Spike connection dovetail markings. DIY dovetail connection. How to make a cross connection

If you want to make solid wood furniture, you will have to take certain precautions against warping the wood. The list of such measures includes the selection of the appropriate compound.

There are many known ways to connect wood parts so that they do not deform in the future. One of the most effective is the dovetail. The parts are connected to each other in such a way that it is almost impossible to separate them even without glue. Each thorn is clamped as if by pincers. The strength of the connection is further enhanced by the fact that the area of ​​the docking areas covered with glue is much larger here than with a simple connection without spikes.

In addition, the dovetail connection can rightly be called decorative, since it can decorate any piece of furniture, of course, provided that all the teeth are made carefully and accurately. And this will require painstaking work with a saw and a chisel. All grooves and tenons must fit exactly together, and all fugues must be equally narrow. From the first time, such accuracy is hardly achievable: first try to gain experience by processing simple boards.

Many interesting and beautiful examples dovetail joints can be seen when looking at old furniture.

The dovetail joint is considered the most beautiful, reliable and durable corner joint. It is not so easy to execute it.

It's done like this

• Cut out pieces of the desired length from the boards.
• On one of the boards, mark the spikes and grooves.
• Transfer the markings from the front face of the board to the end and then to the back face.
• Saw grooves and cut them out with a chisel.
• Using the processed board, mark the location of the spikes and grooves on the other board.
• After processing the second board, try to connect both parts without glue and make corrections if necessary.
• Apply glue to the joints, carefully connect the parts and hold under pressure until the glue seizes.

WHAT YOU NEED

materials:

Wood blanks Clay.

Tools:

• Ruler.
• Pencil.
• Awl or knife.
• Square.
• Tenon saw.
• Chisels of suitable width.
• Crafting table.
• Clamps.
• Hammer.
• Mallet.

The shape of the grooves and spikes in the dovetail joint

The beauty of this box is in the harmony of the material and the corresponding design using the dovetail connection.

Homemade stud bevel marking tool: Cut out a template from a thin metal sheet and shape it accordingly.

Carry out marking on the part having the required length

Before marking the spikes and grooves, measure the part again, it must have the required width. If the width of the part is larger than it should be, then the markup will be inaccurate and, therefore, unusable.

Choose the right chisel

Before you start grooving, check if the chisel you have is the right size for them. Take care of the right tool in advance if you plan to make very thin spikes. Chisels come in various widths - from 4 to 40 mm.

Bar protects against damage

When connecting parts, never hit the mallet directly on the wood. Use a small piece of wood to protect parts from damage.

Learn more about the dovetail connection

When making a dovetail connection, both parts are interlocked by means of a special form of teeth. The upright board shown in the figure has spikes that fit into the grooves of the horizontal board. Connecting and disconnecting boards is possible only with the vertical position of the spikes. Otherwise, this cannot be done.

The boards connected in this way react differently to the load. And therefore, it does not matter in which part to make grooves, and in which - spikes.

In drawers, spikes are made on the front board, grooves - in the side walls. Since the greatest load on the box occurs when it is pulled out, the connection will be most durable precisely with this arrangement of the spikes.

In a hinged shelf, the maximum load falls on parts located horizontally.

They should be with spikes that will hold curly grooves in vertically arranged parts.

The spikes should always be narrower than the grooves, especially when using dense and durable wood. The peculiarity of the dovetail connection is also that the spikes and grooves in the finished product look different than when unfolded - as shown in the figure below.

Uniform distribution

Products with dovetail corner joints are not covered with colored varnish. Therefore, the location of the spikes and grooves must be uniform across the entire width of the parts. Extreme spikes may be slightly wider or narrower. All other spikes and grooves should be the same.

Drawing dovetail spikes

Experienced carpenters can distribute the teeth almost by hand. For those who are just starting to master this method of connecting parts, we recommend using a ruler.

For boards up to 15 cm wide, mark out, for example, four spikes and three grooves or five spikes and four grooves. For boards up to 20 cm wide - five spikes and four grooves or six spikes and five grooves. An approximate distribution scheme is as follows: the ratio of the average thickness of the tenon to the average width of the groove is 1:2.

You can very accurately draw the spikes and their bevels according to the scheme shown in the figures on the right.

Other ways of division are also possible. You can choose, for example, a smaller width of the spikes. In the so-called English connection, the spikes are very narrow, and the grooves are wide. However, in any case, the studs should not be beveled too large to damage the narrow parts of the grooves.

Mark the thickness of the board on the part parallel to the end edge, then half the thickness and then draw a line, the distance to which from the end is equal to the thickness of the board multiplied by three. To now accurately distribute the four spikes and three grooves, put marks on the oblique auxiliary line, the distance between which is a multiple of 10. Then transfer this division to the marking lines.

Here, dashed lines show the middle lines of the grooves: the points of their intersection with the auxiliary line at a distance of “triple thickness” of the board are very important for the final marking.

From the points of intersection of the middle lines of the grooves with the auxiliary line, draw lines through the points on the marking line "half the thickness of the board". Thus, the spikes and grooves will be marked very accurately.

markup

So, you have outlined the spikes and grooves on the front face of the board. Now you need to transfer the markup to the end side.

To do this, you need a square and a well-sharpened pencil, awl or knife. Depending on the type of wood, it may be useful or even necessary to cover the front side of the board with chalk: the markings will be more visible on a white background. From the end side, the markings are transferred to the back of the board.

The marking will be more accurate if the part is fixed on the workbench.

Marking from symmetrical elements on one part should be applied simultaneously so that, for example, the contours of the spikes in the corners drawer matched.

With the help of a sharpened pencil (or awl) and a square, the marking lines are transferred from the front face to the end side of the board.

Grooving

After transferring the marking lines, before starting to cut, shade the drop-out areas on the details - the gaps between the spikes. So you will not confuse anything with further sawing and working with a chisel.

The part should be fixed on the workbench in such a way that the marking lines of the bevels parallel to each other take a strictly vertical position. This is easy to do if you use a square. Saw first the grooves on one side, then turn the part over, fasten and saw through the remaining bevels of the grooves.

Install the saw not on the marking line, but close to it on a drop-down section of wood. From time to time check on both sides of the board if the saw is pointing correctly or if the cut needs to be corrected.

The grooves are cut with a chisel, which should be held strictly vertically. In this case, the position of the part itself must be horizontal. It is possible to guide the chisel more accurately when another board is fixed on top of the part, the edge of which runs along the line marking the depth of the grooves.

First, the grooves are processed with a chisel on one side of the part. After a recess is made about half the thickness of the board, it is turned over and the grooves are completed. This method avoids cracking of the board, as well as inaccuracies in the processing of grooves.

Fasten the part so that the marking lines take a strictly vertical position. Check with a square.

To cut grooves with a chisel, fix the parts on the workbench in a horizontal position. The part must not slide.

Saw only the sides with the same slope. Turn over and fasten the part, saw through the other sides.

spikes

Experienced carpenters prefer to first make the spikes and then cut the grooves on another board. But you can do it differently: use the ready-made grooves in order to mark spikes on another board.

At the same time, it is also recommended to cover the end side with chalk so that marking lines are not lost on a dark tree with catchy growth rings. The latter must be carried out very accurately. To do this, you can use an awl or a well-honed pencil.

Transferring layout lines

Marking lines from the end side of the board to the front and back plates are transferred strictly at right angles to the end. The length of the spikes depends on the thickness of the grooved board. These marking lines must also be perfectly accurate. It is better to mark the depth of the spikes not with the help of a board with grooves, but by measuring the length of the spikes from the end edge, transfer these dimensions to the corresponding part. Otherwise, the spikes may turn out to be longer than necessary.

When marking, keep in mind that the front should be the best side of the board, and the marking lines should be as accurate as possible.

It is advisable to cover the dark wood details with chalk so that the marking lines are better visible and the cuts are more accurate.

Compound

To cut spikes on the part, it is again firmly clamped, but this time the position of the board should be strictly vertical, as well as the cuts, which are only slightly beveled in a different plane, either to the left or to the right.

Fixing the part

To make cuts, the saw is also installed close to the marking line on the drop-down area of ​​​​wood. After completing the work with a saw, the part is fixed on a workbench in a horizontal position and proceed to the processing of intermediate sections between the spikes with a chisel. As with grooving, the notch is made only half the thickness of the board, after which the part is turned over and the “extra” wood is removed from the opposite side. At the same time, you can slightly correct the cuts if there is more than necessary between the marking lines of the wood.

First make cuts only on the left or right side of the spikes, then parallel cuts on the other side.

After removing the intermediate sections between the spikes, carefully trim the saw cuts with a chisel.

Gluing

Before you evenly and thinly apply glue to all the spikes and grooves, lightly sand the surfaces to be glued with sandpaper, without rounding the edges. Then try to connect the parts without glue. You will immediately see if they fit together and what else can be corrected.

Carefully connect the boards so that the spikes and grooves do not split. Keep in mind that the grooves are especially often cracked.

Glue is applied evenly in a thin layer over the entire surface of the spike. To do this, use the spout of a bottle of glue or a thin brush.

Joiner's putty will help correct mistakes

With an ideal connection of spikes and grooves, all butt joints are very tight, without the slightest gaps, which not only reduce the strength of the connection, but also spoil appearance products. However, even experienced carpenters do not always achieve a perfect result, so you should not be upset if the connection needs to be corrected in some places.

Proceed as follows. Spread a plastic sheet under the workbench and shake off the sawdust on it. From sawdust and glue, make carpentry putty, which will help you make small adjustments.

Although ready-made carpentry putties and mastics of various colors are available for sale, home-made putty has advantages: it contains sawdust of the wood with which you are currently working, that is, this putty will fully match the tone of your product.

Putty should be applied carefully, in small portions, filling only the cracks. It is better to compact and level the puttied areas with a chisel blade, and not with a spatula.

Homemade putty will help you correct errors such as chipped chips or inaccuracies in work.

Sample

Wedge-shaped spikes can be quickly and accurately cut with a cutter using a special drill bit and template. In this case, during one working operation, two parts are processed at once, installed with a slight offset to each other. True, their connection differs markedly from the dovetail connection made in the traditional way, since with machining details, all the spikes and grooves are the same. For this reason, the connection cannot be considered decorative, but it is also beautiful in its own way, and most importantly, very reliable. The distribution of tenons and grooves in such a connection depends on the size of the cutter used.

You can quickly cut the spikes with a cutter if you use a special nozzle for a drill.

This is how a template is used for cutting spikes with a cutter fixed in a drill.

How to make a spiked box joint hand tool.
Multi-thorn box connections are classic carpentry technologies. They are still used in the production of high-quality furniture. Of course, in our time, more simple and quick ways box assemblies. I myself usually assemble boxes on self-tapping screws, but I will write about this in another article. Here I propose to remember how this was done from time immemorial with a hand tool.

Actually, the questions of making spikes by hand sometimes arise if you don’t have special tools and fixtures at hand. And buying an expensive machine for one-time work does not make sense. True, you must understand in advance that manual work requires care and accuracy.

From the tools you will need a hacksaw-award, a set of chisels, a mallet. For marking a pencil and a metal ruler. The award differs from a regular hacksaw not only with a small tooth, but also with a special “back” overlay on the upper edge of the saw. This overlay provides additional rigidity of a cloth.

Spikes can be made self-gripping, i.e. dovetail or straight. It is better to start with straight lines, dovetail can be used when some experience appears. The details of the box in the photo are from MDF, but this is not the point, the wood blanks are processed in the same way.

1. Let's start with marking the ends of the parts. Drawer slats 100 mm wide. divided into five equal parts. Let's break them into squares 20/20 mm. , then we will combine the ends of the parts and shade the squares with a pencil through one.

That is, a clean square should be located opposite the shaded one. When making spikes, we need to remove the painted areas.

2. For ease of use, the part must be clamped vertically. If you do not have a carpentry workbench, then fix the part with two clamps to the desktop. To do this, clamp a wooden block on the edge of the table with one clamp, and pull the part to the bar with the other.

3. We cut the spikes along the markup, and note that you need to cut not along the line, but so that the marking lines remain on the side of the saw. If the cuts are made exactly along the line, the spikes will be loose and assembly of the box will become a problem. You will have to glue veneer or chips into the gaps, in general, hemorrhoids and poor-quality work. We are sawing out the areas shaded with a pencil, so the saw must be inside the shaded sector. We make cuts to a marking depth, in this case 20 mm.

4. With a chisel or cutter, select the segments between the cuts.

We take the part out of the clamp and lay it flat on the table. With a chisel we align the shoulders between the spikes. In order not to spoil the table, it is better to put a planed board or a piece of plywood under the workpiece. A wooden mallet may be needed, see .

5. When all the spikes are propylene and decorated, we carry out the initial assembly. If during assembly the spikes do not fit into place, it's okay, you need to fit the parts using a chisel or cutter (knife). For a quality assembly, fractions of a millimeter matter, therefore, for an accurate fit, it is better to work the spikes with a file or a large sandpaper on a long bar.

I once had to make not only boxes on spikes, but also knit wooden window frames using hand tools. There, the principles of work are the same, the spikes and lugs were first cut out according to the markings with a saw - an award, and then cut down the excess in the lugs with a chisel.

If you need to make a lot of spiked boxes, then it's better to think about purchasing a power tool. Such spikes can be made manual router mounted on a "table", or on a small stationary circular with a variable saw height. For both options, you will need to make a device for precise cuts. But it seems to me that making such a device is no more difficult than manually preparing parts for several boxes.

The reliability and aesthetics of complex wood structures largely depend on right choice way to connect it constituent parts. This is especially true for frame products, load-bearing structures, where safety parameters come to the fore.

Quality connection wooden parts- a guarantee of durability, the basis of an attractive type of product, an indicator of the skill and professionalism of a carpenter and joiner.

Connection type selection

In general, there are a huge number of types of joints of wooden blanks, so you can only talk about some of them, the most common.

One of the most simple ways to build up a wooden part (beam, log, board), to increase its width is the end connection. There are several options for its implementation. Often a simple and functional half-thickness (half-tree) method is used. Depending on the expected load on the part, the cut can be even or oblique. In some cases, the joint is strengthened with curly cutouts - locks. This type of connection prevents stretching, twisting, bending. So the timber is spliced ​​together for the purpose of lengthening.

Creating three-dimensional frames or wooden frames requires reliable connections at various angles. In this case, it is rational to use a thorn-groove or thorn-eye connection. The nodes at the junction of the parts withstand the load of displacement, bending and compression. If the design requires high tensile strength, cutouts are made in a trapezoidal shape.

Additional connections of frame products, giving rigidity to the structure, are implemented using T-shaped or cruciform connections. The main load at the joints is compression, displacement and rupture. IN special occasions the design is additionally reinforced with metal corners, screws or nails.

To connect the boards to each other in box structures at a right angle, it is convenient to use a special box groove. As the name implies, this method is often used to create three-dimensional structures, including furniture boxes. A well-made box joint looks monolithic, has an attractive appearance and can withstand impressive loads. When creating wooden furniture, a connection is often used on dowels, pins and dominoes (when the groove has an oblong shape, as opposed to a round dowel).

Spike connection (thorn groove)

The simplest and one of the most reliable is the thorn-groove connection. It is widely used in carpentry. In a similar way, wooden parts of window frames are assembled into a single whole, a variety of parts of cabinet furniture, plywood sheets are made. The essence of this method is that a spike is made at the end of one part to be joined, which is inserted into the groove of another part and fixed in it.

For work, it is convenient to use a special lamellar milling cutter; for lack of such, you can get by with a simple hand tool. You will need:

• hand saw with a fine tooth;
• electric or hand drill;
• several chisels of different widths;
• sandpaper;
• measuring tool, square and pencil.

First mark the blanks. The parameters of the tongue and groove depend on the parameters of the wooden parts and the configuration of the product, however, it is worth considering a few general recommendations.

Important! The thickness of the spike should be about a third of the thickness of the part, the width should be 70-80% of the width, the length should be equal to the thickness of the workpiece to be joined.

The groove parameters must also meet these criteria. In any case, it is important to ensure that the dimensions of the tongue and groove match. Parts should be connected easily, without pressure, but not fall out under their own weight. There should be no backlash, cracks and distortion.

The groove is cut first, this sequence is due to the fact that the spike is much easier to fit under the groove than vice versa. With the help of a saw, cuts are made, excess wood is removed with a drill, the bottom of the groove and the walls are leveled with chisels.

In most cases, only wood glue is enough to fix the parts; screws or nails will help to ensure maximum strength.

Half tree connection

Often used in carpentry various options half-wood joints (simple or straight lock). This type of assembly of wooden structures is characterized by ease of manufacture and high reliability. The following varieties are distinguished:

• cross connection;
• half a tree - dovetail;
• gusset;
• on the mustache;
• half-tree splicing.

The first two methods are used to connect parts that intersect at right angles. Especially popular is the dovetail, in which the cutout shape is a trapezoid and the sides do not go at a right angle. The groove of the lock slightly expands from the end, providing a more secure fit. It should be noted that tenon connection can also be called a dovetail if the spikes are cut in the form of a trapezoid.

The second and third ways form a finished corner. Splicing is used if necessary to increase the length of the workpiece.

How to make a cross connection

One of the simplest is the cross connection. It is easy to manufacture, even a novice carpenter can master its wisdom. The work is done in the following order:

• marking is done. The parts to be joined overlap each other. Draw a line with a ruler. Thickness markings are applied with a thickness gauge;
• the first part is clamped in a vise. With a hand saw, carefully, along the lines, a cut is made to the mark left by the thickness gauge. The workpiece is rotated. A second cut is made;
• the workpiece is removed from the vise. With the help of a sharp chisel and a wooden mallet, part of the wood is removed between the cuts;
• processing the second part;
• the planes are leveled with sandpaper or an abrasive bar.

Now you can join the wooden blanks. The connection must be tight, without backlash and gaps. If the product is one-piece, the joints are coated with carpentry glue, the design is additionally reinforced with screws.

Formation of corners on the mustache

One of better ways creating corners of various volumetric products is a joint on a mustache. It allows you to create monolithic structure, hide the fibers of the butt, thereby providing an attractive look. This method is suitable for a wide variety of products, but is most often used for the manufacture of frames and cabinet furniture parts.

To create a connection in each of the wooden parts, cuts are made at an angle equal to half the angle at which the workpieces meet. Most often, this angle is straight, therefore, the cuts are made at 45 degrees, however, the angle can vary widely. Work is performed according to the following algorithm.

First mark out the details. It is important not to forget that the markup is carried out along the long side, otherwise you can not guess with the dimensions.

On the edges to be connected, draw a line at the required angle. With a combined square, the markup is transferred to each side of the workpiece. Then a cut is made, for which it is better to use an electric miter saw, but you can also work with a hand tool. When working with a hacksaw, it is important to control the angle of the cut; it would be useful to use a bar as a guide.

Finished parts are applied to each other, checking the accuracy of fit. Irregularities will have to be smoothed out with a hand planer, bring the angle with a sandpaper. Carpentry glue is applied to both surfaces, and the product is fixed with the help of clamps. Additional strength can be achieved with the help of carnations. When working with a hammer, it is important to control the force of impact so that the workpieces do not move.

Particularly important connections are reinforced with bars, which are glued into inner corner. The joint, which will not be visible, can be further strengthened with a metal square.

As a result of high-quality work, a perfect seam will turn out. If a small gap has formed, then it can be hidden by straightening the adjacent wood fibers using a smooth cylindrical surface. For this, the rod of a conventional screwdriver is suitable.

Spike in the eye

Corner and tee (example: T-connection window frame) intersections are conveniently performed using the thorn-comb in the eyelet method. In this case, the eye is made at the end of the vertical part, cuts for the tenon - in its horizontal component.

Work begins with the marking of the eye. The workpiece thickness is divided by three. With a thin hacksaw, cuts are made to a depth equal to the width of the other workpiece. With the help of chisels, excess wood is removed, the walls of the eye are leveled with sandpaper.

Mark the second blank. The width of the stud should be equal to the width of the first workpiece, the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the stud. The cuts are made with a hand saw, the depth and angle of inclination are carefully controlled. Excess is removed with a chisel.

The final finishing in thickness is performed with sandpaper. Parts should be connected with light force and not fall apart under their own weight.

Thorn in the jack

More complex connection is the way the thorn in the socket. It requires more skill, but is much more reliable and durable. The scope of use is the same as in the previous case, namely, T-shaped joints. The difference of this method lies in the fact that the spike is made at the end of the vertical part, a nest is sawn out in the body of the horizontal.

This is one of the most common furniture joints. There is a connection with a through spike and with a deaf one. The difference is that in the first case, a through nest is cut out, in the second, a slot is made to a certain depth.

Features of the Japanese carpentry connection

Unprecedented heights of carpentry art were reached by Japanese masters. Using traditional techniques, combining Various types connections, they create accurate and reliable joints without the use of nails and other fasteners. Docking of various wooden parts is carried out solely due to the force of friction.

The reliability of these connections is based on an accurate cut. Perfectly matched lock lines on both mating parts allow you to create a connection with impeccable accuracy. Complex lock configurations require a lot of experience, knowledge and ability to use the tool, but if you wish, all this can be learned.

Rallying boards

Quality wood is expensive, buy good board with the necessary parameters is not always possible, and not always necessary. To make, for example, a tabletop, it is not at all necessary to look for a table-wide board; with carpentry skills, you can create the perfect wooden canvas with the required settings.

There are many payment options. A board with a spike and a groove, the so-called lining, is widespread. It allows you to create smooth wooden surfaces large area. A simplified version of it is often used - a board with a quarter joint.

Rallying for a smooth fugue (butt)

The easiest way that does not require additional elements. The side faces of the boards are jointed, it is better to do this in pairs, clamping both adjacent boards in a vise and simultaneously processing them. Such processing will create an accurate surface on which the irregularities of one board will be compensated for by the irregularities of the other. Both boards are smeared with glue and fixed until it is completely solidified.

Rallying load-bearing elements

There are several ways to extend (build up) a board that is part of the supporting structure. The simplest and most reliable is a half-tree connection, followed by an overlay on the junction of reinforcing strips. Non-critical areas can be reinforced with plywood.

The same method is used for articulating boards at different angles. Precisely made cuts of the articulated parts make it possible to do without reinforcing pads, it is enough to fix the boards at the junction with screws.

Cutting without residue means that the laid logs will form an even corner, their ends will not protrude beyond the building, its separate variety is a warm corner. Cutting with the remainder, in turn, means that an interweaving of protruding ends will form at the corners of the building. The second method is more expensive in terms of the amount of material, but the building retains heat better and is more stable.

There are various ways to connect wood parts, the ability to determine the best one for a particular type of work will significantly diversify the range of products that a master can make. The correctly chosen method will provide an attractive appearance to the product and guarantee the reliability of the three-dimensional structure.

What is a dovetail connection

Figure 8. Dovetail spike connection.

• a - the distance between the spikes
• b - spike width
• in - groove width
• g - interval (one third of the width of the spike)

In the construction of wooden houses, one of the most durable and beautiful joints is the dovetail. In it, all the parts hold each other very firmly, you can even not use glue. Each of the structural details tightly clamps the spikes of the other, and displacement does not occur. The connection surface is also quite large, often larger than other studded designs.

Rice. 9. Varieties of the dovetail connection

• a - open connection
• b - semi-hidden connection
• c - semi-secret connection made by machine

"Dovetail" - a spiked connection that is performed in a certain order. Preparatory part: you need to measure the blanks, then mark the grooves and spikes, providing for the obligatory bevels. Then the markup must be transferred from the wider side to the end of the part and then to the opposite side.

After that, you should file the grooves and cut them out with a chisel. Using a pre-prepared board, mark the places where spikes and grooves are planned on another board. The latter along the inner edges are cleaned at an angle to prevent the tree from splitting. Upon completion of their actions, you need to connect both parts without glue. If necessary, you should correct the design, glue the parts by pressing them so that the glue dries better.

The dovetail connection provides for the engagement of parts with specially shaped teeth. The spikes are driven into special grooves that are on the edged board (horizontally located). Boards can only be connected and disconnected when the spikes are vertical, otherwise it is impossible. The types and methods of dovetail connections differ only in the shape of the spikes (Fig. 9).

These compounds are used only for those parts that are not covered with colored varnish and paints. Therefore, the spikes and grooves of the product must be evenly spaced across its entire width and must be identical (except for the extreme ones). This will ensure good connection quality.

Rice. 10. Marking the connection "dovetail"

• a - c - execution sequence

To mark the connection correctly, you need to accurately select the bevels of the dovetail spikes. The sequence of operations (Fig. 10) during this work must be clearly observed (in particular, when drawing out). First, at the attachment point, you need to mark the thickness of the adjacent part on the blank board, then mark half of this length and the line to which the distance is three times greater than the thickness of this part. If it is necessary in the future to make the surface of the workpiece for three grooves and four spikes, it is necessary to put marks on the line, which serves as an auxiliary one. This distance should be divisible by 10. The distance figure that we received, in units of division, must be transferred to the marking line (Fig. 10, a).

The next step: with light strokes, you need to mark the middle lines on the workpiece where the grooves will be located. At this stage, the middle lines of the grooves are marked with dashed lines on the workpiece (Fig. 10, b). And finally, auxiliary lines are also drawn from the points of intersection of the middle lines to the auxiliary marking line through the points on the line "half the thickness of the board" (Fig. 10, c).

To mark the bevels of the spikes, you can use a sheet of metal, for example, tin, and make a blank out of it (Fig. 11). For this purpose, the master cuts out the appropriate shape, cleans the edges, treats the surface, if necessary (for example, from rust).

Rice. 11. Device for marking bevels of spikes

After the marking lines are transferred, you need to shade the drop-out areas on the product, and also mark the gaps between the spikes so as not to confuse what to cut and what not. This is very useful when using a chisel. And then you can start sawing.

First, those areas where the slope is the same are sawn through, and then the part is turned over and its other edges are sawn. Periodically check on all sides that the blade is pointing correctly and that the cut does not need to be corrected. When grooves are cut, the chisel should only be held vertically, and the part at this time should be attached to the workbench in a strictly horizontal position.

First you need to make grooves with a chisel on one side of the board, approximately to its middle. Then you need to turn the board over and make grooves on its other side. First, according to the rules, it is better to make spikes, then start making grooves on another board. You can do it differently: first make grooves, then use them to mark the spikes on the other side of the board, the end. So you will not lose the marking lines on the dark wood material.

To connect the parts together, you need to clamp them tightly, always vertically. The cuts must be made so that they are parallel to the length of the board. Light beveling now to the right, then to the left is allowed. Before applying glue to the surface, it is necessary to process it with sandpaper, except for the edges, which should not be rounded.

Then you should connect the boards in such a way that the grooves and spikes cannot split. To connect parts made of wood, you need to use a mallet (Fig. 12). It is important to avoid direct impacts on a wooden product. It is worth using a separate bar in order to protect parts from damage and cracks.

Rice. 12. Using a mallet when joining wooden parts

Upon completion of the connection of the parts with the help of spikes, you need to correct the errors with carpentry putty. It needs to be distributed over the cracks, and not over the entire area. corner connection. Therefore, it is better to take a chisel, and not a large spatula. It is better to press the putty in those places where correction is needed, and not in all in a row. Instead of a chisel and a teething saw complex types spikes today, most carpenters use special machinery. There are also certain types of cutters for cutting grooves. If you equip it with a special guiding device, you will get perfect grooves in the wood with a uniform distribution.

Figure 13. Prevention of slot splitting in a dovetail joint

• 1 - bevels
• 2 - additional bar

There are also effective ways in order to cut grooves using metal templates. They are used by attaching to a drill. To prevent the grooves from splitting, small bevels are made for the dovetail connection. They are performed along the edges on the inner area of ​​the spikes. The process of gluing the joint called "dovetail" must be done sequentially. It will also require an additional bar. It will help to properly distribute the load - only the connecting grooves will receive it. This will help prevent damage to the spikes (fig. 13).

It is believed that the dovetail castle has maritime roots; ships with a wooden hull were fastened into the dovetail. Such a connection turned out to be the most resistant to wetting wood and multidirectional loads caused by sea waves. The main advantage of the technology was the reliable joining of wooden parts without the use of additional fasteners, the reliability of fastening is ensured by the lock of the original trapezoidal shape. As part of the ship carpenters' tool, there was a special saw with the name "dovetail".

Traditionally in Rus', the crowns of the log house were placed “into a bowl”, such a clutch was cut down with an ax. With the advent of a solid carpentry tool, they began to lay the log house "in the paw", the connection had a rectangular spike. A further improvement of this lock was the use of a dovetail stud with a trapezoidal profile.

The dovetail technology for attaching timber has become the main one in industrial housing construction, the dimensions and features of the connection are determined by GOST 30974-2002. The introduction of the standard created favorable conditions for the development of low-rise housing construction, domestic wooden houses of industrial production are not inferior in quality to Finnish samples.

The standard establishes the types of carpentry connections in the dovetail:

• Connection "in the paw";
• Deaf "frying pan";
• Open "frying pan";
• Fastening with a trapezoidal dowel.

A distinctive feature of these types of fasteners is the tenon-groove design, which has a trapezoidal shape with a straight base.

Fixing the beam “in the paw” is the easiest way to build a log house, a reliable grip is provided by a trapezoid-shaped spike, which is cut down in the end part of each row of the crown. A correctly made and assembled lock securely fixes the log crowns in all planes. The fastening is universal, it is used for the construction of a log house from a bar and rounded logs, the “paw” connection is most often used in construction for shrinkage.

The design is distinguished by the absence of ends protruding beyond the corners of the building; such a lock is called a “pure corner”. The spike in this design is the bearing element and carries the main load. For the construction of a log house in a "clean corner", it is recommended to use a beam of maximum standard sizes, with a side of at least 250 mm.

It is quite difficult to make dovetail fasteners with your own hands, to avoid mistakes, use a full-sized dovetail stud template for timber, the sample can be cut out of tin or thick paper. The template is applied to the end and outlined, the boundaries of the cuts are marked with a hammer and chisel. Cuts are made by hand circular saw. The easiest way is to make oblique cuts after 10-15 mm, squeeze the trim with an ax and clean it with a chisel.

The advantage of the technology is the ability to work with lumber of natural moisture, in this case, the spike is made with an allowance of 5-7%. The allowance will lead to the formation of gaps between the crowns, which will be eliminated naturally during the shrinkage process.

Disadvantages and features of the dovetail connection:

• "Clean corner" has through slots that can expand over time;
• The log house does not have closed crowns, on each wall the masonry is shifted by half a beam, the structure must be reinforced with dowels;
• The corners of the building have an unpresentable appearance and do not decorate the facade;
• The developer is limited in choosing the standard size of lumber.

According to the technology, a log house in a dovetail is being built country houses economy class, baths and outbuildings, such construction is low-cost and affordable for a mass developer.

Deaf frying pan

This method in construction practice allows you to take full advantage of the trapezoidal fastening, a feature is the secret T-shaped groove-thorn connection. The size of the stud does not exceed half a beam and is completely recessed into the body of the beam. The corner of the house, assembled using this technology, was called the "warm corner". The lock provides reliable grip in the crown without through slots, when processed with construction sealant, it creates a completely sealed space. In the same way, a timber is built up if its length is less than the length of the wall.

The sawing of the profile is carried out according to the drawing using a circular and edge saw. A rectangular blank for a spike and a groove is cut out with a circular, a given shape is given with a special hand saw. To cut the groove, you can use a hand mill, workplace easy to equip yourself.

Advantages of the deaf "frying pan" fastening technology:

• Improved thermal insulation of the building;
• You can use lumber of any size;
• The castle is “hidden”, the facade takes on an attractive appearance;
• During construction, you can use a beam with a smaller profile;
• Provides economical use of building material.

The main feature is the increased requirement for wood moisture - lumber must have a moisture content of no more than 20%. The technology is widely used by manufacturers finished houses"Full construction".

open frying pan

This method is used in the construction of internal partitions from a bar, laying a log for the floor and ceilings. The groove is cut across the entire width of the beam. The lock resembles a “paw” connection in a T-shaped version and provides fixation of the structure in a horizontal plane. This mount is simple, can be cut with a circular saw and processed with a chisel.

A simplified version of the frying pan lock is a profile in the form of a rectangular trapezoid, fasteners are called semi-frying pans. This fastening is designed for wetter wood and is popular with individual developers.

Trapezoidal key fastening

The dovetail connection scheme was further developed in key fastening. The key in the form of a butterfly, formed by two trapezoidal shapes, is made of hardwood. The groove is cut on modern milling machines. For a dovetail keyway, the fastening dimensions are minimized, but this design ensures reliable fastening of wooden structures of any complexity, and allows you to put the production of wood products on stream.

Key technology features:

• Requires precise processing of wood using modern technology and devices;
• Minimizes the consumption of resources and material;
• Keeps an attractive look of wood grain;
• Allows you to craft wooden structures any complexity.

Dowel fastening is used by manufacturers of finished wooden houses from expensive glued beams and allows you to implement the most complex projects of houses.

Conclusion

Dovetail joints in housing construction are a reliable way to fasten wooden parts. With the advent of modern carpentry tools, this technology has become available for mass use. Such fastening is widely used in interior design and in the manufacture of small architectural forms. In a miniature version, such fasteners are used in the manufacture of furniture.