After what crops can vegetables be planted table. Precursors and neighbors of vegetables in the beds. Are there rules for a good harvest

Crop rotation tables for vegetable crops summer cottage are divided in relation to soil fertility, to families and groups of plants. When compiling the tables, the predecessors and neighbors of plants are taken into account. The tables are a guide to action for summer residents.

Crop rotation is necessary for gardeners for rational farming. Its use ensures good yields of vegetables, increases soil fertility and protects plants from pests and diseases in a natural way. In nature, everything is balanced, and this should be striven for in the country.

Ways to increase yields

Vegetable plants of the same species consume the same nutrients from the soil, emit similar toxins, and have the same pests. When cultivating plants in a permanent place, the soil is severely depleted. There is a reproduction of pests, infection with diseases, as well as the growth of weeds. Soil fatigue sets in, its fertility decreases. It accumulates toxins released by plants. We carry out crop rotation of crops according to tables.

To increase the yield of vegetables, the following conditions must be met:

No standard and correct scheme crop rotation, since each summer resident grows different crops and in different quantities. Some plant a lot of potatoes, others grow herbs and cucumbers. Therefore, an individual table of crop rotation of vegetables in the beds is compiled. To do this, a plot of the site and a description of the plants grown by summer residents are entered into the dacha journal. It is desirable to have permanent beds for better crop rotation.

A crop rotation chart will make it easier to grow vegetables. The alternation of plants allows the soil to rest, since each crop consumes certain mineral fertilizers... All plant properties are taken into account in the table.

Crop classification and soil interactions

Phosphorus fertilizers, compost, ash must be applied to the soil. Crops such as carrots, beets, spinach, dill and celery are undemanding, but the soil must be mulched with compost and potash preparations must be added. The fourth group includes plants that saturate the earth with nitrogen, loosen it. Legumes: peas and beans. Potatoes and cabbage inhibit weed growth. The cultivation is carried out according to the following principle:

Table 2. Crop rotation in relation to soil

When mixed landing different requirements for lighting, wind protection, the need for mineral fertilizers and ripening times are taken into account. The interval between vegetable crops must be increased. The use of tables of crop rotation for vegetable crops will allow you to get high yields, and make working in the country pleasant.

One of the most effective methods increasing yields and maintaining soil fertility is considered a crop rotation. This technique is used in natural organic crop production. Unfortunately, not all summer residents pay due attention to this, some out of ignorance, and the latter because of their unwillingness to pay a little more attention to the beds. Crop rotation requires keeping a special journal in which you need to draw a plan for placing the beds and mark each crop planted on them. Records should be kept constantly, and not everyone wants to do this.

Understanding developmental features different types cultures will help convince summer residents to pay due attention to this issue.

If negative factors accumulate in the ground for a long period of time, then expect good harvest even if the other rules of agronomy are followed, it is not worth it.

The number of crops in crop rotations can range from three to ten. On their own plots, growers try to grow a complete list of various vegetables, in most cases the crop rotation includes up to six to seven or eight crops.

A few general rules for drawing up a crop rotation

It is impossible to make a universal crop rotation for all occasions. In order to facilitate the compilation of a crop rotation for each summer resident, we will first consider general rules, and then we will talk about their application to specific crops.

1. For several years in a row, it is forbidden to plant not only the same vegetables, but also plants in the same garden general view... Crop rotation within the same family is ineffective.

   

2. The longer the period of time the plant does not return to its former place of growth, the better for both it and the land.
3. During the preparation of the crop rotation, it is necessary to take into account the name of the mineral substances that were used by the predecessors and prevent their repetition.

   

4. Leaving the land for rest in the beds free of crops is impractical. Then it is strongly recommended to use green manure - the soil not only rests and restores, but also enriches. In addition, if desired, there is an opportunity to harvest these crops.

   

Recommended alternation considering predecessors

This is the easiest way to compose a crop rotation. But with its help, you can significantly increase the yield. The table lists the most commonly grown vegetables and gives recommendations for acceptable predecessors.

Culture	After what crops is it recommended to sow	After what crops it is allowed to sow	After which crops can not be sown
	Siderata are ideal predecessors. Good after melons or early cabbage. It is allowed to sow after carrots, garlic and onions.	They can be sown after harvesting crops of corn, beets and mid-season cabbage.	Tomatoes, bell peppers, potatoes are prohibited as predecessors. Including eggplants of all other types are prohibited.
	It is best to choose potatoes or carrots. Not bad onions, pumpkin, garlic.	Do not sow after beets, tomatoes and peppers. Any greens (parsley, dill), eggplants and bell peppers.	Corn, do not sow after legumes.
	Optimum potatoes and all legumes, garlic and onions. It is possible after cauliflower.	Allowed after salads, beets and legumes.	Cabbage, eggplant, tomatoes and peppers are prohibited from being predecessors.
	Seedlings are planted on potatoes, zucchini and carrots.	Greens, lettuce, tomatoes and eggplants.	Pumpkin, beets, cabbage, radishes, cucumbers. These plants can significantly reduce the yield.
	Excellent predecessors of cabbage and green manure. It is not bad to plant after cucumbers, squash, garlic and onions.	Corn and cabbage, beets, greens are strongly discouraged.	All nightshades, cucumbers, eggplants, bell peppers are prohibited.
	Optimal: carrots, after cabbage, carrots.	Onions, you can after bell peppers, cabbage. We accept garlic, tomatoes.	It is forbidden to plant after carrots and salads. The choice of crops is very careful.
	Onions, cabbage, salads are allowed. Pumpkin and squash can be.	All legumes, corn, bell peppers and tomatoes can be applied.	Beetroot cannot be the predecessor.
	Any legumes, parsley and cabbage are great. Garlic, onions, potatoes do not have a harmful effect.	Greens, red beets are allowed.	Cannot be sown after cabbage and eggplant. Tomatoes, bell peppers, plants that use a lot of nitrogen fertilizers are undesirable.
	There can be any melons, cucumbers. If the beds are free from under the cucumbers and peas, you can occupy them.	It is possible after radishes, beets. Corn in exceptional cases.	Solanaceae, pumpkin, eggplant are undesirable.
	Very unpretentious to predecessors. Potatoes, legumes, strawberries, garlic will do.	Salads, herbs, tomatoes and beets are allowed.	Carrots and cabbage are highly undesirable.
	Greens, salads, cucumbers and squash are like. Grows well after legumes and green manure.	Good yields after corn, cabbage, garlic and onions. There may be tomatoes, garlic.	Potatoes and tomatoes are not recommended as predecessors.
	Ideal bean, can be cucumbers, cabbage.	After garlic and onion, the yield is average.	Bell peppers, nightshades are prohibited as predecessors.
	Legumes, potatoes, white cabbage are recommended. Not a bad yield after garlic and onions.	Potatoes, salads, herbs, beets are good.	Blue eggplants, carrots, cabbage are not recommended. These include terets and tomatoes.
	Green manures and legumes are ideal precursors. Cucumbers and cabbage are acceptable options.	Eggplants, pumpkin, tomatoes, corn are allowed.	No need to sow after radishes and carrots.

Due to the fact that potatoes mostly occupy large areas, they can be excluded from the crop rotation. In some areas, it can grow up to 5 years, while you only need to change different varieties.

Additional Notes

Zucchini and eggplant perfectly inhibit the growth of weeds, they can be used as biological weeding. On the previous garden bed, the plants should be sown no earlier than three years later. It is imperative to observe the crop rotation.

1. All legumes can be planted in one place up to three years. They are also very effective green manures.

   

2. For onions on a feather, it is better to choose a new place every year.
3. Cucumbers are very afraid of bacterial diseases; plants can be returned to their previous bed in 3-4 years.

   

4. For radishes, do not set aside a separate bed, it grows well in the aisles.
5. Beets and carrots grow better on light soils; organic fertilizers should be applied to improve the structure.

   

Permissible combination of crops during crop rotations

On small plots, in order to increase harvest, crop rotations can be made with a combination of the following crops:

• peas can be sown together with carrots;
• fully harmonize zucchini with herbs and onions;
• sow cabbage with carrots, salads, beans;
• ordinary onion with tomatoes, beets and carrots;
• cucumbers are combined with cabbage and legumes;
• radish adjoins perfectly with legumes and carrots;
• tomatoes grow well with parsley and peas;
• table red beets can be sown with onions.

For example, on one bed you can sow cucumbers with cabbage for the first year, the next year only tomatoes, a year later there are carrots and onions, after which you can give the whole bed for potatoes. This is just one example, in each case you need to choose your crops depending on your needs.

What you need to know when drawing up a crop rotation

No single crop compatibility table can provide comprehensive answers to all questions of interest. There are no and cannot be two completely identical household plots. In order to competently resolve issues in any situation, you need to understand the main principles of compiling crop rotations. What to look for when planning a crop rotation yourself?

Correct rotation of cultivated crops in groups

All plants can be conventionally divided into several large groups. This classification is far from scientific, but it greatly simplifies planning for ordinary summer residents. Plants are leafy, foliage is removed as a crop, for example, salads. The second conditional type is fruit. These are not apples and plums, but cucumbers, tomatoes, etc. Another large group is root crops: potatoes, beets. And the last legumes: beans, beans.

Optimal garden cultivation: fruit vegetables - roots - legumes - leafy. Then, every year, cultures "move" to neighboring beds and so on until a full circle. It is very desirable to make one bed separately for green manure, but not every summer resident can afford it.

Rotating crops based on nutrient requirements

We have already mentioned that each crop depletes the soil in a different way, this must be taken into account when planning a crop rotation. Most of the nutrients are required for cabbage and pumpkin, then nightshades are placed, the least minerals are needed for greens. Finally, legumes enrich the soil on their own.

Special growths with bacteria form on their roots, in which a large amount of easily assimilable nitrogen accumulates.

Crop rotation should take these features into account, crops that require the maximum amount of nutrients to develop should be sown after legumes. Of course, species incompatibility must also be taken into account.

What can you do in practice to make the correct crop rotation not time-consuming and enjoyable? For joy, only one thing is needed - an increase in the yield of the beds. And to save time, there are some tips on how to correctly compose a crop rotation.

Think about what and how much you would like to grow in your beds. How many family members do you have and what do they prefer to eat, what practical yield can be obtained from the beds. However, do not plan as much as possible, in practice you are unlikely to be able to achieve such results. Depending on these data, approximately determine the size of the beds for each crop.

Another important point is economic. Works on personal plot should not only bring moral satisfaction, but also material profit. Grow crops based on the properties of the land and climate zone. For example, if you live in an area with a cold climate, then it is inappropriate to try to grow thermophilic plants. It is not necessary to occupy the ground because of a few bell peppers or tomatoes. It is better to buy them in a store, and plant beets, onions, garlic, etc. on the vacated area.

Draw a site plan on a piece of paper with a breakdown of it into beds (taking into account the above tips). Consider the location of the crops depending on the lighting conditions. Most summer residents have different fruit trees and bushes, the shade from them has a significant effect on the growing conditions, place the crops so that the light-loving ones are not in the shade. Make several copies of the site plan with a breakdown by beds, there should be a plan for each year. There is no need to hope that the placement of cultures will be remembered, practice shows that this is not so.

Mark the names of the crops annually on the plan. It is advisable to indicate the yield and the amount of applied fertilizers in the context of the active ingredients. There are times when you need to change the size of the beds for certain crops. This is not a problem, just change their location, length and width on the plan.

If it becomes necessary to expand or shorten the list of vegetables, then always pay attention to the compatibility table. In this case, it is desirable to take into account which nutrients the plants prefer and what is left in the soil after the predecessors.

To make it easier to draw up a crop rotation, it is recommended to place the plants in a certain order along biological species according to the above recommendations, and then annually shift them by one position. The first bed will be the second, the second the third, and the last the first. Depending on the number of beds and the list of crops, a complete turnover of plants at the location occurs over several years.

We hope that the information will help to correctly compose the crop rotation and thereby increase the yield of the beds and preserve the fertility of the land.

Video - Crop rotation at their summer cottage

Growing vegetables and herbs in their own garden for many today is both a useful and a favorite pastime. Of course, it is very important to get a good harvest from your site. The best result is achieved when the crop rotation in the garden is correctly adjusted.

The importance of crop rotation

If the same plants are constantly planted in one place, then their own enzymes (root secretions) poison the soil and the yield drops. So, for example, with a long cultivation in one place of celery, tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, cabbage, causative agents of various diseases accumulate in the soil. Therefore, crop rotation in the garden is necessary, that is, the annual change of places for growing crops on the site.

The same crops and related crops are recommended to be planted in the same places after at least three seasons. It is important to comply with this condition, because different cultures require different fertilizers... For example, cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, leeks, pumpkin need organic fertilizers; carrots, beets, parsley - in mineral; onions, garlic, herbs, tomatoes - both in minerals and organic matter.

Benefits of crop rotation

The alternation of crops in the garden allows you to:

• to reduce the influence of pests and pathogens accumulated in the soil, which are especially dangerous for the previous culture and less dangerous for the next one;
• improve the intake of nutrients from the soil by plants;
• it is more rational to use mineral and organic fertilizers, taking into account their effect and aftereffect on different crops;
• avoid negative phenomena that are caused by root secretions of this plant species;
• to carry out deep digging gradually (only for crops that need deep loosening of the soil).

Organization of crop rotation

In order to organize in the garden and not get confused in the planting sites, the following solution is often proposed. The entire garden is conventionally divided into four zones (although three are possible). We plant crops in groups. The first group is vegetables that need organic matter. The second group is vegetables that need mineral fertilizers. The third group is vegetables, for which both organics and minerals are important. And the fourth group is potatoes.

For the next season, you need to choose such places for planting plants so that the previous crops are suitable for them:

• Bean - cabbage, potatoes, root vegetables, tomatoes.
• Potatoes - legumes and early cabbage.
• Cabbage - roots, legumes, tomatoes, potatoes.
• Tomatoes, peppers - legumes, roots, cabbage.
• Onions - potatoes, pumpkin, root vegetables, legumes.
• Root crops - potatoes, tomatoes, early cabbage.
• Greens - legumes, cabbage, potatoes, pumpkin.
• Cucumbers and pumpkins - root vegetables, early cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes.

You also need to know the invalid predecessors. For example, do not fit:

How to increase yields

Observing certain rules of crop rotation in the garden, you can get two crops per year on one piece of land. For example, before planting peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, you can spinach, salad. After cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, sow turnips and radishes. After early potatoes, plant kohlrabi, colored After peas, radishes, lettuce, peppers, spinach grow well.

Between the rows of slow-growing vegetables, you can plant fast-growing ones. For example, between the rows of carrots, beets, celery, you can grow lettuce, radishes, spinach, green onions... Radishes and lettuce can also be grown between cabbage rows (early and late). Greenery grows well along the edges of the beds.

It is useful to grow more thermophilic plants (cucumbers, peppers, eggplants) among higher ones (tomatoes, peas, corn).

J. Seymour's Rules

1. If potatoes are planted on heavy damp soils, then other root crops can be grown there in the third, fourth year.
2. Legumes like soil that is well-limed, which potatoes don't. Therefore, it is better not to plant potatoes after legumes.
3. Cabbage lime is loved, but not fresh. They are best planted after legumes.
4. Radishes, salads, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini love rotted manure and compost. After them, it is good to grow root crops.
5. In some places, you can constantly plant greens (lettuce, spinach, dill).

Crop rotation table

So, to make it easier to organize crop rotation in the garden, the crop rotation table will give information in a more visual form.

Crop rotation

Culture	Predecessors
	The best	Permissible	Bad
Cabbage of medium and late varieties	Legumes, cucumber, carrots, early potatoes	-	Beets, cabbage
Beet	Cucumber, greens, green manure, potatoes	Tomatoes, onions, carrots, cauliflower and cabbage
Cauliflower and early varieties	Legumes, onion, cucumber, green manure	Tomatoes, carrots	Root vegetables, cabbage
Cucumber, zucchini, squash, pumpkin, zucchini	Onions, early and medium cabbage, cauliflower, garlic, legumes	Potatoes, beets, cucumber, herbs	Tomatoes, carrots, late cabbage
Tomatoes	Turnip, cucumbers, greens, green manure, cauliflower	Medium and late cabbage, beets, onions	Potatoes, tomatoes
Onion garlic	Cucumber, potatoes, legumes, cauliflower and cabbage	Tomatoes, beets, onions, late cabbage	Carrots, greens
Potatoes	Legumes, cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, green manure	Greens, cabbage, carrots, beets	Potatoes, tomatoes
Legumes	All varieties of cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, cucumbers	Tomatoes, greens, table vegetables, green manure	Legumes
Greens	Legumes, cauliflower and early cabbage, onions, cucumbers, green manure	Potatoes, tomatoes, herbs, beets	Late cabbage, carrots

"Conveyor" of vegetables

The so-called vegetable conveyor is very convenient for the constant supply of fresh herbs and vegetables to the table. This conveyor begins when in the spring we plant greens in the garden. Crop rotation in this case helps to achieve the best results.

The sequence of admission to the table of greens, vegetables, root crops:

• In spring: feathers of perennial chives, batun onions, parsley, Jerusalem artichoke tubers, left for the winter.
• A little later: sorrel, young nettle, rhubarb, onion feathers planted at the end of April.
• Then: dill and radish.
• Late May to early June: mustard salad, spinach, seedling-grown salad dressing, basil, coriander.
• Mid June: early tomatoes and cucumbers, beets, bunch carrots.
• End of June: and early.
• July: tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, beets, zucchini, carrots, broccoli, early potatoes.
• August: squash, legumes, corn, turnip, pumpkin, eggplant, bell pepper.
• Autumn and winter: celery (transplanted into pots), onion feathers, watercress, alfalfa, leafy mustard, home grown.

Considering all the advantages of this approach, it is worth remembering about creativity when organizing plantings. Crop rotation in the garden will help with this, but you need to apply it according to your needs, capabilities and desire.

Crop rotation table

When planning future crops, you must first take into account the order of rotation of cultures. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, the correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.

Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get higher yields. In order not to get confused in the "five hundred square meters", it is worth drawing a plan of your garden for the coming summer and an approximate plan of planting for next year, observing the correct order of alternation of vegetable crops.

Cabbage

It is impossible plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than in 2-3 years. White cabbage is best placed after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; landing is acceptable after beans, peas, carrots and beets.

Potatoes

Best predecessors for potatoesla - cabbage and various root vegetables. A poor precursor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops share common pests and pathogens.Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than -3.

Cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for newth place. They are posted after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

According to the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to grow tomatoes after potatoes, since, again, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes - cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions are acceptable.

If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every fall for deep digging of soil need to make fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. m.), as tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

Growing beets at one place should be done no more often than every three to four years... Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. Undesirable plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach, again beets).

Onion

Onion cannot be in one place plant more three to four years contract.The best predecessors of onions are crops for which large doses were applied organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, squash and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. On heavy clay soils, onions will not give a good harvest; they prefer light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.

Garlic

Grow garlic in one place can no more than two years, otherwise it will not be possible to avoid contamination of the soil with stem nematode.

It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except onions).

Carrot

Sowed after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

Eggplant

The best precursors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early maturing cabbage, perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

Strawberry

The best precursors for strawberries are: radish, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers are not suitable as precursors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radish, beans, mustard, radish, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as precursors. Strawberries cannot be placed after all species of the Compositae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.

Better together

Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested another correct decision - joint landings... This is both convenient and allows you to get a large assortment of vegetables in a small area. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatiles released by plants.

Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, onions (this is even useful, since joint planting with onions scares away the carrot fly from it).

Onion together with table beets, chicory, carrots.

Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon.

TO potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn,

to cucumber - dill and corn, radishes will benefit from the proximity to watercress, and peas - with mustard.

It is proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other.

You can make the following bed:

plant parsley, salad, and sow garlic between them.

As for the unwanted neighborhood, then can't be planted next to potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin.

If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed.

In addition, if the area allows,select a small area for growing green manure herbs:

clover, lupine, alfalfa and others.

Thus, you will give the land a rest, gain strength for the cultivation of vegetables.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge.

Crop rotation - important rule, helping to achieve the highest quality and abundant harvest in any garden plot. If you regularly change the place of sowing and planting different cultures, you can ensure that each plant receives the necessary and proper amount of nutrients from the soil. Also, the "neighborhood" of vegetables also requires compliance, because many plant diseases can be transmitted to adjacent vegetable families.

What then to plant next year: table

Every gardener and experienced gardener knows that sowing must be literate. Moreover, planting a variety of crops and plants: vegetables, berries, fruits, greenery is not only pleasant, but also useful. It allows a person to develop, engage in health, exercise, breathe and enjoy nature, spend more time outdoors, relax from city life, get aesthetic pleasure, and grow food for themselves.

Anyone who grows a vegetable garden on a daily basis will certainly appreciate a good harvest. In order for it to be impressive, fertile and good, you must definitely adhere to certain rules and the order of planting seeds, seedlings, and so on.

Not every gardener knows that it is impossible to plant the same plants every year in the same place. The fact is that plant roots tend to produce certain enzymes (a kind of secretion), which literally poison the soil every year and make it less fertile. It is for this reason that each time it is necessary to do crop rotation - firstly, and secondly, observe the alternation of sowing: what and for what needs to be planted.

When planting each plant, you need to know in detail how much time and seasons it can be in the soil, how long it takes to plant and the type of fertilization.

The correct and organized planting of vegetables has many advantages:

• reduces the number of possible ground pests
• reduces the number of various pathogens for plants
• improves and increases the amount of nutrients in the soil
• allows the correct use of various fertilizers
• minimizes negative influence fertilizers for soil and plants
• allows you to dig the soil more often and deeper, which is beneficial for plants

Table of correct planting and alternation of vegetables in the garden plot:

correct planting of vegetables with alternation, what then to plant

table of compatibility and correct "neighborhood" of plants in the garden

What to plant after strawberries, after which to plant strawberries and why?

Strawberries are a delicious and beloved berry, so how big your harvest will be depends on how carefully you choose a place to plant it. Strawberries can grow fertilely in one place for no more than four years. After this time, you can see such negative changes, as:

• berries are getting smaller
• the plant wears out and ages
• the plant is sick more often
• the plant often dies

The soil under the strawberries is depleted in four years, it is infected with many different diseases, and there are many pests in it. Transplanting to the area where other crops previously grew will help to improve the yield and its quality.

where to plant strawberries? after which to plant strawberries?

In the place where strawberries previously grew, you can plant a completely opposite plant, for example, a root crop:

• potatoes
• celery
• carrot
• beet
• garlic

Root crop - the best option for planting, but this does not mean that you cannot plant other crops on this site, for example, zucchini or cucumbers. After you clean the area of \u200b\u200bstrawberries, dig up thoroughly and carry out a thorough mineralization.

It is important to know that you should not plant in the soil where the strawberries used to grow. The fact is that strawberries are rosaceous, which means that all related crops, for example, raspberries or blackberries, will be contraindicated. Fruit trees are also not recommended. A sufficient amount of time must pass and it is necessary to produce all types of fertilization and "healing" the soil.

Speaking about after which you can plant strawberries, it is worth noting that the plant is not whimsical and gets along well on the soil, where previously there were a variety of root crops, legumes, greens and even nightshades.

What to plant after cabbage, after which to plant cabbage and why?

Cabbage is planted with seedlings, it is important to buy only stocky and healthy-looking seedlings - this is a guarantee of a good harvest, tasty and useful fruits... Seedlings must have strong and dense leaves. It should be planted in the ground, digging right up to the outlet and carefully tamp the ground.

A good neighborhood, which will accompany the vegetable on the site, will also affect the fertility of the crop. Several simple rules should be followed. It is best to plant cabbage in the soil where the harvest was previously:

• any root crops
• legumes
• cereals
• melons and gourds

how and after what should cabbage be planted?

It is important to know that cabbage cannot be grown for more than three years in a row in the same soil. After you have harvested the soil, be sure to dig up and mineralize.

It is known that cabbage, after growing for more than two years in one area, is capable of taking all the most useful from the soil. After the cabbage, you can plant cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes or onions.

What to plant after cucumbers, after which to plant cucumbers and why?

Cucumbers are able to "endure" and bear fruit on the same soil for no more than four years in a row. After this time, you should definitely change the plot so that your harvest is good and abundant.

As practice shows, cucumbers grow best on the land where they previously bore fruit:

• any variety and type of cabbage
• root vegetables (carrots - not desirable)
• legumes (best: peas and beans)
• plain and leafy greens

rules for planting cucumbers in a garden plot

A good harvest of cucumbers can be favored by a good neighborhood, which includes dill, various legumes, leafy greens, salads, fennel.

For a real gardener important information is what kind of crop should be planted after cucumbers the next year. We can say with confidence that the best crops on this soil will be:

• bulbous crops
• some root vegetables: beets or celery
• radish and radish

What to plant after tomatoes, after which to plant tomatoes and why?

Tomato is one of our favorite vegetables. However, getting a good and fertile tomato harvest is difficult. To do this, you should follow all the rules for alternating planting in the ground of plants in the garden plot.

First of all, you should know that tomatoes and related families according to the classification - melons and nightshades, unfortunately, “suffer” from the same diseases. It is for this reason that it is not recommended to plant a tomato in the soil where its native vegetables "lived" earlier, and also not to plant them in the neighborhood.

how to plant a tomato?

Tomatoes will give a decent harvest where crops such as:

• melons (including pumpkin, melon and zucchini)
• some root vegetables: turnips, beets
• bulbous plants
• leafy and ordinary greens

• potatoes
• any kind of pepper
• nightshade
• physalis

After you have harvested a good crop of tomatoes and want to transplant them to another site, the old soil will be suitable for many unpretentious crops: bulbs, legumes, some root crops and greens.

After tomatoes, berries such as strawberries and strawberries should not be planted in the soil, since soil diseases are quite capable of spreading to the roots of these plants.

What to plant after hot pepper, after which to plant hot pepper and why?

Pepper is a nightshade vegetable, therefore, before planting on the soil where pepper used to grow, plants of this family cannot be planted. Planting pepper on the same soil where it grew last year is impossible, it is necessary that about three years have passed since that moment.

Pepper is a "capricious" crop that is very demanding on the quality of the soil.

The best precursor crops for hot pepper are:

• cucumbers
• leafy greens
• herbs
• cabbage
• legumes

hot pepper crop rotation

It is extremely bad after pepper in the soil to take root:

• potatoes
• beet
• carrot
• celery
• tomato

If you follow all the basic rules for fertilizing the soil and alternating crop rotation, then the harvest of hot pepper will delight you not only with its quality and good quantity.

What to plant after sweet pepper, after which to plant sweet pepper and why?

Bell peppers are more whimsical than hot peppers. However, the requirements for planting it are similar to all types of this vegetable.

Pepper will take root best after:

• any bulbous plants
• melons and gourds
• leafy and ordinary greens
• cabbage of any kind and variety
• all legumes

After sweet pepper, you can confidently plant root crops in the soil, they will give a good and high-quality harvest.

after which it is correct to plant sweet peppers?

What to plant after potatoes, after which to plant potatoes and why?

Potatoes are a common and popular vegetable in every garden. He is capable of successfully fertile for several years in the same place, but it is simply impossible for him to change his place often when everyone square meter on the account. Therefore, the most important and important rule for compliance is to take into account the wishes of the "neighborhood" and crop rotation of other crops.

Potatoes are able to give a good harvest in the place where they grew before:

• various melons and gourds
• any bulbous crops
• any legume
• some root vegetables: radish or radish

how to plant potatoes correctly?

It is worth noting that the soil after potatoes is sufficiently depleted and "worn out", therefore it is recommended to plant green manure crops in it, that is, those that "heal" it and give it a "rest".

These plants are:

• mustard
• cereals
• legumes
• phacelia
• pumpkin

• eggplants - they will give a meager harvest or even die
• tomatoes - they are extremely demanding on the quality of the soil
• pepper - it is whimsical to the soil and requires a large content of nutrients in it

What to plant after garlic, after which to plant garlic and why?

In addition to its excellent qualities, this bulbous plant is able to "spoil" the soil, literally "sucking" most of the minerals from it and attracting many pests. The best cropsthat grew in the soil prior to planting the garlic are any grains, with the only exceptions oats and barley. The soil is considered good on which it was previously grown:

• edible and leafy greens
• clover
• alfalfa
• melons and gourds
• strawberry
• strawberries and other berries

after which should you plant the garlic?

Garlic will be extremely unsuccessful in the soil and will lead to a poor harvest if any root crops have been harvested on it before: from potatoes to carrots.

What to plant after beets, after which to plant beets and why?

You can get a good harvest of beets if you comply with all the requirements for planting this vegetable in the soil. Beets are quite unpretentious to the soil and often get along even on a "depleted" area.

Beets will give many large fruits if the soil in which they were planted before was the place of growth:

• vegetables of the melons family
• cabbage of any kind and variety
• tomatoes of any kind
• pepper of any kind
• any root crops
• any bulbous crops

after which should beets be planted?

After beets in the soil, crops such as:

• leafy green vegetables and any greens
• bulbous crops: fennel, onion, garlic
• some unpretentious root vegetables
• any legumes

What to plant after the onion, after which to plant the onion and why?

It is best to plant onions in the soil where other bulbous plants have not grown before, because such a soil is "empty" for many trace elements useful for it. Onions will take root where they previously grew:

• melons and gourds
• nightshade vegetables
• roots
• leafy vegetables and herbs
• any legumes

how to plant onions correctly?

A good harvest can be obtained if, after harvesting onions the next year, planting:

• root vegetables: carrots, beets, celery and others
• legumes
• leafy vegetables and herbs
• tomato

What to plant after the pumpkin, after which to plant the pumpkin and why?

The pumpkin is capable of depleting the soil, taking some trace elements from it, but giving it completely different ones.

Favorable for the pumpkin will be the soil where they previously grew:

• any kind of pepper
• root vegetables
• cabbage
• bulbous vegetables
• leafy and common greens
• legumes
• corn

what should be planted after the pumpkin?

The pumpkin should be planted where it previously grew:

• bulbous plants
• roots
• cabbage of any kind
• legumes
• leafy vegetables and herbs

What to plant after radishes, after which to plant radishes and why?

Radish is not the most whimsical vegetable, but its yield is closely dependent on what has grown in the soil before it. Any legume is considered the best option. Other permitted plants include:

• vegetables of the melons family
• cabbage in any form
• tomatoes and tomatoes
• potatoes and other root vegetables

After the radish, the soil will accept well and delight with the harvest from plants such as:

• roots
• melons and gourds
• greens
• leafy vegetables

how to plant radish correctly?

What to plant after carrots, after which to plant carrots and why?

Carrots are very fond of prepared soil: plowed, dug up and fertilized. You can plant carrots after almost any plant, just not after the carrot itself.

Best of all, carrots will take root where they used to grow:

• bulbous vegetables
• tomatoes and other vegetables of the nightshade family
• cabbage of any kind and of any kind
• potatoes and other root vegetables
• lettuce and leafy vegetables
• greens

After carrots, crops such as:

• vegetables of the melons family
• salad and any other leafy vegetables
• cabbage of any kind
• mustard
• any greens

how to plant carrots? then plant the carrots?

What to plant after eggplant, after which to plant eggplant and why?

Gardeners know that eggplants are able to get along well with many cultures. They perfectly coexist with nightshades, but categorically do not grow in the soil after them.

Eggplants should not be planted in soil after:

• pepper of any kind and any kind
• tomatoes and other "nightshade" vegetables
• potatoes, as well as some other root crops: carrots, beets

Best of all, eggplants take root where they previously grew:

• cabbage of any kind and type
• greens and leafy vegetables
• salad
• legumes

after which should you plant the eggplant?

What to plant after peas, after which to plant peas and why?

Legumes, in particular peas, are excellent precursors to crops such as:

• nightshade vegetables
• vegetables of the melons family
• cabbage of any kind and variety
• bulbous vegetables
• roots

It is worth noting that almost any crop can be planted after legumes and peas, since the soil is considered “rested”.

after what should peas be planted?

What to plant after zucchini, after which to plant zucchini and why?

Zucchini, like pumpkin, are able to accept any soil, even the one that is very "tired" from the previous harvest. They are not whimsical in nurturing and all they need is water and light. Zucchini feeds on completely different nutrients, unlike any root vegetables and nightshades, and often successfully coexist with these vegetables.

It is possible to get a good and high-quality crop of zucchini if \u200b\u200byou plant them in the soil where they were harvested before:

• legumes
• bulbous plants
• greens and leafy vegetables, salad
• nightshade crops
• roots

Zucchini feeds on soil at its own level, and therefore the most successful will be the subsequent planting of plants of completely different families:

• tomatoes will take root well and give a good harvest
• this place will be extremely successful for any root crops
• legumes
• any cabbage
• eggplant
• bulbous plants

Zucchini should never be planted next to other melons and gourds because they need the same supply of nutrients and are capable of suffering from the same "diseases".

after which to plant a zucchini?

What to plant after parsley, after which to plant parsley and why?

The success of a good and high-quality harvest is the constant change of planting sites for vegetables. So crops have the opportunity to receive the necessary nutrients, grow large fruits and not die.

If you plant greens in the same place every year for several years, then you can hardly achieve a good harvest. In the end, the soil is depleted, does not have the necessary set of trace elements and the plant is doomed to die. Parsley is a greenery that can take root in any place where it has not yet grown:

• after nightshade vegetables
• in the place where root crops grow
• where there used to be melons and gourds
• in soil after bulbous plants

The only limitation is considered to be other greens, leafy vegetables, which feed on the same set of micronutrients. It is not advisable to sow parsley where sorrel, lettuce, dill, basil and other similar plants previously grew.

after which to plant parsley?

After parsley, it is allowed to plant any vegetable crop in the ground - everything except greens.

What to plant after sorrel, after which to plant sorrel and why?

Like any leafy vegetables, as well as greens, sorrel feeds on microelements at a certain soil level. You can even plant sorrel there, before that, tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables had grown there for many years.

Sorrel can only fail to take root in the soil that for many years yielded any greens, lettuce, spinach, parsley and dill. After sorrel, it is recommended to plant absolutely any family of vegetables.

after which to plant sorrel?

What to plant after melon and watermelon, after which to plant melons and watermelons and why?

Melon and watermelon are fruits of the melon family. They do not have deep roots and grow where the soil is well hydrated and there is an abundance of light. It is known that in order to get an impressive and good harvest of these fruits, they must be grown separately from each other and from related crops. This is because the soil is able to spread their "family" diseases and quickly deplete its supply of essential nutrients.

Best of all, both melon and watermelon will bear fruit where they were previously planted:

• nightshade vegetables
• any root vegetables
• legumes
• cabbage
• greens
• leafy vegetables and salad
• bulbous vegetables

Taking the necessary nutrients from the soil, melons leave a supply of trace elements that will have a beneficial effect on the harvest of other crops. Therefore, after melon and watermelon, you can plant in the soil:

• any root vegetables
• tomatoes, eggplant, peppers
• bulbous crops
• legumes
• greens and leafy vegetables

where and after what to plant watermelon and melon?

What to plant after beans, after which to plant beans and why?

Unlike other legumes, beans are the most demanding plant in the family. It always gives a good harvest only if the soil is full of nutrients, moist and saturated with fertilizer. Beans do not "tolerate" weeds and loves the land that is clean from them.

Beans will never grow where sunflower crops were previously harvested. However, it will work well after:

• root crops
• nightshade
• corn
• cereals
• melons

Beans are a good precursor vegetable for most other plants. But it is worth knowing that it is the beans that should be transplanted annually, since they tend to get sick often and abundantly.

after which to plant beans?

What to plant after dill, after which to plant dill and why?

Dill is the most unpretentious plant that can grow in absolutely any place and in any soil. Most often, dill spreads and moves on its own through the garden plot, choosing the most comfortable place for itself. Dill does not require any strict observance of crop rotation and neighborhood and always gives a large-scale and good harvest. Dill can be safely planted and sown where the soil requires "rest".

after which to plant dill?

What to plant after corn, after which to plant corn and why?

Corn is a crop that "loves" plowed soil, moisturized and fed with fertilizers. You can get a good harvest of this plant if it is planted in soil that was previously sown with legumes or other grain plants. The quality of the crop also depends on how good and nutritious the crop is regularly fed.

After corn, you can confidently plant crops such as:

• peas and other legumes (soybeans or beans)
• some root vegetables if the soil is moist enough, such as beets or carrots
• perennial greens and leafy vegetables
• winter crops

after which to plant corn?

What to plant after mustard, after which to plant mustard and why?

Mustard is a popular oilseed spring crop, which is extremely useful to include in a crop rotation in any garden plot. Mustard does not "age" and does not "deplete" the soil, and therefore it is often planted when the soil should be given a short or long "rest" from nightshade vegetables or root vegetables.

Tilled crops as well as cereals are the best option, which can grow on soil up to mustard. In this case, it will give the highest quality and abundant harvest.

then plant mustard?

Video: What to plant after strawberries?