Yellow climbing rose care. Climbing roses: planting, care, cultivation and reproduction. garter of climbing roses

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Landing and care open field behind this marvelous flower will be considered in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, you can turn even the most modest plot into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing rose - description of the type and planting features

Shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the flower arches of amazing beauty more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, well-camouflaged old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with its presence by a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, however, in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of rose is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Bud sizes can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once flowering species and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard at a distance, some are fragrant slightly audibly, subtly and gently. This culture will thrive on sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for her, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by unsuitable for climbing rose soil, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All procedures for adapting the land should be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not grown before. If it doesn’t work out otherwise, then before planting, you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a slight hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” a part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cooling, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the advent of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer, the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May are the most optimal timing for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose in the ground in spring

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from autumn ones. All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in spring will be a little behind in development, will require you to pay more attention to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm. If you plant several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also deepened by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost during the cold season. The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bent up!

Planting a climbing rose in spring involves introducing nutrient soil into the hole. Approximately 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will please your rose. After planting, the soil is slightly trampled down and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to do this or not to do it, if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such an escape must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade signal improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in low light. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “junction” site, which promotes fusion. If the vaccination site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen clod, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, we remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with powdered charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system carefully examined. You can first add the Kornevin stimulator to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots if possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored cloth - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses - care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-solar day, so that subsequently the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried in the soil by about 10 cm.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the appearance of the buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so follow the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species quite picky about top dressing. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Agricola-Rosa (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organics - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then pour the plant under the root with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can start slowly making phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the upcoming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Climbing rose care in the first year

How does it differ from the standard requirements? From competent care in the first year of a plant’s life, it depends further development and blooming splendor. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If they stand sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not interfere. After 10-12 days after the removal of the hilling soil, you can proceed to the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further proper formation of the shrub.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the advent of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in autumn for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped with protective material right on it. The base of the bush is spudded in the manner described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long flowering, has a positive effect on health and vitality climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning is done at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (we choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not present, then about 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of the replacement root branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (also measured from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to cut a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up a pruner when buds begin to swell on the branches from below (the last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its forces into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplantation. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, as the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances so require, transplanting a rose in a climbing spring to another place is also possible. As soon as the earth thaws after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug (moving in a circular fashion), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, even if the pit is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When transplanting, the same rules are followed as with standard planting - the roots straighten out and go down, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the groups of climbers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing climber roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half the entire length!

Ramblers are precisely climbing roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, cuttings, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if the seed is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, independently harvested seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or garden do not carry varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of growing the plant. After we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, cover with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also impregnated with peroxide.

The resulting "sandwich" is placed in a plastic bag and hidden in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate earth mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the easiest way to breed, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the location of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (smooth) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A cutting is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered from above glass jar and put in a well-lit area.

Now you will need to periodically water the stalk (without removing the banks) and make sure that it does not fall under direct Sun rays.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small groove bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​wild rose

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a wild rose bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. Best time for this operation - the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the wild rose should be generously watered.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. In this kind of "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we firmly press the eye to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is spudded, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly loosened, and with the advent of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Empirically, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Rose sawfly caterpillar on a rose
Rose affected by spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you deal with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all affected fragments - it should help.

The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence uninvited guest. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood decoction give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the the best means protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes a double treatment of roses with this preparation is enough for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to reviews experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, extending not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, koniotirium (bark burn).

powdery mildew
bacterial cancer

There are no cures for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but serious attitude prevention minimizes the risk of disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulphate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same blue vitriol are the most frequently recommended preventive measures.

Conyothyrium infestation can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the moment the kidneys awaken, the plant can be treated with 3% iron sulphate, the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case, while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such sprays are often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is to make your favorite flowers delight your eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering. It is simply unrealistic to mention all the winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Rebloom - distinguishing feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid the arch or wall of the building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

Boasts rich cupped flowers pink shade, undemanding to care, re-flowering, aroma with light notes of nutmeg. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating flowering, about five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot hue, gradually turning into a cream color. Very fond of sunlit places, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, the aroma is weak.

Photo of a climbing rose variety "Polka":

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious terry rose with large (12 cm in diameter) deep red flowers. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of red. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petal. It has increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very gentle, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows up to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, black spot and ashtray should be avoided.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly reminiscent of cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering the branches are simply covered with buds, so that foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the peculiarity of slowly opening for about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-blooming variety that blooms slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. Blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the Parade variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, refined aroma. The variety is hardy, re-blooming, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. A multi-petalled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety "Casino", photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices”. Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with a reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of propagation and replanting, a rough idea of ​​​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can put my advice into practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

Climbing roses are frequent guests in beautifully decorated garden plots, in park areas. Delicate aroma, inspiring beauty, velvety texture - all these words are about the queen of flowers. It doesn’t matter what kind and type of flower is in front of you. After all, you will still be inspired by its intoxicating beauty and fragrance.

The most extraordinary sight you can see when the bud opens with all its lush color. Therefore, if you choose it for planting for your site, pay attention to these flowers. They make a great addition to any landscape design. With their help, you can implement horizontal gardening.

Varieties of climbing roses and their description with a photo can be found in the short catalog on this page

Each variety and species requires special care, both in summer and in winter period. In addition, each of them has its own characteristics. This is exactly what we will talk about in our article.

Description of climbing roses and their photos

This flower will be an excellent screen to hide garden buildings that are completely unsuitable for landscape design. You can make a description of climbing roses if you divide them into six groups:

1. multiflora;
2. vishuriana;
3. lambert;
4. cordes;
5. banks;
6. climbing.

These groups are internationally recognized. Also, climbing roses can be divided into groups according to the nature of growth:

1. • curly;
   • climbing;
   • semi-climbing.

Note that real roses are curly. The second and third groups represent plants created as a result of crossing or mutation. However, each species is beautiful in its own way. All of them differ in length, color of shoots, as well as the duration of flowering. Some varieties from the presented three groups are winter-hardy. In some cases, the plant can survive the winter under light cover during the coldest period. Therefore, winter-hardy climbing roses for the Moscow region are the best solution.

These plants are also divided into subgroups, and the process is based on how the shoots bloom. So, for example, klimengi bloom on the shoots of the current year, but ramblers on the shoots of past years. The basic rules of care and cultivation also depend on these features.

Look at the photo of climbing roses, the description of which you have already read above:

How to grow and where to plant a queen garden

Before you buy a garden queen, you should prepare the right place where to plant it on the site. The sprout should be planted in well-lit and ventilated places. For this, high platforms on the south side are suitable.

How to properly grow such a culture, you can read in a special material on our portal.

It is worth noting that for a climbing queen there is no need to leave a large amount of room for further growth. 50 cm is enough for her. In the event that you land correctly, next year you can see the color.

A weaving flower, which is intended to decorate fences or other objects, should be planted half a meter from the object. The landing process consists of several stages:

• well preparation;
• applying a sufficient amount of fertilizer (manure);
• preliminary moisturizing watering;
• planting a seedling with a deepening to the root collar;
• trimming the above-ground part to a level of 20 cm.

You can see a photo of a climbing rose and its flowering right now. Thus, you will simply be inspired to further work.

You should not be afraid of growing processes, because next year the plant will not require abundant attention. For its normal development, it should be cut in time, watered and periodically fed. As for watering, it should be carried out 1 time in 7 days. To make fertilizer recommendations, here you need to know the varieties of climbing roses in your area.

Pruning plants - forming a crown is not difficult!

To form a crown, to increase the level of flowering throughout the bush is possible only if the plant is pruned correctly. How to do it? Depends on how many times the plant blooms. What variety exactly will help you determine the catalog of climbing roses from the photo and description below. It is not difficult, even a novice gardener can do it. The main thing to remember is that if you follow the entire procedure correctly, then your plant can grow up to 3.5 m.

A plant that blooms once should be pruned, leaving 3-5 annual and biennial shoots as the end result. Everything else should be carefully cut. Such a need lies in the fact that the old shoot is replaced by new ones and the new ones are “burdened” with flowering for the next year. For their normal growth, the bush should be cleaned.

In the event that your queen blooms twice a season, then you should remove the shoots in the fourth year. In the event that there are a large number of new shoots near the bush, then it is worth reducing their number to 2-3 annuals, and leaving the main ones about 7 pieces.

When pruning, do not forget about vegetative shoots. They play an important role in flowering. Therefore, it is worth paying due attention to them.

Catalog of climbing roses with names, descriptions and photos

Further, your attention is invited to a catalog of climbing roses, in which varieties are presented with accompanying photos and descriptions. The names allow you to identify the species growing on the site and select the conditions of care and cultivation suitable for it.

Climbing climbing roses: main characteristics

A plant that blooms several times a season is classified as a Climbing group. It is the climbing climbing roses that are characterized by large flowers, such a bush grows up to 3 m long. The variety of shades, shapes and structure of the bud is complemented by a unique fragrant aroma. Such flowers are actively used in the design of windows, buildings, fences and other items.

Speaking about the main characteristics, it can be noted that this variety includes such types of weaving plants as Rosarium Uetersen, Sympathie, Flammentanz, Don Juan and a number of different varieties. Below you can get acquainted in more detail with the photo and names of climbing roses of this group.

Fairy-tale climbing "Elf"

If you like densely doubled royal flowers, then you should pay attention to such a miracle as the Elf climbing rose with a diameter of 12 cm. Each fabulous bud of a seedling is goblet inflorescences, inside which you can observe a lemon shade, and white at the edges. Such a bush grows no more than 3 m. The rose is very resistant to frost, but it also loves places in the sun with fertile soil. Therefore, it is necessary to fertilize the soil in a timely manner with special subcorks.

Climbing rose "Sympathy"

Velvety and terry buds, purple or red hue up to 10 cm in diameter - all this is a climbing rose "Sympathy" with a light and not pronounced aroma. The plant will perfectly live where severe frosts are likely. In the event that the branches freeze, the plant will still delight its owners with its color in the coming season.

The diameter of the bush can reach up to 2 m, but the height is almost 4.5 m. Such opportunities allow you to make decorative decorations on trellises, walls of houses, as well as on arcs. The main advantage of the plant is the ability to grow and develop quickly. As a result, very soon the given space will be landscaped and decorated with delightful flowers.

Climbing rose "Indigoletta"

For lovers of extraordinary solutions and those who want to highlight their garden with something unusual, there is a solution. The fabulous climbing rose "Indigoletta" surprises with its color and the ability to change it. So, for example, planting a seedling of this variety in a place in the sun, you will get velvety lilac buds. They will acquire a blue tint if the bush is located in partial shade.

The plant is great for vertical gardening. This is due to the fact that the bush reaches 3 m in height. In addition, it is unpretentious, always delights with the wonderful aroma of a tea rose, and is resistant to frost and disease. Therefore, it can be grown in almost any part of Russia.

Climbing rose "Golden"

Bright yellow flowers with a strong aroma are characteristic of the climbing rose "Golden" with a diameter of 10 cm. Each bud of the plant is a bright sun that will become the center of attention for any garden. Such a plant will feel great in the sun, but not in the shade. In winter, it withstands up to -30 ° C, and in summer it is resistant to various diseases.

Such a plant is suitable for composition decorative walls, arches and columns, as it reaches a height of up to 3 m. In addition, the Golden variety is distinguished by its density, which will effectively shade a specific space.

Climbing rose "Flamentanz"

"Dance of fire" or climbing rose "Flamentants" belongs to the Rambler group. Small but lush buds of a fiery red hue will create a harmonious ensemble in vertical gardening garden. The diameter of the flower reaches 8 cm, but at the same time up to 16 flowers are collected in a brush, making the spectacle unforgettably beautiful.

The plant will delight with its color for up to 2 months. Flamentanz will survive hard frosts, but not drought, excessive rain, or disease. Therefore, it requires special attention. In order to observe intensive growth and development, seedlings should be planted in the sun. At good conditions reaches 5 m.

Climbing rose "Casino"

This plant has been popular for over half a century. The delightful climbing rose "Casino" is a plant that blooms twice a year. The first flowering is a bright yellow buds and up to 11 cm in diameter. In this case, all flowers grow on one pillar. They have a pointed shape. Repeated flowering is characterized by a greater number of buds. Also, the buds are not as full as they were when they first bloomed.

The advantage of this variety is resistance to various diseases. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said about maintaining low temperatures. The bush reaches up to 3 m in height, and the flowers have a delicate tropical aroma. The variety is used in more for cutting and decorating arches.

Climbing rose "Rosarium"

A winter-hardy type and picky about weather conditions is the climbing rose "Rosarium" of soft pink or coral color. The height of the plant reaches up to 3.5 m, and up to 1 m wide. The stems of this bush are voluminous and strong, crowned with straight spikes. The leaves of the plant are dark green.

The flower itself has a cup-shaped shape and a diameter of up to 12 cm. The gusto-double type of bud makes the flower light and delicate, and the sour delicate smell complements the harmonious composition.

The planted climbing rose "Rosarium Yutersen" near your house will bloom until autumn. Note that the flowering process takes place 2 times per season, while the first time there will be much more color. With these flowers you can decorate a house or a fence, create an arch or make any other vertical decoration.

Climbing rose "Hendel"

The soft pink shade of the Hendel climbing rose will charm any gardener not only with its color, but also with the shape of the bud.

Inside each petal has a cream or White color. The pink edging emphasizes and dilutes all the charm of the color. The goblet shape with terry petals makes the bud elegant and sophisticated. The size of the flower can be up to 9 cm, while forming brushes of 10 flowers.

Rare thorns, as well as long and strong stems from 1.5 m to 3 m, add a special touch and piquancy to the plant. Such a plant is resistant to cold. Therefore, you can safely land even in the suburbs.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

A bush that blooms from early July to mid-October will always attract the attention of anyone. Especially if we are talking about the queen of flowers. Charmingly beautiful climbing rose "Iceberg" will be an excellent decoration for decorative design garden. You can decorate both the walls of the house and create unusual flower arches. The length of the plant reaches 3 m, so it is permissible to perform various compositions.

Lush flowering, which has a goblet shape, will delight you with its delicate aroma. For normal growth and development, a flower should be planted where there is a lot of sun. The soil should be moderately moist and rich in humus.

Water this variety should be plentiful and only under the root. At the same time, remember that the water temperature should be several degrees higher than the air temperature. When watering, it is important not to irrigate the crowns.

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

The climbing rose "Don Juan" is very popular among gardeners. Such success is ensured by its main advantages - good winter hardiness and disease tolerance. Moreover, a large and terry red bud with a strong aroma always attracts attention. The size of the flower in diameter reaches 12 cm. It is common for a variety to have a height of up to 3.5 m. Therefore, it is very often used for landscaping house walls, arches and other objects.

The normal development of the plant will provide soil without stagnant moisture, regular feeding and pruning. Also, the Don Juan variety should be tied.

"Santana" - climbing velvety rose

This type of flower has a shiny surface of the petals and good tolerance to low temperatures. In addition, this species is not afraid of rain. The buds of the Santana variety of climbing roses are slightly velvety, bright red in color, do not fade for a long time. 3-7 buds bloom on one brush throughout the shoot. The diameter of one bud can be up to 10 cm.

This variety loves the sun, but can grow in partial shade. Reaches 3.5 m in height. The disadvantages include - unexpressed aroma. However, you will see how Santana blooms until the first frost.

Rose bushes are able to charm anyone with their beauty, they look so magical. And it's not just garden bushes. Weaving roses deserve special attention. They are able to decorate any place, turn an old gazebo into a small corner of paradise. And the flower garden will sparkle with bright colors if you know how to plant climbing roses around the perimeter of the green corner in the garden. The main thing is to figure out how to care for a climbing rose and find out what microclimate and description of cultivation she prefers.

planting

Let's say you decide to diversify your backyard with the recognized queen of garden flowers. In this case, planting a climbing rose is the first thing you need to familiarize yourself with. Knowing how a weaving plant, it will be easier for you to understand the features of constant care for him. Remember: it is important to prepare the soil for planting plants. Immediately before deepening the seedling into the ground, add the necessary nutritional formulations, for example, phosphate fertilizers, humus, humus, as well as phosphorobacterin.

When planting a flower, keep in mind that the root system requires a lot of space, so the holes must be voluminous. Place the seedling in the recess, be sure to fill the voids between the root branches. Cover the plant with earth, then pour a bucket under the young bush warm water. The final stage - sprinkle a little earth on top and carefully tamp the space around the climbing rose. When the planting of the purchased climbing rose in the spring in the ground is completed, it's time to provide competent care for the young shrub.

Caring for climbing roses

Care for yellow or red varieties in the garden, especially when it comes to weaving varieties, will be carried out correctly if the crown is regularly formed. In the spring, flower growers, as a rule, remove frozen shoots from the bush. Further, the features of this procedure will depend on the variety itself.

If we are talking about a shrub that can bloom only once a season, at the end of its flowering, the basal shoots will need to be cut out completely. Let's say you breed weaving varieties that bloom several times a year. In this case, the main shoots will need to be completely removed no earlier than 4 years after planting the seedling.

Plant propagation

Climbing rose is not only planting and care. In order to achieve abundant and long flowering and at the same time to get a few additional bushes of weaving roses over time, it is necessary to master the procedure for plant propagation. Breed on your own personal plot a climbing yellow or other color rose can be used with seeds, cuttings, this method is feasible, but you will have to buy seed in the store. The thing is that it does not make sense to plant grains collected from a bush growing on your personal plot, since varietal characteristics will not be traced in them.

Features of preparation for winter

Knowing how to plant a climbing rose and take care of it in the summer is not enough. It is especially important to be able to prepare the plant for the cold, to understand. The technology of the process itself will be completely different from how a garden rose is usually prepared for wintering. If the bush is enough to simply dig in the ground, then here it is necessary to take care of the entire plant. A planted flower should not be watered with the onset of autumn. It is advisable to stop feeding the rose.

In the middle - the end of autumn, the bush will need to be bent to the ground. Do this gradually, tying the shrub with some kind of rope (remember that you need to bend the branches in one “bundle”, and not one by one).

Do not be surprised if the procedure takes a couple of days: the shrub will gradually get used to the angle of inclination. You can open the plant after hibernation in the spring.

Climbing rose in the interior of the garden

The garden rose is considered the queen of flowers. Summer residents argue that a climbing rose requires increased attention, and only then will it please the eye for a long time. Pro proper care behind a climbing rose, we will talk about the features of its planting and shelter for the winter in our article.

Terms of planting roses in Russia

Planting climbing roses in the Moscow region and middle lane Russia is held in late April - early May, at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees Celsius, but before the buds open. According to observations, in climbing roses planted in spring, there is a slight lag in growth from autumn seedlings by an average of 14 days.

Planting a climbing rose in summer is recommended for own-rooted (grown from cuttings, layering or propagated by dividing the bush) plants, in containers with a closed root system. It is they who are advised to acquire novice gardeners, however, it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding for care, especially for shelter for the winter.

Climbing roses are planted in the south in autumn, until mid-October. After 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root processes. In winter, the young rhizome hardens, and with the onset of spring it will develop simultaneously with the ground part and form a strong bush.

Site selection and site preparation

The perfect place for planting a climbing rose - a well-lit, flat and dry area with a slight slope for rain and melt water to drain or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and wetlands for planting. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the roots, and the lack of sun and ventilation - to the fungus.

For the same reason, the depth of groundwater in the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow choosing such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial elevation. A large stone is placed at the bottom of the planting hole, which prevents the roots from deepening and they begin to grow horizontally. Climbing rose, which is planted using this technology, requires additional protection of the root system. The roots are well compacted when planting, they are mulched with tree bark or sawdust.

If the groundwater lies close to the surface, caring for climbing roses involves the presence of a room on the site for moving the bushes for winter storage. For this purpose, a dry heated basement or garage, an insulated veranda or terrace are suitable.

Re-planting roses in one place is not desirable

A place where roses have already grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. In the absence of an alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced.

The soil for planting in the spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils, with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5, are most suitable for climbing roses.

Coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leafy soil (6: 1: 1: 1: 1) are added to the clay soil; in sandy - clay, soddy soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg of wood ash, a pound of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk are also added to the earth mixture, depending on the pH of the soil.

climbing rose - perennial with powerful roots, which should be located freely. Therefore, for one bush, they dig a hole up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.

The top layer of soil is laid aside, the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small gravel, a prepared earthen mixture is laid out on top of a height of 40 cm, which is sprinkled with a deposited layer of soil.

Curly roses planting and care

Seedlings with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. When planted in spring, the shoot of a rose is shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In autumn, the stems are not pruned; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom. The roots are cut to a living white tissue by 25 cm and sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection.

The prepared plant is dipped into a creamy clay mash and 1/10 of fresh manure for an hour. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Buton or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are preliminarily diluted in 0.5 of water.

The grafting site for climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can put down its own roots. When planting, make sure that the root system is straightened and when falling asleep with earth, air voids do not form. Caring for climbing roses in summer consists in carefully removing wild rose hips with a sharp knife, leaving no stumps, unnecessary cuts and damage.

After planting, the soil is compacted and watered. For watering own-rooted climbing roses, a mixture is used, dissolving one tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin per 10 liters of water. Chemicals enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plant from drying out, the bush is spudded and mulched. At a distance of 20 cm, a support is placed for further garter. Curly roses planted in spring are covered with a film for 2 weeks for better recovery and adaptation of the roots.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, the plants do not require top dressing. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, loosen and mulch the soil, and tie the bush to a support. When stems grow up to 3 m long, the support is removed, and the stems are treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Climbing rose landing and care video

Climbing rose care after flowering

To give the bush the desired shape from the second year after planting in the ground, they start pruning. Climbing rose, the care of which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of shoots, is always cut to general rule, regardless of the variety - the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.

In place of the old, young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.

Caring for remontant varieties of roses

Roses of remontant varieties are thinned out in early spring and after flowering. Strong formative pruning is carried out until the end of June, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before winter. With a later procedure, they may die.

Photo and detailed description you will find climbing varieties of roses in our material.

Shelter for the winter and care for roses in spring

Shelter for wintering is carried out in two ways: untied and bent to the ground or fixed on a support.

Unsupported shelter for the winter

The bush is untied from the support. At a slight angle, it is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches.

The top is wrapped with fiberglass, which allows the plant to breathe and does not let water through. The soil under the plant is sprinkled with dry earth and mulched with fallen leaves.

Shelter on a support

The bush is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofiber or burlap and secured with twine.

Removal of winter shelter and spring care

In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely - after the snow melts. The soil under the bushes is loosened and fresh compost is added. The plant is examined for diseases and damage, if necessary, cutting off the affected area.

Moldy areas are treated with 15% copper sulphate, and the stems are tied horizontally to a support to reduce the formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds form along the entire length of the main stems, not just at the top.

Curly roses, planting and caring for which are carried out in accordance with all the rules, require a mandatory garter:

• For tying, choose plastic, silicone twine, and not wire wrapped in paper. It eventually decays from moisture, and the metal can damage the plant;
• The strapping should fit the stem tightly, but not injure it;
• Supports should be checked regularly and, if necessary, repaired or completely replaced.

Watch out for supports and garter

It is important to remember that poor-quality support or bad twine can break the stems of the bush and seriously damage it.

Outcome

Growing an incredibly beautiful climbing rose in your area is not so difficult, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. Subject to the rules of planting and appropriate care climbing plant will delight with its chic buds for many years.

Ecology of life. Manor: Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, arbors, fences.

Climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers has always been especially admired by gardeners. This is a real find for a landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, arbors, fences.

Despite the huge whips, reaching 5-6 m in length, all varieties of climbing roses are shrubs. One would think that in this case, planting and caring for them is similar to other types of roses, but everything is not so simple. Long whips impose special obligations on the owner of such luxury. Therefore, in order to achieve real aesthetics from a climbing rose, you need to know how to properly care for it.

Planting time: spring or autumn?

All types of "queen of flowers" are considered rather capricious, and climbing roses are no exception, care for which must be thought through to the smallest detail. And you need to start with right choice landing time. It is best to time this event for the May warm days.

In this case, you will be sure that before winter the plants will have time to get stronger and will not die during the cold weather. Climbing rose bushes with dormant buds can be planted before the buds begin to bloom on the trees, as soon as the soil warms up to 10-12 °. In the event that you bought a seedling in a greenhouse (that is, with leaves), then it is necessary to plant it only after the buds open on the trees.

You can also plant bushes in August-September, but then there is always a risk of plant death if it does not have time to properly take root before the onset of frost.

Place to land

The site for planting a climbing rose should be well lit in the morning. This is important, since it is the warm morning sun that will dry the dew on the leaves and give no chance for fungal diseases. A completely open area is not as desirable, as midday sunlight can cause the delicate petals to “burn out” and even the entire plant to dry out.

Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the chosen place is protected from cold north and northeast winds, and also not located on the corner of the building, where drafts are constantly walking - the gentle climbing rose does not like this, its development will inevitably be oppressed.

Soil for climbing roses: what to consider?

Climbing rose develops normally only on permeable soils. This means that rain (or irrigation) water must freely pass deep into the earth and not linger in the root zone. Otherwise, rotting of the root system and death of the plant from lack of nutrition are inevitable.

Therefore, if the groundwater in your area is too close to the surface of the earth, you should plant roses only on hills. However, if this is not possible, you can do it differently: dig a hole to a depth that does not reach the groundwater level, and then concrete the bottom or put a large flat stone there.

Such a precautionary measure will not allow groundwater to "get" to the root zone and damage them, in addition, the taproots will not deepen and their bulk, as they grow, will not be located vertically, but horizontally. After that, a sufficient layer of fertile soil is poured onto the stone or concrete, where the plant is subsequently planted.

Climbing roses grow best on fertile loam - they are water and breathable enough to provide good nutrition to the root system. Heavy clay and light sandy soil not suitable for growing roses. At the same time, if such soil is on your site, you should not despair.

You can improve the situation by adding sand to clay soils, and dilute sandy soils with clay. This will adjust the permeability of the soil to air and water, but will not add fertility to the soil. To improve this indicator, you should add humus or humus to the soil.

Distance between climbing roses

When planting, it is necessary to ensure a distance between roses equal to 0.5 - 1 m in a row and 1-2 m between rows. In the event that planting is carried out near the gazebo or the wall of the house, then the distance between the plant and the blind area should be at least 0.35 - 0.5 m.

You can divide the garden into several zones using trellises lined with climbing roses on both sides. Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to obscure each other. At the same time, the distance between them is maintained at 0.5 - 1 m, as in the usual landing pattern. Such a screen will be decorative all summer, even when the climbing rose has faded.

Preparing a seedling for planting

Before you start planting, the rose bush must be carefully inspected and all broken, crushed and rotten parts of the root system must be removed. Sections for disinfection are powdered with crushed charcoal to prevent rotting of the resulting wounds. Next, it is desirable to dip the roots into a mixture-talker, consisting of clay mixed with fresh mullein (10%) and phosphorobacterin. 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin are preliminarily dissolved in 0.5 l of water, and then this composition is poured into 9.5 l of mash. Mullein can be replaced with heteroauxin by adding 1 tablet to 10 liters of mash.

During spring planting, seedlings of any variety of climbing roses are pruned. At the same time, two developed buds are left on strong shoots, and one on weak ones. If planting takes place in the fall, then pruning is still done in the spring, after being removed from the bushes winter shelter.

Planting and caring for a young seedling

To begin with, they dig a hole, the dimensions of which should ensure free placement of the roots, and the root neck must be deepened by at least 10 cm. the temperature does not fall below -2 degrees. Also, the deepening of the root neck of self-rooted climbing roses will contribute to the formation of a large number of additional roots.

A mound of fertile soil is poured into the hole, around which the roots are evenly spread and covered, leaving no voids if possible. After filling the hole with earth, it is rammed with feet. Own-rooted climbing roses are watered with a mixture of phosphorobacterin and heteroauxin for better survival.

During the growing season, the weaving rose needs regular watering, top dressing, removal of weeds, dried flowers and weak branches.
Already after the removal of the winter shelter with the onset of spring heat, pruning is carried out, last year's plant residues are removed, roses are sprayed with pesticides, the soil around the plant is loosened, and the necessary fertilizers are applied.

Proper pruning of climbing roses

Climbing roses need correct pruning, the purpose of which is the formation, obtaining a long and abundant flowering, improving the crown. Pruning also helps to get a solid cover of the plant with new shoots.

Pruning is carried out after the plant has completely faded, that is, at the end of summer. First of all, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Strong annual shoots are not removed. Old shoots are removed if new replacement shoots have appeared on the branch. That is, pruning is done in such a way that instead of old shoots new, annual ones come. Biennial shoots are not pruned - it is on them that the bulk of the flowers will be concentrated next summer.

garter of climbing roses

When forming a climbing rose, one should not strive for all the main branches to grow upwards. It may happen that all the flowers and leaves are "relocated" to the upper part of the plant, and this will not add to its aesthetics.

Therefore, in order to avoid such a nuisance, you need to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Then vertical side shoots will soon appear on them, growing upwards. A similar principle of forming a weaving rose will perfectly mask a trellis or wall, as well as provide luxurious and long flowering.

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Climbing rose care in winter

In winter, any roses, including climbing ones, require shelter. At the same time, it is important to know that there should be air space between the shelter (film, roofing felt, spruce branches) and the plant. If possible, the lashes of roses are removed from the support, rotten, diseased shoots are removed, as well as all leaves.

After that, the branches are wrapped with twine and fastened to the ground with wooden or metal studs. From above, the whips are covered with roofing felt, film, leaves or spruce branches. You can also cover a climbing rose right on a support, for example, if it wraps around an arch. In this case, at first, the support is tied with burlap, roofing paper or film, and then covered with spruce branches. published