After planting tomato seedlings in a permanent place, the formation of a tomato bush in a greenhouse should be carried out regularly.

This is especially true when cultivating vegetables in greenhouses, which is typical for the central and northern regions of the country.

After planting tomato seedlings in a permanent place, the formation of a tomato bush in a greenhouse should be carried out regularly

What is it and what is it for?

The concept of bush formation includes pruning excess leaves, tying the stem as it grows, and removing lateral shoots in the axillary internodes located on the main trunk of the plant. Without these measures, it is almost impossible to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse.

The concept of bush formation includes pruning excess leaves, tying the stem as it grows, and removing lateral shoots in the axillary internodes located on the main trunk of the plant.

The formation of tomatoes is a prerequisite timely, abundant and healthy harvest of tomatoes. If you ignore this process, there is a risk of getting impassable thickets in the greenhouse, a source of fungal diseases and small fruits. Excess shoots take away the forces necessary for maturation from the formed ovaries. Removing dried, diseased leaves heals the tomato bush. Tying the stems provides fresh air to the plant and distributes the load on the main trunk. Free space promotes airing and, accordingly, pollination of flowers. And the abundance of sunlight affects the fruit formation and the timely ripening of vegetables.

Formation of tomatoes (video)

Bush formation process

So, how to properly pinch a tomato? For a detailed acquaintance with the process, you need to carefully view the attached video, which clearly shows which specific shoots should be removed.

In fact, everything is quite simple: all dry, damaged, rotten, diseased leaves that are in contact with the ground are subject to removal. It is also necessary to cut off all the greens growing below the first fruit ovary. She has fully fulfilled her role in delivering nutrients to flowers and is no longer needed.

Of course, you should not completely remove all the leaves. It is optimal to trim them weekly, removing at a time no more than 2-3 copies of dubious quality. The rest of the greens is an important link in the supply chain of nutrients to the ovaries.

As for the lateral shoots, they begin to grow actively after the appearance of the first flower cluster. Therefore, at this time, it is necessary to regularly inspect the axillary buds, preventing the growth of additional branches by more than 5-7 cm. If the cultivation of tomatoes is carried out in 2-3 stems, the processes located below the first fruiting brush should be left. Subsequently, they should also be pinched after the appearance of 4-5 leaves. IN to a greater extent this applies to determinant and hybrid varieties. The presented diagram shows in detail how to form tomatoes of stunted species.

The basic rule: the total number of brushes with ovaries should not be more than 3-4 per 1 stem. The rest are to be cut, like the top of the tomato bush. In this case, 2-3 leaves should be left over the last ovary. They will provide nutrients to the flower branch. Burrowing is usually carried out in the middle of summer, towards the end of July.

As for the lateral shoots, they begin to grow actively after the appearance of the first flower cluster.

Indeterminate (tall) varieties of tomatoes are grown in 1, less often in 2 stems. All extra stepsons, as well as the top (when the plant reaches the desired height), pinch. As a rule, the optimal time for this comes after the formation of 5-7 fruitful brushes and the opening of flowers on the latter. Excessive trunk height will only bring additional hassle when leaving, weaken the plant as a whole.

Details on how to form tomatoes in a greenhouse: video about pinching tomatoes.

For the best distribution of the bush's weight, maintaining the brushes with fruits, it is necessary to tie the tomato stems to ropes or trellises. On the web, you can see a huge variety of examples of such structures.

How to form tomato bushes (video)

How and when to form a bush

Sharp scissors should be used to remove leaves and overgrown side shoots. It is best to purchase a special garden tool for these purposes that does not squeeze the stem in the process. There is no need to process the slice. It is enough to let it dry, and therefore the best time for this procedure is an early sunny morning. During the day, this section will be delayed, and in the evening you can safely water it.

With timely pinching of tomatoes, thin young stems are easily broken or pinched off with nails. The main condition in this case is to reject the shoots to the side, otherwise the main trunk of the bush can be damaged.

Experienced gardeners advise not to cut off the shoot at the root, but to leave a stump 2-3 cm long. This will prevent the emergence of a new shoot in this place.

In any case, the formation of bushes is a creative process. To see it off or not, it's up to the summer resident himself

Pinching usually begins 2-3 weeks after planting the seedlings in a greenhouse or greenhouse. It is necessary to examine the main stem, leaf sinuses on it. The processes appearing in them must be removed (see video).

Disputes about how to properly form tomatoes in a greenhouse have been going on for a long time. Natural process advocates urge that this be left to the discretion of Mother Nature. However, it is known that thickening of thickets leads to crushing of fruits. Although, perhaps, this is precisely the goal of gardeners who oppose leaf pruning.

In addition, in the main territory of the country, tomato cultivation takes place in a short summer. During this time, it is difficult to achieve the ripening of the crop without removing excess greenery and additional shoots. Enhanced stimulation with mineral complexes will also not lead to anything good: an overabundance of certain substances will be observed in the fruits, which can adversely affect the taste of the tomato. In addition, a strong soil depletion is possible, which will have to be corrected for more than one year.

In any case, the formation of bushes is a creative process. To see it off or not is up to the summer resident himself. As they say, knowledge comes with experience.

Instructions for pinching and pinching tomatoes.

Tomatoes are a common vegetable that grows in many southern latitudes. It's not a secret for anyone that it is in warm regions that tomatoes ripen very quickly and their huge harvest is observed. But in the northern latitudes there is not so much light and heat, so it is necessary to care for the tomatoes correctly in order to get a decent result. Otherwise, the bushes will not have enough time, light and heat to produce large quantities of good quality fruit.

When should tomatoes be shaped?

It should be noted that in order to receive good harvest tomatoes, it is necessary to form them. Formation means pinching and pinching bushes. All these manipulations are necessary in order to develop a special agricultural technique that will allow you to get a huge harvest without loss.

It is worth noting that tomatoes grow quite well in almost all southern latitudes and ripen quickly. This is due to the optimal temperature regime, and humidity and light. In the northern regions, due to low temperatures, the ripening time of tomatoes is lengthened. This is caused by low temperatures and possibly high moisture content. Under such conditions, it is necessary to accelerate the ripening of the fruit. That is why it is used in the formation of a bush. That is, pinching it and pinching.

In many southern latitudes, tomatoes are considered not annual, but perennial plants... In our latitudes, it happens a little differently, because the temperature is not the most optimal for the growth of this culture. Therefore, if you allow the tomato to grow as it wants, with a large number of side shoots and stems, then the root system will not have enough strength to provide tomatoes with useful substances and for the fruit to ripen. The forces will be spent mainly on the growth of shoots and leaves, and not on the formation, ripening of fruits. It is for this purpose that the formation of bushes is carried out.

Gardeners have several options and methods for forming a tomato bush. It all depends on whether they grow outdoors or in a greenhouse. It is worth noting that the first pinching, that is, formation, is carried out 10-12 days after planting the seedlings. In this case, the uppermost part is pinched off. After that, again after 10-12 days, the next pinching is performed. In this case, the main stem and shoot are already determined. Based on its definition, pinching and pinching are carried out.

How to properly form tall bushes of tomatoes in a greenhouse and open field: schemes, recommendations

The formation of the bush depends on which variety the tomatoes belong to.

Early ripe. If you grow early maturing varieties, then, in principle, they ripen quite quickly and most often it is very convenient to care for such tomatoes. There is no need to remove the side branches, because the fruits ripen very quickly. In this case, there is practically no need to care for tomatoes and you will spend a minimum of time plucking off the side branches. Because the fruits themselves ripen very quickly and a small amount of nutrients is spent on the growth of lateral branches.
Tall bushes. Most often, it is recommended to leave them with one stem, that is, approximately all side additional stems are removed. This is done about once a week. It is necessary in order to increase the amount of harvest and speed up the ripening process.
Medium bushes. On medium bushes, there is no need to grow one stem, you can leave three. That is, create a real bush with side shoots. The main side shoots should be 3. Additional branches and stepchildren are removed. It is carried out according to the basic scheme.

That is, tall bushes are most often grown in one stem. This is especially true for greenhouses. This method is very convenient precisely for growing in greenhouses. In this way, it is possible to achieve a huge harvest of tomatoes. All nutrients are spent on the main stem and on the clusters with fruits that develop on them. The root system does not work for lateral shoots, because they are removed every 10-12 days. There is only one barrel left.

How to form low tomato bushes in a greenhouse and open ground: schemes, recommendations

The low grades include standard ones. It is a type of determinate cultivar that has a short and very strong stem. In this case, the leaves are similar to the crown of a tree. Such varieties are very easy to care for and do not require any formation or pinching. That is, there is no need to remove the side branches, because the variety itself does not give side shoots, but only the main lush crown is formed at the top of the bush.

Sometimes pinching is carried out in 3 trunks. It turns out a lush bush.

How to properly form a tomato bush in 1 trunk: diagram, description

Shaping into one tomato stem is a common technique used when growing tomatoes in greenhouses and open ground... This applies to determinant varieties. The method of forming a bush is quite simple.

Instructions:

After you have planted the seedlings in the ground, after 10-12 days you will see side shoots that need to be pinched. That is, absolutely all side leaves must be removed.
Only one main trunk remains, it is on it that the brushes and new fruits will form. After you see a huge number of fruits closer to autumn, you will need to pinch the top.
In this way, you will make it clear to the plant that its growth has ended and it is necessary to accelerate the process of ripening the fruits themselves.

The method of forming into one trunk is quite common and many of us have seen it. Most often at experienced summer residents you can see in the beds just such a way of forming bushes. It turns out that one trunk sticks out, there is a huge amount of fruit on it. And there are practically no leaves and shoots. This method speeds up ripening and is ideal for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse.

How to properly form a tomato bush in 2 trunks: diagram, description

The two-stem method is ideal for determinate varieties that do not develop very well into growth. The number of brushes at the tops is limited, so the number of fruits can be increased by increasing the number of main stems.

Instructions:

In this case, the formation is carried out in two stems. To do this, after the appearance of each additional shoot, they are waiting for two leaves to appear.
The stepson is removed, in exactly the same way, all lateral branches are removed. As a result, a decent amount of branches is obtained on the stem from which 2 stems depart.
This method helps to speed up the ripening process of fruits, as well as increase their number. The method is ideal for growing outdoors.

How to properly form a tomato bush in 3 trunks: diagram, description

Gardeners also use the principle of forming shrubs in three trunks. The method itself is based on getting three trunks from a huge bush, on which cysts with fruits will form. It is carried out according to a certain scheme, in which the stepsons are removed after two. That is, 2 is not removed, after that one is removed, a very lush bush is obtained. Below is a diagram of the formation of a bush in three trunks.

Tomatoes Dubrava, Cherry, Ox heart: how best to form a bush?

The method of forming a bush is selected depending on the variety and yield of tomatoes. If we talk about certain varieties, then Dubrava or Dubok refers to early maturing. Therefore, it ripens quickly enough, respectively, in order to form a bush, it is necessary to choose a method in two or three trunks. Also, many summer residents note that it is possible not to pinch and form a bush at all. Since it is short and early maturing. Therefore, tomatoes in any case will have time to ripen, even with a large amount on the brushes. The most interesting thing is that such a variety is ideal for beginners and gardeners without experience, who still do not quite know how to correctly pinch and form bushes.

Cherry differ small size fruits and are very often used in salads.

Growing features:

It is worth noting that the culture grows very quickly and is characterized by the development of a huge number of side branches. That is, tomatoes bush very strongly. If left to chance, you can get a tomato jungle with a minimum amount of fruit.
Therefore, pinching and pinching of this culture is necessary almost every week. The bush is formed in 2 or 3 trunks. In this case, absolutely all side and lower leaves are removed.
By mid-September, the upper branch can ripen rather slowly. If you notice that it starts to get colder, then the upper brush, along with the green fruits, must be removed completely. This will accelerate the ripening of the remaining two side stems and the fruits on them.
In this case, green tomatoes must be folded into boxes, they will ripen directly in them.

Tomatoes Dubrava

How many trunks are better to form tomatoes: tips

The principles of forming bushes, as well as the choice of the number of main trunks, depends on the variety. If these are early maturing varieties, then, in principle, there is no need to bother with them. Since the fruits will have time to ripen quickly enough. Accordingly, the formation can be carried out in 2 or 3 trunks. Tomatoes ripen quickly enough.

If these are late-ripening varieties or varieties that grow in greenhouses, then it is best to leave one main stem. Because such tomatoes ripen for a long time and it is necessary to ensure the flow of necessary substances into green fruits and accelerate their ripening. It should be noted that mainly hybrid varieties are grown in one stem, as well as indeterminate ones.

How to pinch the tops of tomatoes, pinch: tips

Pinching is the removal of the top itself, it is carried out mainly in order to make the bush understand that it is necessary to stop the formation of stems and side leaves, as well as stepsons. Thus, the growth of the bush itself in height stops and all forces go to ensure that the fruits ripen as quickly as possible.

Instructions:

Pickling and pinching is done early in the morning on a sunny day. It is necessary to do this so that by the end of the day the place from which you remove the twig has time to dry out, the infection does not get inside.
Many gardeners recommend treating the cut site with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Pinching and pinching can be done with your fingers or pruning shears. Whom it is more convenient.
The process itself is carried out every 10-12 days, some varieties must be pinched every week. These include cherry tomatoes, which bush very strongly, give a large number of side shoots.

What happens if the tomatoes are not formed?

Many gardeners are wondering what will happen if they do not form the bushes, do not pinch them. It all depends on which bush you have planted. If these are undersized, early ripening bushes, then in principle you will get a more or less decent harvest. Initially, there is no great need for pinching and shaping such bushes. Because they give a small amount of side shoots and branches.

But if you grow plants that bush very strongly, then in this case you will get an impenetrable jungle of tomatoes with very little fruit. This is due to the fact that all forces will be spent on the growth of lateral shoots, stems and leaves. And also for their food. At the same time, nutrients will not be enough for the nutrition of the fruits themselves and the development of the hands. Therefore, you run the risk of getting a weak harvest, or you will get a large number of green tomatoes that will not have time to ripen on the branches.

As you can see, growing tomatoes is not easy at all, because besides watering, tying and fertilizing, you need to regularly pinch and pinch the bushes. This contributes to the good development of the bush, as well as obtaining a huge yield of tomatoes.

VIDEO: Grassing tomatoes

How to form tomatoes in a greenhouse?

To obtain a high yield of tomatoes, remove the leaves below the first ovary. When the next brush is formed, remove the leaves up to this brush again.

This group includes the most undersized varieties tomatoes, and, as a rule, they do not require pinching. When growing such varieties, you must carefully read the recommendations of the growers for the formation of a tomato bush, which are given on the seed package.
Indeterminate;

How many stems will your greenhouse tomatoes have? Depending on the type of tomato and the area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse, you can form a bush into one, two or three stems.

3-5cm in length

If the stepchildren are not removed, the cost of such inaction is a huge amount of leaves, with a small harvest. That is why you should not give up pinching, you just need to clearly understand how to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse correctly so that the plants receive all the necessary nutrients and can please you with a good harvest. Let's take a closer look at how and when to carry out pinching, as well as how to distinguish the stepson from the sheet.

The indeterminate tomato is a plant with unlimited growth. It usually grows up to 2 meters or more in height. The determinant tomato grows to a certain height, on average 50-70 cm, sometimes even lower.

Regular application of nutrients due to the shallow root system;

On three stems.

Most tomato and eggplant varieties need bush formation to get a good harvest. From the axils of the leaves located on the main stem, numerous shoots - stepchildren - strive to grow. If they are not removed, the plants will turn into multi-stem bushes, and the set fruits will not have time to ripen and will fall off.

The main rule that should be observed is that if all the fruits have not yet set in the brush, then most of the leaves should be intact above the brush, even if another brush is forming there. And vice versa - if in the brush all the tomatoes have already tied, then below this brush you can safely remove all the leaves. At one time, you should not remove more than one or two leaves from a plant, so as not to provoke it to restore green mass to the detriment of fruit ripening. Tomato leaves break off easily if done correctly - pressing the petiole up at the base along the stem. If you pull the leaf down, then often a long strip of skin from the stem stretches behind the detached leaf, which damages the bush. We do this procedure in the morning on a sunny day, so that the wound dries up in a day.

First of all, the bushes of the most valuable varieties of tomatoes, as well as the healthiest plants, are pinched. All tomato bushes on which there are any spots, yellowing and other troubles, stepchildren last.

Most often, it is on low-growing plants formed into one stem that tomatoes are harvested early. For this you need:

Semi-determinant;

... This is necessary so that the plant does not waste nutrients for their growth, and also so as not to unnecessarily injure the bush by removing large shoots.

How to shape eggplants in a greenhouse?

The formation of a tomato bush of indeterminate and determinant varieties occurs in different ways. An indeterminate plant must be shaped so that only one main stem remains. To do this, you will have to delete all stepsons on it.
Good and timely watering;
By analogy with the second method, you need to leave two stepsons, who will have 2 brushes with fruits each. The main stem will get a load of 3 fruit brushes.
In order for growing tomatoes in greenhouses not to give negative results, you need to follow several rules. These recommendations are aimed at how to properly form a tomato bush in a greenhouse. All actions should be aimed at forming 5-6 clusters with fruits on the plant. This is done using pinning. Because the formation of a tomato bush is to remove stepchildren.
Tall varieties, in addition to removing the stepsons, you also need to pinch - remove the crown to stop growth, leaving 1-2 leaves above the uppermost brush. IN middle lane Russia do this towards the end of July and beginning of August. That is, it is assumed that all further brushes will still not have time to form a crop. After such a pinch, when, in principle, we do not need to build up the vegetative mass, you can remove all the leaves, except for the top 3-4. is a good prevention of tomato diseases.
It is better to break out stepchildren, trying not to let the juice of the plant get on your hands.

Remove all stepsons.

Determinant.

According to experts in the field agriculture, for greenhouses, the most suitable is the single-stem type of tomato bush formation. Experienced gardeners disagree with them: in their opinion, the more stems the tomatoes have, the higher the yield of fruits can be obtained from each greenhouse bush.

Given the simplicity of this procedure, the answer to this question will be very simple: as soon as you saw stepsons on a tomato bush. They form most actively after the first flower clusters appear on the bushes.

Tomato grazing is the removal of all unnecessary lateral shoots - stepchildren that grow from the leaf axils. It is necessary to carry out this procedure, since the stepsons take most of the nutrients coming from the roots to the aerial part of the tomato.

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Formation of a tomato bush: fewer stepchildren - better harvest

On the packaging with the seeds of determinant tomato, sometimes they also write "nonsynky", thereby misleading people. Of course, such tomatoes will also perceive the formation of a bush positively. But not all stepsons need to be deleted. The determinant plant is formed into two or three stems. It is necessary, in addition to the central stem, to leave, respectively, one or two lower stepsons (the first is under the flower brush, the second is the strongest of the remaining), of which lateral stems will form later.

Constant humidity, which is achieved by mulching the row spacing;

An ideal tomato bush is 5-6 clusters with fruits and about three dozen leaves. Such a plant will enable all nutrients to be directed to the growth and ripening of tomatoes.

Rules for pinching tomato bushes:

When forming bushes into two stems, we leave the main shoot and the stepson growing under the first flower brush. It is usually the most powerful.

You can learn more about how to properly pinch a tomato in a greenhouse from the video materials located here.

Leave 2-3 inflorescences, removing all the rest.

When a bush is formed into one stem, all stepchildren are broken out, as well as the so-called "doubles" that form when the stem is bifurcated, but all the flower brushes, including the lowest one, are left.

The most difficult thing to do is pinching tomatoes in a greenhouse if you haven't cut off your stepsons for a long time. The most difficult thing is to understand which of the large grown stems is the stepson, and which is the real one.

The purposes of pinning are:

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Grassing tomatoes in a greenhouse, and why is it needed?

Stepsons retire as soon as they reach 7-10 cm in length. Break them off with your thumb and forefinger. And just break it out, not cut it with a knife or scissors. It is also impossible to pluck and pull out - after such a pinching, the plant receives a wound that does not heal for a long time, open to a fungal infection. In general, the wounds from pinching remain in any case. For them to heal faster, the formation of a tomato bush should be carried out on a clear, sunny morning.

And obligatory plant formation.

To reduce the number of leaves on the plant, you need to gradually remove them. Better a few sheets a week. Otherwise, tomatoes will be stressed and grow slower.

What is pinning?

Start pinching the plants as soon as they go into intensive growth,

In the photo, a yellow arrow is a stepson, a white arrow is a flower brush. We immediately tie it up and follow the two trunks in the same way. All other stepchildren - higher and lower regularly, about once a week, break out.

Almost every gardener grows tomatoes on his plot. But not everyone manages to harvest a large harvest, some have the entire harvest "goes to the tops." To get a good harvest of tomatoes (tomato), they must be pinned correctly.

After the last inflorescence, a few leaves are left and pinch the top - the growth point.
Each of these types has its own characteristics of formation and pinching. You can watch video materials on how to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse.
Tip: you can identify the stepson by his location: they usually grow out from under the first flower brush.

How to distinguish a stepson from a leaf?

Formation of a bush into the required number of stems: one or several.

Having broken out the stepson, in its place you need to leave a small stump with a height of 1-2 cm.If this is not done and the shoot is completely broken, the stepson will begin to form from the same place.

The plant is left with only one stem if it is weak or there is not enough space in the greenhouse. In this case, you need to leave one strong shoot, which is necessarily tied to a wire or stick. The ovaries that the plant gives need to be thinned, and the tops of the shoots with the fruits are pinched. All newly emerged shoots and buds are immediately removed. How to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse.Stepsons are removed, leaving a small stump.

When should you stepchild?

If it is decided to leave three stems, we leave the stepson under the first flower brush and, at choice, the most powerful of those that are located below, or the one that is located immediately or through one above the inflorescence and we grow them as additional stems, tying each to the supports. In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ”

Why pinch tomatoes and what stepsons are, unfortunately, some gardeners do not know. Stepping out is the removal (breaking out) of all unnecessary shoots - unnecessary stepsons. And what are stepsons? Plant stepchildren are all lateral shoots emerging from the leaf axils. In order not to confuse stepchildren with leaves, take a close look at the bush. The photo clearly shows what a stepson is.

Important: when forming semi-determinant and determinant varieties, tomatoes in one stem, with 3-4 flower clusters preserved, tomatoes on such bushes will appear a couple of weeks earlier.

These are tomato varieties that have no growth restrictions. These varieties tend to form into one stem. This is due to the fact that indeterminate plants tend to form many lateral processes.

When forming two-stem tomatoes, they leave not only the main stem, but also the first stepson, as a rule, the strongest and most actively developing. It is located directly under the very first flower cluster of the bush. All other stepsons are removed. This is clearly seen in the photo.

How to carry out the correct pinching

The most favorable time to spend picking tomatoes in the greenhouse, according to the video, is morning. It is at this time that they break off most easily. In addition, in a day, the wound formed after breaking the stepson will heal.

Getting more early harvest fruits. (See How to equip the beds for a good harvest) When a gardener starts forming a tomato bush, he must clearly distinguish between the stepson and the flower shoot. Some unknowingly break out flowers instead of young shoots, thereby, naturally, reducing the yield of tomatoes. Although there is a significant and well-marked difference between them. The stepson always has leaves, even when he is still very small. There is not a single leaf on the flower tassel A strong plant with sufficient space in the greenhouse is given the opportunity to grow into several branches, and this will be the correct formation of an eggplant bush.
In order to get high yields to grow large tomatoes in a greenhouse, you need to correctly form the stem of the tomato bush.

Several techniques are used to carry out activities aimed at the formation of a tomato bush.

Formation of a bush into one stem

It is possible to remove all stepchildren up to 3-4 brushes on determinant and semi-determinant varieties, then leave one of the most powerful stepson.

Stepsons do not grow on a bare stem. First, the leaf grows, and only then from the leaf axilla (between the leaf and the main stem) an shoot appears - a stepson, which is constantly growing. New leaves and "own" stepchildren of the 2nd order appear on it. Thus, the bush begins to branch. The stepsons must be removed in a timely manner, when they reach a length of 5-7 cm. Experts advise not to cut them off, but to break them off with your fingers, directing them to the side, leaving a stump of 2-3 mm to prevent the new stepson from growing in this place. something better to do in the morning. when stepsons break off easily. If the optimal dates are missed and the new stepson has outgrown, then it should still be removed, since the plant will spend juices on it. Stepson should be from the first appearance of the stepsons after planting the bush in the ground until August, if you miss the time, everything will go into the leaf mass and there will be little fruit.

Forming in two stems

In conclusion, a small instruction on general rules pinching tomatoes grown in the greenhouse:

To form a tomato bush into one stalk, it is necessary to remove all stepsons. It is advisable to leave a "stump" about 1 cm in height at the site of the remote shoot. This contributes to the slower formation of new shoots. On such tall plant leave, as a rule, about 10 flower shoots, removing all the rest.

Forming into three stems

To get three stems on one bush tomatoes you need:

Important: in order to prevent the spread of various viral diseases from one plant to another, the stepson needs to be broken out, trying to prevent the juice from getting on your hands.
Prolongation of the fruiting period of tomato bushes.
In addition to pinching, the formation of a tomato bush in a greenhouse also includes pinching, i.e. removal of the growth point on the preserved shoots. This is done in the first half of August.

Features of pinching of different types

To grow a compact eggplant bush with well-developed lateral shoots, it is necessary to remove the top of the main stem. This is best done when the plant has grown to about 25-30 cm. Bushes with a pinched top begin to branch quickly. Of all the shoots that have appeared, it is most reasonable to leave only 4-5 upper branches (stepsons), and remove the rest. A crop will be formed on the left shoots. At the same time, 16-20 fruits are left on the eggplant plants. The plant does not need to be pinched, but it is necessary to remove the extra stepsons.

It is only necessary to form tomato bushes in 1 stem - the main stem goes up, and it is tied up. The leaves of the plant, also on the main stem, and then flower brushes will grow on it, which then pass into fruit brushes. And not a single stepchild (additional stem) should be. It is especially scary when the stepsons walk out of the ground, next to the main stem. These are wild stepchildren, they must be removed. Therefore, after the formation of a tomato bush, you should have a stem, leaves and subsequently flower brushes on it. Nothing else.
On one stem.
Leaving more stems on one plant is not rational. Since tall tomatoes are practically unlimited in growth, it will be difficult for the roots to "feed" more than three stems. -this will affect the size and quality of the fruit. If the harvest is important to you, then in no case should you thicken the plantings. The plant can only grow fully in bright light. And in thickened plantings there is less light, so the plant is not able to fully bear fruit. With a large number of fruits on the bush (without pinching), their ripening is greatly delayed. That is why many do not wait for the ripe harvest, and tomatoes ripen already plucked. In a thickened bush, favorable conditions are created for the most pernicious disease of the nightshade - late blight. The bush must be very well ventilated.

Before pinching the tomatoes, first of all you need to decide for yourself how you will form the bush. Indeterminate varieties, with unlimited growth, up to 2 meters in height and more, are grown, as a rule, in one stem, determinant, semi-determinant (low) - in 2-3. You can determine the variety by reading the information on the package with seeds. On a bush in one stem, the fruits will ripen faster, since the plant will spend less energy on the development of the green mass. Of course, they must either be tied up on a trellis or on a support.

Carry out pinching of tomatoes only in the morning, in sunny and dry weather. When removing the stepsons at this time, the wounds heal well and the plant does not get sick. If you have to remove stepchildren in wet weather with high humidity, then the instrument that will be removed must be disinfected with 1% potassium permanganate solution after working with each plant.

Indeterminate varieties

If the size of your greenhouse allows, then you can form such bushes in two stems. (See Dimensions of a polycarbonate greenhouse) To do this, leave the first or second stepson, after which the bush is spud and mulched. On the second stem, you can leave 4-5 flower brushes, be sure to remove all lateral and basal shoots.

Leave the stepson under the first flower brush.

Before proceeding with the removal of all unnecessary shoots, you need to decide on the following:

Semi-determinant varieties

Getting more fruit of high quality from a unit of greenhouse area.

A good prevention against fungal diseases of tomatoes will also be the removal of their lowest leaves that touch the ground. This should be done with all leaves growing on the stem in the "30 cm zone", starting from the ground surface.

Removed stepchildren can be laid in a compost heap in the country or they can be mulched over the soil in berry beds or under fruit and berry bushes, especially black currants will appreciate this.

Determinant varieties

Formation of a low-growing tomato bush: Low-growing tomato varieties do not need pinching and pruning. Tall tomatoes of indeterminate and hybrid varieties are prone to rapid growth. It is the low-growing varieties of tomatoes that are recommended for growing in greenhouses for more efficient use of the protected ground area.

In this technique, it is supposed to remove all stepsons from the main stem so that 5-6 brushes with fruits are left on it. A few leaves should be left behind the brushes with future fruits. This is necessary for the correct circulation of the sap in the stems of the plant.

Old, yellowing and stained leaves should be removed first. Following them, it is worthwhile to lighten the bushes from time to time - cut out the leaves that face the north side, or are in the depths of the bush, or in the shade of other bushes. Such a shaded leaf will not give us much benefit in terms of photosynthesis, and by removing excess leaves, we will improve the overall ventilation of the planting, especially when it comes to a greenhouse.
When forming bushes into one stem, we leave only one main stem, almost all stepchildren are removed. When forming determinant varieties in 1 stem, it is better not to touch the topmost stepson, just in case. It happens that the bush ends early, the main stem ceases to grow, then there is a spare stepson, on which ovaries and fruits will also develop.
Greenhouse tomatoes need to be grazed on a weekly basis, it can be combined with the removal of leaves.

Semi-determinant tomatoes can grow up to 180cm. If the plants are not planted very densely, then they can be formed in both two and three stems.

We find and leave one more strong and well-developed stepson. It is usually located directly under the first stepson.

In the photo, red marks indicate stepsons who need to be removed.

How to form a cucumber bush

When forming a bush, you need to observe methodology. Once a week, you can often wrap the stem around the twine clockwise. The top must be left unwrapped.

This stage implies the correct direction of plant growth, garter, pruning. You need to know where and how to pinch off the bush so that it starts up new shoots and ovaries.

Each of these types has its own methods and types of pinching. The best time for pinching a cucumber occurs when 8-9 leaves appear, not counting the cotyledon pair. The side branches should be completely plucked from below, in the middle of the plant it will be enough to remove one cucumber and one leaf. .Upper shoots need to be pinched on 2-3 leaves. And if the cucumber has reached the trellis wire, it is tied to the trellis with the help of a wire, a rope, a strong elastic thread.

For example, for growing varieties that are prone to shoot growth, indoor conditions are better suited. When growing them in greenhouses, you need to prepare for careful care and adherence to the formation schemes, so growing a plant in a greenhouse is not very advisable at the moment.

The correct and timely formation of the cucumber bush will allow you to get excellent yields in your greenhouses.

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How to form cucumbers outdoors

After the appearance of the upper leaves of the lateral shoots from the axils, they are lowered to the bottom and pinched at a level of 1.5 m above the ground.

When to start forming a bush

How to tie cucumbers in a greenhouse

It is no secret for gardeners that the cucumber is a "mustachioed" culture, and therefore it must be taken into account, and moreover, it must be used for their own purposes.
There are varieties of cucumbers that do not require shaping and do not pinch them.
When forming a bush, you need to trim the plants with scissors with sharp blades, otherwise the plant can be damaged, torn.

In the second zone, at a height of 80-90 cm above ground level, pinching is done, 2 shoots are left and one cucumber and 1-2 leaves are left.

On plants, you constantly need to remove male flowers, damaged cucumbers and antennae. The antennae do not allow the plant to develop, since they take almost all the energy and nutrients.

The clothespin procedure is carried out on young shoots of cucumbers in order to increase yield. The fact is that lateral shoots are female, and there are male, they are pinned so that new ovaries appear. If you do not do the pinching procedure, then the plant will not tie and, accordingly, bear fruit. If the formation of the cucumber in the greenhouse is correct, then the harvest will be generous.

These methods are suitable not only for cucumbers grown in greenhouses, but also explain how to form cucumbers in the open field, growing on trellises. Sciences such as agronomy and biology explain that plants grown indoors develop slightly differently than those planted outdoors. On the lashes, female flowers are more often formed, shoots branch more, while on the main main stem, as a rule, male flowers are present. To properly form a bush, there is a pinching method. It is suitable for most varieties and is especially effective in growing cucumbers indoors, that is, in greenhouses.
For indoor cultivation, hybrids are suitable, in which the shoots are of moderate growth.
To get a good harvest and achieve good results, you need to properly care for your cucumbers, tie and form a whip, and then your harvest will delight with its abundance.

If you do everything right and pay attention to the formation of the bush in a timely manner, then you will have every chance of a great harvest from May to October. All the best to you.

How to form cucumber lashes correctly

One way to tie a bush is to form a bush of three to four plant stems. At the same time, the mustache is used to tie the side branches. This is done as follows, the main stem is tied with a thread to the trellis, and when the first ovary is formed on the side stem, it must be pulled to the main stem at an angle of 60 degrees. Then the mustache from the main stem is twisted onto a taut shoot. As the plants grow, this procedure is repeated, and of course, over time, the mustache becomes a lot, and you cannot refrain from removing the mustache.

Garter cucumber

Although the most common practice is to pick off the whiskers of greenhouse cucumbers, this is because they cling to neighboring plants and interfere with each other's growth and fruiting.

You can form cucumbers in a greenhouse, or in open ground, the main thing is that all forces will be directed to the fruit formation of the plant, and not to the growth of foliage and empty stems.

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We form cucumbers in the greenhouse + video ...

It will take a long time for wounds to heal.

In the third zone (height 1 m 30 cm) 2 cucumbers and 2 leaves are left.

How does the formation take place?

It is necessary to monitor the integrity of the stem. It is very fragile and can crack or bend easily.

You need to monitor the growth of the plant. If it has grown by 6 sheets, then you need to pinch off the top. If the bush has grown by 20 cm, then time is lost, and the plant will no longer bear fruit in width, it will not set new shoots. Conclusion: you need to closely monitor the growth of cucumbers.

The stems of greenhouse cucumbers need to be tied to trellises that reach a height of 1.5-2 m. After planting, a week should pass, when the seedlings get stronger and adapt, a twine is left from the trellis, which is easily tied with a loop to the young stem between the second and third leaves. You do not need to pull it tight so as not to damage the plant, you need to leave a small tolerance. Over time, this will not be necessary when the cucumber itself begins to pull itself up with its antennae along the vertical trellis. The loop must be free, otherwise the transmitted stem will not be able to fully feed and transmit to fruits

The process of carrying out the formation of a cucumber in a greenhouse

Among these varieties of cucumbers, three types of typical differences in the degree of growth are distinguished:

Methods for forming cucumber bushes are:

The root system of the cucumber is not too strong, therefore only with its help the plant is not able to provide all the ovaries that are formed on it with nutrients and water throughout the entire growth process.

This kind of bush formation is possible with frequent planting of plants - no more than half a meter. And the mustache, even when it dries, holds the bush perfectly.
How to form cucumbers in a greenhouse
If a lot of barren flowers are formed, then do not pick them off immediately. It is necessary to dry the soil and all the nutrients will crawl into the fruits of the cucumbers.

In the fourth zone - the topmost, leave three cucumbers and 3 leaves.

During the growing season, yellowed and dry leaves, as well as damaged shoots, must be carefully removed.

Level distribution scheme

After planting the cucumber seedlings in the greenhouse, after about 3-4 days, you need to tie the seedling sprouts to a stretched wire.
For hybrids and small-fruited varieties, the cucumber is led vertically along the trellis. The main stem is pinched only when the top of the trellis is reached, the side shoots are removed, the remaining shoots are removed after the third leaf. Long-fruited varieties of cucumbers require the removal of all female flowers in the first three leaves, all side lashes. The main stem is pinched at 3-4 leaves above the trellis level, and the remaining shoots are removed at a height of 1 meter.
Branching stems with high shoot growth,
Pinching,

In order for your plants not to suffer, develop correctly and give decent yields, you need to know that the formation of a cucumber bush is a necessary measure. Let's talk about the features of this procedure.

However, the most common way to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse is to remove the whiskers and side shoots half a meter from the ground. First, the main stem is tied up, and then all excess is removed. This area is called the "blinding" zone. The pinching is done above the designated zone, at a distance of 1 meter from the ground above the first leaf of the lateral shoot, the pinching is done and only one ovary is preserved. After half a meter, another pinch is made over the second sheet and 2 ovaries are already left. And so the cucumbers are formed in the greenhouse to the top with the addition. One ovary should fall on one leaf.

Why form a cucumber bush? This is not a necessary operation for all varieties. The formation of the bush is conditioned by the morphological and biological characteristics of the variety. First of all, you need to find out the number of male and female flowers.

From hereAdult branches at the top are very finicky. Their location does not need to be changed when picking cucumbers. This can lead to death, yellowness of plant tops.
After the stem grows to the wire, it is wrapped around, 1-2 cucumbers and 3-4 leaves are left and pinched. This is how a cucumber bush is formed.
With the help of pinching, new varieties of cucumbers and other types of crops are brought out. Previously, male flowers grew on the main stem, and female flowers on the side ones. Now modern varieties imply other options. Therefore, before pinching was carried out over 5-6 leaves.
When the stem reaches the level of the wire, pinch it and leave 3-4 leaves on it. The leaves must be wrapped around a wire or other support, and the stem of the plant must be tied in two places to the same support or wire. After the lateral shoots appear on the bush, they need to be pulled out and pinched above ground level at a distance of one and a half meters. If everything is done correctly, then the bush will bear fruit for a long time. The procedure for forming a bush is not so simple. A person who does not possess certain knowledge and skills cannot cope here. Therefore, the first time you need to consult a professional gardener, so as not to lose the harvest and time.
Each culture requires special attention. Each vegetable needs special care, watering, processing, protection from weeds and pests, creating conditions with the correct temperature regime and the required air humidity. It also requires the right light, soil, fertilization, feeding and timing of planting, planting seedlings and harvesting. If you follow all the rules for caring for the crop, then the harvest will be good. Sometimes there is such a summer that does not give any harvest, no matter how hard the gardeners try. But still, you don't need to count on "maybe". If you put in a sufficient amount of labor, then the fruits will be worthy. The formation of cucumbers in the greenhouse is one of the important stages of crop care.

The apical bud grows actively, the main stem weakly branches.

Tying,

Of course, there is no single methodology, but the main nuances are as follows. Formation must begin when the plants have eight to nine true leaves. When the active setting of cucumber fruits begins, the growth of the bush itself slows down, because now the plant lets all the nutrients and moisture into the growth of the fruits. Therefore, I advise you to leave a couple of especially well-developed cucumbers on the 5-6 bosom, and remove the rest. In the next bosom, remove all the ovaries. Then again leave 2-3 of the most developed fruits, and nothing in the subsequent sinus. Next, leave a stepson on the plant, on which there are 2-3 fruits and so on. This method allows the fruits to ripen evenly, without becoming shallow.

Pinching is done only with young shoots, if time is lost and the length of the plant is more than 20 cm, then it is too late and this, of course, will not affect the harvest for the better. So don't miss the moment. And be careful.

The formation of a grape bush is a creative and responsible activity. This process is carried out in spring and autumn, sometimes in summer. It is necessary to give the vine the desired and comfortable shape for a specific area.

Grape formation is most often carried out in spring or autumn.

The importance of grape bush formation

Formation of grapes greatly affects the fertility and longevity of the grape bush.

Planning the harvest for the year ahead will depend on the ripening of the vines of this year, left for the winter with eyes. The next spring, the sprouts will sprout from the peephole, bearing fruit.

Forming a grape bush, taking into account the terrain, type of culture, germination technology.

The chosen competent grape modeling scheme affects:

increased yield;
improving the properties of berries;
comfort of care.
the correct formation of a grape bush is distinguished by its simplicity, flexibility, ensuring the restoration of culture

The formation process begins in a year or two from planting and lasts 3-6 years. It all depends on the modeling method. This process is completed when the model of the grape bush and fruit vine is visible, which ensures full fruitfulness.

Keeping in shape, subsequently, autumn pruning is carried out, and this is better than in the spring. When pruning, 70-90% of one-year-old shoots, fruit-bearing trees of this year, weak empty shoots and, if necessary, parts of old wood are removed.

Autumn pruning of grapes is preferred

Guyot's scheme in the formation of culture

In cold areas, for sheltering grape varieties, the most popular is shankless forming. The French winegrower Guyot, about 150 years ago, developed an advantageous grape-forming system, which is used as a classic. This method is quite simple and effective, the bush is completely covered by the sun. This method is very good for novice winegrowers.

How is Guyot culture formed?

In the first year, a strong shoot is grown. It is cut off in the fall, leaving two eyes from the ground or above the graft. (sometimes three eyes are left for insurance purposes).
In the second year, two one-year old pagoneses grow from the left eyes. In the fall, they are cut off: one for a short process (knot) with 2-3 eyes, the second - a long one (vine) for bunches.
A year later, a twig and a vine will again grow from the eyes of the knot.

A fruitful vine must be approached with imagination. Only 6-12 eyes are left on a young bush (at least 4). When the bush begins to bear fruit, if desired, coordinate the load on the bush. By changing the length of the arrows, the size of the bunches changes.

The fruiting vine is tied in the spring to the bottom row of the support in a horizontal position, taking into account the vertical growth of the grapes.

In the third year, after the horizontal garter, fruitful one-year-old pagontsy grow from the fertile vine in the spring.

So that the Pagon people have a good development, they are tied up together with replacement knots in an upright position.

In the fall, after harvesting, pruning of the fruitful vine is carried out along with the fruit shoots. It is necessary to remove all flattened processes down to the knot. Then there will be a knot and two growing arrows. In the next year, a new twig and a young vine will form from them.

And so it is repeated from year to year.

For vigorous bushes, technical varieties that must withstand a large burden, they strengthen the Guyot fruit link, tripling it: the replacement knot is left with three buds, and the fruiting vine with two arrows. As a result, three vines ripen on a replacement knot: the lower one for the formation of a new knot, the upper two for fruitfulness.

Guyot's scheme is suitable for the formation of grapes in cold regions

This method is the most popular in bush design. This method differs from the Guyot method in that it grows up to 3-5 arms instead of 1-2. In fan modeling, fruit links are placed fan-shaped on a support.

Fan formations can be:

big and small;
standard and standard;
short-sleeved and long-sleeved;
unilateral and bilateral;
single-tiered and two-tiered, when fruit pagoneses are placed in 2-3 tiers.

In the cold climatic conditions, the non-standard method is often used: a fan or a half-fan (one-sided).

The advantages of this method are as follows:

convenience in caring for grapes;
convenience in covering;
coordination by the presence of sleeves and fruit links;
rejuvenation of the bush and sleeves is carried out without difficulty;
excellent taste of berries, high fruitfulness.

After planting the bush, in the first two years, the grape work is similar to the previous method.

In the third year, the sleeves are made in the spring. The main goal is to form two vines on each arm. Already in the third year, the bush begins to bear fruit and at least four shoots are formed, reaching a length of one meter and a thickness of 6-10 mm. Trimming of the Pagonists is carried out by setting the length of the expected sleeves, which is at least 50 cm.

For the first time, tying is carried out in the spring to the lowest wire (30-60 cm from the soil surface), creating the appearance of a fan.

In spring, the trimming of the Pagonists inside the fan becomes shorter, the outer processes are longer.

During the growing period, annual shoots are removed from each sleeve. 2-3 shoots are left at the top, which are necessary for the formation of new links and lengthening of the sleeves. The garter to the trellis is vertical.

In the southern area, before winter shelter cut off the green, unripe vine, cut off the antennae. If the vine is well ripe, the upper branch is cut for the best yield of the vine, and is located slightly lower on the replacement knot. What distance will be between them, only the bush knows.

If is coming cold winter, leave the third shoot as the second replacement knot for insurance.

For 4-5 years of bush growth, fruit links are created on ripe sleeves. For the arrow, which forms fruits by 4-6 eyes, the upper vine is cut off, the lower one is cut by 2-3 eyes as a replacement knot.

Subsequently, they are bred to 6-8 sleeves. This method ensures long-term growth of the sleeves. The bush will bear fruit for a long time if the shelter for the winter is made with air-dry materials. To rejuvenate the bush and replace long-lived sleeves, in the future, coppice shoots are used, or 2-3 eyes are kept on the restoration knot at the base of the sleeve, near the head of the bush.

Formation of grapes in a fan: a) seedling after planting; b) two-year-old bush and pruning points; c) a three-year-old bush and pruning points; d) four-year bush and pruning points; e) a ready bush for the fall of the fourth year

Method of the Moscow pinless small fan

This method is one of the new ones, since it was developed by a member of the MOIP D.M. Tokarev. The technique is perfect for small backyards.

This formation allows the bushes to be placed in a row closer than 70-100 cm, with a distance between rows of 1.5-2 meters. Although, according to the rules, the bushes are located at a distance of two or more meters. The autumn shelter of the bushes with dry material through which the air passes will give the sleeves the ability to live up to 10 years and quickly renew if necessary to replace them.

In the northern regions, it is beneficial to form a one-sided fan or semi-fan. This method allows you to occupy a small area, which is impossible with fan shapes.

It would be wiser to form a stamper-free fan when the vine is still young and flexible. When the sleeves get rougher, they often turn into a fanned one-sided formation. The fruiting of a grape variety often depends on the right choice bush formation schemes.

It is important to start grape formation with your own hands, otherwise it is difficult to understand. Modeling vines is a creative yet fun job. Starting to do it yourself. Gradually, everything will work out: the grapes will tell you, the hands will feel.

Correctly done grape pruning will create comfort for pollination of inflorescences in spring, the ability to air the bushes.

Formation of the bush in stages, from the first to the fifth year of planting

Grape formation on gazebos

A grape bush that forms on a gazebo or in the form of an alley is very common not only in industrial plantings, but also in summer cottages. This is how the grapes yield a good harvest with proper care.

The grapes on the gazebo, becomes protection from the wind, the burning sun. For this formation, powerful table varieties with large berries are used.

The rules for forming a bush on a gazebo are as follows:

Each bush occupies a dedicated area in the gazebo.
If the gazebo is multi-tiered, each bush is brought out to a certain one tier to avoid uneven growth.
Pruning is long with the formation of a fruit link.

How to form bushes. Ways to form a grape bush. Video: pinching tomatoes