Currently, there is a catastrophic situation with unskilled intervention in the operation of general house systems, in particular, during the installation or alteration of heated towel rails (PS) connected to hot water supply risers.

This article describes the principles of PS functioning, provides examples of both competent connection and initially non-working or unstable options with an explanation of the reasons for their inoperability.

I will make a reservation that the article will talk about relatively new houses in which heated towel rails are connected to the same hot water supply riser, from which hot water is supplied to the apartments. But in some houses (the overwhelming percentage of the secondary housing stock), a separate hot water recirculation riser is intended for heated towel rails. Or the heated towel rail is powered by central heating, i.e. SS do not work in summer. The topic of this article does not apply to such houses.

All schemes and photos are enlarged when you click on them.

A bit of history, old types of PS.

Twenty years ago, the substation "from the developer" was a monolithic riser pipe bent in the form of the letter P or M.

Figure 1: U-shaped PS, which is part of the riserand.

Figure 2: M-shaped PS that is part of the riser.

Despite the unsightly appearance, this type of substation had undeniable advantages: it was constantly hot, did not introduce any noticeable hydraulic resistance and did not allow residents to disrupt the operation of the hot water supply (DHW) riser in any way.

However, time passed, and tenants in the old housing stock, making repairs, changed the old and ugly substation for a new and shiny one. In a good scenario, it turned out like this:

Figure 3: New substation, which is part of the riser, competent replacement.

The diameter of the PS corresponds to the diameter of the riser, the connection is made without narrowing and without shut-off valves (valves).

In an unfortunate scenario, like this:

Figure 4: New substation, which is part of the riser, illiterate replacement.

Four extra narrowings appeared in the riser from the used fittings:

Figure 5: Internal cross-section of a plastic pipe fitting.

But it can be much worse:

Figure 6: The new PS, which is part of the riser, is an absolutely illiterate replacement.

In addition to the narrowings already mentioned above, shut-off valves have been added. When any of them are shut off in the riser, the circulation completely stops, the pressure in the apartments following in the direction of supply drops to zero (water can somehow come from the "return" line), the riser cools down in the absence of draw-off, when the mixer is opened, it takes a long time to drain cold water ...

Installation of shut-off and control valves (valves) on risers is strictly prohibited!

Outlets from the hot water riser for heated towel rails.

Over time, developers began to apply more modern technologies and instead of a bent terrible pipe, they began to make two branches from the riser for connecting the substation at the choice of the residents themselves. However, unfortunately, neither the type, nor the height of these bends from the floor, nor the distance between them are in any way standardized. This leads to massive problems when connecting the PS, which will be discussed below.

Figure 7: Riser taps, unbiased and unconstrained by-pass.

Figure 8: Riser bends, tapered by-pass.

Figure 9: Riser taps, offset unconstrained bypass.

There is always a bypass between the taps - a pipe section with a diameter equal to the diameter of the riser or 1 step less.

The bypass at the heated towel rail solves several problems:

• Maintaining a normal circulation rate throughout the hot water (HW) riser. Forced circulation in the riser ensures the supply of evenly hot water (according to the norms - 60 degrees) to any apartment, on any floor, regardless of its distance from the beginning of the supply to the riser.
• Only part of the total flow (water) passes through one SS, the other part goes by, keeping more heat for the next bathrooms. Indeed, one or two dozen heated towel rails can work from one riser.
• It is possible to completely turn off the substation or adjust its temperature by residents without affecting the rest of the apartments (the latter requires the installation of an additional control valve on one of the taps, since it is impossible to regulate anything with a ball valve).

Let's talk about physics. Gravity pump in PS.

If the performance of the PS with a narrowed or offset bypass still somehow fits in the heads of plumbers who think in categories "push - will not push", then the circuit without displacement of the bypass and without constriction of the riser plunges them into a complete stupor: "All the water passes by the towel! It won't flow there! It can never work! "

However, the PS works great with this connection! Its performance is based on the "gravity pump":

improves the circulation of the PS by increasing the head of the "gravity pump" in the PS itself.

a.) Slows down the circulation in the entire riser (the temperature of hot water drops from the draw-off points in the apartments).

Improvement of the circulation according to this scheme allows the local widening of the unbiased (axial) bypass in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper branch to the substation. A photo of such a bypass is shown below.

Permissible variants of the scheme №1.

.

Figure 14: Lateral connection, example of correct execution.

The PS is located vertically entirely between the taps, no conditions for the operability of the circuit are violated.

Figure 15: Lateral connection, example of a valid design.

The top of the PS is located above the top bend. It will be necessary to bleed air from the substation after turning off the water.

Scheme No. 2: bottom connection.

Less efficient than lateral, it has advantages and disadvantages.

Figure 16: Connection of a substation ladder operating on natural circulation, without narrowing and without shifting the bypass. Bottom connection.

Figure 17: SS ladder connection operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a bypass offset. Bottom connection.

Figure 18: Connection of a substation ladder, operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowed bypass. Bottom connection.

The opinion of the site author:

In my opinion, the operation of circuits No. 16-18 may be unstable at the lower flow through the riser. Or even completely impossible.

Especially schemes No. 17-18. Therefore, I would not advise using these schemes, especially with a lower flow through a riser. Or when the riser flow is unknown.

Also, in my opinion, these schemes practically do not use pressure. And only forced circulation is used. Therefore, personally to me, I absolutely do not like the bottom-bottom connections of the PS. And I do not advise anyone to use them only with gravitational circulation. And use only lateral or diagonal top-bottom connection. And the connection "bottom-bottom", from my point of view, to obtain a guaranteed result can be used only with purely forced circulation, in private houses and apartments with individual autonomous heating.

The advantages of the scheme:

Works in any direction of flow in the riser.

The ability to run pipes somewhere hidden under the bathroom, without breaking the walls.

Disadvantages of the scheme:

Air bleeding is required through the Mayevsky taps.

Less efficient than lateral or diagonal connections.

The upper branch of the riser with an offset or narrowed bypass must be below the connection point to the substation. This guarantees the independence of the PS from the direction of supply.

The lower branch must be lower than the PS in all variants of this scheme.

Observe the slope of the supply pipes (direction shown in the figure)

3 - 5 mm per meter.

There should be no "humps" (completely unacceptable, they will accumulate air and
circulation will stop) or dips on horizontal routes (allowed only in
small limits, deep "pits" will air the liner to the substation).

Pipe diameter for maximum circulation - preferably at least 3/4 "
(32mm for PPR), ball Valves - not less than 3/4 ”. Use of pipes and valves of smaller
section is allowed only with a small length of pipes leading to the substation, but in this case, uneven heating may become noticeable
PS - hotter from above, colder from below.

It is highly desirable to place the supply pipes in thermal insulation. Besides what it is
a prerequisite when embedded in PPR pipes walls, similar insulation

improves the circulation of the PS.

It is strictly forbidden to install any valves on the bypass - this is vandalismand sabotaging yourself and your neighbors. Overlapping or excessive narrowing of the bypass:

a.) Slows down the circulation in the entire riser (the temperature of hot water drops at the draw-off points of the apartments).

B.) Radically worsens the water pressure in all apartments located further downstream. And with a certain location of the hot water outlet - and at the vandal himself. Indeed, when the bypass is narrowed by one standard size of pipes, its throughput becomes approximately half as much.

B.) Does not significantly improve the efficiency of the above scheme.

Permissible variants of the scheme No. 2.

Figure 19: Bottom connection, example of permissible design 1.

All taps are below the PS, no conditions are violated.

Figure 20: Bottom connection, example of a permissible design 2.

The upper branch is higher than the bottom of the SS.

Please note that this immediately imposes a restriction on the feed direction - only from the top!
With a bottom feed, such a connection is unstable.

Scheme 3: lateral and diagonal connections with a narrowed or offset bypass.

Absolute majority plumbers believe that there must be a narrowing between the taps on the substation - otherwise nothing will work. Firstly, this is not the case (see schemes No. 1 and 2), and secondly, in the case of a lower water supply in the riser and weak circulation, the narrowing prevents the heated towel rail from working until it is completely cooled, despite an apparently normal connection. Therefore, if possible, it is worth striving to ensure that the diameter of the bypass is equal to the diameter of the riser.

Figure 21: Connection of a substation ladder, operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowed bypass.
Side connection.

Figure 22: Connection of a substation ladder using a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a bypass offset. Side connection.

Figure 23: Connection of a substation ladder, operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowed bypass. Diagonal connection.

Figure 24: SS ladder connection using a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a bypass offset. Diagonal connection.

Note that the direction of flow in the riser is now clearly indicated by the top.
At bottom feeding, these options are strongly discouraged., the reasons will be described below.

Cons of this scheme:

Stable operation is guaranteed only for the top feed.

Pros of this scheme:
Unambiguously and stably works at the top delivery in the riser.
It is not required to bleed air from the substation after turning off the water.
The distance from the riser is arbitrarily large.

Circuit operability conditions:

Let us remind once again that at the bottom feed, the narrowing / displacement between the taps prevents the PS from working up to its complete inoperability! At top flow, the bypass can be narrowed by a maximum of 1 step from the riser diameter. The narrowing of the offset bypass is never required at all.

The lower branch of the riser must be below the bottom of the substation, and the upper branch of the riser - above the top of the substation.

It is necessary to observe the slope of the supply pipes (direction shown in the figure) at least 3mm per meter, but better than 30mm per meter.

There should be no "humps" (completely unacceptable, they will accumulate air and the circulation will stop) or dips on horizontal routes (only allowed within small limits, deep "holes" will interfere with circulation).

Diameter of pipes for maximum circulation is desirable not less than 3/4 "(32mm for PPR), ball valves - not less than 3/4". The use of pipes and valves of smaller cross-section is allowed only with a small length of pipes supplying to the substation.

It is desirable to place the supply pipes in thermal insulation. In addition to the fact that it is mandatory when embedding pipes into the walls of PPR, such insulation will improve the work of the PS in certain cases (sagging pipes or "holes" on them).

It is strictly forbidden to install any valves on the bypass - this is vandalismand sabotaging yourself and your neighbors. Overlapping or excessive narrowing of the bypass:

a.) Slows down the circulation in the entire riser (hot water temperature drops).

B.) Radically worsens the water pressure in all apartments located further downstream. And with a certain location of the hot water outlet - and at the vandal himself. Indeed, when the bypass is narrowed by one standard size of pipes, its throughput becomes approximately half as much.

V.) Does not significantly improve the efficiency of the above scheme, and with a lower feed, on the contrary, it interferes with the work of the PS.

Why doesn't my PS work?

Let's analyze typical mistakes connecting PS (the section will be gradually updated with links to real examples).

Figure 25: Lateral connection, example of WRONG version 1.

Figure 26: Bottom connection, example WRONG version 2.

PS is located below the lower outlet. The water cooled down in the PS and descending downward turns out to be in a trap formed by the lower part of the PS and the pipe (the stagnant zone is from the bottom of the PS to the level of the lower outlet), and is not pushed back into the riser, since the lighter one presses on it from above. hot water.

A substation connected with a similar violation works as long as a certain height difference “lower branch - bottom of the substation” is not exceeded (the exact value cannot be predicted) - then the natural circulation in the substation stops.

Figure 27: Lateral connection, example of WRONG version 3.

The upper pipe forms a loop in which air accumulates - the circulation in the PS stops. Operation is possible if there is an air vent (automatic or Mayevsky) at the top of the pipe.

Figure 28: Lateral connection, example of WRONG version 4.

A combination of previous non-working cases, usually formed when trying to lay one pipe behind the ceiling, and the second in the floor screed.

The upper pipe forms a loop in which air accumulates, and the water cooled in the PS ends up in the "sump" formed by the loop of the lower pipe and is not pushed back into the riser. The circulation in the substation stops.

Figure 29: Lateral connection, example of WRONG version 5.

The performance of a side connection with an offset or narrowed bypass and a LOWER flow critically depends on the circulation in the riser.

At a low circulation rate, the PS does not work, since in the lower outlet, due to displacement / narrowing, the pressure is greater than in the upper one - the circulation pump tends to supply water to the PS through the lower outlet, and the "gravity pump" inside the PS tends to lower the cooling water way down. Mutually opposite flows inhibit each other and circulation in the PS stops.

If the riser has not yet been mutilated by the neighbors, and there is a powerful circulation pump in the basement, then as a rule the pump "wins" and circular circulation starts in the substation: hot water rises along the left collector, and on the right, the cooling water goes down, gradually mixing with hot water. the left collector through the horizontal jumpers.
However, if someone puts, for example, a barbaric tap on the bypass, the circulation rate can drop so much that the substation stops working. Either it will work, it will not, depending on the time of day (different water intake from the riser).

The diagonal connection is even worse than the side connection. The chances of a successful launch are less because the hydraulic resistance of the PS increases, which the pump has to overcome, and the pump's reaction remains the same.

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An important point that determines the comfort of the bathroom will be the availability of a high-quality heated towel rail. Before making a choice, you will need to clearly determine which device will be most suitable: with which heating principle, movable or stationary, which appearance will be preferable - ordinary, with simple lines, or the bathroom design style involves the installation of an original design model. An important issue will be the willingness to spend a certain amount of money on its purchase.

How much does a heated towel rail cost

It is from the last point, i.e. the cost of a towel dryer, it is advisable to start choosing it. Devices for drying towels in the trade network are so widely represented that any home owner who has a lot of selection criteria, such as cost, uniqueness of design, material of manufacture, will definitely find a suitable option.

As for the cost itself, it can differ significantly and depend on the size of the model, its type and design. The budget line from different manufacturers has a very reasonable price, in the range of 2-5 thousand rubles, exclusive models made of expensive brass have a price of about 180 thousand rubles. Given such a vast price range, it becomes clear that the first step is still to decide how much you can spend.

Determined by type - electric heated towel rail

The second selection criterion will be to determine the type of device that is most suitable for specific conditions, it can be:

• water
• or electric.

Fears that an electrical device will consume a large amount of electricity are groundless; most models will require an amount of energy commensurate with that consumed by an electric light bulb. The surface is heated by dry heating oil or mineral oil, which is used as a heat carrier. For the convenience of the user, such devices are usually equipped with an off button, which eliminates the need to constantly plug them into the outlet.

Planning the installation of a heated towel rail should be in advance, before starting finishing works... In this case, it will be possible to hide the electrical wiring under the finishing material.

The power of some electric models will be sufficient to heat the entire room, but to obtain the optimal temperature, the installation of electric towel warmers is usually combined with other heat sources.

It is rational to use the electric model:

• if the house is undergoing major repairs and there is no desire to make changes to the existing water supply system,
• if there is a need to install another heated towel rail, which will work regardless of the availability of hot water, however, for a private house this issue is not relevant, rather it concerns seasonal water outages from which users of centralized hot water supply suffer,
• if there is a need to use a heated towel rail in different rooms at home, in this case, you will need to purchase a portable model.

Heated towel rail and its features

Hot water is used to heat water models; hot water supply system that exists in the house (open system) or an autonomous heating system (closed) can be used for its supply.

Of course, this option for obtaining thermal energy presupposes significant savings in electrical energy. Problems begin if the installation of a heated towel rail is not provided initially, when arranging heating and hot water supply systems. That is why the installation of water models is usually carried out at overhauls or building a new facility.

The disadvantage of the option with connecting a heated towel rail to the heating system will be the possibility of its seasonal use - with the end of the heating season, it will stop working. If heating water for household needs is summer period produced by a gas water heater, it is best to pay attention to models that run on electricity.

Connecting a heated towel rail to the heating or water supply system of a private house will require taking into account the maximum pressure at which the device can operate. Since the autonomous heating system of a private house works at low rates, you can safely choose a heated towel rail from among the ones you like - special requirements for it technical parameters will not be presented.

It is not recommended to connect imported models to a centralized hot water supply system - their working pressure is about 1.25 atmospheres, while the pressure in the network can range from 5-7 atmospheres to 10. Taking into account the aggressiveness of the hot environment, the average service life of such devices for drying towels will take one and a half to two years.

Determining the design

You can find heated towel rails on sale different typesdiffering in:

• sizes,
• design,
• method of connection to the hot water supply system.

Separately, I would like to note the more expensive models with the original double-circuit design. They have a higher cost, but they have an unlimited service life and the ability to heat up the bathroom in a better quality.

Double-circuit models have a more complex connection diagram, they are equipped with a special anti-corrosion coating and are protected against high temperature and pressure. When the coolant passes through the first circuit, heat is transferred to the second. The connection of such models is carried out without the use of soldering or other connection methods characterized by high-temperature exposure.

In building markets you can find heated towel rails made of thin-walled pipes, equipped with their own gravity heat exchangers... Such radiators are connected to thick-walled seamless pipes embedded in the hot water supply system. The radiator is heated by circulating hot water along the internal circuit. On the positive side, the radiator is protected from water hammer and the direct impact of hot water coming from the water supply system. Compensation for a slight decrease in the temperature of the radiator, which is caused by its design, occurs due to the increased area of \u200b\u200bthermal radiation, which allows maintaining a fairly high temperature in the bathroom.

When choosing a suitable device for drying towels, you should also take into account the distance between the pipes and the option of their supply: upper or lower, if lateral, then left or right. Standard Option implies a distance between pipes equal to 500 mm, but you should personally make sure that it really complies with the norm in your bathroom.

Before buying a heated towel rail, you should study its passport and make sure that the device can be used exactly for the connection option you have planned - otherwise, emergency situations may occur, which will require significant funds to eliminate the consequences.

The best heated towel rail - what should be the material of its manufacture

In the manufacture of heated towel rails, the following materials are usually used:

• stainless steel - the thickness of a high-quality radiator made of such metal should be about 2-2.5 mm, their cost is quite high, cheaper stainless heated towel rails do not differ in a long service life;
• brass and copper - they are distinguished by good heat transfer, the condition for their use in centralized water supply and heating systems is galvanization inner surface pipes;
• steel is the most durable material with a long service life, which can be guaranteed by the presence of an anti-corrosion coating on the inner surface of the pipes.

Connection options

Usually assembly work they do not create any special problems for installing a heated towel rail, however, it is advisable to entrust the installation and connection of some models a qualified specialist, at least this will preserve the manufacturer's warranty. Naturally, this will cause some increase in costs.

The easiest way is to do the installation yourself electrical devices with a plug. To turn them on, a regular outlet is required, and the process itself is no different from the usual turning on of all kinds of household appliances.

Installation types

Towel dryers can be divided into three groups according to the type of installation:

• floor-standing, most often these are water models,
• wall-mounted, they can be electric and water,
• portable, powered by electricity, easily moved around the bathroom or carried to other rooms.

Installation of models connected to the hot water supply of the house is carried out to the walls or floor. If the bathroom is small, then the best option there will be a wall model installation, a ladder heated towel rail, for example, will not take up much more space than a towel rail. Make a choice suitable model can be electric or water type.

When choosing wall models, special attention should be paid if the wall on which the installation is planned has different levels, in particular, if it is half tiled tiled tiles... The model should be chosen with the expectation that it will be placed above or below the cladding boundary, it may be possible to find one that can be installed on a wall with a level difference.

There is nothing special to say about the installation of a portable device; a person who has no idea about construction or assembly tools can plug it into the outlet.

About design - it is recommended to approach its choice from a rational point of view

Heated towel rails offered by the retail chain have a fairly diverse design - from ultra-modern to classic. It is not difficult to find the right style for the bathroom design, finished in polished brass or chrome, finished in aged bronze or brushed nickel, antique gold, etc.

Models from some large manufacturers, such as the Italian Cordivari heated towel rails, have a design from the most familiar and simple ladder to an exclusive, author's solution, bold and unexpected, allowing you to use the towel dryer as a design element.

You can also pay attention to more functional models, equipped with shelves or a crochet for a robe. Of course, in the event that such functions are really necessary, and a larger heated towel rail will not clutter up an already small bathroom. The second point concerns finances - by abandoning a multifunctional device, you can save a considerable amount.

The purchase of a device with solid dimensions can be made if the bathroom area allows its placement and if required:

• drying several towels at the same time,
• obtaining additional heating of the room.

Energy efficient heated towel rails

A rational approach to the selection of home appliances and electric heating devices used in the house implies the use of energy-efficient in terms of energy consumption. With this in mind, new models are equipped with mode switches and timers.

Nevertheless, it is most beneficial to keep the heated towel rail always on - to maintain set temperature less energy is required than periodically heating a completely cooled device.

As for the timers, their presence allows more comfortable operation of the device - you can set the turn-on time in advance, calculating how long it will take to heat the towels and the room itself.

Models equipped with a thermostat are no less convenient - users are given the opportunity to program the device to obtain a certain, comfortable temperature.

The device for drying hygiene items and removing excess moisture in the bathroom is simple both in the device and in the installation. In order to carry out its installation, fundamental knowledge in the field of construction of utilities is not required.

However, you should clearly know how to connect a heated towel rail. After all, the result of your own efforts or the work of hired plumbers should delight for many years, do you agree?

In the article presented by us, all options for installing the PS and possible complications during its connection are analyzed in detail. Verified and systematized information will become a reliable help for home craftsmen who want to do the work with their own hands, or who want to control the actions of workers.

We set out in detail the specifics of connecting an important device in everyday life in the bathrooms of the old and new layout patterns. The problems of the owners of private houses were not ignored. The information we offer has been tested in practice, supported by visual materials and video instructions.

Connection heated towel rail in a country house

The conditions of a private house are more favorable for installing a dryer. With an autonomous supply system, the water is cleaner here. You can buy imported PS, which is afraid of sediment accumulation.

Usually in such a house a sufficiently large room is allocated for the bath, which expands the boundaries of the choice of the unit in terms of size and shape. And you don't need permission from your neighbors for connection work.

Regardless of where you are going to connect the heated towel rail, you cannot do without inserting the device into the pipes into the heating system or in the hot water supply at home

The connection diagram itself is similar to that used in apartment building... It must be remembered that the device should only be connected in the direction of the water flow. With a liner length of up to 50 cm, place the pipes horizontally, with a larger one - make a slope along the entire length.

Observe the distance between the wall and the water pipe. With a pipeline diameter of 4-5 cm, choose a distance from 5 to 5.5 cm.When the diameter value is less than 2.3 cm, then this gap is reduced to 3.5 cm.

Taking into account the thermal deformations to which hot pipes are subject, it is impossible to fix the substation on the supports by welding, the fastening must be free.

Typical mistakes of independent craftsmen

When, with a side or bottom connection, the lower outlet is above the extreme point of the SS, a stagnant zone forms between the bottom of the device and the connection point of the lower outlet.

This is a consequence of the fact that the cooled liquid, having gone down, cannot return to the riser due to the pressure on it of a column of hot water with a lower specific gravity. While the permissible height difference between the lower elbow and the bottom heated towel rail is not exceeded, the device works, and then the circulation in it stops.

The circulation will also stop if there is a bend formed by the upper pipe. Only a tie-in can make such a scheme work in order to periodically bleed off the accumulated air. Sometimes a loop is made in the upper pipe, laying it behind the ceiling sheathing, and the lower pipe is walled into the floor.

Air will accumulate at the top, and the chilled water in the unit will be blocked in the lower loop located in the floor. The movement of the coolant will completely stop.

Important components of the bathroom are, in addition to the bath itself, sinks, shower and mirrors, and many other things, including a heated towel rail. This is an extremely convenient device that not only allows you to keep wet towels and laundry dry, but also prevents dampness. In a word, it serves as a kind of heating system for a given room. And if it is better to entrust the installation of a bathroom or sink to professionals, then the installation and connection of a heated towel rail can be done by hand. The main thing is to know how it is done.

Types of heated towel rails

First, let's take a quick look at what towel warmers, also known as "towels", are, and what materials they are made of.

Table. Types of heated towel rails according to the principle of operation.

Name and photo	Description
	The most common type of heated towel rail, "classic". It is a U-shaped or any other coil through which hot water is passed. It heats the pipes, which, in turn, help the towels and linen dry quickly. It is connected either to a plumbing pipe or to a heating system. The latter is more common in private houses and cottages, since a heated towel rail connected in this way will not work most of the time in a city apartment.
	For such heated towel rails, a connection to hot water or heating is not needed - they are heated by electricity. They are very convenient in terms of location - there is no need to move the riser or bring pipes, just stretch the outlet. Can only be switched on for the duration of use, thereby saving energy. Many models of such heated towel rails are supplied with the ability to adjust.
	These are the two previous options linked together. One of the coils is heated with hot water or steam heatingthe other is from electricity. For the increased cost, the buyer gets high efficiency. Some models of combined towel warmers are equipped with swiveling coils, such as the one shown in the picture.

Heated towel rails are made from the following materials:

• steel;
• brass;
• copper;
• stainless steel.

The first option is simple and cheap. Typically, these heated towel rails are the heaviest and most massive. They rarely boast beautiful appearancebut, when properly processed, are extremely reliable and durable.

Products made of brass or non-ferrous metals are often characterized by a complex shape, attractiveness and resistance to corrosion. But, unlike steel models, they are less resistant to sudden pressure drops in the system. Copper heated towel rails attract with their efficiency - due to their properties, the metal heats up very quickly and dries wet towels at the same speed. The downside of this is the high cost of the product.

Heated towel rails made of stainless steel are optimal in terms of price-quality ratio - they are beautiful, reliable, durable, not afraid of corrosion, while being resistant to sudden changes in temperature and pressure.

Important! When choosing a heated towel rail, pay attention not only to the principle of operation and material, but also to the maximum allowable pressure in the system - water shocks sometimes occur in water supply and heating pipes, therefore it is desirable that the "towel" be able to withstand them.

Choosing a connection diagram for a water heated towel rail

Before the start of the plumbing work itself, the most important stage in installing a heated towel rail is the choice of the scheme according to which it will be connected. Without this, the likelihood of making mistakes increases, due to which the system will be ineffective or not work at all. We will study the basic wiring diagrams of heated towel rails, execution rules and typical flaws allowed in case of illiterate installation.

The simplest and most reliable scheme is considered to be one in which the "towel" is an integral part of the riser, and, in fact, its branch of a U-shaped or some other shape. Thus, heated towel rails are connected in most houses with an old water supply system (if the apartment owners did not replace them with more advanced models).

In order to be able to turn off the heated towel rail or regulate the temperature of its operation without interfering with the activity of the riser, it is necessary to connect a bypass. It will be discussed in more detail in the next section of the article.

Now we will consider the first connection diagram of a heated towel rail together with taps and bypasses - with a side or diagonal supply. The difference between them is insignificant and the choice depends on your personal preference. The effective operation of such a connection scheme is ensured when the following rules are met.

1. When a heated towel rail is located 2 or more meters from the riser, the inset of the upper outlet should be higher than the connection point to the heated towel rail, and the lower one, respectively, lower. If the distance is less, straight leads are permissible, without a slope.
2. The pipes connecting the heated towel rail with the outlets should not have “humps” - air will start to accumulate in them.

For some H-shaped and large heated towel rails, the bottom connection diagram shown in the image below is used. As for the side or diagonal, there are several rules for it, the implementation of which will ensure the efficiency of the entire plumbing system.

1. If the diameter of the riser is greater than the diameter of the bypass or the latter is displaced, then the upper inset of the outlet must necessarily be located below the heated towel rail itself.
2. The lower inset in the riser should be located below the heated towel rail, regardless of conditions.
3. It is advisable to cover the supply pipes with thermal insulation.
4. The presence of humps in the supply pipes is undesirable - air locks will quickly appear in these places.
5. It is necessary to mount a Mayevsky tap on the heated towel rail.

Prices for a water heated towel rail

water heated towel rail

Dismantling of the old heated towel rail, installation of the bypass and taps

Direct plumbing work on the installation of the "towel" begins with dismantling old construction, in most cases, it is a U- or M-shaped pipe that belongs to the main riser and has a common diameter with it. With its simplicity and low cost, such a heated towel rail does not have an attractive appearance.

The process of dismantling it is as follows.

Step 1. First, turn off the hot water supply in the riser. To do this, contact the housing office or the partnership serving your house, submit an application and, if necessary, pay a fee for the provision of the service. The plumber, who came on your call, will temporarily block the riser.

Step 2. Check if the hot water supply is turned off. To do this, open the corresponding tap on the sink or bathtub.

Step 3. If the old heated towel rail is connected to the riser with a threaded connection, unscrew it with a plumbing wrench.

Important! Be prepared for the fact that some water may remain inside the heated towel rail. It is advisable to lay a rag under it in advance or place a container under the junction with the riser.

Step 4. Dismantling an old heated towel rail using a plumbing wrench is a great luck - most often the "towel" is welded to the riser or threaded connections have "stuck" for many years. In this case, use a grinder. In the process of working with it, do not cut off the excess - the remaining part of the pipe should be enough for threading for future fittings.

Step 5. After trimming or unscrewing from the riser, remove the "towel" from your fasteners to the wall and put it somewhere further. The next stage of work is the creation of a bypass, installation of taps and supplies to the future heated towel rail.

Bypass (or in translation "bypass") is a section of the pipe between the outlets on the heated towel rail, which gives the water in the riser the opportunity to go "past" the heated towel rail when it is blocked. Its presence solves several problems at once.

1. The bypass allows you to mount temperature control valves at the inlet and outlet of the heated towel rail. In addition, it can be used to completely shut off the water supply to the "towel" without shutting down the riser, which is especially convenient in case of repair or replacement of such equipment.
2. The bypass separates the streams of hot water in the riser - one goes to the heated towel rail, and the second goes further to the neighbors, while keeping its temperature unchanged.
3. A bypass on a heated towel rail ensures the normal circulation of hot water in the riser along its entire height.

Examples of different types of bypass installation between taps are shown in the images below.

Important! Among plumbers, a controversial issue is the diameter and location of the bypass pipe for the heated towel rail. Some are convinced that it will only work effectively with a narrower and offset traversal. But this is not so - a direct bypass with a diameter equal to that of the riser manifests itself perfectly both with upper and lower supply. The image below is proof of that.

Often on the Internet you can find such schemes and photographs where the bypass is equipped with a gate valve. The presence of this faucet is another point of contention among plumbers. From the point of view of building codes, unauthorized installation in a riser (and in this case, the bypass is formally considered it) of such devices not provided for by the project is a gross violation. In addition, installing a bypass tap reduces the pressure and temperature of hot water in the following apartments. Therefore, its presence may be the subject of claims against you from the management company or neighbors.

Video - DIY installation of a heated towel rail

Installing and connecting a water heated towel rail - step by step instructions

So, the removal of the old coil is complete, the bypass, taps and supply pipes are installed. Now consider step by step instructions on installing and connecting a water heated towel rail with your own hands.

Step 1. Select the fittings required to connect the heated towel rail to the outlets for it. In this case, corner models are used. In addition to the fittings themselves, look for decorative cups (also called reflectors) that cover the connection.

Step 2. Stick FUM tape on the threaded surface of the fittings - it is necessary to seal the connection. Use tow if desired.

Stick the FUM tape on the threaded surface of the fitting so that when it is screwed into the pipe, its end will not bulge

Step 3. Complete the application of the FUM tape as follows: roll it into a kind of "thread" and apply at the thread run. Thus, when installing the fitting, this part of the tape will be pressed against the wall and will act as an O-ring.

Step 4. Screw the fitting together with the fitted decorative reflector into internal thread pipes connected to the outlets for the heated towel rail. Due to the use of FUM tape, this will require some effort. When doing this, be careful not to rip off the threads.

Step 5. In the same way, apply FUM tape or tow to the second fitting and tighten it, connecting it to the outlet from the riser.

Step 6. Install rubber or polyurethane O-rings inside the fittings.

Step 7. Attach the heated towel rail itself to the fittings and the wall, "bait" it to check if the distance between the fittings is correct. Then mark the points on the wall where you want to make the holes for the brackets or holders.

Step 8. Now you need to make holes in the ceramics and the concrete behind it to install the fasteners for the heated towel rail. To get started, cover the tile with a self-tapping screw - attach it to the surface and tap it lightly with a hammer several times. This action is necessary so that the drill does not jump to the side while creating the hole.

Important! Such an action requires special care - if you carelessly, you can leave cracks or chips on the tiles. In some cases, builders advise, instead of screwing, simply stick a patch or paper tape on the drilling site crosswise.

Step 9. At low speeds, with extreme caution, do ceramic tiles holes for heated towel rail fasteners. To do this, it is advisable to use either a special spear-shaped drill, or well sharpened for concrete.

Step 10. After that, at high speeds, make a hole for fasteners in the concrete located behind the tiles.

Step 11. Insert plastic dowels into the resulting holes.

Step 12. If the ends of the dowels stick out of the holes, cut off with a knife, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve a snug fit of the holder or bracket.

Step 13. Re-attach the heated towel rail to the fittings, while checking if the position of the O-rings in it has changed while you created the holes for the holders.

Step 14. Secure the towel rail to the fittings by hand tightening the appropriate nuts.

Step 15. Now tighten these nuts to secure the towel in place. To do this, use a sanitary wrench and a rag - the latter will protect the nickel-plated surface from scratches. It is enough to make two turns.

Step 16. Move the decorative cups away from the wall and turn the valves on the outlets so that water flows into the heated towel rail. Check the tightness of the connections - no dripping from there.

Step 17. If everything is in order, the final touch remains - screw the screws into the holes for the fasteners, where the dowels were previously inserted. Check how tight the heated towel rail is. On this, its installation and connection with your own hands can be considered completely and successfully completed.

The installation of an electric heated towel rail is carried out in a similar way - according to the instructions, the product is assembled, holes for holders or brackets are created in the wall and the "towel" is installed on them. The difference is that for such models, an outlet is required, which should preferably be located away from the bathroom. If desired and possible, you can make a hidden installation, when the power cable goes into the wall and there is connected to the electrical wiring.

Regardless of the type of heated towel rail and the material from which it is made, the reliability, durability and efficiency of the device directly depend on the choice the right way connection and competent installation. With the right approach, everyone can do it!

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How to connect a heated towel rail to heating?

What do we have to do?

A heated towel rail is a tube-shaped device designed to dry towels. By the type of coolant, the device is divided into electrical and water types. And although an electrical appliance has more advantages, it is the water type of device that is more often used. Water heated towel rails can be connected to two hot water supply systems: to a water supply system or a heating system. The first option is more often chosen, since hot tap water always comes in, but the heating works only in the cold season.

How to properly connect a heated towel rail to the heating system?

The scheme is quite simple, the whole process consists of the following stages:

• dismantling of old equipment (if it was previously);
• installation of a bypass (i.e. jumpers) and ball valves;
• connecting a heated towel rail;
• quality control of the work performed, connections.

When connecting the device to the heating system, it is important to know that the installation is carried out in the warm season, when the heating season is closed, since it is required to turn off the coolant supply. IN winter time no one will do this. It should be noted that electric type the device does not require similar actions.

Installation requires the following materials:

• heated towel rail with fasteners (usually comes as a complete set);
• ball valve - 3 pieces;
• stainless pipe (for bypass).

After the materials are prepared, you can start working. The instructions for work are presented below.

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Preparatory work

Dismantling the old device. Before proceeding with the dismantling of the old appliance, it is necessary to turn off the water supply to the heating system. Disconnection should be coordinated with the relevant services (ZhEK, management company). If the towel dryer is connected to the pipes using threaded connections, then simply unscrew it and remove it from the fasteners. If the device is welded to the pipes, then it is necessary to cut it off with a grinder. In this case, you should leave a piece of pipe on which the thread will be cut.

Installation of bypass and taps. A bypass is needed to circulate water in case of disconnection of the heated towel rail. This is a kind of jumper on which a ball valve must also be installed. A tap is required to supply and disconnect water to pass through the bypass (an electrical device does not require the installation of additional elements)

To connect the bypass correctly, it is necessary. The circuit is also very simple. For this, a thread is cut on the pipes (if there was none). A ball valve is installed at the inlet and outlet of the coolant from the coil. During installation, it is necessary to carefully check the tightness of the connection so that there are no further leaks.