Garden and vegetable garden planning. Orchard: rules for planning a garden and choosing trees

It often happens that the space of the garden is organized: on the first impulse, under the influence of emotions or under the influence of advertising, seedlings, flowers, accessories are bought, and then all this is placed randomly on the site or according to the principle “like everyone else”. How will it all end? One and the same: it will soon turn out that almost everything was out of place, and as a result, the site is ugly and uncomfortable.

To get what you want, you need to act like professionals from the very beginning - competently plan your garden. There is no other way, only advance planning allows you to get the garden you dream of.

Dinner Zone

groenbedrijflimburg.be

What kind of garden do you dream of? This is where you need to stop. This is the first professional step. You need to determine what kind of garden you need, and very specifically and "materially". To do this, start with yourself.

Take a blank sheet of paper and in a calm atmosphere think and write down: what you like and what you don’t, what are your needs, hobbies, family traditions, how you spend your leisure time, what inspires you, what you want to achieve. It is important. Let each member of your family make such a record, such a “research” will then help you in choosing specific options.

Resting-place

flowerpower.com.au

Now it's time to assemble the "family council". Gather together and have everyone make a list of their wishes for what they would like to have on the site. First, abstract from the size of the site, as well as whether it is new or already has plantings and buildings on it. Do not limit your imagination, write down everything you want: a bathhouse, a gazebo, orchard, garden, patio, rock garden, alpine slide, pond, workshop ... For children, you will probably need a playground, for older family members - a cozy bench. And where there is a garden, there is a barn and a compost heap. Discuss your lists together and roughly estimate the area for everything planned out. It is quite natural that everything will not fit on the site. Therefore, you need to go through the lists a few more times and cross off everything that you can do without, and this is where your first list will help you - a list of your personal priorities.

The location of the beds

sustainablenovato.org

You have identified your "objects of desire". The next step is to create a "collection of ideas". To do this, you need a bright folder with pocket files. Gradually put into it all the “images” that are related to your future “design project”: magazine clippings, photographs, drawings, samples of flower beds, arbors, original ideas, color solutions, materials from exhibitions. At first, do not analyze the feasibility, complexity - just collect whatever you like. The most unexpected solutions will come, not necessarily in the same versions as in your “collection”, and your unique version will form from this “kaleidoscope”.

Well, now - you are ready to proceed directly to planning. After all, now you know your dream “by sight”. When planning, you need to consider whether you have a completely new site, or an already inhabited garden. The dream garden is real for you anyway. A fully inhabited garden can also be redesigned one hundred percent, it's all about the technique used.

shrubs

Use very effective method which does not require special skills and abilities. It's called "the method of kálek".

1. The boundaries of the garden. Take a blank sheet of paper and draw the boundaries of your area. To do this, you will need graph paper (scale 1:100, which means that a meter on the site corresponds to a centimeter on paper. This will be the most convenient scale for you). You can take plain white paper and use a scale ruler (such rulers are sold with different scales, choose the one with 1:100). You will also need pencils (simple and colored), a compass, a square, a ruler, tracing paper, a tape measure and a compass. Before drawing, measure the sides of the plot with a tape measure. By the way, if you don’t know how to draw at all, documents for your site will help you - there should be a scale plan, its configuration. You just have to enlarge them to the desired, larger scale.

Stone as a material for improvised buildings

foudejardins.com

2. Garden zoning. Here you need to determine which zones (parts of the garden) will be located where and what size they will be. Zones always have some function and usually distinguish: a residential area (house, summer house, summer kitchen, patio, etc.), recreation areas (gazebo, barbecue area, pond, swimming pool), utility areas (garden, vegetable garden, barn, garage, workshop, etc.). But this is only indicative, and you yourself can “establish” any zones, since you already have your own wishes.

Zones should be noted on your "design project". But not on the sheet of paper where you drew the boundaries of the site! Take a few sheets of tracing paper for this. Transfer your original plan to tracing paper in several copies and mark the zones on one of them. They are drawn as abstract spots of arbitrary shape. Sign them. Consider the resulting option. It is possible that questions will arise where it is better to place any zone, for example, a gazebo. And you have just a few cripples. Estimate this way and that, compare the options, move the tracing paper along the main plan and immediately see the best one. So, gradually, you will receive a complete plan of zones (and determine their size according to your needs). At this stage, priority is given to practicality and rationality, because even the most spectacular design is unlikely to please you if it is uncomfortable on the site.

catwalks

3. Tracks. Draw them on the paper. First, mark the intended routes of your movement with arrows, and then draw the outlines of the tracks along them with lines. Their exact width and shape can be added later. The main criterion is to be comfortable. For decorative reasons, do not make all the tracks absolutely even, let there be a slight bend. Loop them around the garden - connect them into a single route. This is both convenient and practical; this is one of the techniques of landscape architecture.

4. Trees and shrubs. Draw them on the tracing paper in circles of the appropriate size, for this, ask in the reference books what size the crown of the trees you have chosen in adulthood and what distance they need when planting. General recommendation in terms of placement, this is: taller plants - in the lower part of the site, flowering ones - closer to the recreation areas. Shrubs, including berry bushes, can frame the path, conifers can be fenced off from the prevailing winds.

5. Flower beds. Draw everything on the next tracing paper, as there will be many options! Arrange them however you like, but don't forget about lighting requirements. Place for roses - in front of the house and on the south side, conifers and heathers are good in rock gardens, give the entrance to the site to plants that bloom longer than others.

Garden furniture

6. Vertical gardening. We draw it with conditional icons also on tracing paper. Choose your types vertical gardening that you like: screens, arches, trellises, pergolas, etc.

7. Garden accents. Place accents on a schematic plan: garden accessories, containers with plants, think over lighting, spectacular details. In a word, give the site a "zest".

Well, now - the most exciting moment! By combining all your tracing papers, you will get a plan for your dream garden.

patio

www.meaningfullife.com

Here the same method is used, but with some peculiarities.

1. Analysis of existing conditions. At the very beginning of planning, you should draw the boundaries of the garden. But then follows an analysis of the existing conditions - what is “given” to you. You need to draw a site plan as it is now. So, you have drawn the boundaries of the site, and now put on this plan all those objects that already exist on it (trees, buildings, etc.). The resulting plan of what is "given" now needs to be supplemented. This means - to identify the individual characteristics of your site. Mark the cardinal directions on the plan, determining them with the help of a compass - this is very important for the correct orientation of future plantings and buildings, this is your light "climate". Mark all the features of the microrelief - depressions, elevations, irregularities and sign them. Draw with an arrow the direction of the slope, if any. Evaluate its angle by eye. Pay attention to the landscape around you, the proximity of the forest, reservoir, road, how beautiful the views from the site are, to the buildings of the neighbors. Directly on the plan, sign what you would like to hide, and what, on the contrary, to reveal. Draw the objects on the plan simple geometric shapes- circles, rectangles of the appropriate size, preferably colored.

If your garden is inhabited, you know a lot about it. Therefore, be sure to mark on the plan the direction of the prevailing winds, the “movement schedule” of shadows during the day, the location of the warmest and coldest places (those where frost is guaranteed and snow stays longer). It would be very good, of course, to find out the level of groundwater and the composition of the soil (approximately, an accurate analysis is not needed).

It is very good to use a camera when analyzing the existing conditions. It will be very convenient to take pictures of some corners of your estate in order to always have food for thought before your eyes and not miss a single detail.

decorative lantern

mimimiamiliving.com

2. Zoning of a habitable garden. The main thing when zoning is to take into account those individual features that you identified at the first step: the relief, the surrounding landscape, existing buildings, and climatic features. If from somewhere it opens especially beautiful view- it is logical to make a recreation area there if there is a low or depression - best place not to be found for a pond. The most important design secret: most of the minuses of your site are actually pluses, this is luck, this is your individual style, it is thanks to them that your site will become unique!

flower border

www.homesandland.com

If the site has already been developed, there are buildings and plantings, then you need to consider each "object" as far as it suits you and fits into the new zoning. There is no need to be afraid of cardinal changes, since everything can always be adapted to new conditions, there are special decorative techniques for this.

All subsequent five steps- plan paths, plants, flower beds, vertical gardening and garden accents on separate tracing papers in the same way as when planning a new garden. But before that, having completed the zoning, mark on the tracing paper only those objects that you would like to leave in the garden, and abstract from the rest - do not transfer them to your project.

With the acquisition of a land plot, the owner has to deal with the zoning of the territory. Now there are many specialists in this field who, with the help of professional techniques, can create beauty. The layout of the garden can be done independently, if you familiarize yourself with the features of this work. After all, on the site you can plant not only trees, but also shrubs, vegetable crops. More information about the design of the territory is described in the article.

Preparation

The garden should be located in the open sun on a site with a high presence of groundwater. It should not be laid in a lowland, where cold air and water will flow during the spring flood.

After an external inspection of the territory, the following work should be planned:

1. Cleaning the territory from old stumps, wild shrubs, stones, other debris.
2. The area needs to be dug deep.
3. Needs to be watered for weeds to emerge. After germination, you need to perform deep cultivation and level the site.
4. In parallel, you need to give the soil to the laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, chemical composition. This is required for further care: use of fertilizers, irrigation, other agrotechnical procedures.
5. Based on the results of the analysis, it is necessary to introduce the necessary doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for autumn processing. Without these data, fertilizer is undesirable.

What is important to consider before planning?

Before planning a garden, you need to take into account some of the nuances:

1. What area can be allocated for an orchard. Trees with spreading crowns need a distance of 4 square meters. m.
2. Terrain relief. A flat area or a gentle slope is suitable for an orchard, there is cold air in the pits, a lot of moisture, these areas are unfavorable for fruit trees.
3. Analysis of soils of the territory. Fruit crops have a strong root system, fertile soils are needed to ensure good nutrition. For garden area rocky, clayey, sandy soil is not suitable. The proximity of groundwater has a negative effect on the growth of trees.
4. The presence of light and heat. fruit trees need required amount light and heat, as in the shade their growth slows down. Terrain with strong winds will not be entirely suitable, as it interferes with proper pollination, dries out the ground, damages crops and breaks branches. Partial protection against it is a high fence or green spaces.

Layout features

Garden planning begins with paper diagrams. If there is a house on the territory, planning should be carried out from it. A diagram of the site, the contours of the object and other buildings, as well as places where there are trees are applied to the paper. This area is protected by trees planted around.

If the land is not built up, a site for building a house is applied to the scheme. The layout of the garden suggests the presence of a front garden. Housing should face the street, in front of it is located part of the land for the front garden. Its size is determined by the area of ​​the territory.

On a small front garden, you need to plant flowers, berry bushes, on a large one - decorative and fruit trees, flowers. Large fruit plants - apple trees, pears - it is advisable to plant in the northeastern part. Between them should be cherries and plums.

Plan

In order to have the correct layout of the garden and vegetable garden, you need to create sketches of the site. In the plan, you need to indicate the buildings, the approximate location of the remaining objects. It is necessary to mark the holes for planting bushes and trees. They should be planted at a distance so that they do not shade as they grow.

Closely spaced bushes and trees do not grow well, moreover, this leads to diseases of horticultural crops. Fruit trees have a powerful root system, it should develop freely. If there are wild shrubs, stumps that should be uprooted on the territory, all work must be done and the wood residues must be burned. The ash must be left in a dry place, it will be required to obtain fertile beds.

The layout of the garden on the site should be such that the trees do not obscure neighboring plots. Today, beds are fashionable original form, for example, pizza garden. In this case, the rest are located in the center from the round beds in the center. Near the boundaries of the site planted raspberries, blackberries, berry bushes bearing fruit and shade.

What crops to choose?

When planning an orchard, you need to decide on the types of plants. It is necessary to choose trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in the area. For middle lane pears, apple trees, plums, cherry plums, cherries are selected. Cherries and apricots grow better in warm regions.

From berry bushes, you can choose currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. Planning a garden on 10 acres is much easier than with a large area. With a small area, it is preferable to place shrubs around the perimeter. On vegetable beds, it is necessary to plant crops that grow close to each other: cabbage, cucumbers, peas.

Popular types of layout

The garden planning project will allow you to create an original site. There are currently 4 designs available:

1. Rectilinear. This option is not only beautiful, but also simple. This arrangement allows you to restore order on the site. This type of design allows you to get the effect of reducing space.
2. Circular arrangement. To get it, you need skills in landscape design. This design will allow you to create an orchard and flower beds, and it is more difficult to use it for a vegetable garden.
3. Diagonal. In this way, you can arrange a garden plot of 15 acres and above. With the help of a diagonal orientation, a visual volume is obtained. It allows you to arrange the location of different areas.
4. Creative option. There are no specific rules here. Usually it contains elements of other types. It is used for areas with a special configuration.

Each layout option is original in its own way. Before implementing the project, it is necessary to draw it on paper. If land is purchased with some buildings and plantings that you do not want to remove, then they must be marked first.

Communications

The layout of a personal plot, garden, orchard is not complete without communications equipment. Systems facilitate the operation and maintenance of the territory, improve functionality. They will create additional conditions.

For organization garden plot drainage systems, sewerage, organization of the passage of the gas pipeline and water supply are required. A well, septic tank or well is also required. These engineering objects must be located at a sufficient distance from each other. There must be a system street lighting. Electrical wiring must be carried out at a depth of 70 cm. Laying should be done before planting plants and arranging garden paths.

Recreation area

If the territory has been divided into an orchard, it is necessary to determine a place to rest. Even in a small area, you can place a modest, but harmoniously inscribed gazebo. It should be beautiful and comfortable. In large areas, it will be possible to create a summer kitchen, a swimming pool, an observation deck and so on.

The list of ideas is limited only by the possibilities of the area and the desire of the owner. But in any case, the recreation area should be in a comfortable place, not interfere with other areas. It is preferable to remove it from economic blocks and communications.

Planting hole preparation

The layout of a small garden and a large plot requires proper planting. And this must be done according to certain rules. The garden should be planted in the fall. It is necessary to dig a planting hole according to the scheme, prepare fertilizers for the soil.

The pit will be of approximate size, since the final version is set on the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the seedling. The approximate size of the pit is 60x60 if the seedlings are 2-year-old, and for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm.

Soil preparation

Near each pit, mix the top layer of earth with humus and peat. In the spring, before planting, 1 glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska are added to the mixture. Everything should be thoroughly mixed. Seedlings must be purchased from trusted manufacturers.

Acquisition and preparation of seedlings

Landing must be done in the spring. During the growing season, seedlings grow stronger. Young trees get used to a new location during the warm period. You should not buy seedlings from unfamiliar sellers. It is advisable to do this in farms that are engaged in their cultivation. Then it is more likely that a zoned variety will be purchased. It is necessary to inspect the acquired seedling. You should not take it if it has dry roots, a crooked trunk, cracks in the bark.

Landing

There are rules for planting seedlings. 1-2 days before that, they must be soaked in horse wine or another growth stimulant. Then you need to prepare a container of clay talker with root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides used for tank mixes are also suitable.

2-3 weeks before planting, you need to fill up part of the soil mixture with a cone in a hole. During this time, the cone will settle and the seedling will be correctly placed in the hole. It must be dipped into a mash, inserted into a hole, straightened the root so that there are no creases. 2/3 of the hole is filled with soil mixture.

It is necessary to fill a bucket of water. After soaking, you need to fill in the rest of the soil mixture or soil. You should drive a stake and fix the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling will break off small roots.

The subtleties of landing

During planting, you need to check the correct depth of the root neck. With deepening, the tree dries out after 5-10 years. With lungs sandy soils it is desirable to deepen the root neck a little into the soil - by 10 cm. For seedlings that form roots or shoots, deepening will not interfere with the proper development of the plant. Such cultures quickly rebuild the root system.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be in the area of ​​the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher. And in the vaccinated, the grafting site is 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse these places. It is necessary to pay attention to planting, because with errors the tree quickly dies.

If the root neck is correctly determined and the seedling is planted so that it is 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. It is necessary to compact the kidney near the landing. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, you need to make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 buckets of water.

The root neck should be 2-3 cm higher than the soil. If necessary, you can add soil after watering and mulch with a layer of fine mulch. If live seedlings are purchased and the planting is carried out correctly, then after 2-3 weeks the first leaves will appear.

Definition of the root collar

1. At young seedling with a damp cloth, wipe the lower region of the trunk and root. The root neck can be established by the transition from greenish to light brown.
2. In adult seedlings (3-4 years old), you need to wipe the lower area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe trunk with a wet cloth and, after drying, scrape off the bark with a knife. If in the expansion area the shade of the subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root part. The place of color transition is considered to be the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This will be the root collar.

What is forbidden to do when landing?

1. Apply semi-rotted manure, only humus with soil.
2. Water frequently with a small amount of water. This dries out the soil.
3. Use cold water for irrigation.
4. Fertilize the plants the first year.
5. After planting, mulch the near-stem area.

What do you need to do when landing?

1. Seedlings should be whitewashed with a solution of chalk with clay, biological products from diseases and pests.
2. Insulate the target with burlap, paper, lutrasil.
3. The netting will protect the trunk from rodents.
4. After a snowfall, trample down the snow near the trunk.

Thus, the layout of the garden involves competent zoning of the territory. It should have trees, shrubs, an area for recreation. Also needed proper fit plants in compliance with all regulations. Then you get a beautiful garden, created according to the rules of landscape design.

The Earth for us is a natural wealth that fed our grandfathers and parents. Today, only a small percentage of people manage to interact with it directly - coming to summer cottages a couple of tens of kilometers away, living in rural settlements or their own a private house in the city. All these options often converge on one thing - cultivation work, weed removal, planting of cultivated plants and (or) ... Sometimes, all these things are carried out on the "weekend", after working working days. But, after all, you also need to relax, go out to the summer terrace or just stand on the edge of the garden and contemplate how you were able to properly plan the garden on your site.

Of course, while the endless expanses of the snow cover are in front of you, you don’t really “plan”, but there is a warm blanket, a cozy chair, you have brewed delicious tea for yourself and you can just start to decide from a theoretical point of view how you want to plan the garden.

If you decide, you can give everyone square meter the land is such that cultivated plants will give up to 15% -20% more yield, the flowers will be slimmer, and the eye will only rejoice

Based on this, we offer you the following theses, which We will reveal during our “journey” in planning a “workspace”:

• We decide on the landing plan;
• We form the correct dimensions and position of the beds;
• Alternation of cultures - what is it and what is eaten with;
• Combined landing;
• Crop rotation and many other "topical" issues and their solutions.

Bed planning

Soil in the garden

We are sure that you, as an experienced person in terms of the annual selection of crops grown on your site, know that in order to plan them, you need to know which soil in the garden is more suitable for a particular variety or variety. And if earlier this was done “by eye”, now it is necessary to correctly determine the soil composition, which means that it is imperative to find out acidity (pH).

This is quite simple to do - take samples taken in the garden to a special laboratory. Be sure, for a more accurate composition, you need to take several samples from different parts of it. If you do not want to wait a long time, pay, or are just interested, and Can this test be done at home?, we answer - albeit not so accurate, but possible. To do this, take the same “samples”, mix them thoroughly to get a literally homogeneous mass and pour some into a jar or other container. Next, pour some vinegar and see the result. There will be 2 of them, and each will point to its designation:

• On a soil sample, when in contact with vinegar, bubbles appear, which will mean neutral pH;
• The vinegar will soak into the ground with no visible reaction, which will determine acidic pH soil.

Let's say right away that this is not the most accurate analysis, but it allows you to quickly and more clearly highlight this important issue.

Planning rules or how to plan a garden

In addition to the composition of the soil, plan a site the competent arrangement of those several beds that you are already “sorting out” in your imagination will help. Here are some rules to help you with this:

• Most the best option garden location - flat terrain. In cases where the site is on a slope, choose the southern or southeastern part;
• Be sure to resolve the issue with. Innovation or automation is not important here - it's your choice. Both large and small gardens love the availability of water, which will be more convenient for you;
• We define the soil. Chernozem is best suited to plan a garden and get a rich harvest. But if heavy clay predominates in the soil, you will have to ennoble it and bring peat, sand, or black soil itself to the site;
• If you have not yet decided how to make beds correctly and where to start, start by laying out the site at a distance from the trees. They will not create a shadow, and at any time the ground will be warmed up by the sun's rays.

• From south to north beds are located if the site you own is in a lowland. Often, the earth is constantly damp, which means that it needs to be warmed up by the sun;
• West to East, beds are planned in case of dry soil. The aisles will be under the shade of the plants, which will retain moisture;
• With ground slope, it is better to break the beds across;
• South side suitable for planning a garden, and northern- a garden, if the site is not initially flat.

How to plan a garden

We create a landing plan

We agree that planning a garden is a painstaking work that will take a single day, but without it you will not make rich harvests, and this place will not become your rest.

The first thing to start with - Draw a plan of "possessions" on paper

The drawing should contain the most complete information: shape and size, information about the acidity of the soil, its orientation. Next, break the site into zones - a garden, a vegetable garden, a residential and economic zone. It will be great if you observe, and bring in, the magnitude of the shadow from buildings, trees. Now, in order to more clearly plan the garden, we make its “model”. To do this, cut out strips of paper and write the name of the plants you will be planting, as well as important fixtures such as watering centers,. Post them, "play" and find the right combination. For those who think that these actions “can be omitted”, let’s say that it’s better to prepare on paper than to find the right places in the garden itself in the spring. When all forms and places are determined, you can think about the varieties and varieties of crops that are needed in the garden.

Correct beds

If there are no proper beds in the garden, then rest will not work - everything will be painstaking work. Therefore, we will pay attention to the beds in order to correctly plan the garden.

• Lowering or lifting

There are several positions of the beds: deepened, raised, level with the ground. The level is determined by the availability of watering every day, natural conditions. For example, if you cannot water your beds every day, then it is better to deepen them, and vice versa.

• Dimensions

Forms can be completely different, the most important thing is easy access. If the length can be any, then the width for easy access should not be more than 1 meter. Optimum width - from 60 cm. Size design - according to your desire (brick, slate, etc., or not design).

• Crop rotation for your crops

This is one of critical issues, which must be solved not only to plan the garden, but also to get a rich harvest. The sequence of "returning to the same place" is about 4 years. Therefore, we advise you to divide the entire area into 4 sections, and follow all the necessary sequences, according to the crop rotation tables.

• Combined planting crops

Here, in order to correctly plan the site, it is worth knowing which cultures cannot get along side by side, and which ones will even help to grow, forming a “community”. For example, beans and, among agronomists, are called "Three Sisters" because their growth rates are perfectly matched. But, it is worth knowing that not all plants are so “friendly”. Dill and a knowledgeable person will never plant nearby. The same applies to beans and. In order to understand exactly which cultures help, and which ones “scam” each other, see the TABLE:

Culture compatibility table

Culture compatibility table

Interesting tip: garlic can not only help a person strengthen immunity, but also allow you to take care of " immune system» plants. So, they will be much less sick. For this, do useful infusion according to the recipe: cut 5 garlic cloves and pour them with boiling water (1 liter), and then, close the lid and let it infuse for about 20 minutes. Immediately after this, in order to prevent any diseases, it is possible to water indoor and garden plants with this infusion.

Planning and planting a garden in 6 acres

Planning a large garden is quite simple, because of the good dimensions. But here on 6 acres you can’t really clear up. But this is not a problem, especially if you take into account a few nuances:

• Garage position;

Do not arrange a garage in the depths of the cottage (house), because it will be necessary to allocate a road (entrance) for the car.

• The garden on the south side will cover the vegetable garden with shade for most of the day;
• Installation of the brazier is best done from the windward side;
• The non-standard shape of the flower beds will allow not only to plan the garden, but also visually expand it;
• A mini-garden located in the barbecue area or gazebos will decorate the perimeter and save space;

To do this, the block is knocked down from the boards, earth is poured and flowers or crops are planted. The bed can be fenced with wattle to limit the beds.

• Drainage systems in the lowlands are simply irreplaceable;

If your site is located on a slope, then the lower part will always contain excess moisture. Exactly drainage systems, disguised as special terraces, will visually and actually make the use of the site more convenient.

These tips will serve as a good lesson, as in planning a simple vegetable garden. small sizes as well as large areas.

So, adhering to the above measures, you can make the right garden this spring right from a piece of paper, which will bear fruit to your delight.

We wish you to rest on your personal plot and not to believe people who say that work in the countryside turns into torture. Turn your site into a fairy tale right now.

The layout of the fruit and berry garden is a responsible task, the solution of which will depend on the future supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries. Therefore, when planning a site, you need (as the people say) to hurry slowly.

Preparatory work

When planning a land plot, it is necessary to allocate an open space for a garden sunny place with high groundwater levels. It is impossible to lay a garden in a lowland, where cold streams of air and water will roll down during the spring flood. After an external examination of the land allocated for the garden, determine and write down in your diary a list of preparatory work.

woodcroft orchard

• Clear the area of ​​old stumps, wild shrubs, stones and other debris.
• Plow the area deep or dig with the turnover of the formation.
• Water to encourage weeds to emerge. After seedlings, carry out deep cultivation and level the area.
• In parallel, give the soil to the nearest chemical laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, its chemical composition. This is necessary for the subsequent care of the garden: fertilization, irrigation, and other agrotechnical measures.
• According to the results of the analysis (according to the recommendations), apply the recommended doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for the final autumn processing. Without such data, it is not advisable to fertilize the site. It is better to apply fertilizers and other components directly to the planting hole ( mineral fertilizers, humus or biohumus, slaked lime, biological products from pests and diseases).

Zoning when planning garden and berry plantings

On a separate sheet of your garden diary, draw a diagram of the layout of the garden. The garden can be located in front of the house, to the side or behind, but the trees and bushes should be located from north to south for better illumination and have three zones. They can be located one after another or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cottage.

• If the zoning is joint, then a garden is laid in the first zone, the plants of which will not shade the cultures of the second zone, and in the morning they will receive their share of the sun.
• In the second zone, it is better to place berries. Their height is up to 1.5 meters. The morning shadow from the bushes will not harm the plants of the third zone.
• In the third zone, the actual orchard will be planted. From the neighbors, it should be at a distance of 2.5-3.0 m, so as not to obscure their site.

On the pages of the garden diary, write down the names and brief description fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram, indicate under the numbers their location on the plot area.

pickleslee

Berry layout

When breaking down the berry in the diagram, immediately consider the nature of the plants. So, blackcurrant grows quietly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are rather quarrelsome with neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as green hedge, and viburnum, hawthorn - in the landscape decoration of the recreation area. In solitary plantings of mowed lawns, they look great.

Some owners believe that berry growers are generally better placed along the boundaries of the site. In this case, part of the land is released for other crops or zones (recreation, sports, etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not fenced with a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their features (thorny, dense, etc.).

The density of planting berries is very important. It is a natural regulator of the optimal development of plants, their resistance to diseases and the formation of crops.

• Raspberries are planted in dense rows, 0.5 m apart and 1.0-1.5 meters between rows. Growing, raspberries occupy the aisles, the former aisles are freed from raspberries and become temporary paths. By pruning overgrowth, the culture is interchanged, returning after 2-4 years to its original place.
• Ioshta, black and golden currants are planted at a distance between bushes of at least 1.5 m, and red through a meter. Large bushes will shade each other, thorns of certain gooseberry varieties will completely limit access to berries. Honeysuckle and shadberry, when used as a green hedge, are planted after 1.0-1.5 meters (and even thicker), and in the berry bush at a distance of up to 2 meters.

Thomas Generazio

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think over and on the diagram plan in advance the quantity of each type and variety so that you can provide your family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people, there will be enough 20 raspberry bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, ioshta, shadberry and honeysuckle. Leave some room for exotic newcomers to come into your line of sight over time. A properly planned berry tree grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are transferred to another place.

Orchard layout

On the next free page of the garden diary, draw a layout fruit crops. Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each crop. m of total area under one tree. Do not thicken the landings. Trees will grow and begin to interfere, and even oppress each other. Planting pits should be in a row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave aisles at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. So, today the majority farms they are switching to columnar forms of apple and pear trees - the main horticultural crops in the dacha economy. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to disease, less damaged by frost.

For middle family enough for 1-2 trees of each type. Early, middle and late varieties should be present in the garden in order to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also prepare processed ones for the winter. From garden crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Instead of a medium cherry, plant 2 cherries. They form a crop after an early sweet cherry. You need 1 quince (later you can graft another species or other varieties on it), 2-3 plums, including one marabelle. Enough 1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties. 2-3 apple trees, which over time through grafting can be turned into 6-8 varieties different terms maturation. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nuts separately. Almost nothing grows under the crown of this crop. If you like hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with their shade. 11-12 fruit trees will eventually grow into 18-20 varieties of all kinds.

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is imperative to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with varieties and varieties for your region, up to the district, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact the experts. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please you with the harvest and quality of the fruits.

General Approaches to Planting a Garden

Lay the garden in the fall, that is, dig planting pits according to your scheme, prepare near each that fertilizer mixture that is necessary for the condition of the soil.

Planting hole preparation

In autumn, you can only prepare a planting hole of approximate size, since the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the purchased seedling. The preliminary size of the planting pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings, for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when planting the seedling in the pit.

Soil preparation

Near each hole, mix the top layer of soil with humus, peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska to this mixture. Mix well.

mainetoday

Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting seedlings is best done in the spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will get stronger, the root system will strengthen. A young tree adapts to a new location during the warm spring-summer-autumn period.

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the dacha. It is better to purchase seedlings in farms that grow them or in nurseries. There is more confidence here that you will acquire the desired zoned variety of the garden or berry crop you need.

Carefully inspect the selected seedling. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark or drops of gum, refuse to buy. Remember! No assurances from the seller will return the lost time.

Rules for planting seedlings

Soak the seedlings in a root or other growth stimulant 1-2 days before planting. Prepare a container of clay talker with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes may be used.

About 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, pour some of the soil mixture into the hole with a cone. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the pit. Dip the prepared seedling into a mash, insert it into the pit, straightening the root along the cone so that there are no creases upwards, and fill 2/3 of the pit with soil mixture. Fill the bucket with water. After soaking, pour in the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive in a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under the gusts of wind, will break off the small roots that provide the plant with the soil.

Important nuances of landing

When planting, be sure to follow the correct depth of the root collar. When it is deepened, the tree can dry out for no reason in 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils). On light sandy loamy soils (especially in the south), it is better to deepen the root collar somewhat into the soil (8-10 cm), "hiding" it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops quickly rebuild the root system, often on insufficiently moist soils.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be at the level of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is located 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root neck and graft and deepen the planting to the grafting site. In this case, the root neck is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you have correctly identified the root neck and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. We compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, we make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 more buckets of water. Together with the soaking water, the seedling will also be pulled into the soil. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, top up the soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If live seedlings are purchased, the planting is done correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves.

starkbros

How to determine the root neck

1. In a young seedling, it is good to wipe the lower part of the trunk and the beginning of the root with a wet cloth. The root collar is defined as a transition from greenish (stem) to light brown (root zone).
2. In older seedlings (3-4 years old), we wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet rag and, after the wet zone dries, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of an inconspicuous expansion of the trunk into the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped color of the young subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root zone. The place of transition of one color to another is the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The place of origin of the roots should remain above the level of the landing pit.

What not to do when planting seedlings

• It is impossible to use semi-rotted manure when planting, only humus mixed with soil.
• You can not often water the seedlings with small norms of water. They only dry out the soil in the planting hole.
• Do not water seedlings cold water(from an artesian).
• It is impossible to fertilize plants in the first year after planting, and especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
• After planting, it is impossible to mulch the near-trunk circle with a large layer of mulch. In the event of prolonged rains, water accumulated in the mulch will cause the young bark to rot and the plant to die. A thick layer of mulch is applied in the fall, which will protect the soil from freezing and the death of seedlings from low temperatures.

What to do when planting seedlings

• Whiten young seedlings with a solution of chalk and clay with the addition of biological products from diseases and pests or a solution of copper sulfate.
• Insulate the trunk with several layers of burlap, lutrasil, spandbond, paper and other materials.
• From hares and other rodents, protect the trunk with a mesh chain-link or spruce branches, deepening the latter into the soil by 5-10 cm.
• After each sufficiently large snowfall, trample the snow around the trunk, which will protect the latter from being eaten by mice.

(19 ratings, average: 4,53 out of 5)

You can often hear from inexperienced summer residents that their trees do not produce such fruits as expected. And they begin to buy ultra-modern seedlings, cutting down all previously planted trees. But in most cases, the people themselves are to blame for the fact that the trees grow poorly and bear fruit. Most likely, tree planting was carried out according to the principle “the more the better”, there was no question of garden planning at all. And the result of such work was ever-sick, fruitless plants.

The main thing for every owner of his own plot to understand is that the creation of a garden, just like the creation of a house, must begin with careful planning.

Where does the garden begin?

The garden begins with what needs to be carefully analyze soil quality and climate in which your trees and shrubs are to grow and bear fruit. If your site has too clay or sandy soil, then it is worth fertilizing it with black soil, peat and other useful components so that the roots receive enough nutrition.

Climatic features that interfere with fruiting:

• too cold winters;
• late spring frosts;
• excessive moisture.

Therefore, trees should be selected based on the climate in which they will grow. Otherwise, you will never get fruit.

tree selection

Choosing fruit trees and shrubs for a garden plot should be strictly local selection. After all, only those apple, pear and cherry plum trees that are accustomed to the local climate will be able to successfully bear fruit. They perfectly adapt to changes in temperature and humidity, delighting their owners with fruits, if not every year, then every other year.

Southern fruits - apricots and peaches-very afraid of autumn dampness. This is due to the fact that in a humid climate, flowering does not end with pollination, and they become just barren flowers without fruits. And pollen, along with moisture, simply falls to the ground. No less dangerous for these shrubs are spring frosts, which occur at the time of flowering of apricots.

Sweet cherry does not tolerate the proximity of groundwater, and if reclamation is not carried out in time, the plant will wither in the very near future. Excessive dampness in the spring also does not bring benefits: the fruits begin to blacken and crack even before they ripen. Therefore, the planting of shrubs should be carried out in previously drained soils.

It is worth choosing plants, strictly considering their performance. Think about whether it is worth allocating a few meters of land for trees that will bear fruit every five or six years, or is it still easier to go to the store and buy a few kilograms of apricots or peaches, and plant trees on this land that will delight you with the harvest.

Gallery: garden layout (25 photos)

Plot marking

In order to know which trees to plant on the site, you need to draw a diagram on paper, on which there will be all the existing buildings and those that you still plan to build: a house, a bathhouse, outbuildings. In addition, you should draw those trees that you are not going to uproot.

This is necessary because every building or tree casts a shadow on everything that grows on your site. Consequently, shrubs, trees and other plants will begin to stretch in the direction where there is more light. They spend a lot of energy on this, which could be spent on laying fruit. This will last until the top of it gets closer to the light and overcomes the barrier. And therefore, if your house or bath completely obscures the planted trees and shrubs, then they cannot always outgrow them and they will never bear fruit.

In order to properly distribute the trees on the site, you should also paint the height of each building and the direction of the world. Shade those areas on which the shadow will be located almost around the clock. These zones not suitable for planting trees and shrubs. Here you can safely plant flowers, make a pond or pool. In order for the trees to bear fruit, shade zones should be excluded from the places for planting them.

planting

Now you should figure out how to plant trees on the site correctly. To begin with, the gardener must decide how many trees and shrubs will grow in the garden. If you do not want to periodically prune the plants, then on one hundred square meters of a garden or orchard, you can plant no more than 7 pears or apple trees. Because growing up, they will begin to interfere with each other, casting a shadow. And so a private house will only decorate a garden and a vegetable garden on a site.

If pruning of plants is still planned, then you can plant up to 15 fruit trees on one hundred square meters. If you consider yourself to be smart summer residents, then spend money on columnar trees and plant them at a distance of a meter from each other. Examples of trees of this type can be found on the Internet or in a seedling store.

It is worth remembering that pruning leads to a decrease in fruit only in apricots and cherries, because the fruits grow along the entire branch, and therefore it is not customary to cut them. All other trees require constant pruning. This will help add light to the fruiting branches, and the fruits will become larger. The best option will be the formation of a crown in the form of a ball or wall, if you planted plants near the fence.

Apple and pear trees should be planted at a distance of at least three meters from each other.. But the planting of shrubs can be carried out at a distance of at least one and a half meters from each other. The layout of the garden and vegetable garden should be carried out from south to north, so the plants will not cast shadows and interfere with each other.

Do not make the garden rectangular - it will not be very convenient when caring for plants. If the gardener has broken a rectangular orchard, then he will have to move around with equipment and fertilizers very carefully so as not to damage the tree trunks with a wheelbarrow.

Garden plan

The modern layout of the garden has ceased to be strictly rectangular. And this happened because right angles are completely inconvenient to go around with a wheelbarrow during fertilization or watering the beds. Therefore, modern beds are made in such a way as to make it more convenient. Interesting ideas garden plot layouts can be peeped from other summer residents and gardeners.

Nevertheless, there are a number of basic principles that help to achieve the maximum yield from the minimum number of beds:

If the gardener chose not to think about the layout of the garden or vegetable garden, then he will have to thoroughly suffer with the cultivation of garden and garden crops. So, having thoroughly sweated once, planning the location of trees or vegetables on the site, you can save yourself from unnecessary work in the future.