How often should potatoes be watered after flowering? Potato care (hilling, watering, top dressing). When and how often to moisturize

Growing potatoes is a whole science, and not boring and monotonous, but interesting and very exciting. Avid gardeners know that there is a certain lunar day for this, that the harvest largely depends on folk signs that even the mood during the planting of tubers in the ground matters ....

What about watering? Previously, no one cared about this issue. Top dressing, protection from pests and diseases - yes, and moisture has always been considered to be more than enough natural. Experience recent years shows that this is a huge mistake and that by maintaining the required soil moisture, it is possible to significantly increase the yield of potatoes and their quality characteristics.

Terms of watering potatoes after planting in the ground

Few people know, but potatoes are very demanding on soil moisture, but everything is not as simple as it seems. The need for water varies depending on the stage of plant development. The most important is considered from the formation of buds to the cessation of the development of tops. Indeed, the harvest is laid in this period, but others are no less important.

Watering before the appearance of sprouts can not be carried out. Planting material has more than enough moisture in the soil, especially since the holes are usually pre-moistened. But after moisturizing the beds and irrigating the tops is very important.

Watering during the emergence and growth of tubers

Let's start with the fact that for the full development of potatoes, the proportions of watering are 1: 400-600.

That is, one part of the dry component accounts for 400 parts of water for a young plant and 600 during the period of active growth. Quite a lot, right? Moreover, this calculation concerns middle lane. If the region is southern, hot and dry, then add another third to the indicated amount.

It is embarrassing that potato tops, even in drought, very rarely lose their color and juiciness of leaves. This is explained by the fact that with a lack of moisture, the plant throws all its forces precisely on the development of the aerial part, but at the same time the underground part suffers very much. So the gardeners are surprised - why, with lush greenery, such a meager harvest is obtained. And just something watering had to be sufficient to provide.

How to water during and after flowering

The specified proportion is maintained during the entire growing season. Only there is a difference in the rules for entering. During flowering, it is strictly forbidden to water the tops. Unless the air is too dry, but then a little spraying is allowed and only after sunset.

It is important!!! Experienced gardeners It is advised not to moisten the sprouts themselves, but the air around them. Those. water with a spray gun should be sprayed only up and to the sides. This will create the necessary humidity and avoid excessive water on the leaves. This method of watering is also called "artificial dew".

Watering in hot weather

The heat on the street in regions with average climatic conditions falls during the active formation of fruits. Therefore, watering must be provided regularly and in the required volume. You can check whether your plantings need additional moisture by conducting a simple experiment. It is necessary to dig the soil 5 centimeters deep and look at its condition. If the soil is dry, then watering is needed and very plentiful (at least 3-5 liters of water for each bush), but if the crust is on top, and the soil is moist enough a little deeper, then there is enough moisture and no need to water. In this case, loosening is recommended. It allows the soil to breathe and moisture, too, sufficient access to the fruits helps to carry out.

Loosening is often also called “dry watering”.

Watering early ripe potato varieties

Early potatoes need less watering. Basically, after all, the drought falls on July-August. Conversely, root crops can suffer from too much moisture and come out watery and tasteless.

To avoid this, it is necessary to check how moist the soil is (digging by 5-6 cm), loosen regularly, and in case of heavy rainfall, use special material for shelter.

How to make comfortable conditions for potatoes

One of the most common mistakes is watering in the afternoon or early morning. It should be carried out only after sunset, so that the moisture is absorbed and beneficial, and not just evaporated.

Leaves should not be touched. If the droplets do not have time to dry, it may occur sunburn, which often causes not only diseases, but even death of plants.

On average, 3 liters of water are poured under one bush. But a lot depends on the soil. So, peat and loamy absorb moisture worse, so the volume can be reduced. But sandy and subsandy may require more.

The most correct thing is to water under the root. But since this requires quite a lot of time, watering is often carried out along the grooves between the beds.

It is very important that the impregnation occurs to a depth of 15-20 cm. The surface moisture does not matter for the formation of fruits. For uniform absorption of water, watering is best done in parts. Those. if you use a watering can, do not immediately pour out all the water, do it gradually. The drip irrigation system has proven itself very well. If possible, use it. Although she also has a drawback. It is impossible to determine how much water the plant has received. And an excess of moisture for potatoes is even worse than its deficiency.

Advice! To keep the water longer in the soil, water the beds in the evening, and loosen in the morning.

It is very important that the water temperature does not differ from the air temperature. Many gardeners use large barrels, which are filled with water early in the morning, and used in the evening, after it has warmed up.

On average, potatoes are watered once a week. During budding and flowering, attention to plants is increased and the procedure is carried out every two to three days. 2 weeks before harvest, the need for watering disappears. But these are the basic rules. Everything is individual and depends both on the characteristics of the climate and on the type of soil.

Factors of improper watering potatoes

An important factor in obtaining a good potato crop is sufficient watering. If there is little moisture, it’s bad, but an overabundance should not be allowed. The need for additional water can be determined by the following signs:

Signs of excess moisture are:

• drooping leaves;
• darkening of the stem and leaves;
• spots white plaque;
• decay;
• fungal diseases.

You can understand whether potatoes need watering by sticking your hand into the ground by 7-10 centimeters. If it is covered with dry dust, then the time has come.

Taking into account the fact that potatoes are characterized by variable drought tolerance, watering is most important for them in the 2nd half of the growing season, especially with the onset of the flowering phase. On the territory of Russia, this particular period is accompanied by heavy rainfall.

Therefore, there is no need for watering potatoes in July-August. However, nevertheless, in some years, soil drought can be observed, which quite often occurs in the first half of August. It is supplemented by an increase in air temperature, resulting in wilting of the tops.

When watering, one bush should have 3-4 liters of water. It is usually carried out in several steps. This is necessary for better absorption of moisture, it should reach a depth of up to 20 cm.

How to water potatoes

Follow the watering rate. If the watering of the potatoes was insufficient, then this can lead to the death of the stolons. This can result in a minimum number of tubers per bush. Is it necessary to water the potatoes at the beginning of the growing season, when this crop is highly drought-resistant?

If this is possible, then it is necessary to water. With a lack of moisture, the plant is in an extreme state. This is manifested in his weak development.

A plant that has been weakened by drought, of course, cannot show good productivity in the future, even with heavy rainfall in July-August. Before germination, there is no point in watering potatoes. If large tubers were used for planting and there was no gap between plowing or planting, then the plant will sprout due to the moisture contained in the tuber itself and the soil.

The need for watering arises a few days after the first shoots have appeared. 2-3 liters per bush is the norm for one bush. To minimize moisture loss, it is desirable to water in two doses.

For watering use ordinary buckets, watering cans. You can also irrigate using a water supply system with hoses. If there is no precipitation in the second half of June, which happens quite often in most regions of our country, then it is necessary to carry out another irrigation in the third decade of the month with the same rate. Thus, in June there should be two waterings of potatoes were carried out - in the middle and end of June.

In August, the number of waterings should range from one to two. It all depends on the rainfall during this period. On average, the total watering rate per plant should be 10-15 liters of water. It makes no sense to water potato plantings after September 1st.

Watering potatoes is stopped a couple of weeks before harvesting potato plantations. If potatoes are grown on arable land, then watering is difficult. It is carried out only in some cases.

If areas with potato plantings are located on an irrigated field, then it can be watered using a sprinkler system. Another option for organizing irrigation is the use of a water truck.

When choosing this option for organizing irrigation, it is necessary to take into account the economic component. After spending one good watering around June 20-25, when the plants have usually reached a height of 15-20 cm, a 25-30% increase in yield can be achieved.

A large increase can be achieved if this event is held on dry August days. In the event that your costs are higher than the increase in yield, then it is unprofitable from an economic point of view.

To verify this, you can conduct an experiment on your site. Those potato growers who do not have the opportunity to irrigate potato plantings on their site can follow the rule: moisture in the soil must be preserved using moisture-saving agricultural practices. For moisture, its preservation on the site must be fought in the truest sense of the word.

potato, care, watering June 10, 2014, 23:35 I have read about the fact that potatoes, like all garden crops, require watering, but I have never watered it myself.

I have this vegetable (as far as one could judge from its appearance and harvest) did not suffer from thirst, but with water we have old dacha it was not too easy - you can’t run into a potato with a watering can. And I lived in the belief that watering potatoes is an agrotechnical "refinement", without which it is quite possible to do.

But last year's experience forced me to return to this issue ...

What Science Tells Us...

And she tells us: potatoes are extremely demanding on soil moisture, and their needs vary depending on the phase of development.

The most important period is from the moment the buds appear until the tops stop growing. It is at this time that the crop is laid, and if there is not enough moisture, then there will be few tubers.

It turns out that for the formation of potatoes for one part of dry matter (by weight), the plant needs to spend 400-600 parts of water! And this is in the central regions - in the southern, hot and dry, the consumption is even higher. And one plant evaporates about 60-70 liters of water per season, can you imagine?!

So water it or not?

The answer to this question depends on a combination of many factors - climatic (air and soil temperature, rainfall, humidity), soil (composition and structure of the soil, its ability to retain moisture) and biological (primarily - characteristics of the variety).

A favorable combination of conditions allowed me to do without watering at all for many years. Loamy soil retains moisture well; Our climate is temperate, rains are not uncommon, and the heat does not happen often and usually does not linger for a long time.

Zoned varieties in such conditions may well do without watering - it is successfully replaced by loosening and hilling. By the way, loosening is often called "dry watering".

If the climate in your area is humid, it is better to replace watering the potatoes with loosening - the benefits will be much greater: moisture is retained in the soil, and the air supply to the roots improves, and the plant gets enough of everything it needs for development. But on sandy soils, and even in hot, dry weather, you can’t see the crop without watering.

I made sure of this last year on my own. bad experience. As usual, potatoes were planted in several stages - from the beginning of May until the beginning of June.

This method has never let me down - all the potatoes ripened in due time, and the harvest from early and late plantings did not differ. But not this time… June potatoes got into the soil, from which the spring moisture had already left.

There was little rain, and the weather was warm, and despite the fact that germinated tubers were planted, as always, shoots did not appear for more than a month! Then the tops began to grow, the bushes bloomed, but ... When it came time to dig potatoes, all that remained was to shed a tear: there was practically no harvest from the ridges of late planting, and I learned a good lesson: you should not blindly rely on your own experience if conditions have changed ...

So it turns out that there is simply no universal answer to the question of whether potatoes should be watered, common to all. Some need it, others don’t need it, and still others shouldn’t do it at all - the solution to the problem must be sought based on local conditions.

And here's what else is important: soil moisture should be uniform. Like many other crops (for example, tomatoes or cabbage), potatoes are sensitive to sudden changes in humidity: if heavy rains come to replace a drought, we are very likely to get a crop of deformed, ugly tubers.

Therefore, if you notice that the shoots are drooping, the leaves are curling or withering, and the soil has dried out to a depth of 5-6 cm or more, you need to water it exactly.

How to water potatoes

Generally speaking, how many people - so many opinions in this matter)) And probably this is right: practice allows you to find those methods and norms that are right for you and your plants.

But since for the first time you still need to start from something, I will give general recommendations watering. The best watering time- evening hours.

It is clear that no one waters in the heat of the day, but the morning is not the most good option: moisture on the leaves may not dry out before the sun starts to bake, and burns appear. Minimum water consumption- 3 liters per bush.

The actual consumption will depend on the soil (sandy and sandy loam absorb more water than loam or peat soil), the degree of its drying, the plant variety and its age. Regarding how to water, there are different opinions: acceptable and watering under the root, And furrow irrigation.

In the dry season, irrigation of plantings is also effective (this is especially true early varieties potatoes). The next day after watering, it is recommended to loosen the ground to retain moisture in it.

That, in general, is all ... But it would be very interesting to know the opinions of our gardeners: do you water potatoes? If yes, how often, what techniques do you use? If not, why not?

How to water the beds in the summer cottage in the heat

How to water the beds in the heat Proper watering can double the yield of the beds. Photo: Svetlana Jafarova

Without water, as you know, nowhere, especially plants from your garden. It is very important to keep the water balance right now, when many plants are forming fruits.

And nature today is not very generous with rains, and it is extremely difficult for the inhabitants of gardens and orchards to survive the second dry summer in a row. They just need help, otherwise you won’t have to count on a high yield.

10 rules for watering garden crops

1 Most plants do not like watering over the leaves, this leads to the spread of fungal diseases, so water under the root. If the soil is very dry, it must first be sprinkled with water a little, and only when the first moisture is absorbed, water it abundantly so that the water reaches the roots.

At the same time, there should be no puddles on the surface.2 In hot weather, it is necessary to water more often, preferably in the evenings. Or early in the morning, so that the moisture has time to soak in before the summer sun and wind evaporate it.

During the day, in sunny weather, it is better not to water - drops on the leaves can create a lens effect: collect Sun rays bundle and cause burns. In addition, it is not very useful for people to work in the midday heat in the sun.3 When it gets cold, it is worth watering in the morning or in the middle of the day.

Excessive evening watering will not allow moisture to be absorbed into the soil, and excessive dampness can cause the spread of fungal diseases.4 Plants should not be watered in small doses, since water evaporates from the soil surface before reaching the root system. Water better less often, but more abundantly.

Weak moisture, if only the surface of the soil is wetted, and the roots remain dry, is useless: only weeds will feel it. With a lack of moisture, especially during the heat, plants do not absorb nutrients well, grow slowly, and fruit ovaries fall off.

Keep in mind that intermittent rain is not at all a reason to postpone watering: most often it only slightly wets the soil without saturating it with moisture.5 But waterlogging is no less harmful. Remember that plants die more often from overwatering than from underwatering.

Excessive watering leads to erosion of the soil, an increase in its acidity, on highly moistened soil, the roots rot, they are deprived of oxygen and lose their ability to deliver water and nutrients to the top. Dampness creates ideal conditions for the spread and development of diseases.6 Seeds and seedlings require topsoil moisture, while established plants need deep moisture to promote good root development.

The more massive and longer the roots of the culture, the more abundantly it "drinks". 7 A few hours after watering, be sure to loosen it to maintain moisture in the soil and access to oxygen. Better yet, mulch the soil around the plants with humus, compost, grass clippings, straw, etc.

If it is hot, you can sprinkle sawdust and peat on top of the ground with a layer of 3-5 cm, this will also prevent water from evaporating. When watering and loosening the soil, roots should not be exposed and root hairs should not be torn. 8 The water temperature during irrigation should be 18-25 degrees.

Plants love it when they are watered with water that has settled in a container, heated in the sun. The containers should preferably be black - in them the water heats up faster and is well saturated with oxygen in the evening.

From cold water young roots die off quickly. 9 Pond, river, lake and, of course, rain are suitable for irrigation. The main thing is that the water for irrigation should be chemically clean (without impurities of salts and chlorine).

Hard water should preferably be softened with special additives.10 Consideration should be given to the quality of the soil. On heavy clay or heavy loamy soils, water should be rare, but plentiful, and a couple of times in a row so that the water goes deep.

Such soils are saturated with water slowly, but they "keep" it for a long time. And sandy, on the contrary, require frequent, but less plentiful watering.

Water cabbage and fussy tomato

Of all garden crops, cabbage is the most moisture-loving, and of all kinds. This culture prefers cool water, early varieties need to be watered once a week (although it is better after 3-4 days), but always plentifully: the soil should be moistened to a depth of 40 cm.

It is better to combine furrow irrigation with sprinkling. Late varieties have a stronger root system than early maturing and colored varieties, so they respond more easily to drying out of the soil. But for them, abundant regular (every 10 days) watering is required.

You can water all types of cabbage directly on the leaves. Lack of moisture during ripening leads to cracking of heads, but stagnant water is harmful, especially on heavy soils.

It leads to the death of the roots of cabbage and its death. Frequent watering is also necessary for radishes and radishes, lettuce, perennial vegetables(sorrel, rhubarb, perennial onions), herbs (spinach, dill, celery, green onions). Cucumber is also demanding on moisture, but at first water it not too generously, but do not spare water during flowering and fruiting. In drought, the cucumber sheds flowers and ovaries, and the fruits are ugly.

Water cucumbers in the evening or early morning and be sure to warm water- not lower than 22 degrees. If there is no way to heat the water, then it is better to water it during the day, so that the earth has time to warm up before sunset. On hot and dry days, when cucumbers are dropping leaves, it is useful to take a cool refreshing shower at 15-17 hours.

Cucumbers (as well as zucchini and squash) are preferably watered along the furrows and aisles. Tomatoes in the early stages of development require almost no watering. But with the appearance of ovaries and the beginning of fruit growth, the need for moisture, like that of a cucumber, increases, with a lack of it, the tomatoes crack. They say about tomatoes that they love a dry head, but wet feet.

Therefore, firstly, you need to water them only under the root (in no case - along the leaves!), Trying to concentrate moisture in depth, and leave the top layer dry. This can be achieved by obligatory loosening after watering.

If you water the tomatoes from above and too abundantly, the risk of infection with late blight and other diseases increases. Tomatoes love a morning watering place, and evening watering, and even warm water, is harmful to them: after passing through the earth heated during the day, the water comes to the roots almost with boiling water.

As a result, tomatoes cease to bear fruit. Cucumbers, tomatoes, as well as garlic, eggplant, peppers love water, but they use it sparingly, they will wait until you arrive at the dacha on the next day off. Beets, carrots, zucchini, potatoes should be watered even less often. beans, rhubarb, asparagus - they do not tolerate waterlogging. The most drought-resistant crops are watermelon, melon, pumpkin. They should be watered rarely, but with plenty of water. Young fruit trees it is better to water throughout the summer with an interval of 7-10 days.

Fruiting trees are watered at the beginning of flowering, 1-2 weeks after flowering (during the natural fall of the excess ovary) and 1.5-2 weeks before fruit picking. The highest demands on moisture are made by apricot, peach, apple tree. The pear is less demanding, the cherries, sweet cherries, and plums need even less water.

• Do not water the beds with a strong stream of water - it can erode the soil, expose the roots of plants and deform the leaves. When excessive moisture lasts for a long time, you should dig grooves from the plants or deepen furrows to drain excess water. and then water it abundantly, then the fruits grow quickly, but crack. If you are away from the site for a long time, try installing a wick irrigation system there, as for indoor plants. Place water containers at both ends of the beds. Between them is laid a wick of fabric (preferably dense), which goes deep into the ground. Thus, the soil is constantly moistened. You can organize constant watering in this way: pierce plastic one and a half or two liter bottles with an awl in the middle part, and leave 7-8 cm of the lower part intact and bury them in the soil, but not completely, and it is better to tie the neck twine, so that in the fall they can be easily pulled out of the ground. Or you can use another method. Dig the bottles into the garden at a distance of 70-80 cm from each other with the neck down. At the bottom - make holes. Fill the bottles with water - it gradually moistens the soil, and at a depth.More interesting way watering - a hose that is pierced along the entire length. Then the hose is buried in the bed. Connect it to a faucet and watering is guaranteed. Irrigation occurs exactly under the root of the plant. Accordingly, the ground within a radius of 10 cm from each dropper remains dry. And this helps to reduce the growth of weeds and grass. And walking paths don't get wet! Various tinctures can be made in a barrel: from nettle, onion peel, banana scales, etc., recipes can be very diverse. Many plants like such infusions.

Humidity test

To water or not to water? To answer this question, test the soil... with your finger. Submerge it several times in the ground around the plant.

The top layer (2-3 cm) can be dry, but everything below should be wet. You can also apply " mechanical way", digging a bed on a shovel bayonet. If the soil is a solid sticky lump, then it contains excess moisture, slightly sticks to the shovel and can be squeezed into a lump by hand - the humidity is optimal. When the soil does not stick to the shovel at all, and the lump crumbles, turning into powder, this means that it is urgent to water. Keep in mind that with a lack of moisture, plant leaves behave differently:

• in cabbage they are covered with a white-bluish bloom, their edges are bent; in a tomato they become dark green in color; in carrots and cucumbers they curl slightly, darken; in beets they become smaller, become burgundy-purple in color; onion arrows look bluish-white.

The role of moisture in the potato crop.

Potatoes in the field and watering things in the view are rarely combined, but there are times when it is clear to every gardener-potato grower that it would be necessary to water the plantings, BUT, it’s not customary for us to water potatoes, then our hands don’t reach, then the plot is quite far from the well (not buy 100 meters of hoses for one-time irrigation). Many people rely on the fact that the rain will still pass and will not allow the potato harvest to decrease.

But everyone wants a good harvest, doesn't it... Of course, for those who plant fields of 50-100 hectares, running around the field with a watering can or a hose is unlikely to help. But, if you are the owner of landings potatoes an area of ​​one or two acres, watering will not be so problematic, and the increase in yield is very significant and quite pleasant.

How do you know if potatoes need watering?

In general, potatoes need moisture, just as the potato grower needs it. I went to drink some water in hot weather, remember about potatoes. He also needs moisture in the heat less than a person. Other vegetables get moisture in any case, as they say, but potatoes?

Of course, when heavy rains come by themselves, there is no need to water, but when three weeks at the beginning of the season not a drop has fallen and there is a sweltering heat, shed a good area with potatoes just necessary. Closing after watering and hilling the ground with a good layer of mulch would be a good tone. This will lay a good future harvest in more than early planting and early spring and all kinds of fertilizers.

How do you know when to water?

I use a fairly simple method of determining the need for watering - I take a shovel in my hands, go to a potato plot, dig a hole as deep as a shovel bayonet and begin to check the soil for moisture with my hands. If the soil is hard and crumbles badly, watering is simply vital.

At the end of the growing season in the month of September (we) should not be watered either, I can carry out the last watering if necessary and weather conditions in mid-August. You can develop some of your own rules for determining the need watering potatoes and determination of soil moisture.

You can even keep a record of the precipitation for the season, but even I don’t want to go that far. In terms of watering, I really like to grow potatoes in the beds of boxes, because you don’t need to water, somehow everything works out by itself.

The main rule for watering potatoes is to water abundantly, but not often, the earth should be well saturated with moisture. Let's fix it - by correctly determining the need for irrigation of potatoes and satisfying this need in time, we get a more weighty, pleasing to the eye and an excellent crop in all respects potatoes everyone is envious, regardless of the potato variety grown, whether it is a “forty-day plant”, even a “fog lamp”.

Do you want a lot and large potatoes? Water regularly!

If with watering potatoes in the first three or four weeks of its growth and development, many will agree, then with regular watering (if necessary) throughout the growing season, there are already fewer people who agree, but in vain. By creating the right moisture regime from the very beginning of growth to flowering, and after flowering to digging, we program our potato plantings for the most desirable maximum yield, which, when digging, brings great joy to potato growers digging potatoes.

But, one more important thing must be learned - watering should not interfere with air access to the roots and tubers. In other words, it is important not to overdo it, otherwise, instead of joy, there will be opposite emotions and a waste of time and effort. The bed is a godsend for a "lazy" potato grower. Click on the image and you can learn more about the bed - the box.

Insufficient moisture is the reason for the growth of tubers.

Curves, with growths of tubers growing from tubers of stolons - all this is called tuber growth. The tubers begin to lose their shape tending to a voluminous oval due to the fact that with a lack of moisture in the soil, the potato plant stops developing and prepares for overwintering.

And then it’s raining on your head, the potatoes wake up and begin to intensively grow tubers again, from such a sharp arrival of new portions for storage, the tubers begin to grow unevenly and as a result, cones, humps and so on appear. And sometimes apical buds (eyes) begin to develop and the stolon can even come to the surface.

Sometimes crooked tubers are associated with hard soil, I don't know, but my crooked tubers were obtained solely from moisture interruptions. A slight overgrowth of tubers does not sadden me at all, but it happens that up to twenty percent of the crop is krivulki, this made me deal with the overgrowth of tubers in potatoes.

Now, for clarity, let's see the photos ... Overgrown tubers on the sides. At one, the top began to grow, the one that was generally covered with cones on the right, and even the eyes began to grow, a full set of tuber growth. Potato tubers grew minimally.

The top two began their growth from the top eye, acquired a slightly pointed shape. Potato growth. Well, what for such a crop is needed?

How to water less often without harming the potato crop?

Saving effort and money during irrigation is achieved by maintaining natural moisture soils. I figured out the irrigation, they are needed and they have a good effect, with proper and timely moistening, on the growth and accumulation of potato crops.

But watering can be done quite rarely if you save a little the already existing moisture in the soil. There is no need to brush aside what is already in the ground, because this moisture can and should be saved, which saves one's strength and money, and the most valuable thing is nerves. (You stand, the mosquitoes bite you, the midge digs in.) Loosening the soil leads to saving moisture, but not immediately after watering and mulching.

Want to water less - Loosen and spud after rain or watering, and of course, if there is a desire and opportunity mulch, but only with necessarily dry mulching materials, later they themselves will be saturated with moisture and begin their work for the benefit of our harvest. This way you can save a lot of moisture for potatoes. Weeded, watered well and the next day spudded, mulched.

Resting..?! But freshly cut grass is not used as mulch. All this retains the moisture in the soil and reduces the amount of water for the next irrigation.

If everything is organized correctly, it turns out that standing with a hose in the middle of a potato plot is often not required, and the result will be just excellent. And finally, the main idea of this post - Lack of moisture will not destroy potatoes, but the crop and its quality will be reduced to the very minimum of the minimum. Is this what we wanted when planting potatoes?

Not everyone who plants potatoes has good yields, watering and preserving natural moisture will give a much greater increase in yield than the use of newfangled varieties and fertilizers. Also, the process of potato degeneration will go much slower.

By the way - About how to calculate the potato harvest?

This subpost is dedicated to a fair calculation of the potato harvest, there were times when I could not achieve a more or less weighty potato crop with acceptable quality indicators due to poor land productivity on the site. Having learned from the former owners how and with what they fertilized this site, but they did not fertilize it at all for decades.

I began to improve the agricultural background, so to speak, and harvests began to happen ... This is where the question began to worry me - How many kilograms potatoes I get from a hundred on average? I reviewed the entire YouTube and stuff, re-read almost all the original articles on the Internet and books on the topic of potatoes in the library, which made me think - Is it fair to count your crop like this potatoes? And how should I calculate it?

How to calculate your potato crop.

There are many methods for calculating the yield of potatoes, but the answer to the question of the quantitative yield remains a flimsy letter for many potato growers. And it all comes down to a very simple - Enough or not enough potatoes?

The harvest can be considered in bags, buckets and similar methods (But bags and buckets are very different, one gardener has a bucket of 10 liters, another 15), but the yield of this crop is usually considered in kilograms. How many kg per square meter has grown multiplied by one hundred.

There is another way - the crop of the bush is multiplied by 500 and the average yield is obtained. If you follow these methods, then my 2014 harvest will stretch for 700-800 kilograms per hundred square meters. Well, in fact, an amount equal to 200 kilorams per hundredth is laid down for storage. Do we do subscriptions?

To whom do we attribute? Why do we attribute? There is another method, it is called the multiplication factor. planted a bucket potatoes I dug out ten, it turns out 1 to 10, and so on ... There are quite a few years and sections when this very coefficient is not at all cheerful 1 to 2, for example.

And so, further about the calculations of productivity. For this year, if you take my 200 kg per hundredth in the form of a multiplication factor, you get 1 to 15-17, it turns out beautifully in terms of volume, but in kilograms it’s still the same two centners. Yes, and planting can be carried out one by one, or two, and more, more potato can be cut in half and so on and so on...

How to count more correctly, more honestly.

count harvest potatoes of course, it will be more correct in fact, that is, how many kilograms of net weight are stored and seeds in the cellar, so much is the harvest. It may be more pleasant for collective farms and farmers to overestimate the indicators at the suggestion of agronomists, but who am I deceiving in my case?

Himself? Neighbor? Yes, if it’s a neighbor, then it’s okay, it’ll work ... If, like me, you prefer to look at growing potatoes without unnecessary illusions and treat this matter responsibly, then why should we mislead ourselves about potato yields.

And so, making calculations of harvests year by year, I came to the conclusion that the question of the quantitative indicator of the harvest potatoes should be clear, understandable and truthful, the only way to really realize your potential in potato growing. And it will decide on measures to improve the condition of the soil and in the choice of varieties, as well as approaches to agricultural technology and our labor costs.

How often to water potatoes and how to do it right? Should I water with sprinkling or is it better under the root? We will try to help you with this, so that you can properly water the potatoes and harvest more of this second bread.

First, let's answer the question of how often you need to water the potatoes and how much water is needed. It must be understood that at different stages of growth, a different amount of moisture in the soil is required.

The first increase in water consumption occurs 2 weeks after germination, as at this time there is an active growth of tops. The next increase occurs in the phase of flowering, tuberization. But if you overdo it during this period of time, then the tubers may suffocate, and you will lose the crop.

In dry, sunny weather, irrigation is required every 4-5 days. If the days were not very hot, then watering is carried out every 8-10 days. Also, do not forget that you need to constantly loosen the soil. Answers the questions “Should potatoes be watered?”, “When should potatoes be watered?” and “How often should potatoes be watered?” will tell you about the required frequency and proper watering potatoes in the garden open ground this video will tell:

Unsystematic watering is very bad for potatoes when you leave the garden for a long time. As a result, the tubers are formed crooked, ugly, affected by scab. Therefore, if you can not regularly water the potatoes, then take care of the mulching of the beds.

In general, you need to take care of mulching, even if you water regularly. Because this will not only reduce the need for loosening, will not form a crust on the surface of the soil, but will also allow it to stay moist longer. And not like this: they watered it - the earth stands in water for 1 day, and then the earth is dry again for 5 days.

How to properly water potatoes.

Also good for this case. This will reduce water consumption, and the earth will always be wet.

On average, it is estimated that one bush loses 10-15 liters of moisture per day in hot weather. Therefore, it is recommended to water 15-20 liters of water at a time for 1 square meter at least every week. The plant can get the rest of the moisture by condensing on the soil surface and by storing it in the ground with the help of mulching. That's all, we hope that we have given an idea of ​​​​how to properly water potatoes. Have a good harvest!

Potatoes are very sensitive to both lack and excess moisture in the soil. If potatoes are not watered at all or watered incorrectly, then its yield can be greatly reduced, various diseases will periodically appear on the plants, and the tubers will rot or form small ones. Let's figure out how to properly water potatoes and when they need moisture to the maximum extent.

First watering of potatoes in June

Proper watering is first and foremost correct timing. Do not water potatoes too early. The timing of the first June watering is important for the further formation of the entire crop.

• If you start watering potatoes ahead of time, then the root system will form a weak, superficial one, and this will affect the drought resistance of potatoes in the future.
• Potatoes will get used to being watered and the moisture close to the soil surface. And if for some reason you do not water the potatoes, then the weak root system will not be able to extract moisture from the deeper layers of the soil, and the plant may die.

1. According to the calendar, it is appropriate to produce the first watering approximately 25-30 days after the planting of potato tubers, that is, starting from the first days of June.
2. During this period, approx. 5 liters of water at room temperature.
3. It is necessary to water gradually, waiting until the water is absorbed, only in this way moisture will get to the root system, and will not spread over the site.
4. After the start of watering, potatoes can be watered once a week in relatively cool weather and 2 times a week in the heat, pouring out the same amount of moisture each time.

Watering early potatoes

A few words should be said about the intricacies of watering early potatoes.

• The fact is that in early varieties of potatoes, the aerial part and root system develop very actively, tubers begin to form faster, therefore, for early potatoes, it is also important spring watering.
• If the irrigation is delayed, then the plants will lay a smaller number of tubers, and the yield of early potatoes will also decrease accordingly.
• Biologically, however, early potatoes consume less water from the soil, therefore, they need to be watered. 1 time in 5 days, spending 3 liters water for each plant.
• During flowering the rate of poured water should be doubled, and the frequency of irrigation should be left the same.

1. It is clear that if cool and humid, then watering can not be done at all or water the potatoes with a minimum amount of moisture.
2. In a strong heat and drought the frequency of irrigation can be increased while maintaining the rate of moisture consumption.
3. To understand that enough moisture for potatoes it is possible on fleshy and lowered to the soil leaf blades, wet and often beginning to be covered with mold fungus stalks and rotting of tubers during trial digging.

Let me remind you of the most important stages in the development of potato plants, when moisture is critically needed for it:

• sprouting period,
• budding period,
• flowering period,
• period of active tuber growth.

Watering potatoes during flowering in July

As soon as buds appear on potatoes, tubers have begun to form, and the need for moisture increases significantly.

1. As soon as the flowers appear, the watering rate is needed double And increase up to 2 times a week in cool weather and up to 3 times in hot weather.
2. Water before and during flowering should be in evening time.
3. It's great if before watering you are slightly loosen soil, breaking the crust, and after watering the surface of the soil mulch humus, a layer of 2 cm to retain moisture. Such mulch, by the way, in addition to retaining moisture, will provide plants with additional nutrition.

Mulching after watering potatoes

You can use it as post-watering mulch:

• humus,
• cut grass,
• cut weeds without seeds,
• any green manure crops,
• sawdust that has lain one season in the open air,
• straw.

Mulch can not be removed, and after harvesting and removing the tops, it can be embedded in the soil, thereby providing soil nutrients.

Watering potatoes after flowering

After the end of flowering, the active growth of potato tubers begins. During this period, potatoes need moisture even more than during the flowering period, and if it is not watered now, the tubers may form irregularly shaped.

• The frequency of watering after flowering can be left the same as during flowering (see above).
• Increase the amount of water poured out to 15 liters for each bush (1.5 standard buckets).

Watering potatoes in August

You can reduce watering to a minimum as soon as the tops begin to wither (in August).

1. I advise pouring 1 time in 10 days for 3 l water under each bush.
2. Watering should stop completely, as soon as the tops dry out, after a week you can dig up ripe tubers.

____________________________________________________________________

Drip irrigation of potatoes

Drip irrigation is modern trend, which allows you to significantly save both moisture and time spent on manual watering.

1. Drip irrigation is a tube with holes (droppers) that are laid out in rows of potatoes so that the dropper is at the base of the bush.
2. The tubes should be connected to a barrel that is painted black and placed on a raised platform so that moisture flows freely through the tubes and out of the drippers.
3. Water through such tubes enters the plants and provides them with moisture. On rainy days, the droppers can be turned off by turning off the water supply tap.

_____________________________________________________________________

Potatoes have a poorly developed root system, so they really need oxygen. The best air and moisture exchange is carried out in sufficiently moist and loose soil. However, prolonged watering of potatoes leads to waterlogging and death of the root system. Therefore, when looking for a site for planting, it is better to choose light soils that retain friability for a long time, which will not swim after precipitation, will have a neutral or slightly acidic reaction and contain at least 2% humus. If the soil is heavy, add organic fertilizers. And in heavily waterlogged soils, the plant is cultivated with the help of ridges or ridges to avoid rhizoctoniosis and diseases that are bacterial in nature.

An equally important part of caring for a plant is its potatoes to prevent waterlogging? After the potatoes are planted and until the seedlings appear, the plant is not watered, since during this period it is formed which, with comfortable humidity, is able to branch well and penetrate deep into the soil. If the soil is waterlogged, the roots will be located at insufficient depth, which will subsequently affect the ability of the plant to extract moisture and negatively affect development.

As soon as the first shoots have appeared and bushes have formed, the plant begins to consume more water, but you should not overdo it with watering. The main signal for irrigation is the dried top layer of soil up to 6 centimeters deep. It is better to carry out this procedure in the evening hours to prevent moisture evaporation. As soon as the wilting of the lower leaves becomes noticeable, it is immediately necessary to water the potatoes. The plant will need the largest amount of water during budding and flowering. It is important to provide him with a sufficient amount of moisture in order to prevent the germination of young tubers and subsequently dig up a vegetable the size of peas. The tops dry up in the month of August, during the period of drought and lack of rainfall. To reduce the temperature of the soil, it is necessary to irrigate the potatoes, prolonging this and, therefore, help to increase the yield.

Watering rules

Very important question How to properly water potatoes? During the first watering, each hundred square meters of land must be provided with a water rate of about 300 liters, and in the next - about 500 liters. To moisten the soil, it is better to use not cold, but the so-called "summer" water, which is preheated in barrels.

Potatoes can be watered only in the morning or in the evening. Irrigation of light lands should be done much more often than heavy lands, while preventing the formation of a dense crust on the ground and loosening the ground from time to time. During irrigation, under no circumstances should a stream of water be directed directly at the potato bush, but it is better to use a hose sprayer. It is not necessary to water the plant before harvesting - this can harm. If desired, you can make drip irrigation of potatoes, which significantly reduces water consumption, can be combined with top dressing and maintains the necessary soil moisture for a long time. The use of this equipment has a very good effect on the crop, but the price of such installations is quite high.