How to hang the heating battery yourself. Proper installation of a heating radiator with different connection schemes High heating radiator where to put

In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary to correctly install the heating system. At the same time, it is important not only to qualitatively implement the necessary set of works, but also to correctly connect all the heating elements. It is necessary to take into account the current standards for the number of heating elements for a certain area. If you wish, you can do everything with your own hands.

Is assembly required?

If the radiators are delivered assembled, it is enough to install the plugs and. Most models have four holes located at the four corners of the case. They are used to connect heating lines. In this case, any scheme can be implemented.

Before the installation of the system begins, it is necessary to close the extra holes using special plugs or air vent valves. The batteries are supplied with adapters that must be screwed into the manifolds of the product. Various communications should be connected to these adapters in the future.

prefabricated models

Assembling the batteries should begin with laying the entire product or its sections on a flat surface. Best on the floor. Before this stage, it is worth deciding how many sections will be installed. There are rules that allow you to determine the optimal amount.

The sections are connected using nipples having two external threads: right and left, as well as a turnkey ledge. The nipples should be screwed into two blocks: at the top and at the bottom.

When assembling the radiator, be sure to use the gaskets supplied with the product.

It is necessary to ensure that the upper edges of the sections are correctly located - in the same plane. The tolerance is 3 mm.

Features of installation of various types

The material from which a particular heating element is made imposes certain requirements on its installation. If cast iron is not afraid of serious mechanical stress, then others require special care.

Cast iron classic

Still remain relevant. The special characteristics of the material used in their manufacture make it possible to effectively heat a room of any area due to slow cooling.

To install such a heating element correctly, before connecting, you should:

disassemble the finished product into sections;
stretching all the nipples, assemble the product in reverse order.

When performing installation work, it is worth considering the weight of the product and the composition of the material from which the house was built. The heating element can only be installed on brick and concrete walls. near drywall wall produced on a floor stand.

Modern models

Such products are characterized by low weight and increased fragility. For them, it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky crane.

In the process of performing installation work, do not remove the packaging to prevent deformation of the surface.

How will we connect?

The scheme for connecting radiators can be different. The level of heat transfer and the comfort of being in the apartment depend on which option will be preferred. Incorrectly selected wiring can reduce the power of the heating system by 50%.

Lateral

The most widespread is the one-sided side scheme, which has the highest heat transfer rate. In this case, the pipe supplying the coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one.

If you do the opposite, the efficiency of space heating will decrease by almost 7%. To connect multi-section radiators, such a scheme is not always justified, since insufficient heating of the last sections is possible. This can be avoided by installing a water flow extension.

lower

In an apartment with pipes hidden in the floor or passing under the plinth, a bottom connection is used.

This is the most aesthetic option, in which the pipes for supplying and discharging the coolant are located below in the floor, and therefore the lower holes are used for connection.

Diagonal

Installation of batteries with twelve or more sections is carried out in a diagonal pattern.

The coolant is supplied through the upper branch pipe located on one side of the radiator, and is discharged through the lower one on the other side.

Sequential

Such a connection scheme assumes the presence in the heating system of pressure sufficient for the movement of the coolant through the pipes.

In this case, it is worthwhile to provide for a Mayevsky crane, designed to remove excess air.

It is important to remember that the implementation of repair and maintenance work will be accompanied by the shutdown of the entire heating system.

Parallel

Parallel wiring assumes the presence of a special heat pipe built into the heating system, through which the coolant is supplied and discharged outside.

The presence of special taps at the inlet and outlet makes it possible to replace individual radiators without turning off the heat supply. However, the scheme can cause insufficient heating of the pipes at reduced pressure in the system.

Work sequence

Installation of batteries begins with a complete overlap of the circuit. When replacing old radiators with new ones, water is drained and the heating elements are dismantled. It will be correct to use the pump to exclude the presence of coolant residues in the system.

After all the water has been removed, the battery attachment points are aligned in both planes. Brackets are installed.

Package

The next step will be the packaging of radiators using sealing linen, packaging paste or special shut-off valves. Using a torque wrench, tighten the connection, creating the force specified in the documentation.

Installation work

Installation of radiators on the wall is carried out by welding or polypropylene pipes. In the first case, it is enough to use two fasteners; in the second, at least three are required. Two should be at the top, one at the bottom.

With ten or more sections, the number of fasteners should be increased to five. There should be three at the top, two at the bottom.

Spatial control

The battery position is monitored in both planes. It is advisable to provide a slight slope towards the wall. This will avoid airing the system during its operation.

The final stage

Threading is performed on the risers and the connection of all elements of the heating system. The tightness of all connections is carefully controlled.

After that, trial tests can be carried out in order to detect a possible leak.

Tests

If until now everything has been done by hand, at this stage it is better to invite a ZHREU locksmith. By shutting off the taps of the "American", you can open the connecting tap. It is better to entrust the opening of the return pipe to a locksmith.

If there are no leaks at the connection points, it will be possible to open the valve on the batteries and close the bypass valve. The coolant will begin to flow into the heating system. To bleed air, you should use the Mayevsky crane.

As soon as the heating circuit in all rooms warms up, the locksmith will open the straight pipe. This will restore pressure in the system. We can assume that the control tests are completed. If the installation was done correctly, the apartment will be comfortable at minimal cost.

Lost battery? Do you want to replace an old bulky cast-iron battery with a compact and more economical bimetallic one?

Installing heating radiators is an inexpensive and sure way to return heat to your home!

Installing a heating radiator

Before starting work, consider some of the nuances:

Before replacing the battery, the water must be turned off only in the customer's apartment, and not in the whole house.

Water should be blocked only by ZhEK employees who have the appropriate qualifications for this. Even when replacing the battery with your own hands, entrust this task to specialists. Otherwise, you risk leaving without water supply all the residents whose apartments are located along the riser.

Battery replacement, ideally, should also be carried out by employees of the housing office or workers specially hired for this. If the removal and installation by the customer were carried out independently, then all responsibility for the serviceability of the system lies with him.

Installation and replacement of the battery when using the pipe bending method and gas welding work, instead of the usual installation system, should also be carried out by workers who have certain qualifications for the work. advanced level security.

Selection and installation of radiators of various types

On the market today are radiators made of cast iron, aluminum, steel, as well as bimetallic radiators. How to choose the right one among them?

Cast iron radiators

Modern cast-iron radiators are no longer the bulky accordions that we are used to seeing in Khrushchevs and most Soviet apartments. Today they look like flat panels with smoothed corners and presentable appearance. Due to its physical properties, cast iron, when heated, retains heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the room.

Advantages: improved heat transfer, service life of about 25-50 years. Disadvantages: heavy weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is impossible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Flaws: a lot of weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is not possible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Manufacturers: Model MS-140 or the so-called "accordion" is an eternal classic, well known to all of us. Transformed cast iron radiators can be found in the catalogs of VIADRUS (Czech Republic), ROCA (Spain) and FERROLI (Italy), as well as domestic manufacturers - CHAZ (Cheboksary Aggregate Plant) or MZOO (Belarus). Price: from $8 per section.

Aluminum radiators

By design, modern aluminum radiators differ little from cast iron ones. However, a significant difference between them is the weight of the radiator sections.

Advantages: good heat transfer performance, the presence of ventilation windows that evenly distribute warm air throughout the room, the weight of the sections (only 1 kg!), smooth surface, can be fixed on any surface.

Flaws: susceptibility to the chemical composition of water, pressure surges in the pipeline.

Manufacturers: Due to the fact that a small radiator can heat a relatively large area, on the market you can find models from 80-100 mm deep and center-to-center distance from 300 to 800 mm, and the number of sections in the radiator from 4 to 16. Italian-made models are more common: radiators firms FONDITAL, DECORAL, RAGALL, FARAL, as well as a number of radiators of domestic production - SMK (Stupino) and MMZiK (Mias). Price: from $12 per section.

Bimetal radiators

We can say that this type of radiator is a compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Externally, bimetallic radiators are difficult to distinguish from aluminum ones, however, such products are not sensitive to the composition of water and changes in pressure. The universal design of such heating radiators directs hot water through steel pipes, giving off heat to aluminum panels, and they heat the air in the room. Installation of a heating radiator of this type is the best option both in price and in terms of the physical properties of the product.

Advantages: weight, advanced battery design, good heat dissipation performance.

Flaws: not yet discovered.

Manufacturers: On the market you can find products mainly from Italian (SIRA, GLOBAL) and Czech manufacturers (ARMATHERMAL). Of the domestic radiators, RIFAR (Gai, Orenburg region), TsVELIT-R (Ryazan) and SANTEKHPROM (Moscow) are rightfully considered the best. Price: from $15 per section.

Steel radiators

Based on the above general rules the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the mounting locations.

If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and fix the brackets to the wall (be sure to use a level to determine the horizontal, as well as a tape measure to determine the length of the bracket entering the wall).

Fix the radiator to the brackets by placing their hooks between the battery sections.
Connect the radiator to a centralized or autonomous space heating system according to the selected connection scheme.

Installation of aluminum radiators can be carried out both in one- and two-pipe heating systems with horizontal or vertical pipelines. These radiators can also be used for space heating with natural and forced circulation of hot water. Today, the market can offer two options for aluminum radiators:

Reinforced radiators with working pressure up to 16 atm. Such batteries are used for heating high-rise residential and non-residential buildings. For heating a private house, the use of this type of radiators is unjustified due to the high cost of the sections.

European type of aluminum radiators, designed for space heating with autonomous heating systems. The maximum working pressure in such radiators is no more than 6 atm.

The installation kit for aluminum radiators consists of:

automatic or manual air release valve (the so-called Mayevsky valve);
plugs (right or left thread);
sealing gaskets;
racks or brackets;
shut-off or thermostatic valves.

Installation of cast iron radiators

The installation of cast-iron radiators is basically the same as the installation of aluminum radiators. In the case of cast iron products, however, it is important not to overload the wall, and also pay more attention to torque moments. Cast iron radiators are recommended to be installed at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the radiator (this can lead to a decrease in the heat transfer of the device).

Cast iron radiators also have an assembly system different from others: before installing such a radiator, you need to unscrew it, tighten the nipples and assemble the radiator together again. floor stands. At the same time, wall mounts are also performed, however, they perform only a supporting function.

Installation of bimetallic radiators

The advantages of installing bimetallic radiators, rather than cast iron or aluminum, are that they weigh relatively little and, provided that they are not inferior to aluminum in terms of heat transfer, bimetallic radiators are able to operate smoothly even at high pressure in the system. installation method, and general recommendations for the installation of such heating devices are indicated in the instructions for the product.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of pipes made of one or another material in combination with bimetallic radiators. So, for example, for most houses, only metal pipes are installed, and metal-plastic can only stand in private houses, whose heating system works at high pressure.

$ The cost of installing heating radiators

The cost of installing a radiator will directly depend on the material of the product, the number of installed sections for one heating point, as well as the total number of heating points installed in the apartment. The total amount of installation costs will be affected by the connection scheme and the cost of the components necessary for the work. Of course, you can do such work with your own hands. However, this will place on you all responsibility for the system's performance, as well as for all possible negative consequences associated with its breakdown. So, how much does installing a radiator cost? On average, all work on the arrangement of one heating point in an apartment can drag on $ 40-50.

Radiator installation:

Kyiv - 250-350 UAH. for a point;
Moscow - 2,650-3,000 rubles. for a point.
The cost of work on the supply or replacement of heating pipes is calculated separately.

Installation of radiators: VIDEO

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: VIDEO

Performing independent installation of the heating system, among other issues, we need to decide at what distance from the wall to hang the radiator. Although this aspect may not seem important enough to some, in fact, the efficiency of the system largely depends on compliance with the installation parameters.

In our article, we will explain why it is necessary to monitor the distance from the battery to surfaces, and also give recommendations for installing the radiator on the wall or on the floor.

Importance of respecting installation parameters

Heating appliances, as their name implies, are installed in a room to heat it. At the same time, for most radiator-type models, heat radiation is characteristic of the entire surface, which imposes certain restrictions on the installation.

As a rule, the distance from the wall to the heating radiator is from 25 to 60 mm. This value is determined, in fact, by two parameters: the fundamental possibility of installation (the size of the window sill, the dimensions of the niche, etc.), as well as the power of the device.

Note!
The more powerful the device and the higher its heat transfer, the greater should be the gap between the rear surface and the wall.

Installing the battery close to the wall is not recommended, and here's why:

Firstly, for efficient heat exchange between the radiator material and air, it is necessary to provide at least a minimum level of circulation. In a small gap, the air remains almost motionless, and therefore part of the heat is lost.
Secondly, in a too narrow space between the rear wall of the radiator and the wall surface, a high temperature is constantly maintained. Because of this, the level of heat dissipation decreases, the battery wall overheats, and the device fails earlier.

Note!
This is important for both water radiators and electric heaters.
For the former, with constant overheating, corrosion is activated, for the latter, the risk of a short circuit increases.

Finally, a narrow gap is very quickly clogged with dust, which can be extremely inconvenient to remove during cleaning.. If you leave the dust where it has accumulated, then overheating and problems with heat dissipation will begin to appear fairly quickly.

It is on the basis of these considerations that experts decide what distance between the wall and the radiator must be maintained. Well, how to put it into practice, we will tell below.

Mounting technique

wall variant

When doing installation work with your own hands, it is much easier to fix the battery on the wall. This task is less time consuming compared to floor installation, but all operations must be performed very high quality.

The installation process itself includes the following steps:

Stage of work	Operations in progress
Site preparation	Select the location where the battery will be mounted. As a rule, heating radiators are placed under window sills or along walls, at some distance from front door- so we will ensure the most uniform distribution of heat flows. We bring communications - or electrical wires connected as a separate circuit through an RCD. We glue the wall behind the radiator with a polymer-based foil heat-insulating material, which will act as a thermal mirror.
markup	We apply markings on the surface for installing the battery (in principle, this must be taken into account when buying a radiator, but duplication will not be out of place here): From the floor to the bottom edge - 80-100 mm. From the top edge to the window sill - 80 - 100 mm. Width - no more than 80% of the window width.
Fastener installation	According to the marking in the bearing surface, we drill nests for installing fasteners. We hammer plastic or metal dowels into the nests. We screw the fasteners in such a way that the penetration into the thickness of the wall is at least 60 mm.
Radiator installation	We hang the battery on the brackets, fix it if necessary and carefully align it. We connect the radiator to communications and, if possible, perform a test run. It is especially important to check the tightness of the connections for water batteries, since in apartment buildings at the beginning of the heating season, “unpleasant surprises” are possible.

As you can see, the instructions are not complicated, but you need to control the quality of the work at each stage.

floor version

Sometimes the battery is too heavy to hang on the wall - there is a risk that the material simply can not stand it. In this case, installation is carried out using floor brackets. Yes, the price of such products will be slightly higher than that of wall mounts, however, the safety margin is incomparable.

The installation process itself involves the following steps:

Choose a pair of brackets that have enough load capacity to support the weight of the battery.
We install racks on the base of the floor, which we fix with anchors. We select the distance from the wall in such a way that the minimum gap between it and the mounted radiator is 60 mm.

Advice!
It is better to mount the floor brackets before pouring the screed - so we can mask the attachment point.

We fill the screed, hiding the bases of the brackets and the caps of the fixing anchors.
We put hooks on the racks, which we set to the desired height and fix with bolts. If the product package provides for this, we install metal gaskets that will protect the radiator material at the point of contact with the hook.
We hang the radiator on the hooks, which we then carefully align.

Despite the great complexity of implementation, this system has obvious advantages: the load from the battery is transferred not to the wall, but to the floor, so the risk of loose fasteners is minimal.

Conclusion

It is possible to provide the distance between the wall and the heating radiator necessary for effective heat transfer different ways. At the same time, it is important to make this gap sufficient so that the air in the gap circulates freely, making the heating of the room as efficient as possible. For a more detailed study of the technique, you should watch the video in this article.

Heating in an apartment is the right and inexpensive way to return heat to your apartment. In addition, this cannot be called a complicated process, it is only important to observe all the nuances of installation and installation rules.

Battery connection examples.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to consider some of the nuances:

Battery connection can be trusted qualified specialist who will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

It is not worth replacing the battery on your own, but it is better to entrust this matter to a specialist, who bears all responsibility for further malfunctions in the operation of the radiator. In addition, when replacing with your own hands, there are risks of leaving without water all the residents of the house, whose apartments are located along the riser. Water before work in the apartment should be blocked only by employees of the housing office who have the appropriate qualifications.
If the pipe bending method and gas welding work are used during installation and replacement, then the work must also be carried out by workers with certain qualifications for carrying out work with increased safety.

Radiator selection

There is a wide range of radiators on the market today, designed for different customers. The principle “the more expensive the better” does not always work here. You need to make your choice based on the following reasons:

place of residence;
heating system wiring;
on how it will be necessary to install heating radiators;
temperature regime in the heating system;
accounting for what material was used in the production of pipes;
the need for control elements and fittings;
the location of the premises in the building.

Having made this analysis, you can proceed to the choice of battery.

Today, cast-iron radiators can look quite presentable, they can be decorated. Thus, they can easily fit into the overall design of the room.

Cast iron radiators modern type- these are no longer huge accordions that were in the Soviet apartment, but flat panels with smoothed corners and a presentable appearance. Having good physical heating properties, cast iron retains heat for a long time and gradually releases it into the room. Such radiators have a long service life, 20-50 years. The main disadvantage is the large weight (one section weighs about 8 kg), so it is impossible to mount them correctly in rooms where the walls are made of wood, drywall. Having a rough surface, they are not very easy to clean.

Aluminum radiators differ little in design from cast iron ones, the only difference is the weight of the sections (1 kg). Also, such devices have good heat transfer qualities, a smooth surface, ventilation windows evenly distribute air in the room, they can be fixed to any surface. The main disadvantage is easy perception chemical composition water and pressure surges in the pipeline.

Bimetal radiators are a compromise solution between cast iron and aluminum. Outwardly, they almost do not differ from aluminum ones, but they are not sensitive to the composition of water and pressure surges. They have good heat transfer performance, are easy to install and inexpensive.

Steel radiators have a panel appearance and embossed surface. Have a variety of connection options, good thermal properties. No major deficiencies were identified.

Radiator Installation Rules

Before replacing, you need to coordinate with the specialists the installation scheme, which will allow you to correctly perform installation work and heat the room efficiently. It is necessary to follow the sequence of actions:

Turn off the water in the apartment and at a specific site.
Drain the water from the area to be replaced.
Blow out the pipes and remove the remaining water.
Install a new battery according to the installation instructions and the manufacturer's recommendations.
After installation, test the system for leaks and operation of the radiator sections.

Attention! When choosing a radiator, consider the temperature heating power, the area for normal heating with a certain number of sections, and the operating pressure of the coolant.

Rules for installing a radiator in accordance with SNiP

Installation of radiators in the room must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.01-85.

There must be at least 2 cm from the radiator to the wall.

The norm for installing radiators correctly involves mounting the battery relative to the center of the window: the center of the window and the battery must match, with an error of no more than 2 cm.
The width of the battery should be equal to 50-70% of the width of the window sill.
The height of the battery above the floor should not be more than 12 cm from the finished floor, the distance from the top edge of the battery to the window sill should not be more than 5 cm.
The distance from the radiator to the wall is 2-5 cm. As an exception, a special treatment of the wall with a heat-reflecting material can serve.

Attention! Do not install the radiator too close to the floor and wall, as this affects the heat transfer performance. In single-pipe heating systems, it is impossible to use more sections than before. In systems with artificial water circulation, if the number of sections is more than 24, a versatile method of connecting heating devices must be used during installation.

Rules for installing aluminum radiators

Correctly assemble the radiator by screwing in the radiator plugs with gaskets, install thermostatic valves, shut-off valves, Mayevsky valve.
Guided by the general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the attachment points.
If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and attach the brackets to the wall.
Fasten the radiator to the brackets, placing the hooks between the sections, and connect it to a centralized or room.

mount aluminum radiators it is possible both in one-pipe and in two-pipe heating systems with vertical and horizontal pipelines. Today's market can offer two types of aluminum radiators: reinforced radiators with pressure up to 16 atm., which are used for heating high-rise buildings, and European aluminum radiators up to 6 atm., used for heating in autonomous heating systems.

Rules for the installation of cast iron and bimetallic radiators

The process is not much different from the installation of aluminum. It is important here not to overload the wall, but it is recommended to install them at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the battery, which leads to low heat transfer from the device.

Before installation, you need to unscrew the radiator correctly, tighten the nipples, and put everything back together again. IN wooden houses, having a weaker wall structure, it is provided for mounting not on brackets, but on floor stands, while mounting on the wall has a supporting function.

The heat supply system is an integral part of engineering systems installed in every home. And its arrangement must be treated with special attention. This also applies to the assembly of pipelines, and hanging heating radiators. After all, even a small malfunction can lead to global consequences, so it is important to know how to properly hang a heating radiator.

Work on the installation of radiators must begin with the definition of their connection scheme. In practice, 3 methods are used, they are defined by building codes:

Side. They are used very often, since it is he who provides the maximum thermal return.
Diagonal. Most effective when connecting long heaters.
Bottom connection. They are used for heat supply systems from pipes, which are placed directly under the floor covering.

Instructions for installing heating radiators

After the connection diagrams are determined and heating batteries are purchased, it is necessary to find and carefully study SNiP 3.05.01 - 85. It sets out the requirements for installing heating radiators. Most manufacturing companies attach detailed instructions for installing heaters to their products. If you follow the requirements of regulatory and operational documentation, then problems with the installation of radiators should not arise.

The main requirement is compliance with the dimensions of fixing the heating battery relative to the floor and wall. Otherwise, the heated air will circulate poorly, and the efficiency of the thermal device will drop dramatically. The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that the distance to inner surface window sill and to the floor covering should not be less than 100 mm. Practice shows that 120 mm will be optimal.

Distance from the inner wall of the niche to rear surface the radiator should not be less than ¾ of the depth of the mounted battery. If the specified dimensions are not observed, then, as already noted, the efficiency of the heat flow will decrease. If the heater is not mounted in a niche located under the window, but directly next to the wall, then the marked distances should not be less than 200 mm. Neglect of the set indicators will lead to difficulty in the movement of warm air and accumulation of dust on the rear wall.

What tool is needed for installation work

In order to carry out the work of installing a heating battery, it is necessary to carry out a little preparatory work and prepare a tool.

Useful for installation:

perforator;
drill (its diameter is determined by the size of the dowel into which the bracket will be screwed);
roulette;
building level;
locksmith tool.

The procedure for assembling a heating radiator

Before starting the installation of the battery, it is necessary to determine the installation location of the fasteners. The number of fasteners is determined by the dimensions of the heater. But even when installing a radiator with minimum dimensions, the number of attachment points should not be less than three.

The next step is to install the battery mounting brackets. To increase the reliability of the system, dowels or cement mortar can be used. Work on installing the battery must begin with checking the complete set of the radiator. Then you can proceed to install the components (plugs, fasteners, adapters) on the heating device.

The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that automatic air vents must be installed on heating radiators. If possible, it is advisable to use a Mayevsky crane.

Crane "Mayevsky"

In addition to the installed devices on the heating radiator, it makes sense to mount at the inlet and outlet Ball Valves. Their presence will avoid difficulties with dismantling if necessary to repair it. By closing the taps, the radiator can be safely removed.

It will not be superfluous to install thermostats. Their presence will allow you to regulate the heat supply to the heating devices, which will create a comfortable temperature in each room.

After installing all the devices and fittings, you can connect the pipelines. The method of their connection to the radiator (traditional welding, crimping or threaded connection) depends on the scheme for including it in the heat supply system. The type of connection between the pipes and the battery is determined by the material from which they are made.

At the last stage, it is necessary to test the heat supply system. It must be remembered that during the tests, pipes and radiators are supplied with pressure 1.5-2 times higher than the nominal pressure. It is desirable to maintain the system under high pressure for some time. This will help installers see how pipe joints and radiator connections behave.

Important! The coolant must be supplied both during tests and when the system is started, gradually opening the tap. Otherwise, a phenomenon such as water hammer can be provoked, which can lead to the destruction of the components of the thermal energy supply system.

After mounting the radiator on the installed fasteners, it is necessary to check the correctness of its placement in the horizontal and vertical planes.

It is allowed to raise the edge of the radiator, on which the air vent is located. This will ensure that the air that has entered the system is collected at the highest possible point, and its release will be carried out quickly and with maximum efficiency.

But a change in level of more than one centimeter is unacceptable, as well as a reverse slope. In this case, the formation of an air pocket is guaranteed, and the supply of coolant further along the pipeline will be limited or stopped.

Advice! Almost all heating companies require installers to install only on pre-prepared walls. That is, the surface must be flat and clean. This will allow for the correct marking of places for fasteners.

The heating radiator is hung on two hooks (brackets), which are located in the upper part, and the third must be installed as a support for the lower edge of the device. The installer must remember that the number of brackets is determined by the weight and length of the battery.

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and already inefficient radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems to be a very difficult job, available only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the proper attitude to business and the availability of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Rules for the location of the battery and wiring diagrams

In addition to the characteristics it is very important, one of the factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right place to locate the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in place of the old cast iron one, which has been since the building was built. But still, here are a few recommendations for the proper placement of the radiator.

Firstly, it is desirable to place the battery under the window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which cold from the street enters an apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of " thermal curtain, interfering with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width. What is it and how to install it, you can see on our page.

Secondly, from the floor to the radiator should be at least 80-120 mm. If there is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires warming up and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, a too small distance to the window sill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and the movement of warm air flows are disturbed, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes part of the heat in vain.

Table. Standard schemes for connecting heating batteries.

Name	Description
	Due to the specifics of the location of the risers of heating systems in residential buildings, such a battery connection scheme is the most common. It is quite easy to implement, the efficiency of the radiator is average. The main disadvantages of this connection method are visible pipes and inability to fit batteries with a large number of sections.
	The second most common radiator connection scheme. The main advantage is the uniform circulation of water throughout the battery, and, as a result, high efficiency.
	This scheme is often used in country houses- many owners of cottages prefer to hide heating communications under the floor so that they do not spoil the appearance of the room. But at the same time, the lower connection of the radiator is 12-15% less efficient than the diagonal one.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step by step instructions

Let's consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery connected sideways to a single-pipe heating system. It is worth saying that in this case, the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, because the supply and bypass are made of metal-plastic pipes. Before the beginning self installation batteries, familiarize yourself with the device and characteristics of the heating system at home. Perhaps, for your apartment or cottage, connecting pipes will need to be made from materials with greater resistance to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

dismantling the old radiator;
installation of a new bypass and shutoff valves;
installation of the battery and its connection to the eyeliner.

Preparation for work. Dismantling the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery begins with the preparation of the tool and the dismantling of the old radiator. In this example, we will talk about a standard cast iron product, which still heats many apartments. How are they installed , you can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring home a new battery. Unpack it, check the completeness - whether everything you bought is in place. Also inspect the radiator itself - whether it has any damage or defects.

Step 2 Cut the packaging from under the new battery into two equal parts. Use one as a substrate for the radiator - so you will not scratch it on flooring. Put the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantled with a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from pollution.

Step 3 Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what and where should lie - finding the thing necessary for installation, but lost among the mess, can significantly slow down the work on replacing the battery.

Step 4 Dismantle the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply. First, loosen it with an adjustable wrench. If water starts to drip, screw everything back immediately - most likely, the riser was not blocked properly. And if everything is in order, work on dismantling the crane further.

Step 5 Next, disconnect the old battery and wiring from the riser. First, unscrew the nut on the thread drive. Then determine how far you can cut this thread so that you can then mount a tee connecting the inlet, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint, applied to the nut and connection of the riser with the bypass and piping, may interfere with operation. You can remove it with a regular knife with a retractable blade or a metal brush.

Step 6 Remove the battery from the mounts.

Step 7 According to the previously defined mark on the threads connecting the heating riser to the battery, trim with a grinder.

Step 8 Remove the old battery and take it to a place where it will not interfere with further work. Given the high mass of the cast-iron radiator, do this with someone if possible.

Step 9 Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they hold particularly tight, use a hammer and chisel.

Any heating system is a rather complex “organism”, in which each of the “organs” performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - it is they who are entrusted with the ultimate task of transferring thermal energy or to the premises of the house. In this capacity, familiar radiators, convectors of open or hidden installation, gaining popularity of water floor heating systems can act - pipe circuits laid in accordance with certain rules.

You may be interested in information about what is

This article will focus on heating radiators. Let us not be distracted by their diversity, structure and specifications: on our portal on these topics - enough comprehensive information. Now we are interested in another block of questions: connecting heating radiators, wiring diagrams, installing batteries. Correct installation heat exchangers, the rational use of their technical capabilities is the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even from the most expensive modern radiator there will be a low return if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should be considered when choosing radiator piping schemes?

If you take a simplified look at most heating radiators, then their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable diagram. These are two horizontal collectors, which are interconnected by vertical jumper channels through which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal that provides the necessary high heat transfer (a striking example is), or “dressed” in a special casing, the design of which assumes the maximum contact area with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

1 - Upper manifold;

2 - Lower collector;

3 - Vertical channels in the radiator sections;

4 - Heat exchanger case (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outlets on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower B3-B4). It is clear that when a radiator is connected to the pipes of the heating circuit, only two out of four outlets are connected, and the remaining two are muffled. And now, the efficiency of the installed battery largely depends on the connection scheme, that is, on the relative position of the coolant supply pipe and the outlet to the "return".

And first of all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must figure out exactly what kind of heating system is functioning or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant comes from and in which direction its flow is directed.

Single pipe heating system

In multi-storey buildings, a single-pipe system is most often used. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into the “gap” of a single pipe, through which both the coolant is supplied and its removal to the “return” side.

The coolant passes successively all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually wasting heat. It is clear that in the initial section of the riser, its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

There is another important point here. Such a one-pipe system apartment building can be organized according to the principle of top and bottom feed lyre.

On the left (item 1) the upper supply is shown - the coolant is transferred through a straight pipe to the upper point of the riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the flow direction is from top to bottom.
In order to simplify the system and save Supplies often another scheme is organized - with a bottom feed (pos. 2). In this case, radiators are installed in the same series on the pipe ascending to the upper floor, as well as on the pipe descending. This means that the direction of the coolant flow in these "branches" of one loop is reversed. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to deal with this issue - on which pipe of such a single-pipe system your radiator is installed - the optimal tie-in scheme depends on the flow direction.

A prerequisite for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name “bypass”, which is not entirely clear to some, refers to a jumper that connects the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in a single-pipe system. What is needed for, what rules are followed when installing it - read in a special publication of our portal.

The single-pipe system is widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of saving materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to figure out the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side he will be supplied to the radiator, and from which side he will exit.

Advantages and disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system

Attracting with the simplicity of its device, such a system is still somewhat alarming due to the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating on different radiators of house wiring. What is important to know about how to mount it with your own hands - read in a separate publication of our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already on the basis of the name, it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme "relies" on two pipes - separately for supply and return.

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in a multi-storey building, you can immediately see the differences.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of the flow is determined only by the relative position of the branch pipes cut into the risers. The only thing you need to know is which particular riser acts as a supply, and which one is the “return” - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some apartment residents may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Look at the illustration below:

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a single-pipe system is shown. Just one pipe is the upper supply of coolant. But on the right - a typical case of two different risers - supply and return.

The dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why was it all said. what is placed in the previous sections of the article? But the fact is that the heat transfer of the heating radiator very seriously depends on the relative position of the supply and return pipes.

Scheme of inserting a radiator into a circuit	Direction of coolant flows
Diagonal radiator connection on both sides, top inlet

Such a scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is she who is taken as the basis for calculating the heat transfer of a specific radiator model, that is, the battery power for such a connection is taken as a unit. The coolant, without encountering any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all vertical channels, ensuring maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator warms up evenly over its entire area.


Such a scheme is one of the most common in multi-storey building heating systems, as the most compact in vertical risers. It is used on risers with an upper supply of coolant, as well as on return, descending - with a lower supply. It is quite effective for small radiators. However, if the number of sections is large, then the heating may be uneven. The kinetic energy of the flow becomes insufficient to propagate the coolant to the very end of the upper supply manifold - the liquid tends to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the vertical channels closest to the entrance. Thus, in the part of the battery farthest from the entrance, stagnant zones are not excluded, which will be much colder than the opposite ones. When calculating the system, it is usually assumed that even with the optimal length of the battery, its overall heat transfer efficiency is reduced by 3–5%. Well, with long radiators, such a scheme becomes inefficient or will require some optimization (this will be discussed below) /
One-way radiator connection with top inlet

A scheme similar to the previous one, and largely repeating and even reinforcing its inherent shortcomings. It is used in the same risers of single-pipe systems, but only in schemes with a bottom supply - on an ascending pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in the total heat transfer with such a connection can be even higher - up to 20 ÷ 22%. This is due to the fact that the difference in density will also contribute to closing the movement of the coolant through the near vertical channels - the hot liquid tends upward, and therefore it is harder to pass to the remote edge of the lower radiator supply manifold. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are compensated to some extent by the fact that in the ascending pipe the general level of the coolant temperature is always higher. The circuit can be optimized by installing special devices.
Double-sided connection with bottom connection of both connections

The scheme of the lower, or as it is often called the “saddle” connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems of private houses because of the wide possibilities to hide the pipes of the heating circuit under the decorative floor surface or make them as invisible as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible efficiency losses are estimated at 10–15%. The most accessible path for the coolant in this case is the lower collector, and distribution along the vertical channels is largely due to the difference in density. As a result, the upper part of the heating battery can warm up much less than the lower one. There are certain methods and means to minimize this disadvantage.
Diagonal radiator connection on both sides, bottom inlet

Despite the apparent similarity with the first, most optimal scheme, the difference between them is very large. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach up to 20%. This is explained quite simply. The coolant has no incentives to freely penetrate to the far section of the lower radiator supply manifold - due to the difference in density, it selects the vertical channels closest to the battery inlet. As a result, with a sufficiently evenly heated top, in the lower corner opposite to the entrance, stagnation often forms, that is, the surface temperature of the battery in this area will be lower. Such a scheme is used extremely rarely in practice - it is even difficult to imagine a situation where it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The table deliberately does not mention the lower one-sided connection of the batteries. With him - the question is ambiguous, as in many radiators that suggest the possibility of such a tie-in, special adapters are provided, which essentially turn the bottom connection into one of the options discussed in the table. In addition, even for ordinary radiators, you can purchase additional equipment, in which the lower one-sided eyeliner will be structurally modified to another, more optimal option.

I must say that there are also more “exotic” tie-in schemes, for example, for high-height vertical radiators - some models from this series require a two-way connection with both connections from above. But the very design of such batteries is thought out in such a way that the heat transfer from them is maximum.

The dependence of the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator on the place of its installation in the room

In addition to the scheme for connecting radiators to the pipes of the heating circuit, the place of their installation also seriously affects the efficiency of these heat exchange devices.

First of all, certain rules for placing the radiator on the wall with respect to the adjacent structures and interior elements of the room must be observed.

The most typical location of the radiator is under window opening. In addition to the general heat transfer, the ascending convection flow creates a kind of "thermal curtain" that prevents colder air from freely penetrating from the windows.

The radiator in this place will show maximum efficiency if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, it is necessary to try to install the battery exactly in the center of the window, with a minimum deviation not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
The distance from the lower plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located on top - a shelf, a horizontal wall of a niche, etc.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, an insurmountable barrier to convection currents is created, and the battery efficiency drops sharply.
The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor surface should also be about 100÷120 mm. With a clearance of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in carrying out regular cleaning under the battery (and this is a traditional place for the accumulation of dust carried by convection air currents). And secondly, convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, “pulling up” the radiator too high, with a clearance from the floor surface of 150 mm or more, is also completely useless, since this leads to uneven distribution of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer may remain in the area bordering the floor surface air.
Finally, the radiator must be at least 20 mm away from the wall with brackets. A decrease in this gap is a violation of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust marks may soon appear on the wall.

These are indicative indicators that should be followed. However, for some radiators, there are also recommendations developed by the manufacturer on the linear parameters of the installation - they are indicated in the product manuals.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that a radiator located openly on the wall will show heat transfer much higher than one that is completely or partially covered by certain interior items. Even a window sill that is too wide can already reduce the heating efficiency by several percent. And if we take into account that many owners cannot do without thick curtains on the windows, or, for the sake of interior design, they try to cover up unsightly, nor their eyes, radiators with the help of facade decorative screens or even completely closed casings, then the calculated battery power may not enough to fully heat the room.

Heat transfer losses, depending on the installation of a heating radiator on the walls, are shown in the table below.

Illustration	The influence of the shown placement on the heat transfer of the radiator
	The radiator is located on the wall completely open, or installed under the window sill, which covers no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both main heat transfer paths - both convection and thermal radiation - are completely preserved. Efficiency can be taken as a unit.
	A window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. For infrared radiation, this does not matter, but the convection flow is already facing a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total thermal power of the battery.
	In this case, not a window sill or shelf on top, but the upper wall of a wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already somewhat greater - up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be wasted on heating the very heat-intensive material of the wall.
	The radiator from the front is covered with a decorative screen, but the clearance for air convection is sufficient. The loss is precisely in thermal infrared radiation, which especially affects the efficiency of cast iron and bimetallic batteries. Heat transfer losses with such an installation reach 10÷12%.
	The heating radiator is covered with a decorative casing completely, from all sides. It is clear that in such a casing there are gratings or slot-like holes for air circulation, but both convection and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach up to 20 - 25% of the calculated battery power.

So, it is obvious that the owners are free to change some of the nuances of installing heating radiators in the direction of increasing the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes the space is so limited that you have to put up with the existing conditions regarding both the location of the pipes of the heating circuit and the free area on the surface of the walls. Another option - the desire to hide the batteries from the eyes prevails over common sense, and the installation of screens or decorative casings is a matter already decided. This means that in any case, it will be necessary to make adjustments for the total power of the radiators in order to guarantee that the room required level heating. Correctly make the appropriate adjustments will help the calculator below.

Installing batteries is an important process that affects the performance of the entire heating system of a private house or apartment. It is necessary to pay attention not only to the quality of plumbing connections, but also to compliance with air gaps to the window sill, floor and walls. More about this in our article.

Radiator mounting

The modern market for buyers has a large selection of different materials and options for radiators.

According to the methods of fastening, they are all divided into the following groups:

floor standing- equipped with small legs, installed directly on the floor of the premises. This option allows you to guarantee the required thermal clearance to the window sill and the lower horizontal surfaces of the rooms.
Mounted- fastened directly to metal brackets fixed in the outer walls of a house or apartment.

The required distance from the wall to the heating radiator is best provided for products mounted on the vertical surfaces of the room, which is ensured by the special shape of the brackets. At floor types this parameter must be adjusted by yourself.

Influence of the gap between the wall and the radiator

Many novice home craftsmen do not understand the importance of the need to adjust the mandatory gap between the batteries and the outer walls. This ultimately leads to a significant increase in unreasonable costs for heating the house. Let's dwell on the problem in more detail.

The outer wall is in constant contact with the surrounding air, which leads to significant cooling. In the event that radiators are fixed directly on the inner surface load-bearing structures, the main part of the heat will be spent not on heating the air during indoor areas at home, but for heating the material of the walls.

The low thermal insulation properties of concrete products will not allow maintaining an acceptable internal microclimate. Up to 70% of thermal energy in the case when the distance between the wall and the heating radiator will be minimally spent on heating the atmosphere. Therefore, by moving the heater a short distance, they create the necessary air insulation, which reduces unreasonable expenses.

How to determine the required distance

Many construction works, carried out inside residential premises, are regulated by building codes and regulations (SNiPs). There is also a SNiP for the installation of heating batteries.

From it you can not only find out what distance between the wall and the radiator must be observed, but also other parameters for its installation:

the device should be placed directly under the windows so that the centers of the opening and the battery coincide;
the width of the heater should not exceed 70% of the width of the window sill niche, if any;
the distance to the floor should not exceed 12 cm, to the windowsill - 5 cm;
the distance to the wall lies within 2-5 cm.

There are several parameters that affect the choice of the optimal clearance. Most often, it is influenced by the material of the walls of the house and the size of the window sills. In some rooms, an unsightly picture can be observed when the batteries protrude significantly beyond its limits.

Note!
A significant reduction in the gap between the wall and appliances of heating systems is facilitated by additional surface treatment of vertical structures with special heat-reflecting materials, the price of which is affordable.
These include foil insulation or aluminum foil screens.

Installation of a heating radiator

The main way to adjust the required distance to the walls is the high-quality and competent installation of heating devices with your own hands or with the help of specialists. Let's dwell on this aspect in more detail.

Installation of floor views

This mounting option is optimal for products that have a high mass and are most often made of cast iron. Such batteries are equipped with removable or stationary legs, which are fixed to the floor. Depending on the base material, fastening can be carried out with wood screws, self-tapping screws and plastic dowels, dowel-nails.

A wall bracket is also a necessary element for mounting a floor heater. It is set to the required height, which is determined as the desired distance from the floor to the upper longitudinal pipe of the radiator, taking into account the gap. With the help of fasteners and marking the places of their installation, they achieve the optimal distance to the floor, wall and window sill.

We hang a wall radiator

Each heater is equipped with one or another type of suspension used for installation on walls. The material and strength characteristics of the brackets must correspond to the mass of the heating room, taking into account its filling with coolant. Otherwise, the system may leak.

Before direct installation, it is necessary to determine the installation location and the required distances to the main surfaces.

To do this, perform the following steps:

Let's determine the center of the window and apply the markup to the wall to be aligned with the center of the radiator in the future.
Let's measure the distance from the lower edge of the batteries to the top pipe and add 12 cm. We set aside this size from the floor at the places where the brackets are installed, checking the horizontalness of the attachment points according to the level.
In the places where the hangers are installed, we drill holes with a Pobedite drill, install dowels in them and fix the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Note!
A similar instruction is attached to each package of sold radiators.
Differences may lie in the specific type of suspensions and the features of their installation.

Summing up

As part of this article, we examined at what distance from the wall to hang a radiator, what it affects and how it is carried out directly during the installation of the heating system. For more information on this topic, see the video in this article.