Your own carpenter: how to make an ax and sharpen it. Do-it-yourself taiga ax, features and varieties Diy wooden ax

The ax is actually a very important tool. Of course, if you are a real carpenter, you should definitely know how to make an ax that is perfect for certain tasks. Professional carpenters usually use several axes at once. Nonetheless, given view the tool is also necessary for people living outside the city, or simply city dwellers who occasionally go to their summer cottages... After all, you need to heat the bath with firewood, and you can only chop them with an ax. And so that no misunderstandings arise in the process, and the tool does not let you down, you should know about all the intricacies of how to make an ax with your own hands, as well as how to prepare it for work. The handle itself can be completely different in shape. But the ax should be properly inserted, wedged, and it is also necessary to sharpen at a certain angle.

Choosing the piercing part of the ax

When you are faced with a choice, in the process of acquiring a piercing part, be sure to pay attention to the metal from which it is made. There must be an inscription GOST, confirming the implementation in accordance with the norms and requirements. You should be on your guard if you see a sign like: OST, MRTU, TU. In this case, the metal production technology could be changed by the manufacturer. If we talk about choosing a good Soviet ax, then it is better to buy it on the regular market.

You can check the quality of the ax the old waystriking the blade of one against the blade of the other. If one of the products is made of poor quality, then it is on it that traces of impact will remain. Also, if you hang the ax, you can knock on it and listen to the sound. It will be characteristic.

Pay attention to the fact that if the blade is good, there should be no dents or flaws; the eyelet must be tapered; also the eyelet and blade must be coaxial; and at least a small thickness of the butt must be present, and its ends must be perpendicular to the blade.

If you have not been able to find a product that would meet all the standards. You can make a good ax yourself. Even if some misunderstandings are found in the purchased product over time, they can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, bore the eyes, and give the butt a symmetrical shape.

Select a blank. Make an ax

Based on your height and strength, you should choose the length of the ax. The quality of the wood is also very important. For example, for lightweight products, up to one kg in weight, the length of the handles is 40-60 cm. If we talk about a heavy ax - up to one and a half kilograms, the length of the handle will be 55-65 cm.

The approach to the question of how to make a wooden ax should be correct. For example, not every tree is suitable for its handle. Most suitable options - the root part of the birch, as well as its growths; maple or oak, ash and other types of wood. It is very important to dry the preparations well, and necessarily in natural conditions and for a considerable time.

Choose a tool template in advance, and your template should be outlined on the workpiece. The end part of the handle should be thicker so that the master can brake with his hand in the event that the ax slips out. Excess wood (outside the contour) should be removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade or other similar tools. After that, you need to make sure that the actions are correct. Use a mallet to place the ax on the ax for fitting. Make sure these pieces fit very tightly together. After that, you can proceed with further stripping. To cycle, you should use glass, and sand - fine sandpaper. Knowing how to make an ax out of wood is half the battle. But that's not all.

"Landing" the ax on the handle

This process can be done, for example, in this way:

• The top of the handle is adjusted in accordance with the eyelet. The unnecessary tree should be removed with a knife.

• The ax should be laid horizontally on a flat, hard surface, and the ax should be placed on top. On the handle, you need to mark with a pencil the place to which it needs to be inserted. After dividing the segment in two, a second mark should be put.

• With a vise, you should clamp the ax so that the wider end is up. With a hacksaw for metal, cut to the 2nd mark right under the wedge.

• The wedge can be from a store, or made of wood by hand. Its thickness can be 5-10 mm, the length is the same as the cutting depth, the width is equal to the eye of an ax.

• You need to put a board on the table, and put an ax on it, upside down. The ax should be put on the handle by tapping it on the board. Next, you should turn over and knock with the handle during the insertion process. This should be turned over and tapped several times in a row. As a result, the handle should go into the eyelet.

• After this, the ax must be placed vertically, and a wedge must be inserted into the cut and hammered into it with a mallet.

• Oil should be applied to the handle, the excess will drain off, and the tool will remain dry. After all, use a rag to wipe the ax and handle.

In addition, you can watch a video on how to make an ax, with the help of which the essence of making a tool will be clearer to you.

Sharpening the ax blade

This issue is very important so that the tool does not cause inconvenience and hassle. In accordance with GOST, the sharpening angle should be from twenty to thirty degrees. If you are a professional carpenter, then sharpening should be done at a thirty-five degree angle.

Upon completion of the work done with an ax, it is recommended to put a cover on the blade. Be careful!

Recently there has been a real boom in blacksmithing. Young people become blacksmiths. Knives and axes made by their hands are real works of art.

Nothing is impossible

Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes to mind that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, it turns out to be much more difficult.

In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, breaks for an eye. Not everyone has such a set of tools. Of course, you can make a forge and breakdowns, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.

Making an ax by the locksmith method

Ideas for how to make an ax outside the forge lead to the plumbing method. The ax consists of three parts:

• ax blade
• hatchet

If everything is clear with the materials for making the hatchet and the wedge, then the question of what, the main thing is how, to make the canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the blade consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:

• metal strip for blade
• a piece of pipe for a butt

Blade

The full size drawing will show the quantity required material... The blade needs a hard metal like a car spring.

We transfer the outline of the drawing to the spring and saw off all unnecessary. We also make descents using a grinder. Here it is important not to overheat the metal so that the edge remains solid and holds the sharpening well.

Butt

For the butt of a medium ax, you need a pipe with an inner diameter of 38-40 mm. Better if it is thick-walled. We cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it, for example with a gas burner, and squeeze it in yews to make it more rectangular.

Assembling the canvas

We connect the blade and the butt by welding. It is important to boil the metal with high quality so that the ax does not crack during operation.

Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, grind again. For extra strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.

Hatchet

A good ax requires a well-made ax. To the question of what the handle for an ax can be made of, there is a simple answer - from hard wood.

The most common wood for making an ax handle is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping wood, but for the soul, then you should look for a wood species with a more expressive texture.

Ax tree

An ax handle made of ash, elm, hornbeam will look very beautiful. It is problematic to buy boards made of such wood species in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can take advantage of online trading.

The wood for the ax must be well dried and free of knots. At home wooden plank dried at room temperature for six months

The longer the wood dries, the stronger the handle will be. According to custom, timber was dried for years in the attics of houses.

Action plan

Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax with your own hands allows you to break the process into elementary steps. The compiled list of actions will help to avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.

Note!

The step-by-step process on how to make a pen at home will look like this:

• sketching the hatchet and template
• wood processing
• ax attachment
• topcoat.

Hatchet sketch and pattern

For comfortable work, an ax handle is made about 50-70 cm. Having drawn a sketch in full size, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.

Roughing

Using the template, we outline the contour of the handle on the tree and cut out the blank. We give a more rounded shape to the handle. For these purposes, you can use a plane, chisels or a small hatchet.

Fit

The next stage in the manufacture of the hatchet is the adjustment of the shape and ergonomics. We grind the wood to give it the correct shape and a comfortable grip.

For these purposes, a large rasp is perfect, as well as a power sander. The main thing here is not to loosen the place of the ax attachment on the ax handle.

Note!

Grinding and assembly

After rough processing, we grind the handle with sandpaper and make a slot for the wedge. We put the ax on the handle and drive in a wedge. Many people advise placing the wedge on glue or epoxy. The choice is yours.

Finishing

The assembled ax is carefully sanded with fine sandpaper. The wood can be stained or left as is. The protective layer is applied with oil or varnish.

For more exclusivity, the ax can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire cutting. On the canvas of the ax, a pattern etched in a salt solution will look beautiful.

Conclusion

It is very easy to purchase an ax for chopping wood, and there is no need to make it yourself for this purpose. Homemade axes are more used as an object of creativity, but he is capable of performing his direct duties.

Some independent copies will give odds to industrial designs, give the owners a reason for pride and pleasure in the work done.

Photo of a homemade ax

Note!

It's no secret that the ax is an indispensable carpentry tool. In addition, the ax is especially useful in the household: from chopping wood to repairing a home.

This article examines issues related to the manufacture of a taiga-type ax, because it is quite difficult to find such a useful tool on the market, and it will cost a lot. The article provides additional helpful information, which will tell you which ax is better to choose for certain needs.

What should be a taiga ax?

Such an ax, due to its special parameters, which are fundamentally different from the characteristics and sizes of "classic" axes, is an indispensable assistant in many tasks, such as:

• Tree felling. Whether carpentry or a simple preparation of firewood for the winter - a taiga ax will help to complete the task quickly and efficiently;
• Rough processing of logs - removal of branches, other similar work;
• A tool as a way of “survival” - any catalog of axes will confirm the assertion that the taiga ax is ideal for hunting, preparing kulemka and traps;
• Creation of a hut and flooring, construction wooden house as soon as possible;
• Firewood preparation.

In cases where the performance of work requires special precision, the most the best option will remain forged ax with a long blade. Chopping trees with such an ax is not very effective, but accuracy plays an important role.

Distinctive features of the taiga-type ax

Most people do not see the difference between a taiga and an ordinary ax at all. So what are the differences between these two types of axes?

• The length of the blade roundness - the taiga ax is lighter in weight;
• Long beard - additional protection against deformation and breaking. Typically absorbs up to 60% of impact force;
• Special sharpening - allows you to use the ax as a standard cleaver when choosing the right blow. In this case, the leading edge of the blade is twice as wide as the rear. The edge of a regular ax has the same thickness;
• Special angle of inclination of the ax - reduces hand fatigue, increases the overall efficiency during work.

Making the head of a taiga ax

It is worth purchasing an ordinary carpenter's ax, the head of which will weigh 1400-1500 grams.

In front, we cut off the projection of the blade flush with the butt. We form the roundness of the back of the blade - the grinder will help us with this. It is necessary to cut off all the metal so that no corners remain.

Moving on to the inner part of the blade - carefully cut out a semicircle, which is necessary for a more comfortable grip. In addition, this manipulation can significantly reduce the weight of the head. To further reduce the weight and increase the maneuverability of the ax, it is necessary to cut the upper corners of the butt.

Sharpening is done using an emery machine. For best results, set a large circle with a medium grain. In addition, sharpening should be done on both sides.

Making an ax for a taiga ax

It should be noted that choosing the right wood is the key to success in making a quality taiga ax. Ideal options will become maple and ash. The simpler options are birch and pine. The latter is perfectly polished and sharpened, but extremely unreliable due to its fragility.

Below is the instruction:

Chock selection - no knots, defects. Processing and drying - the tree is stripped of bark and splits in the middle. Drying of wood should be carried out at + 25 °, while the moisture indicator should be 15%. The aging lasts two months.

Shape creation - we need a hatchet or a large knife to remove the main wood. In addition, do not forget about a chisel and a small hammer - these tools will be needed for smaller jobs.

How to plant an ax? Gauze should be used, and epoxy resin... After three days, the taiga ax will be ready for use.

The last step is sanding and varnishing. The ax will become not only useful, but also beautiful, as in the photo from the advertising catalog!

Photo of axes with your own hands

The result of an activity - whether economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but not least on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of a purchased ax, it often becomes the source of a number of problems - intense dullness of the cutting edge, regularly flying off the piercing part, rapid fatigue, and so on.

Wood selection

The fact that not every breed is suitable for making an ax is understandable. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, mountain ash (always old), beech and even an apple tree. But the best option is still considered to be birch, namely, the root part of the tree or growths on its trunk. Such wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax is also guaranteed.

It is more correct to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively "dehydrated".

Exposure of samples

Even experienced master the first time it may not make a quality hatchet. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the handle of the ax. Opinions on the shelf life before the start of processing differ, but all agree on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3 to 4 years. Moreover, it cannot be accelerated artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.

It makes no sense to put fresh wood on the ax. As a result of material shrinkage, it will begin to deform, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. Undried wood is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, when there is an urgent need to make an ax, at least temporarily.

Template preparation

A good ax must have a well-defined shape. Trying to withstand it "by eye" is a futile business. The same applies to linear dimensions - they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.

Axes have different uses. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter are required. The size and shape of the handle for each are clearly visible in the figure.

What to consider:

• The "tail" is made somewhat larger in cross section than the gripping part. This ensures that the handle does not break out of the hands of the master during the work.
• Since we all have different heights, arm lengths, the linear parameters of the ax are not the standard. They vary within certain limits. This primarily refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for a carpentry tool - about 500 (± 50). But it is necessary to leave the so-called allowance, first of all, from the side of the butt attachment (8 - 10 cm is enough). After it is firmly planted on the ax, without splitting the tree, it is easy to cut off the excess.

If the farm has an ax that is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle to a sheet of cardboard and cut a template along them.

Hatchet making

With a sample, it's easy to do. The main stages of work are as follows:

• workpiece marking;
• sampling of excess wood (electric / jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
• finishing, grinding the ax.

• One should not rush to fine-tune the fixing part. In the process of processing the hatchet, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it fits to the butt eye. Even a small "shuttle" is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged immediately. Taking into account the specifics of using the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, the grinding of the handle should alternate with its regular fitting in place and adjustment within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
• When processing a workpiece under an ax, it is undesirable to use files. Such a tool loosens wood, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For fine finishing it is more correct to use a sharp knife, shards of glass, sandpaper with different sizes grains. The recommended direction for stripping and sanding is along the grain.
• It is necessary to choose the correct angle of the butt nozzle. For a universal tool used for household purposes, 75º is enough, a cleaver - about 85 ± 50. This is also taken into account when finalizing the fastening part of the ax.

Handle wood protection

Any tree is subject to decay to one degree or another. Linseed and drying oil for the ax. It is impossible to use varnishes and paints to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the handle will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.

The application of the compounds on the ax is carried out in several stages, while each layer must dry well.

Experienced craftsmen mix brightly colored dyes into drying oil or oil. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes, in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not get lost.

Ready-made hatchets are on sale. If a decision is made to purchase a pen, and not waste time preparing wood and self-production, then it is advisable to have with you its approximate dimensions (indicated in the figure above). And choose a workpiece, focusing on them. At home, it only remains to slightly adjust the handle "for yourself."

If you live or work in the taiga, then you must be staffed the right tools... The obligatory equipment includes not only a saw, but also an ax. Many people make the mistake of choosing this tool and believe that it is possible to master the carpentry craft. Today we are examining what an ideal taiga ax looks like and whether you can make it yourself.

Features:

A quality ax is needed not only in the taiga. All lovers of constant and long hikes will like this attribute. This tool is needed not only for cooking kebabs. There is a to-do list that cannot do without this attribute. Namely:

• felling trees;
• processing of fallen logs;
• production of kulemoks and trailers;
• building a hut;
• splitting the log along the grain.

Looking at this entire list, we can safely say that the work is mostly rough and requires strong and durable uniforms. Basically, the taiga ax is used:

• hunter-fishermen;
• gamekeepers;
• foresters;
• tourists;
• geologists and any other person who is going to the taiga.

Components

It is necessary to consider what basic elements the ax consists of:

1. The hatchet is different from the carpentry tool. For a taiga ax, it is much longer. It makes it easy to swing and hit wood. The optimal length of the ax is approximately 50 cm, and in some cases even more. It should not be heavy, otherwise it will be impossible to succeed in the taiga.
2. Head. This part is also different from the carpentry tool. The upper part of the blade is missing in the head. If you urgently need to turn an ordinary ax into a taiga one, you can correct it yourself.
3. Blade. For effective work, it is specially rounded. Such a blade is widely used in the taiga.
4. Goatee. This part fixes the ax and the head together.
5. Butt. In the taiga, it happens that you need not only an ax, but also a hammer. This part will easily replace it. Convenient, no need to carry a hammer with you, especially tourists prefer it.
6. Eye. This part allows you to put the head on the ax. For the reliability of the entire structure, a wooden wedge or an ordinary thick nail must be driven into the lugs. This will prevent the head from jumping off.
7. Fungus. This part is for safe use only. Hands are fixed on it in a comfortable position and do not slip.

Below is a taiga ax. The drawing will show where and how each part is located.

Characteristics

The taiga ax is a tool that will help you in everything. There are conditions that must be met:

• lightness (frequency of use can affect fatigue);
• the handle should be ergonomic (an ax for each man should be like an individual suit - only in size);
• the main weight should be in the metal head.

For those who like to do everything with their own hands, we suggest using our next master class.

Independent production

We offer to supplement your hiking set with such a tool as a taiga ax. We will make a real masterpiece from the blank with our own hands. Before starting work, we will prepare everything you need. This includes:

• head from a carpenter's ax;
• butt wooden;
• bulgarian;
• metal wedges.

Introducing a step-by-step tutorial:

1. With the help of a grinder, you need to shape the ax. It should look like a taiga specimen. If there is rust, it must be removed. For this we use a petal disc.
2. If corrosion has damaged the metal from the inside, then soak the head in vinegar for a day. We clean the remains with a brush.
3. We are preparing an ax. In our case, we suggest taking it is considered strong and solid.
4. Fasten the head and butt together with epoxy. Additionally reinforced with a bandage, drive in the beech wedges.
5. Cut down all excess and be sure to grind.
6. Sharpen your ax.

Since the butt is primarily a tree that is subject to dampness, it is worth processing it. Impregnate with special oil in several layers. Additionally, the product will receive strength and water resistance.

You can also make your own protective cover for the ax. It protects against unwanted injury.

Sharpening rules

To avoid injury, the ax must be sharp. Sharpening can be done manually and mechanically... Let's consider each of the methods separately and analyze the basic rules for sharpening a tool.

Manual method

This method will take a lot of free time, since it is quite troublesome. If you approach with special trepidation, then you need to make a special template before sharpening. This requires:

• find a piece of tin;
• choose the optimal and correct sharpening angle;
• make a cutout.

When the template is ready, move on to the main step:

• we apply the template to the ax blade;
• see if there is a deflection angle;
• we apply notes with a marker;
• we process.

If you chose manual way sharpening, it is better to do this with a bar with medium grain. The final touch can be done with the smallest view. The timber also has its own nuances:

• a round shape is preferred;
• material - fine sandstone.

Professionals advise sharpening with the blade away from you. It is also noted that if amateurs get down to business, then the blade becomes dull, and in some cases the "sharpeners" break.

Mechanical method

If you have it at hand, you can use it. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following:

• the device itself;
• an ax with a blade;
• whetstone with two working surfaces;
• finishing paste;
• marker;
• goniometer;
• personal protective equipment for eyes and hands.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. The machine must be on a level and firm surface.
2. The work surface should be flawless.
3. If you need to update the sharpening at an existing angle, mark the desired area with a marker.
4. Sharpen with a blade away from you.
5. If the angle fits, then fix the result with a finishing paste. Lubricate the grinding wheel with it and polish the ax.
6. Be sure to apply an agent that protects against corrosion.

Professional sharpening tips

1. If you sharpen the ax mechanically, then it should be done at low speeds.
2. Do not grind with a grinder.
3. No need to rush to sharpen.
4. To prevent the ax from dulling for a long time, store it in a protective case.
5. Never sharpen an ax without personal protective equipment.
6. If you doubt your abilities, then it is better to turn to professionals.

Safety at work

An ax is a pretty dangerous thing. So that the hike does not turn into a sad journey, remember the tips for the operating rules:

1. The head should not dangle on the handle.
2. When chopping, place the wood under the wood.
3. Do not drop the taiga ax to the ground.
4. Do not use this tool to cut through stone or metal.
5. When working, you need to take positions that are comfortable for yourself. There should be plenty of free space around.

Purchase

If you like constant hiking or go hunting, then you need equipment such as a taiga ax. Vacha is the most common model among this family of tools. With its help, quickly and easily chop and process wood.

If you want to buy a taiga forged ax, then see that the set includes a protective cover. Distinctive feature this brand of tools is considered a handle. It is made from strong birch varieties. The wood is impregnated and processed.

We have considered how to make a taiga. If there is no way to craft on your own, you can always find a product in a store.