The techniques for performing various carpentry operations are outlined, a description is given hand tool, its adjustment and manufacture, it is told about the device for carpentry. Recommendations are given on the artistic evaluation of wood as an ornamental material, on the restoration of objects made of wood, their finishing (polishing, varnishing, marquetry, inlay). Examples of the manufacture of some products are given. The book uses the experience of the old masters of art and furniture industry.

For a wide range of readers.

What this book is about 1

Joinery material 2

Tool 5

Woodworking with tools 15

Measurement works, preparation of measurement drawings 19

Marking work in kind 20

Joiner connections 21

Gluing and sticking 22

Fundamentals of artistic facing of joinery with veneer 25

Joinery finishing 28

Restoration work 30

Joinery manufacturing 32

G. I. Kulebakin
Joinery

Published according to the decision of the literature section on technologists construction works editorial board of Stroyizdat.

Reviewer - Ch. specialist of the sector of furniture and equipment of the Central Research Institute of Experimental Design of entertainment buildings and sports facilities E.S. Ustinov.

In our tough and impetuous age, the age of glass and concrete, metal and polymers, a person especially keenly feels a craving for such a seemingly out-of-date, warm and always beloved material as wood. From patriarchal antiquity and the knightly Middle Ages, the methods of processing it have come down to us. Save experience the best craftsmen of the past, the book of a candidate of architecture, a connoisseur of carpentry and a wonderful craftsman Georgy Ivanovich Kulebakin. It will be of interest both to craftsmen engaged in joinery decoration of the interiors of public buildings, and to those who dedicate their leisure time to the ancient and young, painstaking and beautiful carpentry art.

What this book is about

Woodworking is one of the first crafts that man mastered. This material is malleable to the tool, durable, light and beautiful, so products from it have long and firmly entered the life of people and enjoy their unchanging love.

Joinery was born out of carpentry, building with the advent of tools and techniques that make it possible to obtain smooth surfaces and precise details. The essence of carpentry lies in the ability to cleanly process and combine pieces of wood obtained from a round tree trunk into a product. Finishing appeared much later. At first, joinery was made in natural wood- an array.

Today's carpentry uses thick bars and boards that are strong enough, and very thin planks such as plywood veneer (thin cut wood) that require a supporting wood base. Boards and bars go into a hidden structure and for the front, open parts of the product, veneer is used exclusively for cladding. The surface of boards and bars is processed by planing, cutting, turning. Since the natural basis of the carpentry material has not changed - it is still the same tree, the principle of its processing has also been preserved, which means that the techniques of the old masters, who were fluent in hand tools, may well serve today's master, whose work is only facilitated by the use of mechanisms.

Joinery skills, along with the ability to choose the material to give the bar the proper shape, also require taking into account the constructive work of this bar in the product, based on the direction and shape of its fibers.

As you know, there are different types of wood that have different color, structure and strength of wood. Each breed has its own characteristics in processing and finishing. Joinery art also consists in being able to determine the breed, knowing its features - advantages and disadvantages, being able to find in a piece of wood - a blank - the parts most suitable for facial details, being able to connect different breeds together so that this connection is harmonious , beautiful and would correspond to the design characteristics of the product.

Wood lends itself to various kinds of finishing - dyeing, staining, varnishing, polishing. However, the possibilities of such a finish for different breeds different: there is wood that easily accepts mordant (color), there is - poorly accepting; some species are poorly polished, etc. An important part of carpentry is understanding the possibilities of wood finishing, its choice and the ability to perform this finishing.

Any carpentry product consists of separate parts, one way or another interconnected. The strength of the connection of these parts depends on the strength of the entire product. The master needs to be able to choose the type of bundle of parts, the shape and nature of their processing at the joints, as well as fastening materials.

The parts themselves, connected to the product, may have different thicknesses and widths for the same size and purpose of the product. So, the frame of the door can be both wide and narrow, the legs of the stool can be both thick and thin. The ability to determine the section required for a given place, taking into account not only work, but also beauty, is one of the main components of joinery art. The craftsman must have a sense of proportion and what is called a sense of wood.

The essence of wood processing, as was said, has been preserved since ancient times practically unchanged: a tree is cut with a saw, its surface is smoothed with a planer, holes are made either with a drill, or with a chisel, a chisel. Recently, hand-held machines have appeared in which the cutting parts are driven by a motor. This greatly facilitated the work on the procurement of material and, in addition, made it possible to increase the accuracy of the dimensions of the same type of parts and the speed of their manufacture. The master is required to be able to use manual machines in such a way that, compared with manual production, the possibilities for obtaining new forms of joinery would not be limited, but, on the contrary, increased. In short, the craftsman must also master hand machines like a chisel or planer. Of course, there is no need to expand on the need to own a hand tool here.

Modern carpentry production has been replenished with several new types of carpentry materials. Firstly, it is trimmed with precious wood flat shield on the basis of chipboard (particle board) or carpentry board, assembled from glued together wooden slats and lined with plywood veneer on the outside. Secondly, it is a paper or plastic film imitation material that replaces natural, and thirdly, polyester and nitrocellulose varnishes, which make it possible to obtain a durable thick transparent layer of surface finish of products. The ability to use these materials is an indispensable condition for carpentry today.

Thus, carpentry includes both a purely handicraft part - processing wood with a tool and joining parts into a product, and a creative part - the ability to choose and combine species, to feel harmony in a carpentry product. This latter is the most difficult, but the possession of harmony is the main quality of a true master.

In connection with the development mechanized methods In the processing of wood, the direct connection between the structure of the tree and its shape has recently been lost. Many artistically and logically false solutions have appeared, such that it was impossible to make by hand (for example, transverse gluing of curved corners and edges of plates, long bending parts), which are dictated mainly by the convenience of factory technology. You cannot imitate them. Therefore, it is possible to understand the actual logic of the device of a wooden thing only by studying samples of folk furniture, furniture and joinery of past times. All details of peasant furniture and products of medieval carpenters are made and connected in accordance with the true constructive work of the wooden element in the product. Outwardly, this is characterized by the direction of the fibers in the part, made, as a rule, from an array.

Studying the logic of building antique or folk furniture should not at all be accompanied by copying old forms. Although, on the other hand, it must be said that it is hardly possible to invent a table or cabinet that is fundamentally different in design: after all, the forms of wooden furniture have been developed over many centuries.

Carpentry classes are intensively spreading in various segments of the population - from craftsmen engaged in carpentry finishing of premises in public buildings to home craftsmen. At the same time, the requirements for the quality of carpentry work are increasing. At the same time, the professional skills of workers engaged in interior carpentry do not always correspond to the proper level. This is because the level of manual skills has decreased: the older generation of craftsmen-carpenters left without passing on the secrets of their work, the carpenters of furniture enterprises are too specialized. Many former carpenters who have not undergone professional training now work as joiners in construction.

It is impossible to obtain comprehensive information about the professional techniques of carpentry from carpentry textbooks, since the presentation of manual work is given in them very concisely.

Literature on carpentry

1. Akishenkov S. I. Protection of lumber from cracking during drying. M., 1978. 33 p.

2. Amalitsky V.V., Lyubchenko V.I. The Young Woodworker's Handbook. M., 1974.

3. Bartashevich A.A., Antonov V.P. Technology of furniture production and woodcarving.
288 pages, 2001; Publisher: Vysshaya Shkola

4. M. A. Berline, Moisture measurement, 2nd ed., Revised. and additional M., 1973. 400 p.

5. Biryukov V. A. Chamber drying of wood in electric field high frequency. M.-L., 1950. 102 p.

6. Bobikov P.D., Lyutershtein M.B. Plywood work. M., 1974

7. Bobikov P.D. Design of joinery and furniture products. M., 1980.173 p.

8. Bobikov P.L. Production of artistic furniture. M., 1982.271 p.

9. Buglay B.M. Wood finishing technology. M., 1973.

10. Bulanin. V.D. Mosaic works on wood. 144 pages, 2001; Publisher: Olma-Press; Series: School of Excellence

11. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N. House carving. M.1994.352 p.

12. Bukhtiyarov V.P. Equipment for finishing wood products. M., 1971.

13. Vakin A. T. Storage roundwood. M., 1964. 428 p.

14. Weber G.B. Modern furniture with their own hands; Translated from German-M., 1980.78 p.

15. Gashkova A. K. Influence of humidity on the quality of joinery and building products. M., 1974. 80 p.

16. Ginzburg A. S. Fundamentals of the theory and technique of DRYING food products. M., 1973. 528 p.7.

17. Girsh M. Drying technique. Per. with him. M., 1937. 628 p.

18. Glikin M.S. Decorative woodwork on machines. M.1999.280 s

19. Glukhikh V. H. Prevention of warping of lumber during kiln drying. M., 1975. 35 p.

20. Golenishchev A.N., Dobrynin S.V., Andreeva A.A. Drying and protective treatment of wood. - M .: Lesn. Industry, 1984.- 80 p.

21. Gorshin S. N. Atmospheric drying of lumber. M., 1971. 295 p.

22. Grigoriev M.A. Industrial training for carpenters. M., 1979.223 p.

23. Grigoriev M.A. Material science for joiners and carpenters. M., 1981.169 p.

24. Grigoriev M.A. Industrial training of machine operators in woodworking. M., 1982.152 p.

25. Denezhny P.M., Stiskin P.M., Thor I.E. Turning business. M., 1979.

26. Dmitrievskaya T.S. Finishing furniture with nitro-lacquers. L. 1951

27. Zabozlaev B.S. Conditions for safe work in the finishing shops of woodworking enterprises. M., 1967.

28. Directory of hand tools for construction. M., 1989.

29. Heinrich Gatsura. Furniture styles. 164 pages, 2001; Publisher: Moscow City Organization of the Union of Writers of Russia.

30. Kondratiev G. M. Regular thermal regime. M., 1954. 408 p.

31. Konovalenko A.M. Restoration of furniture. St. Petersburg. 1998. 112 p.

32. Korotkov V.I. Woodworking machinery. M., 1986.

33. Krasnikov VV Conductive drying. M., 1973. 288 p.

34. Kreydlin L.N. Joinery, carpentry and parquet work. M., 1997.320 p.

35. Kreidlin L.N. Carpentry work. M., 1982.127 p.

36. Kreydlin L.N. Carpentry. M., 1985.174 p.

37. Krechetov I.V. Drying wood. 3rd ed. revised M.: Lesn. prom-st, 1980.-432 p.

38. Krechetov I. V. Drying wood with flue gases. M., 1961. 270 p.

39. Krechetov I. V. Wood drying. M., 1972. 440 p.

40. Krechetov I. V. Wood drying. M.-L., 1949. 528 p.

41. Krechetov I. V. Start-up and operation of a continuous gas drying plant of the Krechetov system. TsNIITEIlesprom. M., 1965. 24 p.

42. Kraut F. and Meyer Fr. Carpentry and joinery work interior decoration buildings. Floors, doors, windows, wall cladding and decoration, ceilings, stairs. 292 pp., 1901; Publisher: Edition G.V. Holsten.

43. Krisher O. Scientific foundations of drying technology. M., 1961. 540 p.

44. Kuksov V.A. Joinery. M., 1960.

45. Kulebakin G.I. Joinery. M., 1987.143.

46. ​​Kulikov IV Technology for the manufacture and repair of furniture by order of the population. M., 1974. 424 p.

47. Laschaver M.S., Rebrin S.P. Finishing wood fiber boards with synthetic materials. M., 1970.

48. Lebedev P. D. Calculation and design of drying installations. M.-L., 1963. 320 p.

49. Logacheva. L.A. Fundamentals of wood carving. 136 pages, 2001; Publisher: Folk art

50. Lykov A.V. drying theory. M., "Energy", 1968 - 472 p.

51. Lykov A. V. Heat and mass transfer (reference book). M., 1972. 560 p.

52. Lyubchenko V.I., Druzhkov G.F. Reference book of a young machine operator of a sawmill and woodworking enterprise. M., 1985.

53. Matveeva T.V. Mosaic and woodcarving. M., 1981.80 p.

54. Mikhailichenko A.L., Sadovnichy F.P. Wood science and forest commodity science. M., 19883.205 p.

55. Mikhailov Yu, M. Drying with superheated steam. M., 1967. 198 p.

56. Muzalevsky V. I. Measurement of wood moisture content. M., 1976. 120 p.

57. Nagorskaya I.A. Grinding and polishing equipment for finishing shops. VNIPIEI Lesprom, 1971.

58. Nefedov V.I. How to make furniture yourself. M., 1986.192 p.

59. Nikitin L.I. Safety precautions at woodworking enterprises. M., 1982.240 p.

60. Standards for chamber drying of lumber. M.-L., 1957. 39 p.

61. Wood processing. Traditional technique. 432 pages, 1999; Publishers: AST, Geleos

62. Orlova Yu.D. Finishing of wood products. M., 1968.

63. Perelygin L. M. Wood science. M., 1969. 318 p.

64. Peych H. H., Tsarev B. S. Wood drying. M., 1975. 224 p.

65. Pesotsky A. N., Yasinsky V. S. Design of sawmill and woodworking industries. M., 1976. 375 p.

66. Petrov A.K. Technology of woodworking industries. M., 1974.271 p.

67. Popov K.N. , Caddo M.B.. Construction Materials and products. 368 pages, 2001; Publisher: Vysshaya Shkola

68. Practical Tips. Carpentry work. 208 pp., 2000; Publishers: AST, Harvest; Series: My profession

69. Prozorovsky N.I. Technology of finishing joinery. M., 1981.288 p.

70. Pronin. L.A. Carving and mosaic on wood. 272 pages, 2001; Publisher: U-Factoria; Series: DIY

71. Prudnikov P.G., Goldberg E.E., Kordonskaya B.K. Handbook of furniture finishing. Kiev: Technika, 1982

72. Pylnikov H. A. Drying wood. Kyiv, 1968. 120 p.

73. Rivkin S. A., Alexandrov A. A. Thermodynamic properties of water and water vapor. M., 1975. 79 p.

74. Rozov V.N., Savchenko V.F. Facing joinery and furniture parts and products. M., 1979.175 p.

75. Guidelines for kiln-drying lumber. Arkhangelsk, 1977. 152 p.

76. Savchenko. V.F. Materials for facing and finishing joinery and furniture products. 128 pages, 1999; Publisher: Academy (Moscow); Series: Profession

77. Safronenko V.M. Decor and protection of wood. 32 pages, 2001; Publisher: Halton; Series: Master's Tips

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Introduction

In a house, apartment or country house, there is always something for a man to do: drive in a nail, fix a stool, nail a hanger or shelf to the wall. Therefore, the ability to own carpentry tools is always necessary. And if there is a desire to do something more significant with your own hands, then you can move from small repair work to more labor-intensive ones: for example, to make a built-in table and a bench on a small balcony, to build in the country wooden stairs or lay out the floor with boards, make a crib or bedside table for tools. As you acquire the necessary skills, you will be able to make a whole furniture set or even build a house from a log house, do it yourself wooden windows, doors and even the roof. In this case, you can save significant money on wages and use them to buy expensive, but very aesthetic, environmentally friendly and high-quality material.

Recently, natural and environmentally friendly materials have become increasingly popular. First of all, it's a tree. Floors, windows, doors and furniture made of wood not only look very beautiful and harmonious, but are also not capable of harming health, especially if non-toxic substances were also used to process and finish them. Some manufacturers modern furniture use only natural and safe for human health materials in their production. But not everyone can afford such luxury furniture for several thousand dollars. If you do the work yourself, then it is quite possible to purchase all the desired material, saving on its processing, assembly of the structure, finishing and, which is also important, on the delivery of the finished product. Of course, such work will take a lot of time and effort, but the result will invariably please, especially with a conscientious attitude to business and high-quality performance of all work.

Home carpenter's tools

For joinery and carpentry work, you will definitely need a set of the most simple tools: an ax, a hammer, a nail puller, a chisel, a joint knife, pincers, etc. Over time and as needed, this minimum set can be replenished with specific tools that will be useful for more serious work. In the arsenal of a professional carpenter, there should be chisels of various profiles, a hacksaw for wood and metal, a jigsaw, an electric drill with a set of drills and a grinding disc for surface treatment, Various types sandpaper, files and needle files with different notch frequency for surface treatment of parts. It is necessary to become familiar with some of these tools in order to know what kind of work they are intended for.

Hand carpentry tool

A hand tool is used with its own power. These are an ax, a hammer, a mallet, a planer, a hacksaw, a chisel, a chisel, a knife, pincers, a doboynik and clamps.

Some of these tools can be replaced with the same analogs that work under the influence of current, which greatly facilitates the process of any work. In addition, there are auxiliary tools: screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, rasps, files, etc.

This is a very important tool for any work, including carpentry and joinery. The hammer consists of a wooden handle and a striker made of high quality steel.

There are ordinary, carpentry hammers and mallets. For carpentry, it is desirable to have 2-3 hammers of various weights (200, 400 and 600 g) in the kit. To begin with, you can purchase only one medium-weight hammer.

A conventional hammer has a round or oval flat striking surface, and on the other side of the striker has a pointed end, which is used to align the nails when driving.

A mallet is a wooden mallet, which is mainly used for grinding wooden masses in the process of gluing, when working with a chisel, etc.

Can be broken with a regular hammer wooden surface processed web or break wooden handle chisels, and the blows of the mallet are softer, so they cannot lead to damage to the product. Mallets are flat and round (barrel-shaped), and the mallet handle has a rectangular shape with rounded sharp edges. They are made from wear-resistant wood of curly birch, hornbeam and elm.

Rice. 1. Hammer mallet

A round mallet is usually 18 cm high, 12 cm in diameter, 8 cm in diameter of the working ends (butts), and the length of the handle is 39 cm. You can make your own mallets using these parameters or less (Fig. 1).

Master's advice

When pulling a nail out of wood with a carpenter's hammer, in order not to crush the surface of an object or product, you need to place a piece of thin board or plywood at least 3 mm thick under the hammer, or use a metal plate.

Rice. 2. Carpenter's hammer

The carpenter's hammer has one side of the striker, like a conventional hammer, and the other end is divided into two parts according to the type dovetail. This forked end is used for pulling nails, etc. Thus, in the process of work, one tool can be dispensed with, using it both for driving nails and for pulling them out (Fig. 2).

This tool is simply indispensable in carpentry. With its help, splitting, cutting, hewing of wood is performed, and the reverse side of the ax handle is used to deliver stronger blows than a hammer can do. (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Ax

The ax consists of a wooden handle and an ax made of steel. Depending on the angle of the ax handle relative to the handle, there are several types of this tool.

In a straight ax, the ax handle is located at an angle of 90 ° relative to the handle. It is used for splitting wood. In an acute-angled ax, the angle of attachment of the ax handle to the handle is 80–85 °. This ax is used for the primary processing of wood: removal of bark, protruding knots on the trunk, etc. The ax handle of an obtuse-angled ax is located at an angle of 100 ° relative to the handle. It is suitable for more rough work with whole tree trunks.

There are axes in which the blade is sharpened on both sides, and there are sharpened only on one side. The first option is most often used, since it can be used both for cutting and hewing wood. And the second type of ax is suitable only for hewing.

With the help of this tool, various parts of wood and metal are sawn and cut. (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Hacksaw

Hacksaws differ depending on the thickness of the saw blade and the setting of the teeth.

Each type is designed to perform a specific job, as it gives a different quality of the sawn surface. For carpentry, a hacksaw with a “mouse” tooth is usually used - its teeth are very small and often planted. For carpentry, a hacksaw with a rarer and larger tooth is used.

For example, a hacksaw with a wide blade, teeth sharpened at an angle of 45 °, and a set of 0.5 mm from the central axis is used for sawing wood across the grain. A narrow hacksaw with the same setting and method of sharpening teeth as a wide one is used for sawing thin boards and chipboard, for cutting curved parts, etc.

There is a hacksaw with a butt, which is used for sawing out small parts, when fitting joints, etc.

The blade of this hacksaw is very thin, so it is reinforced with a plank along the entire length. Without such a device, it cannot hold the direction of the cut and breaks.

Depending on the types of work performed, hacksaws with both a wide and narrow blade, as well as with large or small teeth, may be required.

A planer is also essential when working with wood. With its help, an excess layer of wood is removed and the surface of the part is leveled. (Fig. 5). Planers come with a metal or wooden body, as well as with one or two blades.

Rice. 5. Planer

A planer with a metal body is mainly used for processing hardwoods and chipboard, with a wooden body for basic work. The latter is much lighter than metal and does not require much tension in the muscles of the hands.