Is it possible to cover plants with moss for the winter. How to cover a thuja for the winter - we learn together! Uses for fallen leaves

It's getting colder outside, people are putting on warm jackets. In the garden, it's time to protect plants from frost! Why is it important to know how to properly protect plants from the cold? In this article, we will tell you which plants need to be protected from frost, and when it is best to do so that they can cope well with cold winds and low temperatures. In the photo you can see how the winter coating can look aesthetically pleasing and even, to some extent, provide a decorative effect!

Covering plants for the winter allows the most sensitive species of trees and shrubs to overwinter. Sometimes you can find opinions that shelter from frost is an unnecessary procedure, and sometimes even harmful. This assumption is probably due to mistakes that can be made in the course of protecting plants from frost with unsuitable materials or if work is carried out at the wrong time. When and how to cover plants for the winter correctly?

In winter, the frozen ground does not allow the plant to consume enough water, while the cold wind increases the effect of cold, as a result, the plant is subject to freezing and drying out. This is especially dangerous for evergreen crops. To protect against frost, it is very important to know at what temperature it is optimal to cover the plants, and for which crops which type of cover is best. Let's consider these questions in more detail.

What plants require frost protection?

• evergreens, such as rhododendron, Japanese cherry, laurel;
• roses, for which you should make a mound of soil or compost (while trying to avoid peat);
• magnolias, honeysuckle, garden hydrangeas are also subject to shelter;
• don't forget the grass, and especially the Japanese sedge.

How to protect ornamental grasses?

After ornamental grass they will bloom in autumn, and the first frosts will begin, it is worth considering how to ensure their wintering. Many species require additional shelter. It is worth noting that in the first year, almost all newly planted ornamental grasses require frost protection.

How to tie ornamental grasses?

As soon as we see that the stems and leaves of ornamental grasses begin to wither, we should begin to prepare them for the cold. It is best to choose a day with dry and sunny weather for this event, if possible. On such a day, grass leaves are easier to tie into bunches. If you are sure that the stems of ornamental grasses are dry, you can proceed to tying them. Some sheaves need to be tied in two or three places to form the correct bundle shape. Proper bunching is very important, because during windy weather and on frosty days some crops lose their leaves, as is often the case, for example, with the leaves of the giant Miscanthus.

In order to tie the leaves of ornamental grasses, it is best to use jute or packing twine (it can also be a simple cord). It is strong and holds the bundled stems well, which, under their own pressure on windy days, can break a weak knot.

The binding of ornamental grasses should be double, as in the photo. It is very important not to cut wilted leaves in the fall, as they provide extra protection from frost.

Bark, peat or spruce branches?

If frost persists for more than three days, it is advisable to protect ornamental grasses with bark mounds. It is important not to do this too early because the stems can become steamed and rot, which negatively affects their health and survival in winter.

Usually pine bark or dry horticultural peat is used. You should scatter them around the grass and form a small hill that reliably protects the root system.

Mound of pine bark at grass roots

Branches and agrofibre

Evergreen ornamental grasses (for example, Japanese sedge or fescue) should additionally be covered with spruce branches for the winter, that is, with branches coniferous trees or agrofibre. For shelter, only suitable white agrofibre can be used. Before using this material, evergreen grasses must be tied, but not too tightly, then covered with agrofibre and tied again so that snow does not penetrate from above.

Straw

Another material that will help protect ornamental grasses for the winter is straw mats. Mats are placed around the sheaf and carefully tied. To protect against frost, it is worth avoiding the use of colorless film, bags or bags from coniferous bark!

Ornamental grasses, even tied in bunches, will beautifully decorate any garden. Sprinkled with snow, they create a mysterious atmosphere in the garden.

Plant protection in pots

Plants grown in pots also require protection in winter. Best of all, they hibernate in a bright, cool place at a temperature of 5 ° C. When it is not possible to move the pots into the room, you can bury them in the ground, preferably in a calm place. If this is not possible, at least very simple protection against low temperatures should be provided. Namely, it is necessary to make sure that the pots do not stand directly on a concrete or stone surface. To do this, you can put a layer of foam about 10 cm thick under them, which isolates the pots from concrete or stone. This arrangement will prevent freezing of the roots.

Overview of materials

Permeable materials should be used to shelter plants from frost. Film or other waterproof and airtight covering materials should not be used, as this will cause the plants to overheat, lose hardening, and then freeze. Lack of ventilation also leads to the development of fungal diseases, so you should take care of some air access.

For winter shelter, you can use:

• white agrofibre, 50 g/m² thick, with which the plant is wrapped two or three times;
• needles and spruce branches (branches) of coniferous trees;
• shading nets;
• straw mats;
• in some cases horticultural peat;
• leaves that fall from trees in autumn.

White agrofibre tied with decorative tape

Photo. Use of agrofibre and pine bark. We tie the whole bush with white agrofibre and tie it with a decorative ribbon, and warm the roots with a slide of pine bark.

Photo. Roses covered with straw

In winter, plants are at risk of losing a lot of water because they are unable to get enough water through the root system if the soil is heavily frozen. Therefore, it is desirable to perform mulching around the plants, thereby protecting them from freezing of the soil. You can make a mound of earth, compost or bark to a height of 20-30 cm right at the base of the bush.

Frost-sensitive perennials and small shrubs can be covered with spruce branches (coniferous branches). Here, too, you can add decorative elements to improve the aesthetic effect. Such compositions often become not only an effective measure of protection, but also a real decoration of a sleeping winter garden.

Evergreen hardwoods and conifers require shelter at a young age, especially from frosty, dry winds and the sun, which creates large temperature differences between day and night, which often occurs in February-March. To do this, you can use branches of coniferous trees, agrofibre, straw or corrugated cardboard.

A film or other material that is impervious to air is not suitable for coating, as it contributes to the development of fungal diseases.
Covering is carried out after the appearance of small frosts - in November - December, depending on the climatic zone.

Tall shrubs (such as magnolias) are less resistant to frost and require shelter, especially when young. Covering the entire bush more than 1 m in height is quite troublesome. Therefore, it is desirable to protect at least the base of the bush by 30 cm in height. In the event of freezing during a harsh winter, the upper part of the bush, the base with dormant buds will endure frost without damage and give new shoots that can quickly restore the bush. Suitable for this purpose:

• sawdust;
• bark;
• the soil;
• mulch (fallen leaves).

rose care

In order to cover roses for the winter, the best and most cheap way- this is the use of land that is raked into mounds, and then covered with branches, making a mound 20-30 cm high. When raking the mounds, care should be taken not to expose or damage the roots. Therefore, in the place where we take the earth for the mounds, it is recommended to scatter well-decomposed cattle manure, which in the spring we cover with earth taken from the mounds. But for the mounds themselves, you can’t use manure!

Good to know! Low rose bushes can be bent to the ground and a hill of earth can be poured on top to protect against frost.

To shelter roses on a trunk from frost, you need to tie the bowl and gently tilt it to the ground, then you should strengthen it with sticks so that it does not straighten. After that, the bowl (most sensitive to frost) is covered with a mound of earth, compost, bark or sawdust. The thickness of the mound should be about 20 cm. For a full guarantee, you can also cover the trunk.

Deadlines

When and at what temperature should plants be covered? The time when plants should be covered depends on the climate of a particular area, it comes when the first frosts begin, on average, this is mid-November. Plants should not be covered too early because winter shelter will raise the soil temperature, which can lead to further vegetative growth of the plants, delaying their entry into winter dormancy. In this case, the plants may die from rotting. Therefore, shelter should be done only when regular frosts have set in, and the soil has frozen to a depth of 3-4 cm.

Everything that is useful to us for work, for example, agrofibre, protective caps and other materials, should be prepared in advance so that everything is ready and we do not miss the right moment.

Many species and varieties of plants are not resistant to frost and require shelter. There are many ways to protect, it is only important to choose the most suitable one depending on the type of plantings. In addition to agrotextiles, other materials and raw materials available in the garden can also be used: straw, dry leaves, sawdust, softwood branches, straw mats and bark will be suitable for covering from the cold.

It is also important not to miss the timing of the onset of frosts, and at the same time not to cover the plantings too early so that they do not enter the growing season and do not rot. This should be done when the first frosts appear, and the topsoil freezes. In November, the weather sometimes plays tricks and, despite some cooler days, it can also surprise you with warm and sunny days. Therefore, it is important to wait until the temperature (during the day) is around -5 degrees for several days in a row.

The owners of plots with blackberry plantings, especially beginners, often face questions in the fall: should bushes be covered for the winter, and if so, when should this be done. This article is devoted to the answers to these questions. We will tell you about what materials are best for covering, when to cover and how to do it competently.

Things to take care of in the fall before shelter

In order for the blackberry to endure wintering more easily, before shelter it is necessary:

1. Continue to water the bushes after harvest until the onset of cold weather, if the weather is dry.
2. Thin out the shoots, cutting off those that have already yielded a crop, as they have served their time, as well as young branches. 6 to 8 branches are enough for 1 bush. The remaining branches are shortened by about 20 cm.
3. Weed the weeds, loosen the soil.
4. Fertilize with potash fertilizers without chlorine - this will facilitate wintering.
5. Sprinkle the soil with sunflower leaves or husks to protect the roots and retain moisture.
6. Remove the plant from the supports and gently press it to the ground. The closer to winter, the bushes will be more brittle, so you need to remove them earlier. If the plant is upright, you need to bend down gradually, weighting the top with some kind of load.

Important! To avoid the spread of diseases and the reproduction of pests, cuttings of blackberry bushes should be thrown into the fire.

When is the best time to start hiding?

Blackberry bushes freeze at a temperature of about -17 ° C, a sharp drop in temperature is especially dangerous, which can destroy the plant even at -10 ° C. Best time for shelter comes at a time when the temperature is constantly kept at -5 ° C, that is, usually at the end of October or at the beginning of November (the time period may vary depending on the region).
If you cover the bushes ahead of time, then under the influence of heat they will continue to grow, and in the absence of light and ventilation, the young shoots will rot and rot. Rotting of roots and ground shoots is promoted by condensate that forms under cover from excess heat and lack of air.

Important! High humidity is a companion of fungal diseases.

Thaws are dangerous, as the resulting moisture turns into ice during subsequent frosts, and the blackberry dies.

How to cover blackberries for the winter

For shelter, you can use improvised or purchased materials.

improvised materials

As improvised materials for shelter, suitable:

1. The soil- this type requires a lot of time, but gives a good effect. Of the minuses, one can name the difficulties with removing this type of shelter in the spring - the thorns can scratch the hands, and the remains of the soil on the tops of the bushes cause increased growth of side shoots.
2. Snow- in a snowy winter, it will reliably protect the plant, however, in the event of a thaw, it can be a dangerous source of excess moisture, which, when cold weather sets in, will freeze and damage the plant.
3. Vegetable tops- used dried and healthy, which is harvested in the process of harvesting vegetables.
4. hay and straw- both materials are easy to use, they are easy to remove in the spring. Of the minuses - such a shelter can attract mice for wintering, which will readily feast on blackberry bushes.
5. Fallen tree leaves- this species is characterized by low labor intensity, but here it is important not to cover with foliage from fruit and berry trees, since pest larvae can be transmitted with it.
6. corn leaves- this material is characterized by rigidity, therefore it can protect the shrub well, it also does not absorb water well. The leaves are dried after harvesting the corn or used naturally dried, laid in a thick layer. Make sure the leaves are healthy and undamaged.
7. Sawdust and shavings- it is not recommended to use due to the fact that they reduce the nitrogen content, acidify the soil, strongly absorb water, which then freezes into an ice block, and contribute to the reproduction of pests.
8. Peat- characterized by a high degree of moisture absorption, so it does not fit well.
9. Coniferous tree branches- a thick layer of this shelter allows the shrub to breathe, retains heat well, repels rodents and insect pests.
10. Sunflower, buckwheat, rice husks- the material is good because it does not absorb water well, but it will take a lot to cover it.

The positive side of using improvised materials is the absence of financial costs, the negative side is the impossibility of their use over large areas.

Did you know? In England, there is a legend that blackberries can only be harvested until October 11 - on this day the devil spits on them, and people who eat berries harvested after this date become unclean.

Synthetic materials

You can cover blackberries with synthetic materials purchased at the store:

1. Film- its thick layer will serve as a good shelter in a snowy winter, but can create problems if a thaw comes. In this case, a lot of moisture and heat form under it, which will lead to decay. Snowless winters pose a danger, in which case a greenhouse effect occurs, which is created on a frosty day by the sun and forms under the film high temperature. After sunset, a drop in temperature leads to frostbite. Alternatively, you can put paper under the film or sprinkle it with sawdust on top.
2. Ruberoid, pieces of old linoleum- ease of use of this type of shelter resists fragility during frosts.
3. Felt or synthetic winterizer- this species is suitable only for northern latitudes, where there are snowy and frosty winters, since during a thaw the material can pick up moisture, and the blackberry will rot.
4. Burlap - used as an additional covering material in conjunction with improvised means of shelter.
5. nonwoven fabric(spunbond, agrotex, lutrasil, agrospan) - the advantage of this type of material is good frost protection and the ability to pass air. It does not create a greenhouse effect, so you can cover it before the start of frost, and remove it long after it ends.
6. Styrofoam- protects well, but expensive and easily gnawed by mice.

Did you know? Styrofoam98% consists of air.

These types of shelter can protect large areas of planted berries, they can be used several times, but they require some financial investment.

How to hide

After graduation preparatory activities the blackberries are pressed as close as possible to the mulched soil, trying not to damage the fragile branches. If it is not possible to bend down the bushes, they are covered with plywood and slate boxes. So that the film or non-woven materials do not freeze to the plant, a layer of mulch from improvised materials is poured under them or a frame is built that will prevent the materials from coming into contact with branches and leaves.

The non-woven material can be black and white, the difference between which is only that White color better reflects the sun's rays and is suitable for snowless winters. It also happens in different densities: a material with a density of 100 g per 1 sq. m can be laid in 1 layer, 50 g per 1 sq. m - in 2 layers. It is often recommended to cover with 2 layers of a thinner version. When choosing the width of the material, you should stop at 1.6 m.

Important! There is no need to try to wrap the shrub in covering material, like in a diaper, the warmed soil gives off heat, and not the flooring, so try to cover more of the area around the plant.

The edges of the flooring must be pressed to the ground with something heavy (stones or sprinkled with earth) so that it does not blow away with the wind. It is recommended to throw a layer of snow on top of the flooring in order to retain more heat.

Do I need to cover frost-resistant varieties of blackberries

Frost resistance characterizes the ability of blackberries to withstand low temperatures. However, the fact that the plant survives does not mean that it will not suffer - in winters with little snow, the buds and shoot tips may freeze, as a result, the harvest will not be rich. Of the frost-resistant varieties, the most famous is Agave, which can withstand more than -20 ° C. But young branches of this variety can freeze in such a frost. Although new shoots will grow in their place in the spring, they will not produce a crop this year. Based on the foregoing, frost-resistant varieties of blackberries also need shelter, otherwise a weakened plant will not please you with berries.

So if you want to get good harvest blackberries, bushes for the winter must be covered, but this must be done correctly. For small plantings, improvised materials are suitable, for larger ones - synthetic (white agrofibre). However, do not cover too early, otherwise the plant will rot and die. Follow our recommendations, make the right shelter for blackberries for the winter, and you will definitely feel the difference.

Video: blackberries - how to properly cover

cover plants for the winter For reliable protection from wind and frost.

Under a layer of leaves that become wet and heavy in winter, the lawn can literally suffocate. It is better to rake the foliage under the trees and shrubs. Autumn foliage protects the soil and roots from freezing decorative perennials, as well as reliably protect young plantings of edelweiss.

Majority ornamental trees and shrubs normally tolerates the cold season. But evergreen deciduous, such as rhododendron, mahonia, as well as roses, hydrangeas, especially if they are planted in a hedge, protection is simply necessary.

Certainly, the best protection for plants in winter is a thick layer of snow. Camellia can be insulated by putting on a “coat” of burlap or agrospan, and ornamental shrubs, sensitive to cold, will successfully overwinter if wrapped with agrospan. Several pegs from the inside will support the structure so that it does not fall.

Negative temperatures are not the only source of danger for plants in winter. On clear frosty days, leaves and branches evaporate a lot of moisture. Icy northern and eastern winds dry up the soil, especially in the absence of snow cover. Frozen ground cannot give water to plants, and they dry up. Therefore, the roots need to be covered so that they are warm, and the branches should be protected from the sun.

Some of the ornamental grasses can tolerate cold and dryness, but in wet weather their roots rot. It is best to tie such plants in bunches so that rain or melt water can drain freely from them.

Lamascus grass, tied into bunches to protect the roots from dampness, resembles some mysterious creatures from a fairy tale.

Cold-resistant woody plants in pots and tubs can stay on the balcony or terrace all winter. Boxwood, yew, cherry laurel, euonymus (in warm regions), dwarf pine or spruce, juniper, cotoneaster (in more severe ones) will bloom with bright greens in this season that is poor in colors. Those plants that do not withstand the cold can be beautifully draped with reeds, spruce branches, hay or straw and additionally decorated with ribbons.

Remember that the containers in which the plants are located must be frost-resistant. And make sure that the earthy clod of the evergreens never dried up.

The reason for the death of conifers, including juniper, spruce, arborvitae, cypress, hemlock, and evergreen deciduous plants in winter, is most often not frost, as many people think, but drought. All plants evaporate moisture through their leaves, and evergreens evaporate it in winter, especially in winter. sunny days. If the moisture reserves from the soil are not replenished, the plant gradually dries out. Therefore, in autumn, especially dry, it is very important to water evergreen trees and shrubs more often not too much cold water. At the same time, water should seep into the ground gradually so that the plant does not drag into the soil.

The larger the autumn water reserves, the longer conifers and deciduous plants that do not drop foliage for the winter. Watering should be continued and winter period, if the ground is not covered with snow and is very dry, but only at positive air temperature. On open areas plants must be protected from the wind.

Among the large ornamental perennials that need protection in winter is gunnera dyer. The imposing gunnera dye grows on moist soils in shade or partial shade. In autumn, cut off the leaves and flower stalks, cover the plant with a thick layer of foliage and brushwood. It is also recommended to make a hut from slats or poles.

But Coulter's omnea, or California tree poppy, prefers dry and moisture-permeable soil, warmth and sun, therefore, in conditions cold winter the plant is dug up in autumn and transferred to a bright, dry and cool place where the temperature does not fall below 0 0 C.

The giant fennel, which grows up to three meters in height, also likes a warm and sunny place, so in winter it should also be covered with a thick layer of leaves.

Shelter of roses for hydrangeas for the winter can be not only reliable, but also beautiful. See how to make them and for thuja, what materials are best to use.

What plants need to be covered for the winter?

Let's deal with this issue first. The need for insulation depends on the region. In southern latitudes, almost all plants winter well. In the more northern - the following representatives of the dacha flora need shelters:

1. All roses. In short, the low ones will winter well under a wooden box, which is covered on top with a dense non-woven material, on which cellophane is thrown. In the spring, the film must be removed in time to ensure the ventilation of the plants. Tall roses can be covered with the same materials, but after building a frame for us.
2. Some ornamental shrubs. Insulate: Japanese quince, forsythia, large-leaved hydrangea. A hydrangea shelter for the winter is a cover made of dense lutrasil or spunbond, which you can sew with your own hands.
3. Bulb flowers planted this year. First, a layer of peat 5 cm thick is poured onto this place, in cooler regions where there are little snowy winters, a piece of dense spunbond folded in half is placed on top. It is fixed with small stones. But such insulation must be removed in time in the spring. At an older age, these plantings will not need such shelter for the winter, of course, if it is not the north of Russia.
4. In such areas with a problematic climate, it is also necessary to cover strawberries and strawberries., first - with a layer of peat, and on top with non-woven material, fixing it along the edges with stones, bricks.
5. Alpine plants. They are afraid not so much of frost as of soaking. So you need to hide alpine plants for the winter, having built high shelters in the form of a house, where there is a lot of air and good ventilation.
6. Rhododendrons. A frame made of U-shaped structures is placed above them, placing them crosswise over each bush. Spunbond, lutrasil or agrotex are laid on top medium density on which a polyethylene film is placed. Rhododendrons do not tolerate drought well, so you need to cover the plants when it rains or after watering, while alpine plants are warmed on dry ground.
7. Ephedra: juniper, spruce, conic, thuja. If conifers are 3 or less years old, then all these young plants need warming in winter. For them, you need to sew covers from non-woven material high density. It is more expedient to put on these shelters after a cold snap, when sleet falls, so that the needles do not dry out under the covers of these plants.
8. Clematis. They are removed from the support, placed on the facade foam, which is laid on the ground. A box is placed on top, covered in the same way as roses.
9. Trunks fruit trees so that mice and hares do not spoil them.
10. Perennial flowers. Compost or peat is sprinkled under them.
11. Raspberry. She is sheltered in cool regions. Raspberries are tied into bundles and bent. So that it does not straighten out, a stone, for example, a brick, is tied to the harness. It remains to throw a non-woven material of medium thickness on it.
12. Winter garlic. After the first frost, it is desirable to cover it with fallen leaves.

Now you know which plants need additional warming, you can make them yourself.

Shelter of roses for the winter

If it is climbing or those that grow close to each other, you can make a tunnel shelter.

To do this, take:

• bars;
• slats;
• plastic arcs;
• spunbond with a density of 60;
• polyethylene film;
• nails;
• stones.

Follow this action plan:

1. Cut the bars of the same size, drive them in the center on one straight line. Nail a long, strong rail on top of them. If there is not one, then attach several, placing one after the other. Put arcs on top.
2. Shelter of roses for the winter should be done in October. It is highly desirable that the soil under the bushes be dry. Therefore, if rains are expected at the end of September, then you need to cover the near-stem circle of plants with a film.
3. Some rose growers remove leaves from the stems so that they do not become a source of high humidity and fungal diseases.
4. If it gets noticeably colder, you need to sprinkle peat around the near-stem circle of roses. A double layer of non-woven covering material with a density of 60 is thrown onto the constructed tunnel shelter. If it is new, it will not let rain through.
5. If the density is not so high or the material is not new, then you need to put a film on top, but leave a space (20-30 cm from the ground) on the sides not closed, for better ventilation. It needs to be securely fixed.
6. Usually roses are covered for the winter, when the temperature crosses zero, drops to -2 ... -4 ° C, and hardened plants will endure a cold snap to -7 ° C. Therefore, many insulate them in November.

But you need to cut the park roses, remove the climbing ones from the supports and cover the near-trunk circle with peat in advance.

If you live in a warm climate, then you can climbing roses wrap with non-woven material, tie with twine, without bending.

But, of course, it is better to bend them to the ground, so that then the plants are covered with snow. But with standard roses it is more difficult. They are insulated in the following way.

First take:

• non-woven fabric or burlap;
• twine;
• scissors;
• pegs.

The trunk is tied with non-woven material or burlap, tied with twine. In the same way, you need to insulate the crown. So that the standard rose does not break, you need to drive two pegs into the ground - to the right and left of the trunk, and tie it to them.

Cropped roses can be covered with burlap. In the same way, other low heat-loving shrubs are insulated.

Hybrid tea, park roses are cut by a third, covered with caps made of non-woven material. To make the site look beautiful in winter, see how to make such insulation with your own hands.

How to sew shelters for roses for the winter?

To make such picturesque gnomes, take:

• bright and white non-woven material;
• scissors;
• threads to match fabrics;
• needle
• gum.

Manufacturing sequence:

1. Trim the rose first. Measure the distance from her crown to the ground - this is the height of the future cone. But it will be necessary to add 4 cm for a turn-up from below and 5 cm for a free fit. Let's designate the final value as "A".
2. Now, on the selected material, draw an isosceles triangle. Its identical sides are the “A” value, and the lower side is the diameter of the crown, plus 2 cm for the seams.
3. Now you need to sew the opposite sides of this shelter for roses. You will get a semblance of a cone. Turn it upside down twice, sew. Thread an elastic band into the resulting space, it is needed in order to fix the fabric gnome on the plant from below.
4. Cut out the facial features of this character and his beard and mustache. If you will sew these elements on your hands, then you can do it at this stage. If on a typewriter, then stitch them before you sew the sides of the triangle. Make a pompom, sew it on the top of the gnome.

Now you know how to make a rose cover. By the way, such a beautiful insulation is also suitable for other heat-loving plants with a narrow crown. You can sew a cover not only in the form of a gnome, but also so that it looks like a hare, a deer, or even one of your friends or neighbors. Fantasize, keep it up! Then the garden will have a "cheerful" look in the off-season.

Depending on the manufacturer, non-woven material may be called: lutrisil, spunbond, agrotex, etc. Choose one so that its density is 60-80 g / sq. m.

How to cover coniferous plants?

Many of them also require insulation. Some conifers can do without shelter, but arborvitae, especially young ones, are best insulated for the winter.

First, from the middle to the end of October, dry top dressing should be carried out. A complex is poured along the near-trunk circle mineral fertilizer. Mulch is laid on top with a layer of 10–20 cm. It is better to use peat. If the winter promises to be harsh, then spruce branches are placed on top of the mulch. In the spring, you will need to remove the branches, and crumbled needles and mulch will be an excellent spring top dressing.

Thuja shelter for the winter should protect it from:

• heavy snow cover;
• negative temperatures;
• bright sun at the end of winter, at the beginning of spring.

If the seedlings are young and still small, then they can be covered with plastic bottles with cut necks.

If you bought a very small thuja in late autumn, then it is better to leave it in the same pot for the winter. You can put it on a glazed balcony, where the temperature in winter is below + 5 ° C. Sometimes sprinkle snow under the plants, which will also become watering.

Here are some materials suitable for covering thuja for the winter.

1. Gauze. This material is cut into strips 50 cm wide, which are fastened together with a stapler. At the top of the thuja and below, the insulation is fixed.
2. Kraft paper. First, the branches of the trees are pressed against the trunk, wrapped well with wrapping paper. The strips need to be overlapped, going 10 cm onto the previous one. First, you need to wrap the top of the thuja, then gradually go down, wrapping the plant in a spiral. To prevent the craft paper from unfolding, it is fixed with wire, a stapler, twine.
3. Non-woven material. From it you can sew insulation that will last 5-7 seasons or simply tie plants.

Young thujas are insulated using a frame. To make it yourself, prepare:

• thick slats;
• reliable wire;
• bars;
• metal corners;
• plastic pipes.

If the thuja does not have a very fluffy and voluminous crown, then three supports can be used.

It is best to make a triangular frame, this will not collapse under the weight of snow. Stick slats or bars, pipes, slats around the thuja to a depth of 40 cm. Fix the upper ends above the top of the tree with wire. Horizontal crossbars are attached to the vertical ones.

A bag-case is put on top of this base, to which ribbons must be sewn and tied around the frame.

Do-it-yourself warming of plants for the winter will allow you to make frames and covers according to the size of a particular plant.

To make the wrapped trees look attractive, you can draw whatever you want on paper shelters, for example, funny faces. Beat the material of dark tones by adapting dry sticks here to make a small architectural form similar to a wigwam.

Early in the spring, do not rush to remove the shelter. It will protect the branches from burning out due to the bright sun. For the winter, it is necessary to insulate not only the branches of the thuja, but also the trunk circle.

To decide which material to use for this, check out the presented. They can also mulch the soil under other heat-loving crops, adding a touch of originality when warming them.

How to mulch plants?

Here are the main materials used for this:

• sawdust;
• needles;
• sackcloth;
• brushwood;
• straw;
• Construction Materials;
• spruce branches;
• peat.

Familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of such plant shelters.

Sackcloth

It has been used to make insulation for plants since ancient times. With this material:

• tie tree trunks;
• cover roses, hydrangeas;
• shade conifers so that they do not get sunburn.

Here are the disadvantages of this material - burlap lets moisture in. If it is wet and frozen, it will become an ice shell for plants. Under sacking, there is not very good ventilation and the cultures covered with it can rot, be affected by rot, and mold. Therefore, such a shelter is justified in a region where there is dry snow and no winter thaws.

Sawdust

Sawdust is an excellent heat-insulating material. But it is better not to cover the whole plant with them, but only the near-trunk circle, covering the aerial part. Some put sawdust in bags and thus warm the crops.

You can use only natural sawdust from wood, and not various secondary processed products, such as chipboard.

It is necessary to mulch the plants only with dry sawdust, as wet prey. If the shelter is not dry, moisture gets under the crops, then the sawdust should be positioned so that it does not touch the plant trunks. It is better to use large sawdust, they do not absorb moisture as much as small ones.

Sawdust acidifies the soil, so it is best to mulch the soil under crops that prefer acidic soils. For example, sheltering a hydrangea for the winter with such material will be justified. She prefers just such lands.

Under sawdust in spring, the soil will thaw longer. Therefore, if you need the plant to wake up in time after the winter, it is better to remove them in the spring.

Peat

One of the most successful materials that will allow you to insulate plants for the winter, covering them as if with a feather bed. After all, peat is light and warm under it. Even if it gets wet, it does not retain moisture for a long time.

But, like sawdust, peat makes the soil more acidic. Therefore, under cultures that love neutral or alkaline, you need to add a little ash or lime, dolomite flour, chalk.

Construction Materials

Some use these wooden boxes as winter material. But first you need to mulch the plant, and put such a box on top. To prevent water from penetrating, the container is covered with a film. But it is necessary to create ventilation systems.

Other building materials are also used:

• slate;
• cutting boards;
• ruberoid.

A frame is constructed from boards or boxes, but it only retains snow, and in order to insulate crops, you need to put burlap or non-woven material on this base. A semblance of a roof is built from slate or roofing material, not forgetting to make ventilation.

Lapnik

They also cover plants. In addition, it will protect them from mice. But it is better not to cover crops that love alkaline soils in this way. The crumbled needles will make the earth in this place more acidic.

It is important to properly harvest spruce branches so as not to break the law. It can be cut, for example, from a fallen tree, but not from a growing one. It is better to take a picture of this object so that you can prove where the spruce branches came from. The same applies to planned tree felling.

Foliage

Dry fallen leaves good material for warming the roots and lower parts of plants. But if the tree is affected by fungal diseases, such foliage is not suitable.

In spring, it is difficult to remove foliage from under plants, so it is better to pour it into vegetable nets, insulate the crops in this way, and at the same time make a small art object.

You can make a shelter for plants by taking:

• stakes;
• twine;
• dry leaves;
• grids;
• ruberoid.

Stakes are placed around the plant. Bags of foliage are applied to them. Roofing material is placed on top to protect the pet from precipitation. Then it will be well ventilated, and the plant will not get wet.

Straw

If there is an opportunity to get straw, use it. This material is well suited for warming plants and shelter beds for the winter. In order for the soil to thaw here in time in spring, you need to remove this shelter early enough.

You can make a semblance of a wigwam, a hut, a statue, a scarecrow out of straw so that the shelter of plants for the winter is elegant. But strengthen such an art object well so that it is not blown away by the winds.

Now you can reliably protect the plants in the country, and the shelters will look unusual and picturesque! In the video below, 5 myths about sheltering plants for the winter:

Incorrectly chosen protective "cocoon" for plants, and most importantly - its incorrect use leads to freezing of the root system, death of plantings and lack of yield. Unfortunately, not everyone thinks about how to properly cover plants for the winter.

Climate in last years becomes more and more unpredictable. Some suburban cultures middle lane need reliable shelter and can not always winter safely. However, often in an effort to unnecessarily protect plants, gardeners make mistakes and actively support the myths associated with the warming of garden and garden plants. Today we will talk about the most common myths and try to debunk them.

Myth 1. Absolutely all plants on the site need shelter.

Any plant has the ability to adapt to environmental conditions and climate. If you don't grow at all exotic plants, "guests from the southern countries", then in most cases you don't have to worry - other perennials will endure winter frosts and lower temperatures. most plants zoned, i.e. "hardened" and prepared to grow in the area in which you grow them. Mostly the tender ones need shelter. perennials which primarily include:

• roses (almost all types, except for park ones);
• clematis;
• chrysanthemums;
• lilies;
• garden peonies;
• rhododendrons;
• lavender;
• grape;
• young thuja up to 5 years old.

Choose for landing late and winter-hardy varieties- so the plants are more likely to freeze out

Myth 2. Plant shelter is a guarantee of its successful wintering.

One of the most dramatic pictures that meets summer residents who came to the site in the spring are plants that have not survived the winter. Moreover, to the surprise of many site owners, it turns out that both sheltered and unprotected plants suffered. The fact is that the main enemy dacha crops- it's not very cold, but temperature changes. Especially often such changes are observed in the autumn-spring period, when frosts are followed by thaws. At this time, there is an accumulation of moisture in the soil and its freezing. As a result, the root system rots, rots, freezes, cracks and opens the way for pathogenic microbes. Therefore, all measures to prepare plants for winter are not limited to creating shelter; it is necessary to prepare plantings for winter in a comprehensive manner. You need to start by choosing the right landing site, taking into account the level of groundwater, lighting and wind roses. You should also properly water, regularly feed and trim the plants.

The lower the shelter is located, the warmer it is, since only the earth warms the plants in winter.

Myth 3. Low-growing plants enough to sprinkle with earth

Low-growing crops or shoots remaining after pruning need only a small earthen mound. Most summer residents think so, but this is only half the truth about sheltering low crops for the winter. The "earth mound" practically does not protect against severe frost, but it actively removes moisture during spring floods, preventing the root system from getting wet. To create a thermal cushion, instead of land from the site, use humus. It is looser, does not cake, and its thermal insulation is higher than that of ordinary earth. And yet, even such a shelter should be considered only as an additional one, without neglecting the installation of a protective hut over rose bushes and other plants.

The layer of humus or peat above the plant should be 15-20 cm

Myth 4. Spruce branches and fallen leaves are the best shelter for plants.

Spruce spruce branches and leaf litter are often cited as the best covering material for plants. And there is a lot of truth in this - they do a really good job not only in protecting plants from the cold, but also in other functions. In particular, pine or spruce branches:

• protects plants from wet snow, rain and cold wind;
• a warm air ventilated layer is formed above the plants;
• shelter with spruce branches protects crops from sunburn and sudden changes in temperature;
• protects plants from rodents.

But at the same time, do not forget about shortcomings spruce branches:

• it is problematic to prepare a sufficient amount of spruce branches;
• in the process of harvesting, it is possible to violate the legislation on the protection of forest plantations;
• together with spruce branches, pests and diseases can be brought to the site.

Before collecting spruce branches, you need to make sure that there are no yellow and dry needles on the plant - this is often a sign of a serious illness.

When sheltered with spruce branches, the temperature under it does not fall below -5 ° C even in thirty-degree frost

Application as a covering material fallen leaves also quite popular. But summer residents usually do not remove the leaves that have fallen from fruit trees and shrubs. It quickly decomposes and protects plants from the first frosts. However, is autumn foliage really that effective in the long run? The fact is that only the leaves of oak, chestnut, maple and birch do not rot for a long time. Mice and other rodents like to settle in them for the winter. Therefore, only dry foliage can be used, and at the same time it is desirable that it is aged for several months, or even a whole year. Foliage is usually harvested in advance, placed in bags and stored in this way for some period of time.

Myth 5: Over-reliance on nonwovens

Covering synthetic materials quickly won the love of summer residents, and they began to be actively used to protect different cultures not only from the cold, but also from weeds and to preserve moisture. Unfortunately, dense materials sometimes play a cruel joke with summer residents. Initially, they were developed for countries with warm and little snowy winters. But when they began to be used in conditions of temperature fluctuations, it turned out that with the advent of spring, the plants began to die. Particularly badly tolerated winter under cover coniferous plants and decorative thujas. Due to temperature fluctuations, they were trapped in the ice shell that their shelter turned into. As a result, gardeners became disillusioned with the new material and stopped buying it.

It is not worth covering the plant early, in any case it should harden a little at temperatures down to -5 ° C

This was due to the fact that conifers were carefully wrapped in impenetrable material completely. Throw a film over the top of the tree, covering about 1/3 of the trunk with it. But even in this case, do not fix it rigidly, but organize something like a "wigwam". The needles will not come into contact with the frozen film and will be able to breathe. Also, the shelter will protect the tree from sun rays, especially insidious during thaws.

In this case, cover the lower part of the tree with snow and lay spruce branches on top. You can completely cover the plant with non-woven material closer to the beginning or middle of March, when all the snow has melted.

And what techniques do you use to cover plants in the garden? Share your ideas and observations, both positive and negative. In the first case, the readers and I will be able to be happy for you, and in the second, together we will try to find ways to solve problems with winter shelter.