I would like to outline and protect the boundaries of my territory with a strong fence. But it is not always possible to immediately put up a durable and strong stone or metal fence.

Such a fence will be more durable if the lower ends of the dry poles, which will then be dug into the ground, are tarred, and nails, staples and barbed wire are coated with oil paint.

As a temporary fence of the area, you can build a simple fence made of poles.

Another, also very budgetary option, is a wicker made of vines or twigs. Such an environmentally friendly and beautiful hedge is cheap and looks great.

Fence made of poles

The sawn-off ends of the poles must be coated with oil paint to protect them from moisture.

Made of relatively thick poles, a sturdy and reliable wooden fence is suitable for marking the boundaries of the site and well protects it from livestock infiltration. Wicker hedges can delimit the site into zones and use them as a decorative element. A beautiful and diligently made wicker fence of walnut or birch twigs performs very well the function of enclosing the outer boundaries of the site.

Materials and tools for the construction of wooden fences

When choosing drying oil, pay attention to its smell. High quality drying oil is practically odorless.

• wooden posts for vertical supports;
• transverse poles;
• resin or drying oil for wood impregnation;
• shovel or yamobur for digging holes for supports;
• a sledgehammer for driving in posts;
• a hammer;
• ax;
• wire cutters;
• durable flexible wire;
• twine or fishing line;
• nails, staples.

Operating procedure

1. First you need to clear the area and mark the lines along which the fence will be installed. It is convenient to make the markings taut with small twine pegs.
2. Next, you should calculate the number of required support posts and designate the places for them. Usually they are installed from wood at a distance of 2-3 m from one another.
3. Dig holes for supports using a narrow shovel or a special earth auger.
4. Sharpen the lower end of the pillars slightly to make it easier to drive them into the soil.
5. Soak the part of the pillars that will be buried in the ground with resin or linseed oil. Such impregnation will help keep the wood from rotting too quickly, and the hedge will last longer.
6. Install the pillars into the holes and drive them with a sledgehammer to the desired depth. If necessary, the base of the post is additionally reinforced with stones or solid wooden supports. It will be much more convenient to build a hedge if you put double posts as supports. The ends of the poles are then placed between them, which gives additional strength to the entire structure. Pairs of support pillars are fastened together with metal brackets.
7. Install and fasten with nails the transverse poles, starting from the bottom. The ends of the poles should also be soaked in resin to prevent them from absorbing moisture. Instead of being soaked in resin, the hedge can be painted.
8. Using a wire, pull the poles and supports at the attachment points. This will give the building additional strength and stability, and the fence will not collapse. Instead of wire, metal staples can be used to reinforce the structure.

Wicker fence

To build a wattle fence, you will need the following set of materials and tools:

If you are creating a large hedge, then it is better to harvest rods up to 3 cm thick, if it is a small decorative hedge, then up to 2 cm thick will be suitable for it.

• vertical stakes with a diameter of 6-10 cm;
• a large number of twigs or vines;
• a hammer;
• sledgehammer;
• hatchet;
• sharp knife;
• awl;
• side cutters;
• nails;
• wire;
• resin for impregnating the bottom of the supports.

The best time to harvest wattle rods is late winter before the sap begins to move and late autumn. Suitable for construction are rods made of hazel, willow, birch, young alder, willow vine. If it is not possible to prepare the material yourself, you can buy rods at the nursery.

To make the rods flexible and the fence easier to build, they need to be soaked in water for 2-4 days before starting work. This time can be shortened by using hot water. A steam bath within a few hours makes the rods comparable in flexibility to boiled pasta, which allows you to build a fence with minimal effort. After drying, the rods regain their former rigidity and strength.

Stages of wattle construction

In order to color your rods, you can use a solution of potassium permanganate, stain, iron vitriol, as well as various varnishes (preferably matte).

1. Clear the area and mark the areas where the fence will be located.
2. Mark the locations for the support stakes.
3. Dig holes for stakes. The number of supports depends on which way of weaving the rods you choose: vertical or horizontal. The distance between the stakes also depends on the thickness of the rods, but it should not be less than 30 cm. A vertically intertwined hedge is more voluminous, and thicker and less flexible rods can be used for it. Horizontal weaving allows you to make the hedge unusually decorative, especially if you use not the simplest weaving.
4. Place the pegs vertically and drive them in with a sledgehammer to the desired depth.
5. If the rods in the wicker will be located vertically, then it is necessary to pull the wire between the support posts or fix the horizontal crossbars.
6. They always start to weave a hedge from the bottom. The rods are weaved, starting from the thicker end. The direction of movement during weaving must be changed all the time, otherwise the hedge will turn out to be heterogeneous in thickness.
7. Weaving must be knocked down more tightly with a hammer all the time. After a month, the rods are completely dry, and up to 25% of the thickness is lost. If the weave is not tight enough, the hedge will be weak.
8. The lowest row of rods must be strengthened: nailed to the support peg and tied with wire. This will prevent the netting from slipping down and coming into contact with the soil.
9. In the same way, the top row of rods is strengthened when weaving horizontally.

There are many weaving options. With some skill, you can make the most ordinary wattle wicker a stylish decorative element while maintaining all the functionality. The wicker hedge is not only environmentally friendly, but also very beautiful.

If you take fresh willow twigs for weaving and stick them into the ground with “collars” during weaving, they can take root and give shoots. In a few years, the hedge woven from twigs will turn into living, adding beauty and naturalness to the site.

Such a fence will be perfectly combined with a small village house and a bathhouse:

mixed - with a metal or tubular frame of support walls and an upper wooden lathing.

The ends of the supports are embedded in monolithic foundation glasses 40? 40 cm and filled with cement mortar.

Pergolas are made of climbing or climbing plants and are widely used in summer cottages and gardens. They look great in any size garden, forming a natural canopy. Pergolas and arches come in a variety of designs and can decorate more than just a garden. They can be placed along the facade, fence, combined with a gazebo (Fig. 18). Under the green roof of the pergola, you can arrange a seating area. There should be room for a bench, table and other garden furniture.

Figure: 18. Pergola structure above the walkway

Pergolas and other structures, which will be discussed below, can be made of wood, plastic, and other materials at hand. Plastic pipes that are used for the construction of arched greenhouses are suitable: they are lightweight and bend well.

Materials for the manufacture of metal parts of the pergola - steel pipes and corners, duralumin profiles of various configurations.

Large pergolas are made from thick pipes, as the mass of climbing plants increases.

The manufacture of the pergola begins with the manufacture of the sides. The necessary blanks are cut from the pipes. On the site, in marked places, holes are dug with a depth of 1–1.2 m. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom and the hole is filled with concrete mortar to the level of installation of the ends of the support pipes of the sidewalls. After the concrete has set, the sidewall is installed and fixed with retaining boards. The verticality of the installation is checked by a plumb line. The second sidewall is also installed.

Both pits with installed sidewalls are concreted, the top is ironed and held until the concrete is completely hardened (about a week).

After 8-10 days, the top can be installed. The sides are connected in several places by welding transverse pipes. The whole structure is covered with wire or mesh. The distance between the wires should be 10-15 cm. Plants will curl along them.

The wall is a vertical frame with vines on it. The recreation area can be fenced off with two or more walls.

The walls are made from the same materials as the pergolas.

Wooden pergola. This type of pergola is built from pine or spruce beams with a section of 80? 80 mm, top bars - 80? 120 mm.

In accordance with the drawing, the necessary grooves and spikes are marked on the cut out parts. The blind grooves are first drilled out, then excess wood is selected, bringing the shape of each groove to the required one. Special care is required when filing the strut studs to ensure that they are firmly connected to the struts and crossbars at an angle of 45 °. Having prepared all the details, they make a control assembly of the pergola. To do this, the crossbars are laid out on a flat platform (grooves up) and the crossbars are laid on them (also with the grooves up). The spikes of the struts with struts and struts are inserted into the grooves of the crossbars. If necessary, the corresponding tenons and grooves are adjusted to each other. Wooden parts are antiseptic. The joints are held together with waterproof glue. Self-tapping screws for wood with a hex head are screwed into the places of the thorns. Guide holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled for the screws (Fig. 19).

Figure: nineteen. Wooden pergola structure above the entrance

The pergola can be installed on metal anchor supports. In this case, the lower ends of the racks must be impregnated with bituminous mastic or tar so that they do not rot.

The pergola is painted with paints for outdoor woodwork.

The main parts for assembling a pergola:

Racks (80 × 80 × 2600 mm) - 4 pcs;

Crossbars (80 × 120 × 4600 mm) - 2 pcs;

Braces (80 × 80 × 1000 mm) - 4 pcs;

Spacers (80 × 80 × 580 mm) - 8 pcs;

Wood screws (8 x 70 mm);

Glue, antiseptic, decorative varnish;

Anchor supports - 4 pcs.

Screens and tapestries. Screens are a special type of decorative device for climbing plants. They serve as a background for flowering woody or shrub plants, and sometimes for protection from the wind, dividing garden areas, isolating areas from each other, etc. Depending on the functional load, screens can be dense and delicate. To create a screen, a trellis is used - a wooden or metal lattice. The supports must be strong and stable to support the mass of shoots and leaves, especially in windy conditions.

Tapestries-screens are used to divide the garden into separate functional areas. They are mobile, very varied in size and shape, and fit anywhere in the garden. If you equip such a screen with a container for flowers, then for the winter it will be possible to transfer the plants to the house or to the veranda. This is very convenient for plants that do not tolerate frost well. In winter, such trellises and screens can decorate your hall or winter garden, and in summer they can be taken out into the garden or yard again.

Along with the usual rectangular panels, panels of any configuration with windows, seats and shelves can be designed.

Pergolas, arches, screens, trellises and trellises look great on the terrace. They can decorate a balcony and veranda, a bridge and a small pond.

Trellis. Trellis is a garden and park support made of wood or metal in the form of a lattice, along which they climb climbing plants.

The trellis serves to create quiet resting places, fencing of utility sites, separating garden zones and a plot.

The trellis is installed on supports, which are recessed into pre-made foundation glasses 40? 40 cm at a depth of 15–20 cm from the surface of the lawn or path. The trellis grille can be free-standing or wall-mounted. Both annuals and perennials are placed near trellises.

Features of the maintenance of flower beds

Flowering plants used to create flower beds require care, which consists of caring for individual plant species and caring for the flower garden as a composition.

Soil preparation. When creating flower beds in places where there is no fertile soil, they clean the site, dig a shallow pit of the appropriate size and configuration. It is poured into it in advance prepared and filled with fertilizers vegetable land... The thickness of the fertile layer for summer plants should be at least 20-30 cm, for perennials -30-50, and for carpet plants - at least 15 cm.

Manure, complete mineral fertilizer (nitrogen - 10 g / m 2, phosphorus - 9, potassium - 10 g / m 2) or compost are used as fertilizers. Soil preparation is carried out two to three weeks before planting.

Planting plants. How to plant flowering plants? Before planting perennials, the soil is leveled with a rake. Then the flower garden is divided into sites for planting individual plant species. Perennial plants that winter in the ground are planted in early autumn from August 15 to September 15 (in the south of the country - 15-25 days later). Perennials that reproduce by seeds are planted in spring and autumn. Tulip and daffodil bulbs are planted in late September after summer drying. The planting depth of the bulbs is 15 cm, but depends on its size. The bulb should not be planted deeper than three times its height.

Perennial plants often multiply by dividing the bush into several parts. A perennial bush is dug out of the soil and divided so that each plant has 5–8 buds. These parts are planted in prepared places in accordance with the plan. From time to time, such plants need rejuvenation and transplantation. Plants with a creeping rhizome grow in one place for 8–10 years, plants with a compact rhizome - 10–15 years. Perennial plants without rhizomes with a fibrous root system need replanting every 3-5 years.

Perennials that do not winter in the ground (dahlias, gladioli) are dug up in late September - early October, the aboveground part is cut off with a knife, and the rhizomes and tubers are cleaned of soil, dried and stored in cellars or special storages in winter. In the second half of winter, they are germinated in greenhouses and hotbeds, and in spring they are planted in flower beds.

Biennials are planted in the form of seedlings, which are previously grown in greenhouses or on special ridges. Seedlings are planted in the ground in early autumn. Biennial plants bloom in spring. After flowering, they are removed from the flower garden or flower bed, and in their place, seedlings of summer plants or ground cover plants are planted.

Summer plants are also planted in place of faded bulbous (tulips, daffodils, crocuses).

Two weeks before disembarking, planting sites are prepared in flower beds, in rabatkas, parterres. The edges of the flower beds should be 5-10 cm higher than the surrounding lawns and paths and be bordered with a narrow strip of good turf or a thin border. The contour lines of the pattern are applied to the planned and watered surface of the flower garden. You can draw these lines with chalk.

For planting, it is best to take well-formed seedlings in the flowering stage. Plants with a one-year development cycle are planted only when the danger of the last frost has passed. Planting is carried out in the morning or evening. 4-5 hours before the start of transplanting, the seedlings are thoroughly watered. The seedlings take root best if they are planted with a clod of earth. Planting is carried out manually: they dig holes of the required size so that the roots of the plants do not bend during planting, and the seedlings are planted a little deeper than the root collar. A small gap is left between the flower border and the bordered plants to make the border stand out more clearly.

After planting, the flower garden is immediately watered with not very cold water. Areas of the lawn where flowers are not planted are sown with lawn grass or covered with turf. Sown areas can be sprinkled with peat crumbs in a layer of 1–1.5 cm. It delays the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the flower garden and gives it a neat appearance.

The emerging seedlings of summer plants must be thinned out once or twice. After thinning, the remaining plants develop faster and bloom more abundantly.

Plants have different moisture requirements. Therefore, it is inappropriate to plant moisture-loving and drought-resistant plants close to each other. Tuberous, such as dahlias, bulbous, make high demands on moisture. Most of all, plants need watering during growth, budding and flowering.

The relative humidity of the soil during these periods should be 70–80% for moisture-loving plants and 60–70% for drought-resistant plants. The irrigation rate for annuals is 15–20 l / m 2, and for perennials - 30–40 l / m 2. Watering frequency depends on weather conditions and soil conditions. Perennials require additional watering in preparation for the dormant period.

Shallow and frequent watering is impractical, as they compact the soil surface, not providing sufficient moisture to the root system. Watering is best done in the evening or early in the morning. The stream of water should fall down. When watering, dust and dirt are washed off the foliage. Along with watering, spraying is carried out in order to lower the temperature of the air in the surface layer and increase its humidity between and near the plants. Sprinklers are often installed on large flowers.

Loosening the soil. To maintain moisture, improve air exchange and destroy weeds, it is necessary to loosen the soil of the flower garden in a timely manner. The first loosening is carried out in early spring, as soon as the topsoil dries out. The depth of loosening depends on the nature of the location of the underground parts of the plants. The soil under plants with superficial roots is loosened to a depth of 3–5 cm.

The soil under plants with horizontal rhizomes, creeping and creeping aerial shoots is loosened carefully to a depth of 2-3 cm. Loosening is carried out around individual groups of plants.

Mulching significantly improves the growth conditions of perennials. Peat or peat composts are used as mulch. You can use sawdust, sand, fine gravel. Mulch is applied over the surface of the flower garden with a layer of 2.5–3 cm, if the flower garden is new, and for flower beds that are several years old, with a layer of 5–8 cm.

Terms of mulching - early spring and autumn, in the period after cutting off the faded shoots. It is enough to carry out mulching once every 2-3 years. Mulching is of particular importance in areas with an arid climate and low rainfall.

The site fence not only protects its borders. She can become a decoration of the landscape and part landscape composition... Fences can be different in their purpose and appearance. The fence must be appropriate for its purpose and functional. At the same time, it can not only and not so much be a fence, but can also perform a purely decorative function.

Several types of fences are distinguished depending on the height. High fences (3–7 m) are installed along the borders of large parks, gardens, large estates. These fences provide reliable protection.

Fences of medium height - from 1 to 1.5 m - are most often installed along the borders of summer cottages, mansions and estates.

Low fences are built near flower beds, parterres, reservoirs, at the boundaries of individual zones of the estate and have a height of 0.5–0.8 m. There are also decorative and partial fences that are used as a design element. An example of such fences is decorative walls, arches and screens made of stone, wood and other materials.

Curbs are low fences that enclose paths, flower beds, flower beds, and individual trees.

Fences are built from various materials: wood, plastic, metal and natural or artificial stone. Hedges are another type of fence that is popular and is constantly being enriched with new plant patterns and hedges themselves.

Making fences

When constructing high fences, the basement of stone blocks is laid on a pre-made foundation. A metal frame is installed on the base, into which the grill is attached. In the event that the fence is stone, the laying starts from the foundation, laying a layer of waterproofing. The trench for the foundation and the basement is made wider than the wall by 10 cm on both sides of the axis and 30-40 cm deep. Precast concrete elements are first installed with temporary fastening, and then clamped with clamps until they fit snugly against the posts in the grooves. Several sections are checked and finally concreted on all walls. For fastening the racks, concrete of a grade of at least M200 and frost resistance of at least 50 is used. Wooden racks with a diameter of at least 14 cm and a length of 2.3 m are used. The part of the rack buried in the ground is protected from decay by heated bitumen or burning.

Steel mesh fences are made in the form of sections installed between pipe racks. Wooden fences and mesh fences are made without a solid foundation, limited to the installation of pillars. For low fences, stone and concrete curbs, low cast iron and metal gratings, ceramic figured blocks, brickwork, wood and plastic are used. Many companies produce ready-made lightweight plastic curbs that can be mounted around a flower bed or lawn in a short time.

Low fences can be made from 38 mm steel water pipes. Racks are made of the same material, fasten the parts with ready-made tees on the thread.

Low fences can be multifunctional. Such fences are used as benches or retaining walls. The metal and wooden parts of the fences are painted with nitro-enamel paints of soft colors.

Barrel guard - a special type of enclosure for individual trees and bushes. The fence grate protects the tree root system from compaction, limits the hole for irrigation and fertilization. The trellis around the trunk can be used as a support for climbing plants.

Site fencing

The more valuable the property, the more solid the fence the owner wants to install. You can see a wide variety of fences - made of concrete, brick, with forged elements. They are certainly beautiful and reliable. But for a small house, an ordinary fence is enough.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the location of the pillars and the material from which it will be made. The pillars are the main supporting element, therefore, their manufacture and installation require special care. The base of the wooden pillars is burned, coated with hot bitumen or tar or wrapped in several layers of plastic film or roofing material. When making poles from metal or asbestos-cement pipes, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of water. Their inner cavity is filled with cement mortar.

The crossbars, or slugs, are attached to round posts with metal brackets, brackets or clamps. The staples are made of reinforcing iron with a diameter of 10–12 mm so that the slabs enter them with a gap of 2–3 mm. Fix the brackets on the posts with nuts or weld them.

The clamps are made of strip steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm and are tightened with bolts, securing the slats. In pillars made of asbestos-cement pipes, slabs are fastened with brackets made of sheet steel with a thickness of 5–6 mm. To do this, holes are cut or drilled in the posts into which the brackets are inserted, and the inner cavity is poured with concrete.

Currently on sale are wooden, steel tubular and concrete poles. It is possible to make poles from asbestos-cement pipes and other materials (trimming a steel angle, channel bars, etc.).

Concrete poles can be made by yourself. The formwork is made of boards, preferably on several pillars at once, given the long curing period of concrete before hardening. The finished formwork is sheathed from the inside with sheet metal. A frame is knitted from reinforcing wire with a diameter of 6–8 mm and laid in the formwork, pouring concrete. The mold for the simultaneous casting of four pillars of a quadrangular section is made as follows. A board made of boards is upholstered with galvanized iron and seven boards are prepared. Four of them (two extreme and two end ones) are upholstered with iron on one side, the rest of the boards - on both sides.

All dividing boards are attached to the board and to each other with steel spikes. To maintain the correct angles, they are additionally fastened with cap hooks.

For reinforcement, a steel rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm is taken. The reinforcement is knitted with a wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm, the ends of which simultaneously serve to fix the reinforcement in the mold.

You can immediately weld the veins to the reinforcement.

The inner surface of the mold is coated with used machine oil. Reinforcement is laid and the form is poured with concrete mortar.

To prepare the solution, take a mixture of cement, sand and fine gravel in a ratio of 1: 2: 2. Everything is thoroughly mixed and filled with water at the rate of 2–2.5 liters of water per 1 kg of cement.

The concrete is laid in parts, each time leveling it over the entire form. After filling, the mold is covered with a damp burlap and kept for a week until the concrete has completely hardened (the mold is placed in the shade).

The form is freed from concrete gradually. First, remove the extreme boards and take out the two extreme posts. Then, having removed the remaining boards, the remaining pillars are removed.

The preparation of the posts begins with the manufacture of the vein clamps. On the steel tubular posts, you can weld lining to fix the veins.

The holes for the bolts in the veins are made with wood drills.

Pillars (including concrete ones) are installed on a concrete base. The diameter of the hole is made 2–2.5 times the diameter of the column.

Sand is poured at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 20 cm.Then a concrete solution is prepared: cement (2 mph), sand (1.5 mph), fine crushed stone (3 mph), diluted with water to the consistency of liquid sour cream (for acidic soils, it is better to take crushed limestone).

A layer of fine rubble stone (15–20 cm) is placed in the pit and poured with concrete. Tap with a thick pole to remove air bubbles from the concrete. They put a pillar, align with other pillars and along a plumb line, fix it. The pit is filled in layers, pouring concrete over the stone and compacting the concrete with a pole all the time. Having reached the level of the surface, a special form is installed for the base of sheet iron, having lubricated the inner surface with machine oil.

The form is poured with a concrete mixture so that the concrete is 5–8 cm higher than the ground level. The top of the pillar foundation is made flat, the surface is iron, that is, sprinkled with clean cement and carefully smoothed the surface. The top of the foundation of the pillar with the shape is covered with a damp cloth and left for a week.

Features of the installation of round pillars from asbestos-cement pipes. For strengthening, metal reinforcement is inserted inside them and poured with concrete. The composition of concrete is the same as for the foundations of the pillars, only without stone, and the crushed stone should be finer. To make the pillars even stronger, the concrete mixture is kneaded in a solution of water-based paint.

The asbestos-cement pillar installed in the pit is filled with a concrete mixture by 20-30 cm, tapping with a pole. After pouring concrete into the lower part of the pillar, insert reinforcement and continue pouring concrete in layers. The top of the pillar is made domed and carefully ironed. Then cover with wet burlap and leave for a week.

When installing poles with a distance of 2-3 m between them, the markings are carried out using a cord and a plumb line. The pillars are deepened by 50–80 cm with the obligatory reinforcement with bricks or gravel. It is advisable to fix the upper part at the base with a mortar or concrete screed.

The front side of the fence is often built with pillars and a brick base. The foundations for them are made of rubble stone with a mandatory mortar or concrete screed. Brick pillars intended for hanging gates and wickets must be reinforced with reinforcement placed in the middle of the masonry and filled with a liquid cement mortar with a filler.

For fastening lightly in the masonry, sinuses are left or metal brackets are inserted using steel corners. The deepening of the foundations of brick pillars is 50–80 cm. The pillars are interconnected with a one brick wide base, which serves as a blind area for the fence lathing.

Often, fences are arranged from one base with metal racks and struts fixed in it. It is based on concrete laid in formwork. Sometimes the concrete base is lined natural stone, granite gravel or decorative concrete panels. The fence is made of picket fence, metal mesh, lattice and other materials.

Wooden fence

This is the most short-lived type of fences, its service life is no more than 8-12 years, depending on the climate and the quality of the wood. However, wooden fences are cheap and do not require special construction costs (Figure 20).

Figure: 20. Construction wooden fence

Wooden parts must be processed. Preparation consists in processing the pillars, filing and antiseptic picket fence. Sleighs, or veins, serve as a supporting element; they are made from thick beams or poles peeled from bark with a diameter of 6-10 cm of any length. You can splic them, making sure that the joints of the upper and lower slopes do not coincide. The bars are spliced \u200b\u200balong the width of a half-tree or in height with an oblique cut. In the through nests of the pillars, the legs are fixed with wooden wedges. It is possible to fix the slabs in the brackets of concrete pillars in the simplest way: in the middle of the brackets with hammer blows it is bent and pressed into the wood.

For a wooden fence, a picket fence is usually used - strips and boards of various sections with a length of 1.2-1.8 m. It is stuffed along a cord or according to a pattern. The cord is pulled tightly using two strips with a distance of 3-5 m between them at the height of the top end of the picket fence. The template is a crosspiece, the stand of which is made of a board equal in width to the gap between the picket fence, the crossbar is made of a thin strip 40-50 cm long, nailed to the stand at a right angle. Such a template allows you to quickly fill the fence crate. In this case, the cord is used only for control.

The pillars are sanded with a sandpaper, the tops are cut into two slopes. For better preservation of the pillars, their lower part is pasted over with 2-3 layers of roofing material with hot tar.

The veins from above are planed one slope so that the water flows down. The distance between the posts is 3 m, with a vein length of 6 m.

Pits are dug with a drill, after removing the sod.

The depth of the holes is usually 1–1.3 m, the thickness of the sand cushion is 0.2 m.

The corner posts are installed first, then the rest are placed along the lace. The post installed in the pit is fixed. Check verticality with a level or plumb line. The gap between the post and the pit wall is covered with sand.

After installing the pillars, mark the places of the cuts in the pillars for the lower and upper veins. The joints of the lower and upper veins are carried to different pillars.

The veins are nailed, then a picket fence is stuffed along a cord or pattern.

When nailing a picket fence, besides the template, craftsmen use a special hammer. Such a hammer has a blind hole closer to the striker.

Having inserted the end of the nail into the hole, bend the end of the nail with a hammer, using it as a lever, then the end of the nail is sunk into the vein. This makes the fence much stronger.

There are many different options for picket battens, but those that increase the durability of the fence deserve special attention. The most common type is a picket fence, the upper ends of which are cut off to a slope to roll off moisture. However, such a lathing has a drawback - the oblique cut increases the end area, and this leads to increased wetting of the wood along the fibers. It is more effective to use a longitudinal facing strip installed flat or with a slight slope.

The lower end part of the picket fence is subject to intense destructive factors. It is advisable to build a plinth of brick, concrete or rubble stone between the posts.

When building wooden fences, you can use a cheap, affordable material - a tool kit, poles, brushwood. Wicker fences are very decorative. They are constructed from twigs of vines, willow, hazel and other flexible wood species. The frame of the fence is made of pillars and three beds.

The longevity of such a fence is increased if bark-free materials are used. Before proceeding with the construction of the wattle fence, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the site and divide it into equal segments. At the boundaries of their connection, pillars with a height of 1.5 m are dug in. For the manufacture of fencing shields, three holes are drilled in two side boards for pipes or beams forming horizontal crossbars. Steel pipes with a diameter of 25 mm or beams are fixed in the holes of the side boards to form a frame. Further work to fill its plane is more convenient to carry out by placing the frame horizontally. Each board or rod is sequentially passed over one extreme pipe (or bar), then under the middle one and again over the other extreme. The next board is skipped in reverse order and is placed close to the previous one. The finished boards are attached to the posts through the side boards. It is convenient to assemble the fence in this way if you need to replace the old fence with a new one, leaving the old posts.

To make the fence even, when drilling the holes, pull the rope between the extreme posts at the level of each row of holes.

Decorative low fences can be made in the form of a lattice from an inclined set of birch branches with a diameter of 25-40 mm (the lower end of the picket fence is sharpened and driven into the ground at an angle of about 60 °, then attached to the slopes) or a low fence made of logs with a diameter of 120 driven or dug into the ground –150 mm.

If a wooden fence is installed on concrete, steel tubular or asbestos-cement tubular posts, then with proper operation it can serve up to 20 years.

Fence made of poles and wire

A simple, cheap, and beautiful fence can be made with poles and wire that is nailed to the outside of the poles.

Such a fence will be stronger if the lower ends of the dry poles, which will then be dug into the ground, are tarred, and the nails, staples and wire are coated with oil paint. It is desirable to paint the sawn-off ends of the poles with the same paint in order to protect them from moisture. However, if the poles are fresh, chances are they will take root and create a hedge.

The wire will stretch better and the fence will be stronger if you make supports for the posts and stakes. Stones are placed under the lower ends of the props or props are driven into pits filled with rubble. For the support pillars of the fence, a pit is dug out of a somewhat larger size than the diameter of the pillars and filled with rubble and fragments of stones. For the manufacture of a fence, you can use old slats, tying them from above and below with thick wire. The sections of the fence woven in this way are nailed to the posts dug in at a distance of 2-3 m from each other.

The bottom ends of the wooden fence poles can be soaked in resin or paint. You can use for this a piece of pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the poles. The pipe is fixed in a thick wire tripod, its lower end is placed on a brick, filled with resin and heated over a fire. The lower ends of the poles are immersed in the melted resin and kept for several minutes so that they have time to soak.

Combined fences

Combined fences have a concrete, stone or brick base and pillars (fig. 21) . The thickness of the masonry should be at least 40 cm, but if the length of the fence is more than 20 m, retaining walls should be installed every 8-10 m.

Figure: 21. Types of combined fences: a - a fence made of stone, brick and wood; b - a fence made of bricks and ready-made concrete modules

The spans between the posts can be made of ready-made concrete modules, mesh, wood, brick or cast. Often, what remains of the construction is used on the fence.

For the gate, lay out pillars with a cross section of at least 50? 50 cm with reinforcement. The foundation is made the same as for brick pillars.

To protect it from the effects of atmospheric precipitation, the upper end of the stone fence is plastered with mortar or revetted with concrete tiles, mortar tiles, covered with roofing iron, and small blind areas are arranged on both sides for water drainage. To give a decorative look and at the same time for durability, the front side of the fence can be made from a combination of different building materials, for example, poles and a basement - from red brick or natural stone, the fence - from metal or wooden lathing.

The pillars are made rectangular with a section of 250? 750 mm and 140 cm high (including basement). The crate is made of wide planks on wooden slats.

Fences with a metal crate are durable. The load-bearing elements of such a fence can be metal round pillars (a 25 cm wide base made of brick or natural stone is laid between them) with a crate made of reinforcing mesh, which is welded to a frame made of pipes, corners or box-shaped profiles. The uprights of the frame are held by struts fixed in the fence plinth, which can be faced with natural stone or glazed tiles.

It should be remembered that fences made of metal structures need regular painting. Fences made of bricks or shaped ceramics with a through crate on a sand-cement or lime mortar are favorably distinguished. The basis for them is the same as for other fences, with the difference that the distance between the posts must be a multiple of the size of the ceramic block used.

Mesh fence

Compared to a picket fence, such a fence lasts longer and does not block the plants from light. Poles for a mesh fence can be any: steel, asbestos-cement, reinforced concrete or wood. It is not necessary to cement them, although pouring the base makes the fence more stable. But you can simply reinforce the pillars with bricks buried flush with the ground. The easiest way is to install steel pipes that are hammered with a sledgehammer.

The netting usually goes on sale in rolls of 10–20 m, 1.5–2 m wide. When installed on poles, the net is raised 15–25 cm above the ground so that its bottom rusts less.

When the spans between the posts are less than 3 m, the mesh does not bend and does not sag even without a tie to a stretched wire.

However, a mesh fixed on a wire 5–6 mm in diameter stretched between the posts is both more beautiful and more reliable. The fence looks good, with wooden veins running along the top and bottom of the posts, to which the mesh is attached. The veins are made from a board 30–40 mm thick and about 10 cm wide.

The most solid and beautiful fence is made of metal sections in the form of frames, to which a mesh is welded.

When installed, corner posts often tilt inward, the mesh sags. You can strengthen them with struts and struts.

Mesh fence on concrete pillars

This type of fence is the most durable and convenient for summer cottages and garden plots. They combine reliability, economy and ease of installation.

There are ready-made mesh fence sections on sale, but you can make them yourself. To make such a mesh fence, you need concrete pillars, a steel corner and a mesh. Choose an isosceles corner with a shelf of at least 32 mm and a non-sided one - at least 40? 25 mm. The net is sold in rolls of 1.5? 10 m. Sections are made 3 m long. One corner 9 m long is enough for one section.

The ends of the segments are cut at an angle of 45 ° and the frame is welded. The mesh is welded in 2-3 places to one short side.

Then, using a crowbar as a lever, the mesh is pulled and welded in 2-3 places to the other short side of the frame. Pulling up the mesh, weld in 2-3 places in the middle of one long side, then the other. Pulling up the mesh, it is welded in the corners, and then along the entire perimeter with a step of 8–10 cm. The mesh can be attached to the frame with a wire threaded through the holes in the corner.

The posts for the mesh fence are set taking into account the length of the section. Sections are welded to pillars embedded in posts or to clamps. Corner sections can be reinforced by welding braces from the corner.

Mesh fence with wood veins or metal frames

When installing such a fence, it is not necessary to strengthen the corners. However, sometimes the mesh has to be joined from several pieces. You can separate (unscrew) the outermost wire, attach the ends of two pieces to each other, and then connect them by screwing in the wire. The connection will be strong and invisible.

The second way: connect the ends of the pieces with a piece of straight wire, piercing the cells with it, like a knitting needle.

After that, it can be attached to the posts. If wooden streaks are mounted on them, this operation is not difficult: the mesh is slightly pulled and nailed. If it is to be hung on a wire or only on poles, a sufficiently strong tension will be required.

A steel rod is passed through the extreme mesh cells, a cable is tied to it, with the help of which tension is carried out. It is easier to use a lever - a long strong pole, one end of which is lowered into the hole (so as not to slip), and the other end is pulled with ropes.

Another tensioner is based on the bow principle: a strong double rope or cable is twisted. A threaded turnbuckle can be used.

A bow or a sleeve must be hooked onto a tree, post, structure, or a log buried in the ground. The mesh is attached to the posts with wire, preferably stainless, or with bolts with a large diameter washer - this is safer and more accurate.

The final operation is mesh coloring. This work is laborious, and the smaller the cells, the more difficult it is to paint over them. Therefore, it is advisable to use a large mesh (30-50 mm), which looks more beautiful and easier to paint. It is more convenient to work together, standing on both sides of the fence opposite each other. A brush is used for painting, since the paint roller does not paint over the weave.

Wire mesh making

The wire mesh for the fence is not difficult to make yourself using simple tools. The most common mesh sizes (height, width) of wire mesh are 80? 80 mm, 60? 60 and 45? 45 mm. Here is an example of a wire mesh weaving design and a 80? Mesh weaving process. 80 mm.

To prevent the wire from getting tangled, it is put in concentric circles on the feed drum - an inverted bucket, placed on a flat board, under which a large bearing is placed. The position of the bucket is fixed with a load.

From the feed drum, the wire is fed to a pre-tensioning device, which is a cut of a steel channel, in which three rollers are mounted. By changing the position of the central roller, the wire tension is adjusted. To make the rollers easy to rotate, stop washers 1-1.5 mm thick are put on the bolts that serve as the axis of the rollers on both sides. After tension, the wire is removed using a cloth soaked in oil lying on the support.

The oiled wire is guided into a bending machine mounted on a flat steel plate over 0.5 m long, attached to a sturdy work table. The wire bending machine is a thick-walled steel tube in which a hard strip steel knife rotates. A 4–5 mm spiral groove is cut in the pipe with a 45 ° pitch, which ends with a round hole at a distance of 5 cm from the pipe edge. The pipe is welded to the steel corner (so that the welding does not cover the groove) and then the corner with the pipe to the base plate. After that, the axis of the support part is manufactured and installed. The correct installation of the support part is adjusted with washers. The knife in the groove of the shaft is reinforced with a screw or hairpin. The shaft must rotate freely. A hole is drilled at the top of the support part for filling with grease. The gap between the pipe walls and the knife should be 0.5–1 mm.

The working table is positioned so that the wire stretched at an angle goes up to the receiving drum. The drum can be a stand to which a rotating wooden shaft or a wire rod is attached to wind the wire mesh. Stretch the mesh with a load - bricks suspended from a strong wire. The folded end of the wire is attached to one of the mesh cells. When part of the net is wound around the drum shaft, the hook of the tension wire is hooked onto another mesh of the net.

The weaving of the wire mesh is performed in this sequence. The work begins with thorough lubrication of the tensioner and bending machine. The wire is pulled through the tensioning device and the lubricator, its end is bent in the form of a hook for half the length of the side of the cell, the wire is pulled through the groove of the pipe of the bending machine and attached to the edge of the knife. The wire coming out of the machine is cut into equal lengths and interlaced on the work table. The finished mesh is wound onto the drum shaft. Using a homemade bending machine, you can weave a wire mesh of any height and length. The most suitable for weaving mesh is a 2.2 mm soft galvanized wire, from 1.45 m of which 1 m is wavy.

The mass of 1 m of wire is 30 g, therefore, for 1 m 2 of the mesh, it will need 1.1 kg. If the wire is hard and does not bend well, the skein is heated over a fire and allowed to cool slowly.

Gates and wickets

There are many door designs made from different materials (fig. 22). They must be strong enough and durable, have a locking device that prevents spontaneous closing of the doors in a gusty wind.

Figure: 22. A gate in a stone wall

A gate is usually built from two halves (sashes) with a total width of 2.2–2.4 m, a height of 1.6–1.8 m, the width of the wicket is about 1 m. If there is one wicket, it is advisable to provide an easily removable span of the fence with side of the street for the entry of vehicles. Often, during the construction of a gate, there is a difficulty in equipping the entry-exit - a section of the road connecting the courtyard with the carriageway of the street. If a drainage ditch runs along the plot, the entrance must be built in such a way as not to disturb the drain. A metal or concrete pipe of the appropriate diameter and a length of at least 3.5 m is laid at the bottom of the ditch, an embankment is made and limited from the sides with a formwork of thick boards, logs or concrete. The entrance must have a hard surface.

The depth under the pillars must be at least 60–80 cm, otherwise the pillars may swing and the gate will not close. The bases of concrete, metal and wooden pillars are set to a depth of about 1 m, filled with rubble, rammed and concreted in the upper part of the filling. The most common material for making gates is wood.

When a fence is made of a picket fence, gates are usually made 2.8–3 m wide, the posts for them are additionally strengthened. The braces and strapping of both halves of the gate are made on spikes. The gate is hung on the posts using special gate hinges. They are placed on the inside (the gate opens towards the site). The picket fence is stuffed with a template. To lock the gate, it is better to use a device, the main part of which is a bar with a section of 40? 80 mm.

The beam is led with one end into an eyelet fixed on one pillar. They are laid in two V-shaped brackets located on both converging gate leaves. Then the bar is pushed into the second eyelet, fixed on the other post. The gate is closed with the help of a cape and a lock. The hinging of a wooden gate onto non-log posts is similar to the hinge of the gate leaves.

When making a gate from a metal mesh, both halves of the gate are made in the same way as the fence sections, but braces must be installed. The hinges are welded to the gate halves and fixed to the posts. The hinges for the lock are welded in the middle of both gate leaves.

Important elements of all gates are the so-called pillars - small posts. When the gate is closed, the middle thrust bearing keeps it in a horizontal position and prevents the gate from tilting or opening in the opposite direction. Side stops keep the gate open.

The safety of metal posts, sections of the mesh fence depends on the correctness and regularity of painting. Before painting the metal parts of the fence, it is imperative to remove rust from them. This work is done mechanically for a long time, and sometimes it is impossible. There are chemical compositions with which parts are easily and quickly cleaned to a shine.

There are ready-made rust removers on sale. Here are some examples of self-preparation of such compositions.

Recipe 1. In 1 liter of a 15% hydrochloric acid solution, add 1 tablet of urotropin. The mixture is applied to metal parts with a brush several times until the surfaces are completely cleaned from rust.

Then a 5-10% solution of soda ash is applied with a brush and the metal is thoroughly washed.

Recipe 2. Prepare two solutions.

Solution A. Concentrated formaldehyde is mixed with 25% ammonia in a volume ratio of 8: 5.

Solution B. A 15% solution of hydrochloric acid is made, adding 1 tablet of urotropine to each liter of solution. The solutions are mixed at the rate of 26 ml of solution A per liter of solution B. Further processing is the same as in recipe 1.

Recipe 3. Prepare two solutions.

Solution A. Hydrochloric acid - 470 ml, water - 300 ml, urotropin - 1 tablet, asbestos (crumb) - 40 g.

Solution B. Liquid glass - 50 ml, water - 150 ml.

Solution B is poured into solution A, mixed. Consumed after aging for 18–20 hours. Processing is the same as in recipe 1.

For painting metal parts of the fence, asphalt, bituminous and pitch varnishes are usually used. Unfortunately, they are all black.

The metal can be coated with organosilicon (KO), rubber (CS), phenolic (FL), vinyl chloride (CS) and some other paints. It is only necessary to ensure that the first number of the brand after the letters is 1. This means that the paint is intended for outdoor use.

Metal gates. Such gates are usually equipped with a mechanism for locking the leaves in the closed and open positions. It works in such a way that the leaves, having passed the neutral position (approximately 45 °), are held by a spring in the closed or open position. In addition, such a system provides the necessary safety, excluding spontaneous closing of the doors in case of gusts of wind.

For the manufacture of the gate, four metal bed headboards of the same design are required. They are disassembled, the arcs are sawn in half, into which inserts from a pipe of the same diameter are inserted. On the sides and middle of the frames, strips of steel with a section of 5? 40 mm. Horizontal elements of the lathing are made of thin-walled pipes with a diameter of 20-22 mm, vertical - from pipes with a diameter of 10-12 mm, half-arcs - from strip steel with a section of 4? 25 mm.

The manufacture and assembly of the gate can be facilitated by making a plaza - a full-size contour drawing of one gate leaf on plywood, hardboard, cardboard, etc.

All parts are laid out along the contour of the pattern on the plaza and seized on one side by welding. Then the sash is removed and completely scalded. In the middle of the gate, two plates of sheet steel 4 mm thick are welded to fasten the locking device and the latch-lock built into the wicket, the box of which is made of corners, and the frame is made of pipes with a diameter of 28-30 mm and 30? thirty ? 3 mm. The wicket is hung on two door hinges welded to the frame and frame in such a way that the wicket can be removed.

On the outer lateral sides of the gate leaves, openings are made for the passage of the spring mechanism wiring. It is attached to the gate on a removable axis, and on the other hand, by a spring to a metal frame-frame inside the post.

Part of the internal volume of one of the pillars is used for a mailbox device. Its frame is welded from corners with a section of 25? 25? 3 mm, sheathed with sheet metal on all sides, and a vertical slot is made on the front wall for postage. On the back wall of the box, a door is made that closes with a window lock.

Especially carefully it is necessary to build foundations for pillars, masonry and fastening of pins for hinging the gates. The foundation is laid with a size of 50? 50 cm and a depth of at least 80 cm. A metal pipe with a diameter of 50-60 mm is placed in the middle of it, fixed with a butt and poured with a concrete screed. Pillars with a section of 380? 380 mm are laid out of red brick (one and a half bricks) with filling the void with the remnants of mortar and brick battle. During masonry, pivots are installed from a steel bar with a diameter of 15-16 mm different shapes and a corner size 40? 40? 410 mm, which is tied with a soft wire to the metal pipe of the post with the help of a cross-piece welded to it.

The brickwork is led under the joining. If the fence is already standing, the ends must be wrapped with roofing material and overlaid with bricks. If there is no fence yet, metal corners are placed between the seams of the masonry to fix it down 50? 50 ? 450 mm and fasten them to a metal pipe inside the post, to the free ends of the corners they fasten them with bolts or screws.

The gates are hung on the pivots using bushings welded to the frame. In the middle of the passage, a stop is arranged for the closed position of the gate, on the side - two stops for the open position of the leaves.

Lattice lifting gates. They are very easy to use (due to the counterweight) and easy to manufacture. They can cover a span of up to 3 m, which makes them suitable for equipping an entrance to a garage, an entrance to a courtyard, a cattle drive, etc. The upper and lower hinged gate slats are hung on axles in paired gate posts. The end of the upper slope, facing the other side of the post, is supplied with a counterweight (fixed weight) balancing the sash with a crate made of picket, hinged to the upper and lower slopes.

Wooden gates and wickets. Gates and wickets made of wood consist of a frame and lathing. Rectangular frames are knitted with a through single thorn made of bars with a section of 50? 100 mm, always with a diagonal jib to prevent sagging of the gate leaves. It is better to assemble frames using epoxy glue, as it is not afraid of moisture.

Spike connections are additionally reinforced with screws or dowels (wooden nails). The ready-made frames are hung and adjusted without lathing, which facilitates the construction of the gate and the height adjustment of the picket fence.

The gates and wickets are hung on barn-type hinges. To attach them to metal or concrete pillars, wooden overlays are installed, which are attached to the posts with nails, bolts or screws. It is advisable to equip the gate with a mortise lock that can be locked from the inside and outside, the gate - with a lock from the side of the yard, towards which they open. With a large swing of the gate, they can be locked using a sled and four brackets. In the closed position, the doors rest against the limiter installed in the middle of the entrance, in the open position they are locked with a spring clip.

The rack is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20–25 mm and a length of 40–50 cm. An oblique slot is cut out in the pipe so that, under the action of a spring, the latch rises up only to the level of the lower edge of the gate. It is cut from sheet steel with a thickness of 3-4 mm and is attached to the post on the axis. Any spring can be used, but it should not be tight; use an ordinary elastic band, twisted into a tourniquet.

The lathing is stuffed after the frames are hinged on the same level with the fence fence, starting from the middle of the gate, the first bar is nailed to one of the halves exactly at the junction of the frames, closing it and forming a rebate necessary to lock the gate.

When operating the doors in winter, the clearance between the crate and the road should be correctly set: it should be at least 10-15 cm (based on snow cover).

It is not difficult to make a gate if both the fence and the posts are made of wood. First, prepare two posts for the wicket, kneading them (make one side flat). A timber is nailed from the side of the curtain. The pillars are buried in a hole, given that the gate should open to the street (in winter it will be easier to free it from snow).

The headband of the wicket is at the same time an ornament and a rigid connection between the posts. If you do not make such a connection, in spring or autumn, the pillars can be skewed.

For a wicket that does not face the main street, the headband can be made of a board that pulls the pillars of the wicket. For the safety of the wicket, a sheet metal roof is placed on the headband.

The strapping (frame) of the wicket is made on spikes and must be braced. The hinges are mounted on screws, preferably galvanized or cadmium plated. Then a picket fence is nailed to the harness, the handles and the lock are fixed.

Can you take an iron strip with a cross section of 4 as the basis for the headband? 80 mm. Holes are drilled in the strip to secure the roof boards. Between the iron strip and the boards, a strip of roofing (roofing felt, glassine) is laid. On top of the boards are covered with galvanized sheet iron, the edges of which can be decorated with a perforated pattern, a so-called kokoshnik made of bent or perforated iron is placed.

If the fence has posts made of metal pipes, the gate and headband are attached to them. Using thermite welding, the hinges are welded to the post. A corner is welded to the second pillar. An iron headband is also welded to the posts.

If welding cannot be used, standard clamps are used that are attached to the posts. Prepare two pieces of wood in which one quarter is selected. The ends of the clamps securing the bars are cut so that one bolt hole remains.

The vein bars are fixed with clamps, then loops are placed in the selected quarter of the bar and the wicket is hung. In the same way, a gate is installed on asbestos-cement pillars.

A wrought iron gate goes well with a mesh fence. In this case, powerful pillars (not wooden) are needed, which are embedded in a larger concrete base. Due to the rigidity of the frame, the mesh fence does not pull the pillars of the wicket, so the wicket can be made without a headband.

The pads welded to the posts are taken wider than usual. Hinges are welded to two pads shortened on one side, a corner is welded to the curved pads at the other pillar (to stop the wicket).

The gate door is made in the same way as the fence to the porch. Door elements are thermite-welded or riveted.

If the headband of the wicket is attached to asbestos-cement pillars, then before pouring them into the reinforcement laid in the pillars, a threaded stud is welded at the outer end. After installing such a post, a metal headband strip is attached to the hairpin using a nut. Two layers of roofing are laid between the strip and the roof board.

When making homemade concrete pillars, the stud is also welded to the reinforcement. Holes are made in the end plate of the mold through which the ends of the studs are passed.

It is more difficult to secure bolts (studs) in prefabricated concrete pillars. In such pillars, a hole is drilled or etched in the upper end, in which a bolt (hairpin) is fixed with special "iron" putties. Two putty recipes have already been given. You can also use the following composition: cement grade M300 and above is mixed with a liquid solution of PVA glue. The hole in the column is coated with PVA glue, the bolt is degreased and also coated with PVA glue. Then the bolt is fixed in the hole with putty.

It is advisable to equip the gate with a bell and an electromagnetic latch. If the gate is used infrequently, then the gate is constantly in operation. It is not difficult to make a solid, beautiful gate.

You can use, for example, a frame from an old metal bed, you only need to weld the hinges and patterns from a steel bar.

The construction of a new wicket from corners, rods of a 1 mm metal plate begins with the manufacture of a frame. Workpieces of the appropriate length are cut from the corners, the abutting corners are cut at an angle of 45 ° and all the workpieces are welded. When the frame is ready, it is filled with a decorative lattice made of rods curved on a simple device.

The locking device is more reliable and durable. The bushings can also serve as hinges for hanging the wicket: welded to the frame, they are put on the L-shaped axial rods on the post. From the inside, a door lock is welded, closing it with a metal plate with a key hole.

After the end of welding, the seams are thoroughly cleaned of scale with a metal brush, the surface of the parts and the gate itself are treated before painting. The prepared gate is primed in dry weather, after drying it is cleaned with emery cloth and painted with bitumen varnish or oil paints.

Garden bridges

Bridges connect opposite banks of water bodies, elements of the road and path network and can be open and closed (pipe crossings) (Fig. 23). These are quite complex engineering structures, and it is hardly appropriate to build a bridge in a private park according to all the rules.

Figure: 23. Types of the simplest bridge designs

Open bridges are built on wide water channels and are stone arched or hanging with an upper platform on the same level with the approaches of the road and path network. To simulate a closed bridge, you can make a pergola or arch over it.

Bridges are made of reinforced concrete, wood or metal and are built according to specially developed projects (Fig. 24).

Figure: 24. Garden bridge

A bridge over a stream or ravine will decorate any landscape on which there are water bodies. And even the footbridge on the shore of a small reservoir is a good find for a designer.

The bridge consists of a superstructure and supports. With a wooden superstructure, the supports can be wooden or stone. The bridge superstructure includes the roadway, main load-bearing structures (main trusses) and links.

The carriageway or pedestrian part consists of roadwaysupported by a system of longitudinal and transverse beams. Usually these are steel profiles (angles, rails and channel). Planks are laid across them, which serve as a road surface. Spatial invariability of the superstructure, as well as the transfer of horizontal loads (wind pressure, braking forces, etc.) to the supports are ensured by the joint operation of longitudinal and transverse ties, girders, cross beams and main trusses.

Wooden supports should be treated with an antiseptic and covered with bitumen to prevent wood from rotting. In addition, where the bridge connects to the shore, it must be reinforced with concrete or boulders so that the connection is strong and the shore does not sink. Concrete pipes can be used instead of trusses and supports. Water will flow through the lumen of the pipe, and the pipe itself (or several) will serve as a support for the bridge. In this case, the bridge will be simple and durable, all that remains is to decorate it - to build a railing, to cultivate the shore, to install a pergola or an arch.

A hanging bridge from a vine, a bridge - a cable car, a bridge from the trunks of old trees laid alongside will help diversify the landscape and decorate the reservoir. If there is no reservoir, then it is quite possible to arrange it.

Water devices

In a garden and park facility, one of the important architectural, aesthetic and therapeutic and recreational values \u200b\u200bis water bodies, since together with plantations they clean the air from dust, lower its temperature on a hot summer day (by 3-5 ° C), increase the relative humidity ( by 20-30%), that is, they create a kind of microclimate that increases the vitality of a person. In addition, the presence of reservoirs improves the condition of the green spaces themselves. But any body of water requires constant care.

In the reservoirs of garden and park objects in the summer-autumn period, it is necessary to regulate the water exchange at least 2–4 times. The depth of the reservoir in the spring and summer period should be at least 1.5 m.

Improvement of natural reservoirs. The natural reservoirs of the landscape gardening object include rivers, lakes, ponds, channels, the main types of improvement of which are fastening slopes and cleaning the bottom.

There are several ways of fixing slopes, when choosing which special attention should be paid to the aesthetic perception of the technical structure.

The most difficult in technical design is the fastening of the slopes of lakes, flowing ponds and embankments of watercourses.

The stability of the slopes is ensured by the device of a low banquet wall, reaching the middle edge of the water, with a solid sheet pile wooden or reinforced concrete row of piles, which excludes the washing out of soil from the foot of the slope during wave formation. Such a low anchorage allows not to disturb the biological relationship between aquatic and coastal vegetation and the normal life of waterfowl inhabiting inland waters. The surface of the slope above the banquet wall is also reinforced with various materials to prevent the effects of precipitation, temperature fluctuations, periodic water rises, wind or ship waves. As a rule, herbal clothing is used in such cases.

Within the boundaries of water rises, the slopes must be reinforced with masonry, reinforced concrete tiles with holes for plant soil and sowing seeds, or with a continuous sodding.

The slopes of canals, rivers and streams in the forest park area are fixed in simple ways:

Planting twigs or willow shoots;

Single planting of cuttings or shoots in a checkerboard pattern.

In the first case, in the spring, rods 1.5–2 m long are laid horizontally in pre-prepared grooves located in parallel rows and covered with plant soil. The distance between the rows is 1–2 m. The rods are reinforced with stakes 0.8–1 m long and driven into the slope soil 4/5 of their length. During the month, regular watering is carried out - first daily, and then after 2-3 days. In the first year (in autumn) the grown plants are pruned "on a stump".

In the second case, cuttings and shoots of willow or poplar are planted in the prepared soil in a checkerboard pattern. The planting technique and the technology of subsequent care for them are usual. Distance in rows and between rows - 0.8 m.

The bottom of natural reservoirs is cleaned in two ways: with pumping water from the entire reservoir and without pumping it out.

When cleaning by the first method with electric or diesel pumps, all the water is pumped out into another reservoir or into a storm sewer, for which a deepening - a "pit" - for water intake is arranged in the lowest place on the bottom of the reservoir. The surface freed from water is left for several days to dry, then bottom silt is raked to the edges of the reservoir and transferred to storage sites, where after a year of ventilation it can be used for landscaping purposes. The cleaned bottom of the reservoir is leveled according to the design marks and covered with a layer of drainage material - coarse sand or gravel - at least 20 cm thick. The banks are fixed in one of the ways described above; paths are laid in the adjacent territories, sites, structures and small architectural forms are placed. The existing green spaces, if necessary, are supplemented with new plantings and flower beds.

In the second way (without pumping out water), the reservoir is cleaned using dredgers and dredgers of different sizes. The choice of brands of mechanisms and ways of moving the sludge slurry depend on the size of the reservoir and its depth.

Artificial reservoirs

An artificial reservoir created on the site will significantly increase the comfort of the garden, enrich the landscape and increase the value of real estate. In modern conditions, territories for gardens and parks are usually represented by waste land, peat bogs, swamps and dumps where it is possible to build artificial lakes, ponds, pools and streams.

Lake. A lake is an artificially created deep-water space that has a constant visible inflow (river, stream, in rare cases, a water conduit) and water drainage through a dam or a downpipe, which creates a current in the water column, albeit subtle. The bottom of the reservoir is designed with an appropriate slope.

The basis for the device of the reservoir can be the natural depressions of the surface of the site, which, when deepened, become the bottom of the lake, in the center of which a channel is made with slopes from the water supply source to the water intake device. The latter may be an underlying reservoir or a storm sewer network. The shores of the lake and their outlines obey the external landscape environment and emphasize its main points of view or contribute to their comprehensive overview.

The profile of the banks should have pronounced relief drops: upland, stone ridges and ledges with closely approaching dark coniferous and dark-leaved plantations on the northern side of the lake and low extensive lawn spaces with separate groups of freely growing trees and shrubs on the southeastern side. This combination of relief and vegetation makes it possible to solve the spatial illumination of the water surface. The dimensions of the lake, the methods of its construction and feeding are adopted by a special project, which can be carried out by a specialized organization.

Ponds. A pond is an artificially created deep closed water structure fed by the collection of surface melt and rainwater and underground groundwater.

Ponds are arranged on the folds of the relief, where surface runoffs are collected. On a flat surface, they are created by digging a volumetric pit and the direction of the surface slopes towards it with the general vertical planning of the site.

Ponds are water bodies with a smaller area than lakes; they are designed for swimming, boating, waterfowl and fish breeding.

The pond includes a power source - water conduits for artificial recharge with melt and rainwater, specially equipped hydraulic structures in a dam or an earthen slope: drain pipes, sander gates designed to replace water and purify a reservoir (Fig. 25). The construction of modern ponds is carried out according to technical working projects based on in-depth study and application of the research carried out.

Figure: 25. Diagram of the device of the simplest pond

Ponds are distinguished by food sources, which determine not only their location, but also the area of \u200b\u200bthe water surface, depth and conditions for their further exploitation and maintenance. They can be flowing, while their sources of nutrition will be rivers, streams, spring or ground waters, and non-flowing, when the sources of food are city water conduits or water inflows from other bodies of water by gravity or compulsory, as well as surface water runoff.

Ponds can be single or, in combination with others, form a whole water system with a depth of at least 1 m near the coast and up to 4.5 m in the middle with a slope of 1: 5 from the coastline. Such parameters of the pond prevent the rapid overgrowth of the reservoir with algae and sedge, which contributes to the development of mosquito larvae, silting of the bottom, flowering of the water surface and the appearance of an unpleasant pungent smell of rotting vegetation.

When digging pond bowls with excavators or bulldozers, the soil is used for vertical planning of the territory. The bottom of the reservoir is given the design slopes to ensure the independent drainage of water through the drain holes. When constructing a pond bed, special attention is paid to preventing water from filtering into the ground through it. The watertightness of the pond bed is ensured by the presence of clay band at its base. If the base consists of permeable soils (sand, sandy loam), then its waterproofing is required. The simplest and affordable way - device of a clay base, or "castle".

After planning the bed of the bowl, crumpled clay, "clay dough" or fat loam with a layer of 0.3–0.5 m with layer-by-layer (0.15–0.2 m) compaction with a rammer is placed on its surface. The clay layer should extend 0.4–0.5 m above the water's edge in order to waterproof the banks.

On top of the waterproof clay pavement - “castle” - gravel surcharge is arranged with a layer thickness of 4–5 cm, which is sunk by ramming into clay, turning it into a dense gravel base. Next, a layer of coarse sand up to 15 cm thick is laid on the surface. Such waterproofing ensures almost complete waterproofing of the pond bed. For small ponds, it is possible to use continuous laying on a clay base instead of gravel-sand surcharge of cobblestone (according to the principle of a cobblestone road). Simultaneously with the waterproofing works, a drain device is installed.

Another method of waterproofing the bed and walls with a small pond size is a roofing or roofing felt or bitumen roofing material along the bottom.

On a carefully planned and compacted soil base of the bed, one or two layers of roofing roofing or roofing felt overlapping are laid, with overlap of one canvas by the other by 8-10 cm and puttying these seams with heated bitumen.

With a two-layer coating, the surface of the first layer of insulating material, after laying on the base, is covered with heated bitumen and the second layer of insulating material is laid on it in the perpendicular direction. The seams formed between the layers are coated with bitumen. Insulation layers are brought out to the coastline 0.4–0.5 m above the water's edge, their ends are carefully secured with soil and gravel poured from above. An insulating coating made in this way is poured and leveled with a layer of coarse sand 5 cm thick.

Ponds located on rivers, streams and ravines are created using waterproof earth dams, wooden or reinforced concrete walls with a drainage device, on the top of which driveways or passages are built to connect the banks. Dam slopes - from 1: 1.5 to 1: 3.5.

Pools

Pools are open, artificial ponds with a specially built tub for filling and draining water. By design, they are splashing, decorative, etc. (depending on the size of the site); by the size of the bath - large and small. In addition, the pools can be open or closed (fig. 26).

Figure: 26. Indoor pool

The open ones are usually used during the summer. But sometimes such pools are built with artificial water heating, which allows them to be used all year round.

The shape of the pool can be any, but remember that it depends on the purpose of the pool. For example, sports pools are generally rectangular in shape and are multiples of 12.5 m in length.

Depending on the purpose of the pool, its bath usually consists of two parts: shallow (0.7–1 m deep) and deep (2.5–4.5 m). Outdoor pools are completely or partially buried in the ground. The bottom and walls of the bath, made of reinforced concrete and covered with a finishing material, are waterproofed. The pools are provided with water, electricity and sewerage. Areas around the pool are mowed lawns with dense turf, and paths and areas must have a hard top surface.

The materials for the manufacture of bathtubs are monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, plastic. The inner surface of the bath should not be slippery, and its corners should be rounded. Water is supplied to the pool through a hole in the center of the side wall and is discharged through special bottom drains into the storm sewer network.

Several pool options. Consider the order of work for the construction of a small pool size 2? 2 m and a depth of 0.6 m. To prevent moisture from accumulating on the bottom during construction, drainage must be provided. To do this, cut the bottom with a slope towards the center of the pit, dig a small hole 0.3–0.4 m deep, then mark the points for the pegs. Should you get a square of 1.8? 1.8 m, at the corners of which pegs with a cross section of 5? 5 cm long and 90 cm long, impregnated with bitumen so that the upper ends rise 25 mm above the ground.

The walls of the pit are sheathed with roofing felt, wrapping its upper edge around a board with a section of 25? 100 mm and nail it to the pegs so that the roofing material is sandwiched between the pegs and the board, and the board rises 15 mm above the peg. The lower edge of the roofing material is wrapped inside the pit, having previously cut in the corners. After that, the drainage at the bottom of the pit is filled with gravel until a flat surface is formed. From above, the bottom is covered with sand. The depth of the pit to the upper edge of the board is about 55 cm. The gap between the walls of the pit and roofing material is covered with gravel for the device of lateral drainage.

Next, you need to make removable lattices from the slats and cut out the pool tub from plastic wrap in size 3? 3 m. The edges of the film, aligned with the fabric, are placed between the slats with a section of 15? 50 mm and 2 m long and fastened with nails. Then they spread the bathtub at the bottom of the pit and, turning the formed corners to the outside, lay the slats behind the boards fixed on the pegs. The slats are fixed on top. The fixing elements are four sections, two with a longitudinal arrangement of strips (long) and two with a transverse (short). The long section is assembled from three cross braces - boards with a section of 100? 20 mm, to which boards with a section of 25 are nailed from below? 100 mm and length 440 mm. The spacers are enclosed in the frame.

The upper plane in the longitudinal direction is sheathed with slats with a section of 40? 15 mm at intervals of 10 mm. The short section is 185 cm long, with the outer spacers serving as frame ends. The slats of the upper plane are placed in the transverse direction. The finished sections are installed so that the grooves of the transverse struts fix the bath laths. All wooden parts are primed with linseed oil, painted or varnished.

For the winter, take out the film bath. If you fold it diagonally and wrap the remaining "tail" around the assembled slats, you get a package size 200? thirty ? 20 cm. The pit is covered with boards to prevent precipitation from entering.

Swimming pool for children. The area of \u200b\u200bsuch a pool is about 4 m 2. The bottom from the entrance to the pool is lowered by a maximum of 50 cm (steps can be made 10-15 cm high). From the side of the entrance, an English lawn is broken or tiles are laid so that dirt does not get into the water.

The pool is concrete, the bottom is reinforced. It is advisable that the pool is located on clay soil, which does not allow water to pass through. In the absence of clay, it is advisable to bring it in before concreting the floor and lay it on the bottom with a layer of 10–11 cm, and compact it carefully. Tiles are laid along the edges of the pool in order to avoid the ingress of dirt.

Hard plastic pipes are used to drain the water, the outlet is placed in the deepest place. When concreting, it should be ensured that the flat part of the bottom slopes moderately towards the outlet.

An overflow pipe is installed near the high wall to drain excess water and remove dirt from the pool surface. The water should drain in a thin layer of maximum width. In square shaped pools, dirt collects in the corners, so it is best to arrange catchments in the two rear corners. The water is drained into a collection tank and used to replenish the pool. The collector is built of concrete with a plan size of at least 70? 70 cm. For safety, it is covered with a wooden grate or lid.

Swimming pool. This is a small structure with an area of \u200b\u200b4 m 2 and a depth of 80 to 100 cm. comfortable material - reinforced concrete.

The water drainage pipeline is made of plastic pipes. A pipe for draining water is laid at the lowest point of the bottom and a branch pipe is mounted on it with internal thread, on which the pipe is perpendicularly reinforced to remove dirt from the water surface. A nut is screwed onto the upper end of the pipe, by unscrewing it, you can open the outlet.

For concreting walls 80–100 cm high and 8 cm thick, a concrete mixture with a ratio of cement and sand (gravel) 1: 6 is used. The size of gravel or pebbles is no more than 3 cm. On dry days, it is necessary to moisten the concrete along with the formwork. The walls of the pool are plastered with a finishing cement mortar, a cement screed is laid on the bottom or laid with tiles.

For the winter, the water from the pool is drained, the outlet is left open. After the water is drained, it is closed with a lid made of boards, and roofing board or film is put on top.

Large pool. Pool size 12? It is advisable to place 8 m away from trees so that the leaves do not fall into the water.

From the lowest point of the pit, a shallow groove is dug outside the pool for a drain pipe 5-6 m long and 50 mm in diameter, the end of the pipe is bent up so that it protrudes about 20 cm above the bottom of the pit, a plastic sleeve with a removable grating is put on it and fixed with a clamp or copper wire. A thin layer of washed gravel or crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit and concrete is laid with a layer of 7–8 cm. metal mesh from steel reinforcing bar or wire with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 20? 30 cm. A second layer of mortar about 8 cm thick is laid on the reinforcement and leveled well. Thickness concrete base together with a gravel substrate must be at least 20 cm.

It is better to lay the pool walls from bricks. It is advisable to cement the brickwork from the inside of the pool, and insulate the outside with bitumen. The rungs of the stairs to the pool and foot bath are made of bricks laid on a gravel and concrete base. A drain hole is provided in the corner of the bath.

After two to three days, when the concrete has hardened, you can fill in irregularities, sinks. For this purpose, use a solution of cement and sand (1: 3). For quick setting, 1-2% liquid glass is added to the solution.

After two or three weeks, when the concrete is strong enough, they begin to clad the curb and finish the pool. It is advisable to cover the border with a brick on a cement mortar. The bricks are placed across the pool wall. Sharp edges protruding into the pool must be dulled with an emery stone.

Around the pool, make a flat earthen embankment 1 m wide, equal in height to the pool wall. A small beach can be made next to the pool, the horizontal part of the embankment can be faced with decorative flat stones of irregular shape or large pebbles. The slopes of the embankment and the cracks between the stones are laid out with sod or sowed with grass. The pool is filled with clean water: tap, river or well water.

You can make a lawn around the pool. A green grass carpet will decorate the yard, on a hot day, it will cool, and will trap dust and harmful gases. A mixture of herbs is sown on a leveled, fertilized (preferably peat) soil: meadow bluegrass (5 parts), meadow fescue (1 part), bent grass (2 parts, you can add pasture ryegrass). It is better to sow lawn grasses in spring. The seeds are raked into the ground shallowly, the first 8–10 days are watered. The lawn requires constant care, in summer it must be watered, fertilized and mowed so that the height of the grass does not exceed 5–6 cm. Mowing strengthens the root system of plants, destroys annual weeds and weakens the development of perennial weeds. The first time the grass is mowed three weeks after germination.

Swimming pools made of prefabricated prefabricated structures are equipped with water supply and drainage equipment. They are installed on a flat area of \u200b\u200bthe site, disassembled for the winter and put into storage. The diameter of the prefabricated pools is from 5 to 7 m, the depth (height) is 1.2 m.

The construction of the pool involves a lot of excavation work, but it can be significantly reduced. The design of the pool allows you to create a new relief of the site, simplifies the drainage of water and reduces the cost of waterproofing. In addition, the tiled embankment can be used as a solarium. The pool area is usually 10–15 m2. They choose a place and mark the site taking into account the width of the embankment, which, as a rule, is 1/3 of the entire width of the pool. Then the top layer of the soil is removed and trenches are marked for a pit 60 cm deep. The walls are carefully leveled and poured with concrete as soon as possible so that they do not have time to crumble. Before concreting, the outer walls of the trench are covered with sheets of roofing material with an overlap of 20-30 cm, which serve as waterproofing. Their length is taken with a margin so that it would be enough to cover the formwork. Then reinforcement is installed in the form of a coarse mesh.

Fill the trench with concrete, install the formwork and pour the upper part of the walls, leaving a hole for the overflow and drain pipes. Two pieces of asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 100–120 mm are inserted between the walls of the trench. After the concrete "grabs" and acquires sufficient strength, they remove the formwork and dig a pit, simultaneously forming an embankment to the bottom of the walls. At the bottom, crushed stone or gravel is poured and carefully tamped with a layer of 10 cm, after which a layer of sand is placed, leveled and compacted using water. Waterproofing is spread on the surface - roofing material or plastic wrap in several layers, then reinforcement is laid and poured with concrete. The bottom must be done with a slope of 5–6% towards the weir.

The pool is tiled with tiles or cement mortar (1: 2), followed by ironing, the embankment is covered with concrete slabs, and the slope is covered with turf. A removable metal staircase with handrails should also be built. The ladder is installed on four nozzles, two of which are embedded in the bottom, and the other two in the embankment, the handrails are attached to the nozzles with studs.

Before the start of operation, the pool is filled with water for a day, and the water is changed two or three times to remove the unpleasant odor that is emitted by freshly laid concrete.

In the middle of the larger pool, you can make a jacuzzi by connecting a pump and heating to the bath (fig. 27).

Figure: 27. Jacuzzi connection diagram

Decorative pools

The decorative pools are not suitable for swimming. These are garden and park elements that give the park landscape solemnity and elegance, as well as create the effect of reflection of structures, monuments, forms of crowns of decorative trees and shrubs. The sizes of the pools are determined by their location. For optimal visual perception, they should not exceed 1 / 5–1 / 6 of the surrounding area.

The shape of the pools is different (from round, oval, rectangular to free, natural, smooth outlines), the area is from 10 to 50 m 2 and more.

The main building materials are monolithic and precast concrete; stones, ceramic and concrete vases, sculptures, bridges, and passages are used for decoration (Fig. 28).

Figure: 28. Arrangement of a decorative pool with a cascade and aquatic plants

The bottom of the pool is decorated with ceramic tiles in different colors or decorated with mosaics with lighting in the evening. Pools don't have to be too fancy; They are made out with a low concrete or stone side (at the level of the lawn and the site), and the areas around them - with tiled paving and flower vases of simple shapes.

Plants with a clear silhouette of branches, leaves and flowers are arranged around the ornamental pools. These are shrubs (junipers, thuja, Thunberg barberry, etc.), perennial flower plants (irises, berry, funkii, daylily, bell, delphinium, aquilegia, astilba, etc.). Low decorative pools are decorated along the edge with flowering mixborders, perennial plantings flower plants or low coniferous and deciduous shrubs (Fig. 29).

Figure: 29. Decorative pool

To grow aquatic plants, a recess is made in the bottom of the pool, where a metal basket or concrete plate is placed, which is removed for inspection and winter storage of plants. You can also use stones on the bottom with a small layer of greasy soil between them.

Waterfall. A waterfall is a special hydraulic engineering structure, which is a stream of water falling from a height of several meters (Fig. 30). An indispensable condition for the shape of the waterfall is a large width in relation to the height of the jet. Only such a ratio can give the required visual effect.

Figure: thirty. Waterfall

Waterfalls are arranged on sharp declines in the relief, differences of two levels of the future channel, which is created by spillways, stone dams at mandatory condition constant movement of water from the upper terrace to the lower through the spillway.

Different requirements are imposed on the arrangement of a waterfall with regular and landscape planning. The waterfall is the dominant element of the composition, subduing the surrounding space.

In landscape planning, the waterfall should be natural and fit into the landscape. It is especially important to arrange the banks and the channel of the spillway, freely place stones or boulders, picturesquely cut the banks and place trees and shrubs, naturally to bring paths with a dirt or sand and gravel top cover.

With a regular layout, the waterfall is equipped with small architectural forms using solid processed materials: granite, marble, flagstone, tuff of different colors, etc.

Thresholds. These are artificial breakwaters of the bed of a moving stream of water. The rapids are arranged with a heap of large stones in the stream bed on the path of the main stream of water, which breaks against the obstacle, bypasses it with noise and foam and rolls down the river bed.

Cascades. They are smaller than waterfalls, and the water falls in cascades stepwise along the ledges, created according to the principle of architectural and artistic composition.

The intermediate upper platforms of the cascade can have a horizontal or inclined position, which reduces or increases the speed of water movement. In parallel with the cascade, staircases with observation platforms are being built, on which decorative sculptures, ceramic park forms and flower modules with beautifully flowering plants are installed. The cascade is combined with other water devices - fountains, water cannons, etc.

Creating a cascade or rocky stream requires painstaking work. It is better to create a stream on the slope of a large rockery or on a natural slope fortified with stones. It is very important that the structure is not bulky and does not look artificial. To prevent the cascade from looking incomplete, natural stones treated with water are used. The walls of the pools are coated with clay, the bottom is covered with pebbles to hide all traces of their artificial origin. Plants of the coastal zone are planted along the banks: Siberian and Japanese irises, cereals, primroses, caltas, ferns. Carpet species descending to the water, real mosses, look beautiful.

Other hydraulic structures

Channels are called open artificial water conduits that serve specific sports purposes or connect reservoirs along the shortest distance. This assignment of the channels determines their clear geometric shape, which enriches the landscape with linear perspective.

The depth of the channels is 2–4 m; width depends on the width of the rowing, water skiing and powerboat competition lanes established by the rules. The width of the water supply channels is set based on the volume of the transported water per unit of time.

The banks of the canals are fixed with piles (banquet rows), the slopes are reinforced with turf, and the embankment is equipped.

Streams or streams - these are open artificial water conduits that serve as a connecting link between water bodies.

The channels are different in width depending on the turns, branches in the form of arms, backwaters, islands and rapids. The bottom and flooded part of the coast should have a natural or artificial watertight layer with sand and gravel surcharge.

The banks of the channel, due to the weak flow of water, are fixed in the flooded part with masonry or in bulk, in non-flooded - grass clothes, low shrubs and perennial flowers, as a result of which they are a favorite place for waterfowl.

Ditches - These are small artificial open water conduits that serve for temporary or permanent discharge of water and, with the appropriate design of the walls, are a decorative element.

To decorate the channels, flagstone, cobblestone, brick, a wooden antiseptic lattice, and wicker structures are used. Plants are planted along the slopes: daffodils, ferns, hemerocallis, etc. Paths are made along the decorative ditches that give the landscape a natural look and make them more accessible.

"Swamp" - a kind of rocky garden created on a waterlogged area. In swampy areas, it is enough to dig out the soil to a shallow depth; on drier areas, an artificial reservoir is needed.

Soil is poured onto the edges of the reservoir, giving them the shape of low hills. Glacier-rounded granite boulders are dug into the coast around. The stones must be different sizes... They are placed singly or in small groups, and they are dug in almost 3/4 of their height. Boulders should be "sunk" into the ground, as if protruding from the banks and supporting them. Wood snags found in a natural swamp or reservoir look interesting in the "swamp". Since the "swamp" is typical for moist soil, it is possible to lay bridges or a path from wood cuts to it.

"Bog" is planted with marsh plants of local flora: calla (calla marsh), three-leafed watch, cereals. For planting on the banks, only moisture-tolerant plants are also used, and more dry-loving plants are planted between stones on hilly banks. In a composition located in the shade, forest plants are appropriate: dwarf varieties of spruce and thuja, heather (including rhododendrons), ferns.

Industrial and fire-fighting reservoirs - technical structures used in an arid and hot climate for irrigating plants and creating comfortable conditions for the recreation of visitors to a garden and park facility. Water bodies of this type include irrigation ditches with spray devices and water curtains enclosing recreation sites, decorative water bodies with numerous fountain streams and lighting in the evening.

Registration of reservoirs

For the design of natural and artificial reservoirs, as well as for improving the composition of water, aquatic plants are used, which, depending on the growing conditions, are:

Floating (yellow water lily, white water rose, fragrant water rose, water nut, etc.);

Shallow water (calamus marsh, calla, golden iris, bitter shamrock, sultan, etc.);

Coastal (forget-me-nots, canary grass, common reed, primrose, etc.).

IN artificial reservoirs aquatic plants are grown in containers that are lowered to the bottom in specially designated areas.

To do this, the containers are filled with a mixture of sheet earth, clay and medium-grained sand (in equal proportions).

All water devices require systematic care: daily in the summer and periodically in the spring-winter-autumn period.

Debris must be removed immediately from the surface of the water.

It is necessary to monitor the condition of the banks, the body of dams, cascades, fountains, etc., and repair faulty structures immediately.

Reservoirs should be promptly cleaned in order to avoid overgrowing of the water mirror with aquatic vegetation, which is regularly removed by rakes and transported to the shore in boats, and then composted in pits.

Overhaul consists in cleaning the bottom and underwater part of the reservoir from the accumulated silt, which appears due to the ingress of a sheet and the smallest solid dust particles.

Cleaning of reservoirs is best carried out in autumn-winter and early spring, when the flow of visitors is sharply reduced. To do this, in late autumn, after installing permanent ice, water is pumped out. The ice is lowered onto the ground and, with the help of an excavator with a backhoe (into the face), together with the silt, it is transported on dump trucks to the storage sites and subsequent use.

In shallow reservoirs with water discharge devices, the bottom is cleaned in 2–3 years. Simultaneously with the cleaning of reservoirs with the onset of constant heat, all disturbed coastal areas are repaired: lawns, paths and playgrounds.

In spring and summer, it is necessary to monitor the installation of stones on the thresholds: in case of violation of the composition, the stones are corrected.

It is necessary to closely monitor the water exchange regime in the pools: to recirculate the water, if there are devices for its purification and disinfection, or to change the entire volume of water daily. Flowing water exchange should be 25–30% of the hourly water consumption per shift.

Lighting of decorative pools and fountains should be the subject of close attention, as it also participates in the evening lighting of the surrounding area.

It is enough to disturb one or two lamps or searchlights so that not only the conceived effect of evening illumination disappears, but also part of the territory disappears in the darkness.

Aquatic plants also need care. Aquatic plants are pruned and partially removed to avoid overgrowth, self-suppression and death.

Plants are thinned 2-3 times a year with the removal of rhizomes.

IN winter time reservoirs and pools are protected from complete freezing, for which they make ice holes with pumping excess water through them and then insulating them.

Small decorative ponds with vegetation are completely covered for the winter with insulation materials: peat, dry leaves. In the spring, with the onset of the first days with a positive temperature, the heaters are removed.

If the reservoir is large enough, the control of aquatic vegetation can be the maintenance of herbivorous fish in the reservoir.

Fountains are artificial devices for knocking out jets of water from a special hole. Streams of water pour and fall at different heights, at different slopes, spray different ways... A jet, pillar, streams or individual drops of water create an infinite number of variants of fountains (Fig. 31). The maximum height of the water jets should not exceed half the diameter of the bowl of the fountain, since with a higher jet height and strong wind water spills into the surrounding area, preventing visitors from accessing the fountain. The water consumption in the fountains of the landscape gardening facility should not exceed 50-60 l / s. Water supply to fountains can be carried out:

From a city water supply or local source using a pump, and sometimes by gravity;

From the reservoir in which the fountain is arranged using a pump.

Figure: 31.Types of fountains

Water discharge is organized into an open flume, a storm sewer network, or a circulating water supply or water recirculation is created.

To free the bowl of the fountain from water for the winter period, its bottom is made with a slope towards the point of release.

There are fountains of the most different forms... Colored asphalt and concrete are used for their decoration, ceramic tiles, minting.

Parks often have wall fountains with multiple catchment basins.

Fountains are also arranged without catchment basins, where the water looks like a curtain or a thin film. Such structures consist of a metal plate or concrete slab on a support with a pipe through which water rises.

Water gushes very weakly over the surface of the slab or plate, covers it with a thin film and, flowing along the perimeter, forms a water curtain, after which it goes into the drainage layer of pebbles.

One of the interesting forms is a fountain without a bowl, which is created directly on the lawn and represents separate jets with special lighting.

Springs, springs and springs. Springs, or springs, are the simplest fountain structures built on the site of natural springs and used both as decorative elements and for economic purposes (a means of water supply for the territory).

A spring is a low bowl - a log house or a stone structure without a bottom, from which spring water is poured or into which is poured.

In the second case, a retaining stone or decorative wall is built with a spillway from the source built into it.

Drinking fountains... Small devices in the form of miniature fountains different design serve to decorate and quench thirst.

They consist of a foundation, a water supply system with a drain cock and a fountain device, a pedestal with a drain bowl and a drainage system. The height of the cabinet is 65–90 cm.

Sprinkler installations. Fountain, or sprinkler, installations on lawns and flower beds are sprinklers - designs with blades and holes for the supply and spray of water. Installations on the union of watering taps or hoses or paddle rotors are used. Under the influence of water pressure, they come into motion, evenly supplying water around them for 1.5-2.5 m.

Such installations create a halo of light and the smallest fog, which allows you to admire the rainbow every day. The easiest way to arrange such an installation is to punch small holes in a plastic pipe, lay it on the ground with the holes up and supply water. The height of the spray is controlled by the pressure of the water. Such devices are installed on a permanent watering network of the water supply system or fixed on the watering hose fitting and, as the plantings are irrigated, they are transferred to another place with overlapping the irrigation area.

Fence made of poles and wire

A simple, cheap, and beautiful fence can be made with poles and wire that is nailed to the outside of the poles.

Such a fence will be stronger if the lower ends of the dry poles, which will then be dug into the ground, are tarred, and the nails, staples and wire are coated with oil paint. It is desirable to paint the sawn-off ends of the poles with the same paint in order to protect them from moisture. However, if the poles are fresh, chances are they will take root and create a hedge.

The wire will stretch better and the fence will be stronger if you make supports for the posts and stakes. Stones are placed under the lower ends of the props or props are driven into pits filled with rubble. For the support pillars of the fence, a pit is dug out of a somewhat larger size than the diameter of the pillars and filled with rubble and fragments of stones. For the manufacture of a fence, you can use old slats, tying them from above and below with thick wire. The sections of the fence woven in this way are nailed to the posts dug in at a distance of 2-3 m from each other.

The bottom ends of the wooden fence poles can be soaked in resin or paint. You can use for this a piece of pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the poles. The pipe is fixed in a thick wire tripod, its lower end is placed on a brick, filled with resin and heated over a fire. The lower ends of the poles are immersed in the melted resin and kept for several minutes so that they have time to soak.

This text is an introductory fragment. From the book The Moon and the Blooming Garden author Semenova Anastasia Nikolaevna

We put a fence on the lunar calendar Be sure to focus on the features of the lunar rhythms. See which tree better fit for a fence, when you need to harvest wood and process it. We talk about all this in the corresponding chapters. It's worth setting up fences

From the book Dacha. What and how can you build? author Bannikov Evgeny Anatolievich

Wooden fence This is the most short-lived type of fence, its service life is no more than 8-12 years, depending on the climate and the quality of the wood. However, wooden fences are cheap and do not require special construction costs (Figure 20). Figure: 20. Construction of a wooden

From the book Garden furniture for a country house author Melnikov Ilya

Fence made of mesh Compared to a picket fence, such a fence lasts longer and does not block the plants from light. Poles for a mesh fence can be any: steel, asbestos-cement, reinforced concrete or wood. It is not necessary to cement them, although pouring the base does

From the book Practical homemade products for giving with your own hands author The team of authors

A fence made of mesh on concrete pillars This type of fence is the most durable and convenient for summer cottages and garden plots. They combine reliability, economy and ease of installation. Ready-made mesh fence sections are available for sale, but they can

From the book Garden and vegetable garden for those who are over ... without unnecessary effort author

A mesh fence with wood veins or metal frames. When installing such a fence, it is not necessary to reinforce the corners. However, sometimes the mesh has to be joined from several pieces. You can separate (unscrew) the outermost wire, attach the ends of two

From the book Blooming garden simply and easily. Green and beautiful plot all year round author Kizima Galina Alexandrovna

Wooden fence This is the most popular and most short-lived type of fences, since in a relatively short time (8 - 12 years, depending on the soil and climate), the pillars rot, the horizontal structures (veins) deteriorate, despite all the measures taken. Yet many

From the book Flower Garden for the Lazy. Flowers from the last snow to the first frost author Kizima Galina Alexandrovna

Mechanized water intake from a source All "landowners" know that mechanized water intake for irrigation is associated with high energy costs, and therefore financial. Therefore, the ability to reduce energy costs naturally attracts many

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Fruit picker made of wire (A.M. Stetsko) A craftsman made 2 figures of different shapes from wire (diameter 4 - 5 mm), tied them together and tied them to a pole. I attached a fine mesh net to the fruit picker. Wire picker. 1 and 2 - parts of the fruit picker, 3 - combined

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Wire frame Such a frame is made of wire with a cross section of 4 - 5 mm. The distance between the bows is 80 - 100 cm. To prevent the film from sagging, a wire is pulled along the top of the bows, but with a smaller section (2 - 3 mm). For the stability of the frame and the convenience of its transfer, the lower ends

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Fence made of spruce The cheapest and simplest fence can be made of ordinary spruce. However, if you are not feeling well or are tired, you should not be near the spruce. If you are planting spruce as a green fence, then the distance between trees should be 80-100 cm. To

From the author's book

From the author's book

From the author's book

Thuja Fence A fairly fast growing and durable fence can be made from western thuja. Surprisingly plastic, hardy and unpretentious plant. This one (and preferably more than one) should be created in any, even the smallest garden. But even having only one

From the author's book

Spruce Fence The cheapest and simplest fence can be made of ordinary spruce. However, if you feel unwell or are tired, you should not be near the spruce. If you are planting spruce as a green fence, then the distance between trees should be 80-100 cm. To

From the author's book

Thuja Fence A fairly fast growing and durable fence can be made from western thuja. Surprisingly plastic, hardy and unpretentious plant. This one (and preferably more than one) should be created in any, even the smallest garden. But even having only one

Garden buildings made of unsharpened poles bring the charm of rustic simplicity and comfort to the garden. They so organically "dissolve" in nature that they become its integral part.

For a master who equips his garden according to his own idea and dreams of special, "not like everyone else's" fences, gazebos, gates and per-gates, the ideal building material is untreated poles that retain the natural, living lines of the tree and beautiful bark. No matter how hard you try, you can't find two identical ones among the unshaded poles. Buildings made from such material are absolutely unique. They fit perfectly into the garden, designed in a rustic style, called "rustic" for the slight roughness.


gifts of nature
In the sawn timber markets, it is easy to find pine poles of different diameters up to 6-8 m long.Material for small buildings can be prepared independently: for this purpose, illiquid wood from the undergrowth, for example, a hazel bush growing in solid thickets and requiring periodic thinning, is suitable. Hazel poles are thinner and shorter than pine ones, no more than 3 meters in length. The bark of the hazel is not as expressive as that of the pine.

protection from decay
In order for the building to be durable, the lower ends of the poles must be tarred or dipped in used engine oil for 30-40 minutes. Each wooden part is dipped at one end into the melted resin and kept in it for 5-7 minutes. The lower parts of the racks can be left in the bucket with the compound overnight so that the ends are thoroughly soaked. A good remedy for decay is burning wood with a blowtorch flame. To protect the upper cuts of the poles from rain, they are coated with oil paint. She also processes metal fasteners - wire and staples.

fences
The most common version of rustic structures made of poles is light fences and picket fences. The basis of the fence is made up of pillars and horizontal veins attached to them, onto which the poles are then nailed vertically. By varying the height and density of the poles, you can turn the fence into a real palisade. With the help of short, cut at an angle, various geometric patterns can be created between the posts and veins. Round or split-length poles, fastened with galvanized wire, form a "roll fence". All that is needed to install it is to roll out the "track", cut off the excess and attach it to the posts.

open the gate on the sly
The completed look of the fence made of poles will be given by the "village" gate. The gate is constantly opened and closed; therefore, it must have a solid frame. The supporting structure can be assembled from poles or, for greater reliability, built from a planed bar with a section of 5 x 5 cm. The parts are connected with 50 mm screws and reinforced with steel corners. On the outside of the frame, pieces of poles are applied and drilled with self-tapping screws.

The protruding ends are leveled with a saw or left as they are. The gate looks more neat, which is a frame filled with pieces of poles. To install them on the inner surface of the frame, guides are drilled.

choose wisely
Poles are thin long tree trunks stripped of twigs and branches, the thickness of which at the upper end without bark is 3-7 cm.
They are suitable for light buildings; in serious structures, the poles are combined with thicker trunks-pillars with a thickness of 6-13 cm and thin logs with a diameter of 14-24 cm. Pillars and thin logs are used to create a constructive basis for buildings, thin poles are used for filling elements.
The structure is stiffened with numerous diagonal struts and lintels.
For decoration, you can also use knotty "gnarled" branches - they will give the structure a picturesque, slightly "wild" look.

The rapid deterioration of the environment prompts a large number of people to return to natural materials and food. Today, naturalness is in trend not only in the interiors of a house or apartment. Landscape designers and ordinary owners of summer cottages are increasingly choosing natural materials to create cozy, safe fences for flower beds, flower beds or space zoning.

A fence made of poles is suitable for a garden in country or Provence styles, and can also perform not only the function of decoration, but also serve as a fence for the entire site. It is economical and easy to build, original, but at the same time authentic, organic as a temporary or permanent fence, ideal for organizing an open hedge.

Popular types of pole fences

Depending on the purpose of use, you can choose the type of wooden fence. Wood and stone are the first materials that people began to use for fencing, and a rich history of their use has left many examples of interesting, aesthetic, functional solutions.

The simplest wooden fence can be built without observing symmetry and without following any order. She will look cute too. But if you adhere to a certain system, the fence will turn out to be even more beautiful. The rods stretch between the supporting elements, and they, in turn, can be fastened horizontally, vertically (like a palisade) or even diagonally. Finally, even a wire tie can be the basis.

Cross Pole Fence - Ranch

A hedge made of strong, long, fairly thick poles with a cut diameter of five to seven centimeters can give the site an authentic look of an American ranch. It represents support pillars with three long horizontal beams that play the role of transverse lags, and flexible rods are interwoven between them at will. The cost of such a fence is low; no special skills are required for installation.

This type of fence is so functional that to this day it is used for fencing on cattle farms and stud farms, and the attractive appearance of the fence made it popular for framing houses. Often the crossbeam structure supports the green hedge.

The Slavic version of a wooden fence made of poles is typical for the countryside. Depending on the length of the poles, it can be used for flower bed decoration, garden zoning or as a garden fence. To extend the service life, the end of each trunk must be treated with an antiseptic and soaked in bitumen.

Non-standard solution of the fence fence. The rods, up to 2 meters long, are attached to the supports at an angle of 45 °. Non-trivial, simple to execute, such a fence is a good alternative to the ubiquitous chain-link mesh. Interestingly, a tree set at an angle is less susceptible to rotting processes. A light end-to-end fence made of diagonal poles around the perimeter will perfectly decorate any area and will serve as a good functional protection against the entry of animals.

A fence made of thin and flexible poles, consisting of wicker rods, is the most aesthetic version of wooden fences. Thin straight tree trunks that bend well are suitable for weaving.

It is not at all difficult to install a wicker fence made of poles with your own hands, but it will take a little practice so that the twigs lie flat. Preparatory stage very important to the end result. The poles must be chosen as close as possible in size. Their diameter should be no more than two centimeters, otherwise it will be difficult to weave them. The rods must be chosen even, the knots must be removed. To increase the flexibility of the wood, the material can be soaked in a mild antiseptic solution overnight. The prepared poles are pulled between the dug-in (or reinforced in another way) support posts in a given order. The result is a neat continuous canvas of branches.

Advantages and disadvantages

The tree trunk fencing is versatile. It is capable of performing the functions of an external boundary perimeter of the site or being an element of internal zoning. Like any hedge material, the structure of a rail fence has its pros and cons.

Advantages of the described type of fence:

• cheapness. Twigs, like woody illiquid stock, are quite inexpensive. And if there are fattening trees in the garden or a nearby forest belt that require sanitary pruning, the material for the fence can be prepared without any costs;
• easy to install. A picket fence made of poles is so easy to install that it can be done alone;
• aesthetic appearance. An original wattle fence, a diagonal fence or a classic American ranch rail fence will be an excellent decoration of the site. They perfectly assimilate with any rural landscape or imitate country style;
• environmental friendliness. Natural materials do not harm the environment and are safe for health;
• strength and stability. Despite the lightness and even the seeming "flimsy", such a structure is quite strong and able to withstand external influences, in particular, winds.

Disadvantages of a rail fence:

• fragility. Fences made from natural, untreated wood have a short lifespan and require regular replacement every five to six years. There is a simple rule - the thicker the rods, the more they will last;
• specificity of use. Rustic fence is hardly suitable for a modern high-tech home;
• unreliability. A fence made of twigs will protect the area from stray dogs, but a fence made of poles will not be able to serve as a safe shelter from unscrupulous people.

There is one more obvious property of a fence made of twigs, which, depending on the requirements put forward for the fence, can be attributed to both advantages and disadvantages. This is its transparency. If desired, such a hedge over time easily turns into a solid one. To do this, climbing plants are planted along it, which perfectly hide what is happening in a private area from prying eyes.

DIY fence made of poles

The installation algorithm is quite simple. As many summer residents say, to build a fence from poles, there is enough scrap materials and a basic set of tools.

The procedure for installing the fence is as follows.

• A plot for the fence is marked, its length is measured.
• The amount of material is calculated. It should be borne in mind that the standard step between the supports is one and a half meters.
• Part of the support pillars, which will be dug into the ground, is tarred.
• With a hand drill, holes are drilled for supports, 50 cm deep. Partially they need to be covered with sand-gravel mixture (ASM).
• Supports are installed, ASG is poured in and compacted.
• Rods are attached to the supports.

A light end-to-end fence built of poles will mark the boundaries of the site, while not hiding the beauty of the garden and complementing the landscape design. it perfect solution for country-style gardens and low-maintenance plantings.