Do-it-yourself sandblasting drawings. Sandblasting machine: principle of operation, areas of application. Do-it-yourself sandblasting from a gas cylinder: step by step instructions

The principle of operation of the sandblaster

Compressor types for sandblasting machines

Features and characteristics of the pistol

Personal protection of the sandblaster

Room for working with a sandblaster

DIY sandblasting machine

As you can see, these are rather big products, both in weight and in value. Is it possible to make a sandblasting device for 1-2 liters from scrap materials, spending a minimum of money? This is quite possible, especially if you have a spray gun at hand.
In everyday life, they can be used to clean rusted metal tools and parts, elements metal gate before painting, removing dirt from the surfaces of adjoining and garden paths, tiled or cemented.

Manufacturing process of a simple sandblaster

Work safety

Sandblasting (more precisely - abrasive blasting, see below) the most affordable way cleaning heavily soiled surfaces of parts made of hard materials. The performance of sandblasting, or simply sandblasting, allows the same installation to be used for processing both very large and small parts of complex shape, see fig. right below. Sandblasting matting of silicate glass, incl. artistic, many times more productive than manual, gives more quality result, but at the same time much safer than chemical. This article provides information on how to make an apparatus for abrasive blasting - sandblast with your own hands and use it correctly in compliance with safety standards: sandblasting, for all its advantages, is still a very harmful production process.

Initial conditions

The principle of abrasive blasting - abrasive particles are introduced into a strong jet of air or water-air suspension (see below). In a jet, they both accelerate to a speed of several hundred km / h and twist. If you direct such a jet to a part, the effect of an abrasive on its surface will be comparable in strength to that of a hard abrasive tool, but much "softer"; the abrasive jet spreads over the surface to be treated and the treatment takes place practically without disturbing its configuration. Matting of hard materials by abrasive blasting is possible using abrasives equal to the hardness of the material being processed and even slightly less. Have you ever wondered how diamonds are sawn, cut and polished? Diamond powder. But in both cases, a large amount of abrasive dust is formed, destructively acting on literally everything, living and nonliving, natural and man-made. Therefore, a do-it-yourself sandblaster is not enough; in the end it's not that hard, see below. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the basics of safety regulations for abrasive blasting. Secondly, to determine for what purposes you need sandblasting and whether the additional equipment necessary for its launch is available - an air compressor or a car or household washing machine. Thirdly, remember if you have a garage or workshop, either already equipped for sandblasting, or suitable for such a conversion. It is not difficult, but without it, using sandblasting means ruining yourself. And finally, if you intend to carry out pneumatic sandblasting, then see if there is a place in the garage / workshop for installing a sandblasting chamber, see below.

Safety engineering

Descriptions of the harmful effects of abrasive dust on everything generally occupy volumes. The regulatory documents governing the procedure for the production of abrasive blasting works and the safety rules for them are also. Therefore, in order to understand the essence from which all this follows, we will learn in comparison. Moreover, a pneumatic sandblasting gun can now be bought in almost every tool store or made with your own hands, see below.

Sandblasting can be carried out at dedicated production sites, in rooms and chambers specially equipped for this purpose, see below. Sandblasting is pneumatic, or dry and hydro, or wet. Hydro-sandblasting produces less dust, but more impregnates the surface to be treated with an abrasive, see below. Abrasive powder during hydro-sandblasting quickly loses its quality and is most often used once; the abrasive after pneumo-sandblasting in the chamber (see below) can be reused after simple cleaning.

The ammunition of the sandblaster on the site is similar to the space suit of the grated space wolf from old fiction, pos. 1 in fig. The similarity is enhanced by the fact that air is blown into a helmet with a cape to prevent abrasive dust from entering it - its effect on the body through the skin is no less destructive than through the respiratory system.

A sandblaster in a special room can work in an ordinary robe and a soft helmet, but also necessarily with a pressurized cap and a cap, pos. 2. Hydro-sandblasting in a special room can be performed using conventional PPE (pos. 3), as well as pneumatic sandblasting in the chamber - provided that this enterprise is not the main production process and is performed no more than 1.5-2 hours per shift. But brave young people in pos. 4 and 5 should be compared with something.

Sandblaster in production enjoy the following benefits (limits - depending on local legislation):

• The rate according to the tariff scale is 1–2 categories higher than that of the “harmless people”.
• To her - an additional payment for harm of 25-100%
• After 5-20 years of work - life-long medical insurance at the expense of the employer or government services.
• Shortened shift, 4-6 hours.
• Increased annual paid vacation, 30-45 calendar days.
• Possibility of retirement at 40-50 years old, subject to continuous work experience in this specialty.
• The accrual of work experience on sandblasting for calculating the pension is a year for 1.5 or 2.

And this is in the modern world, where in many extremely democratic states the minimum wage is legalized below the subsistence level, a 6-day working week, a 10-12 hour working day and paid leave every 2-3 years for 10-15 days! And with all this of the retired sandblasting veterans live up to 60 units! Think about it.

Camera and room

It makes no sense to clutter up the article with information about the rules for the placement and equipment of sites and hangars for sandblasting - they are impracticable in home-garage conditions. If you have already decided to make a sandblasting machine, you have a choice of 2 options: for dry processing - a sandblasting chamber; for a workshop / garage with it and hydrosandblasting - a room with supply and exhaust ventilation (PVV).

The sandblasting chamber is a dust-tight casing from the inside (item 1 in the figure); all connections and seals are rated for internal overpressure (item 2, top right). They work in the cell with their hands in rubber sleeves with gloves, pos. 2. The viewing glass and shades of the camera lighting lamps are made replaceable from silicate glass. they quickly turn cloudy from abrasive dust.

Air saturated with dust from the chamber exits through a 2-stage filter (pos. 4): first, through a soft lamellar-curtain (curtain made of technical fabric cut into strips, shown by an arrow at pos. 2) into the buffer chamber B, and from it through the filter material , ensuring cleaning is not lower than the 5th level, and holes in the casing (shown with an arrow in pos. 1) - outward. The loading hatch should preferably be located on the side opposite to the wall with the filter, pos. 3. A mesh hearth is installed in the chamber to accommodate the processed parts; under the hearth there is a hopper for collecting the spent abrasive.

Note: air purification from abrasive dust not lower than 5th is provided by a layer of lining padding polyester from 25 cm, counting to the nearest outlet. The thickness of the filtering layer between the blank filter walls is from 80 mm.

The room with the sandblasting chamber is equipped with a PVH with a fan on the hood. Extraction capacity - not less than 1.5 of the limiting capacity of the compressor for sandblasting (see below). The hood must have an oil-mesh filter of at least 4 links. Each link is a frame with a thick steel mesh (mesh - 1.5-3 mm) moistened with non-drying oil. The filter must be regularly washed and the washed mesh should be moistened with oil.

Nozzles and abrasive for sandblasting

A lot depends on the nozzle of the sandblasting machine, through which the abrasive jet is ejected: the very nature of the processing process, its quality, the consumption of abrasive and air. And from the latter - the required compressor performance (see below), which is important in an amateur environment or for a power supply. Therefore, before figuring out how to make sandblasting yourself, you need to figure out what to do with nozzles for it.

First, do not sandblast steel nozzles: they lose the desired profiling before the part is finished. On YouTube you can find descriptions of homemade sandblasting from ... propylene water pipes! It is inappropriate to quote them here, but they are quite fair. Sandblasting nozzles are made of boron carbide (see figure on the right and below). Nozzles made from other hard materials are either very expensive or wear out quickly; in both cases, the process turns out to be unprofitable.

Note: cheap Chinese nozzles made of porcelain and other silicate ceramics can be used if you use sandblasting for yourself occasionally. But - not for glass matting, it is impregnated (see below) with the material of the rapidly "burning" nozzle.

Second, the abrasive jet is much stronger than with manual or machining, impregnates the surface of the part with abrasive microparticles. Simply - drives them there. Microimpregnation with an abrasive can be somewhat useful - paint adheres better to the impregnated surface and adheres more firmly to it. But this same exposed surface loses its resistance to chemical attack and pollution. A way to reduce the impregnation to an acceptable level is to use an abrasive equal to or less hard than the material. Coal-slag powder (see below) can also be used to remove a pattern or ink on the mirror from the sandblasting, but it is worth wiping it 2-3 times with a detergent, and irreducible dirt will appear on the pattern.

Ordinary river and gully sand is absolutely unsuitable for abrasive blasting: clay impurities in it impregnate the treated surface until the part is completely unusable. Irresponsible parts of the product (auto disks, underbody, etc.) are treated with coal-slag powder; it requires a compressor of lower capacity. Although the consumption of the abrasive is higher, it is much cheaper, see fig. The bodies of used cars for painting are treated with sifted rock quartz sand, and glass and especially critical items (for example, valuable vintage cars being restored) are treated with quartz quarry cleaned and carefully fractionated. Fractions from 0.05 (artistic glass matting) to 0.2 mm (cleaning from sintered dirt).

Homemade nozzles

The nozzle for sandblasting is not cheap, and wears out quite quickly. "China" is good only to peel off the caked dirt before finishing, but the dense film of hydroxide on metals is already bad. At the same time, a hollow cylindrical sleeve of suitable dimensions made of boron carbide can be purchased much cheaper than a profiled nozzle made of boron carbide. But is it possible at home to process a material that, in theory, is taken only with a diamond?

Sandblasting nozzle profiles are simple. Straight lines (pos. 1 in the figure) are used for preliminary cleaning of surfaces and in general in most cases. A bell at the inlet of the nozzle is necessary - without it, the jet will be weak and it will only “eat” the nozzle and dust, and not clean the part. Venturi nozzles, giving a strong wide homogeneous jet (pos. 2) are used for finishing critical surfaces; abrasive and air consumption through Venturi nozzle approx. twice as much as through a straight line. Taper nozzles (item 3) are used to stencil glass matting: a jet from other nozzles can pierce the stencil to holes, and the whole work will be ruined.

You can convert the boron carbide round bushing into a sandblasting nozzle insert using conical or cylindrical-conical grinding heads (cones) of the same material, pos. 4. You just have to grind a threaded steel clip. Straight nozzle inserts (pos. 5 and 6) can be made on a bench-top drilling machine by turning the socket in the sleeve with a roller cutter 30-45 degrees. To convert it, or an inexpensive straight nozzle into a tapering one (pos. 7-9), you will need a lathe: the cutter is fixed in the tailstock as a chuck with a drill, and the workpiece is in the spindle. The filing in both cases is manual, the most delicate: you are not punching a hole, but grind down the fragile fragile! Do not pour the emulsion under any circumstances!

Types of sandblasting machines

Homemade sandblasting machine can be made on one of the trails. schemes:

1. Pneumatic injection gravity - the abrasive is fed into the air stream under the action of gravity. It is necessary to make or buy only a nozzle and, possibly, a pulsator, but the consumption of the abrasive is huge, the operating mode is unstable. In industry it is used for roughing rough products from dense deposits, for example. mine cars or blast furnace heads. Used in primitive sandblasting guns;
2. Pneumatic gravity ejection - also used mainly in industry, but for finishing with minimal abrasive consumption, and in medium-level sandblasting guns;
3. Pneumatic injection with supercharging is the most common type. It is carried out in the form of a stationary installation or a mini-pneumatic pistol;
4. Hydro-jet - the safest and most harmless. The compressor is not needed, it works from a car or household wash for external surfaces. In garage conditions it is applicable without a camera. Restriction on use - the treated surface should be slightly sensitive to moisture.

Gravity injection

The advantage of the pneumatic injection device is that it is possible to load the abrasive into its hopper without interrupting the production process. If the production is such that cubes of abrasive are consumed per shift, this often solves the issue of its profitability. Also an important advantage - expensive wear parts in the unit of the whole nozzle and sand shutter; the latter, in amateur conditions, can be replaced with a plug valve (like a samovar tap).

The device of the gravitational injection sandblasting apparatus is shown on the left in the figure, and the drawings of the nozzles to it on the right in the same place:

The nozzle at the top right only seems to be narrowing, but it works like a Venturi nozzle: by changing the gaskets 5, it is possible to change the spray angle within certain limits. The use of such a sandblasting machine requires rather high qualifications: the operating mode is set by an inlet valve that lets air into the bunker (drain valve 13 in the figure) and a sand shutter, and the adjustments are interrelated.

Pulsating sandblasting

Reducing the consumption of abrasive and accelerating the cleaning of very heavily and densely contaminated surfaces at the cost of increased wear of the nozzle allows the transfer of gravity sandblasting to a pulsating mode. To do this, a pulsator insert is included in the rupture of the air hose, see Fig. on right. The pulsator tubes are connected with a flexible thin hose that plays the role of a resonator tube: by changing its length, they regulate the frequency and strength of the pulsations.

Gravitational ejection

In an ejection gravity abrasive blasting machine, the abrasive is poured into a dispenser equipped with an air check valve, and from it it is sucked through an abrasive-air pipe into the working body by a strong air stream. The nozzle of such an installation is only Venturi, precisely profiled along the curved generatrices; the working body is an air ejector of a rather complex design.

The device and drawings of the ejector of the gravitational ejection sandblasting installation are given in Fig.:

It is easier to use such a device than the previous one: the shutter, according to the risks for this type of work, is set once the supply of abrasive, and the processing mode, if necessary, is promptly regulated by the supply of air. Plants of this type are used for especially critical work, for example, abrasive blast polishing of turbine blades and jet engine compressors.

Supercharged sandblasting

Sandblasting machines with pressurization are the easiest to operate, allow the use of nozzles of any profile and provide sufficient surface treatment in most cases (up to SA3). Therefore, both home-made sandblasting and industrial samples of low productivity for individual use are most often made according to the supercharged scheme.

Expensive manual sandblasting guns are made with bottom pressurization (left in the figure); a sand-air mixture enters the mixer. The consumption of abrasive and air is minimal, and a conventional ball valve can be used in the dispenser; it wears out pretty quickly, but in this design it never gets jammed. This tool is most suitable for delicate work: glass art, abrasive blast polishing. The disadvantage is the need to use a boron carbide profiled insert, which wears out just as quickly as the nozzle.

In stationary injection sandblasting machines, pressurized air is supplied to the bunker with abrasive, on the right in Fig. The control of the apparatus is easier than the gravity one: after the initial setting (see above), the operative adjustment of the supply of air and abrasive as the latter is consumed is required only at the end, when the very remnants of the hopper “get”. However, after additional loading of the abrasive, in which the pressure from the bunker is released, the installation takes up to 20 minutes, and the bunker itself is more complicated and more expensive, because must be sealed. A sand ball valve in a continuous stream of abrasive often jams and the profiled insert of the mixer very quickly becomes unusable, so the mixer dispenser is made with an oblique feed and a damper valve, the inset in the center in Fig. In amateur conditions, the mixer can be assembled on the basis of a 120-degree water outlet, and instead of a valve-damper, a plug valve can be used, see above.

The walls of the bunker are gradually worn out by abrasive, therefore the bunker must be equipped with a pressure relief valve with a safety valve, and the entire installation is regularly inspected. The relief valve must be open during operation. It closes only during the initial supply of pressure to the hopper and additional loading of the abrasive, because by a pressure surge when the loading valve slams shut, the safety valve can completely tear out.

Note: normal air pressure for the operation of all pneumatic sandblasting units is 4.2-6 bar. If you come across a description of sandblasting for 2-3 "atmospheres", do not believe your eyes. This toy is unhealthy and unsuitable for serious work.

Homemade tricks

The sandblasting machine is technically simple in general, but due to the difficult working conditions - under considerable pressure, in an aggressive environment - its design and manufacture is a rather difficult task. The difficulties arising in this case are bypassed by amateur home-made people sometimes in rather clever ways. That's why they are, after all, craftsmen.

Tank bunker

Abrasive consumption for all types of sandblasting, except for artistic polishing, is very high. A domestic gas cylinder or, say, a car receiver, these are already vessels of sufficiently large capacity, designed to work under pressure and are almost not subject to operational wear. It is easier to insert a simple tip with a nozzle into a sandblasting chamber, and it is easier to wield it with thick rubber gloves than a pistol. Therefore, many amateurs make themselves sandblasting with an abrasive hopper from a gas cylinder.

However, if you just convert the cylinder into a sandblasting bunker with pressurized sandblasting (item 1 in the figure), then an unpleasant phenomenon is immediately discovered in the work: the powder in the bunker is still half or a third, and the installation begins to snort and spit in clouds of dust instead of do your thing. The reason is the suction of air through the abrasive in the hopper, pos. 2. It is possible to avoid it by quickly adjusting the boost, but this is no longer work, but alone. Therefore, it is better not to be too lazy right away, cut off the top of the cylinder (which will now be the bottom of the hopper) and weld on instead of it a cone-sealant of an abrasive from galvanized galvanized from 0.6 mm, pos. 3. There will be no suction even with a primitive mixer from a straight water supply tee, pos. 3b.

Especially successful is the author's find of a mini-sandblasting with a bunker made of plastic bottle, pos. 4. Spiral ribs on the high neck of the bottle slightly, but swirl the flow of sand before it enters the mixer. This equally primitive sandblasting tool, based on what seems to be an inexpensive, versatile working airgun, is probably suitable for very delicate jobs.

Sandblasting weapon

It is convenient to use a sandblasting gun to clean large areas for painting, for example. the bodies of used cars, so they are well sold out, and amateurs adapt painting or universal working pneumatic guns for sandblasting. Most often - according to the gravitational injection scheme; less often - according to the scheme with lower supercharging. Some are not too lazy to make analogs of industrial designs, see, for example, video:

Industrial samples of high-quality sandblasting guns are made according to the pneumatic ejection scheme - ejection sandblasting consumes a minimum of abrasive, and so on. least dusty. Instead of a hopper, the abrasive is poured into a plastic bag without the slightest holes. The intake device is a piece of rigid pipe tightly inserted into the supply end of the abrasive-air hose. The neck of the bag with abrasive is tied tightly around the intake pipe - and atmosphere pressure helps ejection well by squeezing the bag as the powder is consumed.

The assortment of factory-made sandblasting guns (left in the picture) is quite wide on sale. On Alibaba, etc. sandblasting nozzles for working pneumatic guns are sold with might and main, in the center. If you take, then for general work, choose ejection ones as the safest and less abrasive consumption per square of the treated surface than others. For fine and artistic work, a pistol or a lower blower nozzle is more suitable, see above, but these are more expensive.

The same Chinese trade with might and main and nozzles for sandblasting with a standard plumbing thread. An ejection abrasive blasting nozzle for such a nozzle can be made from parts of a water supply system; the joints are necessarily sealed with FUM tape, on the right in Fig. Such a sandblast will not last long, but it is suitable for occasional use over small areas.

However, in any case, do not forget - we are talking about your own health in the distant and not so distant future. Therefore, work only on a site that is at least 150 m away from residential buildings, poultry and livestock farms, cultural plantations, water points, parks and forests.There must be at least 500 m. The effect of abrasive dust depends not only on its type and concentration, but also on the exposure time. If it does not exceed 2-3 hours a day in portions of 15-20 minutes with breaks of 5-10 minutes, then it is possible to do without full ammunition on the site, but a light one is still needed:

1. A soft, supercharged helmet with a cape, or, better, a gas mask and a head cover with a neck and shoulder protector used by builders and concrete workers;
2. One-piece jumpsuit made of dustproof fabric or a robe made of trousers with a belt and a jacket with a hem with a tight elastic band;
3. Sleeve and leg cuffs - with rubber cuffs from 7 cm wide;
4. Ankle boots (must be worn under trousers!).

Note: when working with sandblasting irregularly for no more than 20 minutes a day, to protect the respiratory system, you can use a helmet with an unpressurized cape and a petal respirator.

Hydrosandblasting

Hydroblasting can be done regularly in normal garage or site conditions, using conventional PPE as well. The bodies of old cars after cleaning with hydro-sandblasting are quite suitable for painting; removal of the site or workshop from the above objects - from 50 m. Hydro-sandblasting is activated without a compressor from a portable car wash or household "spray" for windows and showcases. Therefore, special attention should be paid to hydro-sandblasting.

A diagram of the device of a hydrosandblasting installation with a drive from a portable washer is given on the left in the figure:

Drawing of the simplest nozzle from the parts of the water supply system for hydro-sandblasting - on the right; inset - her appearance... The principle of operation is ejection. However, such a nozzle works with some washers, but not with others, and the limits of adjusting the jet density and abrasive flow rate and with a suitable drive are insufficient. The reason is the oblique concentrated supply of the abrasive-air mixture to the ejector.

The nozzle with a coaxial water supply and an abrasive-air mixture works stably with any car and household washing installations. For example, the nozzle, the drawings of which are given in the figure, were originally developed for the Körcher car wash. But it is also suitable for any other with a thread for a standard tip G1 / 4 ”. And if the standard fit is different, then it is enough to make a connecting socket for it (see pos. 1).

Note: boron carbide nozzle insert (item 4) - ready-made. Can be replaced by another, direct or Venturi; in this case, the diameter of its narrowing ("neck" of the Venturi nozzle is 4.5-6 mm).

How to make a hydrosandblasting nozzle for a portable car wash, see also the video:

And more about Chinese nozzles

If you are an individual entrepreneur acc. profile or generally sandblasting regularly for a fee, then the best choice for you will be the purchase of a sandblasting gun: you probably already have a compressor for painting and other production needs, and the consumption of an abrasive, which also costs money, is minimal. In addition, unlike industrial sandblasting, for which there is no shortage of compressed air in production, and homemade products, there are samples of working pneumatic guns for a pressure of 2.5-3 bar on sale, i.e. they can be operated from a paint compressor. This is explained by the high accuracy of manufacturing the parts profiled along curved generatrices.

However, even with the "coolest" sandblasting gun, the nozzle sometimes wears out, and from regular use pretty soon. Buy branded? Take out half the price of a new pistol and put it down. Usual marketing policy. And here is the time to remember about the "Chinese": the ratio of their service life to that of the originals is greater than the ratio of the price of those to the "Chinese". That is, although "China" will have to be replaced more often, but in general, using an "alternative" instead of a worn-out "firm" will not cost so much.

There is only one problem here: the landing of the Chinese nozzles does not coincide with that of the "firm", and the Chinese do not make the nozzles "for the firm," because. each original manufacturer has its own configuration and dimensions of the nozzle seat. For the same marketing reasons, of course.

But - on a cunning nut there is always a bolt with a shaped thread. An adapter of 2-3 parts, for the manufacture of which a conventional lathe is enough, will allow you to adapt any Chinese nozzle to any branded sandblasting gun. For example, in Fig. - device and dimensions of the adapter for Chinese nozzles to the Matrix pneumatic gun.

If you are familiar with the principle of the spray gun, it will not be so difficult to make a sandblaster with your own hands. But in order for the device to fully meet your requirements, you should initially decide on the purpose.

It should be noted that devices of this type can be made not only for home use, but also for industrial use. It all depends on what resources you put into it.

Machine types

If you are just getting started on such equipment, it is best to start with the simplest one - a sandblasting gun.

In total, there are three types of such equipment:

• sandblasting guns;
• universal sandblasting chambers;
• pressure type apparatus.

Whichever one you choose, a powerful compressor should be chosen for each device. The factory-assembled compressor delivers up to 500 liters per minute. Thus, the device will be suitable for any use: both at home and for industrial use.

Required components

To assemble a sandblasting unit with your own hands, you need to have the following components:

• a source for supplying air under pressure;
• capacity for uninterrupted supply of abrasive material;
• nozzle;
• hose;
• pistol.

When choosing a nozzle for a sandblasting unit, pay special attention to the material of manufacture. Tungsten carbide models are the best choice. Instances made of cast iron or plastic are short-lived.

Assembly diagram

Consider the simplest option for assembling a sandblaster. The circuit looks something like this:

As for the capacity, in this case, you can use a simple plastic bottle for drinking water. But if you want to use such equipment more than once, then it is better to choose a more reliable container.

The assembly scheme is almost identical to the spray gun. The only difference is that there is sand in the tank instead of the coloring pigment. That is why the nozzle must be made of strong, durable material.

Based on the foregoing, you can use almost any drawing for assembling a sandblasting machine like a spray gun. When assembling the machine, select only the best quality components. The productivity of the equipment and the quality of the operations performed depend on this.

Capacity. If the plastic container is not suitable, a used metal can can be used. In this case, please note that the cylinder must be well cleaned of residues. When choosing a metal cylinder, take into account that you need to perform operations for threading, surface welding.

Nozzle. This is the most important part of the entire sandblasting unit. And if you can still save on capacity, then you should not do this when choosing a nozzle. You can make a nozzle yourself. To do this, you need to take a metal rod of the required diameter and bore it from the inside. The process is quite laborious, so it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made one.

It is best to choose this component from ceramic. These types of nozzles are used in dentistry. You can also choose a nozzle made of steel. They do not wear out as much as those made from conventional metal or plastic.

Hose. Only a reinforced hose should be selected for the sandblasting unit. This is due to the fact that work is done only under high pressure. The recommended inner diameter is 14 mm. The length of such a hose must be at least 2 meters.

In addition, before proceeding with the assembly, you need to have the following materials on hand:

• fum tape;
• cranes;
• hose clip;
• pipe adapters;
• fittings for hoses.

Conditionally, assembling the device with your own hands can be described in the following stages:

• in a cylinder or any other container of sand, 2 holes are made along the diameter of the pipe;
• for sand drainage, a pipe is attached at the bottom of the tank;
• taps are mounted on the pipe outlets, the joints are rolled with fum tape;
• fittings are placed on the free ends of the tee, a hose is attached to one of them;
• the first outlet on the tee is mounted for air supply, the second for sand.

Please note that when assembling the unit with your own hands, all parts must be sealed. Otherwise, the equipment will not perform its functions efficiently.

Fulfilling all the requirements correctly, the output should be a high-quality sandblasting unit. If you use a metal container for work, then a self-made device may look something like this:

The main thing is, before starting work, you need to choose the correct and most understandable drawing. Having prepared all the necessary components and correctly assembled them according to the scheme with your own hands, as a result, you can get sandblasting equipment suitable for home and even industrial use.

Pay attention to safety precautions when working with sandblasting. If work is carried out outdoors, be sure to use personal protective equipment. Compliance with all recommendations will allow you to do the work quickly, efficiently and safely.

It is convenient to use it to remove old paint, rust and other types of dirt. Using sandblasting, you can quickly and efficiently clean the most hard to reach places... Another such device can be used for engraving on glass and other materials.

The author used a small compressor as the basis for the DIY. Perhaps this is the most expensive part of the homemade product, which will cost about 3,500 rubles. As for sand, the device works great on the most common construction sand, which must be sieved through a fine sieve before refueling. If you don't want to mess around with sand, then you can buy ready-made, especially for these purposes.

Of course, all work is carried out either in a special room or in the open air. You also need to take care of the means of protection. It is necessary to protect the respiratory system from dust, and you will also need protective goggles or a mask so that sand does not get into the eyes. When working, there should be no open areas of the skin, as beating grains of sand can bite into the code or leave a wound.

In the photo you can see what the homemade product looks like. As you can see, a regular bottle was used as a filling container. A homemade product looks like a spray gun.

DIY materials and tools:
- small compressor:
- plastic bottle with a volume of 1.5-2 liters;
- water supply ball valve;
- lathe;
- ceramic nozzle (used in dental sandblasting machines);
- air hose, spanners and other elements.

Step one. How the device works
How the homemade product works can be seen in the photo. As soon as the master pulls the trigger, the pressurized air passes into the channel of the pistol, and then enters the bottle, creating high pressure in it. The bottle contains a special liner, thanks to which the sand is mixed with air. A special valve is provided to regulate the flow of the air / sand mixture. Well, then the mixture passes through a ceramic nozzle. This is, in fact, according to this principle, this sandblast works, and many others.

You should also pay attention to the mixer, a bottle cap is screwed to it with a threaded washer. The author tried to make such a plug from steel, but it did not work, as a result, it will be necessary to change worn parts from time to time.

Step three. Sandblasting machine operation
The peculiarity of this device is that it can be used for engraving on glass. To do this, the glass must first be sealed with self-adhesive film. Next, you will need to cut the drawing, in other words it can be cut out on the film before gluing. Well, then sandblast the glass. What happened in the end can be seen in the photo.

The only drawback of homemade products is that you often need to pour air into the bottle, but homemade products are not intended for work on an industrial scale. You also need to change worn-out elements from time to time. By the way, the sand that is filled into the device can be reused, but, of course, it will need to be sieved.