We cover a young clematis bush for the winter. And on the same subject. short pruning clematis

At the word "clematis" the hearts of most gardeners shrink with delight. And not only because they give the garden a special charm with their beauty, variety and duration of flowering, but also because growing these “garden butterflies” and caring for them is far from an easy task. So, this is a goal to which it is interesting to strive. After all, the beauty of clematis, which pleases the eye all summer, is definitely worth all the effort. The article will discuss the nuances of cropping and proper cultivation clematis.

How to plant clematis

There are two opposing views on this issue, both of which are correct. Clematis can be planted either in early summer (when there is a 100% guarantee of the absence of night frosts) or in early autumn (but no later than a month before the expected frosts). Many believe that the second method, at first glance, more risky, allows flowers to take root much better in a new place.

• But the habitat of clematis in any case should be bright (but not under the scorching sun) and, most importantly, as protected from the wind as possible.
• Regarding the composition of the soil, these flowers prefer neutral, slightly acidic and alkaline. In any case, when planting a clematis sprout, you should make sure that the soil is truly nutritious for it. To do this, based on one seedling, you need to stock up: superphosphate (approximately 100 grams), humus (1.5 buckets) and clay (as loose as possible).

• It is very important that ground water does not pass too close to the surface, because. clematis do not tolerate waterlogging. If such a problem exists, then at the bottom of the hole dug for planting clematis, you need to pour a layer of drainage from gravel or just broken bricks.
• When digging a hole, the gravity of the soil should be taken into account. For a light one, a size of 50x50 cm will be enough, for a denser one - 70x70 cm. The severity of the soil also affects the degree of deepening of the clematis seedling, the denser the soil, the deeper it should be planted. On light soils, this is 5-6 cm in the first year, on heavy soils - 8-10 cm. A year later, the plant is deepened by about the same amount.
• The distance between the pits for planting should not be less than 70 cm.
• The young seedling of clematis is very tender. Therefore, immediately after planting, it must be protected from direct sun, watered abundantly (to remove excess moisture, you can make a circular hole) and provide support, without which the sprout can simply die, for example, from strong wind. Therefore, while the young clematis will gain strength, it is regularly (about 1 time in 3 days) tied to a support.

• The minimum height of such a support should not be less than 1.5 m. It is also important to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue, because a sufficient amount of time will pass before the support hides under the branches of adult growth. Therefore, the structure must harmoniously fit into the garden from the very beginning.

Pruning clematis

• It is very important - do not forget to cut the clematis shoots immediately after planting the sprout. This should be done in a radical way, leaving literally 2-3 kidneys from the bottom. Repeat the process after a couple of weeks.
• In the autumn of the first year of clematis life, it is cut in such a way that the height of the shoot is no more than 30 cm. It is thanks to the correct pruning that clematis develops a full-fledged root system, and this is a guarantee that in one and a half to two years the plant will delight with beautiful flowering.

• Of course, you can do without unnecessary difficulties, leaving the plant to develop as it wants. But in this case, clematis is unlikely to become a decoration of the garden; rather, it will resemble a pretty, but very annoying weed that grows chaotically, completely unpredictably, and at the same time too fast.

All of the above applies to absolutely all types of these beautiful flowers. In other words, planting and initial pruning are the same for all clematis. But in further care behind them differs in many ways, and first of all in the style of pruning, which clematis needs like no other plants. And that is why you need to know the types, subtleties and rules for this procedure.

Types of pruning clematis

It is because of the need to constantly restrain the growth of clematis that these flowers are considered one of the most fastidious inhabitants of the garden. It is on their correct pruning that not only beginners often “fall asleep”, but enough experienced gardeners. After all, even with a certain amount of knowledge, to one degree or another, you have to use the trial and error method.

Yes, there is a lot of trouble with pruning clematis. But, on the other hand, if we decompose them into a correct algorithm, then, after some time, this question will not seem like such an acute problem.

The first thing to consider is that pruning itself can be weak and strong, while being divided into several types:

• winter or seasonal (as the name implies, it helps the plant survive the cold);
• formative (for proper development and good growth);
• sanitary (when during the summer it becomes necessary to remove diseased and old shoots)

It is not necessary, without unnecessary need, to involve some additional options, in addition to those that are needed by a certain type of clematis. Better for the plant this will not happen, although it can be very difficult to cause irreparable harm to it by improper pruning.

Clematis groups by pruning

Due to the importance of pruning clematis, it is customary to divide their species into groups depending on it, as well as on which shoots they bloom - last year's or current ones, and in what period flowering occurs.

Clematis is usually divided into three large groups:

• first (or group A) - plants that bloom in early spring on old shoots. These include such varieties as Armandi, Alpina, Montana, Macropetal, Florida (flowery), Patens (spreading). In the same group are fine-grained varieties of clematis, which are famous for being the most unpretentious;
• second (group B)- those that bloom in spring and summer. At the same time, spring flowering occurs on last year's shoots, and in July-August - on current ones. These can be the following varieties: Lanuginosa, Florida, Patens and woolly clematis;
• third (group C)- these clematis bloom only on the shoots of the current year in the period July-September. They are the most common in our strip and are popular with beginner gardeners. This includes: multi-leaved, oriental, hybrid clematis, variety Zhakman, Texensis, Tangutika, Vititsela.

Pruning clematis video

Determination of the clematis group

• First, of course, you need to decide which group clematis belongs to. If the landing is only planned, then it is much easier to solve this issue, because. on the packaging, as a rule, it is indicated to which group this or that variety belongs.
• The group of clematis already present in the garden is most often determined by the period of their flowering (this was discussed above).
• It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular group, not only for the sake of implementing correct pruning, but also so that the plants look harmoniously in the garden next to other flowers and shrubs.

Pruning clematis in groups

• It is believed that first group of clematis does not require formation at all. Although this is not entirely true. They do not require heavy pruning for the winter. It is enough just to remove the shoots that have not ripened over the summer, and cut the rest to a height of 1-1.5 meters and cover. But during the summer, the plants of the first group will come in handy for forming pruning, because. they grow rapidly.

Clematis cropping photo

• Second group requires a weak pruning, which is carried out as follows. The first year - at the level of 30 cm, which will contribute to growth and branching, and starting from the 2nd year - according to a certain pattern:
  • the first pruning of the season should be carried out after flowering (approximately in June), cutting off the shoots along with the seedlings. As a result, the second flowering should be no less beautiful and lush. If this is not done, then clematis, which has given all its strength in the spring, by autumn, on new shoots, may not bloom at all;
  • after the end of the second flowering, pruning is carried out more radically, leaving no more than 1 m from the ground (and in some cases 50 cm);
  • and of course, for the winter, the plant must be carefully covered.

• An important point in caring for group 2 clematis can be called the fact that once every five years they need to be heavily pruned for the winter. Yes, as a result, you should not expect abundant summer flowering, but then the bush will please the next years without any problems. If this is not done, then its base will begin to become bare, and the branching will noticeably decrease.
• Clematis of the third group, as already mentioned, can be called the most popular among their fellows, because. they grow very fast and have bright and large flowers. Although they require strong pruning, this process is much less troublesome than that of group 2 clematis. Pruning is carried out once a year in autumn to a height of approximately 30 cm (an interval of 20 to 50 cm is acceptable), the main thing is to leave 2-3 pairs of buds and carefully wrap the bushes.

The duration of flowering of any clematis in the summer can be adjusted with light pruning. Simply put, if you shorten the strongest shoots, then the flowers will appear on them later, which means that the flowering period will last.

Clematis care in summer

• Do not think that clematis are considered such fussy just because they need to be cut often. They also require attention in terms of watering, because. do not tolerate drought well. Even under normal weather conditions in summer, 2-3 buckets of water 1-2 times a week for an average bush is the norm.
• In addition, in order for the moisture near the plant to spread correctly, the ground around it must be mulched, best of all with rotten sawdust, peat or humus.

• They love clematis and various top dressings. The easiest way is to use wood ash, about one glass per bush. Mullein is also great (mix manure with water in a ratio of 1:10). If you set out to feed the plant with mineral fertilizer, then here you must observe the following proportion: for 2 m2 of soil, take a solution of 30 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.
• It is necessary to process clematis with any fertilizer in the summer quite often - 1 time in 7-10 days.
• In the spring, freeing it from shelter after frost, it should be fed with nitrogen fertilizer, and on acidic soil with lime milk.

Preparing clematis for winter

How a clematis survives the cold is just as important as how it handles pruning. After all, this plant is a southern guest in our area, although it has already adapted enough to it.

• So, after the final autumn pruning, any variety of clematis requires shelter, whether it be a 15-centimeter sprout or a meter-long vine. For shelter, they use almost everything that is possible: spruce paws, dry leaves, sawdust, peat ( required condition- it should weather), manure (rotted), light boards.
• The main thing is not to overdo it in an effort to protect clematis from the cold and not wrap it too tightly. In this case, the lack of ventilation can lead to a disastrous result.
• It is necessary to pour a layer of earth on all layers of improvised insulation, and when snow falls, add it on top.
• If everything is done correctly, clematis will perfectly withstand any natural disasters.

Clematis in the garden

• Guided by all of the above, in a few years (in the first year it is better to pick off single flowers), you can grow not just a beautiful bush, but a real decorative garden decoration with dozens of shoots and hundreds the most beautiful flowers bright colors, some of which can reach a diameter of 20 cm.

• Curly varieties of clematis, clinging to supports, can rise several meters in height. Such types are indispensable helpers in decorating arbors, walls and any vertical structures.
• Bushes, whose height does not exceed 1 meter, also play a certain role. And she is often the leader. Many agree that clematis in the garden sometimes even outshine the queen of flowers, the rose, with their beauty.

This representative of the ranunculus family is a plant, in general, unpretentious, therefore it develops well even in our harsh climate and constantly pleases the owners, regardless of their region of residence, with beautiful flowers. The main difficulty in caring for clematis is that it is classified into many species and varieties (herbaceous, semi-shrub, etc.), and not every gardener knows what exactly grows on his site.

But depending on this, the method of carrying out one or another agrotechnical event is chosen. This is also true for work such as sheltering clematis for the winter.

If the planting of a flower in the ground was done correctly, then the process of warming it on the eve of winter is somewhat simplified. A layer of soil mixture prepared by a gardener is in itself a pretty good protection for the root of clematis from low temperatures, and the presence free space allows you to choose any of the shelter options. For those planning to organize It describes in detail all the nuances of this process. In addition, there is a list necessary work to prepare clematis for shelter.

Hybrid varieties require special attention. They are quite sensitive to low temperatures. Therefore, they need better insulation for the winter.

To choose best way preparing clematis for winter, you should understand the specifics of pruning the plant. As already noted, the classification of this flowering vine is rather complicated, but many parameters are more related to the size of the buds, their number, the length of the shoots, and so on. Although general rules care for plants of the same group are almost the same. The same applies to the process of shelter for the winter. In this regard, the categorization of clematis according to the characteristics of flowering is much more interesting. It depends on this how they should be cut. Accordingly, and then in the winter to cover.

There are 2 main options for the appearance of clematis buds. Depending on this, the plant is pruned.

On the branches of young (current year)

Such varieties of clematis are cut so that 2 to 3 buds remain on each stem. That is, short enough. In fact, only a small bush will have to be covered for the winter, the trunks of which rise about 25 ± 5 cm above the ground.

On last year's branches

The specifics of pruning these varieties of clematis are somewhat different. In fact, its main purpose is to thin out the plant. One-year-old twigs should never be touched, since it is on them that flowers will appear next spring. An exception is made only for those shoots that develop incorrectly (for example, sideways), thereby interfering with the rest.

In some varieties of clematis, buds form on some branches and on others. How to cut them correctly is decided on the spot, taking into account the specifics of the organization vertical gardening plot with the help of this bush, as well as whether any changes are planned in the design of the territory for the next year.

Features of clematis shelter for the winter

The specifics of trimming have already been said. What else needs to be done, and regardless of the local climate and variety of clematis.

Treat the soil in the trunk circle

Even taking into account the fact that when planting clematis, a specially prepared soil mixture was loaded into the hole, this is necessary at least for the purpose of prevention. It is impossible not to take into account daily temperature fluctuations, short-term thaws - the weather has been throwing us a lot of surprises lately. Consequently, a greenhouse effect can occur under the shelter, which initiates the appearance of rot and fungus. The owners of suburban areas, all the more, should not neglect this event, since no one will constantly go to the dacha just to depressurize the "dome" of the clematis shelter and organize natural ventilation.

Therefore, before insulating the plant, it is necessary to treat the soil with any preparation from the group of fungicides (antifungal agents) - Fundazol, copper sulfate, Fitosporin-M, Strobi and the like. The choice is big enough. Depending on the composition, a solution is prepared at the rate of 5 to 20 g per bucket.

Soil disinfection

In order to minimize the risk of bacterial growth on the surface, it is recommended to sprinkle the ground and parts of the clematis bush with wood ash. It will also bring to the soil a number of nutrients necessary for the plant.

Preliminary hilling

In clematis, the root system and the lower (aerial) part are especially sensitive to low temperatures (buds are left on it when completely pruned). Therefore, even before the onset of frost, it is necessary to cover it to a height of up to 15 cm. Usually, experienced gardeners do not use soil or fertilizer alone. It is advisable to produce such a shelter with their mixture - soil + organic matter. As the latter, humus, peat, dry manure or compost is taken.

Direct cover of clematis

There are quite a few recommendations on the timing of this event. Basically, the authors focus on street temperature. As soon as the thermometer drops 5 divisions below zero, you should proceed. This does not take into account such an important factor as the painful reaction of clematis to waterlogging of the soil.

How to proceed? Check out the weather forecast. If a thaw is expected after the first snow, then clematis should be covered ahead of time. Otherwise, melted snowflakes will saturate the ground, and nothing good can be expected from this. After installing the insulating frame, a greenhouse effect will occur, and the likelihood of damage to the root system of the plant by rot will increase dramatically.

Conclusion - the gardener must determine the timing of the shelter of clematis independently, since all helpful tips on this topic are only advisory in nature and do not take into account local specifics.

Plant insulation technologies for the winter

Hilling

Partially about such a shelter has already been said. The resulting mound of earth is covered from above with some materials, usually natural. And on this point there are various tips, so something should be clarified.

With any method of sheltering plants (including clematis), the main role in terms of insulation is given to snow. It is the most effective natural "blanket". Therefore, it is necessary to take care that it is not blown away by the very first gusts of wind across the territory. So, if the area where clematis is planted is well blown, then it is useful to put up some kind of temporary fence.

What to hide?

Recommendations to use plant debris from the site for these purposes (leaves, tops, weeds), sawdust does not deserve attention. Yes, they can insulate the ground. But there are two disadvantages of such covering materials, and you should not forget about them. Firstly, they absorb moisture well, which is then absorbed into the soil. Secondly, it is in the vegetation that various pests like to settle down for the winter and lay eggs in them. It is unlikely that such neighbors will be useful for clematis.

It is much more expedient to cover the bottom of the plant with needles. Or bags with vegetation (but only polyethylene, not woven). For example, stuffed with the same sawdust or shavings.

Clematis shelter combined

If branches remain after pruning, then they also need to be warmed. Hilling is done for the bottom. As for the shoots, they should be bent to the ground and fixed with something. For example, staples with long "antennae". Or lay a board next to the clematis, into which several nails are driven. Branches are tied to their protruding tips.

From above, the shoots can be covered with spruce branches or old branches. The snow that falls on them will be securely held by such a shelter. As an option, make original mattresses from plastic bags and dry materials and lay them on clematis shoots.

air way

This method of insulation is suitable for almost all regions of the Russian Federation. In fact, this is a complete shelter of clematis, with isolation from the environment.

For individual bushes

To insulate the plant, it is enough to place a cardboard box (plastic or wooden box) over it, which is covered with polyethylene film on top. Instead of such a frame, you can use small arcs installed crosswise above the bush. Naturally, the edges of the canvas need to be fixed - throw the earth, press down with pipe scraps or bricks. But this method of shelter has a significant drawback - if the site is located outside the city, and no one lives on it, then due to thaws under such a “cap”, clematis can dry out during the winter. Therefore, you need to think about how to provide at least minimal ventilation before snow falls. For example, tuck the film slightly from one edge.

But for private houses - a good solution to the problem of warming clematis for the winter.

group hiding method

In principle, the same thing, only for the simultaneous shelter of several bushes. Plant branches are bent and laid in a horizontal position. After a row of arcs is installed from the strapping on top.

In order for the covering material to hold well and not damage the clematis shoots left for the winter, trellises are tied to the supports, along the arcs, on the sides, closer to the top. The third is in the center, to exclude the deformation of the “cap” under the weight of the snow crust.

With this shelter technology, it is much easier to organize clematis ventilation. It is enough just to open the end parts, and the air flow will blow out all the dampness from under the “cocoon”.

How to cover the arcs?

As a rule, soft heaters are used for the first layer. For example, only. For the second - a thick film of polyethylene. Even for regions with severe winters, this is quite enough.

It should be taken into account that the top cover can be blown away by the wind or at least displaced from the installation site. Therefore, it is recommended to complete the process of clematis insulation by installing another row of arcs that will securely fix the laid coating.

Reinforced insulation

This technique is implemented infrequently, but for areas of the North or areas that are well blown, despite the fact that there is little snow and low temperatures, this is the best option.

Everything is done as in the previous paragraph. The only difference is that the arcs of the second row do not press the film, but are installed above the mounted frame with a slight elevation. As a result, a air layer which is an excellent thermal insulator. If necessary, this gap can be filled with some kind of insulating material. It is easy to figure out, knowing the specifics of your climate. But you should not use heat insulators that absorb moisture well. Not the fact that the outer film will not be damaged during the winter. For example, a branch that has fallen from a tree.

• When installing frame structures it must be borne in mind that small rodents also like to settle down under them for the winter. Therefore, it is more than advisable to place various traps for them under the "cocoon". Otherwise, in the spring it may turn out that the aerial part of clematis and the shoots are gnawed by the same voles.
• If signs of damage to the plant are found during the inspection at the end of winter, you should not immediately put a “cross” on it. Clematis is afraid of dampness and excessive light, and he can survive all the other misfortunes quite easily. The defective area is to be removed (cutting out), and the wound is to be treated accordingly. As the practice of breeding this flower shows, even in the current season it gives young shoots, from which a new bush is formed over time.

There are a lot of options for sheltering clematis for the winter, and listing them all is unrealistic. Yes, and there is no need for it. If the meaning of the work is clear, then finding a suitable way to warm a flower, focusing on local specifics and improvised materials, will not be difficult.

Happy wintering to your clematis!

Good day to all!

clematis bloom

Clematis or clematis in other words are very popular flowers and are loved by many. The mood immediately rises when you see a wall or a pergola entwined with bright star-flowers.

No wonder Professor Bach included clematis extract in his famous anti-depression formula, which also includes balsam, sunflower and cherry plum.

Clematis infusion in Bach drops increases vitality and is useful for drowsy people who have no interest in the present.

But back to the shelter of these flowers for the winter. Such is the fate of the grower - it seems recently, tulips, dahlias, and it is already necessary to cover the plantings of roses, clematis, chrysanthemums, hydrangeas, etc.

My advice applies to those groups of clematis that bloom on the shoots of the current year. Usually these are the most popular varieties.

I prepare flowers for wintering in early November. Our winters have been unpredictable lately. Either the thaw lasts half the winter, then the frosts will strike without snow. Therefore, it is necessary to cover, and at the same time not to overdo it, so that the flowers do not fade.

While the foliage is green, I am in no hurry with pruning and shelter, so that the plants do not steam, besides, even in such late dates clematis may have flowers here and there.

The first October frosts are not terrible for this vine. After them, the leaves dry up, but the plant does not die, but simply loses its decorative effect. This is how a wall entwined with clematis after frost looks like.

Clematis before pruning for the winter.

As you can see, the leaves have already dried up, which means it's time to prepare the vine for winter.

Clematis prefer a sunny or slightly shaded place, closed from cold northern winds and without stagnant water. If your flowers grow in such a place, then for wintering it will be enough to cut them off and cover them slightly.

The biggest danger is the stagnation of water near the roots in winter during thaws. This is exactly what almost all flowers do not like.

If the site does not have a slight slope, then plant flowers on elevations such as beds so that water does not flood the basal neck.

It is usually advised to cut clematis shortly, at a height of about 20 centimeters, having previously been treated for diseases. But I don’t pickle before shelter, my flowers are healthy. But if there were anxiety symptoms- treat the stems with fundozol or Bordeaux liquid.

I cut the stems at a height of about 0.8-1 meter from the ground. I remove from the trellis or support first the upper trimmed part and put it aside. Then I carefully remove the lower part of the stems from the support and lay them on the ground, I can lightly sprinkle them with earth, and I put the top cut off part on top.

If during work part of the stems breaks a little - it's not scary. The outer bark breaks, the inner part remains intact, such stems may well bud in spring.

Clematis can be covered with dry foliage or a cut part of a vine

This is how the planting of clematis looks like after being removed from the trellis. Additionally, later upstairs, I throw spruce branches or foliage from fruit trees, you can throw lutrasil or spunbond.

Why do I cut not at the very ground, but above? The fact is that clematis shoots both from the base of the bush and from the remaining buds on the remaining stems. And if the stems are preserved, the plant gains strength faster, and therefore, blooms a little earlier and blooms more magnificently.

In addition, the remaining stems can be sprinkled with soil immediately after pruning or early spring, or laid in small grooves near the vine. Then from the internodes sprinkled with soil, not only new stems will go, but roots will also form, and in this way the bush can be propagated or increased in size.

This is the most fast way breeding clematis. This is how I “stretched” the clematis along the wall of the bath, and in summer the planting looks like a solid flowering wall.

And here is a photo of a young clematis bush, which I want to propagate. It has already been cut, but not yet removed from the support.

Preparing clematis for winter in November

When the bushes are mature, well rooted, and even grow in good location, there are no special problems with wintering. But young first-year bushes should be covered more carefully.

Recently, I have been growing clematis in pots for the first year, especially if it is a purchased kvely sprout. Over the summer, the vine will get a little stronger. And then I look at the circumstances.

If the plant has grown well, it has become strong, I cut the liana, leaving about half a meter, I turn it into a ring on the ground in a pot. Then I wrap the pot in a plastic bag, leaving a little open space on top for air access and dig it in the garden. From above, I additionally throw some kind of vegetable tops.

If the liana is very weak, it develops slowly, for the winter I put the pot on the window in the annex, where the temperature is low. I water lightly in winter. There is a flower on the window and waiting for spring. Can be placed in the basement.

What is not clear - ask, I will answer with pleasure.

Beautiful flowers for you!

The article turned out to be not very long, there is time to assemble a puzzle with a beautiful clematis.

How to cut and cover clematis for the winter?

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Over the past decade, clematis have gained wide popularity and began to spread massively throughout the vast territory of Russia. Yes, this is correct, for vertical gardening it is difficult to find a plant that will compete with the “King of the vines”. But since most clematis seedlings are imported from abroad, the assortment is not particularly controlled by anyone, a reasonable question arises: are all clematis varieties adapted to harsh winter conditions middle lane Russia and how should they be prepared for the winter?

Clematis preparing for winter:
Over the past decade, clematis have gained wide popularity and began to spread massively throughout the vast territory of Russia. Yes, this is correct, for vertical gardening it is difficult to find a plant that will compete with the “King of the vines”.

But since most clematis seedlings are imported from abroad, the assortment is not particularly controlled by anyone, a reasonable question arises: are all clematis varieties adapted to the harsh winter conditions of central Russia and how should they be prepared for winter?

Let's figure it out.

According to the nature of flowering, clematis are divided into three groups:

1. Blooming on annual shoots (Vititsella, Zhakmana, Integrifolia);
2. Flowering on last year's shoots (Patens, Florida, partly Lanuginose;
3. Blooming on last year's shoots and shoots of the current year (Zhakman-Lanuginoza).


What do you think, which groups are most suitable for the middle and northern strip?

Well, of course, you will immediately guess that the 1st group is the most adapted, then comes the 3rd and only then the second.

Let's go in order.

For the flowering of varieties of the first group, it does not matter whether last year's shoots remain in winter or not, they are still cut to the level of the soil. This group blooms on the shoots of the current year.

Third group. Even if last year's shoots die in winter, flowering will still be on annual shoots.

Second group. Here everything is much more complicated. With the death of last year's shoots, there will be no flowering, therefore this group requires the most thorough and correct shelter of shoots for the winter. Therefore, the cultivation of varieties of this group should be approached with caution, especially for novice clematis lovers, although it must be admitted that experienced amateur gardeners grow such clematis quite successfully.

But this article will focus on preparing plants for winter, and which groups and varieties to grow the gardener himself chooses, voting for one or another species or variety with his wallet.


Clematis, with proper shelter, can tolerate significant frosts (up to -30 - 40 and even up to -50º C). It is necessary to cover them for the winter in the same regions where roses cover. It should be borne in mind that for clematis it is important not only to have the right shelter for the winter, but also to open in time in the spring. With early opening, last year's shoots can be damaged by spring frosts, with belated opening, they can be propped up.

It should be remembered that in areas with mild and snowy winters, most varieties of clematis require only light shelter (it is enough to spud with dry earth or cover with spruce branches). In most areas of the middle lane, clematis is covered after the onset of persistent frosts (usually in late October-early November), in dry weather.

Only properly planted clematis seedlings can winter normally in the conditions of central Russia and more northern regions (a deepening of the root collar by 5-7 cm is required). Highly planted seedlings are usually short-lived.

Clematis that bloom on the shoots of the current year for the winter are cut very short, leaving no more than 2-4 pairs of buds on the shoots. Then the bush is covered with a box, a bucket without a bottom, from above, in order to avoid getting wet, they cover it with a piece of roofing felt, roofing felt, plastic film, etc., and from above all this is covered with dry earth, peat, sawdust, etc., with a layer of 20-25 cm Such a shelter allows clematis to endure frosts down to -30-40º C.


Clematis blooming on last year's shoots are covered more carefully. The shoots are carefully removed from the supports, weak shoots are cut out, the rest are shortened to a length of about 1.5 m (depending on the variety and size of the bush), carefully folded into a ring, tied up and laid on a spruce or pine spruce branch previously laid on the soil. From above they are also covered with spruce branches, covered with waterproof material (roofing, roofing material) and this entire structure is covered with a layer of dry sawdust, peat, earth, etc. on top. In the northern regions, you can still cover it with a layer of waterproof material.

The author of this article covers this group of clematis in his own way. Clematis shoots, rolled up in a ring, are placed on a layer (3-5 cm) of crushed foam (packaging from radio and video equipment), a box on top, it can be from the same foam, but it can also be wooden. The box is filled with the same foam plastic(10-12 cm) and from above everything is covered with waterproof material (roofing, roofing material, thick film). All! Bushes hibernate like in Christ's bosom. There have never been cases of aging, freezing. Shelter is carried out only in dry weather!

It should be especially noted that for most clematis, low winter temperatures are less dangerous than waterlogging of the soil and covering material, which sometimes leads to wetting and damping of the root system and, ultimately, to the death of the entire plant.

In regions with frequent winter thaws, it is not recommended to cover clematis heavily, as this can lead to dampening. With the onset of warm spring days, small holes are made in shelters for ventilation. When the threat of significant returns has passed spring frosts, you should GRADUALLY release the bushes from shelter, since untimely release from shelter, with an increase in temperature, can lead to the death of plants.


When plants are freed from winter shelter, the top layer is first removed, and then gradually everything else. Weak frosts do not pose a threat to clematis.

Clematis are completely freed from shelter when stable warm weather is established, preferably before shoot growth begins. If it happens that the clematis bush has died, it should not be immediately uprooted. Many cases are known when, after 1-2 years, new shoots from the roots appear.

With proper agricultural practices, most varieties of clematis can grow in one place for 10-15 years or more. Clematis are very responsive to the correct, timely good care behind them, and then they will annually delight you with abundant and long flowering for many years.

It should be noted that the timing of the work on winter shelter clematis should be slightly modified, depending on the region where clematis is grown.

These are incredible beautiful flowers they came to Russia from Europe and, initially, were grown only in greenhouses, because they were not prepared for such a harsh climate. Later, breeders corrected this shortcoming and brought out a number of varieties with good frost resistance, but this did not take away certain care requirements from them.

Therefore, every gardener in the middle lane (and even in the southern zones), when purchasing clematis, thinks about how to properly prepare a flower for winter so that the perennial does not become an annual plant.

It's curly flower plant, is woody. Young stems are very thin, easily deformed, but as they “grow up” they become stiffer, even rough to the touch. However, this is not characteristic of all varieties of clematis - there are also herbaceous varieties. In addition, like most perennials of this type, it can also be an evergreen plant, i.e. not shedding foliage even in the cold.

• Clematis attracts gardeners mainly from an aesthetic point of view: its shoots easily braid any support, therefore they are perfect for decorating walls, pipes, nets, arches, etc. However, it is also suitable for cutting into bouquets.

The flowers have a very pleasant aroma, in which notes of almond and primrose can be distinguished, as well as slight hints of jasmine. They also attract with their bright colors: purple, scarlet, pink, purple, blue - this is not the whole spectrum that clematis can offer. It is noteworthy that flowers of both sexes can be found on one shoot, while they produce only pollen - without nectar.

Clematis enters the growth phase in spring, when the snow melts and the air warms up to 5 degrees above zero, so the exact date varies depending on the region. Flowers on last year's shoots take shape and develop in May, and on new ones - not earlier than mid-August. The duration of flowering does not exceed 20 days. The exception is bush varieties that delight the eye from June to August: almost all summer.

• Bush clematis is grown mainly in flower beds, as well as in alleys, although in height it can compete with the rest of the "relatives", since it stretches up to 1 m. But in general, this parameter ranges between 8 cm and 12 m, so even bush clematis can be taken for wall decoration, but at the same time it often acts as an element of the composition.

Most bush varieties have a blue-violet color, and the flowers are shaped like small bells. The exception is hybrids, in which breeders have achieved a bell length of 25 cm. Predominantly 10 of these flowers growing singly were collected on each shoot. The plant itself can be strewn with them very densely - about 150-200 pieces, depending on growing conditions.

In Russia, the following varieties of clematis are mainly planted:

• Straight. Characterized not by the most long stems(about 1.5 m) and roots going half a meter deep. The flowering of this species is short, lasts only 2 weeks, and begins closer to the end-mid-May. Summer pruning may encourage re-blooming in August. Under natural habitat conditions, it prefers humid areas, it survives the winter of the middle zone well, with a sufficient amount of snow and not too severe frosts, it does not need shelter.
• Hogweed. A semi-shrub plant of late flowering - at the end of summer, has short shoots (up to 90 cm), and is also characterized by a very slow opening of the petals. Relatively resistant to cold, the ground part loses leaves closer to October.
• Shrub. It survives the winter well, without even losing its shoots, if they are well covered. Shoots in length do not exceed 0.8 m, flowering begins in August. The classic range for its colors is purple and yellow.

It should be noted that gardeners often classify clematis varieties according to the size of flowers, which is convenient when choosing suitable plant for certain tasks. For example, small-flowered ones can bloom all summer, while large-flowered ones hardly last longer than 2 weeks.

If we talk about varieties that were grown for the middle lane, then for the most part they are practically unpretentious, although they make some demands. Clematis - good plant even for an inexperienced gardener, but in need of attention. A few basic points that will help you keep planted clematis until they reach the age of 25:

• The brightness of blooming flowers directly depends on the amount of sun that clematis can absorb, so professionals advise planting this plant in a well-lit area.
• Soil moisture should be average, since any, even the most minimal, dryness will be detrimental to the plant. However, clematis cannot be constantly flooded, since the roots will rot: 4 buckets under an adult bush and 2 under a young one are the maximum values. If necessary (proximity to groundwater), drain the soil.
• Regardless of the season (some gardeners do this in spring and autumn), the soil needs to be loosened, but not too deep. Good air exchange is an important condition for the healthy state of clematis.
• If you do not want the leaves and flowers to fly around from gusts of wind, do not plant this plant on open area and do not place under a draft.
• Do not forget about the support - almost all varieties need it, excluding some intended for flower beds. Young plants will require wire fixing in the first year. If the variety you have chosen blooms on last year's shoots, the support must be permanent - i.e. do not change it for next year.
• The most important point to pay attention to is the type of root system: it is fibrous, so constant changes of residence are unacceptable for it. If you intend to achieve perennial flowering clematis, you will have to find a way to let it overwinter in the area where it sits, without digging it up and moving it to the basement, pantry, etc.

Most gardeners are interested in how clematis is cared for in the fall, since this is the beginning of preparation for wintering.

• A comprehensive mineral fertilizer, or another option for top dressing for flowers, but always - without nitrogen.
• Additionally, humus mixed with ash is poured under the roots.
• The intensity of watering is reduced, especially if the autumn is cold, so as not to chill the roots.
• At the end of flowering, pruning is carried out according to the type of plant.

At the same time, the preparation of shelter begins for those varieties that need it, which will be discussed a little later.

This procedure in the care of clematis in the fall is considered one of the most important. Professionals advise doing it first before planting, then in July and before the onset of cold weather. In this case, the choice of method depends on which species a particular plant belongs to. Gardeners are guided by the following simple scheme:

• Clematis, which bloom on new shoots, often do not shed their petals in autumn, so their above-ground part is cut off completely. It should remain no more than 30 cm above the soil level, which is equal to a pair of buds.
• If clematis releases buds on the shoots of last year, by autumn it has already managed to completely complete the flowering period, or at this moment there is a second wave, which is not as active as the first. It is cut selectively: strong shoots should be left so that flowers form on them next year, but shortened to 1 m. After that, they should be very carefully pressed to the ground, since such clematis needs shelter.
• Low and winter-hardy princes as such almost do not require pruning, except for the preventive removal of weak, diseased and dead shoots. Their flowering occurs according to the principle of the 2nd category. They also do not need to be removed from the supports, because. they do not need shelter - gardeners have the easiest time with these clematis. However, they need to protect the roots, so hilling is mandatory.

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At the same time, one must also remember that after pruning, a bucket of humus is necessarily introduced under each clematis, which will help him find it nearby even in winter. nutrients. If pruning is done for clematis of the first year of life, regardless of the group to which they belong, the shoots are cut to the 2nd bud, i.e. leaving only 25-30 cm above the ground. Also, every 4 years, it is desirable to carry out the same complete pruning, also for representatives of all groups. The classic deadline for this procedure is November.

This plant really needs a good shelter (the exception is only a few varieties), but you can not use too dense material. the main problem faced by gardeners who decide to grow clematis and force it to overwinter on the site - the preservation of air exchange in the cocoon that envelops the plant. To do this, you can use the so-called. "air-dry" method, in which a wire frame is built that does not touch the shoots remaining above the ground. A film is thrown on it, or only. Less commonly, roofing material is taken, which is considered too dense for clematis.

If your plants are undersized, or have been cut to 2 buds, you can make it easier and put a large wooden box on them, which also needs to be protected with a covering material from moisture. Some gardeners under such a "house" lay something that repels mice. Remember to press down the edges of the covering material.

• Clematis mountain pink Rubens has special requirements for preparing for winter: it has very fragile flowers, therefore, without shelter, its buds die in the cold. Even in regions with a mild climate, it is desirable to provide this plant with additional heat.

It must be said that before the clematis is covered for the winter, the soil around it must be well mulched: with leaves, branches, cut shoots, peat. For each bush - 3 buckets (approximately). It is important that the soil is dry, otherwise its high humidity during cold weather will negatively affect the condition of the clematis roots. Very short shoots of good winter-hardy varieties you can even cover it with the same mulch without creating additional "buildings".