Bathtub refurbishment. Restoration of cast iron bathtubs. Cover restoration options

Cast iron bathtubs are not in vain very popular with buyers. Even though the market is filled with acrylic and steel taxes, cast-iron models not only do not go out of fashion, but also strengthen their positions. The reason for this demand is quite simple - a cast iron bath is durable, and at the same time it perfectly retains heat. However, over time, the coating of the cast-iron bath wears out, chips, spots and cracks appear on it. In such a situation, there can be only two options for solving the problem - restoring enamel on a cast-iron bath or buying a new one.

If we talk about buying, then it is worth considering a number of points that significantly affect the price of the issue, namely:

in addition to the cost of a new bathtub, the dismantling of the old model and its disposal should be taken into account;
the cost of delivery, transportation and loading of the purchased bath significantly increase its final cost;
restoration of cast-iron bathtubs allows you to avoid such moments as installation and connection, because when restoring enamel, you do not have to overpay for installation and dismantling.

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs

If you are not used to wasting money and time in vain, you will certainly be interested in such a service as the restoration of cast-iron bathtubs. Modern technologies and innovative materials allow you to return the bathtub to a radiant look and presentability in the shortest possible time at no extra cost.

Our advantages

Quality materials from Germany directly from the manufacturer

The material is non-toxic, odorless! Hardening - 20 hours

We work without prepayment, under the contract. Responsible approach

Experienced craftsmen. We have been restoring bathtubs for over 10 years.

Warranty up to 5 years! Service life of material 15 years

Prompt order fulfillment. Technical support

Price for restoration of a cast-iron bath

Bathtub 120 cm.

German quality.
Drying 20 hours.
Service life of 15 years!

3 800 rub.

3 500 rub.

Bathtub 150 cm.

German quality.
Drying 20 hours.
Service life of 15 years!

4 000 rub.

3 700 rub.

Bathtub 170 cm.

German quality.
Drying 20 hours.
Service life of 15 years!

4 200 rub.

3 900 rub.

Restoration of enamel on a cast-iron bath

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs in Moscow is one of the services offered by our company. Even if your bath has completely lost its original appearance, do not rush to look for a replacement. The unique enamel restoration technology on a cast-iron bathtub will transform it, eliminating the need for an expensive purchase.

By contacting us, you can be sure that:

all restoration work cast iron bath will be performed at the highest level;
you will be provided with a guarantee for all types of services provided;
the quality of work will not cause any complaints;
the cost of restoration will not hit your pocket.

Call us and make sure that the restoration of the enamel on the bath is fast, easy and very profitable!

Additional services

Name of service	Price
Installing an acrylic skirting board on the side of the bath	1300 rub.
Installation of our screen under the bathtub on an aluminum frame (regardless of the length of the bathtub)	2200 rub.
Installation of a new siphon (re-departure of the master 24 hours after drying. New siphon, corrugations, cuffs, connection + warranty)	1250 rub.
Installing the 150 cm acrylic liner.	4000 rub.
Installing the 170 cm acrylic liner.	4200 rub.
Call a measurer for advice and correct measurement of the bath	500 rub.
Preservation of the old piping (siphon), with the replacement of only the drain grate with a new one	150 rub.
Dismantling the old cast iron piping	400-600 rub.
Removing the plastic trim	For free
Cleaning non-factory enamel	from 400 to 800 rubles.
color scheme	400 rub.
Bathroom chip removal	150 rub.

Each product has its own service life, which ends sooner or later. Any thing once becomes unusable, and cast-iron bathtubs are no exception. Time and water have had on her Negative influence and lead to the destruction of the enamel coating.

Agree, changing the bath is expensive and time consuming. More practical solution- Restore plumbing with your own hands.

We will tell you how and with what you can paint cast iron bath, give recommendations on the choice of method, and also give step by step instructions for product updates.

The enamel coating of the bath becomes thinner over time, rust appears on it under the influence of water, and if measures are not taken in time, the process can become irreversible. The bottom can simply rust to holes, and then the bath can no longer be saved.

A bathtub covered with rust and limescale looks, to put it mildly, not aesthetically pleasing. Undoubtedly, putting a new bathtub will be the only right decision if you plan to do major renovation, change tiles and plumbing. However, if the repair is still far away, then buying a new bathtub will bring more problems than joy.

Modern cast-iron bathtubs are not cheap, you will also have to pay a rather large amount for delivery. Due to the large weight of the product, it is unlikely that it will be possible to dismantle the old one on your own. You need to either ask friends and neighbors, or hire people, which again costs.

Most likely, you will have to make repairs, even if it was not planned.

Image Gallery

If there are chips and cracks on the surface, they must be puttied, and then treated with sandpaper, after which the resulting dust must be removed again. This completes the preparation process, you can start staining.

Bath restoration with enamel

Enameling a cast iron bath is an old time-tested method that has been used for a very long time. But one should distinguish between professional enameling, which the bath is subjected to during the production process, and home enamel painting.

In the first case, professional compositions are used that require pre-heating of cast iron to a certain temperature. It is impossible, and not necessary, to paint a cast-iron bath in this way at home, since today there are easy-to-use and inexpensive enamel dyes for self-application.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Among the advantages of this method of painting are:

inexpensive cost;
lack of installation work;
Can be used on both cast iron and steel surfaces.

However, this method also has disadvantages:

the coating is quite thin and fragile, the enamel is very sensitive to household cleaners and shocks. Therefore, the bathroom will have to be handled very carefully so as not to inadvertently damage it;
the coating does not allow to eliminate severe defects: chips, dents, cracks;
over time, yellowness forms on the surface;
the enamel dries for a long time, the bath can not be used for about a week.

The service life of the coating is from 5 to 9 years. Although for those who are going to make repairs in the future and change the cast-iron bathtub to a new one, such a service life will certainly suit.

Overview of enamels for painting the bath

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Restoring a cast-iron bath with special enamels:

Bathtub coating with liquid acrylic:

Restoration of a bathtub with an acrylic liner:

Restoration is optimal way updates appearance baths, because it allows you to quickly, simply and inexpensively give new life old cast iron bath. Each method has its pros and cons, so it's up to you which one to use.

Do you have experience with a cast iron bathtub? Please share information with our readers, suggest your own way to solve the problem. You can leave comments in the form below.

The top layer of enamel in steel and cast iron bathtubs wears out over time. Unpleasant spots, cracks, chips, yellowness appear on the surface. Of course, you can throw away such a bathtub and install a new one instead, but restoration will extend the life of your plumbing and save the family budget.

Restoration. Methods

Restoration can be done different methods, among which:

application of two-component enamel. The two components are the hardener and the enamel itself. The mixture is applied to the surface like regular paint;
filling the bathtub with acrylic (glass). After grinding and thorough degreasing, the bathtub is filled with acrylic. After 2 days, the updated plumbing is completely ready for use;
bathtub-to-tub installation. This method consists in installing an acrylic liner that is completely identical old bath. The liner is attached with glue or foam and allows you to use the restored bathroom for a long time.

Bath preparation for enameling or acrylic application

Although these methods have their own characteristics, the preparation procedure is completely identical. Layer needs to be removed old enamel and achieve maximum adhesion of the future coating with cast iron / steel.

Find out what are, and also check out the types and selection tips from our new article.

It is necessary to prepare the following materials and fixtures:

cleaning powder;
solvent;
sandpaper on a fabric basis (for example, P24);
fast hardening polyester automotive putty;
polyethylene, newspapers and masking tape;
vacuum cleaner (or wide soft brush);
grinder + grinding wheels;
a clean, lint-free cloth;
building hair dryer;
screwdriver.

Step 1. We clean the entire surface of the bathtub with a brush and an abrasive agent (powder).

Step 2. We take sandpaper and clean the bath until there are risks from the abrasive. When grinding, it is not necessary to rinse off the cleaning agent. Instead of sandpaper, you can use an angle grinder with a special nozzle. This will greatly simplify the work and speed up the preparation process.

Step 3. After grinding, we wash off all the crumbs and soap film well. We pickle the bath using oxalic acid. Neutralize acid with baking soda.

Step 4. Filling the bath hot water to the sides. We wait about 10 minutes, open the drain so that the water is glass, and then wipe the bath with a dry cloth. You can warm the vessel with a building hair dryer. So the moisture will soon evaporate and the bath can be further prepared for restoration.

Step 5. We inspect the bath for large defects, potholes. We apply automotive putty, and after it dries, we grind with fine sandpaper. We remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner / soft brush, after which we carefully degrease the entire surface of the plumbing with a solvent and wipe it with lint-free wipes.

Step 6 Unscrew the shower hose. We wrap the spout and taps in polyethylene so that drops of water do not fall into the bath during operation.

Step 7. Armed with a screwdriver, we dismantle the grate and siphon under the bathtub. Under the drain hole we substitute the dishes into which drops of acrylic or enamel will flow.

Strapping scheme. 1 - overflow pipe; 2 - drain pipe; 3 - metal wedge support; 4 - floor siphon; 5- sewer socket; 6 - metal ground strip

Step 8. We seal with masking tape all the surfaces that are adjacent to the restored vessel. Paul, standing next to washing machine, cover the sink with polyethylene or old newspapers.

Let's start the restoration process.

Enamel application

You can enamel not only a bath, but also a shower tray made of steel and cast iron, a washbasin, kitchen sink. Both the entire surface of plumbing and individual sections, if necessary, are restored.

This method of restoration is short-lived, but quite economical. It will serve you for another couple of years, after which you will again have to think about staining or replacing it.

Note! The enamel has a pungent chemical odor, so all work can only be done in personal protective equipment for the respiratory system.

Step 1. Open the enamel and hardener. Pour them into a convenient bowl, knead with a mixer until smooth (see the exact proportions on the package).

Step 2. With a brush, we begin to apply enamel, making first horizontal and then vertical strokes. Carefully paint over the entire bath.

Advice! To keep the bristles from coming out of the brush, soak it in water for one day!

Step 3. Without waiting for the first layer to dry, apply the second one. Smudges are gently stretched with a brush.

Step 4. Paint over the bottom of the vessel again.

The bath will be ready for use in about 5 days. Until this point, it is advisable not to turn on the water and to prevent dirt from getting on the painted surfaces.

Bath enamel prices

Bath enamel

Restoration with glass or filling bath

Such a two-component mixture is quite convenient in application, does not have a pungent odor and has increased strength characteristics. Glass spreads itself, a monolithic even film forms on the surface of the bath. At the same time, the stacryl does not dry too quickly, which means that work can be done without haste and fuss.

Step 1. Mix the stacryl with a mixer in a convenient bowl.

Step 2. Add stakryl from a common dish to a small glass and pour onto the top edge of the tub. As soon as the stream reaches the middle of the wall, we begin to move the glass around the perimeter, periodically pouring the mixture into the glass.

Step 3 We repeat the process, starting to pour from the middle of the walls. It is not worth saving the mixture, the excess will merge into a container under the hole, and the coating will turn out to be even and smooth.

If bubbles form on the surface, they can be smoothed out with a plastic spatula or brush.

The polymerization process takes up to 4 days. Exact instructions for proportions and drying times are indicated on the packaging of glass.

When the surface has completely hardened, you can remove films, newspapers, adhesive tape, install a siphon (old or new, at the discretion of the owner) and use the bathroom restored with your own hands.

Video - Restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic using the "pouring" method

Bulk acrylic prices

"Bath to bath" or acrylic liner

If you do not want to carry out hygiene procedures for several days, using a basin or visiting a bath, then the method of inserting an acrylic liner will suit you perfectly. The process of self-restoration in this way takes no more than three hours, and you can use the bathroom the very next day.

In addition, the liner made of durable sanitary acrylic significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the bath, as a result, the water cools very slowly.

For the best result, it is important not only to choose the right size liner, but also to properly distribute the adhesive composition (foam and sealant from Henkel).

Step 1. Armed with a screwdriver and a grinder, we dismantle the strapping elements.

Step 2. Preparing the bath to install the liner. We clean the entire surface with sandpaper, a grinder, remove debris with a vacuum cleaner and degrease the surface. Wipe any drops of water dry. This measure is necessary to improve the adhesion of the adhesive foam to the plumbing.

Step 3. The liners are transported with a technological edge, which we carefully cut with a grinder before installation.

Step 4. After the edge is cut, insert the liner into the bath and mark the technological holes. To do this, draw circles with a marker, sticking your hand under the bathtub and circling the drain and overflow holes.

Step 5. According to the marking, we drill technological holes.

Step 6. Apply two-component foam and sealant. We insert a bottle of sealant into the gun and distribute it around the drain and overflow holes. Next, we take the foam, we introduce a special composition into the balloon with a syringe, which will not allow it to swell excessively. From bottom to top, we apply foam in stripes to the bottom, walls, sides of the vessel being restored.

Step 7. We insert the acrylic liner into the bath, gently press it with our hands, leveling it. Remove excess sealant and foam.

Step 8. We make the installation of the siphon (strapping).

Step 9. We fill the bath with water so that the foam, while solidifying, does not force out the light liner. The next day, you can drain the water and use the updated bathroom.

In your free time, you can install a decorative screen under the restored bath, as well as protective bumpers on the edges that come into contact with the walls.

Before starting hygiene procedures, do not forget to remove the protective film from the insert.

Video - Installing an acrylic liner. Do-it-yourself bath restoration

How to repair chips or small restoration of damage to the bath

Sometimes small chips, cracks from fallen heavy objects, scratches appear on the surface. And in this case, there is no need to make a complete restoration, it is enough to carry out minor repairs in the proper sequence.

Previously, such defects were eliminated by mixing glue with tooth powder or applying epoxy to the chip and sprinkling it with porcelain dust. But such methods are extremely unreliable, and it is better to refuse them.

Step one. Ready for repair. To begin with, we apply a rust converter to the chip, wait, wash off the composition with water. Then we clean the chip with powder or dishwashing liquid. Rinse with water and wipe dry.

Step two. Using acetone or another solvent, degrease the defective area. Dry and warm the surface with a hair dryer.

Step three. Using automotive putty, we coat the chip. We wait for drying and we polish with sandpaper.

Step four. We cover the puttied place with two-component acrylic or automotive enamel.

Also, for restoration, you can use a ready-made bath repair kit, which includes acrylic paint, hardener, several sheets of sandpaper, epoxy putty, polish and detailed instructions. The approximate cost of such a kit is from 900 to 1300 rubles.

Video - Repair of chips and even through holes in a metal bath

A cast iron bath is fundamental, strong and durable. Unfortunately, the service life of the enamel coating is much less than the bath itself as a whole. Replacing such monolithic equipment is associated with many problems, so often the owners decide to update the cast-iron bath. This process allows you to repair the damaged enamel coating and return the bath to its former attractive appearance.

Consider the methods and technologies used for the restoration of bathtubs.

Restoration of cast-iron baths by applying a new enamel coating allows you to do the work yourself, since this does not require special skills and experience. In addition to the possibility of self-restoration, the use of enamel compositions has the following advantages:

The cheapest option for updating coverage.
Suitable for steel and cast iron products.
Dismantling of drain and overflow is not required.

The disadvantages of this method include the toxicity of the compounds: it is recommended to work in a respirator. Re-enamelling has a short service life - about 5 years, while the coating is sensitive to impacts and prone to yellowing. In addition, the paint is not able to fill large shells or chipped old enamel.

Note! Enamels for baths are available in two types. The composition for professional use has a liquid consistency and is applied in 3-5 layers. Enamels for domestic use are thicker and applied in two layers, they are suitable for self-application at home.

The set for restoration by applying a new enamel includes two products: a primer and enamel with a hardener. All components are supplied in separate containers, the capacity of which is calculated for the repair of one bathtub.

In fact, enameling an old bathtub is just painting. special composition. The procedure and technology for performing enamel restoration is as follows.

Preparation

In order for the paint to have sufficient adhesion with the old coating, the inner surface of the bath is cleaned with fine sandpaper. This roughens the surface and at the same time removes dirt and body fat. The dust formed during the grinding process is removed from the bowl with a vacuum cleaner. At the same time, it is recommended to leave the body of the vacuum cleaner with the motor behind the door so that the outflow of air does not raise dust.

Advice! After grinding the bath and removing debris, a break is made for 20–30 minutes so that the dust particles finally settle, after which the bath is washed with water and wiped dry with a napkin.

After the dust settles, the bath is rinsed with water.

Padding

The next step is to apply a primer. Before this masking tape, the drain and overflow holes are carefully pasted over, and the lining along the edge of the bath is also protected.

Then a hardener is added to the mixed primer and the composition is thoroughly mixed.

Note! At room temperature, the life of the primer mixed with the hardener is 45 minutes, during which time you need to have time to completely prime the bath.

Part of the primer is poured onto the bottom of the bath, after which it is rolled evenly over the entire bowl with a roller. When developing the poured composition, more is poured. The primer is applied in a thin layer so that there are no streaks and gaps. If necessary, while the primer is mobile, you can go through the second pass. Upon completion of priming, the protective masking tape is immediately removed so that it does not stick.

To paint the bath with enamel, they start after 12-24 hours (depending on the air temperature and the manufacturer's recommendations).

Before applying the enamel coating, the following activities are carried out:

The primed surface is polished with fine sandpaper.
Grinding dust is removed.
The bath is washed with water and wiped dry with a rag.
Drain holes and edges of the cladding are sealed with adhesive tape.

The enamel is then mixed with a hardener. The pot life of the composition is also 45 minutes. Painting is carried out according to a similar scheme: the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the bath, after which it is rolled out with a roller over the entire surface in a thin layer, without gaps and sagging. After staining, the protective tape is immediately removed.

You can use the updated bathroom no earlier than indicated by the manufacturer (from 3 to 7 days). If you use the bath before the specified period, this will negatively affect the quality and strength of the enamel layer. After the enamel has dried, the bathtub is wiped with a soft, soapy cloth, and then washed with water.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

Restoration of a cast-iron bath using liquid acrylic is sometimes called the “filling” method, according to the technology of applying the material. The advantages of this option include:

Acrylic forms a thick, even and durable surface that hides any defects of the old bath well.
No smell during work.
The resistance of the coating to mechanical stress (within reason) and chemical cleaners.
The surface is smooth and pleasant to the touch, easy to clean.
Duration of operation - 10 years or more.

Of the disadvantages of restoring a bathtub by the bulk method, they note the high cost of high-quality material, a long drying period (at least 72 hours), the need to protect the coating from dust during the drying process. Despite the apparent simplicity of application, it is recommended to entrust this renewal method to professionals, since without proper experience, the coating can be damaged.

Preparation

Stages of preparation:

Note! If the siphon is not removed during the pouring of acrylic, the overflow is wrapped with adhesive tape, and the drain hole is closed with a plastic cup with a sealant applied to the bottom. If the siphon has been removed, a cut-off height is placed under the drain hole. plastic bottle or another container into which acrylic will drain.

Preparation and application of acrylic

When all preparatory work carried out, the acrylic base is mixed with a hardener. Mixing is recommended to be done manually, with a wooden spatula or other convenient fixture. The mixture is thoroughly mixed, then a break is made for 15 minutes to activate the properties of the hardener, after which the composition is thoroughly mixed again. If you want to get a color coating, a special color is introduced into the composition.

Advice! While the prepared acrylic mixture is settling, the bathtub is wiped with a dry rag to exclude even the smallest drops of water on the surface.

The order of filling is as follows:

The finished mixture is collected in a small container and gradually poured along the edges of the bath. You should start from the far corner.
Slowly draining, the composition will evenly cover all the walls of the bath.
At the bottom of the bowl, you should get the thickest layer - about 5 mm. A spatula is used to evenly distribute the mixture along the bottom and walls.
When the mixture is evenly distributed, use a flashlight to check that there are no gaps.
The final touch is the removal of drips from the edge of the bath.

After 2 days, protective films and adhesive tape are removed, a siphon is installed (if it was dismantled). The cup that closes the drain is simply crushed and carefully removed from the hole. You can use the bathroom no earlier than 72 hours after the completion of the acrylic pouring.

Repair with acrylic liner

Another way to repair an old coating is to insert an acrylic liner. This method is carried out by professionals and involves the purchase of a thin acrylic insert that matches the size of the tub in shape. The advantages of this option are:

Quick work: about 2 hours.
You can use the bathroom after 24 hours.
The acrylic insert is perfectly smooth and even, does not turn yellow during operation, and is easy to clean.
Complete concealment of any defects, including those on the sides of the bathtub.
At correct installation The service life of a new bathtub is up to 15 years.

The disadvantages of using acrylic inserts include the exactingness of installation and correct selection liner. If the work is done poorly, and the insert does not match the dimensions of the bath, then this design will not last long. In addition, the liner is very thin, not designed for high loads and impacts.

Note! To install the liner, you will need to release all the sides of the bath. If they are embedded in the lining, it will need to be dismantled.

First of all, the sides of the bathtub are freed from the lining.

After that it is removed old siphon. If a cast-iron sewer is installed, you will have to work as a grinder.

The siphon is removed so that the drain holes are free.

After dismantling, all construction debris is removed, the bathtub is washed and wiped dry.

The next step is to prepare the acrylic liner:

The grinder cuts off the technological edge.
Holes for drain and overflow are drilled with a crown.

Then a new siphon is assembled and installed, but the drain and overflow flanges are not screwed on, and silicone sealant is applied in a thick layer around the holes.

Immediately after that, strips are applied over the entire area of the bath polyurethane foam, which performs the function of glue and space filler between the liner and the old bathtub.

Then an insert is inserted, which is pressed along the sides and bottom. The drain and overflow grilles are screwed on.

Note! Upon completion of the installation, the bath is filled cold water to load the liner and it sticks well.

After filling the bathtub, the connection to the wall can be closed with plastic corner or a border glued to silicone. You can use the bathroom in a day.

We have reviewed various options repairing an old cast-iron bathtub. For a new bathtub to last a long time, you need to choose quality materials and take care of the updated coating.

Advice! If you need a bathroom remodeler, there is a very convenient service for the selection of specialists from. Just fill in the details of the order, the masters themselves will respond and you can choose with whom to cooperate. Each specialist in the system has a rating, reviews and examples of work that will help with the choice. Looks like a mini tender. Submitting an application is FREE and there is no obligation. Works in almost all cities of Russia.

If you are a master, then go to, register in the system and be able to take orders.

The need for enameling arises if the sanitary ware has lost its original appearance, the old enamel has peeled off, and the surface of the product is more like emery than a smooth surface. In this situation, enameling cast iron bathtubs will great solution question.

We enamel the bath

Before you update the enamel of a cast-iron bath, you need to give a clear assessment of the condition plumbing equipment:

If chips and large cracks appear on the surface, and the color turns from snow-white to gray, it is simply necessary to enamel the old cast-iron bath;
If the body of the bathtub has significant deformations that lead to equipment leakage, enameling the cast-iron bathtub in this case will no longer save. Will have to buy new plumbing.

Features of the process at the enterprise

It is much more cost-effective to enamel a cast-iron bathtub than to buy a new one. Especially if you intend to restore it yourself, without the help of professionals. However, coating a cast-iron bathtub with enamel is a difficult process and definitely requires preliminary preparation.

Do-it-yourself enameling of cast-iron bathtubs differs significantly from industrial technology, this must be taken into account:

In factories, plumbing fixtures are preheated to high temperatures;
The inner walls of the baths are sprayed with a special powder;
Under the action of high temperatures, this powder melts and turns into an enamel layer.

At home, this process cannot be repeated, but if your bath on the inside is not very badly damaged during operation, you can give it a chance for a second life. Enameling cast iron baths consists of several very important steps.

To begin with, the surface of the cast-iron product must be cleaned with a grinder with a special flat metal nozzle;
After complete withdrawal old enamel, the surface should be degreased (gasoline, acetone or alcohol can be used);
The degreasing agent is removed;
Enamel for a cast-iron bath is applied in an even layer on inner surface products. This layer in this embodiment will serve as a primer;
After the primer has completely dried, carefully apply the top coat of enamel on top.

Thanks to this technique, the thickness of the cast-iron bath enamel will be approximately five to six millimeters. With the right technology for applying the enamel composition, an updated bathtub can last another good ten years.

Choosing a material for covering the bath

So how to cover a cast-iron bath? Judging by the numerous reviews of people who carried out the restoration of sanitary equipment on their own, the most popular are the following types of enamels:

epoxy (applied with a brush or roller);
bulk enamel coating;
aerosol spray;
epoxy resin.

As practice shows, the most durable coating will be two-component enamel compositions, which include the first three types of material.

Enameling at home

The main stages of coating cast iron products with enamel composition in all three cases include:

Complete removal of the old coating from the surface of the product:
- using hard brushes apply aggressive cleaners that do not contain chlorine;
- using an abrasive stone, perform a scrupulous cleaning of the surface;
- soap scum and abrasive powder are thoroughly washed off;
All irregularities and rusty smudges are cleaned, after which the surface is degreased;
Plumbing is filled with water high temperature and leave for 15-20 minutes. Then the surface is very carefully wiped until completely dry;
The working composition is prepared for application by mixing the enamel with a hardener;
First, the surface of the plumbing is primed;
After the primer dries, apply an even layer of the enamel composition on the inner surface of the equipment.

The restoration process should not take more than three hours. Depending on the manufacturer, the enamel diluted with a hardener after some time becomes unusable (it hardens). This fact must be taken into account when carrying out work.

The process of restoring the coating of a sanitary ware may seem quite easy, but if all technological conditions are not met, the enamel coating will not last long. The details of the process include:

In order for the enamel layer to fit well, perfect adhesion to the surface is necessary. This is possible if the surface is completely degreased and freed from the remnants of the old layer of enamel;
To check the quality of degreasing, you can moisten the bath with water. If water collects in drops on its walls, it means that the degreasing was performed poorly;
If you apply the enamel coating with a roller or brush, make smooth movements so as not to leave streaks and smudges of enamel on the surface;
When applying the first layer of primer, only half of the enamel composition should go to the surface to be treated;
When diluting enamel with a hardener, keep the exact proportions and do not do anything offhand. The life of the plumbing will also depend on the quality of the coating.

If you want to use the old bathroom for many years to come, it is better to purchase two-component enamel compositions, as a rule, their coating is more durable and durable. But if you are not sure that you can sufficiently master such a tool as a brush, use aerosol types of enamel, they are very easy to apply from spray cans, penetrating even into the most inaccessible places.

Conclusion

Enameling a bath with your own hands is a feasible task that requires careful completion of all stages of restoration. This process will save serious amounts of money not only on the purchase of new plumbing equipment, but also on the dismantling of the old, as well as repairing the bathroom.