How can you increase your yield. How to increase the yield of potatoes - practical advice. Secrets of loosening and weeding

Fertilizers, when used correctly, can effectively increase the yield of garden crops. In this case, the main thing is not to overfeed or underfeed the plant with them. Here are the rules to follow experienced gardeners to increase the yield of vegetables, herbs, berries and fruits. Fertilizers appear as the main "actor" in all the rules.

Rule 1

When choosing fertilizers, you need to be an innovator. You should not stock up only their organic species or only mineral ones. Fertilizers need to be used in a complex way in order to get the maximum crop efficiency from plants or decorative look which the plant is capable of.

Rule 2

The measure must also be present at least in the application organic fertilizers, at least based on mineral mixtures. For example, those gardeners who annually cultivate the land or sprinkle each holiday season her kilograms of azophoska are not right at the root.

Manure "works" as an organic fertilizer for three years after its distribution on the land. And not every plant needs it. For good, they only need to be respected certain places in the area under the plants that need manure.

In turn, azophosca in singular should not be applied to the soil annually. You need to dilute these fertilizers and adjust them with compost, other types of fertilizers and dressings, for example, herbal infusions prepared on your own.

Rule 3

Please note that fertilizers are either containing only macronutrients, or micronutrients, or both. The latter types of fertilizers, which contain complexes of valuable substances, are preferable. Such fertilizers are offered for sale in the form of a liquid, also in granules, powder. Among such complex fertilizers, the most effective are called:

Humistar
Darina
Giant
Agricola
Orton and many more.

Rule 4

In order to correctly correct what fertilizers your soil lacks in order to get a large and high-quality crop, you need from time to time, at least once every three years (especially if you are not satisfied with the yield), take soil samples on your plot of land to the laboratory for acidity testing soil, humus content, other elements. With this information in hand, you will not blindly add various fertilizers (sometimes not the cheapest ones) to the soil and thereby harm it, not to mention getting a good harvest.

Rule 5

If a laboratory analysis of the soil from the site showed a deficiency of any individual element- you cannot do without buying fertilizer with this single substance. These fertilizers include ammonium nitrate, boric acid and other types of supplements.

Rule 6

It is necessary to apply well-chosen fertilizers to the site not all at once, but fractionally, several times during the entire summer season. Each vegetable or other crop in the garden and in the garden requires its own number of dressings and their quantity. "By eye" in this case, nothing can be done. This is one of the most important rules experienced and successful horticulturist.

Rule 7

If during the summer period the weather is sunny and warm, then fertilizing should be done once every week. If it rains, it is cloudy, cool, there is no heat, then you need to fertilize the soil and plants once every two weeks. With such a "compact" dosage of fertilizers, with an eye to weather conditions, plants will not accumulate harmful nitrates in themselves.

Rule 8

Do not apply the same fertilizer throughout the summer season. Take note of the next point. If the fertilizer (in its composition) contains more than five percent nitrogen, then use such a fertilizer from spring to mid-summer.

After mid-summer, during the preparation of plants for winter, the amount of nitrogen fertilization should be drastically reduced, if not removed from them at all. Since it becomes harmful to plants in this period of the year.

It is advisable after July 15 to start using either other types of fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen, or that it be no more than five percent in the composition. This whole system is suitable for perennial flower beds, decorative and berry bushes, fruit trees. Vegetables, on the other hand, are grown during one season, therefore they are fed according to a different system that does not require a reduction in nitrogen in the diet, from mid-summer to autumn.

Rule 9

When mixing fertilizers, be sure to read the instructions for them. Not all types of fertilizers can be mixed with each other. Also, do not store the solution from the mixture for a long time. different types fertilizers, as it not only loses its qualities, but also accumulates harmful substances poisoning plants afterwards.

July is the best time to use MANY special techniques to increase yields or speed up the growth of vegetable crops.

It is possible to influence the growth and development of plants, and through them - the overall increase in productivity, both by agrotechnical and "surgical" methods, and with the help of special substances, most of which are phytohormones.

Somewhat less often, simpler plants also serve as regulators of plant development. chemical substances such as iron chelate, ethylene or boric acid. As a rule, they are more highly specialized. Some phytohormones can be purchased in stores. For example, heteroauxin (IAA), produced in 100 mg tablets, which must be dissolved in water (1 tablet per 1 liter of water), naphthylacetic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IMA) and some others, but more often auxins are part of more complex drugs, such as Stimulus, Juka, Seradix, Rhiposon, etc.

Phytohormones have their own specialization. Thus, the group of auxins stimulates the root formation of petioles; treatment of monoecious plants by them leads to the formation of predominantly female flowers, which can be used to increase yields and to breeding work. Auxins also accelerate the growth of fruits, besides, under their influence, fruits can develop even from unpollinated and unfertilized flowers - they can be used to grow seedless cucumbers, tomatoes and eggplants.

Phytohormones of another class - gibberellins - primarily stimulate cell elongation and thus ensure plant growth in height. In addition, they can speed up seed germination (and therefore allow some vegetables to be harvested earlier), cause plants to flower without being affected by long days, and stimulate the growth of pollen tubes. True, on the other hand, a high level of concentration of gibberellins promotes (in contrast to auxins) the formation of male flowers.

Another class of phytohormones - cytokinins - is also actively used in crop production: they slow down the aging of leaves, increase the bushiness of plants, and with their help, you can achieve the appearance of a large number of female flowers. In nature, cytokinins act "at the same time" with auxins. In its pure form, they are not sold, but are part of various drugs, such as "Emerald".

Tip #805

Top dressing with calcium carbide of tomatoes and cucumbers allows you to increase their yield by 20-30%. The consumption rate of this substance is 8.1 g per 1 m2 for seedling cultivation and 60-80 kg per 1 ha for soil cultivation.

The best yields after that give other vegetables.

Tip #806

Watering with carbonated (saturated with carbon dioxide) water provides an increase in the yield of potatoes and other row crops by an average of 8%. Of course, the water in this case should in no case be mineral, since the salts contained in it will spoil the soil. *

foliar top dressing most iodine different cultures(both vegetables and fruits and berries) increases their productivity by an average of 30-40%.

Tip #808

When using these techniques, do not forget that they are not recommended as a replacement, but as an addition to the overall complex of plant and soil care. If serious agrotechnical errors were made at the stage of preparing seeds for sowing, caring for seedlings, flowering, etc., they cannot be corrected with minor tricks.

Tip #809

In cucumbers, it is imperative to regularly remove all unsuccessful fruits - ugly "kubariki" and "hooks", as well as all fruits with scratches and spots (spots can also indicate their illness). *

Tip #810

You can speed up the ripening of tomato fruits as follows. On the brush, where there are both ripe and unripe fruits, you need to put on a plastic bag and hold it for 3 days. At the same time, during the “batch processing”, there will be no external changes with unripe fruits - the results will appear after 2-

3 days after removing the package. The effect is achieved due to the fact that fully ripened fruits emit physiologically active substances that have the properties of ripening stimulants (ethylene and some others), and polyethylene does not allow them to volatilize.

Tip #811

Ringing tomato stems with copper wire also reduces the ripening time of the fruit - by an average of 10 days. To do this, at a height of 2.5-3 cm from the soil surface, the stem of the plant must be wrapped with a thin wire, slightly squeezing the skin, but without damaging the stem. By the way, the sugar content of tomatoes in this case also increases - the fruits are sweeter, with a high content of solids.

Tip #812

To increase the yield of carrots, you can “cut it” - shorten the tops. If you regularly cut it with scissors or pinch it (from the moment the root diameter approaches 1 cm), the carrots will become thicker by the end of ripening, and their mass will increase accordingly.

The yield of annual herbaceous crops is influenced by both factors that affect the overall yield of plants and factors that determine the distribution of assimilates to reproductive tissues.

Yields are affected by issues of timing and crop concentration. The quality of the fruits and their keeping quality are also an important criterion for the harvest. Average air temperatures of 18-24 degrees are optimal for the largest overall harvest. As the temperature rises, the intensity of stem growth increases, and the time until the first harvest is reduced. From plants begin to collect the first fruits when high temperatures, but the harvest time is reduced and the overall yield is reduced.

The difference between day and night temperatures relative to the average does not affect early ripeness and early harvest, but has a profound effect on stem length. At nighttime temperatures of 18 degrees or below, early maturity and yields increased by increasing soil temperature.

The responsiveness of cucumber to temperature can be modified by the light conditions in which the crop is grown. With limited light levels in mid-winter, stem elongation and early harvesting, yields will be highest at 21 degrees without increasing further as temperatures rise above this point.

When growing bio-cucumber in light culture for several crop rotations per year, a yield of more than 70 kg/m2 was noted.

Increasing average CO2 levels for greenhouse cucumbers has become a common practice, especially when windows are closed in the greenhouse. CO2 concentrations of 0.07-0.10% are widely used and increase yields by 20-43%. In cases where ventilation is required for temperature control, CO2 enrichment becomes more difficult.

The use of vermicultivation technology and enrichment with carbon dioxide in a natural way increases the yield several times.

fruit quality

Ensuring fruit quality at harvest while increasing yields in general will not be successful at high plant density. As the fruit yield increased, the proportion of soluble solids and fruit size decreased.

Any factor that reduces the period from the beginning of flowering to fruit ripening, reduces the content of solid soluble substances in the fruit. Increasing night temperatures, decreasing leaf surface area, and increasing the number of fruits per plant all reduce fruit ripening time and, at the same time, reduce fruit quality.

The number of fruits per plant is inversely proportional to the content of soluble solids in the fruits. Factors that reduce the intensity of photosynthesis can affect fruit quality and yield.

The need for a high quality fruit harvest indicates the extent to which the harvesting period can be shortened or synchronized on a particular bed. At plant density, when more than 1 fruit ripens on one plant, it may be difficult for the rapid growth of several fruits at the same time without reducing the intensity of growth or the rate of assimilates.

When manufacturing process is not clearly debugged, then this or that work operation is performed out of time, later or earlier, and this requires additional labor costs.

As the cultivation method changes, so does the disease and pest control scheme. One of the biggest problems is Botrytis on the main stem.

Lowering the pipes of the heating system under the plants is one way to solve the problem.

Mycosphaerella is another issue. Due to the large difference in height between

between the top of the plant and its lower parts there are large differences in temperature.

In a traditional greenhouse in a cold spring, the temperature of the tops of the plants can reach 14 degrees. Mycosphaerella can also infect the tops of plants. With severe damage, plants stop growing. In this case, compensation is not possible due to additional stems. In the Solar bio-vegetation, this problem is absent, due to the transverse air exchange and the use of hybrid batteries.

The productivity potential of cucumbers is much higher than that of tomatoes. Theoretically, cucumbers can yield 150 kg/m2. The average keeping quality of cucumbers is about 19 days.

The height at which the first fruits are kept on the main stem depends on the time of planting and care. Thus, the first fruits of plants with removed tops in summer are in the 3rd and 4th axils in order to inhibit the expected strong growth.

Immediately before planting the intermediate crop, the old plants are lowered from the hooks with high twine to a height of approximately 15 cm above the bed. Thus, new plants receive more light. For all periods of planting an intermediate crop, it was found that with a dense planting or a larger number of stems per 1 m2, the number of harvested fruits and the yield in kg increase. One plant per 1 m2 and 3 side shoots for summer crops give a good result. 3 stems per plant is quite a heavy load. With uneven growth rates of side shoots, there is a risk that some of them will be forgotten.

Tying up in an inclined position and lowering do not have negative influence for the harvest, however, cause an increase in labor costs for the institution for twine.

In the second half of the growing period, the quality of the fruit deteriorates. Deformed fruits occur because fruits low on the main stem touch the ground or the old plant, which affects the shape of the growing fruits.

Possible cause of moderate quality, it can also be that the plant in such a system ages very quickly. The period of fruit growth on the main stem is very short, and the plant quickly moves to lateral shoots. In this case, the fruits are often shortened. In addition to the variety, the influence of climate also affects here. When growing in WBS, the air circulation is more intense, and the distance from the heating system ducts to the plant is greater than normal.

In addition, plants planted in February have few leaves under the trellis, and therefore the number of fruits under the trellis is low. There is also a splitting of the stem at the place of the clamp. Since the stem in this system cannot rest on the twine, the side shoots crowd together. The use of light is suboptimal. Therefore, plants in intermediate plantings are not very tight on the twine, which significantly improves the distribution of the plant in space.

When compared at the end of August (at the end of the growing season of the 2nd crop), the yield under the traditional system can be up to 59 kg/m2, and the crop in SBV yields up to 67 kg/m2. The difference is due to the fact that during the period of culture change, old plants could bear fruit when young plants grew upwards.

Vegetable growers see another advantage in the possibility of biological control during the period of crop change. At this time, there is a good biological balance, and in the traditional system for each culture, it must be created anew. In addition, young plants grow in more favorable conditions than the microclimate of an empty greenhouse. With low-volume cultivation and the use of a biohumus-based soil mixture, there is less risk of the appearance of the mottled mosaic virus.

The greatest benefit can be obtained by extending the growing period of the old crop by 3 weeks. During the crop change period, an additional 12 fruits can be obtained, for 3 cucumber crops this will be an additional 24 fruits per 1 m2 per growing season in periods with small supplies.

When using heat-insulating screens, it is preferable to heat greenhouses at night than during the day. Night and day temperatures equalize. Daytime temperatures, however, may be lower than nighttime temperatures. A change in temperature regimes: night to day and vice versa, when growing cucumbers on high trellises, seems promising. Less plant growth in height means less work to put plants on trellises, lowering plants, thinning vines and removing leaves. Considering that when grown on high trellises, plants can reach a height of 24 m, it can be assumed that the reduction in plant height will be significant.

The moment of transition from night to daytime temperature is very important. In the morning hours, plants still need additional heat for optimal formation of assimilates. When the daytime temperature is lower than the nighttime, low and strong plants with strong, heavier tops are formed. The percentage of defeat of Botrytis is also low. Sensitivity to Botrytis is lower because the temperature is quite high after sunrise. At the same time, after sunrise, the possibility of condensation on plants or fruits as a result of the difference between the temperature in the greenhouse and the temperature of the plants is small.

GROWING SALAD

The new system for growing lettuce uses LED lighting, it is possible to use multi-tiered ridges - this allows you to maximize the use of the greenhouse area.

This technology allows year-round production, which was previously not possible.

The whole cycle of growing a crop can be divided into 3 stages:

sowing and germination of seeds

growing seedlings

Growing up to a marketable appearance

Lettuce is grown 32-34 days, green 38-45.

Temperature regime: day 18-20 degrees. night 16-17 degrees.

The main thing is that compliance with all the envisaged measures allows growing environmentally friendly products.

Potato is an unpretentious culture: wherever you plant it, it will sprout and give a harvest. But the size of the crop with this approach does not always make us happy. All summer long, diligently look after potato plantings and collect 120–150 kg per hundred square meters - this achievement is clearly not something to be proud of. Russian agronomists believe that in our conditions it is realistic to collect at least 300–500 kg of potatoes per hundred square meters. It is only important to approach the issue of increasing productivity in the right way.

Autumn soil preparation. The battle for next year's harvest begins in the fall. Crop rotation on the site is organized in such a way that potatoes in the same place grow no more than once every 3-4 years. If the correct crop rotation cannot be organized, then soil fertility is restored using simple techniques:

• the golden rule of the potato grower: the land must not be empty. Immediately after harvesting, in August or early September, fast-growing green manure is sown on the site, for example, white mustard or watercress. In mid-October, the plants are mowed, and the site is dug up or plowed to a depth of at least 20 cm. Due to deep plowing, pests that have gone to winter are at the top and die due to frost;
• winter rye and oats are also used as green manure. From the secretions of rye roots, pathogenic fungi and bacteria that cause potato diseases die. If rye or oats are sown in late September - early October, and the site is dug up in the spring, then the soil will be simultaneously fertilized and disinfected;
• traps for Colorado beetles and bears are arranged along the edges of the field;
• in the fall, ash is introduced into the soil - potash fertilizer and protection from pests.

Solving the fertilizer problem

In the old days, potatoes were fertilized only with manure. Nowadays, due to the high cost, gardeners are trying to use manure sparingly or replace it.

The site should have a compost heap - a source of organic fertilizers, into which weeds, weeded to form seeds, and food waste are dumped. In such a pile, special humus worms are launched that process compost.

Compost replaces manure

If the site is located near the house, gardeners throw food waste into the compost heap throughout the year. It is more difficult for citizens to collect organic waste, especially in winter.

In any case, don't throw away. eggshell and onion peel: when planting potatoes, these substances are indispensable. Do not send potato peelings to the trash, as they contain useful elements. It is better to freeze the peel or dry it, and in the spring boil it and put it in a compost heap (raw peels cannot be added to the compost).

Supporters of organic farming have mastered an interesting method of processing food waste using the Baikal-EM bacteria concentrate. Waste is collected in large plastic containers with a tight-fitting lid or strong waterproof polyethylene bags (to reduce the moisture content of the biomass, the layers are sprinkled with sawdust). The advantage of the drug is that bacteria continuously process food waste, and there is no smell of decay if the container is hermetically sealed.

In order not to damage the plants, mineral fertilizers must be applied in accordance with the norms. For example, from an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, the tops will be lush and strong, and the tubers under it will be small.

planting material

Too small potatoes should not be left on the seeds: “peas” will grow from “peas”. In order to dig up potatoes of normal size in the fall, you need to plant tubers weighing at least 90-100 g, and they are exceptionally healthy, without signs of decay and rhizoctonia tubercles.

If a gardener constantly grows potatoes in the same place, using only his own planting material, after 5–6 years the variety degenerates. To prevent this from happening, planting material is updated every 4-5 years. Tubers cannot be bought in a market where potatoes are sold in an unknown year of reproduction. Elite varietal potatoes are expensive, so only a quarter of the planting material can be renewed each year.

To save money, it is useful to learn how to grow your own planting material from potato fruits - green "tomatoes". The tubers grown in this way will have all the best signs of their variety, and the gardener will receive free of charge disease-free, elite seed potatoes.

Planting material should not be very small

Tuber preplant preparation and planting methods

It is better to plant germinated tubers: then the potatoes will sprout faster and be more resistant to pests. Before planting, potatoes are treated with growth stimulants or insecticides. The simplest preparations for disinfection are copper sulfate and Bordeaux liquid.

Even in winter, you should consider how to increase the yield of potatoes using one of effective methods landing.

Can arrange high beds, planting potatoes in mulch, growing in bags or in barrels, with hilling and without hilling - there are no universal recommendations here: each gardener, experimenting, chooses the growing method that suits him.

Excellent results are obtained by growing potatoes according to the Mitlider method: in double beds 45 cm wide, the distance between which is 1 m. It has been proven that with this method of planting the tubers grow larger than with the usual ridge. In addition, less fertilizer and effort is required to process the bushes, since there is no need to weed between the rows. Mitlider himself received a ton of potatoes from a hundred square meters. Even under adverse conditions, this technique can significantly increase the yield of potatoes.

According to the Mitlider method, you can get up to 1000 kg of potatoes per hundred square meters

True, it is difficult for most gardeners to get used to the sight of meter-long empty row spacings: it seems that plant the tubers more densely - and there will be even more potatoes. So that the heart does not hurt because of the "empty" place, experienced potato growers advise sowing beans or peas in the aisles: these plants saturate the soil with nitrogen and repel Colorado beetles.

But even with the traditional method of planting, it is impossible to make row spacings narrower than 70–80 cm, otherwise, due to tightness, the tubers will grow too small. In addition, from the aisles they take land for hilling.

Potatoes should not be planted too deep, especially if the soil is clayey. It is better then to pile up and form high ridges: then more tubers will form, and in such ridges the root system will get more air and heat. The rows are oriented from north to south for uniform illumination by the sun.

Fertilizer, hilling, watering

IN farms where there is a lot of manure, in spring or autumn this fertilizer is scattered over the site. But if manure has to be saved, it is better to lay the substance directly into the holes before planting. It is permissible to use rotted manure (including rabbit), chicken manure, humus, mineral fertilizers. Additionally, a handful of ash, onion peels (repels Colorado potato beetles and wireworms), a tablespoon of eggshells are necessarily thrown into each hole.

White agrofibre is an indispensable thing for early potatoes

With the traditional method of planting, two hillings are carried out: the first - after germination, the second - when the bushes reach a height of 20–25 cm. In the absence of rain, potatoes need at least two waterings: when shoots appear and before budding. If the weather is dry and the soil at a depth of 8 cm from the surface has dried up, the bushes are additionally watered once or twice per season.

Mulch, laid on potato beds and between rows, retains moisture in the soil and inhibits the growth of weeds. Sawdust, straw, pine branches, cut weeds and green manure are used as mulch. To save time on weeding or mulching the beds, the soil can be covered with black agrofibre.

Pest and disease control

There are many folk, time-tested methods of pest control. In the spring, along the edges of the plot and in the aisles, traps for bears and Colorado beetles are set. Plants are periodically sprayed with a solution of ash and laundry soap, infusion of walnut or tobacco leaves, pollinated cornmeal. Against the Colorado potato beetles, an infusion made from the corpses of adults helps.

Effective remedies against pests and diseases are copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture. Without them, it is impossible to save even part of the crop in the event of a late blight epidemic.

When buying insecticides or fungicides in the store, you should use these drugs strictly according to the instructions.

"Shock therapy"

Agronomists have come up with many “shock” ways to increase potato yields. According to one method, before planting, a deep transverse incision is made on the tuber to wake up the lower buds, which usually do not germinate. And thanks to the annular incision in the upper part of the tuber, the juices will be evenly distributed between all the kidneys.

One of the options for an incision that increases productivity, according to some summer residents

When experimenting with cuts in planting potatoes, it is necessary to disinfect the knife each time in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. But the smell of a freshly cut tuber can attract pests.

Some gardeners advise picking off potato flowers to increase productivity. In this case, there is no particular increase in yield, but a bush that has lost flowers is traumatized, since blooming and producing fruits is the meaning of the life of a bush.

In areas where Colorado potato beetles are very common, you should not break off the tops of potato sprouts when they reach a height of 25 cm. This method was developed a century and a half ago, when there were no beetles yet. A bush with damaged tops is defenseless against pests.

Harvesting

In order not to ruin the already grown crop, the potato tops are mowed when it starts to dry (2 weeks before harvesting). Due to this, pathogenic fungi and bacteria (including phytophthora) from the stems will not fall on the tubers. The peel of potatoes in the ground will harden, and it will remain until spring.

I will list some positions in cultivation technology that provide an answer to the question of how to increase potato yields. How to get good harvest potatoes? You will learn what gardeners and agronomists-specialists pay attention to in the process of growing potatoes. Your choice, your right to take note of them is not. But I have no doubt that they will help you navigate, choose the appropriate ways to increase your yield.

Variety Luck

The longer the leaves stay green, the higher the yield of potatoes will be.

I found this observation interesting, as it is often said that plants should not be overfed with nitrogen - this encourages the growth of green mass at the expense of potato tubers. However, good leaf volume means that a green potato bush has more area to capture sunlight, which is converted into energy by photosynthesis for tuber growth. This helps the plant develop a good root system that draws water and nutrients from the soil. Consequently, the gardener's efforts to increase the green mass will allow him to collect more potatoes.

The quality and quantity of stems affects the yield of potatoes

That is, the more stems, the more powerful the bush. And this means that the more potatoes you dig up. The stalks (stolons) that grow from the eyes of seed potatoes are the main ones and usually it is on them that the tubers of the new crop are formed. Therefore, by increasing the number of main stems, there will be more tubers in this bush. But take a closer look at the bush. It can look powerful even with a small number of stolons. It's just that the main stem may have side shoots, which we will call secondary. They usually do not form tubers. They can and should be removed so that they do not take energy from the main stem. This technique will also help increase the yield.

Watering potatoes

This is a key step in growing potatoes. Of course, it is advisable to water it throughout the entire growth cycle. And especially in hot dry weather if you want to keep planting. But it is important that it is in moist soil precisely in the first 3-4 weeks after the leaves appear from the ground. Do not forget that the wetter the land, the more likely it is to reap a large crop.

Drying of potato leaves

When the foliage begins to die off - the plant comes to the end of its life cycle. But you should pay attention to where the foliage begins to die off. It is very important. If the leaves start to turn yellow at the bottom of the bush, then this is normal - you should dig out healthy tubers. However, if the lower leaves are healthy but the upper leaves are turning yellow, then the cause may be a pest or disease attack, so the potato bush is not getting enough nutrition. Some action must be taken urgently. The measures taken will depend on the signs of the disease or on what pests you find. If it is late blight, then there are one measures, and if you find signs of scab or rhizoctoniosis, then the methods of struggle are different. Pest control measures are also different - with the wireworm - one, and with the Colorado potato beetle - others. During Taken measures to combat diseases or pests will, if not increase, then at least preserve the crop.

Processing with a solution of copper sulphate and a high yield of potatoes

If potatoes are sprayed with a solution 1-2 weeks before harvesting blue vitriol(50 g per 10 liters of water), then the tops begin to dry out. It will wither, lose moisture, and nutrients will pass into the tubers, which will significantly speed up ripening, increase the yield and its quality.

Spraying potato bushes with a solution of superphosphate

How to spray potato tops for tuber growth? Answer: sulfate solution. This is another way to increase productivity. Spraying with a solution of superphosphate slows down the growth of tops, increases the outflow nutrients from leaves to tubers. The result is an increase in yield. Superphosphate is poorly soluble, so it must be thoroughly mixed. Experts advise to infuse superphosphate granules in water for 1-2 hours, but I came to the conclusion that it is best to leave the solution overnight. After several stirrings, defend it and drain the top layer of the solution into another bucket. Ten liters should be enough for one hundred square meters. Do this during the flowering period or after it.

Treatment of potatoes with magnesium chlorate

In cool, humid summers, this technique will speed up ripening and increase the yield. Dissolve 200 g of the drug in a bucket of water. Spray the tops with this solution. A bucket of solution should be enough for one hundred square meters.

Peas planted in the same hole with potatoes allows you to increase the yield

It also repels the Colorado potato beetle. It is enough to plant 5 peas per hole.

Grass as fertilizer for potatoes

To increase the yield of potatoes allows a unique way of planting it in trenches, pre-filled with mowed grass. From above, the seed tubers are again covered with mowed grass. This method allows not only to harvest several times more, but to do without hilling, without weeding. For more information about this method of growing, see the video.