Replacing a tee in a sewer riser with your own hands. Replacing the tee of the sewer riser. Purpose of funnel pipes

The tee is one of the most popular types of fittings. On sale you can find products for sewage from cast iron from several types of plastic. Which one should you choose?

And most importantly - how is the sewage tee replaced? Let's figure it out.

Material selection

So, given: the tee connecting the sewer riser to your in-house wiring is cracked or rotten. It needs to be replaced. What is the best choice?

First, let's get acquainted with what we have to choose from.

• The main advantage of cast iron is its exceptional mechanical strength... He is only afraid of shock loads; compressive or tensile loading will not deform or chip. The service life can be estimated at 25 years or more.
• Polyvinyl chloride is the most popular material... 80 - 90% of plastic sewerage is currently produced from it. Service life is at least 50 years; the material is moderately plastic, it is shock-resistant and splits under significant loads.
• Polypropylene is somewhat lighter than PVC; at the same time, it has greater rigidity, thermal and wear resistance... The service life does not differ from that of polyvinyl chloride.

Please note: on sale you can find the so-called silent plastic sewer. It features a multi-layer structure and increased thickness. If the cast-iron riser, which perfectly dampens the sound, is opened by a plastic tee, it is better to stop at the silent tee.

How does the present value of materials compare? Yes, the difference in the cost of the fittings in any case will not harm the family budget, but it is still interesting to correlate the costs in each case.

As a test piece, we will use exactly what needs to be replaced - a straight tee with all outlets with a diameter of 110 mm.

The notorious multi-layer structure and increased wall thickness can increase the cost of plastic fittings by 1.2 - 1.5 times.

Now let's think about the choice.

It seems that strength is an undoubted advantage, for which you can overpay a couple of hundred rubles.

Only here the strength of the tee will be in demand only when the riser section above it subsides. Actually, it is this drawdown that most often leads to a tee crack.

Note: in this case, the cast-iron gusset will not prevent subsidence, it will only prevent the mass of the riser from quickly splitting it.

As such, we prefer lightweight, cheap and durable plastic. Which one - PVC or PP - is a matter of purely personal preference. As we have already found out, the performance of plastics in our case is almost the same.

Replacement

It seems that a kitchen or sewage system installed under the bathroom - a 50-50-50 tee through which drains from a bath or washbasin are drained - will not require any special skills to replace. Let's focus on how to replace the tee in the riser with your own hands.

We will need:

• The tee itself.
• Compensating pipe of the same diameter.
• Rubber collar - an adapter from a cast-iron socket to a plastic pipe.

Raising and fixing the riser

You should start with a secure fit.

Otherwise, its subsidence after dismantling a part of the riser will lead to leakage from the ceiling or collapse of the mounting hole seal.

1. We cut off the water on the riser and warn the neighbors about the upcoming work.
2. We remove the toilet and disconnect the comb (intra-apartment sewer).

The photo shows the dismantling of the comb and the drain to the toilet.

1. At a height of 1-1.5 m from the floor, we drill a hole in the wall behind the riser, as close to it as possible, with a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm.
2. We drive into it a piece of 10 mm smooth reinforcement.
3. We tighten the riser with a thick wire a couple of centimeters below the reinforcement. The improvised clamp should not slip along the pipe.
4. We put another similar clamp directly above the tee and, using a lever (scrap or pipe), lift the pipe by this clamp until it stops.
5. Pull the upper clamp securely to the armature.

Dismantling

1. With a chisel or perforator, we beat off the concrete embedding, freeing the tee and the socket under it.

Caution: Lumps of concrete falling into the riser may become.

1. Using a screwdriver, using a light hammer, remove the cement seal and, if possible, the cable from the tee socket.
2. We cut the riser at a distance slightly greater than the length of the compensating pipe, from the socket under the tee. Make another cut 10 cm lower and remove the pipe piece.
3. By turning the tee by hand or with a gas wrench, remove it and clean the socket under it.

Installation

What does the actual replacement of a cast-iron sewer tee look like with a plastic one?

1. The riser above the cut to the length of the expansion joint is cleaned of paint and debris.
2. A clamp is installed directly under the cut - ordinary, plastic, from a store. He has to keep the compensator from shifting.
3. The compensating pipe is pulled over the cleaned pipe section. You can use regular or liquid soap as a lubricant.
4. The tee is inserted into the socket of the riser by means of a rubber sleeve.

The tee is the most demanded fitting. For a sewage device, it can be cast iron or plastic. The choice of a particular type will depend on the specific situation and several important nuances.

Often, when repairing a riser or replacing it, it becomes necessary to replace a sewer tee. This can be done independently or with the help of the efforts of specialists. In the first case, it is important to have basic knowledge and follow a clear sequence of actions. So, it should be noted right away that tees can be oblique and straight. Such elements are used for various angles of connection to the sewer riser.

Installation of a plastic sewerage tee and connection to a cast iron pipe

The sewer crosspiece changes in such situations:

• if you need to lower the placement level of this element;
• if this part is already largely worn out.

The reasons for replacing the cross can also include the impossibility of cleaning the sewer system in the event of serious deposits on the inner surfaces of the pipeline.

What material should the sewer tee be made of?

Most often, situations occur when the tee that connects the riser to the in-house wiring cracks or rotts. Then you cannot do without replacing it. As a result, the question arises, what material to choose from?

connection of plastic pipes with cast iron

To choose the right part, it is important to familiarize yourself with what assortment exists:

• cast iron tees have good mechanical strength. Despite this, such elements are afraid of shock loads. With regard to compressive and tensile loads, do not be afraid that this will cause deformation or chipping. The average service life of the product is about 25 years;
• polyvinyl chloride is considered to be a modern material for the manufacture of tees. Most of the plastic sewer is made from this material. The service life in this case will be at least 50 years. The advantages include plasticity, and the disadvantages include splitting under heavy loads and impacts;
• the best material is polypropylene, which is lighter than PVC products, while it has good rigidity, wear resistance and resistance to temperature extremes. In this case, the service life will be the same as in the previous version.

Now on sale there is a silent plastic sewer with a multilayer structure and a greater thickness. If there is a need to open the cast-iron riser, then it is more advisable to give preference to a silent product.

For some, the ratio of the cost of materials is of no small importance, since it can be very different, which affects the family budget. For example, consider the need to replace a straight tee with a diameter of 110 mm, which has all the necessary branches. The cost of such an element can be increased by one and a half times due to the use of a multilayer structure and increased surface thickness. Of course, such parameters are attractive, so many do not mind overpaying 100-200 rubles.

When deciding on the choice, you should know that a durable tee in to a greater extent it is needed when the area above it subsides, because it is because of this that tees often crack. Please note that the cast iron product does not prevent subsidence, it only prevents its rapid splitting.

layout of plastic sewer pipes in the bathroom

In this case, it is advisable to give preference to lighter, stronger and more inexpensive plastic. What will pVC material or PP, does not have of particular importance, since the performance characteristics of plastics are almost the same.

Replacing the tee

Sooner or later, the time comes when you need to replace the sewer tee mounted under the bathroom or other plumbing fixture. To perform the replacement yourself, you need to follow certain instructions. In addition, it is important to prepare such items in advance:

• directly the tee itself;
• you need to buy a compensating pipe of the same diameter;
• a rubber sleeve is required to move from a cast-iron socket to a plastic pipe.

Work should begin by securing the pipe over the sewer tee. If this condition is not met, its subsidence may occur, which can lead to leakage and collapse of the mounting hole.

So, the process should be performed in the following sequence:

• on the riser, you need to shut off the water, warning the neighbors in advance about the plumbing work;
• the toilet is dismantled and the intra-apartment sewage system is disconnected;
• a hole should be drilled in the wall behind the riser using a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm, while the level of this hole should be about one and a half meters from the floor;
• then a 10 mm piece of smooth reinforcement is driven in;
• the riser must be pulled together with wire at a level slightly below the reinforcement;
• such a clamp must not be allowed to slip along the pipe;
• the same clamp must be applied over the tee, lifting the pipe with a crowbar for it until it stops;
• the clamp located above must be firmly tightened to the armature.

installation of sewer pipes and their connection to the riser

Dismantling work

• With the help of a chisel or perforator, you need to beat off the concrete seal for easy removal of the tee and the socket that are under it.
• In the process of performing these works, it is important to be extremely careful, since pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser can clog the sewer.
• Using a screwdriver and a light hammer, you need to dismantle the cement seal and the cable from the tee socket, if possible.
• The riser is cut at a distance slightly larger than the length of the compensating pipe, namely under the tee from the socket. The next cut should be about 10 cm lower. After that, the piece of pipe can be safely removed.
• The tee can be removed with a gas wrench or manually, it is only important to turn it. After removing the part, clean the socket located under it.

Installation work

To replace the cast-iron sewer tee with a plastic element, you need to adhere to a certain sequence of work:

• it is necessary to clean the riser from contamination above the cut and old paint by the length of the socket;
• a simple purchased plastic clamp is placed directly under the cut. Its role is to keep the compensator from shifting;
• then the compensating pipe should be pulled over the cleaned section of the pipe. For ease of the process, you can treat the element with liquid or regular soap;
• using a rubber cuff, the tee must be carefully inserted into the socket;
• if the process is carried out correctly, the compensator should bend into the upper socket of the tee, after which it is fixed with a clamp;
• at the end of the work, the toilet is installed and the comb is connected.

connection of the sewer riser and plastic pipes

To complete the work, you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

• new crosspiece;
• compensating coupling;
• tape measure;
• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• gloves;
• 20 cm pipe section, the diameter of which can be up to 3 cm.

Phased execution of work

• At the first stage, preparatory work... In advance, you need to ask the neighbors from above not to use the sewer for a while. It is easier if the plumbing processes are carried out on the top floor.
• At the second stage, the pipe is marked for proper cutting. To do this, step back 7.5 cm from the upper border of the bell, making a mark for cutting. To make an even cut, it is recommended to use the welders method. The pipe is wrapped with newspaper and the edge is exactly aligned. Further, the marking is performed along the entire circumference. You do not need to cut it right away, you should remove the pipes that are connected to the cross. If special cuffs are used to secure the riser to the wall, then they must be removed.
• Now you need to clean the working area from impurities. And to prevent a possible drain from forgetful neighbors. To do this, unscrew the cover of the inspection tee, then a condom is inserted into the part of the pipe above this hole. It is usually put on the tip of the tube in advance and tied with a thread. Now you need to inflate and tie it. By performing such actions, you can be saved from impurities for a while. Despite these precautions, you need to work quickly.
• At the last stage, the pipe is cut according to a previously prepared marking. The upper region is tilted to the side to carry out the dismantling of the old cross. Putting on gloves, the old element is carefully removed, while a new cross is installed in its place. Now the expansion joint should be put on the pipe to make it easier, it is recommended to apply soapy water to the expansion joint seal.

We can say that the bulk of the work has been completed. After that, you need to pierce the condom and screw the revision hole cover back on. If necessary, plugs are installed at the outputs of the cross or pipes are brought to it, which are then fixed to the wall using fasteners.

Despite the warning, some neighbors forget about the request not to use the sewage system, so it is recommended to have an empty basin on hand, which can be substituted when draining the sewage.

Residential buildings of the Soviet and earlier eras are mainly equipped with cast iron sewer systems. Old houses with a Khrushchev-type layout have cast-iron pipelines and are designed for a standard service life of up to 70 years. In fact, owners of five-story apartment buildings need to replace the sewage system much earlier. The reason for this may be the repair work on the redevelopment of the apartment, major or current repairs that require general replacement engineering networks in the apartment: water supply and sewer pipe repair in the apartment.

We change the sewer pipeline

Before changing the sewer pipes in the apartment, they outline a plan for dismantling work.

Currently, the alternative piping for cast iron is PVC sewer piping. The phased replacement of sewer pipes and the repair sequence consists of the following types of work:

1. Disconnecting sanitary fittings from the existing sewerage system. If you plan to reuse household plumbing fixtures, then in this case, it is recommended to dismantle it carefully and carefully in order to preserve the material. Old toilets were usually installed with a cement joint to the sewer pipe, so to remove it, you have to break the joint with a hammer and remove it piece by piece;
2. Dismantling of existing horizontal cast iron sewer pipes;
3. Obsolete pipes can be disassembled with a heavy rubber mallet or wooden sledgehammer. In some cases, with good safety of pipelines during dismantling, use a circular angle saw "grinder" with a diamond disc;
4. Dismantling the existing sewer riser. At this stage, it is best for the owner of an apartment in a multi-storey building to ask the neighbors of the upper floors not to use the sewer. If the owners of the upper and lower apartments are not going to replace the common sewer riser, then in this case there is only one way out - using a grinder saw, carefully cut the existing riser at the ceiling level at a distance of 100 mm from the ceiling and 80 mm from the floor level;
5. The upper and lower uneven cut lines of the cast-iron sewer riser are carefully cleaned using a sander equipped with a scraper disc.

Important! Repair of the sewage system in the apartment is carried out with the obligatory observance of safety rules and the use of personal protective equipment: goggles and respirators.

New sewer riser

After the completion of the dismantling work of the outdated cast-iron sewage systems made of cast iron, you can proceed to the installation of a new central drainage pipeline. Any sewerage scheme consists of elements such as:

• Central vertical drainage pipe of the pipeline 100 mm;
• Sewer tee with a diameter of 100 mm for connecting a toilet bowl;
• Drainage pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, connected to a bathtub, sink, washbasin, dishwasher, washing machine.

The most crucial moment in the repair work to replace the sewer is the installation of a new sewer riser.

Subtleties of installation

Replacing the sewage system in Khrushchev is done in the following order:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to caulk the existing holes of the sewer pipe with a lump of rolled polyethylene, which will avoid the ingress of debris into the pipeline;
2. Special seals in the form of a cuff made of dense rubber are inserted into the upper and lower cut of the existing pipeline. The surface of the rubber joints must be coated with silicone sealant. Such a protective measure makes it possible to exclude the possibility of fluid leakage during the operation of a home sewage system;
3. After installing the seal, it is the turn of the installation of the main part of the sewer riser - an adapter with a diameter of 110 mm made of PVC. The connection fitting is mounted over the rubber seal at the top and bottom of the riser. The connections must be airtight and tight;
4. The assembled new sewer riser with branches is installed strictly vertically and fixed on the wall with special clamps with a diameter of 100 mm. Fixation elements are attached to the wall with construction plastic dowels. For a standard bathroom, three sewer riser mounts are enough.

After installing the main sewer pipeline, you can proceed with the installation of the vertical part of the drainage pipeline.

Dismantling the old tee

Replacing the sewerage tee connecting the toilet to the horizontal drain pipe and the central riser is considered the most time consuming job. In old-style residential buildings, bathrooms are equipped with cast-iron tees, walled up completely in monolithic concrete... Therefore, to dismantle and replace them, you will need to dismantle part of the floor. Another important problem of replacing this important element is the fragility of cast iron when dismantling the sewer pipeline. One careless shock movement can lead to a chain reaction of destruction of the sewer riser going to the neighbors.

After the installation of a new polypropylene tee with a size of 100x100x100 mm, its holes are covered with a thick layer of silicone sealant to create an airtight connection with a plastic sewer pipeline.

Installation of horizontal sewerage

After the assembly and installation of the central drainage pipeline, the replacement of the sewage system in the apartment begins. The sewer pipework to the connection points of household appliances is made of pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and unites all the drainage elements into a single household sewer network. To repair the sewer, direct plastic pipes and a variety of fittings.

Table of slopes and diameters of domestic sewage systems

Plumbing fixture	Bias	Distance between the central sewer riser and the siphon, mm	Horizontal pipeline diameter, mm
Bath	1:30	100-300	40-50
Shower	1:48	150-170	40-50
Toilet	1:20	up to 600	100
Sink	1:12	0-80	40-50
Bidet	1:20	70-100	30-40
Washing	1:36	130-150	30-40
Sink with shower	1:48	170-230	50
Central drainage pipe			100
Outlets from the central sewer riser			65-75

Since the liquid flows by gravity in the sewer pipeline of the apartment, during installation, the sewer line must be laid with a slope to the riser. To solve this problem, you need to know the exact placement of plumbing fixtures and other drainage elements.

Purpose of funnel pipes

The fan pipe can be considered as a kind of ventilation hood of the central sewer pipe.

In fact, it is a continuation of the drainage drain pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. So that they do not appear in the domestic sewage system unpleasant odors and no harmful gases accumulate, the upper part is located above the level of the roof covering and goes directly into the air atmosphere. To protect against rain and snow, the fan pipe is covered from above with a protective cap in the form of a fungus.

Fan pipe repair instruction

Replacing the fan pipe is a necessary measure for general repair in-house sewerage system. The simplified work plan consists of the following activities:

• dismantling of the old fan pipe;
• installation of a new structure.

In Khrushchev houses, fan pipes were installed from cast-iron pipes. Specific gravity 1 meter of cast iron sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is 25 kg. If you make a simple arithmetic calculation, you can understand that when disassembling a 3 meter long gray cast iron fan pipe, the weight of the structure to be dismantled will be about 100 kg. Therefore, it is unsafe to dismantle it yourself, it is difficult to hold such a significant weight in your hands.

The work on replacing the fan pipe is similar to replacing the sewer riser. The only difference is that a ventilation section of the pipe is added that extends beyond the roof structure.

Replacement of external sewerage

The problem of deterioration of external sewer communications often leads to serious accidents. Therefore, there is an urgent need for an emergency emergency repair. Many city dwellers are familiar with a similar picture: a partitioned off part of the street with a lot of earthmoving equipment and heaps of land near an open pit. Replacing the sewer pipes of the external pipeline in an open way is associated with great inconveniences and difficulties. Indeed, often at the location of the sewer pressure and free-flow pipelines there are other underground communications plumbing, electrical power cables, communications.

Alternative method of replacing the sewer

An alternative solution for the open method of repairing external pipelines is trenchless sewer repair. In conditions of dense urban development, this replacement method has gained its popularity due to the obvious advantages:

• Reducing the cost of work. With trenchless replacement, there is no need to use earth-moving equipment for excavation and soil removal;
• Reducing the duration of work to replace the sewage system;
• Sewerage replacement is carried out by a small number of workers;
• To carry out the work, no special permission is required - an order for earthworks;
• No risk of damaging others engineering communications... With the trenchless method, the new sewer line runs along the old route;
• The possibility of laying a pipeline of a larger diameter, which increases the throughput of the sewage system;
• Lack of obstacles to the movement of urban vehicles and pedestrians.

Trenchless replacement of sewage systems in urban conditions makes it possible to quickly restore emergency sections of the pressure sewage system. What is the trenchless replacement method?

There are several types of trenchless replacement of sewer pipelines. The most popular is the laying of new sewerage systems according to the "pipe in pipe" principle. Sewer pipes that have fallen into disrepair are replaced with special polyethylene pipes. For this work, special equipment is used - a pipe pulling device with a pneumatic drive. Renovation work conducted from one sewer well to another. Modern technologies allow you to replace an external sewer pipeline of considerable length in two to three days.

Using the trenchless replacement method, you can repair not only the sewer network, but also replace the water pipe line.

Video

In contact with

At the very beginning of the toilet repair at the stage of dismantling the toilet, sink, water and sewer pipes, I came across an unexpected problem in the form of a riser leak. The house is practically new - 3 years of construction. Before the start of the repair, no problems were observed. But after the drain pipes were disconnected, and the holes in the cross-piece of the riser were plugged with plugs, the riser dripped.
Well, not like a river. Not even a stream, but such an almost imperceptible drip flow. Nevertheless, she did not give rest. This was aggravated by the fact that it was time to start building a new wall of the plumbing box. And after its construction, access to the lower elements of the sewer riser will be seriously complicated. The reason for the digging did not lend itself to any explanation.

Everything looked something like this. The lowest joint of the riser pipes, or rather the pipe protruding from the floor and the cross-piece inserted into it, was constantly wet. However, there was no sign of water getting there from above. Moreover, upon close examination with a flashlight, periodic ejection of drops from the lower tube was clearly observed. Actually, this gave rise to the version that the cause of the leak is a poor-quality or missing sealing rubber cuff of the pipe.

One way or another, earlier I still thought about replacing the tee, since two more clients were added to the riser: washer and a dishwasher in the kitchen behind the adjacent wall. Earlier in the bathroom, we easily changed the tee of the riser together with the godfather, spending 20 seconds on this procedure. But I didn't really want to change the tee of the obviously current sewer riser on my own. As far as I am aware, the risers, both sewer and water pipes, are the area of \u200b\u200bresponsibility of DEZ. Therefore, I called there and invited the plumber Vasily - the author of the legendary phrase "a domestic valve with a cap for an oil seal" by 18:00.

Vasily agreed that the reason was probably the absence of the cuff. However, he said that it would be better for me to invite the team to repair the riser for tomorrow morning or afternoon. To this I assured him that he can count on me as a member of the brigade, and that if a brigade of two is enough, then it's time to start repairs right now.

Okay, let's take a look at the cuff first! - Vasily decided and the procedure began.

We must change! But how to disassemble a sewer riser?

Really? AS? Now everything will be told in detail.

No - I will say to those who think that in order to remove the pipe from the riser, the entire assembly is fed up or down - this is unrealistic, since the pipes sticking out of the ceiling and floor are fixed quite thoroughly.

And not so - there will be an answer to those who believe that the riser must be tilted to the side and then its length will increase, which will make it possible to release the element.

In fact, it is very simple to disassemble the riser! For this, it provides a special element - compensator... This is a short pipe, the socket of which is significantly longer than the 5 cm sockets usual for all other elements of the route.Thus, this compensator can be pushed onto the upper pipe by 15-20 centimeters, which will make it possible to calmly disassemble the sewer riser and replace any of its elements ...

IMPORTANT! If you decide on such a replacement, then to facilitate the work, you should drop a little machine oil into the joints of the expansion joint and other elements that you plan to disassemble 2-3 hours before starting. And on the wall it will be quite useful to mark the initial heights of the joints. Just in case.

So. Having fed the expansion joint upwards together with all the tees connected to it from below, we removed the lowest connection. Vasily fished the cuff out of the pipe. And while none of the residents of the upper 9 floors decided to wash, or, which is certainly much more fun, to flush the toilet, we pushed the crosspiece back into the pipe.
The cuff did not cause any complaints. There was not much sense in changing the cuff, and I suggested that Vasily replace the lower tee with a new crosspiece. Vasily asked to present it, and having examined it, expressed satisfaction with the quality of the element, finding it higher than that of the existing element. Indeed, all surfaces of the cross were perfectly smooth, in contrast to the noticeably rough old one.

After waiting 3-4 minutes for the state when the noise of the water inside the sewage system subsides, we moved the compensator up again. Vasily inserted a new (just in case) cuff into the lower branch pipe - 3 seconds. Disconnected the old cross - 2 seconds. Then a bad and very suspicious sound began to appear in the riser! ( drumroll) The sound, growing in strength, like an approaching locomotive, left no doubt that its reason was 6 liters of water from the toilet tank + a certain amount of human waste products - in a liquid or somewhat more solid form.
Absolutely not wanting to make sure with our own eyes the type of product, with coordinated movements we installed a new crosspiece in the lower branch pipe and moved down the expansion joint and the upper tee, keeping within 3 seconds. The whole change took 8 seconds, although the last three seconds, it seemed to me, dragged on for a very long time ...

Such a quick change is possible if all disconnected old and connected new elements are pre-treated with grease at the joints. If there is no machine oil at hand, then, at worst, you can use ordinary sunflower oil.

We installed all the riser holders back, we went to wash our hands and asked the question:

Why was the sewer riser leaking?

The rubber cuff was excluded, the narrowing of the cross was pushed all the way into the lower branch pipe. There remains only one reason - a crack in the cross. And it can only be in one place - in one that could not be seen in any way while it was part of the riser. This is the bottom corner of the tee.

Turning it upside down, we immediately discovered this crack.

By the look, the crack was far from fresh. Apparently it clogged from the inside with you-know-what, and it dried up to form a sealing layer. However, it was only necessary to slightly move the tap and this unreliable sealant ceased to perform its functions.

See what shit! - Vasily poked his finger at the defective tee.

I only offered to take this with me to the DEZ as proof of the repair of the riser without calling the emergency team. He politely declined.
He also politely did not refuse a small gratitude, and, as it seemed to me, very pleased with the work done and the reason found, took his leave.

And who is he - our today's hero?

ZYZH: It is clear that it is wrong to draw conclusions about quality based on such a small sample. Therefore, if you have something to say about the quality of this or that manufacturer of PP pipes for sewerage, please go to kamenty!

Good day to all, I will describe a simple way to replace the tee on the "rotator". For this we need; ordinary nippers, soldering acid, a soldering iron, tweezers and actually a spoon and a new tee). Many have spoons with rusted, deformed, broken off hooks, and in order to replace it, it is necessary to disassemble the entire structure of the spoon, which is not always convenient, and sometimes impossible without "consequences", because putting the entire structure of the spoon back together turns into that fetish )

I do not remember where I saw or read this method, but the point is that this method remained the only acceptable one for me both in terms of time and labor costs.

So, let's start, turn on our soldering iron and wait for it to heat up, any low-power soldering iron will do, about 40W is it, in our store its price is about 100 rubles)) You also need soldering acid, absolutely any and solder, sold in all kinds of "radio technicians" price 20 rubles per bottle.

On the new tee, we bite the eyelet closer to the forend and slightly unbend it so that the eyelet for the tee at the spoon can fit into the resulting gap.

If the T-piece has any nano coating)) it is necessary to clean it with 1 ... 1.5 mm paper from the edges of the gap.

Then we put on the tee in the lure's ear, bend the ear to its original position, poison our cleaned edges of the tee break with acid (carefully with a toothpick !!!) and solder it with ordinary solder).

That's it, the tee has been replaced. This procedure practically does not affect the strength of the tee (IMHO).

By the way, if you overdo it with acid, it's okay, after soldering, wash the spoon with soap and karachun acid)

I hope some of the things I wrote will be useful to someone. See you on the water)