Installation of a heating radiator in an apartment. How easy is it to install a battery with your own hands and what is needed for this? Heating radiator piping options

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and already inefficient radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems to be a very difficult job, available only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the proper attitude to business and the availability of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Rules for the location of the battery and wiring diagrams

In addition to the characteristics it is very important, one of the factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right place to locate the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in place of the old cast iron one, which has been since the building was built. But still, here are a few recommendations for the proper placement of the radiator.

Firstly, it is desirable to place the battery under the window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which cold from the street enters an apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of " thermal curtain, interfering with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width. What is it and how to install it, you can see on our page.

Secondly, from the floor to the radiator should be at least 80-120 mm. If there is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires warming up and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, a too small distance to the window sill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and the movement of warm air flows are disturbed, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes part of the heat in vain.

Table. Standard schemes for connecting heating batteries.

Name	Description
	Due to the specifics of the location of the risers of heating systems in residential buildings, such a battery connection scheme is the most common. It is quite easy to implement, the efficiency of the radiator is average. The main disadvantages of this connection method are visible pipes and inability to fit batteries with a large number of sections.
	The second most common radiator connection scheme. The main advantage is the uniform circulation of water throughout the battery, and, as a result, high efficiency.
	This scheme is often used in country houses- many owners of cottages prefer to hide heating communications under the floor so that they do not spoil appearance rooms. But at the same time, the lower connection of the radiator is 12-15% less efficient than the diagonal one.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step by step instructions

Let's consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery connected sideways to a single-pipe heating system. It is worth saying that in this case, the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, because the supply and bypass are made of metal-plastic pipes. Before the beginning self installation batteries, familiarize yourself with the device and characteristics of the heating system at home. Perhaps, for your apartment or cottage, connecting pipes will need to be made from materials with greater resistance to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

• dismantling the old radiator;
• installation of a new bypass and shutoff valves;
• installation of the battery and its connection to the eyeliner.

Preparation for work. Dismantling the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery begins with the preparation of the tool and the dismantling of the old radiator. In this example, we will talk about a standard cast iron product, which still heats many apartments. How are they installed , you can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring home a new battery. Unpack it, check the completeness - whether everything you bought is in place. Also inspect the radiator itself - whether it has any damage or defects.

Step 2 Cut the packaging from under the new battery into two equal parts. Use one as a substrate for the radiator - so you will not scratch it on flooring. Put the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantled with a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from pollution.

Step 3 Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what and where should lie - finding the thing necessary for installation, but lost among the mess, can significantly slow down the work on replacing the battery.

Step 4 Dismantle the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply. First, loosen it with an adjustable wrench. If water starts to drip, screw everything back immediately - most likely, the riser was not blocked properly. And if everything is in order, work on dismantling the crane further.

Step 5 Next, disconnect the old battery and wiring from the riser. First, unscrew the nut on the thread drive. Then determine how far you can cut this thread so that you can then mount a tee connecting the inlet, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint, applied to the nut and connection of the riser with the bypass and piping, may interfere with operation. You can remove it with a regular knife with a retractable blade or a metal brush.

Step 6 Remove the battery from the mounts.

Step 7 According to the previously defined mark on the threads connecting the heating riser to the battery, trim with a grinder.

Step 8 Remove the old battery and take it to a place where it will not interfere with further work. Given the high mass of the cast-iron radiator, do this with someone if possible.

Step 9 Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they hold particularly tight, use a hammer and chisel.

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and already inefficient radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems to be a very difficult job, available only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the proper attitude to business and the availability of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries

Rules for the location of the battery and wiring diagrams

In addition to the characteristics of the radiator itself and the literacy of its connection, one of the most important factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is choosing the right place to locate the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in place of the old cast iron one, which has been since the building was built. But still, here are a few recommendations for the proper placement of the radiator.

How to install a radiator with your own hands

Firstly, it is desirable to place the battery under the window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which cold from the street enters an apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of "thermal curtain" that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width.

Secondly, from the floor to the radiator should be at least 80-120 mm. If there is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires warming up and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, a too small distance to the window sill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and the movement of warm air flows are disturbed, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes part of the heat in vain.

All of the above principles for placing a heating battery are presented in the diagram above.

Table. Standard schemes for connecting heating batteries.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries - detailed step-by-step instruction!

Find out how do-it-yourself heating batteries are installed! Requirements, site selection, step-by-step installation instructions, tips, photo + video.

Installing heating radiators with your own hands is a decision that should be taken seriously: after all, not everyone can do it. At the very least, you need to be prepared for such a process. Usually, if you look at the situation only amateurishly, you can get negative emergency consequences at the exit.

Installation of heating radiators

If you live in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then it is best to call specialists for this, as there is a risk of flooding not only your apartment. In a private house, you can try to carry out the installation and put homemade batteries do-it-yourself heating - however, for this you need to understand the main points of the installation.

Preliminary preparation

First, you need to decide what type of wiring was used to install the heating system. Those who arranged it should know this - one-pipe or two-pipe wiring.

And before you start installing heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to find out which heating circuit is one-pipe or two-pipe.

After all, the choice of parts and their number will depend on the wiring diagram of your heating system, photo diagrams below.

Single pipe heating system

Two-pipe heating system

What you need to install

Depending on what design features has a heating system, the number and list of parts required for installation will depend. For example, if it is single-pipe heating, then a bypass will be required. In case of malfunctions, it will be possible to turn off only the device that has this element, and the entire system will not need to be shut off - this is especially true in winter situations, when it is not very convenient to turn off the heating in frost.

The number of parts for installation is also determined by the connection diagram and the type of radiators. According to the scheme, couplings, adapters, corners and nipples are selected.

Also, installing a heating battery with your own hands will require shut-off valves. You need to select a radiator type of fittings, you should not get carried away with complex ball valves with the so-called "American", which require professional knowledge. And it will be difficult to ensure tightness without special experience in this area. To connect heating radiators with your own hands to the pipeline, you will need spurs that will correspond to the dimensions of the radiator and pipes along the thread. A sleeve will also be wound onto the sleds - after twisting it is inserted into the battery. It is worth noting that when you buy cast iron radiators, you need to check before installation whether the brackets match the material of the wall on which they will be mounted.

Stopcock installation

In order to be able to release air from the battery, you need to put a Mayevsky crane on it. As a rule, it is in the factory configuration, but if not, then buy it.

We calculate the location

Those who are going to install a heating radiator with their own hands should take into account that the sections of pipes that lead to the devices must be placed with a slope (slight) - in the direction of the movement of the heat carrier. If the gasket is strictly horizontal or there is a skew in the installation, then air will be concentrated in the batteries made of cast iron and steel. You will have to regularly blow it out manually so that the heat transfer does not decrease.

It is better if the central axis of the battery coincides with the axis that goes through the center of the window.

Deviations can be no more than 2 cm, such that will not be determined visually. But such a recommendation does not apply to strict requirements.

Marking the central axis of the radiator

Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries implies the implementation of several strict rules:

• The components of the connection to the heating radiators should be placed so that the slope is 0.005, it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. So, 1 m of the pipeline will have to slope towards the circulation - and at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination must be determined by the length of the pipe sections that are installed.
• From the floor surface to the radiator should be 6-10 cm or more.
• From the lower outline of the window sill to the upper outline of the battery - 5-10 cm.
• From the plane of the wall to the battery - 3-5 cm.
• Be sure to observe the horizontal and vertical directions.

The slope of the pipes of the heating system

To increase the performance of the radiator, it is possible to install a specialized shield made of a special heat-reflecting material before installation. Or you can just take and cover the plane of the wall with such a composition that has

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators, installation and connection, photo

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators. Marking radiators with brackets. Tools and materials for mounting radiators.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

In the old days, it was problematic to install heating radiators on your own due to welding, which was an integral part of the installation. Modern materials make it possible to do without special devices, which makes it possible to carry out the installation of heating radiators in the house with their own hands.

To carry out similar activities in the apartment, it is recommended to involve plumbers of the service company, as it will be necessary to completely disconnect the system from the main line and drain the water. Not everyone knows how to do it right, and a poor-quality connection can turn into a flood of hot water.

Determining the location of radiators

If we are talking about replacing old structures with new ones, then the question of location disappears by itself. In the case of planning a circuit diagram, it is necessary to take into account important factors according to which batteries must create reliable thermal protection. No matter how high-quality modern double-glazed windows are, they are still sources of cold air flow. That is why batteries are installed in almost all rooms below the window. But it should be borne in mind that the radiator must cover at least 70% window opening. Only then will it function effectively.

Experts recommend during installation to adhere to the following rules:

- the distance from the window sill to the top of the heater should be within 9-14 cm;

- from the bottom of the battery to the floor, a gap of 7-12 cm is required;

- between the radiator and the wall you need to leave a distance of 3-5 cm;

- place heating structure follows the center of the window opening.

Based on the listed requirements, we can summarize that the installation site should precede the choice of model. Only in the presence of certain parameters is selected the power and equipment of the sections.

Radiator connection options

The diagonal method involves connecting the supply pipe to the upper part of the heater, and the return pipe from below, but located on the other side;

The bottom connection is made at the bottom of the battery on opposite sides;

The lateral or one-sided method is more often used when vertical pattern wiring with connection to the right or left side of the radiator.

Do-it-yourself installation steps for heating radiators

1. Preparatory work provide for the dismantling of old structures, if necessary. The system must first be completely drained of water. On the wall, you will need to install special fasteners for batteries or check the strength and correct installation of existing hooks. You should also do a study of the wall surface for integrity. Often cracks and gaps form under the windowsill over time. They must be sealed with cement mortar, and a foil insulation must be fixed on a dry surface. Among other options for finishing the wall: plaster with a special insulating composition, plasterboard sheathing with an insulating layer, etc.

2. The complete set of the radiator includes: installation of an air vent, screwing plugs into unoccupied holes in the manifolds. In case of discrepancy between the diameters of pipes and collectors, the connection is made using adapters.

3. Next, shut-off and control valves are installed. To do this, all inputs and outputs are set Ball Valves. They will allow the next repair work without completely shutting down the heating system. Thermostats are not mandatory elements, but their use saves coolant consumption on warm days. Therefore, regarding additional devices, each owner makes his own decision.

4. When hanging radiators on the mounts, it is recommended not to remove the protective film from new models. It will protect the surface of the batteries from contamination until the finishing work is completed.

5. The connection of the supply pipe and the discharge pipe is carried out sequentially by one of the existing methods: threaded, crimp, press, welding.

6. The next step is crimping. The water in the system should be opened at low pressure, a sharp start can provoke a water hammer, as a result of which the shut-off valves will fail.

To increase heat transfer and save thermal resources, it is worth fixing a sheet of foil insulation to the wall on the back of the radiator. Penny costs will save up to 10% on heating.

When installing a side-connected battery, you can pre-hang the structures, then make the piping. In the case of a bottom connection, work begins with determining the center distance of the nozzles. The installation of heating devices can be completed after the repair is completed.

In order to rationally use energy resources and save on space heating, it is recommended to equip radiators with thermostats (each device has a separate thermostat). So in each room you can install different temperature conditions comfortable for living.

Calculation required amount sections is made on the basis of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the power of one section, which is indicated in the passport.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks In the old days, it was possible to install heating radiators on your own

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators

Provide a cozy atmosphere in the house, even in the most cold winter correctly selected and mounted batteries are capable. Do-it-yourself installation of a heating radiator will not cause any problems if you follow the instructions and advice of specialists who will help you choose and draw up a connection diagram correctly, as well as calculate the placement.

Types of radiators

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the essential difference is in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

Aluminum are distinguished by good heat dissipation and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is susceptibility to water pressure drops in the system and its chemical composition.

Bimetallic batteries

Cast iron are deprived of these disadvantages, however, their large weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they are distinguished by a long period of operation (about 50 years).

The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively small mass and good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if you have your own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be the most convenient in installation.

Site selection and preparation for installation

To install heating batteries, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually involved, but this operation can also be done by hand. When implementing installation work it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and the floor, its heat transfer depends on it.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its size.

It is equally important to observe the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. At the same time, the gap between the upper point of the battery and the lower edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

Removing the replacement radiator

If the radiator is installed in own house, then it should be borne in mind that it should be preceded by preparatory work:

• overlapping water;
• draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
• pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
• dismantling the replacement radiator.

Radiator connection diagrams

Do-it-yourself installation of radiators requires a properly selected connection diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet holes for the coolant in it. In total, there are three schemes for connecting radiators:

• cross (heat loss 2%);
• lower (12-13%);
• single-pipe (19-20% loss), also called "Leningrad".

Battery connection diagram with thermostat

The choice of connection scheme depends on the type of heating: one-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of such a scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the lower radiator connection scheme is considered the most popular - it is distinguished by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connecting and mounting radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can minimize them by following the instructions and guidance provided by our experts.

Aluminum radiators

The installation of aluminum heating batteries requires assembling the sections together by screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then mounting the Mayevsky faucet and thermostatic valves. Installed aluminum radiator on special brackets, previously fixed on the wall.

Cast iron radiators

In principle, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall must be taken into account. This is especially true for multi-section cast-iron radiators, their weight can exceed 100 kg.

In wooden or dilapidated houses with fragile walls, it is more expedient to install cast iron not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with a battery. It is also desirable to use additional props.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an inclination of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast-iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the connection of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.

Features of mounting bimetallic batteries

The bimetallic radiator, despite the rather high price, is in great demand. Such popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high strength and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. Installation is recommended to be carried out in a protective factory film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting is done with brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be fixed both on the main concrete wall, and on drywall construction. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall with dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - by means of double-sided mounting fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is imperative to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) to bleed air. It should be located at the top of the bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the configuration, or its installation is provided in the design.

When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, as it allows you to remove the air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the life of the device.

Regardless of the type of radiator, do-it-yourself installation must take place in strict accordance with the attached instructions. Having drawn up a clear action plan, having calculated the installation site and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in the preparation of the plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.

Installation of heating batteries, do-it-yourself installation with photos and videos

Installation of heating radiators: assistance in drawing up a diagram, choosing an installation site, especially connecting a photo and video radiator, expert advice

The heating system is one of the main engineering systems in the house, whether it is a country cottage or ordinary apartment. We can forget about it in the summer, but with the onset of cold weather in our latitudes, it is basically impossible to live without it. The heating system consists of many elements. For example, autonomous and centralized heating differ in parameters, but in any of them there will be such a device as a radiator.

The radiator is the very end device that gives off the energy of the coolant in the pipes to the premises. If you decide to save money and start installing heating radiators with your own hands, then be sure to study this article. Indeed, the efficiency of heating, and hence your further comfort and even safety, greatly depends on the correct thermal calculation, selection and installation of equipment.

Types of heating batteries

A heating radiator (in everyday life often referred to as a “battery”) is a device consisting of separate hollow sections, inside which a coolant circulates. Its main task is to increase the area of ​​​​the radiating surface in order to increase the amount of heat given off to the room. Heat is transferred mainly by convection, when warmer air masses rise and colder ones take their place. A small part is also given off by radiation and heat conduction.

According to the manufacturing methods, batteries can be divided into two types: collapsible and non-collapsible. Collapsible radiators are assembled from single vertical sections connected by seals - radiator nipples. The number of sections is selected according to the calculated thermal power.

Sectioned aluminum heatsink

non-separable, or panel radiators- This monolithic structures in which only welding and casting are used. Due to the smaller number of connections, such devices are more reliable, but less versatile.

Wiring methods

First of all, there are two general schemes heating systems: one-pipe and two-pipe.

In a single-pipe system, radiators are connected in series, and one pipe is used for hot and cool coolant. Such a scheme is more demanding on the selection of pipe diameters, and the number of heaters should not exceed 4 - 5 with a total pipeline length of up to 30 m. power (i.e. surface area) to compensate for the lower temperature of the coolant.

It is important! As the name suggests, a two-pipe scheme involves the use of two pipes: for a hot coolant (supply) and a cooled one (return). All radiators are connected in parallel to the system, and water of approximately the same temperature enters them.

Video: battery replacement

After the installation of the radiators, the heating system must be pressure tested - pumping the coolant into the system at a pressure several times higher than the working one, and monitoring leaks for a short period of time. This step must not be omitted, since it guarantees the further uninterrupted operation of the heating system. If you don't know how to do this, call a plumber. In addition to knowledge, for crimping you will need a special pump, which makes no sense to buy at one time.

For any type of radiators general rules for placing them indoors. There is also a certain sequence of actions that must be followed. The technology is simple, but there are many nuances.

How to place batteries

First of all, the recommendations relate to the installation site. Most often, heaters are placed where heat loss is most significant. And first of all, these are windows. Even with modern energy-saving double-glazed windows, it is in these places that the most heat is lost. What can we say about the old wooden frames.

If there is no radiator under the window, then cold air descends along the wall and spreads across the floor. The situation is changed by installing a battery: warm air, rising up, prevents cold air from “draining” onto the floor. It must be remembered that in order for such protection to be effective, the radiator must occupy at least 70% of the width of the window. This norm is spelled out in SNiP. Therefore, when choosing radiators, keep in mind that a small radiator under the window will not provide the proper level of comfort. In this case, there will be zones on the sides where cold air will go down, there will be cold zones on the floor. At the same time, the window can often “sweat”, on the walls in the place where warm and cold air will collide, condensation will fall out, and dampness will appear.

For this reason, do not seek to find a model with the highest heat dissipation. This is justified only for regions with a very harsh climate. But in the north, even of the most powerful sections, there are large radiators. For middle lane Russia needs an average heat transfer, for the south they generally need low radiators (with a small center distance). This is the only way you can fulfill the key rule for installing batteries: block most of the window opening.

In a cold climate, it makes sense to arrange a thermal curtain and near front door. This is the second problem area, but it is more typical for private houses. This problem may occur in the apartments of the first floors. Here the rules are simple: you need to put the radiator as close to the door as possible. Choose a place depending on the layout, also taking into account the possibility of piping.

Rules for installing heating radiators

• It is required to place the heater strictly in the middle of the window opening. When installing, find the middle, mark it. Then right and left set aside the distance to the location of the fasteners.
• The distance from the floor is 8-14 cm. If you do less, it will be difficult to clean, if more, cold air zones form below.
• The radiator should be 10-12 cm from the window sill. With a closer location, convection worsens, and the thermal power drops.
• The distance from the wall to the back wall should be 3-5 cm. This gap ensures normal convection and heat distribution. And one more thing: at a small distance, dust will settle on the wall.

Based on these requirements, determine the most suitable size radiator, and then look for a model that satisfies them.

These are general rules. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations. And take it as advice: before buying, carefully study the installation requirements. Make sure that all conditions suit you. Only after that buy.

To reduce non-production losses - for heating the wall - fasten a foil or foil thin heat insulator behind the radiator on the wall. Such a simple measure will save 10-15% on heating. This is how heat transfer increases. But keep in mind that for normal “work”, there must be a distance of at least 2-3 cm from the shiny surface to the rear wall of the radiator. Therefore, the heat insulator or foil must be fixed to the wall, and not just leaned against the battery.

When should radiators be installed? At what stage of the installation of the system? When using radiators with side connection, you can first hang them, then proceed with the piping. For the bottom connection, the picture is different: you only need to know the center distance of the nozzles. In this case, radiators can be installed after the repair is completed.

Work order

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is important to do everything right, take into account all the little things. Experts advise using at least three fasteners when installing sectional batteries: two from above, one from below. All sectional radiators, regardless of type, are hung on the mounts with an upper manifold. It turns out that the main load falls on the upper holders, the lower one serves to give direction.

The installation procedure is as follows:

We tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire technology for installing heating radiators. It remains to clarify some points.

The most common . They are used for lateral connection of heating devices of any type, both sectional, and panel, and tubular (click on the picture to enlarge it)

Fixing the radiator to the wall

All manufacturers require the installation of heating radiators on a prepared, even and clean wall. From correct location holders depends on the efficiency of heating. Skewed in one direction or another will lead to the fact that the radiator will not heat up and it will have to be outweighed. Therefore, when marking, be sure to observe horizontal and vertical. The radiator must be installed exactly in any plane (check with a building level).

You can slightly raise the edge where the air vent is installed (about 1 cm). So the air will mainly accumulate in this part and it will be easier and faster to lower it. Reverse slope is not allowed.

Now about how to position the brackets. Sectional radiators of small mass - aluminum, bimetallic and steel tubular - are hung on top of two holders (hooks). With a small length of the batteries, they can be placed between the two extreme sections. The third bracket is placed from the bottom in the middle. If the number of sections is odd, put it to the right or left of the nearest section. Usually, when installing hooks, grouting is allowed.

To install brackets in marked places, drill holes, install dowels or wooden plugs. Fix the holders with self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of at least 35 mm. But these are standard requirements, read more in the passport for the heater.

The installation of the holders is different, but not drastically. For such devices, regular fasteners are usually included. There can be from two to four, depending on the length of the radiator (it can be three meters).

There are brackets on the back panel with which they are hung. To install the mount, you need to measure the distance from the center of the radiator to the brackets. Set aside a similar distance on the wall (preliminarily note where the middle of the battery will be located). Then we apply fasteners, mark the holes for the dowels. Further actions are standard: we drill, install dowels, apply brackets and fix with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

The above rules for the installation of heating radiators are common for both individual systems and centralized ones. But before installing new radiators in you must obtain permission from the management or operating company. The heating system is common property and all unauthorized alterations have consequences - administrative fines. The fact is that with a massive change in the parameters of the heating network (replacing pipes, radiators, installing thermostats, etc.), the system is unbalanced. This can lead to the fact that the entire riser (entrance) will freeze in winter. Therefore, all changes require approval.

Types of wiring and connection of radiators in apartments (click on the picture to enlarge it)

Another feature is technical in nature. With a vertical one (one pipe enters through the ceiling, enters the radiator, then exits and goes to the floor), when installing the radiator, install a bypass - a jumper between the supply and discharge pipelines. Paired with ball valves, this will give you the ability to turn off the radiator if you want (or in an accident). This does not require the approval or permission of the manager: you turned off your radiator, but the coolant continues to circulate through the riser through the bypass (the same jumper). You do not need to stop the system, pay for it, listen to neighbors' complaints.

A bypass is also needed when installing a radiator with a regulator in the apartment (the installation of the regulator also needs to be coordinated - it greatly changes the hydraulic resistance of the system). The peculiarity of his work is such that he blocks the flow of coolant. If there is no jumper, the entire riser is blocked. Imagine the consequences...

Results

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators is not the easiest, but not the most difficult task. Just keep in mind that most manufacturers give guarantees only if the heaters are installed by representatives of organizations licensed for this. The fact of installation and pressure testing must be noted in the radiator passport, the signature of the installer and the seal of the enterprise must be. If you do not need a guarantee, your hands are in place, it is quite possible to handle it.

The arrangement of your personal home, as a rule, is not complete without installing an autonomous heating system. Someone uses a water-heated floor system as a building heating, while others prefer the installation of radiators. This article will discuss how to independently install heating radiators correctly.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that this type of work requires a careful approach. Even the smallest mistakes can lead to accidents. Depending on where exactly you have to replace the heating batteries (in an apartment or a private house), the approach to choosing a master should be different.

For example, if we are talking about apartments in multi-storey buildings, then in this case it is best to call a professional plumber who has access to all the necessary valves and, of course, sufficient work experience. If you need to replace radiators in a private house, then it will be within the power of any owner, provided that all types of work are correctly performed.

Self-installation of heating radiators: preparation

The first thing you should pay attention to is the type of wiring. It can be single pipe or double pipe. The number of parts used and, of course, the complexity of the work depends on what kind of wiring in the house.

Differences between a single-pipe heating system and a two-pipe system

To distinguish a single-pipe heating system from a two-pipe one, it is necessary to be guided by the following criteria:

- if the pipeline leaving one battery is simultaneously supplying for the subsequent heating radiator, such wiring is called single-pipe;

- if separate supply and return pipelines are equipped for each battery, such wiring is called two-pipe.

Selection of components

For each type of wiring, the details and their number will be different. For example, if you install a single-pipe heating system, you will definitely need to provide for the arrangement of a bypass. It is necessary to turn off the heater in case of damage to it without stopping the functioning of the entire system. This is of particular importance when operating under conditions low temperature environment.

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As for the type of radiators and the connection scheme, the number of different fittings, adapters, taps, thermostatic heads, etc. depends on them.

Separately, it should be noted that in order to perform the types of work related to connecting various shaped parts to heating devices and ensuring the sealing of the entire heating system, experience will be required. You need to know how to properly use tow or FUM tape. If there is no such experience, you will have to consult with a specialist or entrust him with this task.

In addition to the various fittings necessary to properly connect the radiators to the heating system, it is imperative to install a Mayevsky crane on each battery. It is designed to release air. Without the presence of such a detail, it will not be easy to eliminate such a problem. The Mayevsky crane is installed in the upper place with a threaded connection not connected to the pipeline. In modern radiators, a similar product is included in the basic package.

The fact is that, according to physical processes, the air in the system is collected in the upper part of the heating battery. By unscrewing the Mayevsky tap screw, you can completely bleed this air and fill the heater with coolant one hundred percent, which will contribute to maximum heat transfer and, accordingly, better and quick warm-up all areas of the building.

Location calculation

In order for the coolant to circulate without undue resistance, it is necessary to observe the slopes of the pipelines connected to each radiator:

- supply pipelines must have an inclination towards the heating battery;

- for return, the slope should be from the battery to the pipeline.

Such an arrangement of pipes will make it possible to minimize the resistance to the passage of the coolant through the heating batteries, which, in turn, will contribute to the uniform distribution of heat between the premises of the building.

If the above requirements are not followed during installation work (for example, install the supply and return pipelines strictly horizontally or with a negative slope), this can significantly reduce the efficiency of the entire heating system.

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To achieve maximum results, you must follow these rules:

1) supply pipelines must have a slope towards the radiator from 0.5 to 1 cm per meter of length;

2) for return pipelines, the numerical values ​​\u200b\u200bshould be similar, only in this case the slope should be from the battery;

3) for good air circulation through the heat-releasing walls of the battery, its lower part should be located at a height of at least 60 mm from the floor;

4) the distance from the top of the radiator to the bottom of the window sill should be between 50 and 100 mm;

5) and from the battery to the wall - approximately 30–50 mm.

The requirements for compliance with slopes for supply and return pipelines do not in any way apply to the radiator. It must be installed strictly horizontally.

In order for the heater to be able to give off maximum thermal energy to the air in the room, before installing it, it is necessary to paste over the adjacent section of the wall with foil insulation (this is a heat-reflecting material of a roll type). The area of ​​this material must match the dimensions of the radiator. If you install without foil isol, part of the heat will be spent on heating the wall and the efficiency of the heating battery will decrease.

We install heating radiators correctly: markup

For the correct location of the radiators, it is necessary to mark up, following all the recommendations set out in the instructions for installing such heaters. The bottom line is this:

1) first you just need to attach the radiator to the wall, observing its horizontal position and the required distances from the floor and window sill;

2) after that mark its outline with a simple pencil not a wall;

3) then put the battery aside and spend two horizontal lines, which will serve as axes for the location of the upper and lower row of brackets;

4) at the required distance, drill the required number of holes in the wall on each of the lines (as a rule, if the heater is short, it is enough to make 2 holes on the upper and lower axis);