Wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof. Single wall greenhouse. Video "How to build a greenhouse with your own hands"

Greenhouses with shed roof building is profitable for many reasons. The cost of building materials is reduced. If the frame of the greenhouse is attached to the south side of the house or other building, the occupied area will be significantly reduced. In winter, less money is spent on heating, you do not need to go far while caring for plants. Part of the daylight is lost due to a blank wall, but this disadvantage can be eliminated by installing equipment for artificial lighting.

One side of such buildings is closely adjacent to the wall brick house, garage or shed. Brick is not as susceptible to damage due to moisture as wood. It dries faster and does not rot if the joints and the entire surface are treated with special hydrophobic agents Siloxil or Funcosil. These preparations are environmentally friendly, water-repellent and not harmful to animals and plants.

General form a shed greenhouse resembles a single-piece construction of a stand-alone greenhouse, but, as it were, cut in two along the length. The gardener himself selects the material for the construction of the extension:

• wooden frames from timber or boards:
• polyethylene pipes;
• metal corners or fittings;
• whole window frames with glazing and windows.

Covering materials are also diverse:

• glass;
• cellular polycarbonate;
• PVC film;
• a combination of all named hideouts.

The type of construction depends on the chosen material. The roof of wooden greenhouses made of timber and structures from old windows has the form of a right-angled triangle. Its highest part is adjacent to the blank wall of the fence. The presence of opening vents is convenient for airing the greenhouse.

Polycarbonate - relatively new modern material, with positive characteristics, from which gardeners build greenhouses. The roof of a shed greenhouse, as the name implies, is a slope, forming a right triangle in cross section. A shed greenhouse, if desired by the owner of the site, can also be built as a free-standing structure, but in this case it will lose most of the advantages over a standard building.

Benefits of installing a shed greenhouse

A shed polycarbonate greenhouse, although not intended for growing a large number of plants, has proven itself among gardeners and there are several reasons for this:

1. 1. Compactness - being an extension to a structure or a fence, it allows you to use the previously empty area of ​​​​the site;
2. 2. Small scale - such a greenhouse is perfect for growing seedlings, it is easier to create an optimal climate for plants in it than with a large size;
3. 3. Savings in construction and maintenance - a shed greenhouse adjacent to the building requires much less building materials, and also in the case of an extension to the house, there is no need to carry out lighting and heating through the entire area;
4. 4. Reliability - the wall of the structure protects the greenhouse from the winds. Polycarbonate diffuses light well;
5. 5. Heating - the main wall will warm the greenhouse.

ABOUTa pitched greenhouse for a beginner summer resident is the best option seedling growing areas. For convenience and maximum use of its area, you can equip the interior space with racks for boxes and pots with plants. If it is planned to grow a significant amount vegetable crops, flowers and so on, then it is worth giving preference to the construction of another type of structure - a separate greenhouse with a larger area.

Design planning - drawing creation, material comparison

Planning and drawing - necessary First stage any construction works.It is important to choose a well-lit place on the south or east side of the site and think in detail about the following elements of the future design:

1. 1. Foundation. The type of foundation depends on the purpose of the greenhouse and its future weight - it can be wood or concrete;
2. 2. Lower frame trim. wooden beams laid along the perimeter of the foundation;
3. 3. Vertical and intermediate corner posts - load-bearing structural elements;
4. 4. The upper trim of the frame - horizontal beams mounted on vertical posts - support for rafters;
5. 5. Rafters - load-bearing elements of the roof;
6. 6. Struts and braces - frame elements to strengthen the structure, are installed under the rafters and between vertical posts;
7. 7. Frame sheathing - for example, cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses;
8. 8. Doors and vents for ventilation.

1 and 2 - strapping, 3 - vertical racks, 4 - rafters, 5 and 6 - vents and a door.

The optimal size of a shed greenhouse is considered to be 3x6, while it should not be overlooked that the length and height of the structure depends on the length and height of the wall to which the greenhouse will adjoin, and cannot exceed these dimensions. The height for outer wall. The slope of the roof is important here: the more snow falls in a particular region in winter period, the greater should be the slope of the roof, which helps to avoid sagging of the sheathing material under the weight of precipitation.

The question of choosing a material for the frame also needs to be approached in advance and with responsibility.

What type of foundation to choose - tape or timber

The first criterion for choosing the type of foundation is that for light summer structures it is enough to create a base from a bar, but if a winter greenhouse is planned, then you will need a deep foundation that can protect the soil from freezing. A concrete base is more reliable and durable than a wooden one, which tends to rot over time, but is more expensive. The second point to think about is capital. It is poured only if you are sure of the correct location for the greenhouse and its use is planned for many years. You need to understand what to dismantle concrete foundation, if there is a desire to move the building, it will be very problematic and will require a significant expenditure of effort and money.

Whatever type of foundation is chosen as the basis, before starting work from the adjacent territory, it is necessary to remove all stones and debris, clean the interior of the planned greenhouse from weed grass. It will be more convenient to immediately create a place sheltered from possible precipitation for building materials.

Beam foundation

With the help of pegs and a stretched rope, a trench marking is applied for the future foundation. The trench is dug in accordance with the cross section of the beam, the walls are leveled, the bottom is compacted and covered with sand for 40% of the total volume. The cut timber is treated with an antiseptic to prevent mold, and connected with corners and self-tapping screws into a single box, which is laid in a trench and leveled horizontally by laying stones or planks of the desired thickness.

To create a foundation for a greenhouse, larch timber is best suited - it has a special resistance to moisture.

The foundation of the timber is very important to securely fix. You can drill holes in the wood for this and drive metal pins through them into the ground about half a meter long.

Strip foundation

According to the same principle, markings are applied to the surface of the earth and a trench is dug, the depth of which is 60 cm and a width of about 30 cm. The bottom is covered with sand for 30% of the volume of the trench and compacted. A formwork is created from the boards, its height above the ground should be 10-15 cm. After that, concrete is poured and leveled. Anchor bolt fasteners are inserted at a distance of a meter from each other so that they are subsequently located between the vertical racks of the frame. A fresh foundation is covered with a film and wetted with water for another 4 days. Then the concrete will have to gain strength, this will take a couple of weeks. After that, you can dismantle the formwork and cover the finished foundation with roofing material.

Construction and sheathing of the frame

The whole process of building a frame for a shed greenhouse made of wooden beam is divided into separate stages, starting from the creation of the lower trim and ending with the skin. First of all, you need to prepare four beams 10x10 cm along the length and width of the greenhouse and create holes around the perimeter of the beds for attaching the lower harness to the foundation. The holes are located between those places that are marked for rack mounts. To form the walls of the greenhouse, a beam of 5x10 cm is prepared. Holes for pins with a depth of 6 to 10 cm are created in the lower ends of the corner posts. Connections are fixed with corners with self-tapping screws. At this stage, horizontal crossbars are installed between the corner posts of the greenhouse walls.

For the installation of rafters, a 5x10 cm timber is cut, taking into account the slope, at the edges of which cuts are made for installation on the upper harness. The roof of the greenhouse must have a cornice about 8-10 cm long. The rafters are laid and fixed so that there are no gaps in the grooves. A frontal board is mounted on the cornice for reliable fastening of the skin. In conclusion: between the vertical racks you need to install braces, hang doors and vents on the hinges. For sheathing the frame, polycarbonate sheets are cut into pieces of the desired size, holes for thermal washers are made on them at a distance of 3-5 cm from the edge, after which the sheets are applied to the frame and screwed onto self-tapping screws.

After the greenhouse is ready, it remains to bring communications, heating, lighting and, if necessary, automatic watering. Inside, it is most convenient to make shelves to put boxes with plants or seedlings. Having the skills to work with wood and following the instructions for building a shed greenhouse, you can create an excellent functional structure for growing plants in comfortable conditions with your own hands.

The greenhouse attached to the house was conceived at a very early stage of design. The main purpose is to grow seedlings for his household plot and for the sale of surplus. This greenhouse was originally planned as a “cold” greenhouse, in winter it was planned to maintain the temperature at 2-4 degrees Celsius, the main thing is that it did not fall below 0. At this time, some outdoor plants that could die (boxwoods, lilac seedlings) and plants that do not need heat in winter (laurels, roses, tangerines grafted onto trifoliora, etc.), of course the greenhouse can be used for forcing tulips. Well, in the spring (from the end of February) when the temperature rises, it can be used to produce seedlings of flowers and vegetables.
To improve lighting conditions, a stepped design was chosen similar to the so-called Klin greenhouses of the 19th century, in which the racks from the northern part are located higher than those from the south (in the diagram on the left). Because of this, glazing was not done on the northern side of the greenhouse, since there is no light from there in winter anyway, and heat losses increase significantly.
To reduce heat costs, the floor of the greenhouse is lowered 60 cm below ground level, the walls are made of brick ¼ (inside) and reinforced concrete outside.
Because well water in our area it is hard and many plants cannot grow when watered with it for more than 6-10 months (myrtle, lemon), then in the greenhouse made of bricks, containers with a total volume of about 15 m3 for collecting rainwater. For water resistance, an appropriate additive has been added to the masonry mortar and to the plastering mortar. In addition, the inside of the tank is treated with bitumen or acrylic mastic. Water is collected both from the greenhouse itself and from the house. In 2010, this volume was enough for the entire period without precipitation.
In order that in winter the warm air does not go to the upper part of the greenhouse, the glazing is made in two skates, in this case the warm air is not collected in vain at the highest point of the structure and the temperature drops near the floor and at the highest point do not exceed 2 degrees. For ventilation and cooling summer period on top transoms are made of 6 mm cellular polycarbonate and vents on the side surface. The possibility of forced ventilation is provided - holes for fans are left in the northern wall.
The right part is used as a utility room, and soil reserves, tubers, pots are stored under the floor. The utility room itself is used for storing motorcycles, as well as a small workshop, a backup generator is also installed there.
During the construction of the house, the boiler was installed with a power reserve sufficient to maintain, in addition to normal conditions in the house, a positive temperature in this greenhouse at -15o -18o outside. Based on this, registers were calculated and established. The lack of heat was planned to be filled with electricity. The number of days in a year when the temperature drops below these indicators usually does not exceed 15-20. But interruptions in the power supply forced us to first install a cast-iron collapsible potbelly stove, instead of which this year I folded a bell-type heating stove, designed for both firewood and coal. To increase the heat removal from it, I used blowing with a domestic fan, and for a more even distribution of heat into the horizontal plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm installed a duct fan. The first frosts of this year at 26-28 degrees, the greenhouse with the addition of a new stove, the greenhouse withstood brilliantly. The presence of a large volume of water can significantly reduce daily temperature fluctuations in both summer and winter. For example, in winter, even with the onset of frosts below the calculated ones, the sufficient heat capacity of the buried greenhouse allows 1-2 days not to start additional heating of the greenhouse despite high heat losses through the glass.

Lightweight, but at the same time durable, a shed greenhouse is suitable for areas where it is impossible to allocate a lot of space for building a greenhouse. Installation is carried out at the southern wall of the building, thanks to which the seedlings will receive required amount sunlight. From a practical point of view, the operation of a 1-pitched structure does not require significant time and effort. In order to fully enjoy the benefits of a greenhouse, you need to choose the right one.

First you need to remember that the classic shed greenhouse is presented in two varieties. For seasonal use, the option covered with polycarbonate film is suitable.

If you plan to use the greenhouse year-round, then in this case the choice is made in favor of the glazed option. An important role in choosing the type of main support is played by the dimensions of the structure.

For example, the minimalist version allows the use of a wall country house. In the event that the frame is larger, an additional support post is used. It can be a stand-alone hill or an outbuilding.

In order to simplify the process of building 1-pitched greenhouses, experienced gardeners have developed some recommendations:

• The supporting wall should be as vertical as possible;
• It is necessary to clad the soil located near the supporting wall with moisture-resistant bricks;
• If the brick could not be found, then it is allowed to use wood;
• The supporting wall made of brick or reinforced concrete has great strength;
• If the structure is planned to be used year-round, then it is necessary to supply a pipe from country house through which heating will be supplied.

The degree of efficiency of using 1-pitched greenhouses largely depends on the technically correct drawing. It does not require serious knowledge in the field of engineering and construction. The task of the summer resident is to think over where and how the lighting and heating system will be placed. It will not be superfluous to pay attention to the characteristics of the supporting wall.

We mount lighting in a double-slope and single-slope greenhouse

As mentioned earlier, it is correct to place the installation of the greenhouse only along the south wall. Unfortunately, but not on every personal plot This is where the sunniest place is located.

As a result, it is necessary to look for a way to provide seedlings with the minimum required amount of sunlight. All kinds of fluorescent lamps will help to get out of this situation.

Before you put them, you should carefully study the characteristics of arched and transverse mounts. It is desirable that all attachment points are supplied with at least 2-3 fasteners.

If this requirement is met, you can proceed to install an artificial lighting system:

• If the sun hides behind the horizon late enough, then you can build a directional light source near the greenhouse;
• In winter, when daylight hours are short, a lighting system is installed in a small greenhouse in the northern part of the building;
• In the event that the dimensions of the building are significant, it is necessary to install an artificial lighting system at at least 4-5 points.

Regardless of the degree of sunlight deficiency, the gardener needs to install additional sources lux. These need from 1 to 5. For example, if the luminary is in the sky for most of the day, you can get by with a portable light source. The situation is more complicated when the lack of sunlight is noted throughout the day. A do-it-yourself stationary light source will help solve the problem.

Varieties of double-slope greenhouses

An important role in the construction of a greenhouse is played by its physical parameters. Depending on the installation option, they are divided into in-depth and ground. The first option is suitable for areas where there are no groundwater located close to the surface. In the event that the opposite is observed, it is necessary to make a choice in favor of the profile ground-based greenhouses "Mitlider".

For its construction, you will need to dig a pit, the dimensions of which are directly proportional to the dimensions of the greenhouse.

Here are some tips to help you avoid common mistakes:

• After completion of the digging of the pit, it is necessary to install ground structures;
• Due to the fact that in-depth structures are used all year round, it is necessary to think over the technology of conducting the heating system in advance;
• If the winter greenhouse will have a lot of racks for seedlings, then several supporting walls are mounted in the pit with their own hands.

At the design stage, the gardener takes into account the nature of the future building. In the event that the greenhouse is planned to be used year-round, a foundation pit must be created. Its depth and width depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe frame of the building. You can only get by with a foundation when it comes to a seasonal greenhouse installed in an area with a low groundwater level.

We put windows and doors in a gable polycarbonate greenhouse

Beginners should remember that the most difficulties arise at the stage of formation of the entrance group and vents. If in the case of a rectangular shed polycarbonate greenhouse, everything is simple, then the 2-slope version requires much more time.

To begin with, a preliminary drawing is made, taking into account the need for windows. They need to be placed in such a way that the incoming light spreads evenly inside the building.

In this case, you need to remember one, but very significant "but". Installed windows should not violate the strength of the roof.

Some of the following tips will help you avoid problems:

• In order for the gable structure to last longer, it is necessary to think about a forced ventilation system for large areas;
• An important role in determining the location of the future window is played by the angle of inclination of each roof slope;
• IN standard version assembly installation is carried out exactly in the middle, and if the angle is larger or smaller - in one of the corners;
• Gable greenhouses with identical geometry of the upper part allow installation no more than 2 window openings placed opposite each other.

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse (video)

Single-pitched and 2-pitched structures for a personal plot make it possible to comfortably place agricultural and ornamental crops. Regardless of the amount of free space, installation is carried out along the supporting wall on the south side. If there is a lack of sunlight during the day, it is better to install an artificial light source.

Examples of shed greenhouses (photo)

In most cases, gardeners install greenhouse structures on the plot as a separate building, only if there is free space. With an acute shortage of excess space, a shed wall greenhouse helps out gardeners. The design makes good use of the area.

Automatic winter lean-to greenhouse made of polycarbonate according to the type of vegetarians:

Description of a greenhouse with a pitched roof

There are no fundamental differences between a shed greenhouse and a conventional one. It is also used to grow various crops. The greenhouse differs in design and location. This is a kind of extension to a dwelling, a fence, a garage, or adjoins a hill with one wall. The roof in cross section resembles a right triangle.

How to place a wall greenhouse?

It is optimal to install a wall structure to the southern wall of the house. Otherwise, crops will not receive the required amount solar energy during the day. A greenhouse in the shade will not have time to warm up to the required temperature.

ATTENTION: It is not recommended to install a wall shelter to insufficiently strong structures. Since the creation of a certain load on the wall (non-stone and not brick) can destroy the entire building. Do not place the greenhouse next to trees and tall shrubs. Their foliage will shade the building.

Preparatory work

Before you start building an extension to the premises, you should carry out preparatory work. The first step is to develop drawings of the future shed greenhouse. In the drawing, indicate the dimensions of the building - length and height. These two values ​​should not exceed the dimensions of the room to which the greenhouse will be attached.

REFERENCE: When calculating the height of a structure, it is necessary to take into account the features of future plants grown in it. cultivated plants. High and climbing plants need more space.

You also need to prepare the foundation. Foundation construction technology:

• Dig a trench over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future extension - a depth of 40-50 cm, a width of 25-30 cm;
• Using boards, sheets of fiberboard or chipboard, assemble the formwork;
• Place a reinforcing mesh in the trench to strengthen the structure;
• Install support poles;
• Pour concrete solution;
• After 5-7 days, the solution will become solid and you can start building a greenhouse.

DIY wall greenhouse: assembly instructions

Installation of a wall greenhouse includes several stages:

Greenhouse example:

If not, you can make it yourself. Install two pillars, when pouring the foundation, and a crossbar. The door is equipped using the remains of polycarbonate. For this purpose, pieces of polycarbonate are hung on a rectangular frame. suitable sizes, and attached to the supporting pillars door hinges. In a cheaper version, a thick polycarbonate sheet is hung, the dimensions of which are 40-50 cm larger than the entrance in width and height. The stock is needed to tightly close the opening. Upon completion of construction work, the resulting structure is completely sealed. The presence of even small gaps will not allow the greenhouse to remain warm and crops may die during frosts. Silicone based sealant is used to seal gaps.

ATTENTION: When planning the installation of a wall structure, it is necessary to know that high humidity prevails inside it. This fact may provide Negative influence on the condition of the wall to which the greenhouse is attached. It is recommended during the hot summer months to take it apart to dry the walls. It is not worth disassembling the frame, you need to remove only the walls.

Wall mounted greenhouse is easy to install. The main load is carried by a solid wall of the house, therefore, it is allowed to use a less durable frame. Also, the greenhouse is additionally protected from the wind, which helps to avoid cooling in windy weather.