Sandblasting installation do-it-yourself drawings. Sandblasting machine: principle of operation, scope. Do-it-yourself sandblasting from a gas cylinder: step by step instructions

The principle of operation of the sandblaster

Types of compressors for sandblasters

Features and characteristics of the gun

Sandblaster personal protection

Sandblasting room

DIY sandblaster

As you can see, these are rather big products, both in terms of weight and cost. Is it possible to make a 1-2 liter sandblasting device from improvised materials, spending a minimum of money? This is quite possible, especially if you have a spray gun on hand.
In everyday life, they can be used to clean rusted metal tools and parts, elements metal gate before painting, removing dirt from the surfaces of house and garden paths, tiled or cemented.

Manufacturing process of a simple sandblaster

Work safety

Sandblasting (more precisely - abrasive blasting, see below) is the most affordable way cleaning heavily contaminated surfaces of parts made of hard materials. The productivity of sandblasting, or simply sandblasting, allows the same machine to be used for processing both very large and small parts of complex shape, see fig. right below. Sandblasting of silicate glass, incl. artistic, many times more productive than manual, gives more quality result, but at the same time much safer than chemical. This article provides information on how to make an abrasive blasting machine - sandblasting with your own hands and using it correctly in compliance with safety regulations: sandblasting, for all its merits, is still a very harmful production process.

Initial conditions

The principle of abrasive blasting is that abrasive particles are introduced into a strong jet of air or water-air suspension (see below). In the jet, they both accelerate to a speed of several hundred km / h, and twist. If such a jet is directed at a part, the impact of the abrasive on its surface will be comparable in strength to that of a hard abrasive tool, but much “softer”; the abrasive jet spreads over the treated surface and the treatment takes place practically without disturbing its configuration. Matting of hard materials by abrasive blasting is possible using abrasives of the same hardness as the material being processed and even somewhat less. Have you ever wondered how diamonds are sawn, cut and polished? Diamond powder. But in both cases, a large amount of abrasive dust is formed, which has a detrimental effect on literally everything, living and inanimate, natural and man-made. Therefore, a do-it-yourself sandblaster is not enough; it's not that hard after all, see below. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the basic safety rules for abrasive blasting. Secondly, decide for what purposes you need sandblasting and whether the additional equipment necessary to run it is available - an air compressor or a car or household washing machine. Thirdly, remember whether you have a garage or a workshop, either already equipped for sandblasting, or suitable for such a conversion. It is not difficult, but without it, using a sandblaster means ruining yourself. And finally, if you are considering air sandblasting, then see if there is room in the garage / workshop for installing a sandblasting chamber, see below.

Safety

Descriptions of the harmful effects of abrasive dust on everything generally occupy volumes. Normative documents regulating the procedure for the production of abrasive blasting and safety rules for them - too. Therefore, in order to understand the essence from which all this follows, we will learn in comparison. Moreover, you can now buy a pneumatic sandblasting gun in almost every tool store or make it yourself, see below.

Sandblasting can be carried out at dedicated production sites, in rooms and chambers specially equipped for this purpose, see below. Sandblasting can be pneumatic, or dry and hydro, or wet. Hydro-sandblasting is less dusty, but impregnates the treated surface with abrasive more strongly, see below. Abrasive powder during hydrosandblasting quickly loses quality and is most often used once; abrasive after air sandblasting in the chamber (see below) may be after the simplest cleaning reused.

The sandblaster's ammunition on the site is similar to the grated space wolf spacesuit from old science fiction, pos. 1 in fig. The similarity is enhanced by the fact that air is blown into the helmet with a cape-cape to prevent abrasive dust from entering it - its effect on the body through the skin is no less destructive than through the respiratory organs.

A sandblaster in a special room can work in a regular robe and a soft helmet, but also with a pressurization and cape, pos. 2. Hydro-sandblasting in a special room can be carried out using conventional PPE (pos. 3), as well as pneumatic sandblasting in a chamber - provided that it is not the main production process at this enterprise and is performed no more than 1.5-2 hours per shift. But the brave young people in pos. 4 and 5 just should have something to compare with.

Sandblasters in the workplace enjoy the following benefits (limits depending on local regulations):

• The rate on the tariff scale is 1-2 ranks higher than that of the "non-harmful".
• To her - surcharge for harmfulness of 25-100%
• After 5-20 years of work - life-long medical insurance at the expense of the employer or public services.
• Short shift, 4-6 hours.
• Increased annual paid leave, 30-45 calendar days.
• Possibility of retirement at 40-50 years old, subject to continuous experience in this specialty.
• Starting the length of service in the sandblasting for calculating a pension - a year for 1.5 or 2.

And this is in the current world, where in many utterly democratic states the minimum wage is legalized less than the subsistence minimum, a 6-day work week, 10-12 hour work day and paid vacation every 2-3 years for 10-15 days! And with all this of sandblasters-veterans in retirement live up to 60 units! Think.

Camera and room

It makes no sense to clutter up the article with information about the rules for placing and equipping sites and hangars for sandblasting - they are impossible to implement in home-garage conditions. If you have already decided to make a sandblasting machine, you have a choice of 2 options: for dry processing - a sandblasting chamber; for a workshop / garage with it and hydro-sandblasting - a room with supply and exhaust ventilation (PVV).

The sandblasting chamber is a dust-tight casing from the inside (pos. 1 in the figure); all connections and seals are rated for internal overpressure (item 2 top right). They work in the cell, putting their hands into rubber sleeves with gloves, pos. 2. The viewing glass and lampshades of the lighting fixtures of the chamber are made of silicate glass, which are replaceable. they quickly become cloudy from abrasive dust.

Dust-saturated air from the chamber exits through a 2-stage filter (pos. 4): first through a soft lamella-curtain (curtain made of technical fabric cut into strips, shown by the arrow in pos. 2) into the buffer chamber B, and from it through the filter material , providing cleaning not lower than level 5, and the holes in the casing (shown by the arrow in pos. 1) - outward. It is advisable to place the loading hatch on the side opposite to the wall with the filter, pos. 3. A mesh hearth is installed in the chamber to accommodate the workpieces; under the hearth there is a bin for collecting waste abrasive.

Note: air cleaning from abrasive dust not lower than the 5th is provided by a layer of lining synthetic winterizer from 25 cm, counting to the nearest outlet. The thickness of the filter layer between the blank walls of the filter is from 80 mm.

The room with a sandblasting chamber is equipped with a PVV with an exhaust fan. Extraction performance - at least 1.5 of the maximum performance of the compressor for sandblasting (see below). The hood must have a mesh-oil filter of at least 4 links. Each link is a frame with a frequent steel mesh (mesh - 1.5-3 mm), moistened with non-drying oil. The filter must be washed regularly and the washed nets moistened with oil.

Nozzles and abrasive for sandblasting

A lot depends on the nozzle of the sandblaster, through which the abrasive jet is ejected: the very nature of the processing process, its quality, the consumption of abrasive and air. And from the latter - the required compressor performance (see below), which is important in amateur conditions or for IP. Therefore, before you figure out how to do sandblasting yourself, you need to figure out how to deal with nozzles for it.

The first thing here - do not sandblast with steel nozzles: they lose the desired profiling even before the end of the part. On YouTube you can find descriptions of homemade sandblasting from ... propylene water pipes! It is inappropriate to quote local comments on them here, but they are quite fair. Nozzles for sandblasting are made of boron carbide (see figure on the right and below). Nozzles made from other hard materials are either very expensive or wear out quickly; In either case, the process is unprofitable.

Note: cheap Chinese nozzles made of porcelain and other silicate ceramics can be used if you use sandblasting for yourself occasionally. But - not for glass matting, it is impregnated (see below) with the material of a rapidly “burning” nozzle.

The second is that the abrasive jet is much stronger than with manual or machining, impregnates the surface of the part with abrasive microparticles. Quite simply - drives them there. Microimpregnation with an abrasive can be somewhat useful - the paint adheres better to the impregnated surface and adheres to it more firmly. But the same bare surface loses its resistance to chemical influences and pollution. The way to reduce the impregnation to an acceptable level is to use an abrasive equal to or less than the hardness of the material. Coal-slag powder (see below) can also be used to remove a pattern or an inscription on a mirror from sandblasting, but it is worth wiping it 2-3 times with detergent, and unremovable dirt will appear on the pattern.

Ordinary river and ravine sand is absolutely unsuitable for abrasive blasting: clay impurities in it impregnate the treated surface until the part is completely unusable. Non-critical parts of the product (auto wheels, underbody, etc.) are treated with coal-slag powder; it requires a compressor of lower capacity. Although the abrasive consumption is higher, it is much cheaper, see fig. The bodies of used cars for painting are treated with sifted mountain quartz sand, and glass and especially important products (for example, restored valuable retro cars) are treated with quartz quarry, cleaned and carefully fractionated. Fractions from 0.05 (artistic glass matting) to 0.2 mm (cleaning of caked dirt).

Homemade nozzles

The nozzle for sandblasting is not cheap, but wears out pretty quickly. "China" is suitable only to peel off the caked dirt before finishing, but it takes a dense film of hydroxide on metals already poorly. However, a hollow cylindrical sleeve suitable sizes from boron carbide can be bought much cheaper than a profiled nozzle from it. But is it possible to process material at home, which, in theory, is taken only by diamond?

Sandblasting nozzle profiles are simple. Straight lines (pos. 1 in the figure) are used for preliminary cleaning of surfaces and in general in most cases. A bell at the nozzle inlet is necessary - without it, the jet will be weak and will only “eat” the nozzle and dust, and not clean the part. Venturi nozzles, giving a strong, wide, uniform jet (pos. 2), are set for finishing critical surfaces; consumption of abrasive and air through the Venturi nozzle approx. twice as much as through a straight line. Tapered nozzles (pos. 3) are used for stencil matting glass: a jet from other nozzles can eat through the stencil to holes, and the whole work will be ruined.

You can convert a round boron carbide bushing into a sandblasting nozzle liner using conical or cylindrical-conical grinding heads (cutters) of the same material, pos. 4. You will only have to grind a steel clip with a thread. Straight nozzle inserts (keys 5 and 6) can be made on a tabletop drilling machine, turning the bell in the bushing by 30-45 degrees with a cutter. To convert it, or an inexpensive straight nozzle into a tapering one (pos. 7-9), you will need a lathe: the cone is mounted in the tailstock like a chuck with a drill, and the workpiece is in the spindle. The feed in both cases is the most delicate manual: you do not make holes in the blank, but grind the fragile fragile! Do not pour the emulsion in any case!

Types of sandblasters

A homemade sandblaster can be made according to one of the following. schemes:

1. Pneumatic injection gravity - the abrasive is fed into the air jet under the action of gravity. It is necessary to make or buy only a nozzle and, possibly, a pulsator, but the abrasive consumption is huge, the operating mode is unstable. In industry, it is used for stripping rough products from a dense coating, for example. mine trolleys or blast furnace heads. Used in primitive sandblasting guns;
2. Pneumatic gravity ejection - also used mainly in industry, but for finishing with a minimum consumption of abrasive, and in medium-level sandblasting guns;
3. Pneumo-injection supercharged - the most common type. It is carried out in the form of a stationary installation or a mini-pneumatic gun;
4. Hydroejection - the safest and most harmless. The compressor is not needed, it works from a car or household sink for external surfaces. In garage conditions, it is applicable without a camera. Restriction on use - the treated surface should be slightly sensitive to moisture.

Gravity Injection

The advantage of a pneumatic injection apparatus is that abrasive can be loaded into its hopper without interrupting production process. If the production is such that cubes of abrasive are consumed per shift, this often decides the issue of its profitability. Also an important advantage is the expensive wear parts in the unit, the entire nozzle and sand seal; the latter in amateur conditions can be replaced by a plug valve (like a samovar tap).

The device of the gravity injection sandblasting machine is shown on the left in the figure, and the drawings of the nozzles to it on the right are in the same place:

The nozzle at the top right only seems to be tapering, but it works like a Venturi nozzle: by changing the gaskets 5, it is possible to change the spray angle of the jet within certain limits. The use of such a sandblaster requires a fairly high qualification: the operating mode is set by an inlet valve that lets air into the bunker (in Fig. Drain valve 13) and a sand gate, and the adjustments are interconnected.

Sandblasting with pulsation

To reduce abrasive consumption and speed up the cleaning of very heavily and densely contaminated surfaces at the cost of increased nozzle wear, the transfer of gravity sandblasting to a pulsating mode allows. To do this, a pulsator insert is included in the break in the air hose, see fig. on right. The pulsator tubes are connected by a flexible thin hose, which plays the role of a resonator tube: by changing its length, the frequency and strength of the pulsations are adjusted.

Gravity ejection

In an ejection gravitational abrasive blasting machine, the abrasive is poured into a dispenser equipped with a non-return air valve, and from it it is sucked through the abrasive-air pipe into the working body with a strong air stream. The nozzle of such an installation is only Venturi, precisely profiled along curvilinear generatrices; the working body is an air ejector of a rather complex design.

The device and drawings of the ejector of the gravity ejection sandblasting installation are given in Fig.:

It is easier to use such a device than the previous one: the abrasive feed is set once for this type of work by the shutter, and the processing mode, if necessary, is promptly regulated by the air supply. Installations of this type are used for particularly demanding work, for example, abrasive blast polishing of turbine blades and jet engine compressors.

Supercharged Sandblasters

Sandblasters with pressurization are the easiest to operate, allow the use of nozzles of any profile and give sufficient surface quality in most cases (up to SA3). Therefore, both home-made sandblasts and industrial designs of low productivity for individual use are most often made according to the supercharged scheme.

Expensive manual sandblasting guns are made with a lower boost (on the left in the figure); the sand-air mixture enters the mixer. The consumption of abrasive and air is minimal, and a conventional ball valve can be used in the dispenser; it wears out pretty quickly, but in this design it never jams. This tool is most suitable for fine work: glass art, abrasive blast polishing. The disadvantage is the need to use a profiled boron carbide insert, which wears out as quickly as the nozzle.

In stationary pressurized injection sandblasting machines, the pressurization air is supplied to the hopper with abrasive, on the right in fig. The control of the apparatus is simpler than the gravitational one: after the initial setting (see above), the operational adjustment of the supply of air and abrasive as the latter is consumed is required only at the end, when the very remains from the bunker “get”. However, after additional loading of the abrasive, at which pressure is released from the hopper, the installation takes up to 20 minutes, and the hopper itself is more complicated and expensive, because. must be sealed. The ball sand valve in a continuous jet of abrasive often jams and the profiled liner of the mixer becomes unusable very quickly, therefore the mixer dispenser is made with an oblique feed and a damper valve, the inset in the center in fig. In amateur conditions, the mixer can be assembled on the basis of a 120-degree water outlet, and a plug tap can be used instead of a damper valve, see above.

The walls of the hopper are gradually worn away by abrasive, so the hopper must be equipped with a pressure relief valve with a safety valve, and the entire installation is regularly inspected. The relief valve must be open during operation. It closes only during the initial supply of pressure to the hopper and additional loading of the abrasive, because. pressure surge when the loading valve slams shut safety valve may rip out altogether.

Note: normal pressure air for the operation of all pneumatic sandblasting installations - 4.2-6 bar. If you come across a description of sandblasting for 2-3 "atmospheres", do not believe your eyes. This is a toy that is harmful to health, unsuitable for serious work.

Homemade Tricks

The sandblasting machine is technically simple in general, but due to the difficult working conditions - under considerable pressure, in an aggressive environment - its design and manufacture is a rather difficult task. The difficulties that arise in this case are sometimes bypassed by home-made amateurs in rather ingenious ways. That's why, after all, they are craftsmen.

Bunker from a balloon

Abrasive consumption for all types of sandblasting, except for artistic polishing, is very high. A domestic gas cylinder or, say, a car receiver, these are already vessels of a sufficiently large capacity, designed to work under pressure and are almost not subject to operational wear. It is easier to insert a simple tip with a nozzle into the sandblasting chamber, and it is easier to operate it with thick rubber gloves than with a gun. Therefore, many amateurs make sandblasting with an abrasive hopper from a gas cylinder.

However, if you simply convert the cylinder into a pressurized sandblasting bunker (item 1 in the figure), then an unpleasant phenomenon is immediately detected in the work: the powder in the bunker is still half or a third, and the installation begins to snort and spit clouds of dust instead of do your thing. The reason is the suction of air through the abrasive in the hopper, pos. 2. You can avoid it by quickly adjusting the boost, but this is no longer work, but only one thing. Therefore, it is better not to be too lazy right away, cut off the top of the cylinder (which will now be the bottom of the hopper) and instead weld on a cone-seal of galvanized abrasive from 0.6 mm, pos. 3. There will be no suction even with a primitive mixer from a straight water tee, pos. 3b.

Particularly successful is the discovery of the author of a mini-sandblaster with a bunker made of plastic bottle, pos. 4. Spiral ribs on the high neck of the bottle slightly, but twist the flow of sand even before it enters the mixer. This, equally primitive, sandblasting tool based on what seems to be an inexpensive universal working air gun is certainly suitable for very fine work.

Guns for sandblasting

It is convenient to clean large surfaces for painting with a sandblasting gun, for example. bodies of used cars, so they are bought up well, and amateurs adapt paint or universal working air guns for sandblasting. Most often - according to the gravitational injection scheme; less often - according to the scheme with a lower boost. Some are not too lazy to make analogues of industrial designs, see, for example, video:

Industrial samples of high-quality sandblasting guns are made according to the pneumoejection scheme - ejection sandblasting consumes a minimum of abrasive and acc. least dusty. Abrasive for them instead of a bunker is poured into a plastic bag without the slightest hole. The intake device is a piece of rigid pipe, tightly inserted into the supply end of the abrasive-air hose. The neck of the abrasive bag is tightly tied around the intake pipe - and Atmosphere pressure helps ejection well, squeezing the bag as the powder is used up.

The range of factory sandblasting guns (on the left in the figure) on sale is quite wide. On Alibaba, etc. sandblasting nozzles for working air guns are sold with might and main, in the center. If you take it, then for general work, choose ejection ones as the safest and least abrasive per square of the treated surface. For delicate and artistic work, a gun or bottom blow nozzle is more suitable, see above, but these are more expensive.

The same Chinese are selling with might and main and nozzles for sandblasting with a standard plumbing thread. An ejection abrasive blast nozzle for such a nozzle can be made from plumbing parts; joints must be sealed with FUM tape, on the right in fig. Serve such a sandblast for a short time, but it is suitable for occasional use over small areas.

However, in any case, do not forget - we are talking about your own health in the distant and not so distant future. Therefore, work only at a site that is at least 150 m away from residential buildings, poultry and livestock farms, cultural plantations, water pumping points, parks and forests. The nearest children's or sports institution, play or sports ground or reservoir should be at least 500 m. The influence of abrasive dust depends not only on its type and concentration, but also on the time of exposure. If it does not exceed 2-3 hours a day in portions of 15-20 minutes with breaks of 5-10 minutes, then on the site it is possible to do without full ammunition, but lightweight is still needed:

1. A padded, inflated helmet with a drape, or better, a gas mask and a cape with a gorget to protect the neck and shoulders, as used by construction workers and concrete workers;
2. One-piece jumpsuit made of dustproof fabric or a robe made of trousers with a belt and a jacket with a hem with a tight elastic band;
3. Cuffs of sleeves and legs - with rubber cuffs with a width of 7 cm;
4. Ankle boots (necessarily under loose trousers!).

Note: when sandblasting irregularly for no more than 20 minutes a day, for respiratory protection, you can use a helmet with a cape without pressurization and a petal respirator.

Hydro sandblasting

Hydro-sandblasting can be done regularly in normal garage or site conditions, using normal PPE as well. The bodies of old cars after cleaning with hydrosandblasting are quite suitable for painting; removal of the site or workshop from the above objects - from 50 m. Hydrosandblasting is activated without a compressor from a portable car wash or a household "sprinkler" for windows and shop windows. Therefore, special attention should be paid to hydrosandblasting.

The scheme of the device of a hydrosandblasting plant driven by a portable washing machine is given on the left in the figure:

Drawing of the simplest nozzle from the details of the water supply for hydrosandblasting - on the right; inset - her appearance. The principle of operation is ejection. However, such a nozzle works with some sinks, but not with others, and the adjustment limits for the jet density and abrasive consumption and with a suitable drive are insufficient. The reason is the oblique concentrated supply of the abrasive-air mixture to the ejector.

Works stably with any car and household washing installations nozzle with coaxial supply of water and abrasive-air mixture. For example, the nozzle, the drawings of which are given in the figure, was originally developed for the Körcher car wash. But it is also suitable for any other threaded G1 / 4 standard tip. And if the standard fit is different, then it is enough to make a connecting socket for it (see pos. 1).

Note: boron carbide nozzle insert (pos. 4) - ready-made purchase. Can be replaced by another, direct or venturi; in this case, the diameter of its constriction ("neck" of the Venturi nozzle is 4.5-6 mm).

How to make a hydro-sandblast nozzle for a portable car wash, see also the video:

And more about Chinese nozzles

If you are an IP resp. profile or generally work with sandblasting regularly for a fee, then the best choice for you there will be a purchase of a sandblasting gun: you probably already have a compressor for painting and other production needs, and the consumption of abrasive, which also costs money, is minimal. In addition, unlike industrial sandblasters, for which there is no shortage of compressed air in production, and homemade products, there are samples of working pneumatic guns for a pressure of 2.5-3 bar, i.e. they can be used from a paint compressor. This is explained by the high accuracy of manufacturing profiled parts along curvilinear generatrices.

However, even in the most “cool” sandblasting gun, the nozzle wears out sometime, and pretty soon from regular use. Buy branded? Take out half the price of a new pistol and put it in. General marketing policy. And here is the time to remember the "Chinese": the ratio of their service life to that of the originals is greater than the ratio of the price of those to the "Chinese". That is, although “China” will have to be changed more often, in general, the use of an “alternative” instead of a worn-out “company” will not be so expensive.

One problem arises here: the landing of Chinese nozzles does not coincide with that of the “company”, and the Chinese do not make nozzles “under the company”, because. each manufacturer of originals has its own configuration and dimensions of the nozzle seat. For the same marketing reasons, of course.

But - for a tricky nut there is always a bolt with a shaped thread. An adapter of 2-3 parts, for the manufacture of which a conventional lathe is enough, will allow you to adapt any Chinese nozzle to any branded sandblasting gun. For an example in fig. - the device and dimensions of the adapter for Chinese nozzles to the Matrix air gun.

If you are familiar with the principle of operation of the spray gun, it will not be so difficult to make a sandblaster with your own hands. But in order for the device to fully meet your requirements, you should initially decide on the purpose.

It should be noted that devices of this type can be made not only for home use, but also for industrial use. It all depends on what resources you put into it.

Apparatus types

If you are just getting started with such equipment, it is best to start with the simplest - a sandblasting gun.

In total, there are three types of such equipment:

• sandblasting guns;
• universal sandblasting chambers;
• pressure devices.

Whichever one you choose, you should choose a powerful compressor for each device. The factory assembled compressor gives power up to 500 liters per minute. Thus, the device will be suitable for any use: both at home and for industrial use.

Required Components

To assemble a sandblasting unit with your own hands, you need to have the following components:

• a source for supplying pressurized air;
• capacity for uninterrupted supply of abrasive material;
• nozzle;
• hose;
• gun.

When choosing a nozzle for a sandblasting unit, pay special attention to the material of manufacture. It is best to choose models made of tungsten carbide. Instances made of cast iron or plastic are short-lived.

Assembly diagram

Consider the simplest option for assembling a sandblaster. The schema looks something like this:

As for the container, in this case you can use a simple plastic bottle for drinking water. But if you want to use such equipment more than once, then it is better to choose a more reliable container.

The assembly scheme is almost identical to the spray gun. The only difference is that instead of a coloring pigment, there is sand in the tank. That is why the nozzle must be made of durable durable material.

Based on the foregoing, you can use almost any drawing to assemble a sandblasting machine like a spray gun. When assembling the machine, only the best quality components should be selected. The productivity of the equipment and the quality of the operations performed depend on this.

Capacity. If a plastic container is not suitable, a used metal can can be used. In this case, please note that the cylinder must be well cleaned of residues. When choosing a metal cylinder, take into account that you need to perform threading operations, surface welding.

Nozzle. This is the most important part of the entire sandblasting unit. And if you can still save on capacity, then you should not do this when choosing a nozzle. You can make a nozzle with your own hands. To do this, you need to take a metal rod of the required diameter and bore it from the inside. The process is quite laborious, so it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made one.

It is best to choose this component from ceramics. These types of nozzles are used in dentistry. You can also choose a nozzle made of steel. They do not wear out as intensively as ordinary metal or plastic.

Hose. For a sandblasting unit, only a reinforced hose should be selected. This is due to the fact that the work is done only under high pressure. The recommended inner diameter is 14 mm. The length of such a hose must be at least 2 meters.

In addition, before proceeding with the assembly, you need to have the following materials on hand:

• fum tape;
• cranes;
• hose clamp;
• pipe adapters;
• hose fittings.

Conventionally, the assembly of the device with your own hands can be painted into the following stages:

• in a cylinder or any other container of sand, 2 holes are made along the diameter of the pipe;
• a pipe is attached to the bottom of the tank for sand runoff;
• cranes are mounted on the pipe outlets, the joints are wound with fum-tape;
• fittings are placed on the free ends of the tee, a hose is attached to one of them;
• the first outlet on the tee is mounted for air supply, the second for sand.

Please note that when assembling the unit with your own hands, all parts must be sealed. Otherwise, the equipment will not perform its functions efficiently.

Fulfilling all the requirements correctly, then the output should be a high-quality sandblasting unit. If you use a metal container for work, then a do-it-yourself device may look something like this:

The main thing is that before you start work, you need to choose the right and maximum clear drawing. Having prepared all the necessary components and correctly assembled them according to the diagram with your own hands, in the end, you can get sandblasting equipment suitable for home and even industrial use.

Pay attention to safety precautions when working with sandblasting. If work is carried out outdoors, be sure to use personal protective equipment. Following all the recommendations will allow you to do the job quickly, efficiently and safely.

It makes it easy to clean old paint, rust and other types of pollution. With the help of sandblasting, you can quickly and efficiently clean the most hard-to-reach places. You can also engrave on glass and other materials with such a device.

As a basis for homemade, the author used a small compressor. Perhaps this is the most expensive part of the homemade product, which will cost about 3,500 rubles. As for the sand, the device works perfectly on the most ordinary building sand, which must be sifted through a fine sieve before filling. If there is no desire to mess with sand, then you can buy ready-made, especially for this purpose.

Of course, all work is carried out either in a special room or in the open air. You also need to take care of protective equipment. It is necessary to protect the respiratory system from dust, you will also need goggles or a mask so that sand does not get into your eyes. When working, there should be no open areas of the skin, as the beating grains of sand can stick into the code or leave a wound.

In the photo you can see what a homemade product looks like. As you can see, an ordinary bottle was used as a filling container. A homemade product looks like a spray gun.

Materials and tools for homemade:
- small compressor:
- a plastic bottle with a volume of 1.5-2 liters;
- water ball valve;
- lathe;
- ceramic nozzle (used in dental sandblasting machines);
- air hose, spanners and other elements.

Step one. How the device works
How homemade works can be seen in the photo. As soon as the master pulls the trigger, pressurized air enters the gun channel, and then enters the bottle, creating high pressure in it. The bottle contains a special insert, thanks to which the sand is mixed with air. A special valve is provided to control the flow of the air-sand mixture. Well, then the mixture passes through a ceramic nozzle. Here, in fact, this sandblast works according to this principle, and many others.

You should also pay attention to the mixer, a bottle cap is screwed to it with a threaded washer. The author tried to make such a cork out of steel, but it didn’t work out, as a result, it will be necessary to change worn parts from time to time.

Step three. Sandblaster operation
The peculiarity of this device is that it can be used to engrave glass. To do this, the glass must first be sealed with a self-adhesive film. Next, you will need to cut out the pattern, in other things, it can be cut out on the film before gluing. Well, then process the glass with sandblasting. What happened in the end, you can see in the photo.

The only drawback of homemade products is that you often need to pour air into the bottle, but homemade products are not intended for work on an industrial scale. You also need to change worn out elements from time to time. By the way, the sand that is filled into the device can be reused, but, of course, it will need to be sieved.