As a fiberglass casting from the matrix became a boat. Boats do it yourself. Drawings boats. How to make a boat boat with your own hands drawings

Fiberglass is the only material that allows you to create the form of any complexity. Independent design of the bottom makes it possible to equip it with rugs any configuration. You can achieve the maximum efficiency of the vessel's running qualities, placing the rugs in the most suitable places. In addition, the design of the homemade boat will be a reflection of the character of its owner.

There is a manufacturing method homemade boat From plywood and fiberglass, when plastic is used only for the outer coating of the boat. But this technology does not justify yourself. Lying under the plastic layer of plywood quickly picks moisture, which increases the weight of the vessel. There is a rapid destruction of plywood due to the effects of microorganisms and the stratification process, because by the strength of the plywood is significantly inferior to the plastic.

How to make a boat? Accurately observing all the rules, even the newcomer will be able to implement this task. Technological process Simple and budget. The vessel body is created due to the reinforcing filler impregnated with the polymer composition.

Materials and drawings

Raw materials used as a reinforcing filler in the manufacture of a frame:

• the base of the body, board - roving fiberglass TP-07, TP-03, TP-056;
• local strengthening of separately taken areas - structural fiberglass T-11, T-13.

Fiberglass can be different types of weaving, the size of the threads. Basically choose "oblique" or satin weaving. Threads should be twisted. Sold material in the form of sheets, rolls, ribbons.

Fiberglass is sold in a fatty fat. So that the fabric is better impregnated with the binder, the grinder should be removed using gasoline, white spirit or acetone. Degreased tissue dried around 2-4 hours in the air.

To glue the reinforcing material, resin will need. In the shipbuilding industry, three varieties of resin are used: epoxy, vinyl ether, polyester. The most important characteristics of the resin during the construction of a fiberglass boat from any type of fiber is adhesion and soilability.

A cheap option is the use of a polyester resin that allows you to create a one-piece element from fiberglass per surgery. You can apply the resin TM Ashland. To create decorative, with the protective properties of the coating of the body, it will take gelkout. The plywood is also required with a thickness of at least 1.2 cm, which has moisture resistance.

The manufacture of the boat is impossible without the prelimine drawing. Designing of future floating conditions can be carried out using the AutoCAD program. First, a 3D model is created, then the schemes of the spangling, grids. Ready drawings are taken on specialized sites, on the Internet. Now you can begin to make a fiberglass boat with your own hands.

The matrix

Directly manufacturing process The manufacture of a fiberglass boat begins with the construction of the matrix. First, the framework is made to which the splintmosts are attached. Next, they should be hampered by a twelve-millionth plywood, trying to achieve as a smooth surface as possible. The edges of the boat make more rigid, for sides are used by a double layer of plywood.

Now it is necessary for a long time and thoroughly align the boards using polyester putty. It is necessary to exclude all the errors so that the boat design is stable. You can work with special chapels templates.

At the stage of alignment of the matrix, it is possible to provide such an important part of the boat as a keel. It provides an even movement of a more funny or motorboat, excluding the spirits. A homemade keil made from wood is poured with polyester resin.

By markup, all the errors of the constructed matrix are detected. The sandpaper is aligned and cleaned the edges, giving the future shy symmetry. The finished form cleared of dirt is degreased, an anti-adhesive composition of 4 layers is applied to it. It is necessary as a separator that does not allow the adhesion of the resin to the surface of the form.

Helcouta coating

After drying, the wax layer is applied gelcoat, which is the outer surface of the boat. This is a responsible moment on which it depends appearance vessel. Gelcoat provides protection against scratches, ultraviolet, losses. It is necessary to apply it, seeking a uniform coating, avoiding bubbles and drills. Now you can start laying out the cuttings on a fully dried layer of gelkuty.

Manufacture of housing

Cutting the tissue is carried out by cutting the canvases corresponding to the length of the housing. The canvas for laying along the waterline and keel should not have the junctions. If there is an obstacle to the obstacle, the material in this place is able to edit, and then detach. You should leave the allowances when stripping along the edges for laying in Vnakroy. To sew pieces of fiberglass to obtain the required length, you can use glass threads, rolled out of the edge of the material, or impregnated with oil linen.

The fiberglass layer is evenly covered by a binder polymer resin. To do this, it is recommended to use a casting roller. Air bubbles should be avoided, since the emptiness remaining in some places weakens the design. The next layer of fiberglass is stacked on a similar scheme. You can apply up to five layers of fiberglass. To obtain a more beautiful upper layer, it is recommended to use a special "upper" fiberglass.

Power frame and floor

To enhance the housing, it is necessary to pave three wooden bars along the shape, which is then covered with two layers of fiberglass. Installation of the spangling produces every 30 cm, also applying fiberglass on them.

It is necessary to create a double hermetic bottom that makes the boat that is not optimized even in case of turning. The floor is trimmed with plywood sheets with moisture-resistant properties. The finished floor is covered with a pair of layers of reinforcing tissue, with a mandatory impregnation with a polymer resin. The composition is given to dry completely.

Finishing stage

It remains to remove the finished boat from the form, trim the allowance, stick the surface, mounted the roof and the beam protection. Additional elements can also be made: seats, merry fasteners, drawers. Using fiberglass, you can make any necessary accessories for the vessel. After that, proceed to painting.

A similar method is made with their own boats from fiberglass. Of course, the drawing and design of the boat is more complicated than boats, and efforts will need more. But the cost of homemade will cost half less than the same finished vessel.

Repairs

Repair a boat from fiberglass or a boat is required when typical damage occurs:

• decorative layer defects;
• cracks in the case;
• goes and semi-belly;
• the discrepancy of the corners;
• sinks.

Basic materials for repair: fiberglass, epoxy resins. Starting repairs, it is recommended to place a damaged place closer to the horizontal level. The surface must be clean, dry, low-fat. There may be a hair dryer, technical or household. Before the start of sealing defects, fiberglass must be deguted, rolling in a solvent, and dry well.

In case of emergency repair, it is not necessary to dry it over the stake, as the soot is formed. Before laying on damage to damage, the fiberglass is impregnated in a diluted compound (polyester or epoxy resin), after which it is pressed with pulling between two sticks. The place of repair must be cleaned with a large skirt to a glass tape layer, making it slightly terry.

Elimination of damage

Small injuries in the form of scratches are close to epoxy resin without filler or soil. The cross-type scratch is removed by a compound with a compound with a filler, after which the processed place remains to stall and paint.

Small cracks sufficiently smeared with epoxy resin. If the housing cracked, then the damage is removed on both sides of damage to fiberglass. After drying it is filled with epoxy resin. To do this, click on each side of the cracked, giving it to reveal, and scrub. After that, the edges are combined, fixed. From above, on both sides, we are imposed by a compound strip of fiberglass. After the frozen, the place of repair is grin, covered with a layer of resin, spooled and paint again.

The semi-bodie is characterized by a break with the remaining piece of plastic. If a break is small, then you need to correct the sticking piece. To do this, it is necessary to handle the compound all surfaces. With the help of the stop and the Cyanka, the piece is put in place, while on the one hand, the convexity is formed, and on the other - the dent. Fiberglass is stacked with impregnation, fixed by cargo. After the polymerization of the semi-bodie, the resin with filler sweeps. Further actions, grinding - laying the impregnated sheet, repeated twice. Then grinding and painting.

The platoon is closed with the help of foam punch, preferably on external inquodes. From thick fiberglass, several patches are made with tolerances from 3 to 5 mm, so that the thickness of the package corresponds to the thickness of the case. After installing Punson, patchs are pasted. The algorithm for further action is the same as in previous cases.

The discrepancy of the angles is eliminated similar to the sealing of cracks, but the fiberglass is taken in the form of a tape. Sink is the most unpleasant type of damage. Sometimes it is a defect of production. It can form between layers due to water from entering, which cuts the layers in winter time. For repair, you will need to open the sink, drill the hole before entering the cavity.

Then there is a wide section (up to 5 mm) at its largest size. The open cavity is dried with a hairdryer, filled with a compound with a syringe. The processed shell is clamped into the press. Then the usual putty algorithm, grinding and painting is performed.

Fiberglass is an excellent material for the manufacture of boats and boats available in application. Made with their own hands fiberglass boats are obtained durable and durable, easy to repair. It should be borne in mind that the components of the materials used in the work are not safe for health. It is necessary to work in rubber gloves, protective masks, glasses, in a well ventilated place.

Instruction

First decide on the construction technology. There are two main ways: in the first first, a set of housing is made, weathered with thin plywood. Then the finished body is covered with several layers of fiberglass. When using the second variant, a matrix is \u200b\u200bmade, in which the case is then soldered.

The first option is suitable for those who build in a single copy. The disadvantage of this method is that the finished body needs a rather laborious processing. The second option requires the cost of material and time on, but it allows you to get a housing with an ideal surface that need only in color. This method is advisable to use with a small-sector, as the matrix remains unharmed and ready to build another boat.

Choosing the first way, create, according to the drawings, a set of the body of the future boat. If this is your first independent building, select a set of finished drawings - it will save you from many problems. Build a boat in own drawings is only after the acquisition of a certain experience.

When building a boat, use only stainless fasteners - brass or bronze screws and nails. Used fiberglass must be squeezed by a soldering lamp (but do not stick!) To a weak brown melting. Without such processing, fiberglass will be badly soaked with polyester or epoxy resins And the case will be very fragile.

Choosing a resin, remember that it is easier to work with polyester resins than with epoxy, however, the strength of polyester resins is less. For the latch of the first layers of the trim, you will need glass-boosal - that is, fiberglass of coarse weaving. For the external layers of the case, use fiberglass satin weaving. The highest light is on the very top of a rare weaving fabric, well impregnated with resin.

Ready Skill Case and Polish. This work should be started before the resin finally hardens. Be sure to work in the respirator, use electrical tools - handle the large body manually is very hard.

When choosing the second option, first make the matrix. To do this, you will need to create a set, reverse case of the future boat. Use polyester resins, the thickness of the matrix walls does not follow less than 8 millimeters. The matrix must have ribbed ribs so that it does not "beloved." Remember that the quality of the future boat body depends on the quality of the matrix surface.

Start the casing in the matrix from applying a separating layer - without it, the case is tightly stick to the matrix. Use Vaksu for floors, vaseline, wax as a separation layer. After its application, the molding of the boat hull begins. The first decorative (painted) layer is applied, its thickness is 0.4-0.6 mm. Then the layers of fiberglass, fiberglass and glass-boosters are sequentially stacked. All layers are thoroughly rolled with roller to the surface of the matrix.

After generating the case, you must install (incur) an internal set. Do it right in the matrix, such a way will avoid deformations. Pulk make in a separate matrix and connect with the housing or shoot out the place. Properly made in the matrix, the housing does not need additional finish and staining.

Learn how to build a boat with your own hands. If you like a leisure and reliable boats () and love spend a lot of time on the water, I suggest you to build a displacement tourist crab boat. If you can not build this boat with your own hands, contact any Master to the boatman. In the construction of the boat is not complicated and does not require scarce materials so that the wizard will not be difficult to collect this boat from the material that he has at hand. It is important to withstand the buildings of the body, as they are close to the optimal speeds of 8-12 km / h.

Therefore, it is not worth putting the engines more powerful 20 hp. Otherwise, the boat will go into a very unfavorable mode from the point of view of fuel consumption. Lower engine power limit 3-4.5 hp. After it, the boat has bad handling and a strong loss of speed during a strong oncoming wind. Therefore, you need a good fit of the rowing screw, which is obtained at a low rotation frequency of 1000 to 1500 revolutions per minute, and a large diameter of the screw. The boat is designed with a low side and not large in terms of cutting. To reduce the wave resistance of the housing was selected relatively narrow (L / B \u003d 3.3) the coefficient of longitudinal completeness φ \u003d 6.65. The steering wheelhouse has a small height, approximately 1.6 m and is located in the stern of the boat, it is open from the stern and the control post is in it. And if the driver opens the hatch located above its place, it will be able to manage standing on the banquette.

It is not recommended to increase the height of the cutting, this will lead to the loss of speed and bad manageability of the boat. In a rattling in a rather free place, a galley with gas tagan is also located. There is also a dishwashing shell. The galley closes with a lid becomes the seat for two people. The length of the cockpit with the steering wheelhouse is about 2 meters, so 6 people can be comfortably comfortable. But if you decide to go on a long goal, I advise you to take on board no more than 4 people. Since the boats in the cabin are not a lot of place, then you will have to sleep in the cockpit on inflatable mattresses. In the cabin there is a wardrobe, a closet bar, a bed with small runes and a shelf in the beam. In drawing general view The engine UD2-M1 is indicated with a capacity of 8 hp. With air-cooled, from spam with reversal - gearbox from the SM-557L engine. These engines are desirable to install open, or provide air flow if the hood is installed.

A stream of hot air can be directed to the cabin and cabin with the help of the screen, it will be quite effective heating In crude weather. Air cooling engines are much easier to maintain, and more economical. With the UD2-M1 engine and gearbox 1: 1.64, this boat develops a speed of 12 km / h and consumes fuel only 0.28 l / km. Case boats can be built different ways. In the drawing you can see the laminated swarthings, they are sealed in templates from the rails. The case of the case can be guided directly on these splits. Which are installed on the stapel as Pekala. You can apply hinged splintings. Parts of these spangouts are cut from the boards and combine overlays between themselves the same thickness.

If the spangles are from oak or ash, make the blanks with a thickness of 22 - 24 mm, if the thickness of 28-30 mm is then from pine. Details when marking plays So that the wood has a minimal fiber passage. Otherwise, the splits can crack when landing or in other emergency situations. It is better to make mounted spangles in three layers, replace the lining by gluing with both sides of the strip of the waterproof plywood plywood with a thickness of 4-5 mm. Distance between the splintmost 600 mm.

How to build a boat with your own hands - options for body skin.

When covering the housing, the edge on the edge of the board is connected, saming along the edges, it gives the boat body with good stiffness without additional spangling. To do this, you need spruce or pine boards with a thickness of 20 mm and width in the middle part of the length of the boat housing 120 - 150 mm. To Kil, the splints and the cylinder cylindes are fastened with screws 5x45, and the edges of the sheath must be glued with nails - rivets preferably with copper diameter 3.5 - 4 mm. Pre-under the nails drill holes of a smaller diameter. Problem the inner ends of nails on the washers.

Corpus with a board upholstery. With this method of clamping the boat hull, the adjacent singing, among themselves no connection, only through the swarthhums. The thickness of the plating 20 mm and the shape of 600 mm housing with this option is quite durable, but maybe there will be flowed on the possession. You can apply an additional element of a triangular rail - a laste, which is fixed by frequent metal brackets in the lumbering grooves, which are separated from the outside. The best option is to put one curved vaccine between the edited on the drawing by the curtains. Or all the swords make bent. Then the shape will become 300 mm, the thickness of the skin can be 15 - 17 mm. Billets for bent swords can be chopped out of oak, ash rails with a cross section of 16x35 or spruce deck with a cross section 18x35. First, they need to break them out and then put in the body when all the sewing will be collected on temporary patterns. With bent splits, the weight of the boat will be less. Now briefly, how to make the most important individuals made the boat housings. For the manufacture of keel, you can use any of the ways shown in the figure.

Kiel consists of a bar set on a rib or actually a thickness of 40 mm thick and a thunder - which is attached to the top edge of its board, which is bent on the reservoir, or two sides. The choice depends on your capabilities, but note that when an option with the rails it is possible to flow on the poses between the rails and the keel, so that there is a dense fit and more fasteners and will not be extension to the waterproof glue. The belt is assembled from two parts for their manufacture. It is necessary to draw in advance to draw the equipment of the stem in the natural value of theoretical drawing, then translate the dimensions of all parts according to the design. On this markup, the details are pre-treated, then tightly customize to each other. The most difficult thing is to choose a spool - make a notch from the boards at the bottom of the sort.

This must be done on the Shelter. To mark the sandy frames, it is necessary to draw a planet drawing of the natural value then mark the inside the blast of the outdoor casing. Do it with a flexible rail or circula. Flora, lining and bim books Contact copper nails - rivets with a diameter of 4-5 mm, then put the washers and proof under the ends, and the galvanized steel bolts can be used. Each item must be attached at least three rivets. Top mothers of all the splits are associated with a temporary cross-staple bar - a bar at an altitude of 800 mm from Ol. Sew the trauma is better in the spool and collect on the plaza along with the strapping.

Corps collect when the keel is at the bottom, install on the stapel according to the theoretical drawing bookmark, the stentevere, tramer and keel with a rubber. Check the position of the sampling frames and attach to the rubber with steel squares - a short or two M6 bolts by skipping them vertically through the flora. Galves put in compounds of a private bar with a splint sets. Ends of idle bims are cut into the private bar. Believe bims when assembling sparkum frames per 1, 2, 3 spangles. Introduce the wheelhouse when you finish the installation of Karlegs 8, mount the bulkhead on the 5-fold and flooring of the deck that is going from the boards of 15 mm, do not forget to cross it later.

The "designer" in the nose of the cutting is the inclined Cominges, it can be collected from the boards 17 mm well or from plywood with a thickness of 8-12 mm. Also install a temporary frame in 4 pins, it will give bending onto the onboard coming. Bims cutting Also, as the bims of the case marked. And cut off the ends in the shelf ( dovetail). We cut the roof of the cutting plywood 6 mm thick or clapboard thickness of 12 m. Be sure to then cover the roof of the cutting of the sail (on the liquid putty) and secure it with the broths with sprats.

Theoretical drawing of the crab boat

Ordinate table Theoretical drawing of a displacement crab boat that you can assemble with your own hands, mm (over the outer trim)

General view of the tourist boat: 1 - Handling; 2 - Knecht feed mooring; 3-handed; 4-onboard distinguishing fire boats; 5- headlight boats; 6- Fire top; 7- casing for sliding hatch; 8-shallow; 9 - Leera Foot; 10- Biteng; 11 - Planck boiled; 12- luchek above the driver's seat; 13- boat engine; 14- Roundtuk Feed.

Boat layout 1 - Akhterpik; 2- engine boat; 3 - fuel tank; 4 - Cutting management; 5 - sliding hatch; 6- casing for hatch cap; 7 - Look; 8 - shelf; 9 - Forep: 10 - shelf; 11- bucket remote; 12 - firmware onboard rails, internal: 13 - bed - sofa; 14 - Bureau-cabinet; 15 - seat seat; 16 - fuel tank; 17 - seat lid -manduka; 18 - Folding chair: 19 Washing washware: 20 - Taganok gas; 21 - two folding door; 22- Wardrobe

Bookmark and cross sections on the splits. 1 - Requirement; 2-pin (laminated - 30 x 45: skeletal - 28 x 65); 3-Blood Stringer 28x50; 4 - Knitsa Δ \u003d 25; 5 - Cockpit Coming, plywood δ \u003d 8 or 10-12 mm board; 6 - Taster 8x25. oak; 7-rail 12 x 25; 8 - Carlers 25 x 40; 9-Flor, Δ \u003d 30. 10 - Burtin, 25 x 30; 11 - Prival Bar 28 x 50; 12 - Stroke R - 22; 13 - Cominges logging, plywood Δ \u003d 8 or a board thickness 10 - 12, 14-slave 22x50 15-shelf 20x32; 16-boiled, g- 12; 11-block steering wheel cutting, plywood δ \u003d 6; 18- BIM 22x32; 19-kallgs cutting 25 x 40; 20 - band 2x20. brass or light alloy; 21 - Plank 8x60. oak; 22 - bulkhead, plywood δ \u003d 6 or lining 12-15; 23 - Door Rack 20 x 40. Piol Supplement Bar. 28x35; 25 - Plank 12x80; 26 - Rake 30x30: 27 - bed flooring, 12 mm board or plywner δ \u003d 6; 28 - internal sewing cabins, rail 8 x 45; 29 - layout 8x80; 30-block cuts, plywood δ \u003d 6; 31 - BearS 22x 35; 32-floor deck, board 15-17 or plywood δ \u003d 8; 33 - Bims 25 x 60; 34 Wrame 30x30; 35 - Forest; 36 - screws M6 x 150; 37 - button; 38 - Clemencle 35 x 140; - 40x80; 40 - Feed Daidwood: Screw to the bars with a thickness of 140 mm: 41 - the rug of the steering wheel, steel δ \u003d 3-4; 42 - Deadwood lining, 140 x 140; 43 - Starlinnica, δ \u003d 40; 44 - Tranka strapping, 28 x 65; 45 - traum, δ \u003d 20-22.

Kea Assembly Options: A - Embodiment of a keel with a thunder made from the board; B - option of keel with side rails. 1 - Kiel boat; 2 - rubbish; 3 - M6 fastening bolt with a step of 200-250: 4 - rack of 40 x 30 sizes; 5 - screw 5 x 80 in step 120 step 120.