After planting tomato seedlings in a permanent place, you should regularly form a tomato bush in a greenhouse.

This is especially true when cultivating vegetables indoors, which is typical for the central and northern regions of the country.

After planting tomato seedlings in a permanent place, you should regularly form a tomato bush in a greenhouse

What is it and what is it for?

The concept of forming a bush includes trimming excess leaves, tying the stem as it grows, and also removing side shoots in the axillary internodes located on the main trunk of the plant. Without implementing these measures, it is almost impossible to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse.

The concept of forming a bush includes trimming excess leaves, tying the stem as it grows, as well as removing side shoots in the axillary internodes located on the main trunk of the plant

The formation of tomatoes is prerequisite timely, abundant and healthy harvest of tomatoes. If you ignore this process, there is a risk of getting impenetrable thickets in the greenhouse, a source of fungal diseases and small fruits. Excess shoots take away from the formed ovaries the strength necessary for ripening. Removing dried, disease-affected leaves makes the tomato bush healthier. Tying the stems provides fresh air access to the plant and distributes the load on the main trunk. Free space promotes ventilation and, accordingly, pollination of flowers. And the abundance of sunlight affects fruit formation and timely ripening of vegetables.

Forming tomatoes (video)

Bush formation process

So, how to properly pinch a tomato? To become more familiar with the process, you need to carefully watch the attached video, which clearly shows which specific shoots should be removed.

In fact, everything is quite simple: all dry, damaged, rotten, diseased leaves in contact with the ground must be removed. It is also necessary to cut off all greenery growing below the first fruit ovary. It has fully fulfilled its role of delivering nutrients to flowers and is no longer needed.

Of course, you shouldn’t completely remove all the leaves. It is optimal to trim them weekly, removing no more than 2-3 specimens of questionable quality at a time. The rest of the greens are an important link in the chain of delivery of nutrients to the ovaries.

As for the side shoots, they begin to grow actively after the appearance of the first flower cluster. Therefore, at this time it is necessary to regularly inspect the axillary buds, preventing the growth of additional branches by more than 5-7 cm. If tomatoes are grown in 2-3 stems, the shoots located below the first fruiting cluster should be left. Subsequently, they should also be pinched after 4-5 leaves appear. IN to a greater extent this applies to determinate and hybrid varieties. The presented diagram shows in detail how to form low-growing tomatoes.

Basic rule: the total number of clusters with ovaries should not be more than 3-4 per 1 stem. The rest must be cut, like the top of a tomato bush. In this case, you need to leave 2-3 leaves above the last ovary. They will ensure access of nutrients to the flower branch. Topping is usually carried out in mid-summer, towards the end of July.

As for the side shoots, they begin to grow actively after the appearance of the first flower cluster.

Indeterminate (tall) varieties of tomatoes are grown with 1, less often 2, stems. All excess stepsons, as well as the top (once the plant reaches the required height), are pinched. As a rule, the optimal time for this comes after the formation of 5-7 fruiting clusters and the opening of flowers on the last one. Excessive trunk height will only bring additional trouble during care and will weaken the plant as a whole.

Learn more about how to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse: video about planting tomatoes.

To best distribute the weight of the bush and maintain clusters of fruit, it is necessary to tie tomato stems to ropes or trellises. On the Internet you can see a huge variety of examples of such structures.

How to form tomato bushes (video)

How and when to form a bush

Use sharp scissors to remove leaves and overgrown side shoots. It is best to purchase a special garden tool for these purposes that does not squeeze the stem in the process. There is no need to process the cut. It is enough to let it dry, so the best time for this procedure is an early sunny morning. During the day this area will be covered, and in the evening you can safely water it.

When pinching tomatoes in a timely manner, thin young stems are easily broken or pinched off with fingernails. The main condition for this is that the shoots should be deflected to the side, otherwise the main trunk of the bush can be damaged.

Experienced gardeners advise not to cut off the shoot at the root, but to leave a stump 2-3 cm long. This will prevent the appearance of a new shoot in this place.

In any case, the formation of bushes is a creative process. It is up to the summer resident to decide whether to conduct it or not.

Pinching usually begins 2-3 weeks after planting the seedlings in a greenhouse or greenhouse. It is necessary to inspect the main stem and the leaf axils on it. The processes that appear in them must be removed (see video).

Disputes about how to properly form tomatoes in a greenhouse have been going on for a long time. Proponents of the natural process call for leaving it up to Mother Nature. However, it is known that thickening of the thickets leads to crushing of the fruits. Although, perhaps this is precisely the goal of gardeners who are opponents of leaf pruning.

In addition, in the main territory of the country, tomatoes are cultivated under short summer conditions. During this time, it is difficult to achieve ripening of the crop without removing excess greenery and additional shoots. Increased stimulation with mineral complexes will also not lead to anything good: there will be an excess of certain substances in the fruits, which can negatively affect the taste of the tomato. In addition, severe depletion of the soil is possible, which will have to be corrected for several years.

In any case, the formation of bushes is a creative process. It is up to the summer resident to decide whether to conduct it or not. As they say, knowledge comes with experience.

Instructions for pinching and pinching tomatoes.

Tomatoes are a common vegetable that grows in many southern latitudes. It's no secret that it is in warm regions that tomatoes ripen very quickly and there is a huge harvest. But in northern latitudes there is not such a large amount of light and heat, so it is necessary to care for tomatoes correctly in order to get a decent result. Otherwise, the bushes will not have enough time, light and heat to produce a large number of good quality fruits.

When should tomatoes be shaped?

It is worth noting that in order to get good harvest tomatoes, it is necessary to shape them. Formation refers to pinching and pinching bushes. All these manipulations are necessary in order to develop special agricultural technology that will allow you to get a huge harvest without loss.

It is worth noting that in almost all southern latitudes, tomatoes grow quite well and ripen quickly. This is due to optimal temperature conditions, and humidity and light. In the northern regions, due to low temperatures, the ripening time of tomatoes is extended. This is caused by low temperatures and possibly high moisture content. In such conditions, it is necessary to accelerate the ripening of fruits. This is precisely why it is used in the formation of a bush. That is, pinching it and pinching it.

In many southern latitudes, tomatoes are considered not annual, but perennial plants. In our latitudes it happens a little differently, because the temperature is not the most optimal for the growth of this crop. Therefore, if you allow a tomato to grow as it wants, with a large number of side shoots and stems, then the root system will not have enough strength to provide the tomatoes with useful substances and for the fruit to ripen. Forces will be expended mainly on the growth of shoots and leaves, and not on the formation and ripening of fruits. It is for this purpose that bushes are formed.

Gardeners have several options and methods for forming a tomato bush. It all depends on whether they grow outdoors or in a greenhouse. It is worth noting that the first pinching, that is, formation, is carried out 10-12 days after planting the seedlings. In this case, the very top part is pinched off. After this, the next pinching is carried out again after 10-12 days. In this case, the main stem and shoot are already determined. Based on its definition, pinching and pinching are carried out.

How to properly form tall tomato bushes in a greenhouse and open ground: diagrams, recommendations

The formation of a bush depends on what variety the tomatoes belong to.

Early ripening. If you grow early-ripening varieties, then, in principle, they ripen quite quickly and, most often, such tomatoes are very convenient to care for. There is no need to remove side branches, because the fruits ripen very quickly. In this case, there is virtually no need to care for the tomatoes and you will spend a minimum of time pinching off side branches. Because the fruits themselves ripen very quickly and a small amount of nutrients is spent on the growth of lateral branches.
Tall bushes. Most often it is recommended to leave them with one stem, that is, approximately all additional side stems are removed. This is done approximately once a week. It is necessary in order to increase the amount of harvest and speed up the ripening process.
Medium bushes. On medium bushes there is no need to grow one stem; you can leave three. That is, to create a real bush with side shoots. There should be 3 main side shoots. Additional branches and shoots are removed. It is carried out according to the basic scheme.

That is, tall bushes are most often grown in one stem. This is especially true for greenhouses. This method is very convenient for growing in greenhouses. In this way it is possible to achieve a huge harvest of tomatoes. All nutrients are spent on the main stem and on the clusters with fruits that develop on them. The root system does not work on side shoots, because they are removed every 10-12 days. There is only one trunk left.

How to properly form low tomato bushes in a greenhouse and open ground: diagrams, recommendations

Low varieties include standard ones. This is a variety of determinate varieties that are distinguished by a short and very strong stem. In this case, the leaves look like the crown of a tree. Such varieties are very easy to care for and do not require any formation or pinching. That is, there is no need to remove the side branches, because the variety itself does not produce side shoots, but only the main lush crown is formed at the top of the bush.

Sometimes stepsoning is carried out in 3 trunks. It turns out to be a lush bush.

How to properly form a tomato bush into 1 trunk: diagram, description

Forming into one tomato trunk is a common technique that is used when growing tomatoes in greenhouses and on open ground. This applies to determinate varieties. The method of forming a bush is quite simple.

Instructions:

After you have planted the seedlings in the ground, after 10-12 days you will see side shoots that need to be pinched. That is, absolutely all side leaves must be removed.
There is only one main trunk left, and it is on it that the clusters and new fruits will form. After you see a huge number of fruits closer to autumn, you will need to pinch the top.
In this way, you will let the plant know that its growth has ended and it is necessary to speed up the process of ripening the fruits themselves.

The method of forming into one trunk is quite common and many of us could observe it. Most often experienced summer residents You can see exactly this method of forming bushes in the beds. It turns out that there is one trunk sticking out, with a huge number of fruits on it. And there are practically no leaves and shoots. This method speeds up ripening and is ideal for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse.

How to properly form a tomato bush into 2 trunks: diagram, description

The method of forming into two stems is ideal for determinate varieties that do not develop very much in growth. The number of clusters at the tops is limited, so you can increase the number of fruits by increasing the number of main stems.

Instructions:

In this case, the formation is carried out in two stems. To do this, after each additional shoot appears, wait until two leaves appear.
The stepson is removed in exactly the same way, all side branches are removed. As a result, the stem ends up with a decent number of branches from which 2 stems emerge.
This method helps speed up the ripening process of fruits, as well as increase their number. The method is ideal for growing outdoors.

How to properly form a tomato bush into 3 trunks: diagram, description

Gardeners also use the principle of forming bushes into three trunks. The method itself is based on getting three trunks from a huge bush, on which cysts with fruits will form. It is carried out according to a certain scheme, in which the stepsons are removed after two. That is, 2 are not removed, after that one is removed, resulting in a very lush bush. Below is a diagram of the formation of a bush with three trunks.

Tomatoes Dubrava, Cherry, Ox's heart: what is the best way to form a bush?

The method of forming a bush is selected depending on the variety and yield of tomatoes. If we talk about certain varieties, then Dubrava or Oak refers to early ripening. Therefore, it ripens quite quickly; accordingly, in order to form a bush, it is necessary to choose a method with two or three trunks. Also, many summer residents note that pinching and shaping the bush may not be necessary at all. Since it is undersized and early ripening. Therefore, the tomatoes will have time to ripen in any case, even with a large number on the bunches. The most interesting thing is that this variety is ideal for beginners and gardeners without experience who do not yet fully know how to properly plant and form bushes.

Cherry differ small size fruits and are very often used in salads.

Features of cultivation:

It is worth noting that the culture grows very quickly and is characterized by the development of a huge number of lateral branches. That is, tomatoes are very bushy. If you let everything take its course, you can end up with a tomato jungle with a minimum amount of fruit.
Therefore, pinching and pinching of this crop is necessary almost every week. The bush is formed into 2 or 3 trunks. In this case, absolutely all lateral and lower leaves are removed.
By mid-September, the top branch may ripen quite slowly. If you notice that it is starting to get colder, then the top cluster along with the green fruits must be completely removed. This will speed up the ripening of the remaining two lateral stems and the fruits on them.
In this case, green tomatoes must be placed in boxes; they will ripen directly in them.

Tomatoes Dubrava

How many trunks is it better to form tomatoes: tips

The principles of bush formation, as well as the choice of the number of main trunks, depend on the variety. If these are early ripening varieties, then in principle there is no need to bother with them. Since the fruits will have time to ripen quite quickly. Accordingly, the formation can be carried out in 2 or 3 trunks. Because tomatoes ripen quite quickly.

If these are late-ripening varieties or varieties that grow in greenhouses, then it is best to leave one main stem. Because such tomatoes take a long time to ripen and it is necessary to ensure an influx of necessary substances into the green fruits and accelerate their ripening. It is worth noting that mainly hybrid varieties, as well as indeterminate ones, are grown in one stem.

How to properly pinch the tops of tomatoes and shoot them: tips

Pinching is the removal of the very top; it is carried out mainly in order to let the bush understand that it is necessary to stop the process of formation of stems and side leaves, as well as stepsons. Thus, the growth of the bush itself stops in height and all efforts are spent so that the fruits ripen as quickly as possible.

Instructions:

Pinching and pinching is carried out early in the morning on a sunny day. It is necessary to do this so that by the end of the day the place from which you remove the twig has time to dry out and the infection does not get inside.
Many gardeners recommend treating the cut area with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Pinching and pinching can be done using fingers or pruning shears. Whichever is more convenient for you.
The process itself is carried out every 10-12 days, some varieties need to be pinched every week. These include Cherry tomatoes, which are very bushy and produce a large number of side shoots.

What happens if the tomatoes are not shaped?

Many gardeners wonder what will happen if they don’t form bushes and don’t pinch. It all depends on what kind of bush you planted. If these are low-growing, early-ripening bushes, then in principle you will get a more or less decent harvest. Initially, there is no great need for pinching and shaping such bushes. Because they produce a small number of side shoots and branches.

But if you grow plants that are very bushy, then you will end up with an impenetrable jungle of tomatoes with very little fruit. This is due to the fact that all forces will be spent on the growth of side shoots, stems and leaves. And also for their food. At the same time, there will not be enough nutrients for the nutrition of the fruit itself and the development of the hands. Therefore, you risk getting a weak harvest, or you will get a large number of green tomatoes that will not have time to ripen on the branches.

As you can see, growing tomatoes is not at all easy, because in addition to watering, tying and fertilizing, you need to regularly pinch and pinch the bushes. This contributes to the good development of the bush, as well as obtaining a huge harvest of tomatoes.

VIDEO: Growing tomatoes

How to form tomatoes in a greenhouse?

To obtain a high yield of tomatoes, we remove the leaves below the first ovary. When the next brush is formed, we again remove the leaves until this brush.

This group includes the most low-growing varieties tomatoes, and, as a rule, they do not require pinching. When growing such varieties, you must carefully read the manufacturers' recommendations for forming a tomato bush, which are given on the seed packet.
indeterminate;

How many stems will your greenhouse tomatoes have? Depending on the type of tomatoes and the area of the greenhouse, you can form a bush with one, two or three stems.

3-5 cm in length

If you do not remove the stepsons, the price of such inaction is a huge number of leaves, with a small harvest. That is why you should not give up pinching, you just need to clearly understand how to properly pinion tomatoes in a greenhouse so that the plants receive all the necessary nutrients and can please you with a good harvest. Let's take a closer look at how and when to carry out stepsoning, as well as how to distinguish a stepson from a leaf.

Indeterminate tomato is a plant with unlimited growth. It usually grows up to 2 meters or more in height. A determinate tomato grows to a certain height, on average 50-70 cm, sometimes even lower.

regular application of nutrients due to the shallow root system;

On three stems.

Most varieties of tomatoes and eggplants require bush formation to obtain a good harvest. From the axils of the leaves located on the main stem, numerous shoots - stepsons - strive to grow. If they are not removed, the plants will turn into multi-stemmed bushes, and the fruits that have set will not have time to ripen and will fall off.

The main rule that should be followed is that if all the fruits have not yet set in the cluster, then most of the leaves above the cluster should be intact, even if another cluster is formed there. And vice versa - if all the tomatoes in the brush have already started, then below this brush you can safely remove all the leaves. You should not remove more than one or two leaves from the plant at one time, so as not to provoke it to restore green mass to the detriment of fruit ripening. The leaves of tomatoes break off easily if you do it correctly - by pressing the petiole at the base upward, along the stem. If you pull a leaf down, often a long strip of skin from the stem trails behind the torn leaf, which harms the bush. We do this procedure in the morning on a sunny day so that the wound dries out during the day.

First of all, the bushes of the most valuable varieties of tomatoes, as well as the healthiest plants, are pruned. All tomato bushes that have any spots, yellowing or other troubles should be planted last.

Most often, it is on low-growing plants formed into one stem that tomatoes are harvested early. To do this you need:

semi-determinant;

. This is necessary so that the plant does not waste nutrients on their growth, and also so as not to unnecessarily injure the bush by removing large shoots.

How to shape eggplants in a greenhouse?

The formation of a tomato bush of indeterminate and determinate varieties occurs in different ways. An indeterminate plant must be shaped in such a way that only one main stem remains. To do this, you will have to remove all the stepchildren on it.
good and timely watering;
By analogy with the second method, you need to leave two stepsons, which will each have 2 clusters with fruits. The main stem will receive a load of 3 fruit clusters.
To ensure that growing tomatoes in protected soil does not give negative results, you need to follow several rules. These recommendations are aimed at how to properly form a tomato bush in a greenhouse. All actions should be aimed at forming 5-6 clusters of fruits on the plant. This is done using pinching. Because forming a tomato bush means removing stepsons.
Tall varieties, in addition to removing the stepsons, you also need to pinch - remove the crown to stop growth, leaving 1-2 leaves above the topmost brush. IN middle lane Russia does this towards the end of July and beginning of August. That is, it is assumed that all further brushes will still not have time to form a crop. After such pinching, when in principle we do not need to build up the vegetative mass, we can remove all the leaves except the top 3-4. This is also a good way to prevent tomato diseases.
It is better to break out the stepsons, trying to prevent the plant juice from getting on your hands.

All stepchildren are removed.

determinant.

According to experts in the field Agriculture, for greenhouses the single-stem type of tomato bush formation is most suitable. They don't agree with them experienced gardeners: in their opinion, the more stems the tomatoes have, the higher the yield of fruits can be obtained from each greenhouse bush.

Given the simplicity of this procedure, the answer to this question will be very simple: as soon as you see stepsons on a tomato bush. They form most actively after the first flower clusters appear on the bushes.

Stepsoning of tomatoes is the removal of all unnecessary side shoots - stepsons that grow from the axils of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out this procedure, since the stepsons take most of the nutrients coming from the roots to the above-ground part of the tomato.

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Formation of a tomato bush: fewer stepsons – better harvest

On packaging with determinate tomato seeds they sometimes write “non-sapling”, thereby misleading people. Of course, such tomatoes will also perceive the formation of a bush positively. But not all stepchildren need to be removed. A determinate plant is formed into two or three stems. In addition to the central stem, it is necessary to leave, respectively, one or two lower stepsons (the first is under the flower raceme, the second is the strongest of the remaining ones), from which the side stems will later form.

constant humidity, which is achieved by mulching the rows;

The ideal tomato bush consists of 5-6 clusters of fruits and about three dozen leaves. Such a plant will allow all nutrients to be directed to the growth and ripening of tomatoes.

Rules for pinching tomato bushes:

When forming bushes into two stems, we leave the main shoot and the stepson growing under the first flower cluster. It is usually the most powerful.

You can learn in more detail about how to properly plant tomatoes in a greenhouse from the video materials located here.

Leave 2-3 inflorescences, removing all the rest.

When forming a bush into one stem, all the stepsons are broken out, as well as the so-called “doubles” that are formed when the stem bifurcates, but all flower brushes are left, including the lowest one.

The most difficult thing to do is pick tomatoes in a greenhouse if you haven’t picked the shoots for quite some time. The most difficult thing is to understand which of the large grown stems is the stepson and which is the real one.

The goals of stepsoning are:

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Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, why is this necessary?

Stepchildren are removed as soon as they reach 7-10 cm in length. They need to be broken off with your thumb and forefinger. Moreover, break it out, and not cut it out with a knife or scissors. It is also impossible to pluck and pull out - after such pinching, the plant receives a wound that does not heal for a long time, open to a fungal infection. In general, wounds from pinching remain in any case. In order for them to heal faster, the formation of a tomato bush should be carried out on a clear sunny morning.

and the obligatory formation of the plant.

To reduce the number of leaves on a plant, you need to gradually remove them. It's better to have a few sheets a week. Otherwise, the tomatoes will become stressed and grow slower.

What is stepsoning?

start pruning the plants as soon as they begin to grow vigorously,

In the photo the yellow arrow is the stepson, the white arrow is the flower brush. We immediately tie it up and watch the two trunks equally. We break out all the other stepsons, above and below, regularly, about once a week.

Almost every gardener grows tomatoes on his plot. But not everyone manages to harvest a large harvest; for some, the entire harvest “goes into the tops.” To get a good harvest of tomatoes (tomatoes), they must be properly planted.

After the last inflorescence, a few leaves are left and the top, the growing point, is pinched off.
Each of these types has its own characteristics of formation and pinching. You can watch video materials on how to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse.
Tip: you can identify the stepson by its location: usually they grow from under the first flower cluster.

How to distinguish a stepson from a leaf?

Formation of a bush into the required number of stems: one or several.

Having broken out the stepson, in its place you need to leave a small stump 1-2 cm high. If you do not do this and break out the shoot completely, a stepson will begin to form from the same place again.

The plant is left with only one stem if it is weak or there is not enough space in the greenhouse. In this case, you need to leave one strong shoot, which must be tied to a wire or stick. The ovaries that the plant produces need to be thinned out, and the tops of the shoots with fruits must be pinched. All newly appeared shoots and buds are immediately removed. How to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse. The stepsons are removed, leaving a small stump.

When should you stepchild?

If you decide to leave three stems, leave the stepson under the first flower cluster and choose the most powerful of those located below, or the one located immediately or one after another above the inflorescence and grow them as additional stems, tying each to supports.

Why to plant tomatoes and what stepsons are, unfortunately, some gardeners do not know. Stepsoning is the removal (breaking out) of all unnecessary shoots - unnecessary stepchildren. What are stepsons? Stepchildren in plants are all lateral shoots emerging from the axils of the leaves. To avoid confusing stepsons with leaves, look carefully at the bush. The photo clearly shows what a stepson is.

Important: when forming semi-determinate and determinate varieties of tomatoes with one stem, with 3-4 flower clusters preserved, tomatoes on such bushes will appear a couple of weeks earlier.

These are tomato varieties that have no growth restrictions. Such varieties are usually formed into one stem. This is due to the fact that indeterminate plants tend to form many lateral shoots.

When forming tomatoes into two stems, they leave not only the main stem, but also the first stepson, which, as a rule, is the strongest and most actively developing. It is located directly under the very first flower brush of the bush. All other stepsons are deleted. This is clearly visible in the photo.

How to carry out correct stepsoning

Most favorable time to plant tomatoes in the greenhouse, according to the video, morning. It is at this time that they break off most easily. In addition, within a day the wound formed after breaking out the stepson will heal.

Getting more early harvest fruits (See: How to arrange beds for a good harvest) When a gardener begins to form a tomato bush, he must clearly distinguish between a stepson and a flower shoot. Some people unknowingly break out flower shoots instead of young shoots, thereby naturally reducing the tomato yield. Although there is a significant and clearly visible difference between them. The stepson always has leaves, even when he is still very small. There is not a single leaf on the flower tassel. A strong plant, given sufficient space in the greenhouse, is given the opportunity to grow into several branches, and this will be the correct formation of an eggplant bush.
In order to get high yields from growing large tomatoes in a greenhouse, you need to correctly form the stem of the tomato bush.

Several methods are used to carry out activities aimed at the formation of a tomato bush.

Forming a bush into one stem

On determinate and semi-determinate varieties, you can remove all the stepsons up to 3-4 clusters, then leave one of the most powerful stepsons.

Stepchildren do not grow on bare stems. First, the leaf grows, and only then a shoot appears from the leaf axil (between the leaf and the main stem) - a stepson that constantly grows. New leaves and “its own” stepchildren of the 2nd order appear on it. Thus, the bush begins to branch. Stepchildren must be removed in a timely manner when they reach a length of 5-7 cm. Experts advise not to cut them off, but to break them off with your fingers, pointing them to the side, leaving a stump of 2-3 mm in order to prevent a new stepson from growing in this place. -It's better to do it in the morning. when the stepsons break off easily. If optimal timing missed and the new stepson has outgrown, then it should still be removed, since the plant will waste juices on it. Stepsons should be planted from the first appearance of the stepsons after planting the bush in the ground until August; if you miss time, everything will go into the leaf mass and there will be few fruits.

Formation in two stems

In conclusion, a small instruction on general rules pinching tomatoes grown in a greenhouse:

To form a tomato bush into one stem, it is necessary to remove all the stepsons. It is advisable to leave a “stump” about 1 cm high at the site of the removed shoot. This contributes to the slower formation of new shoots. On this tall plant As a rule, they leave about 10 flower shoots, removing all the rest.

Formation into three stems

To get three stems on one tomato bush you need:

Important: in order to prevent the spread of various viral diseases from one plant to another, the stepson must be broken out, trying to prevent the juice from getting on your hands.
Extending the fruiting period of tomato bushes.
In addition to pinching, the formation of a tomato bush in a greenhouse also includes pinching, i.e. removing the growing point on saved shoots. This is done in the first half of August.

Features of different types of pinching

In order to grow a compact eggplant bush with well-developed side shoots, it is necessary to remove the top of the main stem. It is best to do this when the plant has grown to about 25-30 cm. Bushes with pinched tops begin to branch quickly. Of all the shoots that appear, it is most reasonable to leave only the 4-5 upper branches (stepchildren) and remove the rest. A harvest will form on the shoots left behind. At the same time, 16-20 fruits are left on the eggplant plants. The plant does not need to be pinched, but excess shoots must be removed.

Tomato bushes need to be formed into only 1 stem - the main stem goes up, and it is also tied up. The leaves of the plant are also on the main stem, and then flower tassels will grow on it, which then turn into fruit tassels. And there should not be a single stepson (additional stem). It’s especially scary when the stepsons come out of the ground, next to the main stem. These are wild stepchildren and need to be removed. Therefore, after forming a tomato bush, you should have a stem, leaves and subsequently flower clusters on it. Nothing more.
On one stem.
Leaving more stems on one plant is not rational. Since tall tomatoes are practically unlimited in growth, it will be difficult for the roots to “feed” more than three stems. This will affect the size and quality of the fruit. If the harvest is important to you, then under no circumstances should you thicken the plantings. The plant can fully grow only in bright light. And in dense plantings there is less light, so the plant is not able to fully bear fruit. With a large number of fruits on the bush (without pinching), their ripening is greatly delayed. That’s why many people never wait for the ripened harvest, and the tomatoes ripen already in their plucked form. In a thickened bush, favorable conditions are created for the most harmful disease of nightshades – late blight. The bush must be very well ventilated.

Before you plant tomatoes, first of all you need to decide for yourself how you will form the bush. Indeterminate varieties, with unlimited growth, up to 2 meters or more in height, are usually grown in one stem, determinate, semi-determinant (low) - in 2-3. You can decide on the variety by reading the information on the packet of seeds. On a single-stem bush, the fruits will ripen faster, since less energy will be spent on developing the green mass of the plant. They, of course, must either be tied to a trellis or on a support.

Plant tomatoes only in the morning, in sunny and dry weather. When the stepsons are removed at this time, the wounds heal well and the plant does not get sick. If you have to remove stepsons in damp weather with high humidity, then the tool that will be used for removal must be disinfected with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate after working with each plant.

Indeterminate varieties

If the size of your greenhouse allows, then you can form such bushes into two stems. (See Dimensions of a polycarbonate greenhouse) To do this, leave the first or second stepson, after which the bush is hilled and mulched. You can leave 4-5 flower clusters on the second stem, making sure to remove all lateral and basal shoots.

We leave the stepson located under the first flower brush.

Before you start removing all unnecessary shoots, you need to decide on the following:

Semi-determinate varieties

Obtaining more high-quality fruits per unit of greenhouse area.

A good prevention against fungal diseases of tomatoes is also to remove their lowest leaves that touch the ground. This should be done with all leaves growing on the stem in the “30-centimeter zone”, starting from the surface of the soil.

The removed stepsons can be placed in a compost heap at the dacha or used to mulch the soil in berry beds or under fruit and berry bushes; black currants will especially appreciate this.

Determinate varieties

Formation of a low-growing tomato bush: Low-growing tomato varieties do not require pinching or pruning. Tall tomatoes of indeterminate and hybrid varieties are prone to rapid growth. It is the low-growing tomato varieties that are recommended for growing in greenhouses for more efficient use of the area of protected soil.

In this technique, it is necessary to remove all the stepsons from the main stem so as to leave 5-6 clusters with fruits on it. You need to leave a few leaves behind the tassels with future fruits. This is necessary for proper circulation of juice in the stems of the plant.

Old, yellowing and spotted leaves should be removed first. Following them, it is worthwhile to lighten the bushes from time to time - cut out the leaves that face the north side, or are located in the depths of the bush, or in the shadow of other bushes. Such a shaded leaf will still not give us much benefit in terms of photosynthesis, and by removing excess leaves, we will improve the overall ventilation of the planting, especially if we are talking about a greenhouse.
When forming bushes into one stem, we leave only one main stem and remove almost all the stepsons. When forming determinate varieties into 1 stem, it is better not to touch the uppermost stepson, just in case. It happens that the bush ends early and the main stem stops growing, then there is a spare stepson on which the ovaries and fruits will also develop.
It is necessary to plant greenhouse tomatoes weekly, which can be combined with removing leaves.

Tomatoes classified as semi-determinate can grow up to 180cm. If the plants are not planted very densely, then they can be formed into either two or three stems.

We find and leave another strong and well-developed stepson. Usually it is located directly under the first stepson.

The red marks in the photo indicate the stepsons that need to be removed.

How to form a cucumber bush

When forming a bush, you need to be methodical. Once a week, or more often, wrap the stem clockwise around the twine. The top should be left unwrapped.

This stage involves the correct direction of plant growth, garter, pruning. You need to know where and how to pinch off a bush so that it will send out new shoots and ovaries.

Each of these types has its own methods and types of pinching. Best time The time for pinching a cucumber occurs when 8-9 leaves appear, not counting the cotyledon pair. You should completely pluck the side branches from below; in the middle part of the plant it will be enough to remove one cucumber and one leaf. The upper shoots need to be pinched into 2-3 leaves. And if the cucumber has reached the trellis wire, it is tied to the trellis using wire, cord, or strong elastic thread.

For example, for growing varieties that are prone to shoot growth, closed ground conditions are better suited. When growing them in greenhouses, you need to prepare for careful care and adherence to formation schemes, so growing plants indoors is not very advisable at the moment.

Correct and timely formation of a cucumber bush will allow you to obtain excellent harvests in your greenhouses.

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How to form cucumbers in open ground

After the upper leaves of the side shoots emerge from the axils, they are lowered to the bottom and pinched at a level of 1.5 m above the ground.

When to start forming a bush

How to tie cucumbers in a greenhouse

It is no secret for gardeners that cucumber is a “mustached” crop, and therefore this must be taken into account, and moreover, it simply must be used for your own purposes.
There are varieties of cucumbers that do not require shaping and do not need to be pinched.
When forming a bush, you need to trim the plants with scissors with sharp blades, otherwise the plant can be damaged and torn.

In the second zone, at a height of 80-90 cm above ground level, pinching is done, 2 shoots are left and one cucumber and 1-2 leaves are left.

On plants, male flowers, damaged cucumbers and tendrils must be constantly removed. The tendrils do not allow the plant to develop, as they take almost all the energy and nutrients.

The pinching procedure is carried out on young shoots of cucumbers in order to increase yield. The fact is that the lateral shoots are sometimes female and sometimes male; they are pinched so that new ovaries appear. If you do not do the pinching procedure, the plant will not set and, accordingly, bear fruit. If the formation of a cucumber in a greenhouse occurs correctly, then the harvest will be generous.

These methods are suitable not only for cucumbers grown in greenhouses, but also explain how to form cucumbers in open ground, growing them on trellises. Sciences such as agronomy and biology explain that plants grown indoors develop somewhat differently than those planted in open ground. On the vines, female flowers are more often formed, the shoots branch more, while on the main main stem, as a rule, male flowers are more often present. To properly form a bush, there is a pinching method. It is suitable for most varieties and is especially effective when growing cucumbers indoors, that is, in greenhouses.
For growing indoors, hybrids whose shoots have moderate growth are suitable.
To get a good harvest and achieve good results, you need to properly care for your cucumbers, tie them up and form a vine, and then your harvest will delight you with its abundance.

If you do everything correctly and pay attention to the formation of the bush in a timely manner, then you will have every chance of a magnificent harvest from May to October. All the best to you.

How to properly form cucumber vines

One of the methods of gartering is to form a bush of three to four plant stems. The mustache is used to tie up the side branches. This is done as follows: the main stem is tied with a thread to the trellis, and when the first ovary is formed on the side stem, it must be pulled to the main one at an angle of 60 degrees. Then the tendril from the main stem is wound onto the pulled shoot. As the plants grow, this procedure is repeated, and of course, over time there are a lot of mustaches and it is impossible to refrain from removing the mustaches.

Garter of cucumbers

Although the most common practice is to cut off the tendrils of cucumbers grown in greenhouses, this is due to the fact that they cling to neighboring plants and prevent each other from growing and bearing fruit.

Cucumbers can be grown in a greenhouse or in open ground, the main thing is that all efforts will be directed to the fruit formation of the plant, and not to the growth of foliage and empty stems.

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Forming cucumbers in a greenhouse + video...

Wounds will take a long time to heal.

In the third zone (height 1 m 30 cm) leave 2 cucumbers and 2 leaves.

How does formation take place?

You need to monitor the integrity of the stem. It is very fragile and can easily crack or bend.

You need to monitor the growth of the plant. If it has grown to 6 sheets, then you need to pinch off the top. If the bush has grown by 20 cm, then time is lost, and the plant will no longer bear fruit in width and will not produce new shoots. Conclusion: you need to carefully monitor the growth of cucumbers.

The stems of greenhouse cucumbers need to be tied onto trellises reaching a height of 1.5-2 m. After planting, a week should pass when the seedlings get stronger and adapt; twine is left from the trellis, which is easily tied with a loop around the young stem between the second and third leaves. You don’t need to pull it too hard to avoid damaging the plant, you need to leave a small tolerance. Over time, this will not be necessary when the cucumber begins to pull itself up the vertical trellis with its tendrils. The loop must be free, otherwise the crushed stem will not be able to fully feed and transmit to the fruits

The process of forming a cucumber in a greenhouse

Among these varieties of cucumbers, there are three types of typical differences in the degree of growth:

The methods of forming cucumber bushes are:

The root system of the cucumber is not very strong, therefore only with its help the plant is not able to provide nutrients and water all the ovaries that form on it.

This kind of bush formation is possible with frequent planting - no more than half a meter. And the mustache, even when drying out, holds the bush perfectly.
How to form cucumbers in a greenhouse
If a lot of barren flowers are formed, then you should not pick them off right away. You need to dry the soil and all the beneficial substances will creep into the cucumber fruits.

In the fourth zone - the top one, three cucumbers and 3 leaves are left.

During the growing season, yellowed leaves and dry and damaged sprouts must be carefully removed.

Level distribution scheme

After planting the cucumber seedlings in the greenhouse, after about 3-4 days, you need to tie the seedlings to a stretched wire.
For hybrids and small-fruited varieties, the cucumber is led vertically along the trellis. The main stem is pinched only when it reaches the top of the trellis, the side shoots are removed, the remaining shoots are removed after the third leaf. Long-fruited varieties of cucumbers require the removal of all female flowers and all side shoots in the first three leaves. The main stem is pinched at the level of 3-4 leaves above the trellis level, and the remaining shoots are removed at a height of 1 meter.
branching stems with high shoot growth,
pinching,

In order for your plants not to suffer, to develop properly and produce decent yields, you need to know that the formation of a cucumber bush is a necessary measure. Let's talk about the features of this procedure.

However, the most common way to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse is to remove the tendrils and side shoots at a distance of half a meter from the ground. First, the main stem is tied up, and then all excess is removed. This area is called the “blinding” zone. The pinching is done above the designated zone; at a distance of 1 meter from the ground above the first leaf of the side shoot, the pinching is done and only one ovary is preserved. After half a meter, another pinch is made over the second leaf and 2 ovaries are left. And so the cucumbers are formed in the greenhouse up to the top with addition. There should be one ovary per leaf.

Why form a cucumber bush? This is not a necessary operation for all varieties. The formation of the bush is determined by the morphological and biological characteristics of the variety. First of all, you need to find out the number of male and female flowers.

from hereMature branches at the top are very finicky. Their location does not need to be changed when picking cucumbers. This can lead to death and yellowing of the tops of plants.
After the stem grows to the wire, it is wrapped, 1-2 cucumbers and 3-4 leaves are left and pinched. This is how a cucumber bush is formed.
With the help of pinching, new varieties of cucumbers and other types of crops are developed. Previously, male flowers grew on the main stem, and female flowers on the side stems. Now modern varieties imply other options. Therefore, earlier pinching was carried out over 5-6 leaves.
When the stem reaches the level of the wire, pinch it and leave 3-4 leaves on it. The leaves must be wrapped around a wire or other support, and the stem of the plant must be tied in two places to the same support or wire. After side shoots appear on the bush, they need to be pulled out and pinched above ground level at a distance of one and a half meters. If everything is done correctly, the bush will bear fruit for a long time. The procedure for forming a bush is not so simple. A person who does not have certain knowledge and skills cannot cope here. Therefore, the first time you need to consult a professional gardener so as not to lose the harvest and time.
Each culture requires special attention. Each vegetable requires special care, watering, processing, protection from weeds and pests, and the creation of conditions with the correct temperature and the required air humidity. The correct light, soil, fertilizers, fertilizing and timing of planting, transplanting seedlings and harvesting are also required. If you follow all the rules for caring for the crop, the harvest will be good. Sometimes there is a summer that does not produce any harvests, no matter how hard the gardeners try. But still, there is no need to count on “maybe”. If you put in enough work, the results will be worthy. The formation of cucumbers in a greenhouse is one of the important stages of crop care.

The apical bud grows actively, the main stem branches weakly.

tying,

Of course, there is no single methodology, but the main nuances are as follows. Formation must begin when the plants have eight to nine true leaves. When the active setting of cucumber fruits begins, the growth of the bush itself slows down, because now the plant releases all the beneficial substances and moisture into fruit growth. Therefore, I advise you to leave a couple of especially well-developed cucumbers on the 5-6th bosom, and remove the rest. In the next bosom, remove all the ovaries. Then again you leave 2-3 of the most developed fruits, and nothing in the subsequent sinus. Next, you leave a stepson on the plant, which has 2-3 fruits and so on. This method allows the fruits to ripen evenly without becoming smaller.

Pinching is done only with young shoots; if time is lost and the length of the plant is more than 20 cm, then it is too late and this, of course, will not affect the harvest for the better. So don't miss the moment. And be careful.

Creative and responsible activities include the formation of a grape bush. This process is carried out in spring and autumn, sometimes in summer. It is necessary to give the vine the desired and comfortable shape for a specific area.

Formation of grapes is most often carried out in spring or autumn

The importance of the formation of a grape bush

The formation of grapes greatly influences the fertility and longevity of the grape bush.

Planning the harvest for the year ahead will depend on the ripening of the current year's vines, which are left with eyes for the winter. Next spring, shoots will sprout from the eyes and produce fruit.

Forming a grape bush, taking into account the terrain, type of crop, germination technology.

The chosen competent scheme for modeling grapes affects:

increased yield;
improving the properties of berries;
comfort of care.
the correct formation of a grape bush is simple and flexible, ensuring the restoration of the crop.

The formation process begins a year or two from planting and lasts 3-6 years. It all depends on the modeling method. This process is completed when the model of the grape bush and fruit vine is visible, which ensures full fruitfulness.

Maintaining the shape, subsequently, autumn pruning is carried out, but this is better than in the spring. When pruning, 70-90% of one-year shoots, fruitful shoots of the current year, weak empty shoots and, if necessary, parts of old wood are removed.

Autumn pruning of grapes is preferable

Guyot's scheme in the formation of culture

In cold areas, for covering types of grapes, standardless formation is most popular. The French winegrower Guyot, about 150 years ago, developed an advantageous grape shaping system, which is used as a classic one. This method is quite simple and effective, the bush is completely covered in the sun. This method is very good for beginning winegrowers.

How is culture formed according to Guyot?

In the first year, a strong shoot is grown. It is pruned in the fall, leaving two eyes from the ground or above the graft. (sometimes three eyes are left for insurance purposes).
In the second year, two one-year-old pagonets grow from the remaining eyes. In the fall they are pruned: one for a short shoot (twig) with 2-3 eyes, the second for a long shoot (vine) for clusters.
In another year, a twig and a vine will grow from the twig's eyes again.

A fruitful vine must be approached with imagination. Only 6-12 eyes are left on a young bush (at least 4). When the bush begins to bear fruit, coordinate the load of the bush if desired. By changing the length of the arrows, the size of the bunches changes.

The fruitful vine is tied in the spring to the bottom row of the support in a horizontal position, taking into account the vertical growth of the grapes.

In the third year, after horizontal gartering, fruitful one-year pagons grow from the fruitful vine in the spring.

In order for the pagons to have good development, they are tied together with replacement knots in a vertical position.

In the fall, after harvesting, the fruiting vine is pruned along with the fruit shoots. It is necessary to remove all fruit-bearing shoots down to the knot. Then there will be a knot and two growing arrows. Next year, a new twig and a young vine will form from them.

And so it repeats from year to year.

For vigorous bushes and technical varieties that must withstand a heavy load, the Guyot fruit link is strengthened by tripling it: the replacement twig is left with three buds, and the fruiting vine with two arrows. As a result, three vines ripen on a replacement knot: the lower one for the purpose of forming a new knot, the upper two for fruitfulness.

Guyot's scheme is suitable for the formation of grapes in cold regions

This method is the most popular in bush design. This method differs from the Guyot method in that it grows up to 3-5 branches, rather than 1-2. In fan modeling, fruit links are placed fan-shaped on a support.

Fan formations can be:

big and small;
standard and non-standard;
short sleeves and long sleeves;
one-sided and two-sided;
single-tiered and double-tiered, when fruit pagons are placed in 2-3 tiers.

In the cold climatic conditions, the standardless method is more often used: fan or half-fan (one-sided).

The advantages of this method are as follows:

ease of caring for grapes;
ease of concealment;
coordination with the presence of sleeves and fruit links;
rejuvenation of the bush and sleeve is carried out without difficulties;
excellent taste properties of berries, high fruitfulness.

After planting the bush, in the first two years, grape work is similar to the previous method.

In the third year, in the spring, sleeves are created. the main objective– form two vines on each sleeve. Already in the third year, the bush begins to bear fruit and at least four shoots are formed, reaching a length of one meter and a thickness of 6-10 mm. Pagons are trimmed by setting the length of the expected sleeves, which is not less than 50 cm.

The first time tying is carried out in the spring to the lowest wire (30-60 cm from the soil surface), creating the appearance of a fan.

In spring, pruning of the pagons inside the fan is made shorter, the outer shoots are longer.

During the growth period, annual shoots are removed from each sleeve. 2-3 shoots are left at the top, which are necessary for the formation of new links and lengthening of the sleeves. Their garter to the trellis is vertical.

In the southern area, up to winter shelter trim the green, unripe vine, cut off the tendrils. If the vine has matured well, the upper shoot is pruned for better yield of the vine, and is located slightly lower on the replacement knot. Only the bush knows what distance there will be between them.

If it's coming Cold winter, leave the third shoot as a second replacement knot for insurance.

In the 4-5th year of bush growth, fruit links are created on ripened sleeves. For the arrow that forms fruits with 4-6 eyes, the upper vine is cut off, the lower one is cut off with 2-3 eyes as a replacement knot.

Subsequently, they are expanded to 6-8 sleeves. This method ensures long-term growth of sleeves in length. The bush will bear fruit for a long time if the shelter for the winter is made with air-dry materials. To rejuvenate the bush and replace long-lived sleeves, in the future, shoots are used, or 2-3 eyes are kept on the restoration knot at the base of the sleeve, near the head of the bush.

Formation of grapes into a fan: a) seedling after planting; b) two-year-old bush and pruning points; c) three-year-old bush and pruning points; d) four-year-old bush and pruning points; e) ready bush by the autumn of the fourth year

Moscow standard-free small fan method

This method is one of the new ones, since it was developed by MOIP member D.M. Tokarev. The technique is perfect for small garden plots.

This formation allows the bushes to be placed in a row closer than 70 - 100 cm, with a distance between rows of 1.5-2 meters. Although, according to the rules, the bushes are located at a distance of two or more meters. Covering the bushes in autumn with dry material through which air passes will enable the sleeves to live up to 10 years and quickly renew themselves if they need to be replaced.

In the northern regions, it is advantageous to form a one-sided fan or half-fan. This method allows you to occupy a small area, which is not possible with fan shapes.

It would be wiser to form a standardless fan when the vine is still young and flexible. When the sleeves become coarser, they often turn into a one-sided fan formation on the floor. Fruiting of a grape variety often depends on the right choice bush formation schemes.

It’s important to start shaping the grapes yourself, otherwise it’s hard to understand. Modeling grape bushes is a creative but interesting job. Starting to do it yourself. Gradually everything will work out: the grapes will tell you, your hands will feel it.

Properly done grape pruning will create comfort for pollination of inflorescences in the spring and the ability to ventilate the bushes.

Formation of the bush in stages, from the first to the fifth year of planting

Grape formation on arbors

A grape bush, formed on a gazebo or in the form of an alley, is very common not only in industrial plantings, but also in dachas. So grapes give a good harvest with proper care.

The grapes on the gazebo become protection from the wind and the burning sun. For this formation, powerful table varieties with large berries are used.

The rules for forming a bush on a gazebo are as follows:

Each bush takes up a designated area in the gazebo.
If the gazebo is multi-tiered, each bush is placed on a certain one tier to avoid uneven growth.
Long pruning to form a fruiting unit.

How to form bushes. Methods for forming a grape bush. Video: pinching tomatoes