How to make a boat out of plywood. Do-it-yourself boat: how to make wood and PVC out of plywood. Materials and tools

Every professional fisherman or hunter simply must have a boat in his arsenal. The market is currently overflowing with an assortment of boats different models and modifications for different tastes and wealth.

This article will lay out detailed descriptionhow to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

Many people wonder if it is possible to make a high-quality swimming vehicle on their own, save money on this and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Home-made boats have a number of undeniable advantages over their factory "brothers":

Product weight. When using plywood, the weight is significantly reduced in comparison with similar wood or metal models.
Using solid sheets will allow you to create perfect shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
Minimum final cost. It will be spent, will only have to consumablessuch as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that a lot can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend a week and a half on this work, provided they work in their free time or two full days.

Dimensions and Drawings

Let's consider the technical capabilities of the future boat in more detail.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is more than that of many motor boats of this class.

In order for the inflated nose not to interfere with the view, a cut is made along the length of the nose by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design provides for the use of oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions, on a special aluminum structure for which nests are provided in the side of the boat.

Longest in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Board height:

The nose section is 54 centimeters.
The back is 40 centimeters.
The height of the stern is 45 centimeters.
Hull weight is twenty kilograms.
Loading capacity is 180 kilograms.

Possibility of installing an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

The possibility of using one rowing pair is provided.

Picture No. 1:

A) Bottom view.
B) Top view.
B) Transom (blanks)

Figure # 2. Outer cladding (blank sheets):

A) Board.
B) Cheekbone.
C) Bottom.

Materials for construction

Building a homemade boat will require some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of tools that you will need:

Screwdriver
Manual milling machine.
Manual sander.
Clamps.
The jigsaw is electric.

List of materials for assembly:

Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
Wooden slats.
Brass nails.
Self-tapping screws for wood.
Epoxy resin.
Waterproof varnish.
Fiberglass.
Beam 50 to 3400
Beam 40 to 20 to 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

We make a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench and finished on the ground. You put the keel on the workbench, to one side of which the sternpost with the transom attached in advance is attached, and to the other side the stem.

The keel part with attached frames and pins is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for distortions and, if there are any, make adjustments.

The adjustment can be made by pulling the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes coincide, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is placed between all joints.

After the pins have been secured, you can start installing the frames.

The keel cut should be made at right angles on the frames. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 mm narrower than the frame.

Landing should be checked with a tight rope that should match the beams. By setting the frames at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the keel, you can finally fix it. After all the operations done, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular beam, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and a beam of 11 centimeters is inserted between the keel and the beam.

To exclude lateral distortions, pins and transoms, as well as beams, are fastened with some kind of bar.

Frame sheathing

After that, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of plywood sheets prepared for sheathing and try on templates on these sheets for a minimum amount of waste.

The contours of natural-sized parts when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when laying off given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or template.

All parts are cut with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For the subsequent joining of the sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, the axes of the parts to be glued should be aligned, with the help of a thread driven in between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, the same parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted with a plane.

Along both edges of the cheekbones, at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes are drilled with a diameter of 2 millimeters in 50 millimeter increments for wire clips, which will be connected later.

Fastening the skin should start from the bow of the boat, fastening with copper wire through holes made along the bottom and side. Twist the wire two or three turns from the outside with a little slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily fixed at the positions shown on the scan of the skin drawing.

After assembling the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the boat transom and fix it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is a chance that the sides will protrude aft behind the transom, in which case the edges should be trimmed with a plane.

After all the above operations have been done, you should finally tighten all the clips with pliers and squeeze everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass, cut in the form of ribbons.

The first layer should be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers at least 80 millimeters, but it is worth considering that layers 2 and 3 should be displaced in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass is completely cured, cut off the protruding ends of the wire clips and glue the outside with fiberglass.

The bottom should be secured with strips to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done in this way:

The prepared planks are drilled for screws in 20-25 centimeters increments. After that, the blanks are laid out in places and attached to the screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked places are treated with glue and the workpieces are screwed back.

After the glue dries, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes can be filled with specially prepared nails cut from wood.

After removing the accessories, all holes in the boat's skin must be filled with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy resin.

The inner part of the body is treated with hot drying oil. Regular oil-based paint can be used to paint the bottom and cans of the boat.

Adhesive selection

Adhesive material for boat construction is used:

Epoxy resins.
Vinyl ester resins.
Polyester resins.

Let's take a closer look at the above resins:

Epoxy resin - it can be safely called a universal resin used in the manufacture of floating facilities, has found irreplaceable use in composite structures and ship repair. These resins provide the highest quality of the glue line in terms of indicators.
Vinyl ester resin is inherently a hybrid compound. Epoxy molecules provide increased strength. Moderate shrinkage during hardening, and high strength prevents cracking during hardening. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and a rather high cost in comparison with other types.
Polyester resins - can be safely called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.
The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The disadvantages include only what is used only for gluing fiberglass.
These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the process of plastic reinforcement.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly the key to making a quality boat.

All photos from the article

A do-it-yourself plywood motor boat is interesting to many of our compatriots for two reasons - creative nature and lower cost price. Despite the apparent complexity of the project, it can be understood and implemented.

But for this it is extremely necessary such a factor as your desire to do it. In addition, what you did on your own will be more dear to you morally, so stay with us and we will show you the video in this article.

We make a small boat

Note. We will not consider a specific design, for example, do-it-yourself drawings of a folding boat made of plywood.
Our goal is to tell you about general principles and methods of manufacturing small craft.

Required materials and tools

Plywood selection:

to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you, naturally, will need this very plywood, only of different thicknesses;
for the hull you need a sheet thickness of 5 mm, but for the keel and frame you will already need 10-15 mm thick (select the panel length depending on the body length);
as you understand, high-quality products are needed here, therefore, you will have to choose either elite E or 1st grade for work - the price, of course, will be higher, but the quality will rise along with it;
also important, on which the water resistance and strength of plywood depends - the most the best brands here you can name FSF or FSF-TV (flammable), FB and BS (aviation - also used in shipbuilding).

Solid wood:

for decorating the sides, installing seats and arranging struts inside the boat hull, you will need solid wood;
pine edged board is best suited for this purpose - it is lighter than larch, but due to the resin content, it tolerates wet well.

Suture material:

to tighten the body and connect other parts into a one-piece structure, suture material is needed here;
for this, you can use thin knitting steel or copper wire, thick nylon line or plastic clamps.

Tightness:

in order for the boat not to leak, all the seams must be sealed with water-repellent glue - at the moment there are a lot of them on sale;
as practice shows, compositions based on polymer resins are best suited for this purpose;
fiberglass is also used to seal the seams - a tape from it is planted on glue along the joint;
it is also possible to use fiberglass for this purpose, pasting the sides and bottom with it;
to protect against swelling, water-repellent varnishes and adhesives are used, impregnating the body and lintels with them - for this you can, for example, use bakelite varnish or glue;
besides impregnation, you will also need polymer paintthat will complement the moisture resistance and beautify your boat.

Tools:

to make a boat with your own hands from plywood, of course, you will need tools and, first of all, this is a circular saw and / or an electric jigsaw (a hacksaw is also useful);
a set of hand carpentry tools in the form of a hammer, chisels, pliers, and the like;
grinding disc or belt machine;
tape or steel clamps;
paint brushes for applying impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Choosing a drawing

Important!
Before starting the assembly, find the drawings that are suitable for your case - how to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, it can be a flat-bottomed fishing boat that you will use on weekends or a kayak for hiking trips on vacation.
But if you are already experienced in "shipbuilding", then you can try to draw such a project yourself, but here it is very important to calculate the carrying capacity so that the craft does not tip over during operation.

A large number of fishermen are convinced that the best fishing tackle can only be made by hand. Fishermen have learned to make not only tackle, but also swimming equipment.

The process of building a floating craft is very exciting and allows you to fully realize your creative potential.

Contents

Manufacturing features

When building a boat, it should be borne in mind that the most significant element of the frame part is the base on which the rest of the parts are attached (keel).

The nasal region is formed by the stem and is fixed on one side. In the aft part, the fastening is made by the sternpost - the elements responsible for ensuring the longitudinal rigidity of the structure.

They can be made on the basis of wood materials (solid) or individually glued and fixed with nails and screws.

The transverse parts of the hull allow to achieve bends and transverse contours, which adds the necessary rigidity to the craft. In the upper part of the stem and sternpost, boards are placed that are connected to the frames. This design forms the sides.

The resulting frame must be sheathed with plywood. In the inner part of the boat, a flooring (slan) is laid. Thus, the lower deck is formed.

Plywood boats can be equipped with a motor or oars. The main design difference is the stern. For motor boats, a transom (made of plywood) is installed in the stern.

On request, boats can be equipped with a cockpit, deck stringers and side stringers. To ensure good buoyancy, the niches must be filled with foam to prevent the boat from capsizing.

Determining the parameters

Experts presented the most comfortable parameters for a craft made on the basis of plywood, the thickness of which is within 5 mm:

Length of the hull (from bow to transom) - 4.5 (m);
The indicator of the width in the widest part of the body (measurements are taken from the top) - 1.05 (m);
The depth indicator of the boat is 0.4 (m).

The most important stage of construction is the construction of the drawing. You can take a ready-made drawing presented on sites on the Internet or make it yourself.

It is very important to study the proposed drawing very carefully if the diagram is taken from the Internet. It is recommended to build a scale drawing on graph paper. This will allow you to accurately calculate the elements of the case.

Steps for creating a sketch of a general plan

The first step is to draw an axial (diametrical) plane - a line dividing the body part along its length into a pair of equal parts. Given the symmetry of the image of the boat, all elements should be adjusted as accurately as possible.
The plane of the diametrical type is divided into proportional segments. Frames will be located in these sections.
Drawing a vertical projection swimming facility.
Go to construction top view.
We draw plans for frames along the transverse lines.
Making sure the locations are consistent and the scale of all parts.
Having compiled a sketch of the frames, we proceed to building its drawing using a 1 to 1 scale. It is advisable to build drawings on a cardboard base, which will make it easy to transfer it to plywood.
To provide the necessary smoothness, you should connect the points with a metal ruler (from the keel to the side area).
Having folded the drawing along the diametrical plane, we check the symmetry. It is very important that the sides follow their contours exactly.

Image transfer from template to plywood

Having checked the symmetry of all the elements, we first transfer the image to the cardboard base. After that, we move on to transferring templates to plywood, while accurately observing all the contours. In no case should you add allowances! When transferring the template, the order of the fibers is observed with absolute precision.

Materials and tools

When creating a swimming device, you cannot do without the following materials and tools:

screwdriver;
manual milling machine;
grinder (manual type);
clamps;
jigsaw;
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 5 mm (2.5 by 1.25);
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 6 mm (1.5 sheets);
planed boards (not less than 25 mm thick);
slats (wood);
nails (brass);
self-tapping screws for wood;
epoxy resin;
varnish (waterproof type);
fiberglass;
timber (50 to 3400);
timber (40 to 20 to 4000).

Manufacturing process

The assembly of the frame part starts at the workbench and ends at the floor (ground).

In order to avoid mistakes in the assembly process, it is recommended to use the instructions below:

We put the keel on the workbench.
Attach a stern post with a transom to one of the sides of the keel. The forstenvel is connected to the second side.
With the help of nails, the keel part (together with the frames) and the pins are connected. We carefully check everything for distortions. If any, it is necessary to adjust. To do this, a string is pulled between the transom and the stem.
Making sure that the axes are completely aligned, we make the final fastening.
Thin fabric is soaked in paint (thick enough) and is distributed among the existing connections.
After fixing the rods, we proceed to the installation of the frames. To ensure tight fixation, an incision for the keel should be made a little narrower than the frame (by a couple of mm).
The fit is checked with a taut rope. An exact match with the beams must be ensured.
Install frames it is recommended to observe an angle of 90 degrees.
Finally, we fasten the frames.
Having done all the operations, set the deflection angle. For this purpose, round beams can be used, temporarily fixed to the extreme parts of the keel (from the inside).
Insert between the beam and the keel wooden beam (11 cm).
Fastening is done exclusively with uneven bars, which will prevent the appearance of distortions of the transom.
We turn to the frame skin. It is advisable to transfer the entire sheet sketch to a reduced size of cardboard and cut it out.
Drawing an image for cutting on plywood (observing sheet sizes).
Trying on templates.
We cut with a jigsaw (small teeth) all the details. We make the stock no more than 2 mm. It is very important to add an additional 70 mm for joining the sheets.
Using the threads driven in (between the boards), we align the axes of the elements. We make gluing and wait for it to harden.
Using small carnations, we shoot down the same parts of the watercraft.
We adjust carefully between each other with a plane.
We drill holes (with a diameter of 2 mm) stepping back from the edges of the cheekbones 12 mm, observing a step of 50 mm, intended for wire clips. It is the clamps that will become reliable connectors.
The planking is attached starting from the bow of the boat. It should be fixed with copper wire through holes that are made along the bottom and side part. The wire is twisted from the outside for a couple of turns.
Next, we make the cladding transom and bottom.
Assembled sides to be installed and temporarily connect.
The bottom is assembled according to the same principleas the boards.
Install the transom and fasten it using screws (3 by 18) and an adhesive base, while maintaining a distance of about 0.5 cm.
If the side elements protrude beyond the transom into the stern, then you can align the edges with a planer.
Finally, we tighten the paper clips with pliers. We compress everything in the inner area.
Each slit and joint of the floating craft must be glued with fiberglass tapes. The width of the first layer should be up to 28 mm, subsequent layers - about 75 mm. Positioning each subsequent layer, move it a little (on different sides).
After the fiberglass has hardened, the protruding edges of the clips must be removed. We glue the outer area with fiberglass.
To increase the degree of rigidity and increase the service life, it is necessary to reinforce the bottom with planks. For this, holes are drilled on the strips for screws (the pitch is 25-28 cm). All workpieces laid out in places are fixed with screws, basting with a felt-tip pen and removed. Only after processing each basting with an adhesive base can the workpieces be screwed into place. After the glue dries, the screws are unscrewed, and the resulting holes are clogged with nails that are cut out of the tree.
Removing the accessories, putty with a mixture of epoxy resin with sawdust all the holes in the sheathing.
The outer part of the watercraft processed with glue and fiberglass.
Inside the boat is covered hot drying oil.
The ship is painted with paint oil-based.

Boat testing

After self-made boats should go out on it to the reservoir and be sure to test. When checking the speed characteristics, it is necessary to create conditions as close to reality as possible. In addition, testing is carried out with different levels of stress.

In this case, you can use an independent exit and with two people on board. However, it is desirable that the total weight does not exceed 150 kg. You can measure the speed with a GPS navigator.

It is important to take into account that motors with low power (5 HP) are difficult to withstand the increase in load. This situation will worsen if the boat is too short.

Therefore, for such motors, the recommended load does not exceed 90-100 kg, otherwise it will be impossible to switch to the planing mode. Sufficient length of the boat and a good motor will allow you to easily go on planing even at full load (150-160 kg).

In the manufacture of a swimming device, all the irregularities are necessarythat appear after applying epoxy glue, sand with sandpaper.
Any flaw can be filled with putty moisture resistant type.
There shouldn't be any special difficulties in building a boat, however, it is extremely important to follow all the recommendations of specialists regarding the phasing of the process.
Before cutting the material, make sure once again that the measurements are correct and only after that start cutting out the details.
Picking up wood material for the manufacture of watercraft, you should give preference to products without knots and cracks. We select only the highest quality specimens.
With the correct assembly of the structure, you can be confident in the strength and reliability of the boat. Products made on the basis of plywood can very rarely leak.
The plywood boat is light, which does not cause any special problems during transportation.

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats in specialized shops different forms and sizes, many are still interested in how to make a homemade boat out of plywood. The main reason for this interest lies, perhaps, in the ineradicable craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Let it be possible to buy anything today, but in a homemade dinghy or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the magazine "Rybolov", there is some indescribable charm.

In the article, we will give a few tips, using which, you can quickly learn how to make boats - homemade plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade plywood mini boats were very popular. This made it possible to work out the methods for their manufacture, as well as to determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but we do not need anything complicated to make a small craft with our own hands:

Plywood is the most important component... For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Individual parts, such as frames or keels, are cut from a thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
To provide the sides with sufficient reliability, only high-quality plywood should be used for sheathing, without cracks, delamination, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of first or second grade material will be higher, but you will be sure of the safety of your boat.

The wood is used for the installation of internal struts, the decoration of the boards, seats etc. It is advisable to use an edged, planed board made of light wood species.
The suture material is used to connect individual sheathing parts into a single whole... The seams can be made using a fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
Glue is needed to ensure proper tightness of the seams... To date, the masters have practically abandoned natural casein-based compounds, and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and decay. It is also worth stocking up on fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, you can use fiberglass - then it will be pasted over the entire bottom and sides.

Well, don't forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

Saw on wood.
Jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
Sander.
Hand tool (hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
Brushes for impregnation, varnishing, etc.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before starting work, we decide what kind of vessel we need. Today, you can find a variety of drawings of homemade plywood boats on the net, so nothing is impossible in building a punt for fishing or assembling a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, you can do the design yourself.

True, in this case, you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat may turn out to be extremely decorative.

Having studied the available projects of homemade plywood boats, or having made our own, we transfer the outlines of the main parts to paper.
Using paper templates, draw lines on plywood sheets along which frames and sheathing sheets will be cut.
If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then they must be spliced. To do this, we cut the ends of the plywood at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 thicknesses of the sheet itself.

Attaching the beveled parts to each other, coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called the "mustache" connection.
In parallel, we procure wooden beams, from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To facilitate the work on the project, you can assemble special goats from beams with a section of 50x50 mm.
On these trestles it will be much more convenient to place all the parts during the connection process, especially if you work without helpers.

Assembling the case

When everything is ready, we start work:

Using a wood saw or jigsaw,. The offset from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not converge when stitching.
We glue the transom parts (tailgate) and frames to obtain the desired thickness and strength. The glued parts will be a bit heavy, but that's okay!
If you plan to install a boat motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the screws should be such that the tip does not pierce the part through and through.

We install the transom on pre-made trestles and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together at the bow.
We fasten the sheathing parts either with a suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting the edge of the plywood at an angle.

At this stage, it is very important that all the elements converge in size, since to reduce the gap, you will have to disassemble the entire structure and partially cut the frames.

After the "rough assembly" you can start gluing.

Adhesive work

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

We prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). The components are mixed in 1: 1 promotion using a drill attachment. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
The corners between the bottom, sides and transom are reinforced with wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
We glue the strips of fiberglass and fiberglass on all the seams from the inside, carefully coating the joints with an epoxy-aerosil compound.

Note!
Since most adhesives contain volatile toxins, all paintwork must be carried out with respiratory protection!

After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
We use the same glue to fix the frames. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping fiberglass strips.

We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten the oarlocks, seats and other details provided for by the design.
If the boat is planned to equip a cockpit ( closed space in the bow), install the cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting for the whole structure to dry out, remove the boat from the trestle, turn it over and grind the outer surface. Then we process the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloration

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive spring look:

First, we thoroughly degrease all the parts.
Then we process the wood with impregnation. The Tikkurila composition for sea or river vessels is quite suitable here.
We putty all the planes, masking cracks and irregularities, and then we process it with a special primer.
Paint homemade plywood boats You can use almost any paint, but if you want to ensure the durability of the vessel, then it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for processing wooden boats.

Average paint consumption is 1 - 1.5 l / m2. It is best applied with a brush, but a spray gun is also allowed.

Output

Homemade boat made of plywood made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family walks, etc. Of course, it is not worth going out to the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for large rivers and lakes of our country, such a design is quite reliable. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Similar materials

The development and appearance of such an unusual project is due to the widespread interest of sailing enthusiasts in marine antiquity. A small and shallow-draft (draft 1.5 m), but quite seaworthy cruising yacht, designed for long voyages for a crew of 8-9 people, has been given some features characteristic of sailing ships of the 18th - early 19th centuries - the heyday of the sailing fleet. At the same time, the project provides for the use modern materials and the structure of the body, as well as the technological methods used today ...

The ship's spar was designed taking into account the main features of shipbuilding during the times of the sailing fleet: the "classic" proportions and principles of weapons were preserved. In the old days, the masts of small ships were most often made in one piece or they were assembled from parts well fitted to one another - pieces fastened from the outside with veils (strapping with a strong cable) every 800-1000 mm ...

For some time, operations with the 48-kilogram "Whirlwind" became difficult for me - carrying it from the storage place to the boat, hitching it to the transom, removing it from the boat, etc. I had a dream about a leisurely displacement boat with an economical stationary engine, with a cabin that would protect from rain and wind. So the boat presented in the photo and sketch, equipped with an air-cooled UD-25 four-stroke carburetor engine appeared ...

How to make a boat out of plywood. Do-it-yourself boat: how to make wood and PVC out of plywood. Materials and tools

Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

Dimensions and Drawings

Materials for construction