Falling cucumbers what to do. Various diseases of cucumber seedlings and their causes. Why cucumber seedlings turn yellow: what to do

Appeared more than 6 thousand years ago, the cucumber is still one of the favorite crops of gardeners. This fruit not only tastes good, but also has a wide range of medicinal and dietary properties.

Cucumbers are easily digested by the body, regulate bowel function and remove excess cholesterol. And thanks to the presence of potassium, they improve the functioning of the heart and kidneys. Cucumbers are grown in almost every garden.

However, they require special care, and if something is not observed, they begin to turn yellow. Therefore, today in our article we will tell you why cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse and what needs to be done to avoid this.

Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow?

Diseases and insects are two reasons why cucumber leaves turn yellow. Diseases are the result of non-observance of optimal conditions for growing cucumbers. To avoid them, it is necessary to properly water and fertilize the plants, to avoid temperature changes.

However, the "chemical" fruits collected during this period will have to be thrown away. With a sudden wilting of a plant, it must be completely removed, and with it the infected soil from the hole where it grew.

How to properly water cucumbers?

One of the main reasons why cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse is irregular watering and use cold water. If you want your cucumbers to grow healthy, water them properly. It is important that the cucumber soil is always moist, but never turn it into slush.

Water for irrigation should be settled and heated in the sun. In the heat, watering should be daily, in the evening, followed by careful loosening of the soil. If cold weather is expected at night, then watering should be carried out in the morning.

How to properly feed cucumbers?

At the beginning of the growing season, the cucumber needs more nitrogen, during the period of growth in a loop - potassium, during fruiting and the appearance of new growths, nitrogen is again required. Therefore, improper feeding can be another reason why cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse.

The main thing to remember is that plants need little, but proper feeding. Cucumbers have weak roots that are not able to penetrate deeper than 20 cm, so plants are especially sensitive to soil properties. Fertilize it with manure, decayed garbage, straw, peat or sawdust.

Enrich the compost with nitrogen and fertilize locally. Do not forget about mineral fertilizers. Over the summer, you need to properly feed cucumbers no more than 5 times. The first feeding is carried out at the beginning of flowering. The next four are during the fruiting period.

They use chicken manure and mullein, but they can also be replaced with ready-made top dressings. When warming comes to replace a long cold snap, greenhouse cucumbers need ammonium nitrate. Cucumbers are fed by placing fertilizer in the furrows, after which they are watered. During low temperatures, the plant is supported by foliar top dressing.

Cucumbers love warmth.

When choosing a place for planting cucumbers, you need to be guided by such a factor as the absence of a draft. Since drafts and sudden changes in temperature can cause the leaves of cucumbers to turn yellow. You can open the greenhouse only when the temperature inside exceeds 30 ° C.

Moreover, you need to open the doors on each side in turn. Opening from both sides at once, you will allow the appearance of a draft.

How to get rid of pests on cucumbers?

There are a lot of insect pests, as a result of which cucumbers turn yellow in the greenhouse. This is a sprout fly, and a cucumber mosquito, and aphids, and a spider mite.

All these insects or their larvae feed on the leaves, stems and fruits of cucumbers, which inevitably leads to drying and death of the plant. In order to get rid of them and save the plant and crop, it is necessary to choose the right pest control agent. But do not forget - after treating the plant with one or another drug, all grown fruits must be removed and discarded. It is extremely unsafe to eat cucumbers that have been contaminated with drops of pest control agents.

Wednesday, January 16, 2013 13:36 Which cucumbers are better - bee-pollinated or self-pollinated? Good advice from agronomist Anatoly Osikhov. - It all depends on what opportunities the gardener has.

If, for example, he has such a site where there are problems with insects or, for example, too much heat and fewer insects, then it is better to use self-pollinated ones, they give a guaranteed harvest. But if there are no problems with insects, then you can plant both bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic varieties in the same way, you will still have a good harvest.

In general, they are quite similar in yield and have close yields. Good modern varieties can yield anywhere up to 20 kg per sq.m.

But I would not recommend planting varieties of cucumbers, this is somewhat of the last century, they may be tasty somewhere, maybe somewhere many of them are better in salting, but they have one big problem. At first, they produce mostly only male flowers.

And the male flowers are so saturated, there are so many of them that they take a lot of nutrition from the roots of the plant, so a lot of time passes before the female ovaries are formed, which will be fertilized and produce cucumbers. If you have already planted varieties, then it is advisable to cut off the male flowers at the initial stage of development and let the plant develop.

Male flowers take a lot of food. Do not forget that the mustache also takes food. The plant develops longer, enters the fruiting stage much later and you lose about 10-15 days in terms of ripening. What is important for cucumbers.

1. low temperatures. This summer cannot be called warm, so it is quite possible that the cucumbers do not have enough night temperatures to start pouring cucumbers.

Since your plants "live" in a greenhouse, this is most likely not the case, but to be sure, you should hang up a thermometer and see what the temperature is at night in the greenhouse. The best time to do this is early in the morning.

If the temperature drops below 19°C, close the greenhouse earlier in the evening and open later in the morning. 2. plants are not formed. Plants in the greenhouse require shaping.

If plants are not developed in greenhouses, yields can be significantly reduced due to plant inhibition caused by thickening, shading and the appearance of stem rot. In addition, it will be inconvenient to care for plants and harvest.

In most hybrids, a significant part of the crop is formed on the main whip. To maintain a favorable ratio between the vegetative and generative parts, plants are formed into 1 stem. Why do cucumber ovaries fall off in a greenhouse?

Most likely, this is due to a violation of the nutrition of the plant. The cucumber is very large leaves. They evaporate a lot of water, and the culture has to be watered frequently. At the same time, rapidly soluble elements of nitrogen and potassium are washed out of the soil into the lower layers.

Potassium starvation of plants is one of the reasons for the fall of the ovaries. They also fall off at low air and soil temperatures, especially in parthenocarpic hybrids, in which at temperatures below + 14-15 ° C, the absorption of nutrients decreases.

Low temperatures are especially dangerous at night. If it is below + 15 ° C, the growth of the ovaries is sharply restrained. At a higher air temperature (above + 35 ° C), in bee-pollinated varieties and hybrids, pollen becomes sterile.

Plants may flower but not bear fruit. Their fall can also occur with a lack of light, if the planting is thickened. This makes it difficult for the bees to reach the flowers.

Trim excess shoots or pinch them. Feed the plants regularly, every 10-12 days. Cover them early on cold nights. Some gardeners pour water into plastic containers and place them along the edges of the ridges.

During the day they are heated by the sun, and at night they give off heat. It is necessary to pinch off the central lash at the point of growth, cut it off with scissors. Cucumbers are on the side lashes.

If the plant does not have enough power for normal fruit formation, then there are not enough minerals in the earth for fruit formation. Large temperature difference between night and day. Bad pollination.

And there are other reasons: watering with cold water, as well as during the growth period, cucumbers suffered a shock - a cold night temperature of plus 8 and below. Try spraying the leaves with Ovary, Bud and others. Fluff oven ash under the roots.

Put a cap of honey on the ground next to cucumbers to attract bees to the site. Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow in a greenhouse? The first answer to the question: “why do cucumber leaves turn yellow?” there will be a lack of moisture.

Everyone needs water, and especially fruit plants, which, when there is a shortage of water, begin to save it and drop their leaves for this, and before the leaf falls, it turns yellow due to the fact that the plant begins to draw magnesium from the leaf and redirect it to the stem and roots. Many summer residents make mistakes when watering cucumbers: - or they water often and little, believing that this way the plants get moisture better.

But in fact, with small and frequent watering, moisture does not reach the roots in depth, but is distributed in the soil. The plant begins to adapt, and the roots rise higher, where they overheat in strong sun and are also damaged when loosened; - or watered a lot, but rarely.

It turns out: at some point the culture is flooded with water, but during a hot summer, the water quickly leaves and as a result, the plant does not receive the necessary moisture, or the roots begin to rot. It is very important to correctly organize the watering of cucumbers so that the fruits are undeformed and tasty, and the leaves are green.

The norm for watering cucumbers is about 25 liters per plant with two waterings per week. You also need to test the soil for moisture, periodically take a piece of earth from a ten-centimeter depth and squeeze it in your hand, determining whether the earth is wet or not, in order to avoid overfilling or underfilling.

How to properly form a lettuce cucumber plant For a harmonious ratio of the processes of shoot formation and fruit set, cucumber plants of all varieties need shaping.

To do this, on the lower part of the main stem (60 cm above the soil level), pinch the growth points of lateral shoots and remove all the rudiments of flowers. The main stem must be tied to a support - this can be a rope attached to the ceiling of the greenhouse (see picture).

As soon as the stem reaches the end of the support, it is necessary to pinch its top. As the cucumber grows, regularly shorten the side shoots by 2-6 leaves.

In addition, among the leaves of the ovaries formed in the axils, leave only one small cucumber, and cut off the rest. Tip: on hot days, water the plants abundantly to increase the humidity in the greenhouse (the optimal figure is 60%), otherwise the cucumbers will begin to drop the ovary.

Important: each plant in the summer needs 1.5–3 liters of water daily (how much to water the plants depends on whether the day is sunny or cloudy). Water preferably in the late afternoon and apply liquid fertilizer once a week.

If the leaves turn yellow or brown, this may indicate that the cucumbers lack magnesium. Measures: spraying plants with magnesium sulfate. How to deal with aphids on cucumbers

Aphids appear on cucumbers in July-August. These are insects one and a half - two millimeters, dark green or black. Aphids feed on plant sap.

Through her fault, the leaves of the plant curl, and the flowers and ovaries fall off. Colonies are placed on the plant in tens, so hundreds and even thousands. Sometimes all leaves can be littered with these cucumber pests.

If there are a lot of insects, then the affected plant is exhausted and dies. Help reduce aphids ladybugs. One has only to bring them in the spring from field grasses.

They are attracted to leafy mustard and dill. You can treat the plants with tobacco infusion or wood ash infusion with the addition of laundry soap. Infusions of onion and garlic also help against this insect.

Seventy - ninety grams of onion or forty - sixty grams of garlic should be finely crushed and pour ten liters of warm water. A day later, cucumbers can be processed with this infusion. Cucumber mites are a common problem around the world.

Vegetables are especially affected by it in greenhouses or under polyethylene. The tick sticks to the bottom of the leaf and drinks the juice of the plant. In addition, the sheet is covered with cobwebs. As a result, the once healthy and green leaf loses its color and dies.

Fight it with spraying. The necessary solution can be bought at the store. If this is not possible, then you can treat the leaves with soapy water.

You can populate a cucumber plantation with a natural enemy of an insect - phytoseiulus. It sucks the eggs that are laid by the females. But it is necessary to carry out the settlement every two to three weeks. The settlement of the Adjarian entomophora mushroom will also help to solve the problem.

Each female is capable of laying up to a hundred eggs a week. After twenty to thirty days, the eggs grow and infect vegetable beds. In addition, infusions of yarrow, celandine, dandelion and horse sorrel do well with insects.

Gall nematode - a worm-like pest of cucumber This is a very common pest that affects vegetables growing in greenhouses and hotbeds. Its length is one and a half millimeters. It penetrates the roots and settles in their tissues.

The toxic substances that it secretes form swellings and growths. They develop larvae. Plants lag behind in growth, productivity decreases.

The layer of affected soil (fifty centimeters) is changed to healthy. In greenhouses and greenhouses, the soil is treated with steam. In winter, you can freeze the ground.

Clean tools and healthy planting material should be used. Gray spots on the leaves of cucumbers can be caused by a disease of cucumbers such as gray rot.

At low night temperatures, with poor ventilation and when watering with cold water, gray spots may appear on the leaves of cucumbers, in the axils of the leaves and on the stems. These are signs of gray rot.

To prevent it from forming, it is necessary to prevent thickening of plants, do not water them with cold water and often ventilate the room. It affects all organs - petioles, fruits, leaves, mustaches, stems.

A white coating forms on the tissues, after which they soften and rot. First, white and then black fruit bodies appear on the affected areas. They are called sclerotia.

They are the cause of the infection. Sclerotia overwinter in the soil. When the air or ground is too damp, rot spreads. The affected areas should be sprinkled with fluff lime or charcoal.

Plants are most susceptible during the fruiting period. The cause of the formation of rot can also be temperature changes and thickened plantings. Be sure to alternate cultures.

Sprinkle stems with signs of damage with lime. The affected parts must be cut out, partially hitting healthy tissues. With a strong spread of infection, it is better to remove sheets during hot hours - so the wounds dry out faster.

Slices are sprinkled with crushed coal or wiped with a solution. blue vitriol. Provide regular ventilation. Watering is carried out in the evening warm water.

You can try feeding. For ten liters of water, ten grams of urea, one gram of zinc sulfate and two grams of copper sulfate are used.

Why cucumber leaves turn yellow is often not so easy to understand, because there are many reasons and it seems that they all fit your case. But you have to do something, because you don’t want to lose the harvest.

How to prevent yellowing of cucumber tops and what to do if cucumber leaves have already begun to turn yellow? Now let's find out.

Why cucumber leaves turn yellow: 6 reasons

The first reason is banal - some of the lower leaves inside the beds turn yellow and die from lack of light. This is not a cause for concern at all, it is normal.

As a rule, a cucumber bed is a real lush jungle, it is not surprising that light penetrates inside with difficulty and the lower old leaves lack it. In this case, just pick off the yellow leaves from time to time and enjoy the harvest. The second reason is a lack or excess of moisture.

In a normal summer, cucumbers are recommended to be watered abundantly two to three times a week, and in hot summer - every day, deeply wetting the ground. Otherwise, the roots of cucumbers will "get out" to the surface of the earth in search of moisture and may dry out.

For plants, this is a disaster, both leaves and ovaries begin to turn yellow. Cucumbers also do not like rainy weather: the roots rot, rot forms on the stems, as a result, we again see yellow leaves. The third reason is fungal diseases.

Most often, it is fusarium, pitiosis and other fungal diseases that cause yellow leaves on cucumbers. First appear on tops rust spots, then the leaves become covered with spots completely, dry out, fall off.

At the same time, in the case of Fusarium, the lashes become sluggish, like a rag, and do not respond to watering. If the thirty-degree heat has been replaced by cold rains and lower night temperatures, hold on: fungi will not keep you waiting. The fourth reason is pests.

The whitefly or spider mite sucks out all the juices from cucumber leaves, as a result, the leaves turn yellow and die. In this case, the recommendations are obvious: a good pest is a dead pest.

Cucumbers on the balcony

You will either have to spray the bed with "poison", or save yourself with folk remedies. The fifth reason is the lack of nutrients. The most unlikely, but still occurring, cause of yellowing cucumber leaves.

If the cucumber leaves turn yellow and the edges dry, they may not have enough potassium or magnesium. Dark green veins against a background of yellowness can signal an iron or manganese deficiency. Yellowing upper leaves occur with a lack of copper.

Feeding will help to correct this situation. Well, the last reason for yellow leaves is old age. Over time, the cucumber leaf coarsens, ages, stops photosynthesis, turns yellow and dies. Most likely, by this time you have already eaten cucumbers to satiety, and the aging lashes do not bother you.

But if you want a fresh cucumber right from the garden until autumn, there are ways to “prolong the life” of cucumber lashes, and we will talk about them later.

What to do if cucumber leaves turn yellow

The best cure for anything is prevention, and cucumber leaf yellowing is no exception. It is easier to prevent this from happening in your garden than to treat it later. Therefore: 1. Try to keep crop rotation.

Do not plant cucumbers in the same place from year to year, do not plant them after zucchini or pumpkin, otherwise the likelihood of “catching” will increase significantly fungal disease.2. Water your cucumbers regularly and generously.

If you visit the site only on weekends, do not be too lazy to mulch the beds well with weeds or mowed grass. A thick layer of mulch will not allow moisture to evaporate, as well as provide cucumber roots with additional nutrition and warmth.

After germination in the phase of 3-4 leaves (and then every 10 days), spray the cucumbers with the following composition: 20 grams of laundry soap, 1 liter of milk and 30 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water.5. Another option for preventive spraying: in the evening, soak a loaf of bread in a bucket of water, knead the bread in the morning and add a small vial of iodine.

Dilute one liter of this mixture in a bucket of water and process the cucumbers. If you repeat this procedure every two weeks, you can keep cucumbers green until autumn.6. In June, spill the cucumbers with a solution of soda (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Then the onion peel is squeezed, the broth is filtered and diluted in a ratio of 2:8 with water. Spray the leaves with this solution from above and below, and then spill the ground.8.

If you still didn’t save yourself and the leaves began to turn yellow, try spraying the cucumbers with a solution of whey or kefir (2 liters per 10 liters of water). For better fruit setting, you can add 150 grams of sugar to the solution.9.

When the leaves are just starting to turn yellow, watering with a weak solution of potassium permanganate can help. 10. To prolong fruiting and rejuvenate aging leaves of cucumbers, foliar top dressing with urea is carried out, while adding humus under the roots.

On the veins of grown true leaves;

Thinning and watery stem under cotyledon leaves;

Leaf curl;

growth retardation for no apparent reason;

Drying of the leaves with the transition of the lesion to the stems.

Diseases of seedlings of cucumbers, photo of leaves:

Yellow leaf veins

The appearance of yellowness on the veins of the leaves is associated with infection of the plant, the carrier of the virus is tobacco. An adult whitefly after 30-35 minutes of feeding on an infected plant becomes a carrier of the virus.

The causative agent of the virus is most often preserved in plants of the gourd family. With subsequent feedings of the pest, the infection is transmitted to healthy plants.

Without the manifestation of external symptoms, varieties are sick, as well as cucumber hybrids, pollinated. But parthenocarpic (self-pollinated) varieties are most severely affected. It appears in the form sharp decline productivity, the period of active fruiting is reduced. Infection with the virus can lead to the death of plants.

Virus Protection

Effective measures protection does not exist. Prevention of infection is resistant to infection hybrids. For example, Ghazal F1, Rhythm F1.

stem thinning

Upon inspection, you found fallen seedlings. Examine the plant in more detail. If you find thinning of the stems in the form of stem constrictions, this is a fungal infection - cucumber root rot, caused most often by a violation of the growing conditions most favorable for seedlings. Why cucumber seedlings fall:

• Frequent excess mineral fertilizers or mullein;
• Sharp changes in daily temperature;
• Abundant or watering with cold water.

These reasons cause wateriness and thinning of the stem of the seedling under the cotyledon leaves, followed by lodging of the seedlings. The culprit of the defeat is the fungus - the causative agent of root rot of cucumbers.

Falling seedlings of cucumbers? What to do?

Do not plant plants in the same place every year. The fungus can survive in the soil. Change the ground or carry out soil treatment before planting by watering with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, heated to a temperature of 65-70 degrees.

The measure of struggle is reduction in irrigation, especially during the period of sharp changes in daily temperatures. Limit the amount of fertilizer applied. Water the seedlings with warm water in the evening.

From the affected stems, it is advised to rake the ground and pour ash, clean sand, and peat around the stem.

Leaf curl

Wilting with leaf curl can occur for a fairly simple reason, namely lack of moisture for normal development. As the plant grows, its leaves from their surface begin to evaporate more moisture than they receive from the roots.

In this case, twisting the leaves will be an elementary defense. The plant tries to reduce the area of ​​leaves from which evaporation occurs. A simple increase in the volume of water for irrigation will save your seedlings from this ailment..

On examination, you find moderately moist soil, but at the same time twisted leaves of plants. So the seedling can react to micronutrient deficiencies in the soil. First of all, it is phosphorus, sulfur, magnesium. To eliminate the cause, it will be enough to water, combined with top dressing with mineral fertilizer containing a set of microelements necessary for development.

In case of wilting and if the leaves of cucumber seedlings curl after transferring the plants to the ridges you can carry out foliar top dressing.

Compositions for such dressings can be purchased at specialized horticultural centers, or you can cook it yourself.

To do this, it is enough to dissolve 150 grams of urea in a bucket of water. Spray the leaves of the plant with the prepared solution. Such top dressing contributes to the faster absorption of the necessary trace elements through the leaves of the planted seedlings.

Lagging development for no apparent reason

These symptoms are most often due to the death of the seedling root, although signs of damage can be seen at any stage of plant development. The most likely cause is watering with cold water or the rapid cooling of a box with watered seedlings.

Seedlings lag behind in growth and development, seedlings do not grow. Complete death of the plant is observed in the future.

There are no preventive measures for this disease. Only re-planting seeds for seedlings will help out, if the time of planting has not yet been missed.

Why do cucumber seedlings wither?

You can determine the defeat of plants visually, by the changed color and shape of the seedling leaves. On the leaves, the appearance of " honey dew” is the excretion of pests. These secretions are an excellent breeding ground for fungi.

Seedlings should be inspected for pests. If the appearance of aphids occurred, then treatment with drugs Decis or Inta-vir will help with strict observance of the instructions on the packaging of the insecticidal agent. .

spider mite

Instances of the pest are so small that on examination, it is impossible to determine the damage by a tick. It is determined when the leaves show signs of wilting. With a strong degree of damage, whitish spots are visible, on the surface of which a cobweb plaque is visible.

Prevention measures

In order to prevent damage to seedlings by pests, the following measures should be taken:

• Free planting seeds, at which contact of the leaves with each other is excluded;
• Maintaining daily temperatures- daytime 22-24, night 16-18 degrees Celsius;
• Watering at room temperature.

Carefully select varieties of cucumbers that are resistant to diseases.

Also observe the norms of agricultural technology and the prevention of pest damage.

All these measures will allow you to grow healthy seedlings, which will be the key to your harvest.

If, nevertheless, your plants are sick, then in the article we described what treatment of cucumber seedlings from diseases should be carried out?

It becomes especially offensive if yesterday the lashes of cucumbers looked great, quickly grew, fruits were massively formed on them, and the next day the cucumbers were boiled, their leaves hung lifelessly, and the ovaries fall off. Most often, the reason that green cucumbers wither is - in the wrong microclimate: at excessively high temperatures, cucumber seedlings not only wither, but also lose their ability to pollinate. After all, growing cucumbers in a greenhouse requires right choice varieties and more thorough care than required by varieties of cucumbers for open ground. In other cases, it may be due to numerous diseases caused by bacteria, viruses and other infections, much like in humans.

Diseases of cucumbers

The most dangerous and common diseases of cucumbers are:

• downy mildew; common mosaic; cladosporiosis.

Cucumber pests

In other cases, cucumber seedlings may wither when damaged by pests that suck the juices from the leaves or gnaw the roots. There are also many of these pests, but the most common of them include:

• greenhouse whitefly; melon aphid.

You can fight them with infusions of garlic, onion or chemicals. If you detect signs of the disease in time and immediately begin treatment actively, there is a chance that most of the crop can be saved, you should pay special attention to choosing a variety of cucumbers for greenhouses - the packages usually indicate plant resistance to diseases and pests, you should Be sure to study this data.

Cucumber seedlings are falling. Strings on the stalk of a cucumber

If you notice that young shoots of cucumber suddenly fell off, and in older plants, under the leaves, the stem became very thin, in the form of a constriction. What is it and how to save cucumber plants? The culprit is a fungal disease - root rot of cucumbers.

Root rot, which often occurs under unfavorable growing conditions for cucumber. The cause of the disease can be:

• irrigation with cold water, frequent feeding plants with mullein and mineral fertilizers, abundant and frequent watering, sharp fluctuations in day and night temperatures.

All this contributes to the reproduction of pathogenic soil fungi and their colonization of the roots, tissues of the root collar and stem. In adult cucumber plants, the roots become black “soaked”, a brown annular constriction forms on the stem.

There is a blockage of blood vessels, nutrients and water do not enter the plant and it dies. In young seedlings (seedlings) of cucumbers, the subcotyledonous part of the stem becomes watery and thin; affected plants suddenly fall down.

In older plants (2-3 true leaves), a constriction forms under the leaves. Such seedlings lag behind in growth, in sunny weather the leaves wither. But the infection is mainly manifested in adult plants during the fruiting period of the cucumber.

How to deal with cucumber root rot

If signs of illness are found on cucumber plants, reduce watering, especially during periods of sharp temperature fluctuations (night and day), reduce feeding with mullein, water with heated water (20-24 degrees) in the morning or after 4 pm, no later than 6 pm. Water cucumbers not under the stem, but around the plant and throughout the garden.

Rake the ground around 5 cm from the diseased stem. Treat the stem with ash, crushed coal, chalk or fluffy lime, add clean peat or sand. Annually change the place of planting cucumber in the open field.

Spray greenhouses and greenhouses (all buildings) with a 4% bleach solution. Before sowing seeds, spill the furrows with a hot (60-70 degrees) intensely pink solution of potassium permanganate.

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How disappointing it is when cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse. What is the cause of this trouble and what can be done to save the day and still get a good harvest? If the yellowing of the leaves is not accompanied by wilting, the reason is most likely a lack of nutrients. Why do the fruits and leaves of cucumbers turn yellow? Experts identify several of the most common causes.

Non-compliance with the technology of growing cucumbers in greenhouses

Cucumber is a very moisture-loving plant (like pepper), so you should not neglect the rules for watering this vegetable. These rules are simple: so that the cucumbers do not start to hurt and turn yellow, the water for irrigation should not be cold (watering from a hose is not good). Water should be defended.

During the fruiting period, watering should be increased. In cool weather, plants are watered during the daytime, and on sunny warm days - in the morning. If the days are hot, then in the morning watering is done only refreshing, and in the evenings - normal.

The depth of the moistened earth should be sufficient so that the root system of cucumber plants develops in depth, and not superficially. The regularity of watering is crucial: it is only a few times to go astray and skip watering the plants, and this will immediately affect the quality of future fruits. So, the lack of moisture entails the yellowing of the plant itself and the new ovary of cucumbers. Yellow spots indicate a lack of potassium, and light green ones are a sign of magnesium deficiency.

This means that cucumbers need to be fed. Weather conditions often become the reason why cucumbers turn yellow. Cold and wet weather caused by late frosts can damage plants.

If rotting of the ovaries appears, it is urgent to remove the already faded flowers and treat the cut with potassium permanganate (solution). To prevent further bacteriosis, spraying is carried out with either 1% Bordeaux mixture or 0.4% copper oxychloride.

It is worth noting that peppers can also turn yellow and lose leaves if they are in temperature conditions up to +120 ° C for a long time. The composition of the soil is crucial. The lack of nitrogen and the scarcity of the soil is a common reason why the development of the plant is disturbed.

It is important to ensure that there is no overdose in the amount of fertilizer, which, in turn, leads to oppression and yellowing of seedlings and their fruits. Before planting cucumber seedlings and after the harvest is harvested, mandatory manure is introduced into the soil. And during the growing season, fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus, fluorine and potassium, and liquid mullein is considered mandatory.

Damage to plants by various diseases or pests

powdery mildew. If light spots resembling white plaque were found on the leaves, gradually increasing in size, then this is a sign of infection. The leaf dries and turns yellow. How to deal with this trouble?

If you do not worry about measures to destroy powdery mildew, next season it will certainly make itself felt. The fungicide preparations Topsin, Bayleton, Karatan will help. The main cucumber disease in our area, in which the leaves turn yellow, is downy mildew (peronosporosis). You should also pay attention to varieties of cucumbers that are resistant to this disease. Fusarium wilt.

A dangerous fungal disease that causes the death of cucumbers in a greenhouse. Penetrating into the capillaries of the plant, the spores of this fungus completely block the access of nutrition to the fruits and leaves. In greenhouses where infection has occurred, a complete replacement of the soil is required.

Special preparations cope well with these pests: Belofos, Arrivo and the like. Root rot. The leaves, both in young plants and in adults, begin to turn yellow from below. This is caused by significant temperature differences between day and night.

The reason may be watering too "cold" water. Weakened plants fall ill first, then infection through the soil begins to be transmitted to other cucumbers.

Preventive treatment (twice) with Previkur in the root area can prevent this unpleasant disease. Downy mildew (pernosporosis). This disease, common in melons and cucumbers, appears in greenhouses in conditions of high humidity of air and soil, against the background of dense planting of seedlings.

Affected fruits shrink and turn yellow. The first signs of damage may appear immediately with the onset of the fruiting period. In this case, the crop can be completely destroyed.

How to determine that the plants are sick? Sharp-angled, dark green spots appear on the lower leaves. Preparations for combating pernosporosis - Bordeaux mixture or copper chloride oxide (for the first treatment), "Bravo", "Avixil" (for the second treatment after 7 days).

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Other reasons:

Plants are overloaded with ovaries. In a greenhouse, cucumbers and peppers develop very quickly. But, in order for the fruits not to turn yellow, for further development do not leave more than 25-30 ovaries.

By removing new shoots in time, delays in the development and formation of greens can be prevented. If this rule is not observed, the result may be underdeveloped, small and yellow fruits. The fertilization process was insufficient. This happens when hybrid varieties are used in the greenhouse that require artificial pollination. cucumber fruits are only green. This list of reasons why cucumbers turn yellow in your greenhouse will help you choose the best way how to save your crop. Having listed the main reasons why cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse, let's take a closer look at each of these problems.

Violation of agrotechnical conditions

Low temperatures and frosts

Cucumber, as you know, the plant is warm and moisture-loving. In conditions middle lane, especially at the end of May, the so-called "return frosts".

Cucumber seedlings planted under film shelters or in greenhouses can not only turn yellow, but also stop growing and developing. To avoid that the leaves of cucumbers turn yellow in the greenhouse, it is necessary to additionally cover the planted plants with lutrasil or bubble wrap.

Many gardeners, at sub-zero temperatures and frosts, put plastic bottles of hot water under such a shelter in order to maintain a normal temperature for the growth and development of cucumbers. Attention: It is important to remember that this plant prefers a temperature of + 22 + 260С for its development. In the event that the temperature drops below +140C, or above +420C, the plant stops its growth and development.

If the temperature is below -10C, the cucumber seedlings will die. Thus, in order to protect the cucumbers planted in the greenhouse from frost and low temperatures, they should be additionally covered with a film placed on the arcs, or with a special non-woven covering material such as lutrasil, agrotex or spandbond. This will help keep the temperature in the greenhouse acceptable for plants.

Lack of mineral elements in the soil

Also, the reason why cucumber leaves turn yellow in a greenhouse can be a lack of minerals in the soil in which the plants were planted. As a rule, the leaves of cucumbers in the greenhouse turn yellow due to a lack of nitrogen.

Yellowing begins with the fact that the leaves have a lighter color, and then completely turn yellow, both the veins themselves and the entire leaf space between them. Subsequently, all the lashes of the plant turn yellow.

Another sign indicating a nitrogen deficiency in the soil is the irregular, “hook-shaped” shape of the fruit. The lack of nitrogen in cucumbers can be caused by excessive application of wood ash, potash fertilizers or superphosphate.

In order to avoid nitrogen deficiency in cucumbers, cucumber seedlings are recommended, a few days before planting in greenhouses, feed with fertilizers and spray with a solution of trace elements (see How to choose the right fertilizer for cucumbers in a greenhouse). When digging a greenhouse in autumn and spring, it is necessary to make rotted manure, at the rate of two or three buckets per 1m2. This will help to avoid nitrogen starvation in plants.

If, in the process of digging, manure was not introduced, then before planting the seedlings in the greenhouse, you can introduce rotted mullein into the soil, and during the entire growing season, feed the plants with an aqueous solution of mullein or chicken manure, as well as an infusion of herbs, which is also called "herbal tea." It will also help to eliminate the lack of nitrogen in the soil by applying mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen in their composition.

The leaves of cucumbers in a greenhouse and greenhouse turn yellow even when too much mineral fertilizer is applied to the soil. Before applying this or that fertilizer, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions on the package.

Insufficient watering

Cucumbers are moisture-loving plants and require both frequent watering and high humidity in the greenhouse or greenhouse where they are grown. However, watering these plants should be carried out only with warm and settled water.

The leaves of cucumbers turn yellow in the greenhouse and from watering with cold water, and from its insufficient amount. At a time when active fruiting occurs, watering should be increased.

It is necessary to moisten the soil quite deeply, since it is the deep penetration of water that will contribute to the development of not only the surface, but also the deeper root system of plants. not regular and insufficient watering will be reflected both on the leaves themselves and on the ovary and fruits of cucumbers.

Insufficient pollination

One of the reasons why cucumber ovaries turn yellow in a greenhouse may be poor pollination. flowering plants. This may be due to the fact that only artificially pollinated plants were planted, as well as due to the lack of ventilation or the possibility of access for insects to pollinate plants (see How to attract bees to grow a good crop).

In this case, you can use spraying dissolved in water boric acid(5 grams per 10 liters of water), or preparations "Bud" or "Ovary". From natural methods, you can use sweet water spraying (one tablespoon of sand or honey is dissolved in two liters of water), which will attract insects.

For the next season, in the greenhouse in which you plan to plant cucumbers, plant dill, or some honey plants, for example, borage, hyssop. These plants will be able to attract insects to the greenhouse, which can pollinate the plants and promote the formation of normal ovaries.

Plant overload with ovaries

In the literature on gardening and growing cucumbers in greenhouses, when asked why cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse, they answer that it is not advisable to leave more than 20-25 ovaries on one plant at the same time. This is due to the fact that cucumbers develop quite quickly in greenhouse conditions. In many hybrid varieties, the formation of more than one hundred and fifty ovaries on one plant at a time is possible.

It is necessary to pinch new shoots in a timely manner to enable cucumbers to form and ripen normally. In the event that excessive shoots and ovaries were not removed, then the fruits may develop an ugly shape, and cucumbers in the greenhouse also turn yellow.

Plant damage by insects or fungal infections

So, let's figure out what insects and diseases can harm cucumbers, and how to deal with them (see Diseases of Cucumbers in a Greenhouse, Causes and Treatment Methods).

fungal diseases

Fusarium wilt or Fusarium - a fungal disease

This disease manifests itself as follows: cucumbers sprout normally and grow well, but as soon as the ovaries begin to appear, the leaves of the cucumbers in the greenhouse first turn yellow, after which the lashes dry out. The fungus that causes this disease penetrates the plant and releases toxins that restrict the supply of nutrients and trace elements to the leaves and stems.

The way to deal with such a fungal infection is to regularly change the varieties planted in the greenhouse, as well as partial replacement affected soil. Powdery mildew is also a fungal disease.

In this disease, the fungus blocks the processes of photosynthesis in the plant. First of all, small light spots appear on the cucumber leaves, which gradually spread to the entire surface of the leaf.

On all leaves of the plant, a whitish or reddish coating is observed on the upper surface of the leaf blade. After that, the leaves of the cucumbers in the greenhouse turn yellow and dry up. In order for the disease not to visit your greenhouse next season, you need to take a number of measures. First of all, when choosing varieties of cucumbers for the next season, pay attention to the resistance of one or another variety to powdery mildew, and also annually treat the soil in the greenhouse with potassium permanganate or green manure.

Downy mildew (pernosporosis)

The appearance of such a disease in greenhouses is facilitated by very densely planted plants, as well as excessive moistening of the air and soil in the greenhouse. The first signs of the development of peronosporosis are the appearance of yellow and light spots on the leaves, which are limited by veins.

In the future, the spots become oily and light yellow, and eventually turn brown. On the underside of the leaf plate, in those places where there are spots, a grayish-brown coating is formed. If no action is taken, the plant will die within a few days.

If the cucumbers in the greenhouse turn yellow, root rot can also be the cause of this phenomenon. Plants at any stage of development can suffer from this disease.

The reason for such a defeat of cucumbers can be a significant difference in night and day temperatures, as well as watering plants with cold and not settled water. Weakened plants are the first to be affected, and then other plants are infected through the soil. In order to prevent damage to plants by this disease, it is necessary to treat the root area twice a season with Previkur, according to the instructions.

insect pests

melon aphid

This pest prefers to “inhabit” the underside of cucumber leaves and feeds on plant sap, which is why cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse and in a greenhouse. The gourd aphid poses a danger to cucumbers throughout the summer season.

spider mite

This pest appears, first of all, on the inside of the cucumber leaf, where it weaves small cobwebs. First, white or light yellow spots appear on the leaf, and then the leaves are completely covered with yellow spots and dry out. Throughout all the warm days, the spider mite multiplies, and if you do not fight it, for example, with Akarin, Tsimbush, Fitoverm and others, you can lose all the plants in the greenhouse.

1. Lump sulfur and kerosene. Respirator.

The first step is to process the greenhouse, with wooden iron frames being processed in different ways. Iron frames and components must be painted with a normal water-based paint, wood frames must be treated with vitriol.

With the help of a shovel and garbage bags, it is necessary to remove the soil. After cleaning, the earth needs to be dug up, and the sooner the better. This will determine how much the soil will freeze in winter and be cleansed of the microorganisms that have settled it.

You also need to fertilize the soil immediately. It is better to set fire to the earth collected in bags, more benefit she won't bring. It is necessary to renew the soil in this way every 3 years for good harvest cucumbers in a greenhouse. Such a procedure as fumigation will help to carry out a complete disinfection of the earth in a greenhouse.

It is carried out by setting fire to lump sulfur mixed with kerosene in special containers. Care should be taken to ensure that all air passages in the greenhouse are blocked.

Such a procedure is carried out at a temperature not higher than 18 ° C. After 4 days, the greenhouse will need to be ventilated. It seems that all these methods are not very important, but the yield directly depends on properly prepared soil.

In the contaminated soil of the greenhouse, cucumbers will not grow. The soil is also treated by spraying with a formalin solution. The ratio for cooking with water is 1:1.

This method is effective in the absence of a draft wind. The use of bleach will help in disinfection. This method is called wet, the ratio is 1 kg per 11 liters of water. Moreover, this method will help to clear not only the earth.

After soaking, the lime should completely dissolve. This happens after 1.5 weeks. Then, not sparing the solution, all the wells are watered. What remains at the bottom of the bucket is an excellent material for processing frames.

Another way in which lime components are present is to sprinkle dry lime powder on the beds with a calculation of 50 g per 0.5 m. Such methods are guaranteed to lead to the destruction of fungi, bacterial and mold microorganisms, and various types of mites. In specialized stores, you can purchase preparations for such processing methods. In situations where soil preparation is postponed until spring, it is necessary to apply manure fertilizer that has undergone biological and thermal treatment before digging.

Mistake No. 1 - the soil in the greenhouse is not updated

Scheme for preparing fertile soil for a greenhouse. All of the above methods indicate that big mistake when planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, it can be allowed if the soil is not updated. At the same time, the fruitfulness of the crop for the next year will be in jeopardy.

It is better not to be too lazy and, having processed, prepare the soil in the greenhouse in advance. Accumulating microbes and bacteria contribute to the development of various fungal diseases, such as downy mildew.

It infects seedlings, and there will be no harvest in subsequent years if measures are not taken to clean the soil. For example, greens (4-6 pcs.) Because of it, they bend and dry, only when they start. A very common mistake of a person is damage to the rhizomes of cucumbers.

This culture has a long period of adaptation. That's why the best option for planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, seedlings must be counted, their approximate age is 25-36 days.

Such "youth" is quickly mastered and begins to bear fruit. If you use the seed planting method, you need to remember that the greenhouse soil must be warm enough to avoid seed rotting. The culture is very afraid of cold weather, and planting seeds in cold soil will lead to nothing but rotting. In some cases, you need to wait for good weather conditions, even if the landing occurs later than usual.

Mistake number 2 - wrong landing

To save space in the greenhouse and get more vegetables, people plant cucumbers very close to each other. So they end up on the same bed different types varieties, which is wrong.

For good growth and fruiting, it is necessary to maintain certain indicators of temperature, ventilation and lighting. The distance between the bushes should be at least 20 cm so that the plants breathe, the bushes grow without interfering with each other reaching for the sun's rays, and the rhizome grows as it suits it. A cucumber that grows in a greenhouse loves organic fertilizers very much.

If there is no opportunity to purchase them, the use of manure will very well replace such organic top dressing. If it is problematic with manure, then the way out is to build a pit in which you need to put organic waste - fallen leaves, weed grass and straw.

You can not use when planting different types on the same bed. When buying seeds, you need to pay special attention to the growing instructions, where you can find information about whether to place the crop together with another or not. Incorrectly planted plants begin to hurt.

Mistake number 3 - chemical treatment and improper treatment

Cucumber loves to be fertilized. Plants of some varieties even stop their development without organic feeding. Top dressing is good because it saturates the soil with all the nutrients that are so necessary for growth and harvest.

Moreover, it should be fed gradually and constantly. If you throw all the fertilizers into the holes at once, you can only do harm. Feeding takes place once a week. You need to increase the amount of fertilizer if there is a sign that the crop is starving.

With multiple top dressing, it is necessary to water the plant abundantly. Cucumbers are very fond of water. It's no secret that insufficiently watered fruits will be bitter.

You can refuse to use chemical treatment, but then you should plant disease-resistant cucumber species. If the plant is still sick, gardeners immediately try to treat it by spraying and pouring it with unnecessary medicine. Cucumbers need to be processed all season, and evenly.

As soon as the leaves appear, the first processing takes place. The second - after 3 weeks, the third - before flowering. And the last processing - 18 days before the greens appear.

The third time we transplant cucumbers. They sprout together, but when the first true leaf appears, they immediately turn yellow and die. Grow in a greenhouse.

Linen. region Karelian Isthmus.1 year ago by xelga xelga

1 answer

There may be root rot if the ground is cold and you water it with cold water. Try growing in cups, and transplant with a clod of earth into the ground when the ground warms up.

You can also water the ground and the plants themselves under the root with special bacteria - Trichoderma, which kills all these rots. The drug is called phytodermin and is available in garden stores.

You can also make a hole and fill it with good healthy soil and plant cucumbers already there. It happens that pests damage the roots (beetle, bear). Then I make cylinders 10-12 centimeters high from a plastic mesh and dig into the ground, and plant seeds or seedlings there. The roots crawl through the mesh and when the plants get stronger, the pests are no longer scary.1 year ago by Osi Ste

Related questions

Cucumber seedlings are falling. Strings on the stalk of a cucumber

If you notice that young shoots of cucumber suddenly fell off, and in older plants, under the leaves, the stem became very thin, in the form of a constriction. What is it and how to save cucumber plants? The culprit is a fungal disease - root rot of cucumbers.

Root rot, which often occurs under unfavorable growing conditions for cucumber. The cause of the disease can be:

• irrigation with cold water, frequent feeding of plants with mullein and mineral fertilizers, abundant and frequent watering, sharp fluctuations in day and night temperatures.

All this contributes to the reproduction of pathogenic soil fungi and their colonization of the roots, tissues of the root collar and stem. In adult cucumber plants, the roots become black “soaked”, a brown annular constriction forms on the stem.

There is a blockage of blood vessels, nutrients and water do not enter the plant and it dies. In young seedlings (seedlings) of cucumbers, the subcotyledonous part of the stem becomes watery and thin; affected plants suddenly fall down.

In older plants (2-3 true leaves), a constriction forms under the leaves. Such seedlings lag behind in growth, in sunny weather the leaves wither. But the infection is mainly manifested in adult plants during the fruiting period of the cucumber.

How to deal with cucumber root rot

If signs of illness are found on cucumber plants, reduce watering, especially during periods of sharp temperature fluctuations (night and day), reduce feeding with mullein, water with heated water (20-24 degrees) in the morning or after 4 pm, no later than 6 pm. Water cucumbers not under the stem, but around the plant and throughout the garden.

Rake the ground around 5 cm from the diseased stem. Treat the stem with ash, crushed coal, chalk or fluffy lime, add clean peat or sand. Annually change the place of planting cucumber in the open field.

Spray greenhouses and greenhouses (all buildings) with a 4% bleach solution. Before sowing seeds, spill the furrows with a hot (60-70 degrees) intensely pink solution of potassium permanganate.

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What to do if the seedlings are sick?

Black leg, powdery mildew, root rot - these and many other diseases can affect seedlings while growing on a windowsill. Learn how to recognize them and what to do with diseased plants. Darkening and curvature of the stem, lodging of plants, brown bloom on the shoots, spots on the leaves of seedlings indicate the presence of dangerous diseases that can lead to the death of plants.

Blackleg

The cause of this fungal disease is contaminated soil. The defeat of seedlings begins after the creation of "favorable conditions" - excessive soil moisture and too high a temperature in the room. initial stage disease development stem darkens And thins out maybe a little warp. In the place where the defeat occurred constriction appears.

• If seedling infection occurs V early age (in the phase of cotyledon leaves), the plants first turn yellow, then rot and lie down, they can easily be pulled out of the soil. If the black leg has struck the plants before landing in the ground, their stems do not rot, but dry up. Such seedlings do not die, but begin to lag behind in growth, their root system develops poorly, which is why plants planted in the ground take root worse, lag behind in development and give a lower yield.
• before sowing seeds, be sure to disinfect the soil; do not allow thickened crops, as well as too high temperature and humidity in the room; do not overfill seedlings; loosen the soil in containers more often and ventilate the room; after watering, sprinkle the ground with dry sand; remove diseased plants along with the soil, in which they grew, capturing several neighboring plants, and treat the place where they grew with a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per 10 liters of water).

root rot

The causes of this fungal disease can be an excess amount of moisture and fertilizing, watering the plants with too cold or, conversely, hot water, poor-quality substrate. The presence of the disease is indicated brown plaque on the root collar seedlings, thinned stem And pale leaves. Plants affected by root rot die quickly.

Therefore, when a disease is detected, it is first necessary to protect healthy specimens. How to fight? So that other plants do not suffer from root rot, diseased specimens must be removed immediately.

At the initial stage of the development of the disease, the substrate under the infected plants can be sprinkled with sand, chalk or humus. Then they need to be treated with special preparations (for example, copper-containing fungicides or Fundazol). If these measures fail, affected plants should be removed immediately.

Gray rot

If seedlings become visible on leaves or stems pale brown spots, plants suffer from gray rot. In plants in an excessively moist substrate, these spots may be wet and covered with pink fluff.It is necessary to treat diseased seedlings immediately by treating 4 times (every 10 days) with copper-containing fungicides (Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, Kuproksat) or a pink solution of potassium permanganate. An infusion of garlic also helps against gray rot (30 g of crushed cloves are poured into 5 liters of water and insisted for two days).

powdery mildew

white plaque on the leaves of plants, which becomes denser with time, indicates that they are affected by powdery mildew. Over time, affected plants leaf shape changes And stems.

Then the affected leaves dry out completely and fall off. The diseased seedlings should be treated (sprayed) with a 0.5% solution of soda ash or Fundazol. Plants will need a similar treatment once a week for 2-4 weeks.

Fusarium wilt

This disease is extremely insidious, because it is not only capable of being transmitted through seeds, but can temporarily "quiet" in the ground in the remnants of planting material. When infected, the rhizome of the plant suffers first, followed by turn pale And leaves dry up.

Since the root neck of the plant rots, it is very easy to get the affected specimens out of the soil. If diseased plants are found, they must be immediately removed along with the ground. The remaining seedlings should be treated with Fundazol or another similar fungicide.

Dry rot (Phomosis)

This fungal disease is seed-borne. On the stem, seedling leaves, cotyledons appear light blurry spots with black dots. The stems gradually dry out and become rotten.

As a result, the plant develops poorly and dies. As in the case of the black leg, it is almost impossible to cure diseased plants. Therefore, they must be immediately removed along with the soil in which they grew. Pre-sowing disinfection of seeds will help prevent the development of the disease.

Southern late blight

This disease usually affects seedlings of peppers and tomatoes, however, it also occurs in young plantings of cucumbers. The disease primarily affects the roots and basal part of the stem.

Affected plants do not grow, their lower leaves wither quickly, and after the seedlings die altogether. You can find out about the presence of the disease by constrictions(the same appear with black leg disease), which can appear on any part of the stem. At the site of the lesion, the stem becomes thinner and breaks over time. To save the planting from the disease, you must first remove all diseased plants from the container, and spud the rest.

If diseased plants are found, they should be immediately removed from the container, and the seedlings should be spudded. In the future, they should be watered less often and very carefully: not at the root, but through specially prepared grooves between the rows. To avoid further development of the disease, it is necessary to monitor the humidity in the room (it should not be higher than 70%) and completely abandon foliar dressings seedlings. Observe agricultural practices and inspect your seedlings more often - these measures will help prevent the development of diseases or, in extreme cases, identify infected plants in time and take action.

How to grow good seedlings of cucumbers at home?

Cucumbers are a popular cucurbit crop, an annual herbaceous plant, successfully grown both in open ground and in protected greenhouses. Cucumbers have been successfully grown by mankind for more than 6 thousand years, they come from the foothills of the Himalayas and are even mentioned in the Bible.

Despite its ancient origin, the cucumber is still part of numerous national cuisines and is successfully used to prepare many tasty and healthy dishes. Thanks to the dietary properties of this vegetable, it has many fans all over the world: it practically does not contain proteins, carbohydrates and fats, but it contains a lot of potassium, which is indispensable for heart and kidney health, vitamins, including carotene, as well as a high percentage of trace elements. Since ancient times, cucumber has been used as medicinal plant and also in cosmetics.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers

In order to properly grow seedlings of cucumbers at home, you must follow a number of rules:

• Soil selection. Terms of planting cucumbers for seedlings. Light regime. Temperature regime. Planting seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse.

Properly grown and prepared for planting seedlings of cucumbers should have at least a couple of true leaves, a strong short stem, a rich juicy green color, a well-developed root system (if the seedling container is transparent, it should be clear that the entire clod of earth is braided with roots). To grow seedlings cucumbers for the greenhouse, it is necessary to select the so-called parthenocarpic, or self-pollinated varieties that do not need the help of bees and other insects. If the seedlings are intended for open ground, bee-pollinated varieties of this vegetable are also suitable. The seeds offered for sale are of different quality - ordinary, processed and granulated.

• Ordinary seeds must be calibrated and discarded before planting: obviously crippled and small ones are immediately selected, and the remaining ones are immersed in a strong solution of table salt - the floating seeds are unusable, and the full ones will go to the bottom. They are selected, washed thoroughly with fresh water and dried or immediately processed for sowing. Treated seeds are prepared for planting, they are often recommended to be sown directly in open ground, as they are covered with the thinnest layer of antifungal and antimicrobial drugs. Granular seeds, in addition to protective ones, are also covered with a layer of nutrients that give a positive start to young fragile plants. Calibrated seeds need moisture and warmth for germination. If these two conditions are not provided, even seeds that have already hatched may die. Most often they are wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in a place with a high temperature (about 30 degrees). Seeds that have formed a small root must be immediately planted in the ground.

An important issue for getting good seedlings of cucumbers at home is when to plant cucumbers for seedlings. If this is done too early, the seedlings will overgrow, stretch out, and be pale and brittle.

From such seedlings it is unlikely that a strong and healthy actively fruiting plant will turn out. If you linger with planting cucumbers for seedlings, the plants will be too small and weak, it will take a long time to take root in the ground and the harvest will turn out late. The optimal time for planting cucumber seeds for seedlings is 20-25 days before the planned date of transplanting into the ground or greenhouse

The choice of soil for cucumber seedlings

For active growth and high-quality fruiting, it is desirable to plant cucumber seeds for seedlings in the ground, which is similar in chemical and mechanical composition to the one in which the plant will live on. In this case, it will be easier for the roots of a young cucumber to germinate in a new environment and gain a foothold in it. As soon as the first cotyledon leaves appear, cucumber seedlings must be placed in a cooler and brighter place.

This is necessary so that the section of the stem under the cotyledons does not stretch, forming weak, fragile seedlings. You need a lot of light, but direct sun rays should be avoided - they can burn tender and soft young leaves.

Seedlings are watered with warm water, sprayed only in the morning in non-sunny weather or in a place protected from direct sunlight. Cucumbers love moist air, but do not tolerate “leaving” at night with wet leaves - in this situation, plants quickly infect fungal diseases .Such violations temperature regime, as excessive heat and prolonged hypothermia of seedlings, especially in combination with high humidity of the air and soil, lead to the “black leg” disease. With this form of root rot, a black area appears at the base of the plant stem, near the ground itself, causing cell death and the death of the entire green part.

It will not be possible to save the affected plant, it must be urgently removed and destroyed along with the earth - it is the source of the disease. The remaining seedlings must be treated with fungicides. The optimal composition of the soil for cucumber seedlings:

• Soddy or humus soil. Peat. Sand. Drainage (added to the bottom of the planting tank to remove excess moisture). Expanded clay, vermiculite, sunflower husks and other absorbent materials can be used as drainage.

Proper planting of cucumber seeds for seedlings

Prepared, pecked or processed seeds must be planted in individual containers, as the cucumber does not tolerate root damage during transplantation. Such seedlings take root for a long time, get sick and may die.

Even a plant that has taken root will be much less productive than one grown in a cup and planted with a whole clod of earth. It is necessary to plant cucumbers for seedlings 2 seeds per planting container to ensure the right number of plants. After the seeds have sprung and the cotyledon leaves unfold, the weaker plant must be removed, otherwise both cucumber seedlings will be weakened due to competition for water, light and nutrients.

It is impossible to pull out or pull out the plant - it can pull the still weak roots of the remaining seedling along with it and damage them. The easiest way is to carefully pinch or cut it off at ground level, the rest will gradually decompose without harm to the second plant. Now the seedling will be spacious and get a lot of nutrients.

What to do if the seedlings of cucumbers stretched out?

Elongated pale seedlings are a common case when growing at home. To prevent this from happening, you need to change two modes of growing seedlings of cucumbers - temperature and light. side and top mirrors that will reflect sunlight onto the seedlings.

Sometimes it is enough to place cups with cucumbers away from each other, especially if they already have large enough leaves that shade each other. If the seedlings are very stretched out, they can be helped when planting in the ground. Such a plant is carefully and carefully buried to the cotyledons or gradually sprinkled with warm and loose earth.

The main condition for a good survival rate of elongated seedlings is planting it in well-warmed, not waterlogged soil. If it was necessary to plant in cold soil, the ground around such a plant is covered with a dark perforated film, which accumulates solar heat and evaporates excess moisture.

In this case, the part of the stem buried in the ground will not rot, but will give additional roots and support the weak, elongated seedlings. After a while, it will be the same strong and green plant as all the others. Cucumber seedlings begin to bloom very quickly, even the first buds are already forming in cups.

This does not adversely affect the quality of the strong healthy seedling, but it can take away even small strength from a weakened one. For such seedlings, it would be better to remove the first flowers and give the plant the opportunity to take root well in the ground, improve health and form a strong bush. This plant will start fruiting a little later than the others, but will quickly make up for lost time and catch up in yield with the rest of the seedlings.

Planted with buds or flowers, weak or elongated seedlings will be sick for a long time, can shed buds and even ovaries, and as a result will give much less fruit. Cucumber seedlings planted in open ground or in a greenhouse are much more demanding on air humidity than other crops, but not at all tolerates if even a drop of water remains on the leaves overnight. In this case, the seedlings quickly fall ill with powdery mildew, which can kill an entire plantation or the "population" of the greenhouse. Therefore, cucumbers are watered in the morning with warm water, trying not to leave the leaves wet until the evening. If necessary, the plants are sprayed, but so that they have time to dry out by night. Cucumbers are one of the most grateful garden crops, which, with minimal care and attention, will thank their owners with a plentiful and tasty harvest.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers - video

Cucumbers grown in the country are fragrant and healthy. They differ significantly in taste from vegetables bought in the supermarket. But growing healthy cucumbers is not so easy, the plant is prone to many diseases.

Often summer residents are faced with the problem that the leaves of cucumber seedlings turn yellow. The problem begins when the second true leaf appears. The second leaves grow, and the first begin to change pigmentation.

Moreover, the matter may not be at all in the substrate in which the seedlings are planted. So why do cucumbers get sick at an early stage of development?

Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow?

There can be several reasons for burning leaves, the main ones include:

1. Lack of potassium, nitrogen, sulfur, calcium, manganese in the soil. An imbalance of nitrogen and potassium, the correct ratio of elements is 1 to 2. An excess of nitrogen affects the pigmentation of foliage and can lead to ammonia poisoning. Insufficient watering affects the yellowing of seedlings in the same way as severe waterlogging. Temperature changes. If the temperature in the root zone drops below 17 degrees, then the plant is not able to take micro and macro elements from the soil. At this temperature, even if all useful elements are in the soil, they do not enter the stem. Toxin poisoning. Some farmers put seedlings on foam boards. Yellowing can be caused by poisoning with chemical compounds that the insulating layer releases, since the roots of the plant are in contact with it. Fertilizer, falling on the foam, can lead to the release harmful substances, which is dangerous not only for seedlings, but also for crops. Seedlings can be crowded in a peat cup, so many summer residents immediately sow seeds in the ground. Roots need space and good nutrition. Yellowing of the leaves may indicate that it is time to repot the plant. Lack of light.

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Cucumber leaves turn yellow: what to do?

• Balance the doses of fertilizers, do not exceed the ammonia content in the solution. With a lack of nitrogen, you need to fertilize the plant with Vermistim or Azogran. If a foam substrate is used, then lay it on top with a film. If the seedlings grow on the balcony, then you can use backlighting.
• Do not forget to monitor the microclimate. Cucumbers love water, so don't skimp on watering. However, remember that the plant should be watered only with warm water, street temperature. If you water the plant with cold water, diseases cannot be avoided. At the seedling stage, the plant is especially sensitive to a lack of potassium, if you do not follow the development, cucumbers will grow irregularly. The best solution for seedlings of cucumbers is a nutrient solution based on complex fertilizers. For example, Kemira Hydro.

But the leaves of cucumbers turn yellow along the edges, not only in seedlings, but also in an adult plant. This may be due to the fact that the plant is fully ripe. If the temperature is high in summer, and cucumbers are poorly watered, then yellowing is a natural process.

Cucumbers, like all plants of the gourd family, are very demanding on growing conditions. A slight weakening of attention leads to illness and, possibly, death. But difficulties are there to be overcome. It is quite possible to grow a full-fledged seedling of cucumbers.

The most acceptable conditions for cucumber seedlings

Ideal conditions for the growth of cucumber seedlings will be conditions with an optimally balanced combination of lighting, temperature, humidity and nutrition.

Video: growing seedlings of cucumbers

To get a decent harvest, it is necessary to provide seedlings with the following conditions:

• daylight hours - at least 10 hours, daylight and illumination with lamps (do not illuminate at night);
• daytime temperature within 22–24 0 С, nighttime - 15–17 0 С;
• abundant watering - once a week with settled water with a temperature of 24–26 0 С;
• carrying out two dressings - 2 weeks after germination (1 teaspoon of urea per 3 liters of water) and a week after the first (1 teaspoon of nitrophoska per 3 liters of water).

Causes of death of seedlings of cucumbers

In the process of growth, seedlings can be affected by a large number of various diseases and pests. Troubles can await young cucumbers both when grown on a windowsill and in a greenhouse. The most common misfortunes are the following.

Table: diseases and pests of seedlings

Diagnosis of seedling diseases

Having noticed the deterioration in the condition of the seedlings, the first step is to determine what exactly caused it and only after that proceed to eliminate the causes. After carefully studying the symptoms, decide on further actions: change the growing conditions, treat the disease, or start pest control.

Table: how to determine the cause of the poor condition of seedlings

Symptoms of the disease	Possible causes of the disease
	Mistakes in care	Disease	Pest
Sticky spots appear on the leaves, on which sooty mushrooms grow, the greens turn black and dry.	-	-	greenhouse whitefly
Shoots, flowers, ovaries and leaves wrinkle and curl	-	-	melon aphid
Gradually increasing oily spots appear on the leaves Green colour. They turn brown and dry out quickly.	-	-
A spreading white coating appears on the leaves. The leaves dry up and the plant dies	-	-
The color of the leaves and trunk changes	Deficiency or excess of minerals	-	-
The leaves have become stiff, the top has dried up	Excess fertilizer	-	-
In sunny weather, the leaves wither, the basal part of the stem turned yellow, has cracks.	-	-
Decaying gray spots appear on the stems near the branches.	-	-
Dry edges of leaves	Increased or low temperature air	-	-
Plants wither, translucent larvae are found on the roots	-	-	cucumber mosquito
There are gnawed leaves, stripes of dried mucus are visible on the soil	-	-	Slugs
The main stem is unnaturally distorted and dries out	-	-	wireworm
Small spots appear on the leaves, the lower surface is covered with a thin cobweb.	-	-	spider mite
Yellow edges of leaves	Insufficient lighting, excessive watering	-	-
Plants lie on the soil, the stalk near the root is bitten	-	-	Medvedka
Cucumber ovaries turn yellow or rot	-	-
Appear on leaves and stems yellow spots, becoming further gray	-	-
A white coating forms on the plant, in the places of its occurrence, the tissues rot	-	-
Seedling not growing	Late transplant in open ground	-	-
An olive coating appears on the plant, these places dry out and break	-	-
The stem at the root becomes thinner and rots, the plant dies	-	Blackleg	-
Angular spots appear yellow color then they turn brown and dry	-	-	thrips
The appearance of swellings and thickenings on the roots, the plant does not develop	-	-	gall nematode

Do not confuse the cause of the disease with the disease itself. For example: the cause of the black leg may be increased soil moisture, but the plant does not die from moisture, but from the disease.

Cucumber disease control

Timely detection of the disease is 50% of success in their treatment, but some more effort is required to consolidate it.

Table: treatment and prevention

Disease	Treatment	Prevention
Stop watering and fertilizing, spray with the drug Oksihom (according to instructions), ventilate the room or greenhouse Can be sprayed with a solution of three liters of whey, one teaspoon of copper sulfate diluted in seven liters of water	Observe crop rotation. Water only warm (+22–24 0 C), avoid sudden temperature changes, exclude the appearance of condensation on film shelters
Spray with Topaz or Zaslon (according to instructions). Or pollinate with finely ground sulfur, cover with a film for 2 hours	Observe crop rotation. Pour with warm water, do not allow temperature drops
Rake the earth from the trunk and sprinkle wood ash, chalk or crushed coal on the affected areas.	Do not hill seedlings, do not deepen the stem when transplanting, avoid sudden changes in temperature
Spray with Topaz or Zaslon (according to instructions). Or mix 1 cup of wood ash with 1 teaspoon of blue vitriol and dust with the plant mixture.	Avoid thickening of plants, water with heated water, ensure ventilation of the premises
Remove the infected parts of the plant, cover the sections with crushed charcoal.	Avoid overcrowding of plants, ensure ventilation, and prevent an increase in air humidity.
Treat with 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water)	Avoid increasing air and soil moisture.
Spray with Saprol or Vincit (according to instructions).	Do not allow an increase in air humidity, do not allow plants to thicken
Spray with Fundazol (30 g per 10 liters of water).	Do not increase the humidity of the air, do not allow the temperature to drop
Blackleg	Pour 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water), sprinkle wood ash under the plants	Do not allow plants to thicken, do not allow soil moisture to increase

Photo gallery: diseases of cucumber seedlings

White rot is an unpleasant disease of cucumber seedlings, which is difficult to fight.
Root rot can destroy the entire crop
Downy mildew is the most common disease of cucumber seedlings and adult plants.
Powdery mildew on cucumber leaves
Gray rot in a greenhouse
Ascochitosis often occurs when plants are thickened
Plants suffering from excessive humidity of air and soil are susceptible to bacteriosis.
Cladosporiosis affects seedlings and mainly adult plants.
It is extremely difficult to fight the black leg

Pests of cucumber seedlings

In addition to diseases, various harmful insects can damage cucumber seedlings. They appear both when grown in a greenhouse and indoors.

Table: ways to deal with harmful insects

Pest	Fighting methods	Prevention
greenhouse whitefly	Spray with Actelik or Rovikurt (according to instructions)	Prefers high temperature and humidity. Hang yellow and blue glue traps for prevention
melon aphid	Before planting, treat the soil with Karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water), upon detection - treat seedlings (40 g per 10 liters of water)	Prevent weeds from appearing, move ant nests outside the greenhouse
cucumber mosquito	Spray with Aktara or BI-58 (according to instructions)	Carry out thermal disinfection of the soil, hang yellow glue traps
wireworm	Pour the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water)	Carry out winter digging of the earth and cleaning of plant residues in the greenhouse
spider mite	Spray with Actelik or Aktofit (according to instructions)	Before planting, disinfect the greenhouse with bleach or sulfur bombs.
gall nematode	Pour the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water), but it will be more efficient to replace the soil in the greenhouse	Carry out winter digging of the earth, in the spring before planting - thermal disinfection of the soil
Slugs	Dusting plants with tobacco dust, wood ash, scatter superphosphate or potassium salt over the garden (300 g per 10 m 2)	Carry out winter digging of the earth with the addition of fallen needles
Medvedka	Pour pesticides into minks (Rembek, Medvedoks)	Set traps - a jar of liquid is dug flush with the ground
thrips	Treatment with drugs based on thiamethoxam (Aktara, Cruiser, etc.)	Carry out winter digging of the earth, disinfect the earth with a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water)