How to grow carrots: the secrets of a good harvest. Method of growing carrots (Sverdlovsk region) Soil preparation for sowing carrots
Anyone can grow long and even root crops on their site. The main thing in this matter is not to be lazy and do all the necessary agricultural work as needed. So, let's begin.
The first thing to do is find a suitable planting site and prepare the soil. The quality of carrots directly depends on the type of land. Therefore, for this, on the one hand, unpretentious vegetable, it is necessary to choose light in mechanical composition, fertile places where there is good drainage. In addition, the place where the bed will be located should be flat, as open as possible and well lit. It should also be taken into account at this stage that the best predecessors for carrots are onions, cabbage, early potatoes, especially if they were brought under organic fertilizers. But the beds where celery (celery, cumin, dill, fennel) grew before that, and it is better not to use carrots in this case, since it is unlikely that you will be able to grow a good harvest. How to grow carrots if the plot is small and land rotation is difficult? Everything is quite simple: since the situation is almost hopeless, only a strong ashing of the soil remains: 0.2-0.3 kg of wood ash is scattered on one square meter of soil and dug up. The operation is performed twice a year.
As for the preparation of the soil itself, this must be done in the fall, so that the land has time to settle before sowing. Previously, the place where the vegetable will grow is cleared of stones, after which they are carefully dug up, digging for a bayonet or even two, and form a high bed. If necessary, fertilizing should be applied to poor soils - humus; in heavy soils - peat, sawdust and river sand; acidic lands are alkalized with chalk (lime). But in any case, fresh manure is not recommended to be applied, otherwise the root crops may grow ugly. Growing carrots in soils with a high water table without a significant rise in the height of the ridge will result in an ugly crop. 
In the spring, when the bed warms up, 7-10 days before planting, it is necessary to loosen the ground well and disinfect it with a solution blue vitriol, which is prepared in the calculation of 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water. Then the bed is watered with warm water, about 30 - 40 ° C, after which the planting site is covered with a film, preferably dark. The last action will allow the earth to warm up and retain moisture. Of course, the last steps are not necessary if the spring turned out to be hot, and in winter there were considerable snowdrifts. You can also ignore the film if the harvest is supposed to be late. And finally, you can refuse to warm up if you are sure of the quality of the seeds, and also that there will definitely not be a cold temperature or, even more so, frosts.
Sowing an orange root crop depends solely on how much moisture is contained in the ground, as well as on the climatic conditions in which it will be grown: if we are talking about the central zone of Russia or a climate similar to it, then the sowing time will be 20-25 April. A little earlier (7-14 days) carrots are planted if the snow has already melted more than 21 days ago and relatively warm weather has set in without night frosts. A little later, carrots should be planted if the weather has not settled down, and at night negative values \u200b\u200bof the thermometer are observed. But do not delay the planting time - it would be optimal to land before the fifth of May, provided there is a complete absence of snow and the frequent absence of frosts. In the southern regions, carrots are planted in two stages - March 10-20 (for summer consumption) and June 10-15 (seed planting and for winter consumption).
Seeds should be treated with warm water (rinse two or three times), and then covered in a damp cloth for swelling and passage of moisture to the seed through the crust containing a large amount of hydrophobic essential oils. If this is not done, then there is a high probability of a delay in seedlings for a period of 2-3 weeks, which worsens the ripening of the root crop. Also, to accelerate seedlings, you can carry out the following procedures: 
- Bubbling. Carrot seeds are placed in a vessel with water, the temperature of which is above room temperature (optimally - 25g. C). Water is aerated by an air pump during the day, after which the planting material is removed and put into the refrigerator on the middle shelf, where it is stored for about 3-5 days. 12 hours before sowing, they are removed from the refrigerator and dried to flowability, after which they are planted in beds. Germination in this case will take 5-7 days.
- Burrowing into the soil. Dry planting material is placed in a linen bag and buried in a bed at the depth of a spade bayonet. Neither watering nor fertilizer is produced. After about 1.5-2 weeks, the bag is removed, its contents are dried on a dry cloth or parchment and planted in a garden bed. Germination will take approximately 4-5 days.
- nutrient solution. The seed is laid out on a fabric base, covered with a cloth on top, poured with a nutrient solution for 24 hours. The nutrient medium can be a mixture boric acid, nitrophoska and water (ratio 1/3 tsp, 1/2 tsp and 1 liter of water, respectively); or potassium permanganate, dissolved in a liter of water until red, 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer. After soaking, the seed is washed in warm water and put in the refrigerator for half a week. After being removed from the refrigerator, they are dried to flowability and planted in the ground.
Carrots are planted along the grooves made in the garden. Optimally done as follows: furrow width with matchbox, depth in its half, interval 200-240mm. The extreme furrows are located 120 mm from the edges of the beds. The width of the furrow should not exceed 900mm (respectively, the ridge should be 1.1m). Before planting, the bed is shed with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds are scattered with a snake in a furrow with a step of 10-15 mm, after which mulching is carried out with soil, peat or peat-sand mixture. The planted ridge is covered with a film with a ventilation gap of 120-150 mm. Shelter will not only improve the preservation of heat and moisture, but also prevent the appearance of a carrot fly - a pest that can destroy the crop. 
Landing Care
cultivation good harvest requires mandatory care, but caring for a planted root crop is quite simple: it is enough to thin out the bed in time, loosen the soil as necessary, weed, feed and, of course, water.
Step 1 Thinning is carried out as the tops grow.
It is necessary to thin out the carrots at the first shoots; the smallest (and therefore the least viable) shoots are pulled out with an interval of 20-25 mm between root crops. The second thinning is carried out in June-July with an interval of 75-100 mm. The second thinning allows the extracted roots to be used for food or livestock feed. It may be necessary to defuse the carrots for the third time if the fruits obviously interfere with each other.
Step 2 It is important not to forget to feed the carrots
In the period from the appearance of the fifth or sixth leaves + 2-3 days, mineral fertilizers are applied. After feeding, the first hilling can be done, which is repeated after the first thinning, after the second thinning and then every 2-4 weeks. Hilling helps to cover the fruit in the ground, avoid sunburn and greenish shoulders. Also, when growing, you can adhere to the three-phase method: 5,7,10 leaves. But it should be borne in mind that in any case, the fruits should be underground at a depth of about 50mm. 
Step 3 Watering carrots
Watering carrots should be intense enough to prevent drying of the soil, but not excessive to prevent its hypothermia. The best thing is uniform watering, because with a lack of water, the roots become coarse and “wooden, with an excess - small and tasteless. It is best to adhere to the following watering tactics:
Harvest and storage
Harvesting takes place in late September - early October. The root crop is pulled out of the ground by the tops, after which it is placed on the ground nearby to quickly remove excess moisture from its surface. If loosening and weeding during the growing period were not done regularly and the soil hardened, it is possible to dig in with a garden bracket. But this must be done in such a way as not to damage the fetus.
If the harvest is carried out in rainy weather, then the harvested carrots are laid out in a dry room. The total drying time is about 1-1.5 hours (i.e. until the surface is visible dry). 
After drying, it is necessary to trim the tops. It is most convenient to do this with a knife or garden pruner if the tops are powerful and thick. The greens are cut off at the root, without damaging the root crop. At the same time, the crop is sorted: all damaged, rotten, crooked fruits are discarded. Smooth, undamaged carrots are placed in a ventilated box and stored in a cool, dark place.
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19.03.2015 | 8758
When growing carrots, it is important to form a bed that is suitable specifically for this crop.
Good garden is already a success. On the right bed, plants are easier to care for: water, weed, fertilize and harvest. A well-chosen bed will contribute to the development of the plant.
flat bed
Usually carrots are grown on a flat bed. But such plantings are inconvenient to water and feed. In addition, it can be problematic to pull a ripe carrot out of such a bed - only tops remain in the hands, and the root crop continues to cling tightly to the ground.
Stitch fit
Another way to grow planting with one line along the crest of the row. I think that this method is better than the usual flat bed. Carrots planted on ridges are more convenient to thin out, you can freely walk along the grooves, which greatly facilitates care. But such beds also have a lot of disadvantages. While the crops are very young, there are problems with watering, the water simply rolls off the rounded ridge. Watering from the bottom along the groove is only suitable for mature plants. In addition, young carrots are inconvenient to feed and loosen.
high bed
After trying different cultivation techniques, I settled on a two-line planting on high garden. To do this, I cut rows with a wide flat comb. Along the ridge I have two lines of crops.
Step by step, the whole work looks like this:
- With a marker or pegs with a rope, I mark out future beds on the site. It should be borne in mind that the width of the ridge will be 30-35 cm. I make the grooves between the rows convenient for walking and watering the width, usually also 30-35 cm.
- I dig rows with a shovel. It is important that the earth at this moment is slightly damp. Dry soil forms hard lumps, unacceptable when growing carrots. If lumps still form, be sure to break them with a shovel.
- I level the soil well with a rake in order to finally deal with lumps. At the same time, I form ridges about 20 cm high with a flat top 30-35 cm wide. I level the earth on the ridges especially carefully.
- With the corner of a chopper I cut two shallow parallel grooves along the crest. The distance between the grooves is 10-15 cm.
- I sow carrots in the grooves, sprinkle with earth and be sure to mulch with sand or small sawdust.
Caring for such a bed is very convenient. I water crops and young shoots with a watering can or through a sprayer put on a hose. Water is well retained on the flat surface of the beds and does not roll anywhere. When the time comes for top dressing, I make a narrow groove between the lines of seedlings and already apply fertilizer into it.
Over time, carrots grow, root crops go deep into the beds. From this moment I start watering along the aisles, because the water will flow directly to the growing root crop. For top dressing, I make grooves no longer between the lines of carrots, but on both sides at the base of the beds.
high beds well warmed by the sun. Plants in warm soil grow faster and develop better. If the weather is cold and rainy, high beds save carrots from stagnant water and, as a result, from fungal diseases and decay.
Harvesting from such beds is a pleasure. If the root crop does not want to be pulled out, there is always the opportunity to shake it slightly - a small section of the bed will collapse, but the carrot will be extracted safe and sound.
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Carrots do not require special care, but the rules of cultivation must be followed. It is a drought-resistant crop, tolerates frosts and prolonged cold snaps. How to grow carrots? The secrets, like those of other vegetables, lie in the correct agricultural technology.
She demands more care compared to other cultures. Let's take a closer look at how to grow carrots in the country or garden plot with your own hands.
Soil preparation
It is required to choose a bright place before growing carrots. The secrets lie in the fact that with a lack of sunlight due to a falling shadow or uneven surface of the beds, root crops lose their sugar content and mass.
Before you grow a good crop of carrots, you need to choose a light and even soil. It should be sandy, light loamy, with good drainage. In dense loam, the fruits grow small; during storage, they are quickly affected by rot. Carrots should not be planted on acidic soils. It requires a neutral or slightly acidic environment.
Before you grow good carrots, you need to
The bed is prepared in the fall so that it settles down. It is made loose. To do this, add sawdust, humus, peat or sand. Chalk, lime, dolomite, ash are used for liming. Manure for growing carrots should not be used, because it turns out not very beautiful and poorly stored root crops. Humus should be applied to poor soil - a bucket per square meter. If groundwater is close, the bed is made high.
The arable layer is well formed with the help of green manure roots - plants that create a good soil structure. They are sown in the garden in the fall, in order to plant carrots in this place in the spring. Worms and microorganisms also create good soil structure.
Carrot beds should be constantly changed. Predecessors should be garlic, onions, cabbage, potatoes. How to grow large carrots if you have to grow the same crop in one place? The introduction of wood ash twice a year in the amount of 0.2 kg / m 2 will help here, followed by digging.
In the spring, a week before planting, the bed is leveled, loosened, treated with a 0.3% solution of vitriol, watered with warm water, and then covered with a polyethylene film. During this time, it will retain moisture and warm up well in the sun.
How to prepare seeds for sowing
Germination of carrot seeds is small - 55-75%. In this regard, the seeds should be taken fresh. In addition, carrots do not differ in uniform germination. After 2-3 weeks, the first shoots should appear. Seeds germinate for a long time due to the presence of essential oils on their surface, which slow down the penetration of moisture.
Before growing, it is necessary to prepare for sowing. Consider several ways to pre-germinate them.
Soak
Seeds are poured into cloth bags and kept for a day in warm water. Water must be changed every four hours. It can be made into a nutrient solution by adding wood ash (30 g/l). After the seeds must be washed.
The method will be more effective if additional hardening is performed. Seeds in wet bags are placed in the refrigerator for 2-5 days.
Soaking with nutrient solution
Use a weak solution of potassium permanganate with the addition of ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per liter of water or a mixture of nitrophoska and boric acid (1/3 teaspoon and 1/2 teaspoon per liter of water, respectively). Seeds are scattered on gauze folded several times, and also covered with it from above and poured with a solution for a day. The liquid level should be just above the tissue. Then they are washed with water and put in the refrigerator for three to four days.
If the weather does not allow planting seeds, they are left on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, keeping them moist all the time. In this case, you need to ensure that they do not germinate more than 0.5 cm.
Heat treatment
Heat treatment of seeds consists in their successive immersion in hot and cold water. They are poured into a bag and rinsed at a temperature of 50 degrees, and then dipped in a solution of humate and kept warm for two days. As a result, the germination of not only carrots, but also parsley and dill is accelerated.
bubbling
Bubbling speeds up the seed preparation process. An air or oxygen supply hose with an emery stone filter at the end is brought to the bottom of a non-metallic water container. A mesh with seeds is placed on top.
During the bubbling process, the water is saturated with air. At home, a small aquarium compressor is enough for this. Bubbling time for carrot seeds is 17-24 hours. After the material is removed to the middle shelf of the refrigerator, where it is stored for 3-5 days. Before sowing, the seeds are dried for 12 hours so that they become free-flowing, and sown.
Burying seeds in the soil
Dry seeds are placed in cloth bags and buried in the ground with a shovel to a depth of one bayonet, where they should be at least 10-12 days. Then they are taken out and sown in the garden. After such treatment, seedlings should appear in five days.
Another way is to mix the seeds with moist peat and keep them in a warm place for at least one week. During this period, they have time to germinate, after which they are sown. Before planting in the ground, the seeds are dried for 20-25 minutes on parchment or cloth at room temperature.
How to grow carrots. Secrets of sowing and care
Before planting, seeds are selected and purchased that are most suitable for a particular region. You can also get them yourself. Before growing carrot seeds, you should find a good and large root crop, and then plant it in the spring. By autumn it will be ripe.
Carrots grow for about three months. To get a harvest in September, planting should be done no later than May. Sowing dates cover the period from the end of April to the first decade of June. Landing before May 5 is considered optimal.
Before winter, carrots are planted when the soil becomes cold enough. It can be from the end of October to the beginning of November. Sowing and harvesting times vary by variety and region. Northern varieties should not be planted in the south, as they will grow slowly. If grown in middle lane southern varieties, they give abundant tops, while root crops do not develop. Some varieties bred abroad are poorly stored.
Should be done on time otherwise beneficial features and the keeping quality of root crops may deteriorate.
Small carrot seeds should be evenly spread in the groove. Therefore, they are mixed with sand or peat and sown in a garden bed.
So that neighboring rows do not interfere with her growth? To ensure sufficient illumination, it is better to make the beds narrow - no more than four rows of carrots.
Along the edge, bumpers are made to prevent water from running off. The distance between the rows should be 15 cm, and for late varieties - 20 cm. The bed is watered with water and sprinkled with ash. Seeds are placed in grooves at a distance of about 2.5 cm.
During spring-summer plantings, swollen seeds are planted shallowly - by 3-4 cm. They should be sprinkled with very light soil, which is used as black soil mixed with peat, sand or humus. Then, a ventilation gap is made from the film above the bed at a distance of about 12-15 cm.
The first shoots in warm weather appear in a week. If the temperature is below 12 degrees, the time is doubled. If there are empty places, additional sowing is done.
For many gardeners, the question of how to grow early carrots is problematic. Actually, it's easy. Planting carrots in autumn early varieties to a depth of 2 cm, and then sprinkled with mulch to a height of 3-4 cm. In this case, the soil temperature should be below +5 degrees. When there is little snow in winter, the beds are additionally covered with them to a height of up to 50 cm. With this method of planting, the crop is harvested earlier than usual by 2-3 weeks.
Plant thinning
How to grow a good crop of carrots if it has risen well? To do this, you need to do a thorough thinning of seedlings after the appearance of the third leaf.
All this is not as simple as it seems at first glance. In order for the plants to be well removed, the bed should be watered and the soil carefully loosened. In addition, the operation should be performed during the day so as not to attract a pest - a carrot fly flying in the evening.
Sprouts should be removed with tweezers, leaving a distance of at least 2 cm. The smallest shoots are removed. The tops are thrown away from the beds. In no case should you leave it nearby, so as not to attract pests. A good deterrent is onion arrows, which are crushed and scattered in the garden. You can cover the crops with special material. The earth around the plants is slightly crushed. After 20 days, thinning is repeated. At the same time, a distance of 6 cm is left between the carrots.
The aisles need to be loosened and weeded (at least once a week) so that a sufficient amount of oxygen enters the roots. After thinning the aisle, mulch with compost or sawdust soaked for several weeks in a 2-3% urea solution.
How to grow large carrots? Here you need the right dosage of fertilizers. They cannot be applied in large quantities at once. Carrot beds begin to fertilize with mineral water when 5-6 sheets appear. The frequency of feeding is 2-4 weeks. This culture especially does not like excess nitrogen.
In the process of growth, the upper part of the root crop comes out of the ground and turns green. It does no harm, but the taste gets worse. How to grow sweet carrots so that they do not lose their taste? When root crops appear from the ground, they are spudded, raking the ground on them with a height of about 50 mm.
Watering carrot beds
Poor germination of carrots is associated primarily with the drying of the soil. Until she has risen, the top layer of the bed should be constantly wet. Sometimes the earth should be watered even several times a day. Granular seeds germinate especially hard. Immediately after sowing, the bed is protected with a film so that the top layer does not dry out.
Until the roots appear, watering is done after 3-4 days, 3-4 buckets per 1 m 2. At the same time, they independently grow in depth and find moisture. Therefore, watering is done once a week, 1-2 buckets per m 2, and from the end of August - 1 time in 1.5-2 weeks, 8-10 liters per square. The beds are kept for two weeks without watering until harvest.
Rough root crops are an indicator that they lacked moisture. With its excess, the fruits grow small. Sharp changes from drying to excess moisture are also harmful, leading to cracking of the carrot and subsequent poor preservation.
Carrots are not afraid of cold weather, but at temperatures below 8 degrees, starch in root crops turns into sugar, and the keeping quality of root crops deteriorates. In the middle lane, the crop is harvested at the end of September in dry weather.
Collected within 1.5-2 hours, and then cut off the tops. The crop is sorted, flat carrots are placed in a ventilated box in a dark and cool place. It could be a cellar or basement.
Conclusion
You will never be able to reap a good harvest if you do not know how to grow carrots. The secrets of agricultural technology lie in proper preparation soil, proper planting and care. As a result, in the fall you will get large and even root crops.
Carrots are an extremely common vegetable. The scope of its application is limited not only to cooking. This is food and medicine, and raw materials for the chemical industry. Carrots are unpretentious in storage, they perfectly “survive” until the beginning of next spring. Mankind has been growing carrots for more than four thousand years, and it would seem that all the nuances of the process are known and understood, however, carrots are one of the most difficult vegetables to grow.
The battle for a quality harvest must begin in the fall, six months before the planned planting. If we want to get a high-quality crop of carrots, then it is necessary to make the soil in the beds for carrots loose and deeply processed. Here it is necessary to take into account many nuances, starting from the composition of the soil and ending with the choice of location and size of the beds.It may seem that there is nothing complicated in sowing and caring for carrots, however, this is not so. Without proper preparation and care, a carrot bed will not be able to please the owner with a good harvest.
Choice of landing site
Carrots do best in flat, sunny areas. However, a slight slope will not particularly harm her, the main thing is good illumination, since there is a noticeable decrease in yield in the shade or partial shade. Under such conditions, the roots are short and thin. Attention should be paid to the level of groundwater. Carrots do not like dampness, so the carrot bed should be located in areas with dry, well-ventilated soil. As such, the quality of the soil does not play a special role - carrots can be grown almost anywhere. Various additives and baits are used depending on soil types.The predecessors of carrots can be cruciferous (cabbage, turnip, etc.) or nightshade (tomatoes, potatoes). However, crops such as dill, parsley or celery cannot be neighbors or predecessors of carrots. The optimal neighbor of carrots is onions - both plants drive each other's pests away.
You should also know that carrots can be planted in the same place no earlier than four years later.
Soil pre-treatment
Carrots need loose and soft soil. In hard soil, the growth of root crops will be difficult and the result will be squat, inconvenient for processing roots of small mass.The optimal soil for carrots is loam or even sandy soil. It should include humus (5% is enough), it should pass moisture and air well. The soil is dug up to the depth of one shovel bayonet. The choice of the autumn period as the beginning of work is not accidental - during the winter and the subsequent thaw, the soil will sink well and acquire the necessary consistency. All other work is carried out in early spring, a month or a half before landing.
If the bed for carrots is located on medium-heavy soil, it must be dug up with sawdust or a peat mixture. The concentration of peat should be approximately 3-5 kg per 1 sq. m of soil. Acidic soil requires liming. In this case, fluffy lime is used in the amount of 1 cup per 1 sq. m. If it is not possible to get lime, you can use chalk or dolomite flour. In extreme cases, you can use ordinary ash (meaning wood ash, in no case coal ash) at the rate of half a liter of ash per 1 sq.m. Liming can be carried out both in autumn and in spring.
If we are dealing with poor soil, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers under carrots in early spring. Depending on the fertility of the soil, their amount can range from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m. After fertilization, the soil is loosened with a rake or flat cutter. An important point is that you can not dig up the soil immediately before planting the seeds. It is also forbidden to use manure for carrot fertilizer - only compost or humus should be used.
Bed for carrots various types soil requires various additives. For example, peatlands need to add the following components per square meter:
- river sand - about 6 kg;
- compost - about 5 kg;
- mineral fertilizers (10-25 g of superphosphate and nitrate each).
Carrots do not like fertilizers containing chlorine. From them, root crops begin to branch and bend. The same picture occurs with excessive abuse of nitrogenous fertilizers, so the use of dressings should be in strict accordance with the recommended standards.
Garden preparation
This vegetable is planted not by scattering, but in even rows, which should be reflected in the design of the beds. Usually use two- or three-row beds with a width of about a meter of arbitrary length. Such a bed for carrots will always allow you to access any plant on it. The use of more than three rows in the garden is undesirable, since the distance between rows is recommended at least 20 cm.
If the groundwater level is no more than half a meter, in order to avoid diseases of root crops, it is necessary to make high beds. Their height can vary from 20 to 35 cm. In this case, the sides of the beds must be strengthened, for example, with a tree or any other available material.
Sowing seeds
Planting carrot seeds is carried out in the spring. Depending on what the use of carrots is planned for (for eating immediately after harvest or for harvesting for the winter), its planting time may vary significantly. Sowing under root crops depending on climatic conditions is divided into: - ultra-early sowing (mid-end of March) - suitable only for regions where there are no frosts at this time;
- early spring sowing (mid-April - early May) - the standard method of sowing carrots to obtain root crops in the summer;
- summer sowing (mid-May - late June) - sowing for harvesting root crops in autumn for subsequent storage and use in winter;
- winter sowing (from mid-October to late November) - will allow you to get the most early harvest, but not suitable for all types of terrain.
Immediately before planting, the bed must be watered abundantly. After that, the seeds are covered. Sometimes the seeds are mixed with sand to make it easier to evenly distribute them over the surface of the recess. You should not plant carrots too densely, as a large number of sprouts will interfere with each other.
After the landing is made, the recess is filled with earth, it is compacted and mulched. You can cover the bed with a layer of humus or compost. Straw or dried grass can be used as mulch.
When pecking sprouts through the mulch, it is removed and the first watering is done. Do not water until the mulch is removed. Sowing carrots like this stimulates the initial growth of the root system instead of sprouts. The growth of the tops is inhibited and it does not take most of the minerals for itself.
Carrots are inherently cold-resistant, seed germination begins already at temperatures above 4 °C. This allows you to sow the beds in a fairly early period, as a rule, this is the middle of March. On the other hand, carrots do not like a too warm climate: the optimum temperature for growing it is 18-22 ° C; at temperatures above 25 ° C, the growth of carrots noticeably slows down.
It is advisable to pre-treat the seeds. They are wrapped in a cloth and washed for half an hour under running water. hot water with a temperature of at least 50 °C. This treatment removes from seeds essential oils that inhibit their germination. After that, the fabric with seeds for half an hour is placed in a one percent solution of potassium permanganate and washed well. It is advisable, after washing the seeds from potassium permanganate, soak them for 2-3 hours in a solution of some biostimulant (for example, Ecopin) with a concentration of 0.5%. Then the seeds should be dried and they can be sown in the garden.
Use of narrow beds
Currently, narrow beds or, as they are also called, Mittlider beds, are gaining more and more popularity. Their main feature is the presence of high sides made of wooden planks, as well as isolation of the soil in the beds from the surrounding soil. Such beds have a number of advantages: they are easy to cultivate, they are not afraid of high groundwater levels, and they do not allow a variety of pests from the surrounding soil to enter the place of cultivation. In addition, this design protects crops from winds and does not allow weeds to get to them. Mittlider's bed is arranged as follows: a section 40-50 cm wide is marked, having an arbitrary length. Along the perimeter, the bed is equipped with sides from 20 to 40 cm high. The width of the sides is taken at least 4 cm - this ensures the strength of the structure, since it should not allow the soil mixture in it to spread. It will not be superfluous to treat the beds with a composition against mold and fungus. A film is laid at the bottom of the resulting structure.
The most important thing in the beds of Mittlider is the use of a special soil mixture.
Traditionally, it consists of perlite and a meadow mixture, however, more can be used. simple ways: mix in equal proportions the soil from the site with a peat mixture or compost. The beds are filled with soil in such a way that it does not reach the edge of the sides 5-10 cm. The distance between the narrow beds is chosen about 1 m.
A bed for carrots according to the Mitlider method requires the following planting scheme: in the middle of the bed, a strip of a mixture of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers is poured (about 50-60 g of the mixture per 1 meter). Seeds are sown on the sides of the fertilizer strip in such a way that the distance to it is at least 10 cm. At the same time, the distance to the sides of the planting rows should not be less than 5-7 cm. Such a scheme should be strictly followed, since deviations from it will lead to excessive enrichment root crops with fertilizers. With the correct observance of these recommendations, it is possible to remove 1.5-2 times more carrots from narrow beds than from ordinary ones.
October 29th, 2014 at 10:08 am
Hello Valery! Is it possible to mulch immediately with sawdust from horses soaked in urine, or do they need to age?
October 29th, 2014 at 10:40 am
Svetlana, it is better to add such sawdust to the compost.
November 2nd, 2014 at 9:33 am
Valerie, hello. This summer I have accumulated 3 buckets of sawdust from an electric planer. They are larger than cut ones. Do you think they can be used for planting carrots? And how best to age them over the winter? There is manure, compost, what is better to mix with?
November 2nd, 2014 at 9:43 am
Alexey, mix with manure and hold for a year, you will have good compost, but they are not suitable for mulching.
November 24th, 2014 at 6:43 pm
Hello Valery. I came across your site and I really like it. I also have a 4 acre garden and I would like to use your advice, but I can’t subscribe to your site, help me. Yours faithfully, Irina.
November 25th, 2014 at 9:39 am
Irina, you can register on the forum, and ask questions in the comments.
January 1st, 2015 at 1:11 pm
Valery, I see you have beautiful, clean carrots. I have it the second year eaten by a carrot fly. The next year I made boxes 75 cm. I read that a fly does not fly above 50 cm. Will it help?
January 2nd, 2015 at 2:30 pm
Everything can be, but I don’t grow carrots in the same garden for two years, I always do a crop rotation, then mulching with sawdust can help.
January 7th, 2015 at 10:06 pm
Yes, Valery, everything is cool. The problem is that our oligarchs, too, may not shun GMOs. I believe that every farmer should collect his own collection of seeds. Do you have experience growing and harvesting carrot seeds? Sincerely, Alexander
January 9th, 2015 at 10:53 am
This year I grew a little, the main thing is that there would be no other varieties in the neighborhood.
February 11th, 2015 at 1:15 am
Tell me, Valery, I heard that you can not plant carrots, beets, radishes and other root crops in a warm bed, as they will accumulate a lot of nitrates, only next year. And I really want to make warm beds. What do you think of it?
February 11th, 2015 at 8:17 am
Galina, do not put fresh manure in the bed and there will be no nitrates.
February 15th, 2015 at 10:32 pm
Hello Valery. Can you please tell me from what tree species can sawdust be used?
February 17th, 2015 at 9:07 am
From any kind of wood.
February 18th, 2015 at 6:06 pm
Hello Valery. Through what (or how) to sow sawdust for beds?
February 19th, 2015 at 8:17 am
I sow only for mulching small crops, like carrots, through any mesh, the stores are full of both metal and plastic ones for fences.
February 19th, 2015 at 3:52 pm
Hello Valery. I am a novice gardener, tell me, if you sow carrots on sawdust (groove), then the weeds will not crawl through, but how does it crawl through itself-carrots?
February 20th, 2015 at 8:25 am
I do not sow on sawdust, but under them, the layer where I sow the seeds turns out to be small, but more in the aisles.
March 18th, 2015 at 8:22 pm
Valery, we change sawdust from the chicken coop once a month, there are sawdust from the chicken coop 3-year-old, which is better. They advise sticking carrots on toilet paper, and mixing others with sand and fertilizer.
March 18th, 2015 at 8:34 pm
A warm bed for carrots is 600mm, I basically have 500 row spacing of 650mm, I understood that in order to fit 3 rows of carrots, 600 are needed.
March 19th, 2015 at 11:46 am
Sawdust can be used for any mulching, but if they are with chicken manure, then old ones are better for carrots. Sticking seeds or mixing with sand are methods that help to sow the seeds at the right distance, this saves the number of seeds and removes or makes it easier to thin out seedlings.
March 27th, 2015 at 12:25 pm
Hello! Tell me how you do with spruce branches, clean up, don’t clean up, when to clean up?
March 27th, 2015 at 4:07 pm
I use it as a protection against cats and remove it as soon as the carrots begin to sprout.
April 15th, 2015 at 2:09 pm
Hello Valery. I read your article about sawdust mulching. I went to the sawmill and collected several bags of old sawdust mixed with last year's foliage, only there is one doubt - all sawdust in consistency already resembles dust that smells of earth and I saw them in places white coating mold-like. Question: I won’t bring any thread of infection to my carrot bed in a place with sawdust? Thank you.
April 15th, 2015 at 5:18 pm
You won’t do it, mold is mushrooms that destroy wood, it won’t harm carrots, I have all the old sawdust with mushrooms, sometimes they even grow in beds.
April 17th, 2015 at 10:59 pm
Valery, you say the distance between seeds is on average 2 cm, is this taking into account subsequent thinning, or are granular seeds not thinned out? then 2 cm is not cramped for them with such a crop? I also saw such a gear device, which was already mentioned above, there it is designed for 4 or even 5 cm from each other.
April 20th, 2015 at 10:57 am
Two or three cm is just right, because it is impossible to predict 100% germination, and relatives can be ordered.
April 21st, 2015 at 12:09 am
Valery, hello. Tell me, please, for a beginner, and when you plant carrots, if not difficult, and when you need to sow beets and onions, we are not far from you (Yaroslavl) and at least somehow navigate, we learn gardening on your site. There are already high beds, seedlings are languishing, I really liked the article about potatoes, although I didn’t plan to plant them, but if everything is so easy and simple, only the planting dates for all crops for our region are not clear. It seems that carrots are planted first, then beets are planted, but when? Sorry for such questions, there are a lot of things on the Internet, but with certain disagreements, and you are so close, share a secret. I will be very grateful.
April 21st, 2015 at 12:54 pm
Lina, planting dates can be different even within the same village, to advise, it’s like poking into the sky, I would start to navigate my neighbors, especially old-timers, they know exactly when you need to plant and sow.
April 21st, 2015 at 3:20 pm
Unfortunately, all our neighbors so far only go to the dacha for the purpose of rest, still a young "village", then I will be guided by the temperature of the soil, in some of your videos I heard this, I will review it again. Thank you.
April 23rd, 2015 at 10:20 am
Check the temperature of the soil at a depth of 10 cm, it should be cool, but not cold, it is easy to feel it, try now to take a lump of earth from this depth and you will then understand when it starts to warm up.
April 24th, 2015 at 12:16 pm
May 6th, 2015 at 4:22 pm
please tell me, I made a warm bed in the spring, although I don’t know how it differs from the high one, what can be planted in it in the first year, otherwise some write that only zucchini and pumpkin are possible. soil, in a greenhouse I have already planted tomatoes and peppers on a warm bed. Yes, and the 2nd question, but sawdust can be laid on the bottom of warm beds or not
May 9th, 2015 at 9:59 am
Sawdust to the bottom is not worth it, but you can plant everything and it is warm only for a year, and then it is high, but it still warms up earlier and the yield is higher than on ordinary ones.
May 25th, 2015 at 11:32 am
Valery, can carrots be mulched with hay? Will it prevent the carrots from rising?
May 25th, 2015 at 1:25 pm
You should not mulch carrots with hay, you can’t suppress weeds under a thin layer, but it will be more difficult to weed them.
September 24th, 2015 at 10:06 am
Hello Valery. This year we have grown a good crop of carrots according to your recommendations, Thanks a lot To you! I would like to know how you determine the term for harvesting carrots, how you prepare them for storage (what is better to do with the tops - cut or cut off), how do you store them (in sand or ...)? And yet, many of our carrots cracked, can you tell me what is causing this? Thank you
September 24th, 2015 at 1:25 pm
The timing of harvesting depends on the variety of carrots, usually harvesting is carried out with partial yellowing of the leaves, but it is necessary to check that it does not overgrow, signs of this are the formation of roots throughout the fruit, it can crack due to an excess of nitrogen, uneven watering, overripe. The tops can be both cut off and cut with secateurs, after which you need to let the carrots dry. I store in dry moss, I used to store in dry sand, but it is heavy and difficult to carry and get it out of the underground.
September 25th, 2015 at 9:46 am
Good afternoon
This year I sowed your carrot seeds: the germination is ideal - I harvested a good harvest.
Thank you very much!
September 25th, 2015 at 10:10 am
Valery, but I didn’t find carrot seeds in the catalogs, will you not have them?
September 25th, 2015 at 6:37 pm
Most likely they will be later, the year was cold, they ripen for a long time.
October 22nd, 2015 at 4:42 pm
Valery good afternoon. Thank you for such detailed information. I have been a gardener for only two years. Please tell me if it is necessary to change the landing places for the next year. If a carrot grew, can it be planted in the same garden? Everywhere they write about green manure, but we remove carrots and beets late and siderats do not have time to gain strength?
October 24th, 2015 at 9:47 am
It is necessary to change the place, I sow green manure after crops that I harvest early, onions, garlic, it is best to sow carrots on these beds, and I put compost on a carrot bed in the fall, and plant on it in the spring either onions, garlic or tomatoes.
October 25th, 2015 at 10:35 pm
Thank you very much for the answer. I will do so next year.
November 21st, 2015 at 8:48 pm
Hello. I bought carrot seeds from you last year. Are they good for planting next year? Or do you have to buy new ones every year?
November 23rd, 2015 at 11:23 am
Suitable, only every year the germination will decrease a little, but this is noticeable after three to four years.
January 2nd, 2016 at 10:50 am
Hello Valery, I just want to say a huge THANK YOU for your seeds and detailed recommendations for both beginner gardeners and experienced gardeners! Today in Odnoklassniki in one of the groups I saw a recommendation for growing carrots with your photo at the beginning of the article, I would like to know if you are really the author? I quote:
“I sow carrots in the following way.
Carrot love deep
cultivated fertile soil. I don't thin out, almost. I proceed as follows:
10-12 days before sowing, we tie the carrot seeds in a rag (freer).
We dig into the moist earth on the bayonet of a shovel (important!). During this period of
seeds, essential oils are weathered, which prevent the seeds from germinating. By
after the specified period, we dig out the nodules with seeds from the ground. The seeds will
already swollen, large, almost germinated. Pour them into a bowl and powder with the usual
starch. The seeds stop sticking to the fingers and will later be clearly visible on a dark
wet ground. If the soil is dry, water the furrow before sowing. When the water is gone
carefully place the seeds in the grooves
with the desired interval and sprinkle with dry (!) Earth. Carrots germinate 3-5 days after sowing!
Moreover, without watering, since watering from above will create a crust from the ground over the seeds, and
it will be very difficult for them to break through. All! This is where the worries ended. up to the very
seedlings. You can’t water it, otherwise the carrot will grow short and tasteless. ”
January 3rd, 2016 at 2:51 pm
I didn’t write this and I always thin out carrots, but I heard about digging into the ground before sowing.
January 13th, 2016 at 10:58 am
Valery, I purchased Krepysh carrot seeds from you. How long does it take from planting to harvest. I just want to guess so I can dig it up in October for further winter storage.
January 13th, 2016 at 1:07 pm
Approximately 130-140 days. But you should not do late sowing in order to remove it later, early sowings allow you to partially get away from the carrot fly and germination is better than in late sowings.
January 13th, 2016 at 4:44 pm
Thank you very much for your advice. In the video, you talk about coated seeds, but do simple ones need to be processed before sowing, such as in ACC or just hold in warm water? Some write that they soak for an hour, and one madam, in general, keeps it in warm water for 3 days, then treats it with starch and sows.
January 15th, 2016 at 10:11 am
There are many ways to process, I recently switched to ACC.
January 31st, 2016 at 9:30 pm
Valery, every year I change places of carrots and onion. I plant onions before winter Stuttgart, Sturon, Radar. I have to hurry with the preparation of the beds after the carrots. I don’t dig up the ground, I just level it with a rake after harvesting and sow mustard. And then, in the fall, I plant onions. I want to say that I did not have big failures. From a 6-meter bed (planting in 3 rows), I have 20-25 kg of onions. Failure - 14 kg was 1 year old when part of the bow went into the arrow. Maybe I need to somehow process the bed differently? Please tell me. For me, both the earth and all plants are living things. And all the time it seems to me that I don’t give something to the garden where carrots grew. Feelings of guilt do not leave ... Thanks in advance
February 1st, 2016 at 9:39 am
And carrots and onions take a lot from the soil nutrients, green manure alone may not be enough, once every two years you can add compost to the beds.
February 4th, 2016 at 11:38 pm
Valery, good time of day.
Thank you so much, I received your seeds of tomatoes, peppers and Krepysh today. I am a beginner gardener, so...
Can you please tell me if your seeds need to be treated before sowing? Thanks in advance.
February 5th, 2016 at 8:50 am
February 16th, 2016 at 11:18 pm
Hello Valery, please tell me how to feed carrots, onions, beets, garlic from organic matter
February 19th, 2016 at 4:31 pm
Herbal and ash infusion.
February 22nd, 2016 at 4:53 pm
Valery, is it possible to use fallen needles instead of sawdust for mulching? Thank you.
February 23rd, 2016 at 8:57 am
March 9th, 2016 at 11:00 am
Valery, thank you for your work and for sharing information. Please tell me the direction in which you need to install high beds for growing plants? Are there any particularities or is it all in the same direction?
March 9th, 2016 at 2:11 pm
If the plot is with a slope, then the beds are installed with a ladder across the slope, if not, then from south to north.
March 15th, 2016 at 11:02 am
Valery, have you tried using mushroom blocks as mulch or fertilizer? We sell a lot of them and inexpensively, but I have not found reviews on the Internet anywhere.
March 16th, 2016 at 1:59 pm
As a fertilizer, they are not very nutritious, because, as I understand it, these are the blocks left after growing mushrooms, but as a mulch they are suitable and populate them with Gliocladin, this is such a fungus, you will also protect yourself from many diseases
March 17th, 2016 at 7:57 pm
Valery, thank you very much for your advice and for helping ordinary people
October 5th, 2017 at 8:39 pm
Hello Valery! Please tell me, if I removed the onion from the garden and blew the phacelia, then after it I can plant the onion again, will the onion be shielded after the sidirat or the onion after the onion?
October 6th, 2017 at 8:13 am
It’s better to change the garden anyway, phacelia will help another crop, it does not guarantee the avoidance of pests and diseases.
October 8th, 2017 at 5:38 pm
Thanks Valery! And if, before planting, shed a bed with a solution of copper sulfate, and in the spring after the snow melts again, will this not help get rid of pests? And tell me, please, what is the best way to cover the beds with garlic and onions for the winter with freshly cut grass or peat, or hay? This is what I have at the moment. Or maybe you have best advice?
October 13th, 2017 at 8:21 am
