Do I need to cut decorative flax after flowering. Daylilies - preparation for winter. Location for a flower

Lily can't be named unpretentious flower, which will invariably delight you with abundant flowering from year to year, without requiring special care. This elegant plant has an unpredictable character: for some flower growers, lilies are strewn with fragrant flowers every season, for others, lilies get sick, refuse to bloom, freeze out. This problem is especially true for luxurious Oriental, American and Tubular hybrids, which do not tolerate the Russian winter.

When to prune lilies, and is it necessary?

In order for these types of lilies to feel great, you need to take good care of them: you must learn to understand well which lilies to dig up when, and how to store the bulbs until spring.

And since lily bulbs are sent for storage without a ground part, beginners may have a logical question: “When to prune lilies for the winter - immediately after flowering or immediately before preparing plants for wintering?”

Lilies throughout the season continue to store nutrients for the winter

As soon as the last flowers fade on the lilies, some flower growers have an unquenchable desire to quickly remove unnecessary stems under the root. The green “Christmas trees” sticking out in the middle of the flower bed are very hurtful, especially if they are not obscured by the next change of flowering perennials. Yes, and among experienced flower growers, there is sometimes an opinion that lilies should be cut off for the winter. It is not surprising that beginners begin to be overcome by doubts: should I prune lilies after flowering, or can this harm the plants?

Lily transplant video

Unlike tulips, the ground part of which quickly dies off after flowering, lilies throughout the season continue to store nutrients for the winter. Lily stalks are necessary for the process of photosynthesis: imagine what a bulb will grow in onion, if at it or her constantly to pinch off growing? The same thing happens with lilies - pruning deprives the plant of the opportunity to grow the bulb to the required size and prepare for the next season.

What then to do with faded lilies? Minimal intervention is required from you: the flower petals will fly around themselves, all that remains is to cut off the seed pods, and the stems with leaves will die off naturally in September, then they can be completely removed or cut at a height of 15 cm above the ground.

Pruning deprives the plant of the opportunity to grow the bulb to the required size and prepare for the next season.

In the case when you have to cut lilies for a bouquet (after all, lilies are cut flowers), you should choose those plants that have at least five buds - the bulb of such lilies has already reached large sizes. Just do not cut the stem at the root, let the bulb recover.

Do I need to dig up lilies, how and when to dig out?

If this is your first time growing garden lilies, closer to autumn you will have to think about whether it is necessary to dig up lilies so that they do not freeze in winter? As mentioned above, not all types of lilies are able to tolerate Russian frosts, so ask your familiar flower growers if they dig up lilies for the winter in your region? In mild, not too frosty winters, shelter from fallen leaves may well be enough for flowers. But if you are afraid of losing your beautiful lilies, it is better to play it safe and place the dug bulbs for storage in a dry basement, or in a refrigerator. It is worth noting that Trumpet lilies are dug up for the winter without fail, since they freeze out even under good cover.

The timing for digging lily bulbs is different for each species: Asian and LA hybrids should be dug in the second decade of August, OT hybrids are dug at the end of August, and Oriental hybrid bulbs are dug in early September.

Lily storage video

Digging lilies is as follows:

• nests of bulbs with pre-cut stems are dug out of the ground;
• the soil is gently shaken off the bulbs;
• each bulb is carefully examined for the presence of damaged or rotten roots, dry scales;
• all bulbs are washed with running water;
• for disinfection, the bulbs are placed in a solution of potassium permanganate or karbofos;
• after drying in the shade, the bulbs are ready for storage.

Bulb nests are dug out of the ground with pre-cut stems

From experienced flower growers, you can hear different points of view on whether to prune lilies, when to dig up bulbs, and whether to even prepare plants for wintering. Be skeptical about advice, use common sense, and be sure to check the information you hear. Then you will make much less mistakes when growing lilies.

Foreword

Having planted rose bushes in the garden, it is quite natural to expect them to grow quickly and bloom profusely. However, without your master's hand, the plants will not show their true beauty. Pruning roses in spring and summer is a very important procedure that a gardener needs to learn first.

We provide beauty and health to the queen of the garden

In novels, it is often written “how beautiful the neglected garden was”, but in practice everything is not so beautiful. Gardeners know that in just one growing season, a rose bush can lose a significant part of its attractiveness, and then health. Regular and correct pruning rose bushes is aimed at prolonging the life of the queen of the garden for a long time and making her a real decoration of it.

Auspicious days for pruning roses in spring-summer 2019

You should start pruning roses after making sure that the night frosts have already passed, but the sap flow of the plant has not yet begun. Cropped, and therefore, roses awakened before the due date, seized even by a light frost, then they are unlikely to be able to bloom. If you cut the plant after the start of sap flow, then it is likely that the weakened rose will bloom reluctantly, sluggishly.

In addition, it is important to take into account the lunar cycles, which can contribute to the active growth of cut roses or, on the contrary, interfere with them. Most auspicious days for pruning roses in spring-summer 2019 lunar calendar: April 2-4, 13-16, April 21-23; 1–4, 17–20, 29–30 May; June 1, 13–16, 25–29; 10–14, 22–24, 26, 29–31 July; 9-10, 19-22, 26-29 August.

"Hairstyle" for a rose bush: choose the type and length

There are several types of spring pruning of roses, depending on its purpose:

• sanitary, in which broken, poorly developed shoots that have not survived the winter are removed;
• forming, the conduct of which will provide a good shape for the bush, its long flowering due to thinning, that is, the removal of branches that shade each other;
• simplified, in which the shoots are cut to half their length, which allows you to get larger buds than usual;
• anti-aging, may be required in advanced cases, to restore the bush.

View: Rejuvenating spring pruning of an old bush

An important factor is the degree of pruning of plants:

• Strong (short) - is chosen either for young, or for neglected or old bushes. In its production, one should focus on the height from the ground (14-15 cm) or 3-4 kidneys. Suitable for varieties of polyanthus roses, floribunda and hybrid tea varieties.
• Medium (moderate) - produced if necessary to stimulate flowering. In this case, the stems are shortened to a length between 5 and 7 buds. Priority for remontant species.
• Weak (light) - used if it is necessary to remove the tops of the shoots, however, it should be remembered that too frequent repetition of light pruning will lead to a rapid extension of the stems. Pruning is done at the level of 8-12 buds. Used for vigorous, climbing varieties.
• Combined - the most common type of pruning in practice, due to which a spectacular appearance and no breaks in flowering are ensured.

Garden tools are an important part of the care

For trimming you will need:

• pruner with one cutting blade for thin and medium shoots;
• pruner with two cutting blades for powerful stems;
• garden shears with long handles for cutting in hard-to-reach places;
• garden saw for working with succulent shoots and stumps;
• garden knife;
• tight gloves.

The rules for choosing a tool are simple: the cutting edges must be very sharp and clean. A blunt tool can severely damage the shoot and even lead to its death. You can disinfect production tools in a strong solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulphate.

At what age should you prune roses?

Roses are subject to pruning immediately before planting, and then this procedure should become annual, and all shoots at the age of 4-5 years will be subject to complete removal.

What kind, such a “haircut”

Before proceeding with the trimming procedure, it is necessary to recall the need for proper cutting techniques. The cut should be made at an angle of 45 degrees, about 1 cm above the bud, pointing outward, while making sure that it is not germinated.

Depending on the variety of roses used different types spring “haircuts”, but the general sequence is always the same:

1. The material that covered the plants for the winter is removed.
2. The soil under the bush is cleaned and the bush itself is inspected for general condition and health.
3. All damaged shoots that have not survived the winter are cut out.
4. Wild growth is removed under the root, which differs from cultivated shoots in a light green color.
5. The actual “haircut” is performed with the choice of the required degree of trimming, at which:
   • all improperly growing stems are removed, especially if they are directed inside the bush, stems, and the central shoots are also thinned out;
   • young shoots and side branches are shortened or pinched;
6. Sections of stems are processed.

Video: General principles of spring pruning of roses

climbing rose

Powerful stems of one of my favorites decorative types climbing (curly) roses are cut in the spring at the height required to give the bush the desired shape. Lateral shoots can be shortened to a length between 2 and 4 buds. Extra stems are also completely removed, preventing the bush from thickening.

The peculiarity of pruning roses of this type is from the edge to the center, that is, the outer stems are first cut, gradually moving to the central ones.

floribunda

Floribunda roses require a balanced combined pruning to achieve their luxurious appearance. If the bush is cut lightly, then there is a high risk of growing a voluminous bush, in which both the stems and flowering will be weak, but strong pruning, in turn, can lead to the depletion of the bush. The combination of the method consists in shortening the adult stems, leaving 3-5 buds, thereby stimulating early flowering, and cutting the basal annuals by about a third, leaving 2-3 buds. Age (more than 4 years) stems in the center of the bush are removed completely. In Floribunda roses, it is also important not to forget to remove root shoots throughout the season.

Bush

Spray roses are characterized by an average degree of pruning, aimed more at forming the desired outlines of a given size. At the same time, they try to thin out the center as much as possible to improve natural ventilation and facilitate moisture access.

After removing diseased and damaged shoots, young and healthy ones are pruned at a level between 1 and 2 upper buds, depending on how voluminous they want to see the bush.

Tea-hybrid species

It is customary to give such bushes the shape of a ball. All varieties of this type of roses are characterized by the formation of buds on the shoots of the current season, so a strong degree of pruning is chosen for them. If the bush is young (up to 4 years old), then pruning of all shoots is carried out at a height between 2 and 4 buds, subject to a distance of 15 cm from the ground level. On adult bushes, the cut is made at a height between 4 and 6 buds, the distance to the ground should be at least 20 cm. In order to prevent the bush from thickening, excess shoots are completely removed from its center.

ground cover roses

Most gardeners do not prune ground cover roses, preferring their natural fountain shape, with the central stems reaching up and the mature shoots leaning towards the ground. This type of rose should be pruned if there is a desire to give the bush splendor and ensure its constant flowering. The stages of spring pruning of ground cover roses are the same as for hybrid tea.

Pruning of polyanthus roses in spring is carried out in two stages:

1. strong stems are shortened by a third;
2. the central shoots, which will lead to thickening of the bush, are removed.

Standard varieties

Standard roses are not a separate species or variety, as they are obtained by grafting roses of other species, for example, floribunda, hybrid tea, climbing, ground cover, to a powerful rosehip stem to create a spectacular tree covered with flowers .. This type of plant requires pruning of varying degrees , depending on age. In the year of planting, pruning should be short, no more than 15 cm from the base of the crown. Pruning in subsequent years depends on the condition of the shoots and on the type of grafted plants.

If those types of roses were grafted, the crown of which on the trunk is usually formed in the form of a ball or an inverted cone, then:

• all young shoots are cut at a height of 3-5 buds (12-15 cm from the base);
• lateral shoots are shortened at a height of 2-4 buds (8-10 cm from the base).

If climbing or ground cover roses were used as grafting, which will give a weeping crown, then pruning should be the same as for their bush varieties.

Complete removal is subject to young shoots of wild rose, sprouting at its base.

Competent pruning of these medium and low-growing spray varieties of roses is also carried out in several stages:

• removal of diseased and damaged shoots;
• cutting young and healthy stems at a height of 5-10 cm above the first healthy bud;
• slight shortening of lateral age shoots;
• complete cutting of wild young shoots at the very base of the bush.

Video: Pruning roses of miniature species in spring

park varieties

For park roses, pruning is recommended only as a rejuvenating procedure to support flowering and stimulate the growth of new shoots. Only damaged and improperly located stems are removed, the tops of the rest are slightly shortened.

The frequency and size of spring pruning of a room rose directly depends on its variety. The main principles will be the same for all domesticated roses:

• if the plant does not bush well and forms long single shoots, then regular light pruning of the tops will be required;
• if, on the contrary, a single plant grows, then they try to pinch the tops to a minimum;
• in case of poor flowering, a rejuvenating radical pruning can be carried out.

When working with a healthy bush:

• weak shoots are removed, especially if their growth is directed inside the bush;
• stems are cut at the root with a missing apical bud;
• strong shoots are shortened to a length between 3 and 6 buds.

Often indoor roses are given as a gift on the first spring holiday. Brought from the store, they retain their beautiful appearance for a very short time, and sometimes they do not initially have it. See how you can reanimate even an already frankly sick plant.

Help to heal cuts

Proper pruning is only the first step. spring care for roses. The second is the processing of sections, for the rapid healing of which you will need garden var or Novikov's liquid.

With a competently and timely spring pruning, a rose in your garden will always have every right to be called its queen and delight you as its luxurious appearance, and wonderful aroma.

For alpine slides, large flower beds, mixborders and individual group plantings, for cutting and arranging bouquets, large-flowered flax will be an amazing bright discovery for you. Growing from seed is easy and has a high success rate.

Large-flowered flax: description

It with decorative flowers, belonging to the genus Len from the Flax family. It reaches a height of up to 110 cm, but most often growth is limited to 30-60 cm. The stem of flax is erect, branched. The leaves are sessile, alternate, lanceolate with pointed tips. Bright flowers form an inflorescence shield, which has a fairly loose structure. The natural habitat is the northwestern part of the African continent (Algeria). Flax was introduced into cultivation in 1820, and since then it has been actively cultivated as an annual.

Large-flowered flax: cultivation

From seeds of small size, if desired, you can grow a beautiful perennial. Flax has an unpretentious character, is resistant to cold, tolerates even weak frosts. It is preferable to choose sunny, well-lit areas for it. It will grow on any garden poor soil, but preferably without stagnant moisture. On the territory of Russia with cold climatic conditions we recommend choosing exactly large-flowered flax. Growing from seeds is very easy. Germination is almost 100%, and the plant spreads up to the taiga zone.

Before planting, the site must be dug up, it is recommended to add humus or compost (for 1 square meter 3-4 kg). As well as a tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Then mix everything thoroughly and level with a rake. It is best to shed the soil well and leave for a couple of days, and only then proceed to planting. This can be done in two ways: seedlings or directly into the ground. Choose the one that suits you best.

Flax (red) large-flowered growing from seeds seedlings

Sowing is recommended in mid-April, as the plant develops quite quickly. Use light soil that is permeable to air and moisture. Pour it into small boxes in an even layer of 5-8 cm and moisten with a spray bottle. Do not bury the seeds, but gently scatter them over the surface, sprinkle with soil on top with a layer of 1 cm. It is best to make a small greenhouse and close the box with polyethylene. Be careful with waterlogging - this is what large-flowered flax does not like. Growing from seeds (photo) is a fairly fast process, seedlings will appear in 7-10 days. As soon as the seedlings have the first pair of true leaves, they should be dived into separate pots, about 7 cm in diameter and the same depth. Flax has a strong root system of the rod type, so we recommend not to delay the seating. The further, the more difficult it will be to separate the plants from each other without damaging them.

Sowing seeds in the ground

This method also has the right to exist and is simple. You can sow seeds in early spring (April-May) or late autumn, which is called before winter. Prepare the soil in advance, in the way that has already been mentioned above. Then make neat grooves at a distance of 10-15 cm, 4-5 cm deep. Spill them properly with water. Do not press the seeds, but just spread them out in an even layer and sprinkle a small amount of soil on top. When seedlings appear, they must be thinned out, leaving a distance between plants of 5-8 cm.

Basic rules for caring for flax

If you want, as they say, plant and forget the plant, then choose large-flowered flax (Rubrum). Growing seedlings from seeds or immediately in the ground will not cause difficulties, and care is even easier.

• Choose light soils without stagnant moisture and cold drafts.
• The plant is resistant to heat, so additional watering is required only in case of extremely dry summers.
• During the season, make 2-3 top dressings with complex mineral fertilizers, and the plant will delight you with lush flowering.
• Flowerbeds where flax grows need to be weeded, like any other.
• After rain and watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil so that a crust does not form, especially on heavy soils.

What other plants for the "lazy" can be planted in the garden?

There is not always time to take care of the garden and flower beds, but everyone wants to have their own fragrant corner on the site. Someone will say that this does not happen, and any plant requires attention. Of course, this is true, but the degree of care and its thoroughness differ. If you are rarely in the country, then not only large-flowered flax will suit you. Growing from seeds of some other species will also come in handy. Pay attention to the openwork gypsophila. A perennial plant will cover the ground with an even carpet. You can also use an annual analogue - graceful gypsophila, it grows quickly and blooms luxuriantly.

Our traditional cornflower is simple and charming at the same time. Now many varieties have been bred not only with blue color, but also white, pink, purple. In addition, the plant will delight you with a double wave of flowering - June and September.

We recommend choosing fragrant iberis or matthiola, flaxseed, alissum, braiding everything with an even cloth, calendula (not only pleasant, but also useful), nasturtium for both horizontal and vertical gardening, morning glory.

If you need an easy-to-care, but spectacular and unusual plant, look at the bright and cheerful large-flowered flax. Growing from seeds at home will help you get high-quality seedlings and plants that have grown stronger by the time they are planted in the ground.

Geranium, or as it is also called pelargonium, is a perennial plant that blooms long and luxuriantly. The flower has many medicinal properties and is practically not afraid of pests, which it repels with its specific smell. We meet geraniums not only in gardens and flower beds, but also on many window sills.

Thanks to its unpretentiousness and beautiful bloom, geranium has gained great popularity in our country. But in order for this beautiful flower remained compact and attractive. And he didn’t take half of the window sill, after him you need to do timely pinching and pruning (read about how to care for geraniums at home in a pot to bloom, and from you will learn about recommendations for caring for a flower in the open field). By using these simple geranium shaping techniques, you will achieve two important goals:

1. Timely pinching will give the plant a beautiful and abundant bloom.
2. In addition, pinching will save the plant from diseased and weak branches that slow down the growth and development of the flower.

Important! Pinching delays the flowering of geraniums, since the nutrients that should be supplied to the top point of growth are spent on the formation of new side shoots.

Therefore, this procedure can be used as a regulator of the flowering time of a flower. You need to stop pinching the plant after it has acquired the desired shape and bushiness.

The principle of plucking is to remove the growing point from which a new branch comes. Simply put, the very top of the geranium stem is cut off. This procedure causes the trunk to start up new shoots, and the flower becomes more and more branched.

Pinching a young pelargonium should be done several times a month, while the flower grows in growth and gains strength. Usually all leaves on the stem are removed, except for 5-6 of the largest and strongest leaves.

You can pinch growth points in any month of the year, except for winter, when the plant needs to rest and should not be disturbed (you can learn how to care for home geraniums in winter).

How to do it right?

The algorithm of actions here is as follows:

1. Before pinching, carefully inspect the upper shoots of the flower and find a growth point on them, the largest upper bud of the shoot, which is responsible for the active growth of the plant. If this point is not removed in time, the begonia will stretch in height, preventing side branches from forming.
2. Having found the main active kidney, gently pinch it off with your fingers or nails. On a denser, stiffer shoot, you can use nail scissors or garden pruner. When carrying out the procedure, make sure that neighboring young leaves do not wrinkle, and try not to break the main stem of the shoot.
3. After pinching, the shoot does not stop growing completely in height, and after some time it will begin to stretch again. But thanks to pinching, the lateral buds will have time to open up and start new shoots.
4. Remember that removing the top escape point will wake up neighboring dormant buds. Therefore, if you do not want shoots to appear in these places, awakened buds. After the first shoots appear, they must also be carefully removed.

Important points:

1. When working, you can use only clean, alcohol-treated tools. Secateurs or scissors must be well sharpened so as not to unnecessarily injure the flower. Hands must be washed thoroughly so as not to infect the geranium with any disease.
2. If pinching is done with nails, without using a tool, the shoots cannot be pulled too much, as this will injure the plant.
3. After the end of all procedures, the flower must be placed in a warm, sunny place. Young shoots need plenty of light to grow quickly and vigorously.
4. If unhealthy, infected shoots appear on the plant, they must be immediately removed with a 3-4 cm part of a healthy trunk.
5. Pinching places should be treated with disinfectants: alcohol, brilliant green or charcoal ash. Otherwise, the cut sites will begin to dry, and the pelargonium may get sick.

What to do to make the bush grow thicker?

On a note. In order for the geranium to grow into a lush bush, its apical bud on the main shoot above the stem node must be pinched.

This stimulates the growth of lateral buds at the lower stem nodes. After carrying out this event, seedlings will slow down their growth, but will begin to gain strength. The geranium will eventually take on a beautiful spherical shape due to the large number of side stems that have developed.

How to prevent the flower from stretching up too much?

To prevent the geranium from stretching into growth, pinching should be done at the most important upper point of stem formation. If, after this procedure, the shoots grow again from the upper axils of the leaves, they must be removed, then allowed to grow a little and pinch again. The buds are removed during this time so that the flower gives all its strength only to the growth of side shoots.

What to do for lush flowering?

Only young shoots bloom in geraniums. Therefore, in order for it to develop quickly and bloom luxuriantly, young shoots must be pinched after the formation of the first 4-5 pairs of the first leaves. As a result, the remaining strong shoots will begin to actively grow and develop, turning into a lush crown with many flowers.

Features for pelargonium grown from seeds

Grown geraniums from seeds should be started to pinch over 6-8 leaves. In this case, only axillary shoots are left that grow below the topmost pair of sheets. If, after pinching, shoots begin to reappear in the axils of the upper leaves, they must be removed immediately, otherwise new shoots will not begin to grow in the lower axils.

Photo

Below you can find step by step photos geranium pinching process.

Possible errors and their correction

When pinching geraniums, a very important condition must be observed. You can not pinch all the upper shoots at once, some of them must be left intact. The role of these shoots is that they will take on the main part of the nutrients, preventing these new shoots from appearing prematurely.

But if you still unsuccessfully removed more top points than you need, don't be discouraged.

Reference. Remove new shoots, cauterizing these places with brilliant green, until the upper buds reappear in the right places.

What must be done after pinching?

With regular pinching of shoots and buds, geranium actively grows and develops. Due to this, the color especially needs constant feeding with growth stimulants and a complete complex. mineral fertilizers(read about when and how best to feed geraniums, and from you will learn how to properly use iodine with hydrogen peroxide to feed a flower). With a lack of nutrition, the plant will begin to let out many thin stems, weakening the plant.

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The lush and fragrant inflorescences of lilies are so pleasing to the eye that many simply feel sorry for cutting them off. Do I need to prune them after flowering is a question of interest to many beginner flower growers. Features of pruning indoor lilies and plants open ground described in this article.

You will learn all the details of pruning lilies after flowering, according to what rules they are carried out and what terms should be followed during the procedure.

Pruning lilies after flowering

In order for plants growing in one place to delight you with their unique flowers and wonderful aroma, you should proper care after them. This is not only loosening, watering, top dressing, but also timely pruning of leaves, because from proper conduct This procedure depends on the entire development of the plant for the next year.

Very often, beginner gardeners have a dilemma when to prune the leaves of a crop: immediately after flowering or much later. Our article will answer this and other questions.

Peculiarities

When the plants fade, only wilted flower stalks and leaves remain above the soil surface. Therefore, naturally there is a desire to put the flower bed in order by removing protruding stems. However, this should not be done immediately after the end of flowering.

The thing is that the bulb is stored with nutrients throughout the season, and photosynthesis processes take place in the stems and leaves, as a result of which accumulation occurs. useful elements. Therefore, prematurely cutting stems and leaves, we with my own hands we form a weak bulb, unable to give a healthy plant next year.

Rules

We learned that it is not necessary to prune crops immediately after flowering, and remove the leaves and stems of the plant to keep the bulbs healthy.

What to do with faded buds, the following rules will tell(picture 1):

• After flying around the petals, it is necessary to cut only the seed pods.
• Leaves and stems are not pruned after flowering. They die off naturally in early autumn, after which they are removed.
• In the case of cutting flowers for a bouquet, you should choose bushes that have more than 5 buds. In this case, the bulb, most likely, has already reached sufficient size. However, it is necessary to cut the flowers so that part of the stem remains above the ground.

Figure 1. Technology for pruning in the open field

The aerial parts remaining after flowering (cutting) contribute to the restoration of the bulb.

More information about the care and pruning of crops in the open field is shown in the video.

Trimming time

Trim timing is one of the most common mistakes. It is important to know that the preliminary removal of the aerial parts of the plant directly affects the development of the mother bulb, because as a result of the interruption of photosynthesis processes in the green organs of the plant, the process of formation and transport of nutrients to the roots is disrupted (Figure 2).

Note: Such a culture will not be able to grow a full-fledged bulb that can survive the winter and give abundant flowering next year.

Therefore, it is worth being patient and waiting for the stems to die off naturally. As a rule, this happens in the fall. As a consequence, the stems are pruned either in late autumn or spring.

Do I need to prune lilies after flowering?

The answer to the question of whether it is necessary to prune the bushes after flowering is categorically negative. While the stem is alive, photosynthesis takes place in it with the formation of substances that feed the bulb. Thus, she prepares for wintering and flowering next season.

Figure 2. Optimum time to prune plants

But to remove unripe fruits, on the contrary, is desirable, because the plant spends such necessary forces on them, and the bulb receives a smaller amount of the necessary substances.

How to prune a house lily after flowering

Varieties that are grown in flower pots go through the same stages of development as open ground plants: they fade, gradually dry out, and go into a dormant state. And in order to bloom next year, the bulb must make a certain supply of nutrients and rest.

Note: Therefore, if your pet has faded, in no case cut off its stems.

Simply reduce the moisture supply while increasing the interval between waterings, and stop spraying (Figure 3). In this way, you will activate the transition of nutrients from the organs of the aerial part to the bulb and help lay the foundation for growth and development in the new year.

When to prune lilies for the winter

The answer to this question is unequivocal: pruning of plants is carried out in late autumn after the natural death of stems and leaves. At the same time, the stems are not completely removed, but low (15 cm) bushes are left above the soil surface.

Figure 3. Features of pruning indoor varieties

Some gardeners even advise removing yellowed and dried stems in the spring.

Peculiarities

In order to keep the plants in good condition until next year, you need to take care of storing the bulb in the winter, especially if you do not plan to dig it up. This is where the question arises when to prune for the winter.

Since these plants flower early enough, it takes a long time for the stems to die off naturally. At this time, photosynthesis processes take place in the still living stem, without which the supply of nutrients to the bulb is impossible. For this reason, the stems and leaves are not removed immediately after the end of flowering, but only after the stem dies off on its own.

What to trim from a lily so that it does not smell

Pruning is practiced not only after flowering, but also during it. These flowers are well known for their pungent and strong aroma, which is produced by the release of special volatile oils from all parts of the plant. However, this smell is not always pleasant for humans, and in some cases can cause allergic reactions.

What to do if the bouquet is beautiful, but the smell is too heavy for you? In this case, it is recommended to remove the stamens of flowers, because it is on them that smelling pollen is collected. To do this, you need to bring a paper bag to the bud and carefully cut the stamens into it. Use gloves to keep pollen from getting on your fingers. This procedure should be repeated with each blooming flower.

The author of the video will tell you how to get rid of the smell of these flowers.