Distortions of products will be done away with thanks to the right methods of work and fixtures.

You only have a few minutes to assemble the project details, align the edges and tighten the clamps. By the way, are you sure all corners are right? Using the right tools and fixtures, as well as several useful tips, you will be able to achieve perfect results every time without unnecessary fuss.

Assembly accuracy depends on the rectangularity of the parts, so make sure your equipment (saw, planer, thickness planer and other machines) is set up correctly before you start machining parts. Then prepare a flat and clean work surface for assembly. To be successful, master one or more tried and tested techniques to avoid distortions.

One part aligns the other

Assemble the drawer dry and wiggle it from side to side to make sure that the bottom inserted into the grooves ensures that the assembly is square.

If all the parts of your project originally had right angles, they will align with each other during assembly, provided that the clamps are installed correctly. As shown in top photo,the crossbeam shoulders, cut at exactly right angles, automatically align the frame. The trick is to direct the clamping force of the clamps perpendicular to the edges of the parts. If the clamp is angled, pressure can cause it to skew.

Another way to make the assembly self-aligning is the plywood bottom or back wall should fit tightly into the tongue or fold to keep the box or cabinet square. (photo A).

Do you need gaps around the bottom or infill to compensate for seasonal fluctuations in humidity?

To assemble a box with a bottom, insert the assembly template into it and fix it with clamps. The pressure of the clamps is distributed by pressure bars installed next to the joints, not on top of them.

Make a simple assembly template that fits snugly into the opening of the drawer (photo B),and make cutouts on its corners so that it does not stick to the details.

When assembling boxes in which straight spikes protrude slightly at the corners, use spacers or pressure blocks as shown in (photo B),so that the jaws of the clamps do not touch the joints. This method is also useful when assembling dovetail joints.

As per template

For precise alignment and fixing of simple butt joints, it is convenient to use a metal mounting bracket (photo C),which holds the parts at right angles to each other and prevents them from shifting. If you prefer homemade gadgets, make your own mounting angles of any size (a photoD). Quick tip! No mounting angles? There is a way to ensure the immobility of the butt joint parts during gluing. First apply glue to the end of one piece, then join both pieces together, rubbing them in to distribute the glue. Separate them for 10-15 seconds, let the glue dry a little and become more viscous and sticky, and then rub the parts together again. Increasing the viscosity of the adhesive will help prevent parts from shifting when installing the clamps.

This mounting square is due to the rounded outer corner fits snugly on both parts to be bonded.

When determining the dimensions of a homemade mounting square, make cutouts in it that correspond to the jaws of the clamps you have.

Other self-made alignment devices - pressure bars or strips of any size with cutouts that hold parts in position while simultaneously distributing the pressure of the clamps (photo E).V-groove prism bars will help to tighten gusset parts tightly.

Cutouts in the pressure bars prevent the parts from shifting, and the prism bars, which are pulled diagonally with clamps, compress the parts together.

The steel band of this clamp distributes pressure to all four corners, tightly tightening the joints of the burr parts.

Some jigs, due to their design, help to ensure that the glued is square. For example, a tape clamp with four corner blocks (a photoF) and a four-way screw clamp for frame assembly (a photoG) allow you to align all four corners at the same time.

The four-way screw clamps, commonly used for gluing frames, can be used in pairs to assemble drawers. Metal corner pieces help to achieve squareness.

Compare the length of the diagonals without measuring them with a tape measure

Even if you don't have a square you can trust, you can check the squareness of an assembly by comparing distances between opposite corners. If the diagonals are equal (and opposite parts are also the same length), you can be sure that all corners are right. If the clamps get in the way of measuring with a tape measure, or if you are gluing several items of the same size, try another method. Saw two thin strips out of the scraps. The length of each of them must be more than half the length of the diagonals. Then cut one end of each batten at an angle of about 30 °. Pressing the bevels to the opposite inner corners assembly, fold the strips together and secure them with a clip. Then measure another diagonal with the same leveling rod to make sure the assembly is square. To correct the skew, use a long clamp to gently tighten opposite corners along the longer diagonal.

Auxiliary devices for gluing wood products

The use of wood glue is mandatory for most joints used in the manufacture of various wood products. The connection should dry out under force, and you can create and adjust the amount of force using special devices... The most widespread are clamps and clamps, they can be purchased ready-made or made independently. The second option, in our deep conviction, is preferable. Why? Firstly, always a thing received "almost for free" is much nicer for us than bought in a store for relatively large money. Secondly, during manufacturing, you can take into account your own needs to the maximum extent; it is very difficult to find the desired option in the store.

Clamp

How to make wooden clamps

Clamps are very often used during the manufacture of individual small pieces of furniture. The advantages include ease of use and manufacture, reliability of fixation and small size... The disadvantages include the inability to work with parts that have large linear dimensions... This is especially true for industrial clamps, it is very difficult to find large clamps, they are available only in large specialized stores. And there are such shops in big cities, but many craftsmen do not have the opportunity to often travel to the city in search of the right tools and accessories.

The way out is to make a clamp yourself, especially since this is not so difficult. To craft, you will need a few hardwood blocks or slats and a minimal set of joinery tools.

The thickness of the bar is within 30 mm, the thickness of the slats is within 10 mm. Cut out from the block the front stop of the clamp in the form of a hammer, a pressure element and a device for attaching a screw handle. Make a ruler from a thin strip, firmly connect the front stop to the ruler in a tenon / groove, be sure to use wood glue. The other two parts should have holes in which the ruler will move easily. Any metal bolt of suitable diameter with a coarse thread can be used as a clamping device. The larger the thread and the longer the thread section in the screw stop, the more force can be generated during clamping of the parts.

There are many different types clamps, we settled on the simplest and most reliable. It is necessary to make other special clamps only for those specialists who are engaged in the production of a large number of identical products. Then you need to have special clamps for clamping corner joints on the "mustache" and ordinary, for clamping very small elements of wooden structures, etc. For most craftsmen, it is enough to have simple clamps, with their help you can make most joinery joints.

How to make clamps

Vayma is a device in which glued joints can be made over large areas. They are used during the manufacture of windows and doors, furniture boards and other products with large overall dimensions... Industrial clamps are quite practical, but they can not always be found, and for the price these devices can scare off some consumers. We will tell you how to make a metal and wood clamp.

Plain metal clamp

You will need a corner of at least 50 × 50 mm in size, several bolts and threaded stops. A frame is made from the corner, drill holes on it symmetrically at regular intervals, stops will be fixed in these holes to adjust the length of the parts to be glued. The picture shows how to weld metal screw clamps. We used standard bolts, but you can use large bolts with fixed welded nuts. To increase the resistance to the guides, you need to weld the footrests, make them from corner pieces. The principle of operation is very simple - after installing the bonded part using wrench you need to tighten the bolts. Do not forget to put spacers between the wooden product and the metal stops.

The advantage of such a clamp is that you can clamp different sizes wooden structures... The disadvantage is the unevenness of the clamp along the length. You need to make several pieces or use very strong and rigid gaskets in the form of metal channels or I-beams.

Wood clamp

Even more simple construction, it can be made in just a few hours from lumber waste. Manufacturing material - wooden blocks 50 × 80 mm, the length depends on the expected length of the glued elements. Choose the number of bars taking into account the width of the products; the distance between the bars should not be more than 20 centimeters. The figure shows a manufacturing diagram, we will only describe some of the features of using a wooden homemade screw.

You can clamp the product in two ways: metal screws or wooden wedges. In order to use the first option, you need to find or purchase metal screws separately, but we do not advise you to bother. The clamping works perfectly with wooden wedges. To do this, you need to pre-prepare them; during manufacturing, do not make the angle of the wedge very large - it will be difficult to hammer it in and the risk of spontaneous clamps falling out will increase.

Insert the part into the made fixture, using slats or boards of various widths, first reduce the gap between the part and the upper clamp bar. Drive wedges into the small gap formed between them. If you wish, you can slightly improve the device we offer. To do this, drill through holes in vertical posts at regular intervals, they will make it possible to automatically adjust the gap between the workpiece and the upper horizontal bar, the wedges will be easier to pick up, and the fixation will be more stable. Another, simpler, method of clamping is to use rubber bands and wrap the parts with tension.

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  • Any frame - large or small - is a "strict" construction: it makes serious demands on the rectangularity of the corners and their careful execution and connection. To simplify production and get quality frames with less labor costs, the French magazine "System D" offers two simple and comfortable fixtures, which you can make yourself: a tablet for sawing bars or baguettes and a press for gluing blanks.

    Angle - not by sight

    When making frame blanks, the most difficult thing is to cut them strictly at an angle of 45 °. In l om and is intended to help a tablet, which will serve as a good addition to a small circular saw or a jigsaw and replaces the traditional device - a miter box, which is used when working with a hand hacksaw.

    The tablet consists of a small wooden board - a base and two thrust rails, installed strictly at an angle of 90 ° to each other. The base of the tablet is a hardwood board 25 mm thick and approximately 400 x 250 mm. Instead, furniture board or chipboard can be used.

    On one side of the base, a small cut is made - a gap into which it will pass saw blade or a jigsaw blade. On both sides of the cut, with an indent on its width, two thrust bars are attached, the opposite ends of which are sawn off strictly at an angle of 45 °. That's the whole tablet device. It is convenient to use it on the saw table, on which two parallel grooves are milled for this, and two guides corresponding to them are attached to the bottom of the tablet. Thanks to them, the tablet can slide with light friction along the guide grooves, strictly maintaining the direction of its feeding.

    1 - base; 2 - guides; 3 - cut; 4 - persistent bars; 5 - screws

    1 - screed with holes; 2 - fixing angle; 3 - protective gasket

    The photo shows how the tablet is installed with the frame blank and how it is fed under the sawing when the tablet moves along the guide grooves towards the saw.

    In order to cut a baguette on one side of the frame, you need to mark its inner dimensions with a pencil. Then the baguette is pressed (from the outside) to the corresponding stop bar so that the length mark is opposite the slot. Now, when moving the tablet towards the saw blade, the baguette is cut at an angle of 45 ° automatically. In the same way, the ends of all other rails that form a frame are cut off.

    Gluing press

    However, preparing parts of the frame is still half the battle. The next task is to reliably glue them together. A very simple press for assembling them will help out here. It consists of four ties - wooden slats made of hard wood with a section of 30 × 30 mm, with holes drilled into them with a diameter of 4 mm. The ties are connected in pairs with each other by means of a loop - a connecting bar with dimensions of 100x30x30 mm and bolts with nuts (flush in). In addition to the ties, four locking angles are made. They are cut from 30 mm thick hardwood blocks. Each retainer has a spike at the bottom - a screwed in screw with a diameter of 4 mm, with a cut off head.

    1 - ties (perforated slats); 2 - connecting loop; 3 - angle brackets; 4 - clamp

    In order to activate the press, the ties are laid on a flat surface (table) in the form of the letter X. Depending on the size of the frame, the clips are inserted into the corresponding holes of the ties. It remains to apply glue to the joints of the baguette slats to be connected "on the mustache" and put them in the clips. Now you need a single clamp. With its help, the connecting bars of the screeds are pulled together, and therefore the baguette ends in the clips, ensuring their tight connection and holding them in the desired position until the glue seizes.

    With this device, you can glue wood panels different sizes... The clamp itself is easy to use and has a fairly simple design. In the presence of necessary materials making such a clamp for a home workshop will not be difficult.

    To make homemade clamps (they are also called clamps), you will need a stud with M10 nuts, a steel strip of 20 mm and two rectangular shaped pipes with sides of 40x20 mm and 80 cm long. These materials can be bought inexpensively at a hardware store.

    Clamps for gluing panels: stages of work

    On shaped pipes we make markings and drill through holes every 15 cm, using a conventional or step drill for this. We cut the steel strip with a grinder into pieces of 150 mm in length. We drill two holes of the required diameter in these plates.

    We connect the profile pipes to each other using plates. You will also need stops - a movable square shape and a fixed T-shape, welded from a profile with side dimensions of 20x20 mm. We screw a hairpin of a suitable length into the movable clamp.


    Features of using the clamp

    It is good because when gluing wooden boards clamps the workpiece from four sides in two planes. Thus, the gluing is very high quality. By moving the T-shaped fixed stop, you can adjust the length. See the video on our website for the assembly process for gluing wood panels.


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