If repairs are being started or are already ongoing in your house, then you will certainly face the question of how to lay tiles on cement. We are happy to inform you that it is quite possible to do it yourself! This will take some time and patience, but the result will please you, besides, you will not have to overpay for work, mask or redo flaws for negligent workers. So, arm yourself with everything you need - and go!

Any construction and repair work should begin with the selection of high-quality material. Therefore, you also have to approach this issue with a sober calculation. You will need the freshest cement (after a year of storage, it can lose a significant share of its gluing ability), it is better to choose, of course, a better brand, for example, from 300. Stock up on high-quality sand, coarse-grained sand is best, but clean, without small debris and pebbles. If you are not sure about the purity of the sand, pass it through a sieve.

Mix the cement mortar. For grade 300-400, take the ratio of 1 part of cement to 5 parts of sand, for grades 500-600, a ratio of 1 to 6 is suitable. In order for the tile to hold tighter, add PVA glue to the solution, about 1/25 of the total volume of the mixture. Do not leave the diluted solution, as it will quickly harden irreversibly.

Install lighthouse tiles on the floor that you will be equal to so that the rows are neat. Pull the cord at the level of the beacons, apply cement along it. Do not apply the solution over a large area to avoid drying out during work. The cement layer should be 5 mm thicker than the lighthouse tile.

Take a tile, moisten its reverse side with water and seat it firmly in the solution. Press the tile with gentle tapping of the hammer. Adjust the shrinkage height carefully according to the cord. After finishing one row, seat it with a long bar - this will finally align the tile. Align further rows with the first.

In order for the tiled masonry to look aesthetically pleasing, after the final hardening of the cement, carefully treat the seams with a special tile grout. Today, in hardware stores you can find an extensive range of these products, you can even match the grout to the color of your tile. In addition to the aesthetic factor, the grout will increase the strength of the tiled masonry, as it will not allow water to soak and crumble the cement, besides, it is much easier to wash the debris accumulating there from the grouted joints.

Congratulations, you have just learned how to lay tiles on cement yourself! Now a little practice - and you will become a real professional in this matter. Good luck with the repair!

This article will describe the process of laying ceramic wall tiles with your own hands. The laying itself will require precision and accuracy from you, since this will directly depend on how even your surface of tiles will turn out.

materials

Laying ceramic tiles on the walls is carried out using special adhesives, mastics or cement mortar.

If the surface on which ceramic tiles are laid is flat, then it is best to use cement mortar or glue. The most popular among domestic consumers are ready-made mixtures: “Adhesive-sealant”, “Bustilat”, “PVA”, mastics “PSB” and “Gumilaks”, as well as other adhesive compositions focused on laying ceramic tiles on painted walls. oil paint, plastered, brick, concrete and wooden.

Mastics for tiles are usually made on the basis of rubber and rubber. Although it is easier to work with them, the service life of the tile attached to the wall with their help is short. Especially mastics do not withstand high temperatures.

Often, home craftsmen prefer to make mastic for laying wall tiles on their own. To do this, mix 3-4 parts of dry cement and 1 part of dry casein glue. to cooked liquid glue add a little more cement, break up the lumps and filter through a thick sieve. The working capabilities of home-made mastic last two days after preparation.

There is another recipe for making casein mastic. To do this, use 1 part (by weight) of casein powder, 2 parts of lime (“fluff”), 2 parts of water and 0.1 part of sodium fluoride, which acts as an antiseptic additive.

But the most reliable material for laying ceramic tiles on walls today is still cement mortar. Moreover, tiles of all varieties fit equally well on it and on almost all types of surfaces. Cement mortar is prepared from a ratio of 4 parts of sand to 1 part of dry cement.

Preparing for styling

What set of tools is needed in order to lay the tiles with your own hands? First of all, we need a spatula for plastering and a ruler (or a cross with divisions in millimeters). You will also need a glass cutter, a chisel and a hammer (for cutting and cutting tiles). A spatula, a level, a weight and a rule are indispensable in order to keep the tile laying uniform.

The technology of laying ceramic tiles provides for the preliminary preparation of the surface for work. Brick and concrete surfaces are prepared quite simply. The wooden wall needs serious and thorough preparation. A roofing material is glued onto it, on which, in turn, a metal mesh with cells ranging from 10x10mm to 30x30mm is fixed. The grid should be fixed so 10-15 mm from the wall.

Next, a cement mortar is applied to the wall and thoroughly leveled. In order for the adhesion of the tile to the wall to be sufficient, notches are applied to the wet coating in a chaotic manner and direction. After 5 days with three daily wetting, the coating is ready for use.

Laying methods

Before laying the tile, it is immersed in water for 8-10 hours. The tile is abundantly saturated with moisture, which has a positive effect on the strength of adhesion to mastic or cement mortar. It often happens that the technology was violated during the production of tiles, as a result of which stains appear under the enamel on the tiles.

To check the reputation of the manufacturer, several tiles are dried after soaking and placed on the mortar on the wall. If even after 2-3 days the tile coating remains unchanged, then the entire batch can be soaked. Otherwise, the tile should not be left in water, but it is enough to limit it to a wet wipe before laying on the mortar.

Laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar

The technology of laying ceramic tiles includes preliminary hanging of the walls before work using a plumb line. Next, it is necessary to plant several control tile tiles (“beacons”) on the mortar, which will determine the uniform level of the lined surface. For a small surface area, 4 “beacons” located in the corners are quite enough.

First, one “beacon” is laid, and then, applying the rule and the level, the second tile is laid horizontally. The rest of the beacons are adjusted according to the same principle. Do not forget to observe a single single solution thickness of 10-15 mm. With a significant surface area, beacons are placed at a distance of at least 0.5 m from each other.

Further, rails are installed on each side of the wall, to which a horizontal cord will be attached when laying the tiles. It is under this cord that each tile will be installed. Reiki are wooden bars, the length of which is about 2 m, and the cross section is 40x40 mm. At the last stage of facing work, the slats are removed, and the place where they stood is filled with tiles. Control the volume of mortar under the tile, as the tile is placed only on the gap between the tile and the base that is completely filled with mortar.

The width of each seam is controlled using plastic crosses or wedges, which are removed at the end of the work. The thickness of the crosses is from 1 to 5 mm.

If the tiles are laid before the flooring is laid, then it is necessary to put under the first row of tiles wooden lath with a thickness equal to the future level of the new floor.

In accordance with the technology of laying tiles, the mortar is placed on the tile in the form of a pyramid with a truncated top. After that, the tile is pressed against the wall. Attention: do not forget to ensure that the mortar under the tile fills the entire space! Excess mortar coming out along the edges of the tile is removed with a trowel.

After the mortar has hardened and the adhesive strength of the tile to the base has been checked, the entire inter-joint space should be carefully cleaned and filled with cement mortar (cement and sand 1: 1) or one of the special grouts designed to fill joints and produced in various color scheme. All excess is also removed, but with a damp cloth.

Putting ceramic tiles on mastic

By analogy with the method of laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar, ceramic tiles are also laid on a special mastic. The tile is placed under a stretched cord horizontally in a row.

First check the evenness of the wall. In this case, the deviation of the plumb line should be no more than 1.5 mm. The base is cleaned of stains of dirt and grease. The technology of laying tiles involves starting wall cladding from the lowest row. Since the floor is not always even, a wooden lath of a certain thickness is installed under the bottom row, due to which the tiles in the first row are laid strictly horizontally.

The wall is pre-coated with a 1-2 mm layer of mastic, and then the back side of the tile is rubbed with a damp cloth or brush and the same layer of mastic is applied to it. Next, the tile is pressed tightly against the surface of the wall and tapped with a bar designed for upsetting. In order for the mastic not to go down, wedges are knocked under the first row.

Cutting tiles and laying them on the wall

Since it is not always possible to lay tiles in whole units, sooner or later it will have to be cut. For correct pruning tiles, first draw a cut line, after which a glass cutter is drawn along it, while pressing hard on the tool with your hand. The tile cut with a glass cutter is taken in both hands and broken with a sharp movement along the cut line on the edge of the table. Narrow strips of tiles can be broken off along the cut line with pliers. There is even a special tool, which is a symbiosis of pliers and a glass cutter (manual tile cutter), using which you can greatly simplify the operation of cutting tiles. The price of such a device is available to any consumer and will be justified even with a single use.

Placement of tiles on the wall can be done seam to seam, in a run and diagonally:

• the option "seam to seam" is both symmetrical and non-symmetrical. With symmetrical laying, one tile is placed in the middle of the first lower row, and facing is carried out from it to the right and left. In this case, you will only have to cut the tiles that meet the corners. The asymmetric version differs in that the first tile is placed in one of the lower corners, and a row is drawn horizontally from it to the opposite corner. In this case, it will be necessary to cut the tile in only one of the corners. The asymmetric method gives a minimum of waste;
• placing tiles on the wall "in a run" allows you to cut only those tiles that are adjacent to the wall corner;
• diagonal placement of tiles is considered the most time-consuming process, since ceramic tiles will have to be laid not just like that, but by cutting them from each corner of the wall, as well as in the top and bottom rows.

Rules for laying tiles on the floor

Putting tiles on the floor with your own hands is quite simple. First, a cement mortar is prepared, to which a larger amount of sand is added than when laying tiles on walls. The ratio is 5-6 parts of sand to one part of dry cement. Laying ceramic floor tiles on a concrete floor is the easiest, as concrete does not need any preliminary preparation. The surface is moistened, and a layer of pure cement 3 mm thick is sown on top through a thick sieve. When the cement absorbs water from the surface of the concrete floor and turns into a pasty state, tiles can be laid on it. It is not necessary to apply a solution to the tile itself.

Along with pure cement, a mortar mixed in a 1:1 ratio with sand can be used. The thickness of the applied layer should also be about 3 mm. In the case of a very relief and uneven screed, the mortar layer can reach 15 mm. With small dimensions of the room (up to 10 sq.m), “beacons” are laid on the plaster in the corners of the surface to be lined. First, one of the tiles is laid, and then, in accordance with the level measurement, the second tile is laid horizontally. The rest of the beacons are adjusted according to the same principle. As soon as the beacons are in place, we put the rest of the tile, not forgetting to check the accuracy of laying with the level and rule. You can set the tile to the desired level using the handle of the spatula. After laying the first row of tiles, the beacons are removed, the place under them is cleared of gypsum mortar and filled with tiles, which are already set on a permanent cement mortar.

We have learned how to lay tiles on the floor correctly, and now we will consider the final stage of work.

Final stage of work

All cement mortar that has come out on the surface of the tile should be removed. After 2-3 days, it is necessary to prepare cement milk or grout, which will fill all the cavities of the joints between the tiles. After another 1-2 days, the floor surface is repeatedly wiped with a damp cloth, completely removing traces of cement from the tile. In this case, the cement remains only in the seams. If it is problematic to remove the cement mortar from the surface of the tile, then a 3% solution of hydrochloric acid is applied to the tile, which should be washed off with water after a few minutes. The floor will be ready for use in 1 week.

Video on installing tiles on the wall

How to lay a tile with your own hands? How to lay tiles on a cement mortar floor

Laying tiles on the floor using cement mortar. Cheap.

This "aged" technology of laying tiles on the floor has several advantages. No cleaning required floor covering for laying tiles with special leveling of the surface. It is enough to keep the general horizontal. In addition, expensive adhesive mixtures are not used here, and cement mortar is used to lay tiles on the floor. This way of laying tiles better fit for relatively large secondary rooms where it is not required to withstand design solutions, and it is not necessary to seal tile joints with colored compounds. In this technology, both pure cement and its mixture with sand in a one-to-one ratio can be used. In any case, before starting work, the cement mixture must be sieved through a fine sieve.

Before the mass laying of tiles on the floor, beacons are placed. They are placed in the center in the corners of the room, and if

the room is large either along the walls and along the central lines. The lighthouse is actually the same tile, only laid on a gypsum mortar so that it can be easily removed later. The first beacon sets the overall level of the floor, so it must be placed especially carefully in the highest place. Further, using the level, the remaining beacons are set, strictly in a horizontal plane with the starting point (beacon).

The concrete base is filled with water, and covered with a sand-cement mixture. A liquid solution is formed on the floor, in which the tiles will be laid. The sufficient thickness of the layer of the resulting mortar is at least 3 mm, and in case of irregularities, the cement-sand mixture can be added up to 30 mm. The tile itself is not lubricated with mortar before laying on the floor. The tile is laid in a row between the beacons, while it is pressed into the solution, and its position is controlled by the rule and the level. After that, the beacons in the row are removed, and mortar tiles are laid in their place. The squeezed solution is immediately removed and used elsewhere.

The laid tiles are allowed to fix for at least one day. After that, to fill the tile joints, a liquid solution is poured onto the floor, which fills these joints.

After 2 - 3 days, the remaining cement from the tile is wiped off with a rag moistened with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution, which is washed off with water after a few minutes. Of course, this technology does not correspond to modern ideas about laying tiles on the floor. The strength, durability, and water resistance of such a tiled flooring is in doubt. But the technology of laying tiles on a cement-sand mortar immediately over large areas has its advantages - low cost and high speed of work.

The operation of the floor can begin no earlier than 7 days after laying the tiles.

stroy-block.com.ua

Can tiles be glued to cement?

I want to change the tiles in the kitchen, the neighbor says, he glued it on cement with glue (pva), I looked in the store two roads away, they offer only Master cement. Normal for this purpose? BigSerg 3 years ago Tiles can be glued to cement and all kinds of glue and adhesives. For example - on liquid nails, on Bustilat glue and others. The question is price and result. On cement, tiles are usually laid on the floor, sometimes directly on a fresh screed, until it has hardened. I would advise gluing the tiles with a special tile adhesive that is sold as a dry mix. At the same time, you can be sure of the results and choose the adhesive according to the necessary parameters - for outdoor, internal works, frost-resistant adhesive, etc. 3 years ago Well, if there is no desire to use ordinary tile adhesive, then you can mix cement with sand and PVA glue, or with Bustilat diluted with water, or with oil paint instead of adding water. All these additives enhance the adhesion of the tile, the tile will hold better than if you just lay it on the cement mortar. But it is better to do this if you got some of the components of this explosive mixture free of charge, i.e. for nothing, otherwise the cost of such homemade glue will be much higher than the cost of purchased glue. 3 years ago In fact, tiles are not glued to cement, but laid. And to be precise, not for cement, but for cement mortar. This is a well-known mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. One part of cement and three sand. Well, then water and mixing. But there is one very serious moment here, which is known to any master tiler. If suddenly you ever need to remove the tile, then the subsequent cleaning of the wall or the removed tile is a hell of a job - the cement mortar is very poorly cleaned from the applied surfaces. A tiled one, for example, is fashionable to clean off with an elementary simple spatula, and if soaked, it will generally be removed as fresh. Of course, how and on what to lay the tiles is up to you. But personally, I would consider cement mortar only if there is nothing else at all. But there are a lot of options on what you can put or glue tiles on! over a year ago Most likely your neighbor did not mean cement, but cement mortar. It differs in that cement is a finely binding fraction, which pulls other substances together, but cannot combine well with each other. Therefore, nothing will definitely work on cement, it will simply crumble later and the tile will fly off. But now let's decide between cement mortar and tile adhesive, which is better and can be used: cement mortar Composition of a mixture of at least cement, sand and water in certain proportions. Depending on the brand of cement, the quality of the sand and the amount of water, solid materials of different physical properties are obtained after the evaporation of water. You can get a material that is difficult to drill even with a drill. But for this it is necessary not only to mix all the substances in the solution in the correct proportions, but also to select these substances according to certain quality standards. Such a solution is best bonded into a monolithic mass and is worse glued to an already finished surface. Tile adhesive In principle, this is still the same cement mortar, but with certain additives that increase the adhesion properties (adhesion) of this composition to other materials. Here's the advice - if you can prepare a high-quality cement mortar yourself at home and add PVA there (as it has been advised since the times of the USSR), then this mortar will fundamentally not differ in any way from tile adhesive. Look not at the name of the cement, but at its brand, 500 or 400 is best. add to favorites link thank Kim Jong-un over a year ago No, only cement is not allowed. Cement is a part of the whole (the whole, in this case, is a cement-sand mortar), that is, a binder (binder). Cement needs sand and this is the minimum. Cement in its pure form was not used even during the Soviet Union when laying tiles (then there was no tile adhesive). The Soviet version of "glue" is cement + seeded sand + PVA glue. The option is quite working, but you need to remember the following points: Working with such a solution, the tile must first be soaked (when working on tile adhesive, the tile is not soaked). No matter how you sift the sand, you cannot reach the tile adhesive fraction, that is, you need to be prepared for a larger layer under the tile. The quality of the cladding on such a solution and on tile adhesive is different, on glue it is higher and by a lot. If you completely switch to the "ancient" technology, then on some walls (for example, gypsum) along the course of laying, you also need to constantly wet the walls. All this technology is in the past, the savings are not significant, but there is a lot of "fuss", and the quality is lame. 2 years ago Tiles laid on cement diluted with water will definitely not last long for a simple reason: cement without fine aggregate will not release enough laitance to be absorbed by the tile and serve as a bond between the tile and the substrate. Modern tiles has, for the most part, low water absorption (less than 5%), which means that it is kept on the base due to glue with good adhesion, which cement cannot boast of. Previously, Soviet tiles were laid on a cement-sand mortar, but that tile had a VERY high water absorption - it even had to be soaked in water before laying. Even on mixed cement with PVA without a fine filler, you will be tormented to glue the tiles, since the base and tiles must be perfectly even, because you will not make a decent layer under the tiles - the thick composition will instantly harden, and the liquid will float away from under the tiles. Without additional plasticizers and retarders, a plastic solution will not work. Unless only on the floor can be laid on a liquid solution, but floor tiles, as you know, have even less water absorption than wall tiles. Previously, when there were no dry adhesive mixtures, they made a "thick grinder" - they mixed cement, PVA, paint and chalk (as a filler). Tiles laid on such a "glue" held up perfectly, even now sometimes it is difficult to knock them down when repairing old houses. 2 years ago You can glue tiles on cement. It all depends on the mortar on which you will lay the tiles. Take cement better brands 300-400 to 5 parts of sand (coarse-grained sand is better, without debris and pebbles (it is better to sift through a sieve)), if cement grades are 500-600, then the ratio should be 1:6. Do not forget to add 1/25 of the total volume of PVA glue and hurry up - the solution quickly hardens ... irrevocably. add to favorites link thank you Do you know the answer?

See also:

www.remotvet.ru

How to lay tiles on cement?

If repairs are being started or are already ongoing in your house, then you will certainly face the question of how to lay tiles on cement. We are happy to inform you that it is quite possible to do it yourself! This will take some time and patience, but the result will please you, besides, you will not have to overpay for work, mask or redo flaws for negligent workers. So, arm yourself with everything you need - and go!

Any construction and repair work should begin with the selection of high-quality material. Therefore, you also have to approach this issue with a sober calculation. You will need the freshest cement (after a year of storage, it can lose a significant share of its gluing ability), it is better to choose, of course, a better brand, for example, from 300. Stock up on high-quality sand, coarse-grained sand is best, but clean, without small debris and pebbles. If you are not sure about the purity of the sand, pass it through a sieve.

Mix the cement mortar. For grade 300-400, take the ratio of 1 part of cement to 5 parts of sand, for grades 500-600, a ratio of 1 to 6 is suitable. In order for the tile to hold tighter, add PVA glue to the solution, about 1/25 of the total volume of the mixture. Do not leave the diluted solution, as it will quickly harden irreversibly.

Install lighthouse tiles on the floor that you will be equal to so that the rows are neat. Pull the cord at the level of the beacons, apply cement along it. Do not apply the solution over a large area to avoid drying out during work. The cement layer should be 5 mm thicker than the lighthouse tile.

Take a tile, moisten its reverse side with water and seat it firmly in the solution. Press the tile with gentle tapping of the hammer. Adjust the shrinkage height carefully according to the cord. After finishing one row, seat it with a long bar - this will finally align the tile. Align further rows with the first.

In order for the tiled masonry to look aesthetically pleasing, after the final hardening of the cement, carefully treat the seams with a special tile grout. Today, in hardware stores you can find an extensive range of these products, you can even match the grout to the color of your tile. In addition to the aesthetic factor, the grout will increase the strength of the tiled masonry, as it will not allow water to soak and crumble the cement, besides, it is much easier to wash the debris accumulating there from the grouted joints.

Congratulations, you have just learned how to lay tiles on cement yourself! Now a little practice - and you will become a real professional in this matter. Good luck with the repair!

www.uznay-kak.ru

Laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar. >%

Everything that will be said below does not call for a return to 30-year-old technologies. This knowledge is necessary to understand the basis of durability in facing processes.

To begin with, two examples of how tiles hold on to cement mortar, with the right technology.

The first case is a tile on the walls of a bathhouse built 50 years ago. According to all the layouts, the cladding should have crumbled immediately after the closure of the bath complex. Wet walls, wet tiles in an unheated room, plus frost, etc…

The second case is the reconstruction of a pool built 25 years ago. Conditions for tiled cladding are also not so hot:

And then, in continuation of the topic, cutting photographs, where the structures (sculptures) stood, uncovered, for several centuries. On the eaves of the temple, without ebb, snow accumulated every winter, and melted in the spring. And despite such conditions, there are no traces of destruction.

So, there was an effective technology, without modern blends and primers, which allowed to achieve such results. So it's not the mix?

Safety of structures.

In addition to ceramic tiles, earlier, on cement mortar, marble cladding was made. Many facades with such decoration have survived to this day (this is 30-40 years old). The technology is simple. Marble slabs were installed at a distance of 1-2 cm from the wall. They fixed it with a temporary support and poured a liquid cement mortar into the gap. In a ratio of 1:2.

This technology is still used in natural stone wall cladding on the outside of the building.

Which important points It should be noted:

• Natural stone (including marble) is a porous material.
• The solution has a high brand. No less than modern adhesive mixtures.
• The solution is liquid. The surface of the wall and stone is not wetted by water and the solution penetrates as much as possible into the pores of the wall and stone, without creating a dry film on the border of materials.

Technology of laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar.

The technology of cladding on cement mortar is based on the above listed properties.

In the case of floor tiles, a freshly laid thick screed is poured with liquid cement milk to create a contact layer. Tiles, with this technology, do not need to be wetted. Floor ceramics have a dense structure, with low water absorption. The moisture content of the liquid solution is sufficient to create a reliable contact.

And when facing walls - the tiles are soaked for 5-8 seconds in water. This is necessary for two reasons:

• The solution is prepared convenient for styling, that is, thicker. Under such conditions, there is not enough moisture and a layer of dry mixture appears, at the border of the tile - mortar.
• Wall tiles have a large water absorption, more than 3%. Such a surface absorbs moisture strongly. Cement milk on such a surface could help. But in practice it is difficult to implement. Therefore, they compromise, with partial soaking. Longer soaking also gives a negative result. The pores in the ceramic, saturated with water, stop drawing in the solution.

The correct solution (by density) is clear in the following video. In the same place, you can see a system of three lines - two vertical and one horizontal. Fishing lines allow you to make lining in one vertical plane.

The only moment is that the tile is dry (as far as this can be understood from watching the video). With this approach, it will fall away, over time, with a clean reverse side.

Is it always possible to lay tiles on cement?

Based on the properties on which the technology is built, porcelain stoneware is ill-suited for such a case. It has the lowest water absorption. Adhesion occurs on the surface, due to the ribbed back surface, without penetration into the pores.

Indoors, such strength may be sufficient, but outdoor temperature drops will undermine the tiles:

There is an example of laying terracotta tiles on a mortar (street). And do not consider those masters as idiots. They have their own, proven technology, confirmed by examples. If you carefully understand their actions, then they fit into the above rules.

Terracotta tiles are being laid on a fresh screed, poured the day before (yesterday). This material has good porosity. Laying is carried out on a liquid layer of cement mortar. Looks like one piece of cement. Works are carried out in Cambodia or Vietnam. The temperature is positive throughout the year:

Advantages of laying ceramic tiles on the mortar.

1. Cheapness. There are no costs for adhesive mixtures, a primer.
2. No need to level the plane with plaster. The materials that are needed for the leveling layer are used in the cladding.
3. The speed of facing on mortar is lower than with mixtures. But taking into account the whole process (starting from plastering and technological breaks), it is faster.

If desired, you can use crosses, followed by filling the joints with grout. So they did at the time of the first renovations.

The presence of a laser plane builder simplifies the installation of vertical lines. The laser allows you to set the beam at a distance of 8 mm from the wall. You can do without a line system by installing the device on the first row of cladding, in the place where there is still no tile. And facing to lead along the beam. How much more convenient it is - it's hard to say. The beam, even green, hits the eyes.

Installation of a scaffolding system for laying wall tiles on mortar.

101ohibka.ru

technology of laying on cement mortar

Ceramic tiles are used to cover walls in rooms with increased humidity. This beautiful and durable material is used not only to protect the walls of the room from moisture, but also to decorate the kitchen and bathroom. Is it possible to lay a tile with your own hands in the shortest possible time? How to do this, while observing all the rules for laying tiles on the wall? To answer these questions, consider the technology of such work and the possibility of reducing the time of its implementation.

If you have not dealt with facing before, then it is better to lay the tiles in a horizontal manner.

The first stage is the preparation process

They start with the purchase of tiles, tools, glue (mastic) or cement. Ceramic tiles different sizes and flowers can be purchased at the construction market or in a store. When choosing glue, you should be guided by the following considerations:

• if the tile is laid on a wall with a flat surface, then glue can be used;
• in case of cracks and irregularities on a wall tiled with ceramic tiles, it is advisable to use a cement mortar;
• it is possible to use mastics for sticking tiles, but it must be taken into account that they are usually made using rubber components and therefore do not withstand high temperatures well.

Given all of the above, to reduce costs, it is best to use glue-cement. It consists of already mixed parts of both components, and it is easy to apply even for a beginner. True, its cost is quite high - 2-3 times more than that of cement.

You will also need to purchase plastic crosses - they are placed in the seams between the tiles. You will also need a mixture for grouting.

For a high-quality and fast sticker of ceramic plates, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls.

For concrete and brick walls, preparation consists in leveling the surface using the following technology:

• the level and plumb line check the horizontalness of the wall at several points - at the corners and in its middle part; the discrepancy should not exceed 3-4 mm;
• with a metal corner, the joints of the walls with the ceiling are checked - deviations are permissible within 2-3 mm;
• with large irregularities and cracks on the walls, they are leveled with cement mortar;
• after it dries, the influxes are removed and the surface of the wall is cleaned with sandpaper.

If the surface to be tiled is wooden, then it must be carefully prepared:

Optimal dimensions crosses - 4-5 mm.

• the wall is covered with roofing material;
• fixed on it metal mesh with cells 1 X 1 cm so that the distance from it to the wall is 1-1.5 cm;
• cement mortar is applied to the surface and carefully leveled;
• a notch is applied to the still wet coating with a sharp spatula to create conditions for a good connection of the wall with ceramic tiles;
• after 6 days, the coating is ready for further work; at the same time, do not forget to wet the surface of the wall 3 times a day, otherwise cracks will go along it when it dries completely.

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Some working tricks

Before laying on the walls, put the tiles in water for 9 hours. This is done to impregnate the tile and its subsequent strong connection with the adhesive solution. To check the quality of the tile itself, the following method is used:

• soak several ceramic tiles from the purchased batch;
• lay them on the wall with cement mortar;
• they wait two days, and if the tiles do not fall off the wall and stains do not appear on their surface or they do not crack, you can soak the entire purchased batch of tiles.

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The technology of laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar

After leveling the walls, they begin the main work:

• several tiles are fixed on the vertical surface of the room to be glued with cement mortar - these are the so-called beacons, according to the level of which the rest of the tile is laid out;
• if the wall small size, then usually four beacons installed in the corners of the wall are enough;
• the very process of laying such pointers is carried out as follows: one beacon is fixed and, using a plumb line and level, the second tile is fixed horizontally next to it; install beacons in other corners;
• on each side of the wall, wooden slats are strengthened (their dimensions are: length 2-2.5 m, cross section - 4 X 1 cm) - they serve to fix the horizontal cord, which is used to indicate the level of laying a row of ceramic tiles;
• to control the width of the seam between the tiles, plastic crosses are used, at the end of work they are removed;
• if the tile should be laid before the flooring, a rail with a thickness equal to the height of the future floor is strengthened under the first row of tiles;
• the solution is placed on the tile with a spatula or in the form of a pyramid, or glue is applied to the corners and middle of the tile in the form of balls;
• the tile is pressed against the wall so that the mortar occupies the entire space between its surface, and the excess is removed with a trowel;
• after the wall is completely covered with tiles and the solution has dried, the seams are rubbed with a special mastic, matched to the color of the tiles and the masonry is wiped with a dry rag;
• to move to adjacent surfaces, plastic squares are used, installed in the corners of the walls, from which they continue to install whole tiles on the next wall;
• if you still have to cut the plates, then this is done using a special manual machine for cutting tiles, either use a glass cutter or a metal pencil with a winning tip.

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Trimming ceramic tiles

To perform this operation correctly, you must adhere to the following rules:

Techniques for cutting tiles: a - marking with a thickness gauge; b - cutting the glaze with a cutter; c, d - breaking the tile along the notch on the bar and with a tile breaker.

• a cut line is drawn on the plate;
• strongly pressing with a glass cutter or a pencil with a victorious tip, draw along the intended line and make an incision;
• pick up a tile and break the tile with a sharp blow on the edge of the table;
• if the strip is narrow, then use pliers, breaking off the material along the cut line;
• the use of a special machine facilitates such work, and if you need to lay a significant amount of tiles, then it is better not to skimp on such a tool;
• when cutting, two methods are used - for symmetrical and asymmetrical laying of tiles; with the first, only those tiles that are closer to the corners are cut, and with the second, they are cut in only one place;
• with the diagonal method of laying the plates, only the tiles that are adjacent to the corners of the wall itself are cut, but with such a modification of the surface pasting, a lot of waste is obtained.

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The method of laying tiles with a special mastic

When using this adhesive mass instead of cement, the tile is laid according to the technology described above, with the difference that:

• when checking the evenness of the wall with a plumb line, the discrepancy should be no more than 1-1.5 mm;
• the surface is thoroughly cleaned from dirt, paint stains and grease;
• wall cladding should be started from the lowest row - an even wooden lath of small thickness is installed on the floor, which allows the row to be laid strictly horizontally;
• before sticking the tiles, the wall is covered with a 2 mm layer of mastic, and then rubbed over the surface with a damp cloth;
• on the reverse side of the tile with a brush, apply the same layer of mastic and press it against the wall, tapping with a small bar for proper upsetting;
• so that the mastic does not move down, small wooden wedges must be knocked under the first row;
• thus, tiling the entire wall.

A few of the main elements that are used in ceramic tiling are the mixture and crosses for laying tiles. And it is the mixture that becomes a rather interesting point, since there are a number of its varieties, and in addition, you can use both a regular solution and special adhesive compositions.

Mix for tiles and its features

When solving cladding with tiles, the first step is to finish the walls. For these elements, you can use a conventional solution, which is made on the basis of sand and cement, as well as ready-made adhesives.

Ready-made glue can be sold both in the form of a mixture already prepared for use, and in the form of a powdered material, which must be further diluted. Preparation of mixtures is carried out strictly according to the instructions on the package.

Ready-made dry compositions are cement with the addition of a special modifying agent. Usually found in packages of 5 or 25 kg.

Some nuances

Considering the floor cladding, it should be noted that it is large, in contrast to the walls, which exceeds 3 mm. And because what solution is needed for the tile will be determined by some factors.

1. First of all, the evenness of the base. Since in the presence of irregularities, it is advisable to use a cement mortar, which will not only serve as glue, but also help smooth out the irregularities. In this case, the thickness of the solution layer can reach 3 cm. In turn, the use of ready-made adhesive mixtures requires a perfectly flat surface.
2. The type of tile is also an important factor. Considering, for example, porcelain stoneware, this material has low adhesion, therefore, a mixture for laying tiles of this type should contain special plasticizers that improve this indicator.
3. The human factor, or rather, the economic one, also has an impact. Since a self-prepared mixture is cheaper than a ready-made one, therefore, if everything indicates the possibility of using a standard cement mortar, then it is better to use it.

Speaking, by the way, about the issue of savings, there are also several factors here:

1. When finishing cement base, the solution will be spent slightly more than when laying on concrete.
2. There is also another factor regarding tiles. In particular, glazed will require less solution for itself than unglazed.

Structure and composition

Considering the finished adhesive for laying tiles on the floor, it is almost impossible to fully know the composition, since this is the secret of the manufacturer. A big plus of such mixtures is that they are divided into different types, intended for various conditions operation and surfaces. Thus, we can distinguish:

1. Universal glue. It is used in standard conditions for flat surfaces.
2. Reinforced, which is often used when laying fragile tiles.
3. Non-traditional compositions designed, for example, for glass or metal tiles.

At the same time, the standard composition of the cement mortar is known to everyone. It also adds cement and sand in various proportions, depending on the brand of the first element. In particular:

1. With cement M300 - 3 parts of sand.
2. For M400 - 4 parts of sand.
3. For M500 or M600 - 5 parts.

The sand itself must be sifted, which is done to remove debris and clay.

If necessary, enhance adhesion, also add standard PVA glue. It is added in a ratio of 1 to 50, where the first value is the proportion of glue, and the second is the proportion of the total amount of the mixture. To put it more clearly, for 10 liters of solution, 200 g of glue is added.

Also, when laying tiles, the tile adhesive does not always meet the requirements for elasticity and water resistance.

In some cases, to increase elasticity, you can use detergents. For example, liquid soap, shampoo or diluted powder.

If it is necessary to improve frost resistance, then special additives are used for this, for example, Primer EC-30. It is a universal hardening accelerator, which, accordingly, gives resistance to low temperatures.

Solution preparation

Now it is necessary to consider the preparation of both the finished composition and the one made independently.

Ready dry mix

Let's start with the finished mixture. In this case, the first step is to carefully read the instructions, which are usually located on the package. In some cases, additionally attached.

The main thing is not to pour water into the dry mixture, but to do the opposite.. Otherwise, lumps will remain, which will affect the quality. The cooking process itself is as follows:

An important factor is the temperature of the water. It should not be cold, warm or hot. The liquid is used strictly at room temperature. Otherwise, the components of the composition may lose their properties. Directly the temperature in the room during the work should be in the range from 10 to 24 degrees.

At the recommended temperature, the mixture for floor tiles It freezes quite quickly, so large batches are not recommended. It is advisable to prepare as much glue as you can use within 30-40 minutes.

As you know, tiles are often soaked before laying, and the base itself is moistened. When laying on glue, this is not recommended.

Homemade cement mortar

In the case when a self-preparation solution is chosen, and not an adhesive for laying tiles on the floor, you need to clearly know how to prepare it, which we will discuss further.

The preparation is as follows:

Tiles before such laying, while the period of being in water is 8-10 hours. Just for starters, soak one tile, because if you come across a material of poor quality, then as a result, ugly ones will appear under the enamel yellow spots that ruins the whole look of the room.

In the event that, after soaking and laying on cement, the sample is not lost appearance, then the whole tile is soaked. If soaking is not possible, then immediately before laying it is necessary to wipe the back side with a damp cloth.

When laying floor tiles with self-made tile adhesive is done on a concrete base, the job is somewhat simplified. In this case, a sufficient process will be to pour water on the surface, and pour cement through a sieve. Next, the tiles are laid on the resulting "dough".

Most Common Mistakes

Quite often, when quick laying of tiles is planned, a number of mistakes are made when preparing the mortar:

1. Often one comes across poor quality sand, not sifted and not dried, and in a hurry this is used.
2. Also, an unacceptable mistake is the use of old cement, which often loses its properties.
3. Water should only be used clean, in no case should not be used sea ​​water or dirty, settled.
4. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed so that no lumps remain, which entails a loss of quality.
5. It is also a mistake to lay tiles with increased requirements (for example, porcelain stoneware) on a standard adhesive mixture or cement mortar.

It was a series of mistakes when using cement mortar, now consider the use of ready-made compounds:

1. The use of cold or hot water is strictly prohibited.
2. You can not fill the mixture first, and then pour water, in which case lumps will form.
3. Do not soak the tile or moisten the base.
4. Containers for cooking must be clean, after each batch it is necessary to clean and wash.
5. It is necessary to stir the composition at a low speed of rotation of the mixer. At a high speed, the mixture will foam, at a low speed, lumps will remain.

And finally a little advice if you plan to lay tiles on tiles, our article on this topic will help to solve.

Today, manufacturers produce many varieties of facing, floor and paving slabs. Made from natural and artificial stone, ceramics, cement compositions, porcelain stoneware and even glass. Each of these materials requires the use of a suitable adhesive solution to hold the tile to the substrate firmly and permanently.

Based on pure cement

This is the simplest tile solution, it is diluted with water to the consistency of a thin dough. It is applied to facing of the concrete base of a floor.

To do this, pour water on the floor, add dry cement and press the tile into the resulting “dough” according to the figure. This composition of cement mortar for tiles successfully competes with the following option.

Based on cement and sand

When laying tiles on, in addition to water and cement, pure (preferably river, sifted through a sieve) is added to the solution. Similar solutions (with a different ratio of sand and cement) are used for laying:

• facing with ceramic products of a floor and walls.

So, for example, stone, ceramic or glass tiles can be laid on a composition that includes 2.5 parts of sand, one part of dry cement and 0.4 parts of water. This is an approximate recipe - we will be more specific depending on the conditions and characteristics of the tile.

To increase the plastic and strength properties, PVA glue is often added to the mixture. More modern additives are acrylic or latex (available in liquid form). You can replace part of the water with such an additive to improve the quality of the solution. If put natural stone, then it is advisable to add a plasticizer to the cement-sand mortar.

Dry adhesive mixtures

They are sold in bags in the form of ready-made powder, diluted with water according to the recipe. In most cases, the basis for them is cement (less often -). When the powder is diluted with water, the action of special modifying additives included in the mixture is manifested.

As additives can be used:

• catalysts (hardening accelerators) or, conversely, hardening retarders;
• polymeric substances that enhance the adhesive ability of the solution (latex or acrylic);
• hydrophobic substances that increase water resistance;
• dyes.

Using ready-made dry mixes is much more convenient than homemade cement mortar. But they are more expensive, and also require careful alignment of the facing base. The most popular brands: Atlas, Sopro, Eunice, Vetonit (Optirok), Ceresit, Kreisel.

Ready viscous mastics

• Packed in plastic buckets, like dry formulations, they require a flat base (preferably or drywall).
• Apply in a thin layer.
• Made on the basis of latex or petroleum products with the addition of glue and other additional components.
• Easy to use, but does not hold tiles as tightly as cement-based compounds.
• Mainly used for ceramics.
• Can't stand heat.

The difference in masonry mixtures

For walls and floors

In principle, there is no difference in the composition of the adhesive mixture. For laying tiles on walls and floors, the same composition of the mortar can be used (except for home-made cement-sand, you can add a little more sand).

The difference lies only in the thickness of the mortar layer (it will be thinner for walls), and also in the fact that when facing the floor, the masonry mixture is applied to the base, and when finishing the walls - to the back side of the tile. About solutions for laying (laying) tiles on the street, on the porch and indoors, read their proportions below.

Note that tiling can also be done on painted walls, which will be described in detail in the following video:

For outdoor and indoor work

As a rule, the package with any dry adhesive mixture indicates for what conditions it is recommended to use it. And if a universal mixture is used indoors (for example, Ceresit CM 11 Plus), then another option is produced for outdoor use, which is more resistant to atmospheric influences.

For this purpose, special ingredients are added that give resistance to frost, increase elasticity (which will make it easy to withstand temperature changes) and moisture resistance. An example is the frost-resistant mixtures Ceresit CM17, Eunice 2000, Ceresit CM117.

As for the traditional sand-cement mortar, it is suitable for both indoor and outdoor cladding. The composition holds ceramics well. But vertical planes Still, it's best not to use it. It is also not suitable for clinker with porcelain stoneware, which are laid only on special adhesive mixtures.

We talked about preparing a mortar for laying street tiles, now it's the turn of elements of various sizes.

The following video will be useful to all those who decide to make their own paving mortar with a waterproof composition:

For small and large items

Exists general rule: the smaller the tile, the more liquid solution is needed for it. In addition, heavy tiles (with an area of ​​​​30 by 30 centimeters or more) are recommended to be placed on adhesive mixtures marked “reinforced”. These are, for example, Kreisel 103, Kreisel 104.

For dry and wet conditions

If in the kitchen or corridor it is possible to lay tiles on almost any universal mortar (even gypsum-based), then for facing the pool, for example, an adhesive mixture of a special composition is required.

It should not collapse or flake off under prolonged exposure to water. For this, hydrophobic substances are added. Examples: Ceresit CM117, ANSERGLOB BCX44.

For normal and elevated temperatures

There is no excessive heating of surfaces inside residential premises, therefore, universal and basic dry mixes, as well as cement mortars, are suitable for gluing tiles. But if the surface of a stove or fireplace is exposed to cladding (which today is often installed in private homes), then a special composition must be used - refractory.

For example, adhesives K-77 (with refractory mineral fillers), Pechnik (based on a cement-sand mixture with fire-resistant additives), Termix (based on aluminate cement with additives).

The following video will just tell you about the composition and preparation of the mortar for tiling a real stove: