Method for growing carrots (Sverdlovsk region). How to grow good and large carrots Which beds are better to grow carrots
How to grow root crops
For successful cultivation root crops, certain rules must be observed. The soil before sowing should be freed from weeds and well dug up to a depth of at least a spade bayonet (30-35 cm), it should be finely cloddy, without hard stones.
For root crops, soil with a pH reaction of 5.5 to 6.5 is suitable, that is, a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. You can not deoxidize the soil immediately before sowing, this should be done in the fall. Root crops require loose, moisture- and breathable soil. Light loams rich in organic matter are best suited for them. These crops do not like a large amount of mineral fertilizers.
At the first stage of cultivation, they need moist soil, but during the period of growth of the root crop, soil moisture should be very moderate. Usually, in order to force the plant to enter the fruiting stage as soon as possible, they create a stressful situation for it: cut off or cut off part of the roots to reduce the flow nutrients from the soil, reduce irrigation rates, stop fertilizing. These methods are not suitable for root crops and cabbage, they must be well fed for almost most of the season, since what we grow is just a pantry for next year's crop - seeds, and it must be well filled. The better the root crop or head of cabbage this year, the higher quality seeds we will get next year. Seeds, not roots or heads, are the crop of these crops. But you and I are not interested in seeds, but in root crops - the very pantries that plants create for their future offspring.
The main pest of root crops is the vegetable fly. Protecting plantings from it is simple: cover them with spunbond or lutrasil or agrotex for the duration of the fly's summer. The first time all vegetable mosses fly during cherry blossoms. The second time - in July early August. Simultaneously with vegetable flies, a conspicuous white butterfly flies. As soon as she flashed, immediately cover your landings.
Characteristics of carrots
This is one of the most beloved and common root crops. Carrots belong to the celery family. It has been known to mankind for over two thousand years. Modern varieties of carrots come from the Mediterranean. There are several varieties of carrots that differ in shape, size, color, and sugar content.
Carrots love sand, loose, rich in organic matter, but not too greasy soil, prefers a lighted place, but puts up with a little shading. Grows best in neutral soil, but can also grow in slightly acidic soil. Carrots do not like soils that are dense or compacted after rains and watering, because their root system needs a lot of oxygen, especially at an early stage. In dense soil, the root crop shrinks. The root crop of carrots is very sensitive to the uniformity of the soil structure. Even if the central stem stumbles upon a pebble during growth, the root crop will twist or bifurcate. If the soil layers are heterogeneous in structure, the root crop has constrictions.
Carrots do not like acidic soils, a large amount of mineral fertilizers. Her root crop becomes woody and tasteless. Fresh organic matter cannot be added under carrots, and even more so fresh or poorly rotted manure - the root crop will rot directly in the soil or during storage. In addition, with excessive doses of nitrogen in any form, the root crop of carrots branches. It is impossible to apply fertilizers containing chlorine (potassium chloride or potassium salt) under carrots - it will also branch or bend the root crop. It is impossible to make lime under carrots in the year of planting - carrots will become five-tailed or seven-tailed. Even if you add ash directly when sowing seeds, some of the root crops will become multi-tailed. When deoxidizing the soil for carrots, it is better to use dolomite flour or chalk, which should be made in the fall.
Sowing, fertilizing, watering
Carrot is a cold-resistant plant, at all stages of development it easily tolerates frosts down to minus 5-6 degrees, so it is better to sow it as early as possible. For the North West optimal time sowing - end of April. In regions with a continental climate, it can be sown before winter. Where there are often thaws in winter, it is better to sow it in March, having prepared the beds for sowing in the fall. Carrots can be sown already at a temperature of 5 degrees Celsius and even lower. However best temperature for seedlings, it is 13 degrees, despite the fact that carrot seeds, like all cold-resistant crops, hatch at 4 degrees, and germinate at 6 degrees.
Early crops of carrots allow you to get away from the attack of the umbrella psyllid. However, late sowing can also be done (in early June for the North West), which also allows you to get away from the psyllid. But if at this time the temperature exceeds 22 degrees, then the development of carrots will become slow, and the root crop will form rough. It is better to sow carrots on ridges 15-20 cm high. Since autumn, the soil should not only be dug up to a depth of at least 20 cm (and even better at 30-40), picking out pebbles from it, but even sifted. It is even better to make a bed for carrots from a mixture of peat (or sawdust, coniferous needles) and sifted sand. For each bucket of peat, take half a bucket of sand and add a liter jar of ash. On such soil, carrots will grow well for 3-4 years in a row. Firstly, there are no weed seeds in it, and secondly, it is saturated with air. All that is required is an annual additional application of chlorine-free potassium for spring pre-sowing soil dressing (half a glass per linear meter).
It is possible to sow carrots in Y-shaped furrows 20 cm deep, made directly in the soil (no beds). Furrows are made at a distance of 20 cm from each other and filled with the same mixture of peat and sand, as indicated above. In these furrows, grooves are made only 1 cm deep and carrot seeds are sown in them. Then the soil is leveled. When sowing carrots before winter or in March, the seeds are buried in the soil a little deeper, 2 cm. Carrots are sown in moist soil. I sow carrot seeds along with the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer: for 1 teaspoon of seeds I take 1 teaspoon of fertilizer and half a glass of fine sand (or dust from sleeping coffee or tea bags). I stir and sow as if I were salting a prepared groove with this mixture. The soil is leveled and compacted with a board. With such sowing, the carrots do not thicken and there is no need to do any top dressing all summer, except for a single watering with weed infusion for the first time after germination. Seedlings appear after 7-20 days. Before the emergence of seedlings, the bed cannot be watered, and so that the hatched seeds do not dry out in the top layer of soil in dry or windy weather, the beds should be covered with a film after sowing, which must be removed as soon as the shoots appear.
The essential oils contained in its seeds slow down the emergence of carrot seedlings. There is a recommendation to accelerate the germination of carrots - pre-soaking the seeds before sowing in running water per day to wash essential oils. This technique improves the rather poor germination of carrots and accelerates the emergence of seedlings, but there is another side to this technique. Firstly, weak plants also appear, while essential oils will not allow them to appear. Secondly, potassium is washed out of the seeds, which ultimately has a bad effect on the quality of root crops. It is much better to use another technique: for half an hour, warm the carrot seeds in a cloth bag under running water. hot water. At an early stage, carrots are easily drowned out by weeds, they do not tolerate deep loosening and weeding, since their thin, tender sucking roots are easily damaged, and the future root crop is bent.
If you have not previously freed the beds from weeds, then they will sprout before the carrots, and it will be difficult to weed, since the rows of carrots are not yet visible. In order to mark the rows of carrots, when sowing, you should add a few seeds of another crop to its seeds, which quickly enter, for example, lettuce or radish. Their seedlings will mark the furrows of the carrots, and weeds can be removed between the rows without fear of damaging the carrots. It is better not to pull out weeds, but to cut them at the level of the soil. Loosen the aisles very carefully, not approaching too close to the rows of carrots.
If carrot shoots are immediately covered with lutrasil or other non-woven material and the beds are watered directly over lutrasil, then no pests of your carrots are terrible. They remove the shelter just before harvesting, when the second flight of the carrot fly ends. A small amount of carrots can be grown very early by sowing them near the film (or near the glass) in the greenhouse in one row. It will not interfere with greenhouse plants, since they are planted 20-25 cm from the film or glass. The light of carrots is quite enough even under the canopy of greenhouse plants.
Carrots need watering only in the first stage of growth, until the second thinning. In the future, it should not be watered even in dry weather. The fact is that in carrots, the central root can go into the soil to a great depth, up to 2 m. With an excess of moisture, it forms a hairy root crop, or the root crop begins to crack in it. Such carrots are not stored, they must immediately be processed for winter harvesting. Cracking of the root crop can also be caused by the introduction of excess doses of nitrogen into the soil. Often, gardeners heartily water carrots with infusion of weeds, and then they are amazed, why did the root crops crack?
Carrots should be harvested after the first frost, because they must go through the stage of natural cooling. If you are forced to harvest carrots before frost, then be sure to leave it for a day in the refrigerator, otherwise the aerial part will continue to grow and the root crop will wither. Is it possible to leave carrots to winter right in the garden? If the winters in your area are not frosty, then you can. But if in winter there are severe frosts or frequent thaws, then carrots in the garden will not overwinter.
Video: How to grow productive carrots in high beds
Carrot along with potatoes and onions, it is one of the main vegetables, so all gardeners find a place for it in their own area. Proper cultivation carrots, is the key to a rich harvest.
Even in small areas, you can get a high-quality and productive crop. And if you combine the implementation of the basic rules of agricultural technology with advice experienced gardeners, it is possible to achieve great results in growing carrots, while also saving your labor costs and precious time that can be spent on vacation.
Harvest carrots on high warm beds
How to grow carrots, which will allow on a small area: 2.4 m 2, to get a crop of carrots, which will last until the next season.
The decisive factor in this method is the presence of a warm high bed, which guarantees optimal conditions for the growth of carrots. Namely, it is a deep, loose, fertile layer.
Without such a bed, it is almost impossible to achieve such a layer on our loamy soils.
The second main condition for obtaining good harvest is the choice of seeds and their proper fit. Seeds are best purchased from trusted manufacturers and better coated (that is, coated with a nutrient shell). Such seeds allow us exactly according to the scheme, maintaining the required distances, which in turn makes it possible for the most unpleasant technological method - this is the thinning of the sprouted carrots.
Any thinning is traumatizing neighboring plants and attracting pests to the garden, especially carrot flies. Yes, and weeding itself is quite a tedious and time-consuming task.
So, we decided on the seeds, we proceed to sowing. It is produced as follows: on the prepared leveled bed we pour a 5 cm layer of old sifted sawdust, make grooves in them along the bed with a depth to the ground and a distance between them of 20 cm, and from the edge of the bed 10 cm.
Next, we spill these grooves with warm water; for disinfection, potassium permanganate can be added to the water until it turns pink. Then, without being lazy and painstakingly lay out in the grooves, one seed at a time after 3-4 cm. After laying out, sprinkle them with sawdust and pour warm water again, but from a watering can with a sprayer.
All the main labor-intensive work has been completed, we are waiting for shoots, which usually appear in 5-10 days, depending on the temperature. During this time, sawdust does not allow weeds to germinate, so carrot shoots are easily visible. But 5-6 days after germination, you still have to weed the bed, although this is said loudly, or rather, it will be said to remove rarely breaking weeds.
During the summer, it is enough to weed the bed in the same way twice, until the tops of the carrot itself close. Sawdust also made it possible to reduce the amount of irrigation per unit area and prevent rain from clogging and washing away the soil. As you understand, loosening with this approach is completely excluded.
Of course, there can be no talk of any top dressings, for example, such as nitrophoska and even Agricola Vegeta and Effekton-O, related to organic fertilizers. After all, the bed itself implies the presence required quantities nutrients for the entire period of carrot growth.
High yield of carrots without much hassle
I want to give "carrot" advice. After all, carrots are not always possible to grow good. This is a troublesome business, especially weeding, thinning, loosening.
All of us, residents of the middle lane, sow carrots in the first half of May. And here's what I advise: two weeks before sowing, wrap carrot seeds in a shabby rag, soak and dig a shovel on a spade bayonet somewhere in the garden. Trample the ground and put a peg with a label. As the earth ripens, the seeds will become heavier, swell and even peck a little.
And when the time comes for sowing, we do this: carefully, slowly, we dig up the garden bed, scatter it over the entire surface ( furnace ash, about 1 cup per 1 m 2 ) . Thoroughly harrow with a rake to break up clods of earth. Then we make markings along the beds, pulling the string. We make the distance between the rows 40 cm. We tread a groove along the lace (we go foot to foot) to get a dense bottom the width of the foot. Thoroughly moisten the soil in the groove, watering from a watering can.
When the water is absorbed, we begin to lay out the seeds, removing them from the hole. Swollen, they will be clearly visible on a smooth bottom. The distance between the seeds is 5-6 cm, so as not to thin out later. Then we rake the earth from the sides of the groove and fill in the seeds, lightly slam the row, do not water it so that a crust does not form, which interferes with the access of air to the crops. Shoots will appear in a week. Now you need to water the plants and loosen the aisles to destroy the weeds. Carrots will grow great!
Plant your favorite varieties in a labor-saving way. Excellent grade "Nanskaya" or its hybrids. The result is always good. Use the same "carrot method" for sowing parsley, beets, black onions, flower annuals. The main thing is not to forget to dig in the seeds in time, about 12-14 days before sowing, then you won’t have to mess with the seedlings and things will decrease in the spring.
Good neighbors. Carrots and onions in the same garden
Experienced summer residents claim that onions and carrots on the same bed get along great, since their roots are located at different levels - deep in carrots, and superficial in onions, so they do not interfere with each other. But it is necessary that the carrot greens do not shade the onion. There are no problems with growing, and the harvest and taste of vegetables will certainly please you. If you want to test this statement, select a garden bed and try growing onions and carrots on it.
For planting, the bed must be made 1.2 meters wide and in the spring it should be filled with fertilizer. For these purposes, you can use (chicken manure (3-4 buckets) or compost (7-8 buckets)) . It is good to add 250 g of double superphosphate to organic matter.
You need to plant onions and carrots at the same time. Planting material must first be prepared.
To do this, stick carrot seeds with starch paste on thin paper cut into the width of the beds (1.2 m). Or use ready-made seed tapes purchased in specialized stores. You can decompose manually coated seeds.
The distance between the seeds should be about 2-3 cm.
Onions before planting should be soaked for 2-3 hours in a solution of humate.
In the beds where carrots will grow, do not add anything. And in the places where the onion is planted, sprinkle the groove with ash mixed with mineral fertilizer in the proportion of 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per liter jar of ash.
When planting, a strip of paper with seeds must be carefully laid across the width of the beds to a depth of about 2 cm and sprinkled with earth. Plant an onion in the next row. It is important not to press the onions into the soil, but carefully place them on it. The distance between rows should be from 10 to 15 cm. Close the bed with plantings for 15 days with covering material.
Onions will grow first, and should be fed. Onion feeding should be done when its feather grows to 8-10 cm. To do this, prepare a solution: (for 10 liters of water, take 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ash, urea, extracts of double superphosphate and kerosene) . Top dressing is good to repeat after 10-12 days.
Following the onions, carrots begin to grow intensively: root crops increase, acquiring a good taste. In mid-August, the onion crop can be harvested. And then expect a rich harvest of delicious carrots.
We are preparing a bed for carrots. Fertilization
When growing carrots for a rich harvest great importance has the preparation of the beds.
When growing carrots, one must remember that this crop is demanding on the composition of the soil. Good yields of carrots can be obtained on light and medium loamy soils, or on cultivated peat lands with pH = 7.0 (neutral), weed-free, well-drained.
Fresh manure is not applied to the soil under carrots.
Carrots grow well on lands where their predecessors grew last year - cabbage, green and legumes, potatoes, tomatoes.
Under carrots, it is better to dig a bed from autumn to the depth of a bayonet shovel and leave it until spring. In this case, lumps do not need to be broken. So it will freeze better and in the spring there will be no such lumps, the frozen moisture will break them into small particles.
If you have acidic soil, then before digging add to each square. m beds, one glass of dolomite flour, fluff lime or chalk.
A bed for planting carrots prepare 2-3 days before sowing.
Depending on the composition and fertility of the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring.
For every sq. m beds at peat soils add (5 kg each of coarse-grained river sand, manure humus 3-5 kg, one bucket of soddy soil (clay or loamy)).
Mineral fertilizers are also added: (one teaspoon of sodium nitrate or urea (carbomide), one tablespoon of powdered superphosphate and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate).
Then, after adding all these components, the bed is dug up for
depth 20-25 cm (because the main varieties of carrots have long roots). The bed is well developed, the surface is leveled and compacted. After that, the ridge is watered with such a solution: (dilute one teaspoonful in a bucket of warm water (at the level) blue vitriol and one glass of mushy mullein) , stir well and water at the rate of two liters per square meter. m beds. Then, in order to avoid evaporation of moisture and to preserve heat, the bed is covered with plastic wrap.
On clay and podzolic soils (for every sq. m beds add 1-2 buckets of peat and coarse sand, one bucket of humus, half a bucket (3-5 kg) of small (treated) sawdust(better not fresh, rotten)).
Mineral fertilizers for carrots: (add crushed superphosphate - one tablespoon and nitrophoska - two tablespoons) . In the spring it is necessary to carry out liming with chalk or dolomite flour, if you did not do it in the fall (which is preferable): two or three tablespoons for each square. m.
For light loamy soils (they consist of clay and sand) - produce fertilizer in the same way as clay soils, but do not add sand.
On sandy soils add two buckets of peat, sod land and one bucket of treated sawdust and humus. From mineral fertilizers, the same ones are applied as for clay soils. If granular fertilizers are used, then they do not need to be ground into powder.
On chernozem fertile soils add half a bucket of small old or fresh processed sawdust and a bucket of sand.
Mineral fertilizers: (add two tablespoons of superphosphate, crushed into powder To).
Manure humus can be replaced with compost, but it should not contain weed seeds.
3-4 days before adding sawdust to the soil, they must be processed. This is done in this way: 5 buckets of fresh sawdust are poured onto a piece of film laid out on the ground. Five tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or urea) are diluted in a bucket of hot water, poured into a watering can and sawdust is slowly shed with this solution. Sawdust will be ready for use in the garden the faster, the higher the temperature of the solution (40-50 ° C).
Fresh sawdust, untreated in this way, can only be applied to the beds in the fall. If fresh sawdust is introduced in the spring, then the leaves of carrot seedlings will have a pale color due to a lack of nitrogen (sawdust takes nitrogen from the soil during decay).
When planting carrots on newly developed lands (virgin lands), it is necessary to carefully select all rhizomes, especially wheatgrass, as well as wireworm larvae and May beetle, when digging.
Carrots, like all vegetables, are a light-loving culture, so in the shade, root crops grow very short (up to 3-5 cm), and the yield is reduced by two to three times. Excess moisture in the soil contributes to diseases of the roots of carrots, therefore, in places where groundwater is close, beds should be made at least 30-35 cm high.
On poorly cultivated and dense soils, root crops grow in an ugly shape, branch out, and the quality of root crops and yield decrease.
Planting dates for carrots
Sowing dates are of decisive importance for the carrot harvest.
Since carrot seeds germinate slowly, they require good soil moisture and should be sown as early as possible while there is enough spring moisture in the ground. If you are late with sowing, then the seeds will fall into dry soil and as a result, rare, weak seedlings will germinate, and often the seeds will not germinate at all and you have to finish the bed.
For sowing seeds of carrots, the most optimal terms are: in the central and middle lane: early varieties - from 20 to 25 April; mid-season - from April 25 to May 5.
IN southern regions sowing is carried out in two terms: for obtaining products in the summer, spring - March 10-20, and for obtaining seed plants (uterine roots) and winter consumption, summer sowing - June 10-15.
You can sow carrots before winter, on frozen soil, in November - December. Sowing is done with dry seeds so that they cannot germinate until spring, otherwise the seedlings will freeze. Such carrots, podzimnogo sowing, grows much earlier, but it is used mainly in summer period, because unsuitable for storage.
So prepared soil for growing carrots, You will get a rich harvest.
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October 29th, 2014 at 10:08 am
Hello Valery! Is it possible to mulch immediately with sawdust from horses soaked in urine, or do they need to age?
October 29th, 2014 at 10:40 am
Svetlana, it is better to add such sawdust to the compost.
November 2nd, 2014 at 9:33 am
Valerie, hello. This summer I have accumulated 3 buckets of sawdust from an electric planer. They are larger than cut ones. Do you think they can be used for planting carrots? And how best to age them over the winter? There is manure, compost, what is better to mix with?
November 2nd, 2014 at 9:43 am
Alexey, mix with manure and hold for a year, you will have good compost, but they are not suitable for mulching.
November 24th, 2014 at 6:43 pm
Hello Valery. I came across your site and I really like it. I also have a 4 acre garden and I would like to use your advice, but I can’t subscribe to your site, help me. Yours faithfully, Irina.
November 25th, 2014 at 9:39 am
Irina, you can register on the forum, and ask questions in the comments.
January 1st, 2015 at 1:11 pm
Valery, I see you have beautiful, clean carrots. I have it the second year eaten by a carrot fly. The next year I made boxes 75 cm. I read that a fly does not fly above 50 cm. Will it help?
January 2nd, 2015 at 2:30 pm
Everything can be, but I don’t grow carrots in the same garden for two years, I always do a crop rotation, then mulching with sawdust can help.
January 7th, 2015 at 10:06 pm
Yes, Valery, everything is cool. The problem is that our oligarchs, too, may not shun GMOs. I believe that every farmer should collect his own collection of seeds. Do you have experience growing and harvesting carrot seeds? Sincerely, Alexander
January 9th, 2015 at 10:53 am
This year I grew a little, the main thing is that there would be no other varieties in the neighborhood.
February 11th, 2015 at 1:15 am
Tell me, Valery, I heard that you can not plant carrots, beets, radishes and other root crops in a warm bed, as they will accumulate a lot of nitrates, only next year. And I really want to make warm beds. What do you think of it?
February 11th, 2015 at 8:17 am
Galina, do not put fresh manure in the bed and there will be no nitrates.
February 15th, 2015 at 10:32 pm
Hello Valery. Can you please tell me from what tree species can sawdust be used?
February 17th, 2015 at 9:07 am
From any kind of wood.
February 18th, 2015 at 6:06 pm
Hello Valery. Through what (or how) to sow sawdust for beds?
February 19th, 2015 at 8:17 am
I sow only for mulching small crops, like carrots, through any mesh, the stores are full of both metal and plastic ones for fences.
February 19th, 2015 at 3:52 pm
Hello Valery. I am a novice gardener, tell me, if you sow carrots on sawdust (groove), then the weeds will not crawl through, but how does it crawl through itself-carrots?
February 20th, 2015 at 8:25 am
I do not sow on sawdust, but under them, the layer where I sow the seeds turns out to be small, but more in the aisles.
March 18th, 2015 at 8:22 pm
Valery, we change sawdust from the chicken coop once a month, there are sawdust from the chicken coop 3-year-old, which is better. They advise sticking carrots on toilet paper, and mixing others with sand and fertilizer.
March 18th, 2015 at 8:34 pm
A warm bed for carrots is 600mm, I basically have 500 row spacing of 650mm, I understood that in order to fit 3 rows of carrots, 600 are needed.
March 19th, 2015 at 11:46 am
Sawdust can be used for any mulching, but if they are with chicken manure, then old ones are better for carrots. Sticking seeds or mixing with sand are methods that help to sow the seeds at the right distance, this saves the number of seeds and removes or makes it easier to thin out seedlings.
March 27th, 2015 at 12:25 pm
Hello! Tell me how you do with spruce branches, clean up, don’t clean up, when to clean up?
March 27th, 2015 at 4:07 pm
I use it as a protection against cats and remove it as soon as the carrots begin to sprout.
April 15th, 2015 at 2:09 pm
Hello Valery. I read your article about sawdust mulching. I went to the sawmill and collected several bags of old sawdust mixed with last year's foliage, only there is one doubt - all sawdust in consistency already resembles dust that smells of earth and I saw them in places white coating mold-like. Question: I won’t bring any thread of infection to my carrot bed in a place with sawdust? Thank you.
April 15th, 2015 at 5:18 pm
You won’t do it, mold is mushrooms that destroy wood, it won’t harm carrots, I have all the old sawdust with mushrooms, sometimes they even grow in beds.
April 17th, 2015 at 10:59 pm
Valery, you say the distance between seeds is on average 2 cm, is this taking into account subsequent thinning, or are granular seeds not thinned out? then 2 cm is not cramped for them with such a crop? I also saw such a gear device, which was already mentioned above, there it is designed for 4 or even 5 cm from each other.
April 20th, 2015 at 10:57 am
Two or three cm is just right, because it is impossible to predict 100% germination, and relatives can be ordered.
April 21st, 2015 at 12:09 am
Valery, hello. Tell me, please, for a beginner, and when you plant carrots, if not difficult, and when you need to sow beets and onions, we are not far from you (Yaroslavl) and at least somehow navigate, we learn gardening on your site. There are already high beds, seedlings are languishing, I really liked the article about potatoes, although I didn’t plan to plant them, but if everything is so easy and simple, only the planting dates for all crops for our region are not clear. It seems that carrots are planted first, then beets are planted, and when are onions? Sorry for such questions, there are a lot of things on the Internet, but with certain disagreements, and you are so close, share a secret. I will be very grateful.
April 21st, 2015 at 12:54 pm
Lina, planting dates can be different even within the same village, to advise, it’s like poking into the sky, I would start to navigate my neighbors, especially old-timers, they know exactly when you need to plant and sow.
April 21st, 2015 at 3:20 pm
Unfortunately, all our neighbors so far only go to the dacha for the purpose of rest, still a young "village", then I will be guided by the temperature of the soil, in some of your videos I heard this, I will review it again. Thank you.
April 23rd, 2015 at 10:20 am
Check the temperature of the soil at a depth of 10 cm, it should be cool, but not cold, it is easy to feel it, try now to take a lump of earth from this depth and you will then understand when it starts to warm up.
April 24th, 2015 at 12:16 pm
May 6th, 2015 at 4:22 pm
please tell me, I made a warm bed in the spring, although I don’t know how it differs from the high one, what can be planted in it in the first year, otherwise some write that only zucchini and pumpkin are possible. soil, in a greenhouse I have already planted tomatoes and peppers on a warm bed. Yes, and the 2nd question, but sawdust can be laid on the bottom of warm beds or not
May 9th, 2015 at 9:59 am
Sawdust to the bottom is not worth it, but you can plant everything and it is warm only for a year, and then high, but it still warms up earlier and the yield is higher than on ordinary ones.
May 25th, 2015 at 11:32 am
Valery, can carrots be mulched with hay? Will it prevent the carrots from rising?
May 25th, 2015 at 1:25 pm
You should not mulch carrots with hay, you can’t suppress weeds under a thin layer, but it will be more difficult to weed them.
September 24th, 2015 at 10:06 am
Hello Valery. This year we have grown a good crop of carrots according to your recommendations, Thanks a lot To you! I would like to know how you determine the term for harvesting carrots, how you prepare them for storage (what is better to do with the tops - cut or cut off), how do you store them (in sand or ...)? And yet, many of our carrots cracked, can you tell me what is causing this? Thank you
September 24th, 2015 at 1:25 pm
The timing of harvesting depends on the variety of carrots, usually harvesting is carried out with partial yellowing of the leaves, but it is necessary to check that it does not overgrow, signs of this are the formation of roots throughout the fruit, it can crack due to an excess of nitrogen, uneven watering, overripe. The tops can be both cut off and cut with secateurs, after which you need to let the carrots dry. I store in dry moss, I used to store in dry sand, but it is heavy and difficult to carry and get it out of the underground.
September 25th, 2015 at 9:46 am
Good afternoon
This year I sowed your carrot seeds: the germination is ideal - I harvested a good harvest.
Thank you very much!
September 25th, 2015 at 10:10 am
Valery, but I didn’t find carrot seeds in the catalogs, will you not have them?
September 25th, 2015 at 6:37 pm
Most likely they will be later, the year was cold, they ripen for a long time.
October 22nd, 2015 at 4:42 pm
Valery good afternoon. Thank you for such detailed information. I have been a gardener for only two years. Please tell me if it is necessary to change the landing places for the next year. If a carrot grew, can it be planted in the same garden? Everywhere they write about green manure, but we remove carrots and beets late and siderats do not have time to gain strength?
October 24th, 2015 at 9:47 am
It is necessary to change the place, I sow green manure after crops that I harvest early, onions, garlic, it is best to sow carrots on these beds, and I put compost on a carrot bed in the fall, and plant on it in the spring either onions, garlic or tomatoes.
October 25th, 2015 at 10:35 pm
Thank you very much for the answer. I will do so next year.
November 21st, 2015 at 8:48 pm
Hello. I bought carrot seeds from you last year. Are they good for planting next year? Or do you have to buy new ones every year?
November 23rd, 2015 at 11:23 am
Suitable, only every year the germination will decrease a little, but this is noticeable after three to four years.
January 2nd, 2016 at 10:50 am
Hello Valery, I just want to say a huge THANK YOU for your seeds and detailed recommendations for both beginner gardeners and experienced gardeners! Today in Odnoklassniki in one of the groups I saw a recommendation for growing carrots with your photo at the beginning of the article, I would like to know if you are really the author? I quote:
“I sow carrots in the following way.
Carrot love deep
cultivated fertile soil. I don't thin out, almost. I proceed as follows:
10-12 days before sowing, we tie the carrot seeds in a rag (freer).
We dig into the moist earth on the bayonet of a shovel (important!). During this period of
seeds, essential oils are weathered, which prevent the seeds from germinating. By
after the specified period, we dig out the nodules with seeds from the ground. The seeds will
already swollen, large, almost germinated. Pour them into a bowl and powder with the usual
starch. The seeds stop sticking to the fingers and will later be clearly visible on a dark
wet ground. If the soil is dry, water the furrow before sowing. When the water is gone
carefully place the seeds in the grooves
with the desired interval and sprinkle with dry (!) Earth. Carrots germinate 3-5 days after sowing!
Moreover, without watering, since watering from above will create a crust from the ground over the seeds, and
it will be very difficult for them to break through. All! This is where the worries ended. up to the very
seedlings. You can’t water it, otherwise the carrot will grow short and tasteless. ”
January 3rd, 2016 at 2:51 pm
I didn’t write this and I always thin out carrots, but I heard about digging into the ground before sowing.
January 13th, 2016 at 10:58 am
Valery, I purchased Krepysh carrot seeds from you. How long does it take from planting to harvest. I just want to guess so I can dig it up in October for further winter storage.
January 13th, 2016 at 1:07 pm
Approximately 130-140 days. But you should not do late sowing in order to remove it later, early sowings allow you to partially get away from the carrot fly and germination is better than in late sowings.
January 13th, 2016 at 4:44 pm
Thank you very much for your advice. In the video, you talk about coated seeds, but do simple ones need to be processed before sowing, such as in ACC or just hold in warm water? Some write that they soak for an hour, and one madam, in general, keeps it in warm water for 3 days, then treats it with starch and sows.
January 15th, 2016 at 10:11 am
There are many ways to process, I recently switched to ACC.
January 31st, 2016 at 9:30 pm
Valery, every year I change places of carrots and onion. I plant onions before winter Stuttgart, Sturon, Radar. I have to hurry with the preparation of the beds after the carrots. I don’t dig up the ground, I just level it with a rake after harvesting and sow mustard. And then, in the fall, I plant onions. I want to say that I did not have big failures. From a 6-meter bed (planting in 3 rows), I have 20-25 kg of onions. Failure - 14 kg was 1 year old when part of the bow went into the arrow. Maybe I need to somehow process the bed differently? Please tell me. For me, both the earth and all plants are living things. And all the time it seems to me that I don’t give something to the garden where carrots grew. Feelings of guilt do not leave ... Thanks in advance
February 1st, 2016 at 9:39 am
Both carrots and onions take a lot of nutrients from the soil, green manure alone may not be enough, once every two years you can add compost to the beds.
February 4th, 2016 at 11:38 pm
Valery, good time of day.
Thank you so much, I received your seeds of tomatoes, peppers and Krepysh today. I am a beginner gardener, so...
Can you please tell me if your seeds need to be treated before sowing? Thanks in advance.
February 5th, 2016 at 8:50 am
February 16th, 2016 at 11:18 pm
Hello Valery, please tell me how to feed carrots, onions, beets, garlic from organic matter
February 19th, 2016 at 4:31 pm
Herbal and ash infusion.
February 22nd, 2016 at 4:53 pm
Valery, is it possible to use fallen needles instead of sawdust for mulching? Thank you.
February 23rd, 2016 at 8:57 am
March 9th, 2016 at 11:00 am
Valery, thank you for your work and for sharing information. Please tell me the direction in which you need to install high beds for growing plants? Are there any particularities or is it all in the same direction?
March 9th, 2016 at 2:11 pm
If the plot is with a slope, then the beds are installed with a ladder across the slope, if not, then from south to north.
March 15th, 2016 at 11:02 am
Valery, have you tried using mushroom blocks as mulch or fertilizer? We sell a lot of them and inexpensively, but I have not found reviews on the Internet anywhere.
March 16th, 2016 at 1:59 pm
As a fertilizer, they are not very nutritious, because, as I understand it, these are the blocks left after growing mushrooms, but as a mulch they are suitable and populate them with Gliocladin, this is such a fungus, you will also protect yourself from many diseases
March 17th, 2016 at 7:57 pm
Valery, thank you very much for your advice and for helping ordinary people
October 5th, 2017 at 8:39 pm
Hello Valery! Please tell me, if I removed the onion from the garden and blew the phacelia, then after it I can plant the onion again, will the onion be shielded after the sidirat or the onion after the onion?
October 6th, 2017 at 8:13 am
It’s better to change the garden anyway, phacelia will help another crop, it does not guarantee the avoidance of pests and diseases.
October 8th, 2017 at 5:38 pm
Thanks Valery! And if, before planting, shed a bed with a solution of copper sulfate, and in the spring after the snow melts again, will this not help get rid of pests? And tell me, please, what is the best way to cover the beds with garlic and onions for the winter with freshly cut grass or peat, or hay? This is what I have at the moment. Or maybe you have best advice?
October 13th, 2017 at 8:21 am
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19.03.2015 | 8758
When growing carrots, it is important to form a bed that is suitable specifically for this crop.
Good garden is already a success. On the right bed, plants are easier to care for: water, weed, fertilize and harvest. A well-chosen bed will contribute to the development of the plant.
flat bed
Usually carrots are grown on a flat bed. But such plantings are inconvenient to water and feed. In addition, it can be problematic to pull a ripe carrot out of such a bed - only tops remain in the hands, and the root crop continues to cling tightly to the ground.
Stitch fit
Another way to grow planting with one line along the crest of the row. I think that this method is better than the usual flat bed. Carrots planted on ridges are more convenient to thin out, you can freely walk along the grooves, which greatly facilitates care. But such beds also have a lot of disadvantages. While the crops are very young, there are problems with watering, the water simply rolls off the rounded ridge. Watering from the bottom along the groove is only suitable for mature plants. In addition, young carrots are inconvenient to feed and loosen.
high bed
After trying different cultivation techniques, I settled on a two-line planting on high garden. To do this, I cut rows with a wide flat comb. Along the ridge I have two lines of crops.
Step by step, the whole work looks like this:
- With a marker or pegs with a rope, I mark out future beds on the site. It should be borne in mind that the width of the ridge will be 30-35 cm. I make the grooves between the rows convenient for walking and watering the width, usually also 30-35 cm.
- I dig rows with a shovel. It is important that the earth at this moment is slightly damp. Dry soil forms hard lumps, unacceptable when growing carrots. If lumps still form, be sure to break them with a shovel.
- I level the soil well with a rake in order to finally deal with lumps. At the same time, I form ridges about 20 cm high with a flat top 30-35 cm wide. I level the earth on the ridges especially carefully.
- With the corner of a chopper I cut two shallow parallel grooves along the crest. The distance between the grooves is 10-15 cm.
- I sow carrots in the grooves, sprinkle with earth and be sure to mulch with sand or small sawdust.
Caring for such a bed is very convenient. I water crops and young shoots with a watering can or through a sprayer put on a hose. Water is well retained on the flat surface of the beds and does not roll anywhere. When the time comes for top dressing, I make a narrow groove between the lines of seedlings and already apply fertilizer into it.
Over time, carrots grow, root crops go deep into the beds. From this moment I start watering along the aisles, because the water will flow directly to the growing root crop. For top dressing, I make grooves no longer between the lines of carrots, but on both sides at the base of the beds.
high beds well warmed by the sun. Plants in warm soil grow faster and develop better. If the weather is cold and rainy, high beds save carrots from stagnant water and, as a result, from fungal diseases and decay.
Harvesting from such beds is a pleasure. If the root crop does not want to be pulled out, there is always the opportunity to shake it slightly - a small section of the bed will collapse, but the carrot will be extracted safe and sound.
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Anyone can grow long and even root crops on their site. The main thing in this matter is not to be lazy and do all the necessary agricultural work as needed. So, let's begin.
The first thing to do is find a suitable planting site and prepare the soil. The quality of carrots directly depends on the type of land. Therefore, for this, on the one hand, unpretentious vegetable, it is necessary to choose light in mechanical composition, fertile places where there is good drainage. In addition, the place where the bed will be located should be flat, as open as possible and well lit. It should also be taken into account at this stage that the best predecessors for carrots are onions, cabbage, early potatoes, especially if they were brought under organic fertilizers. But the beds where celery (celery, cumin, dill, fennel) grew before that, and it is better not to use carrots in this case, since it is unlikely that you will be able to grow a good harvest. How to grow carrots if the plot is small and land rotation is difficult? Everything is quite simple: since the situation is almost hopeless, only strong ashing of the soil remains: 0.2-0.3 kg of wood ash is dispersed on one square meter soil and dig. The operation is performed twice a year.
As for the preparation of the soil itself, this must be done in the fall, so that the land has time to settle before sowing. Previously, the place where the vegetable will grow is cleared of stones, after which they are carefully dug up, digging for a bayonet or even two, and form a high bed. If necessary, fertilizing should be applied to poor soils - humus; in heavy soils - peat, sawdust and river sand; acidic lands are alkalized with chalk (lime). But in any case, fresh manure is not recommended to be applied, otherwise the root crops may grow ugly. Growing carrots in soils with a high water table without a significant rise in the height of the ridge will result in an ugly crop. 
In the spring, when the bed warms up, 7-10 days before planting, it is necessary to loosen the ground well and disinfect it with a solution of copper sulfate, which is prepared at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water. Then the bed is watered with warm water, about 30 - 40 ° C, after which the landing site is covered with a film, preferably dark. The last action will allow the earth to warm up and retain moisture. Of course, the last steps are not necessary if the spring turned out to be hot, and in winter there were considerable snowdrifts. You can also ignore the film if the harvest is supposed to be late. And finally, you can refuse to warm up if you are sure of the quality of the seeds, and also that there will definitely not be a cold temperature or, even more so, frosts.
Sowing an orange root crop depends solely on how much moisture is contained in the ground, as well as on which climatic conditions it will be grown: if we are talking about the central zone of Russia or a climate similar to it, then the sowing date will be April 20-25. A little earlier (7-14 days) carrots are planted if the snow has already melted more than 21 days ago and relatively warm weather has set in without night frosts. A little later, carrots should be planted if the weather has not settled down, and at night negative values \u200b\u200bof the thermometer are observed. But do not delay the planting time - it would be optimal to land before the fifth of May, provided there is a complete absence of snow and the frequent absence of frosts. In the southern regions, carrots are planted in two stages - March 10-20 (for summer consumption) and June 10-15 (seed planting and for winter consumption).
Seeds should be treated with warm water (rinse two or three times), and then covered in a damp cloth for swelling and passage of moisture to the seed through the crust containing a large amount of hydrophobic essential oils. If this is not done, then there is a high probability of a delay in seedlings for a period of 2-3 weeks, which worsens the ripening of the root crop. Also, to accelerate seedlings, you can carry out the following procedures: 
- Bubbling. Carrot seeds are placed in a vessel with water, the temperature of which is above room temperature (optimally - 25g. C). Water is aerated by an air pump during the day, after which the planting material is removed and put into the refrigerator on the middle shelf, where it is stored for about 3-5 days. 12 hours before sowing, they are removed from the refrigerator and dried to flowability, after which they are planted in beds. Germination in this case will take 5-7 days.
- Burrowing into the soil. Dry planting material is placed in a linen bag and buried in a bed at the depth of a spade bayonet. Neither watering nor fertilizer is produced. After about 1.5-2 weeks, the bag is removed, its contents are dried on a dry cloth or parchment and planted in a garden bed. Germination will take approximately 4-5 days.
- nutrient solution. The seed is laid out on a fabric base, covered with a cloth on top, poured with a nutrient solution for 24 hours. The nutrient medium can be a mixture boric acid, nitrophoska and water (ratio 1/3 tsp, 1/2 tsp and 1 liter of water, respectively); or potassium permanganate, dissolved in a liter of water until red, 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer. After soaking, the seed is washed in warm water and put in the refrigerator for half a week. After being removed from the refrigerator, they are dried to flowability and planted in the ground.
Carrots are planted along the grooves made in the garden. Optimally done as follows: furrow width with matchbox, depth in its half, interval 200-240mm. The extreme furrows are located 120 mm from the edges of the beds. The width of the furrow should not exceed 900mm (respectively, the ridge should be 1.1m). Before planting, the bed is shed with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds are scattered with a snake in a furrow with a step of 10-15 mm, after which mulching is carried out with soil, peat or peat-sand mixture. The planted ridge is covered with a film with a ventilation gap of 120-150 mm. Shelter will not only improve the preservation of heat and moisture, but also prevent the appearance of a carrot fly - a pest that can destroy the crop. 
Landing Care
Growing a good crop requires mandatory care, but caring for a planted root crop is quite simple: it is enough to thin out the bed in time, loosen the soil as necessary, weed, feed and, of course, water.
Step 1 Thinning is carried out as the tops grow.
It is necessary to thin out carrots at the first shoots; the smallest (and therefore the least viable) shoots are pulled out with an interval of 20-25 mm between root crops. The second thinning is carried out in June-July with an interval of 75-100 mm. The second thinning allows the extracted roots to be used for food or livestock feed. It may be necessary to defuse the carrots for the third time if the fruits obviously interfere with each other.
Step 2 It is important not to forget to feed the carrots
In the period from the appearance of the fifth-sixth sheets + 2-3 days are made mineral fertilizers. After feeding, the first hilling can be done, which is repeated after the first thinning, after the second thinning and then every 2-4 weeks. Hilling helps to cover the fruit in the ground, avoid sunburn and greenish shoulders. Also, when growing, you can adhere to the three-phase method: 5,7,10 leaves. But it should be borne in mind that in any case, the fruits should be underground at a depth of about 50mm. 
Step 3 Watering carrots
Watering carrots should be intense enough to prevent drying of the soil, but not excessive to prevent its hypothermia. The best thing is uniform watering, because with a lack of water, the roots become coarse and “wooden, with an excess - small and tasteless. It is best to adhere to the following watering tactics:
Harvest and storage
Harvesting takes place in late September - early October. The root crop is pulled out of the ground by the tops, after which it is placed on the ground nearby to quickly remove excess moisture from its surface. If loosening and weeding during the growing period were not done regularly and the soil hardened, it is possible to dig in with a garden bracket. But this must be done in such a way as not to damage the fetus.
If the harvest is carried out in rainy weather, then the harvested carrots are laid out in a dry room. The total drying time is about 1-1.5 hours (i.e. until the surface is visible dry). 
After drying, it is necessary to trim the tops. It is most convenient to do this with a knife or garden pruner if the tops are powerful and thick. The greens are cut off at the root, without damaging the root crop. At the same time, the crop is sorted: all damaged, rotten, crooked fruits are discarded. Smooth, undamaged carrots are placed in a ventilated box and stored in a cool, dark place.
