prepared for the fact that some water may remain inside the heated towel rail. It is advisable to lay a rag under it in advance or put a container under the junction with the riser.

Step 4 Dismantling an old heated towel rail with a plumbing wrench is a lot of luck - most often the “towel” is welded to the riser or threaded connections have “been stuck” for many years. In this case, use the grinder. In the process of working with it, do not cut off the excess - the remaining part of the pipe should be enough to cut threads for future fittings.

Step 5 After cutting or unscrewing from the riser, remove the “towel” from your fasteners to the wall and put it somewhere far away. The next stage of work is the creation of a bypass, the installation of taps and connections to the future heated towel rail.

Bypass (or in translation “bypass”) is a section of the pipe between the outlets on the heated towel rail, which gives the water in the riser the opportunity to go “past” the heated towel rail in cases where it is blocked. Its presence solves several problems at once.

1. The bypass allows you to mount valves at the inlet and outlet of the heated towel rail to control the temperature. In addition, it can be used to completely shut off the water supply to the "towel" without turning off the riser, which is especially convenient in case of repair or replacement of such equipment.
2. The bypass separates the hot water flows in the riser - one goes to the heated towel rail, and the second goes further to the neighbors, while maintaining its temperature unchanged.
3. The bypass on the heated towel rail ensures the normal circulation of hot water in the riser along its entire height.

Examples of different schemes for installing bypasses between taps are shown in the images below.

Important! Among plumbers, a controversial issue is the diameter and location of the bypass pipe for a heated towel rail. Some are sure that it will work effectively only with a narrowed and offset bypass. But this is not the case - a direct bypass with a diameter equal to that of the riser works great both with top and bottom feed. The image below is proof of that.

Often on the Internet you can find such diagrams and photographs, where the bypass is equipped with a valve valve. The presence of this faucet is another point of contention among plumbers. From the point of view of building codes, unauthorized installation in the riser (and in this case the bypass is formally considered to be one) of such devices that are not provided for by the project is a gross violation. In addition, installing a bypass faucet reduces the pressure and temperature of hot water in the following apartments. Therefore, its presence may be the subject of claims against you by the management company or neighbors.

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of a heated towel rail

Installing and connecting a water heated towel rail - step by step instructions

So, the removal of the old coil is completed, the bypass, taps and supply pipes are installed. Now consider step by step instructions for installing and connecting a water heated towel rail with your own hands.

Step 1. Select the fittings needed to connect the heated towel rail to the taps under it. In this case, corner models are used. In addition to the fittings themselves, look for decorative cups (also called reflectors) that cover the connection.

Step 2 Stick the FUM tape on the threaded surface of the fittings - it is necessary to seal the connection. If desired, use tow instead.

Stick the FUM tape on the threaded surface of the fitting in such a way that when it is screwed into the pipe, its end does not bulge

Step 3 Finish applying the FUM tape as follows: roll it into a kind of “thread” and apply it at the thread run. Thus, when installing the fitting, this part of the tape will press against the wall and will play the role of an o-ring.

Step 4 Screw the fitting together with the applied decorative reflector in internal thread pipes connected to the taps for the heated towel rail. Due to the use of the FUM tape, this will require some effort. Be careful not to strip the thread while doing this.

Step 5 In the same way, apply FUM tape or tow to the second fitting and twist it, connecting it to the outlet from the riser.

Step 6 Install rubber or polyurethane sealing rings inside the fittings.

Step 7 Attach the heated towel rail itself to the fittings and the wall, "bait" it to check if the distance between the fittings is correct. Then mark the points on the wall where you need to make holes for the brackets or holders.

Step 8 Now you need to make holes in the ceramics and concrete behind it to install fasteners under the heated towel rail. To begin with, fasten the tile with a self-tapping screw - attach it to the surface and lightly tap it several times with a hammer. This action is necessary so that the drill does not jump to the side during the creation of the hole.

Important! Such an action requires special care - if careless, cracks or chips can be left on the tile. In some cases, instead of punching, builders advise simply sticking a plaster or paper tape crosswise on the drilling site.

Step 9 At low speeds, with extreme caution, make in ceramic tiles holes for mounting the towel warmer. To do this, it is advisable to use either a special spear-shaped drill, or a well-sharpened concrete one.

Step 10 After that, at high speeds, make a hole for fasteners in the concrete located behind the tile.

Step 11 Insert plastic dowels into the resulting holes.

Step 12 If the ends of the dowels stick out of the holes, cut them off with a knife, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve a snug fit of the holder or bracket.

Step 13 Re-attach the heated towel rail to the fittings, while checking if the position of the o-rings in it has changed during the time you created the holes for the holders.

Step 14 Secure the towel holder to the fittings by hand-tightening the appropriate nuts.

Step 15 Now tighten these nuts so that the "towel" is securely fixed. To do this, use a plumbing key and a rag - the latter will protect the nickel-plated surface from scratches. It is enough to make two turns.

Step 16 Move the decorative cups away from the wall and turn the valves on the outlets so that water flows into the heated towel rail. Check the tightness of the connections - whether it drips from there.

Step 17 If everything is in order, the final touch remains - screw into the holes for the fasteners, where the dowels and self-tapping screws were previously inserted. Check how tight the heated towel rail is. On this, its installation and connection with your own hands can be considered completely and successfully completed.

The installation of an electric heated towel rail takes place in a similar way - according to the instructions, the product is assembled, holes are created in the wall for holders or brackets and the “towel” is installed on them. The difference is that for such models you need an outlet, which is desirable to be located away from the bathroom. If desired and possible, you can make hidden installation, when the power cable goes into the wall and connects to the electrical wiring there.

Regardless of the type of heated towel rail and the material from which it is made, the reliability, durability and efficiency of the device directly depend on the choice right way connection and correct installation. With the right approach to business, anyone can handle it!

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How to connect a heated towel rail to heating?

What do we have to do?

A towel dryer is a device in the form of a pipe designed for drying towels. According to the type of coolant, the device is divided into electric and water type. And although an electric device has more advantages, it is the water type of device that is most often used. Water heated towel rails can be connected to two hot water systems: to a water supply system or a heating system. The first option is more often chosen, since tap hot water is always supplied, but heating works only in the cold season.

How to connect the heated towel rail to the heating system?

The scheme is quite simple, the whole process consists of the following steps:

• dismantling of old equipment (if it was previously);
• installation of a bypass (i.e. jumpers) and ball valves;
• connecting a heated towel rail;
• quality control of the work performed, connections.

When connecting the device to the heating system, it is important to know that the installation is carried out in the warm season, when the heating season is closed, since the coolant supply must be turned off. IN winter time no one will do it. It is worth noting that electric type device does not require similar actions.

The following materials are required for installation:

• heated towel rail with fasteners (comes, as a rule, in a complete set);
• ball valve - 3 pieces;
• stainless pipe (for bypass).

After the materials are prepared, you can start work. Instructions for work are presented below.

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Preparatory work

Dismantling the old device. Before proceeding with the dismantling of the old appliance, it is necessary to turn off the water supply in the heating system. Shutdown should be coordinated with the relevant services (housing office, management company). If the towel dryer is connected to pipes with threaded connections, then it is enough to simply unscrew it and remove it from the fasteners. If the device is welded to pipes, then it is necessary to cut it off with a grinder. In this case, a piece of pipe should be left on which threading will be carried out.

Installation of bypass and taps. A bypass is required to circulate water in the event that the heated towel rail is turned off. This is a kind of jumper, on which it is also necessary to install a ball valve. A tap is required to supply and disconnect water to pass through the bypass (the electrical device does not require the installation of additional elements).

To properly connect the bypass, you must. The circuit is also very simple. To do this, threads are cut on the pipes (if there was none). A ball valve is installed at the inlet and outlet of the coolant from the coil. When installing, it is necessary to carefully check the tightness of the connection so that there are no leaks in the future.