Work in the garden and in the garden in October. The most important work in the garden and garden in October Garden garden October what to do
Came to an end holiday season, but, my dear summer residents, this does not mean at all that we can now relax and sit back. You will drink tea with jam and look at summer photos in winter, but for now you need to prepare for it.
In the garden in October there is still a lot of work to be done. We are slowly preparing the beds so that we can only sow them in the spring, if you have been going to plant trees or bushes all summer, but only now you have acquired them - plant them, do not pull.
But in the mode of chronic time pressure, it is possible (and it is more correct!) to dig seedlings. So they will survive the winter perfectly, and in the spring plant them in pre-prepared pits.
This is better than doing everything "bluff" and dooming the plant to a difficult winter. And in general, do not do everything in a hurry, think over landings and work in advance, because then it will be more expensive for you to redo it. In general, more than one fine day is still needed to work both in the garden and in the garden.
At the beginning of October, the warm days of golden autumn can still please us with their bright bliss. This is the time when leaves fall from the trees and cover the cooling ground with a lush warm carpet.
And at the end of the month, “manna” from heaven is already pouring into the beds. And then even the most persistent summer residents will want home comfort.
The summer was generous, there was enough warmth for us, and for the flowers, and for the harvest. And now we need to have time to prepare the sites for winter so that the frost does not spoil the bushes and trees, does not destroy the perennials.
So what do we need to do to new season pleased with an excellent harvest and how not to miss something.
October - "garden month"
Falling leaves dance in the garden. How clever is nature! So that the roots do not shiver in the ground, the trees themselves make sure that they are at least a little warmer.
From this observation, we, dear summer residents, can draw a very useful conclusion: before the onset of winter, it is good to cover perennials featherbed from fallen leaves. For this, birch leaves are best suited.
If you have not had time to complete it yet, hurry up to make them in the first half of October, because frost is just around the corner.
We are harvesting the last harvest of apples and pears of late varieties
To keep them longer, we collect the fruits dry, immediately after the dew has subsided and always with the stalk. We carefully examine the harvested crop and all the fruits that do not have mechanical and other damage, put them in boxes lined with paper, sprinkle with sawdust, or you can wrap each fruit in parchment paper or paper napkins, which will significantly improve the storage mode, because if any fruit and rot, it will not infect the rest.
I advise you to first put the boxes with fruits in the barn, and only then, with the onset of cold weather, transfer them to the basement, where they will be further stored at low positive temperatures.
If we immediately put the apples and pears removed from the tree in storage, then due to the temperature difference, the fruits may sweat and the likelihood of spoilage increases. It is best to put boxes in the basement when the temperatures in the basement and outside are equal.
Early October finishing cleaning chokeberry . Its berries make excellent jams, as well as jams and juices.
We also clean up remontant raspberry varieties.
Last of fruit crops remove quince, as it ripens quite late - only in mid-October. It is hardly edible fresh, because the pulp is very tough, but still there are lovers who really like it, especially for its unique flavor.
But quince can be used to make amazingly tasty processed products: jam, jams, marmalade, juice with pulp.
seedlings fruit trees in the nursery
Continue planting fruit trees and shrubs, but we try to complete it before mid-October, as plants planted later fall into the risk zone.
Autumn is the best time to buy planting material. At this time, mass digging of seedlings takes place in all nurseries, so in autumn there is the most diverse and large assortment of planting material and, accordingly, the best opportunities for selection.
In the spring, only the planting material remains, which they could not sell in the fall.
If you are planning to rejuvenate or expand the garden, then purchase the seedlings right now, in the fall. Winter-hardy varieties apple trees, raspberries, currants, gooseberries are best planted immediately in a permanent place. And seedlings of other less winter-hardy fruit crops would be better to dig in for spring planting.
Many amateur gardeners still prefer to buy seedlings in the spring, because they do not know how to properly store them until spring. And it's not that difficult.
So that the seedlings are well preserved until spring, dig them on your site, choosing a well-heated high place for this, which will not be flooded with melt water either in spring or in winter during thaws.
Then, in the selected area, we dig a ditch in the direction from east to west, about 50 cm deep and 100-120 cm wide (dimensions depend on the size of the seedlings).
We make the southern wall of the ditch inclined, and fold the excavated earth to the north side. We lay the planting material obliquely in one row, so that the entire root system and a third of the trunk are in the groove.
The crown should be oriented to the south. This arrangement greatly reduces the risk of getting burnt by the stems of seedlings from the bright sun in February-March. Gently spread the roots along the south sloping wall of the groove.
Just remember to write down the sequence of varieties and the quantity of each variety in the direction from east to west. Then in the spring you can easily determine the varietal affiliation of each seedling. For safety, you can also hang a thick foil label on each seedling, with the name of the variety squeezed out on it.
Now you can fill the seedlings with earth, trampling it tightly to the roots. If the weather is dry at this time, then the earth should be well watered.
General lawn cleaning
In winter, the lawn has the hardest time, in this regard, we will try to prepare it well for the cold.
If after the last haircut the grass has grown strongly, then it is necessary to cut it, but not too short, leaving a height of 5-8 cm.
Sprinkle the seeds on the formed "bald patches". The ants will not have time to pull them apart, and in the spring the seeds will have time to sprout before the first haircut.
Be sure to feed the lawn with potash fertilizers, thanks to which our lawn can safely survive even severe frosts.
There is no place for fallen leaves, grass felt and debris on the lawn, so we take a frequent rake and thoroughly “comb” our lawn.
If the autumn turned out to be too rainy, then it is necessary to pierce the turf with a pitchfork to the maximum possible depth. This is done in order to divert excess water to the lower layers of the soil.
Otherwise, as soon as the frost hits, the wet lawn will be covered with an ice crust, and by spring, ugly bald spots will form on it.
October pruning
There are plants that do not tolerate spring pruning. These are many berries, including actinidia, in which sap flow begins early in the spring.
Therefore, it is better to cut them off in early October, since by this time the plants have finished all their vital processes and are ready for winter. But there is still time for wound healing (before the onset of stable frosts).
We talked about pruning currants, gooseberries, raspberries in previous articles, so now we will learn how to do annual pruning of actinidia. Actinidia trimming procedure:
first we cut out all the thin and broken shoots, and then the weak and thickening crown;
we remove 1-2 vines that have been fruiting for 3 years, cutting them to a powerful branch of a young vine located lower to the ground;
we shorten the vegetative shoots to the desired length when they occupy the space intended for them free space on a support;
we cut generative-vegetative shoots that form on last year's growths, up to 30 cm long;
we evenly distribute on the trellis all the shoots remaining on the vine, so that they can later grow freely and scattered light passes through them in a leafy state.
Works in the garden
Gardeners are trying to complete all seasonal work by mid-October, because not everyone had enough time in September to cope with harvesting and preparing the garden for winter.
Harvesting late vegetables
At the beginning of the month, we dig out the remains of cauliflower, and then, after the Intercession, and late white cabbage. We cut down the heads of cabbage and take them out of the garden.
If frozen water with ice is found on the top of the leaves, then we remove the covering leaves, dry the heads of cabbage and put them in storage.
And if there are pockets of rot, we cover them with a mixture of sand, slaked lime and chalk. After white cabbage, we begin harvesting late Brussels sprouts. To keep better and longer Brussels sprouts, it is recommended to dig it up with roots and dig it in the basement in a large deep box in wet sand, or hang it upside down on the crossbar. The temperature in the basement must be maintained at +1...+2 degrees.
Having determined the cabbage for storage, we return to the site and dig out all the stumps with roots remaining in the ground. Don't leave a single root in the ground!
And the point here is not only the cleanliness of the site (although this is also very important), but also the fact that cabbage fly larvae hibernate on the roots of cabbage. And if we do not remove the stumps, then in the spring, as soon as the earth thaws, these larvae will warm up and start a feast on the same roots, invisible to us summer residents.
And in June, as soon as we plant fresh cabbage seedlings, they will be attacked by young, newly born cabbage flies.
We dig up radishes, parsnips and celery, and small root crops of parsley and celery can be left before winter, so that in early spring you can already have fresh greens on your table.
At the end of the month we collect Jerusalem artichoke tubers. Be sure to leave some of the tubers in the ground for the winter - new plants will grow from them in the spring. Jerusalem artichoke grows well in one place for no more than 5 years, then it is better to transplant it to a new place. It is better to store tubers in the basement, layering with earth so that they do not dry out.
After the onset of frost, you can dig horseradish, because it was by this time that the plant had accumulated the largest amount nutrients and it turns out fragrant, sweetish and not so vigorous. We choose the roots cleanly, otherwise the horseradish will grow throughout the area, dry them and put them in the refrigerator in a plastic bag.
To dig or not to dig?
Another mandatory autumn procedure is digging the earth. Although more and more often recently it is said about doubts about its expediency. Many proponents of natural farming believe that digging up the soil kills beneficial soil microorganisms and promotes the growth of weed seeds. And our attempt to give air to the roots sometimes destroys these same roots.
To understand to dig or not to dig the earth, of course, it is best to experiment yourself. But at the same time, the type of soil should still be taken into account. So, for example, heavy clay and uncultivated soils need autumn digging. While for light and loose soils, deep loosening with a flat cutter is sufficient.
Soil cultivation in the garden should be started immediately after harvesting, while carefully removing weeds and making the necessary fertilizers.
And if, nevertheless, we decide to experiment, then let's take several beds for our experiment and, without digging, process them with a flat cutter, and then cover them with a thick, even layer of mulch (hay and straw), level and compact well.
The layer should be at least 10 cm. This is not so much, since in the spring, when the snow melts, this layer will not be so large.
From autumn until spring, ideal conditions will indeed remain under this layer for the active growth of soil microflora, which will inhibit the development of pathogenic microbes.
In addition, earthworms will “fatten”, which in the course of their life activity provide nutrition to the soil and loosen it.
Proponents of natural farming believe that in the spring, seedlings and seeds should be planted without removing the layer of mulch, but only lightly raking the mulch and digging holes for the seedlings.
And we sow the seeds in this way: we rake the mulch, make furrows, lay the seeds in them, lightly sprinkle them with earth, and then return the layer of mulch to its place.
Moisture is well preserved under such a layer of mulch, so seeds and seedlings can be watered less often, and in the early spring it is not worth watering at all, since the mulch retains snow moisture well in the soil.
Also, a favorable microclimate is created under the mulch, which contributes to the rapid germination of seeds and the rooting of seedlings.
Finally, breaking down the mulch provides an excellent top dressing. And all this with minimal cost for fertilizer and irrigation. Moreover, we will save our strength, and this is very important for any summer resident.
Getting ready for winter crops
In the first half of October, we plant winter garlic on pre-prepared beds.
In areas with unstable, often changing weather, it is very difficult to guess the timing of planting, but the plants must have time to take root well, but at the same time not give green shoots, otherwise they may freeze. And later plantings can also suffer from frost, as they do not have time to form a root system.
It is best to plant garlic at a time when the average daily air temperature no longer rises above 10 degrees.
For planting, we use cloves of garlic, bulbs and single teeth. We plant the teeth to a depth equal to three diameters of the clove or bulb.
After a slight freezing of the soil on garlic plantings, it is advisable to mulch them with peat compost or cover them with a small layer of fallen leaves.
From mid-October to early November we start sowing vegetable crops before winter: carrots, parsley, dill, lettuce, spinach, radishes, turnips, turnips, celery, onion seeds for turnips.
It is best to start sowing in the pre-winter season, when the soil temperature drops to 2-3 degrees, and experienced vegetable growers sow already when the soil begins to freeze 2-5 cm deep and only slightly thaws during the day. Of course, we will prepare the beds in advance in September and cover them with covering material so that the grooves are not washed away by rains.
It is very important that the seedlings do not appear in the fall, as in this case they will freeze.
But if the seeds leave unsprouted before winter, then neither winter frosts nor spring cold snaps will have a detrimental effect on sowing. And early in the spring, more friendly and even shoots will appear, and the harvest can be obtained 2-3 weeks earlier than with spring sowing.
Another advantage of winter sowing is that we will have time in the spring to carry out other work and sow other crops at a more favorable time.
It is important to pay attention to the following rules for winter sowing:
We choose high areas with loose fertile soil, which quickly dry out in the spring, warm up, and most importantly, do not flood.
Seeds are sown dry.
The seeding rate should be higher than in spring, since most likely not all seeds may sprout.
We sprinkle the seeds not with earth, but with a mixture of good humus with sand, which must be prepared in advance. On top of the planting, you can still cover with dry leaves.
Digging up useful roots
Let's choose a fine day in early October and start collecting roots medicinal plants, which grow in the garden or near it. This best time for collecting dandelion roots, burdock, couch grass, chicory, angelica officinalis and calamus.
We wash the excavated roots in running water, we get wet with a napkin. Then we cut them into sticks and dry them in a well-ventilated area. We store dry roots in a kitchen cabinet in a tightly closed glass jar no more than three years.
It is also important to do:
We remove and burn vegetable waste
We dig out (in the second decade of October) old, no longer fruitful trees, while trying not to leave roots in the soil. Then you can cut them up and burn them. Next, you need to treat the soil in the places where they grew with a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and dig it up. In place of dug out old trees, fruit crops are not planted for 3 years, but it is better to sow legumes (peas, beans, lupins). Seedlings can also be grown nearby.
We will feed those plants that did not have time to feed at the end of September, then, if the autumn is dry, we will carry out autumn moisture-charging watering of berry and fruit crops, ornamental perennials.
We weed rhubarb, sorrel, asparagus, batun and other perennial crops, cut off old leaves, loosen and feed. To do this, it is best to mulch them with compost with a layer of 2-3 cm. mineral fertilizer and immediately plant into the soil.
If your garden is located on a slope, then in order to prevent soil washout, we dig deep intermittent furrows across the slope or make earthen rollers.
We prepare pits for planting seedlings in the spring and fill them with fertilizers.
We will prepare the soil in the beds for spring crops - we introduce potassium and phosphorus, manure, ash. It is good to cover the finished beds with a black film to protect the soil and better warm up in the spring.
The beds heavily overgrown with weeds can not be weeded, but simply covered with a dark film and the weeds themselves will die next season.
We drain the water from the vessels, barrels, drain the water from the pipes, fold the hoses and bring everything into the utility room.
We remove all plant debris, dry fallen leaves and tops and lay everything in compost heaps.
We clean ditches, gutters, drainage system from pollution. If necessary, we repair the drainage system, plumbing, paths, buildings.
On a dry sunny day, we will collect all the sticks and supports that we put under tomatoes, beans and other crops. They will still be useful to us in the coming summer season. Before putting them under a canopy, we will treat with a solution of copper sulfate and dry thoroughly.
Regularly, starting from October, we inspect stored cabbage, root crops and potatoes and remove spoiled fruits.
We hang bird feeders in the garden.
We tightly tie the stems of young trees with spruce branches, roofing material, synthetic bags, deepening the lower end of the strapping into the ground. Just do not use straw or reeds for tying, as they are an excellent refuge for overwintering many harmful insects.
Here, perhaps, and all the main work. Work in the country this season is almost completed and now you can relax a bit.
See you soon, dear friends!
October is one of autumn months, which is very important for residents of the Moscow region and the rest of Russia, to prepare the dacha for wintering. In order to work fruitfully and profitably at this time, you need to know in advance what to do and make a special list of things that you must do at your favorite summer cottage. Of course, few people want to work with the earth in cold and sometimes rainy weather - many prefer warmth and homeliness.
But on the other hand, the most hardworking and hardy will be rewarded in the spring, when the leaves begin to break through, and it will be possible to plant vegetables. By the way, some crops can and even need to be planted in October! What to do in the country in October and what to plant in October we will consider in this material useful for any summer resident.
What to plant in the country in October?
From September 20 and (if the weather is good) until October 20 - the period is most suitable for planting seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs. This is a great time to transplant raspberry and currant bushes (for the purpose of renewal).
Sowing vegetables before winter
October is a great time for planting vegetables before winter. During the winter, they will sleep well under the snow cover and rise together in the spring.
In addition to garlic, you can plant a bed of early carrots in order to enjoy it with a crunch in the summer. In a greenhouse or under glass, you can plant early radishes, radishes, head lettuce and lettuce. Glass will protect landings from sudden spring frosts and retain moisture in the soil.
You can make winter sowing of onions. To do this, choose special varieties of a short day, which form bulbs during a short sunny spring day. Currently, there are such hybrids as "Radar F1" and "Ibis F1".
What to do at the dacha florist in October?
Rosemary on the street must be covered or brought in for the winter in a warm room.
Cover perennials and biennials, if necessary, with lutrasil.
Dahlia tubers wintering in the house, check regularly; wilted, rotten and diseased plants should be discarded immediately.
It is worth planning a breakdown of rabatok and flower beds, choosing compatible and suitable flowers.
After the first frost, dahlias must be dug up, due to the fact that their stems and leaves turn black immediately.
To do this, you need to dig the bushes in a circle, trying not to damage the tubers. Gently shake it off and clean the tubers from the ground. Then we cut the stems at a height of ten centimeters from the base. We make a cut just above the lignified area.
Dahlia tubers are washed with a stream of water and dried in the sun for several hours or a couple of days indoors.
For the purpose of winter storage of tubers, a room with good ventilation, an air temperature of + 3-8 ° C and a humidity of about 60-70% is required. In apartment conditions, dahlias can be stored on a warm glazed balcony. A nest of root tubers should be put in a bucket and covered with a mixture of sawdust, sand and peat.
What to do at the dacha gardener in October?
Removing young shoots
We recommend removing the wild shoots that have formed over the summer near adult fruit trees with secateurs and an ax. If you do not do this, then in the spring it will quickly rise and absorb many useful substances that adult specimens would need to lay a new crop.
Protect tree trunks by whitewashing so that frost cracks do not damage their bark in winter.
In October, leaf fall begins and therefore it is necessary to remove fallen leaves in time and burn them so that pests of apple trees and other trees cannot overwinter in it.
What to do at the dacha gardener in October?
Leftover vegetables
In October, the first frosts begin and therefore those vegetables that you left to ripen in the garden require additional protection. We recommend covering these beds with foil or lutrasil to protect the roots in case of sudden frost.
Harvesting vegetables
Cucumbers and tomatoes are starting to bear fruit. Beets and carrots grew. It's time to harvest vegetables. But which vegetables should be removed first?
We harvest, first of all, those vegetables that are afraid of frost. These include cucumbers, tomatoes and beets.
The last to be removed from the fields and cottages are frost-resistant crops, such as horseradish, carrots, pumpkin and cabbage.
After the onset of frost, horseradish should be dug up. At this time, it contains the maximum amount of nutrients.
Digging the soil
Since the soil was depleted after the next harvest, it is worth feeding it with potash fertilizers. They must be applied immediately before digging. Loosened soil in the fall will collect much more moisture and help nourish the seeds of plants in early spring.
Apply fertilizer and loosen the soil. It is better not to break up clods of earth to improve air flow.
What to do at the dacha of the grower in October?
The grapes are harvested, and therefore it is possible to treat the bushes with preparations for pests and diseases without any problems. Bushes must be cut, bent to the ground and covered with fresh spruce branches or peat. trimmings grape bush must be taken out of the country or burned.
What should a summer resident do in October?
Works in the greenhouse
In October, after harvesting vegetables, in the greenhouse you can do digging of the soil, and processing with phytosporin or blue vitriol glass and frames of this design. After cleaning, you can light the FAS sulfuric bomb and tightly close all the cracks and doors with vents. This procedure will protect against the spread of dangerous fungal diseases, for example, late blight.
Preparing inventory for storage
After the summer season, it is likely that some of the garden tools were scattered around the site and broken. Therefore, it is worth conducting an autumn revision of your instrument. Make a list of missing tools so that you can get the necessary things during the winter or spring.
The rest of the tools should be cleaned of dirt and placed in storage.
Dig up soil for seedlings
In the literal sense, it is worth digging up the earth in buckets. To have something to grow seedlings. Many even experienced summer residents forget about such a trifle and then puzzle over where to get land for seedlings.
Compost heap care
Gather the tops and stems of the plants into a compost heap. Treat them with a urea solution. Cover with roofing material or a dense film on top.
On the eve of winter, he shared with Pravda.Ru secrets and tips about housekeeping in the country Chairman of the Moscow Union of Gardeners Andrey Tumanov.
- What is now important to do in the country, in the garden, in the garden in order to preserve vegetables and fruits and get a good harvest next year?
- The summer season never ends; it continues in late autumn, and even in winter. There will always be enough work, at the dacha itself now - for sure. Those who have not yet done so, for example, need to finish harvesting. The same potatoes, beets, cabbage.
Then you need to put the potatoes in a dark place with room temperature. In no case can not lower the potatoes straight into the basement! First, he must lie down, rest, as they say, heal some of his wounds and prepare for the winter. The same goes for carrots.
I strongly recommend that everyone thoroughly wash the vegetables before this. For example, I do it with a hose. After you wash the dirty earth from the fruits, those that are rotten or beaten are immediately visible. These are unsuitable for storage, they must be eaten immediately. And, frankly, ripe, washed, clean vegetables look more appetizing.
Do not forget about the order in the country. Always after the harvest season, you need to carefully clean up your site. Then I always, for example, dig up the garden. This effective method weed control. I cultivate the soil in the garden. Be sure to add lime or ash - this is to deoxidize the soil, because most of our soils are still acidic. And if you make some types of nitrogen fertilizers, then the soil becomes even more acidic, so every year you need to slightly deoxidize the soil.
Usually I burn a lot of ash, wood ash, ash is a mild deoxidizer, and it is advisable to bring ash for digging and in the fall. And somewhere, for digging, I bring at least a third of a bucket of sifted wood ash to square meter. This helps to maintain the necessary acidity of the soil. And plus ash is a good fertilizer, it contains potassium, a little phosphorus and trace elements.
I'll give you one more piece of advice. Look how many rotten apples are lying around - both you and your neighbors, hanging in crowns. You see, rotten apples aren't just ugly or irrational, they're a recipe for even more sickness next year. That is, when an apple rots, it spores, scatters spores. And if we somehow do not utilize them, it means that we will develop these diseases exponentially. Therefore, of course, all this must be disposed of.
I saw some gardeners have garbage containers, they throw bags of apples into them. This is wrong, because even rotten apples are organic, and organic is a big deficit in the country. I usually bury such fruits. Here I dug several holes for black currants, stuffed them with apples ... When planting crops, they can simply be buried in holes. They rot there with the help of bacteria, earthworms eat them, and seemingly rotten, completely unnecessary apples turn into a good nutrient for plants. Compost is the best fertilizer you can't buy.
Therefore, use organic matter as much as possible, and diseases buried in the ground will not come out if you put at least 20-30 centimeters of soil on top. This is how I dispose of all organic matter. It's not only apples, it's also potato tops, which are 100% sick with phytophthora. In theory, it needs to be burned, but I feel sorry for burning organic matter. I also use it. Tops of tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini - all this is sick, but it can also become organic.
You can also make winter crops. It is already quite possible to plant garlic - even, perhaps, in some regions of the country they were late, where the cold has already come. But if you have not done this, plant winter garlic immediately. You can plant small bulbs: scillas, crocuses, tulips, hyacinths, daffodils. All this is planted in the fall, so hurry up to plant so that you have a beautiful flower garden in the spring. And also vegetable beds can be made already - all winter-hardy vegetables, such as potatoes, beets, the same salads, onions, seeds, can be planted in the fall. Harvest will be at least one and a half to two weeks earlier. So the game is worth the candle.
Having dealt with all this, you can, if there is time, do part spring work to unload next spring. For example, cutting shrubs. In general, this, of course, I repeat, work for the spring, but black and red currants, gooseberries, ornamental shrubs, for example, can be cut off immediately after the leaf fall has passed. Just for the bushes, autumn pruning is painless.
There will always be enough work in the country, I speak from my own experience. So get to work!
Work in the garden and vegetable garden in October for most owners of suburban areas completes the summer season. The trees are starting to shed their leaves, there is almost nothing left in the garden, most of the crop has already been stored. “October is the month of full pantries,” says folk wisdom, but this does not mean at all that the work in the garden and in the garden has already been completed. Rest early, country cottage area must be carefully prepared for the winter. Well, when she comes, then it will be possible to relax, drink hot tea with homemade jam, and look at summer photos. So, what kind of work are responsible summer residents doing this month?
Primary work in the garden and vegetable garden in October
In the October days, it is already in full swing to prepare the entire infrastructure for winter: remove and clean the time switch from drip irrigation, turn over the barrels, remove the pump, “park” the water supply - blow it out and leave the taps open.
Harvesting the last harvest in the garden
In the first half of October, the remains of cabbage should be collected from the garden: cauliflower, white cabbage, late Brussels sprouts. If the heads of cabbage have already frozen slightly, they need to be dried a little, having previously picked off the upper damaged leaves, and only then put them in storage.
According to the observations of many gardeners, cabbage is best stored in a suspended state (on the crossbar with the roots up) in the basement with a constant temperature of 1-2 degrees. 
If you store cut cabbage, then when the heads of cabbage are determined for wintering, it's time to take care of the stumps left after them. It is desirable to dig absolutely everything, leaving not a single root in the ground. This is done not for the sake of cleanliness and order on the site, but for another, more important reason. The fact is that the remaining roots of cabbage are a haven for the larvae of the cabbage fly, so to speak, their winter quarters. If the stalks are not removed, the larvae will safely live until spring, warm up with the arrival of heat and turn into flies that will literally devour cabbage seedlings in June.
Planting must be completed in the first half of October, as plants planted closer to stable frosts automatically fall into the risk zone. Planted seedlings planted in time will have time to grow absorbent roots before frost and, with the arrival of spring heat, they will instantly start growing (about a couple of weeks earlier than those that will be planted in spring). Weather surprises, which nature often throws at the beginning of the summer season, they will meet already quite developed and strengthened.
Landing pits for "settlers" should preferably be prepared no later than a week before disembarkation. After planting, it is necessary to ensure that the soil under young trees and bushes does not dry out before the onset of frost. Gardeners pay special attention to warming seedlings. If a harsh winter is predicted, the plants can be insulated as follows: drive four pegs at a distance of up to 40 cm around the trunk, cover the resulting frame with burlap, fill the space between the tree and the burlap walls with dry leaves or sawdust. If there is no burlap at hand, you can build a tube from corrugated paper and fill with insulation. Such protection will help plants survive any winter. 
If winter warming rodents can damage, look in the area (or ask your neighbors) for foliage and shoots of elderberry, and add it to the warming layer - mice “do not like” this smell.
Autumn pruning of fruit and berry crops
It is better not to allow horticultural crops to winter with a thickened or injured crown, it is dangerous for them. That is why thinning and sanitary pruning is carried out in the fall. It begins during leaf fall or immediately after the trees and bushes shed their leaves, and the removal of unnecessary branches must be completed before frost. In order not to weaken the plants, but rather to strengthen their immunity, pruning must be carried out in a “gentle mode”, without being too zealous.
Sanitary pruning involves the removal of broken, dried, pest-affected and no longer fruiting branches (the so-called unloading). After trees and bushes shed their leaves, such damaged areas become clearly visible. In order to thin out the crown, all overlapping branches are cut out, resting on the trunk, growing almost vertically from the trunk, or simply preventing light from entering. The main thing is to carry out this procedure in a timely manner so that the wounds have time to heal before winter.
Another October garden work is pruning gooseberries and currants. Both cultures wake up and bloom too early, so it's best not to delay their thinning until spring. In addition, all the kidneys are checked on currants - deformed and swollen kidneys with signs of a kidney mite must be carefully pinched off and burned. 
In addition to pruning in the fall, we also regularly spray against diseases and pests - in October with live microbial preparations, and only in November we connect iodine treatments.
Tidying up and preparing plants for wintering
October garden work is not limited to pruning old trees and planting new ones. In addition, it is better to clean the garden turf from leaf litter - distribute the foliage into flower beds and beds. Also, plant residues accumulated during the season are removed into the compost heap, and the preparation of fruit trees and berries for winter begins. Dead bark is removed from the trunks, and then whitewashing is carried out with a mixture of lime and clay with the addition of water (3 kg of the mixture / 10 l of water) and ash (1 cup). If there is mullein, then add it - it improves adhesion.
Later, when the ground begins to freeze slightly, tree trunks can be mulched with compost mixed with sawdust, and even better with peat.
Autumn work in the flower garden in October
In flower beds in October days, non-hardy crops (heat-loving hydrangeas, climbing roses, rhododendrons) and plant vending bulbs - tulips, daffodils, chionodoxes, crocuses, etc. 
All leaf litter of fruit trees, not distributed over the beds, as already mentioned, is better to scatter in flower beds - this is both food for the soil and warming for the winter. Around the end of June next year, there will be no trace of the leaves, all will be eaten by soil microorganisms and earthworms. This nutrition is enough not only for flowers, but also fruit trees- their nutritious roots will reach here if the flower beds are organized near orchard.
October is a very busy month for gardeners. If in summer you can sit out the midday heat somewhere in the shade, wait for the evening coolness and continue working, then in the middle of autumn such pauses are not allowed. People say: "October day is flying fast - you can't tie it to the wattle fence." And indeed, as soon as he prepared the instrument and tuned in to work, it was already getting dark. But winter is very close, and you need to have time to carry out all the planned work in the garden and garden in October without putting them off until spring.
The summer season is coming to an end, the garden is empty, almost the entire crop has already been harvested. It would seem that it is already possible to relax and unwind, but in fact there is still a lot of work in the garden and in the garden. In October, all these works are mainly related to the preparation garden plot for winter.
This will be discussed in this article. First, let's talk about seasonal work in the garden.
October. Seasonal work of gardeners
Your garden: works of the month
October is the time of harvesting apples and pears of late varieties. Do this in the first decade and store them. In order for the fruits to be stored longer, they should be cooled as soon as possible after removal and stored at a temperature of 0 - plus 5 degrees.
Renet Simirenko - at plus 2-3 degrees. It can be stored for several months at temperatures from minus 1 to minus 0.5.
If you have removed the pears too early, store at 2-4 degrees, otherwise they will not ripen.
Before storing the fruits of each variety, it is necessary to sort out, select those damaged by diseases and pests or with mechanical injuries. The larger the fruit, the earlier it ripens, breathes more strongly, releases more substances that affect the surrounding fruits, accelerating their ripening.
Therefore, it is better to sort the fruits of one variety before storage by size: large, medium, small. Place them in different containers and pick them up from the cellar at different times.
Apples can be placed in cardboard boxes, lattice boxes, thin translucent polyethylene bags (1-1.5 kg each), just on racks.
October is the perfect time to clean up your garden.
Around young fruit trees, it is necessary to dig up the soil with a pitchfork by 15-20 cm. Later, on frozen soil, mulch the near-stem circles with sawdust or compost, best of all with peat.
Dig holes and fertilize them for spring planting of seedlings.
In order for the trees to survive the winter better, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to the near-trunk circle (if they have not been applied earlier) and buried in the ground with a hoe.
In autumn, tree trunks in the garden should be whitewashed.
Clean the trunks of dead bark and then whiten. Young trees (up to 5 years old) are best whitewashed with a solution of chalk. Adults - lime with clay (2.5 kg per 10 liters of water) or garden sunscreen paint.
Before winter, the garden must be cleared of weeds, plant residues, diseased and dried shoots of trees and shrubs.
We continue landing
In October, it's time to plant apples, pears and other fruit trees. It is necessary to finish planting no later than 15 days before stable frosts.
It is possible to trim the above-ground part in autumn only at the berries. Cut the trees in the spring, but do not forget to do this so that the seedlings take root well. We cut to restore the balance between the roots injured during digging and the aerial part.
When the leaves begin to turn yellow on the trees, spray the crowns with a solution of urea (500 g per 10 liters of water) to kill scab spores and other fungal diseases.
Leaf fall does not mean that all tissues and organs of the plant have entered a dormant phase. At positive temperatures, flower buds continue to develop, roots grow.
Take care of improving the soil
In autumn, you need to take care of the earth. Well, if you managed to make manure. Organics improves the soil, replenishes it with humus, makes the soil looser, air and water permeable.
If there is no manure and compost, chop fresh bean stalks, beans, carrot tops, nettles with a shovel and dig up the soil on a shovel bayonet. It is also a useful organic fertilizer.
Stems and flowers of marigolds, calendula do not throw into the fire. Crushed and embedded in the soil, they cleanse it of pests and fungal diseases. Tansy, yarrow, chamomile are also useful for autumn soil fertilization.
Carry out shrub trimming
In October, currant and gooseberry bushes are pruned. Free red and black currants, gooseberries from old and thickening branches. It is necessary that the branches be free, then the harvest will please you.
The gooseberry bush needs pruning.
Do not leave stumps when cutting branches. They overwinter pests and pathogens. Unthickened bushes of red currant bear fruit for 15-20 years, black - 5-6 years, gooseberries - 5-8 years. After that, it is advisable to completely renew the plantings.
Strawberry gives good harvests berries for two years. In the third year, the yield is greatly reduced. After the third full harvest, the plantation should be eliminated.
By this time, it accumulates diseases and overgrows with malicious weeds:
- bindweed
- wheatgrass
- dandelion
It is easier to plant a new strawberry than to weed out these weeds.
Dig the soil under the bushes finely, without breaking lumps, so that autumn moisture, melt water is better absorbed and snow lingers. And some of the pests will die from frost.
Mulch new plantings of shrubs, trees, strawberries with humus, compost or peat. This will replace your digging. A light loosening will suffice. If you mulch with straw, hay or sawdust, they must first be treated with urea or ammonium nitrate at 20-25 g per square meter. m.
First, pour the mulch 4-5 cm from the trunk, and when frosts begin, cover the trunk circle completely.
In October, you can sow the seeds:
- apple trees
- stone fruits
- japanese quince
- viburnum and others
During the winter, they will undergo a natural stratification and sprout in the spring.
Seasonal work of gardeners in October
Your garden: works of the month.
There is still plenty to do.
- First, not all of the harvest has been harvested.
- Secondly, in the second half of October it is already time to plant winter garlic and, therefore, it is not too late yet, it is necessary to prepare a garden bed.
Planting winter garlic.
In advance, you need to think about areas for planting onion sets, about beds for winter crops. Do not forget to prepare garden soil, humus, compost for future seedlings and spring transplanting of indoor plants.
Of course, you can get by with purchased soil mixtures, but it’s still better when tomatoes, peppers, eggplants develop in a similar soil mixture during the seedling period and later in the garden.
It is also necessary to store the soil for winter crops. If you put it in the barn, it will not freeze by the time you need to fill in the sowing furrows the seeds of carrots, parsley, etc.
What will we sow in October
So, siderates are the first in a series of October works. It no longer makes sense to sow spring green manure, but winter crops (rye, winter wheat) are the time. Before the onset of frost, they will have time to ascend, grow up and, therefore, have a good winter.
It is important not to overdo it with watering. If the soil in the garden is dry, before sowing, water it along the prepared grooves (it can be done in several steps). This will be enough for the seeds of cereals to sprout and grow actively.
If the beds are no longer watered, the roots of green manure in search of moisture will actively develop deeper, loosening the soil at a depth inaccessible to a garden shovel. In addition, deep roots pull up nutrients from the lower layers of the soil, which is also very important for increasing its fertility.
Garden planted with green manure.
Summer residents who already have winter green manure in their garden ask when it is better to dig them up - in spring or already in autumn?
- Firstly, it depends on what kind of green mass the green manure has grown. If there is a lot of green
you can dig in the fall. - Secondly, it is better to plant green manure in the soil in the fall, if in the spring we are going to occupy the site with early vegetables, potatoes.
- In the beds reserved for heat-loving nightshade crops, green manure can be dug up in the spring.
In autumn, under digging, you can make incompletely rotted manure, compost: before spring, they will have time to turn into good organic matter in the soil.
It is better to leave ready-made humus, compost for mulching garlic and onion beds (after planting), winter crops, which we will carry out no earlier than November. We choose a place for winter crops in the sun, where melt and spring waters will not stagnate.
Fertilizer for garden beds.
Under digging, we bring in a bucket of good compost or humus and according to Art. a spoonful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. On a well-leveled bed, after 15 cm from each other, we make sowing grooves. (The soil for filling the seeds is prepared and stored under the roof.)
We will sow after the temperature steadily drops to a slight minus. If sown in late October - early November, the seeds of cold-resistant crops (carrots, parsley, dill) can sprout and die after the onset of frost.
In the second decade of October, we plant winter garlic
Small onion sets with a diameter of no more than 1 cm are planted a week later than garlic. Both garlic and onions should only take root before frost.
If, according to forecasts, frosts should occur shortly after planting, we will fill the beds with humus or compost: under a layer of mulch, the soil will not immediately cool down and the bulbs and cloves will have time to take root.
If October is warm, it is better to mulch the garlic and onion beds after a cold snap so that the soil does not warm up during periods of warming and the garlic and onions remain at rest until spring.
There is no waste in the garden, there is organic matter
Let's take the time to clean up the compost heap. We will remove its upper layer and fold it “to reach a free-flowing condition”. We will also add post-harvest plant residues there.
It is pleasant and convenient to work with such a "compost pit".
At the bottom of the heap, compost, as a rule, is ready by autumn (unless, of course, we forgot to layer the plant residues with earth, water them) and they can insulate the root zone of garden, perennial ornamental and garden plants for the winter.
In the spring, such a shelter does not need to be removed. Compost, having performed the role of a heater in winter, begins to work as a soil improver. When sorting compost, do not forget to choose from it Khrushchev. You can simply put them in some kind of bowl: the birds will have something to eat.
We take the shovel
To dig or not to dig the beds in the fall and when is it better to do it?
If the soil on the site, constantly replenished with organic matter, has become structural and does not compact much during the season, it can simply be shallowly processed with a flat cutter.
Heavy areas compacted as a result of frequent watering without digging poorly absorb rain and spring moisture, snow is blown away from them without lingering. Both are bad for soil health. We dig up the beds that have compacted during the season, having previously introduced compost, humus, superphosphate and potassium sulfate.
If wireworms, scoops, and beetles were annoyed at the site, it is recommended to dig up the soil as late as possible in order to turn the pests to the surface and freeze them.
The hardest work in the garden in October.
It is better not to disturb light soils (sandy, sandy loam) in autumn: do not dig, do not fertilize. Being dug up, such soil is strongly exposed to erosion: the already poor fertile layer is blown away by the wind, washed away by rains, melt waters.
Fertilizers applied in autumn to light soils are washed out into the lower horizons, inaccessible to plant roots. On such soils, beds of garlic, onions, perennial vegetables(sorrel, asparagus, onions for greens, rhubarb) must be mulched in winter, otherwise, after a snowless winter, seedlings may not wait.
And the thicker the insulating layer, the greater the chances of a successful overwintering of plants.
In stationary greenhouses, in which the same vegetables are permanently grown, it makes sense to replace the topsoil. We put the soil from the greenhouse in a stack, layering with fallen leaves, beveled lawn grass, manure (if any).
In the next season, it is important not to let the stack dry out. After two years, the rested soil can be returned to the greenhouse by sending the next top layer removed in the greenhouse for recovery.
We continue harvesting.
In October, every day can be the last day of being on the beds of root crops, cabbage. Vegetables should not be allowed to freeze. Carrots, being in the ground, may not suffer from mild frosts, and beets with their root crops “for show” will be damaged and will not be stored.
You can not rush to dig the daikon: let it gain weight and juiciness. It can be covered with non-woven fabric on arcs.
We are not in a hurry to clean the parsnips: they can even spend the winter in the garden. It is believed that parsnips become tastier in cold weather.
Later, you can dig up the root parsley, leaving a few plants in the garden for spring greenery. We do not cut the leaves from the parsley that remains to winter in the garden, otherwise the plants may not overwinter. A few parsley roots can be immediately transplanted into a pot to put on the kitchen window sill.
In October, it's time to harvest the cabbage.
Light freezing makes white cabbage sweeter. But if we are going to provide ourselves for the winter not only with sauerkraut, but also with fresh cabbage, it is better to remove it before the onset of frosty weather.
If, nevertheless, the cabbage freezes, let it thaw on the vine and only then cut it off.
Cabbage intended for storage is either pulled out by the roots, or a long stalk is left. Undressing a head of cabbage, do not touch 3-4 covering leaves.
Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi will safely survive the first mild frosts without compromising the quality of the crop. On broccoli, we regularly cut off the small heads that form on the side shoots. We will remove the plants themselves from the garden after the frost.
After harvesting the heads of white cabbage, heads of Brussels sprouts, heads of broccoli and color, the stems and stumps remaining on the beds are pulled out by the roots, chopped and put into compost. Until spring, they should not be left in the ground.
If Brussels or cauliflower do not have time to form a full-fledged crop, the plants are dug up with roots and “transplanted” into wet sand or soil in a greenhouse or basement.
If there is no basement, cabbage can be grown in a greenhouse, covering it with a film, straw mats or old blankets. Cabbage heads will grow due to the nutrients accumulated in the stump and leaves.
Onions - we are not in a hurry to dig out a leek, but we leave a place in the basement where you can dig in plants for it. In the meantime, once again we pile up the leek stalks so that they bleach.
In addition, you need to add earth to the stalks of petiole celery. Many summer residents, in order to protect the stems from contamination, bleach celery by wrapping the petioles with thick, light-proof paper.
Petiole celery.
In bleached petioles, the amount essential oils, and therefore the bitterness decreases, they become more tasty. It will not work for a long time to keep juicy petioles after harvesting, so we leave celery in the garden for as long as possible.
Before the onset of cold weather, it can be covered with non-woven material or a film on arcs. Of course, we cannot save it all winter, but we can prolong the consumption of useful stems.
Although even after cutting, it is possible to keep the celery stalks fresh for several weeks. We cut off the upper part from the petioles (where the leaves are), rinse them well, dry them so that there are no drops of water left on the stems, wrap them in a paper towel, pack them in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator.
We take the last opportunity to prepare for the future as much parsley, dill as possible: dry, freeze or salt. Dried greens can be ground with a blender and added to soups, main dishes, salads.
Greens, giving taste and aroma, will not "get confused" in the teeth. We wash the spinach leaves, dry them, pack them and put them in the refrigerator so that at least in October-November we can cook green soup puree.
We will try to dig up potatoes planted in the second half of summer on a fine day in order to immediately ventilate and scatter them in a shed to dry.
In October, do not delay with the final harvest of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants. Harvested in nice warm weather, they last longer. Eggplant, put in a plastic bag, it is better to store in the refrigerator. And so that the fruits do not sweat, they are first cooled and only after that they are placed in a bag.
After washing, drying and packing in a plastic bag, you can store radishes harvested in October for a long time.
October work of flower growers
About what kind of work await flower growers in October
