Do-it-yourself belt sander for wood. How to make a universal wood sander. DIY wood grinder

During the repair of the chassis and steering, it almost always becomes necessary to remove the ball joints or tie rod ends.

Feature of these structural elements is that the pin of the support or tip has a conical shape, with which it enters the seat.

During operation, the landing density increases so much that the surfaces of this connection practically stick to each other.

Additionally, moisture can get between the pin and the socket, causing corrosion pockets that further seal the connection.

Therefore, to remove the ball bearings or tips, special pullers are used to press out the pin with minimal effort.

Types of pullers

The auto tool market offers a wide selection of such removable mechanisms, which can be divided into two types:

Screw;
Lever.

Screw pullers are considered universal, and are suitable for working with almost any car.

The force in them is created by screwing the bolt into the puller body. The body itself is put on the eye of the support, and when tightening, the bolt rests against the support pin and presses it out of the socket.

Lever removable mechanisms are no less effective, but they are larger in size, so they may not be suitable for every car.

For example, with such a puller on the VAZ-2107, the upper ball joint can still be removed, but getting to the lower one will not work because of the very limited space.

For these purposes, a special puller is used.

The essence of the lever puller is the presence of two levers interconnected in the middle.

On the one hand, holes were made in them and a coupling bolt was installed.

For pressing out, one lever is installed between the eye and the support, while the second lever is obtained under the finger.

When the bolt is unscrewed, due to the existing connecting axis, the ends of the levers begin to converge, and the pin is pushed out.

But it is not necessary to purchase a removable mechanism; it can easily be made at home from improvised means.

Puller type - WEDGE

The simplest puller is the so-called "wedge". It does not belong to any type of removable mechanisms, but it is sufficient efficient fixture for extrusion.

To make it, you only need an angle grinder (“grinder”), you can also use a machine with an abrasive wheel.

A metal plate the size of a matchbox will act as a blank.

First, it is necessary to give the workpiece the shape of a wedge, for which we grind the metal with a “grinder” or a machine tool so that the profile of the plate looks like a triangle. Then, with the same “grinder”, we make a cut in the middle by 2/3 of the length of the workpiece from the side of the top of the triangle, that is, from the thin side of the wedge. The width of the cut should be slightly larger than the thickness of the support pin, that is, a kind of bracket should be obtained.

If desired, you can weld a metal rod to the bracket, which will further facilitate the work with the wedge.

Pressing out a finger with a wedge is very simple. It is installed in the gap between the eye and the support body. And then the wedge is simply clogged with a hammer, which leads to the finger popping out of the socket.

The disadvantage of the wedge is that in the process of pressing out the anther will be damaged. Therefore, the wedge can only be used when replacing supports or tips.

If the suspension and steering mechanism are being repaired, which does not imply the replacement of ball elements, it is better not to use a wedge.

Screw expansion mechanism

The second type of removable mechanism that can be made from improvised means is a screw expander. It is great for replacing ball joints of classic VAZ models.

A feature of the design of the suspension of these cars is that the upper and lower supports are located symmetrically to each other and the distance between them is not large.

It can be made at home only if you have a drilling machine, or you will have to contact a turning workshop. Such a puller consists of only two parts.

To make it, you need a square or hexagonal rod with turnkey edges of 17 or 19, the length of which is 7 cm. In this rod, we make a hole with a drilling machine and cut the thread for the bolt by 8. We screw in the bolt and that's it - the puller is ready.

How it works, consider the example of the VAZ-2107. To press out the upper support, it is necessary to unscrew the lock nut, but not completely, it is not necessary to remove it. Then we install a manufactured puller with a bolt screwed up to the stop between the fingers of the supports.

To squeeze out a finger, we take two keys - with one we hold the manufactured case, and with the second we unscrew the bolt until the finger breaks off the socket. After replacing the upper support, we do the same, but with the lower one.

Screw L-shaped

The third type of removable mechanism that you can make yourself is also screw, but it has shown itself to be excellent and allows you to work on any car.

For its manufacture, you need a round metal rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of 15-17 cm.

It is necessary to make an L-shaped blank from it with a shoulder length of 5 cm. That is, we take a rod, measure 5 cm on it, clamp it in a vice and bend it 90 degrees with a hammer.

On the long part of the workpiece, we cut the thread and select the nut.

It remains to make a thrust bar. You can make it in the likeness of the wedge painted above. That is, we take a plate, but 0.5 cm thick. On the one hand, we make a cut under the support finger.

If necessary, the thickness of the plate on the side of the cut can be reduced by grinding off the metal layer. The main thing is that the plate enters the gap between the support body and the eye, while it does not turn out to be too thin, otherwise it will bend during the pressing process.

On the other hand, from the cut we make a hole for the L-shaped blank. It remains only to put the plate on the long part of the rod. If the thread turned out to be insufficient in length to squeeze out a finger, then several washers can be placed under the nut.

This puller works like this: We unscrew the nut almost to the end, install the plate in the gap between the support and the eye, and turn the rod so that the short arm rests on the finger.

Then we simply tighten the nut, while the plate will act as a stop, and the rod will squeeze out the finger with a short arm.

Screw, made from a corner

Another screw puller can be made from a metal corner and a welding machine.

To do this, we take a corner with sides of 7-8 cm and the same length, and a thickness of 0.3-0.5 cm.

In one of the sides we make a cut to fix the mechanism on the eye. From sheet metal with a thickness of 0.3 cm, we cut out two triangles that will act as braces. They need to be welded on the sides to the corner. This will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

We take a 17 nut and a long bolt under it. We weld the nut itself perpendicular to the slot so that the hole faces the cut.

So that in the future the bolt can be easily positioned on the same axis with the pin, before fixing the nut by welding, a spacer must first be welded to the corner.

It remains only to screw in the bolt and the puller can be used.

These are the simplest types of removable mechanisms that you can make yourself.

In general, there are a lot of options, besides having a little imagination and basic knowledge of plumbing, you can easily come up with and make your own puller.

We offer some drawings for viewing.

Support unscrewing tool

We will consider another type that is used not to press out a finger, but to extract the support itself.

The fact is that on a number of cars (Peugeot, Citroen) spherical bearing screwed into the lever. Over time, the threaded connection turns sour, and it is quite difficult to unscrew this suspension element without a special tool.

But the necessary puller can be made independently, and not spend money on a factory one.

It is made from a thick-walled pipe 2\'\' 8-9 cm long.

From the end of this pipe, it is necessary to make 4 spikes 5 mm wide and 7 mm high, located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other.

That is, it should turn out at the end of the pipe 4 protrusions evenly distributed around the circumference. This can be done with a hacksaw and a file, or with a grinder.

I have been making knives for several years now and always use 2.5 x 60 cm and 10 x 90 cm belt grinders in my business. For a long time I wanted to get another one with a 5 cm tape, as it would make my work easier. Since such a purchase would be an invoice, I decided to make it myself.

Problems in the design of the future machine:
Three limitations had to be overcome. Firstly, there was no tape 10 cm wide at the place, it could only be ordered online. For me, this option seemed not very acceptable, since there is no greater disappointment than to find that the tape has worn out and needs to be replaced, and you have to wait a week or two for a new one to arrive. Secondly, there was a problem with rollers. I searched but couldn't find any suitable 10cm tapes. Thirdly, the motor. For a belt sander, you need quite a powerful electric motor and I didn't want to overspend on this project. The best option for me was using a used motor.

Solutions to design problems:
The first tape problem found a simple solution. Since the 20 x 90 cm belt was freely available in hardware stores at a reasonable price, I could make two 10 cm from it. This imposed restrictions on the size of my machine, but due to cost effectiveness, this option was the best. The second problem was solved using a lathe. To do this, I watched a video on the Internet, and realized that I could make the videos I needed myself. With the motor, the task was more difficult. I had several electric motors in the garage, but for some reason I had to abandon them. Finally, I settled on an old tile cutter that had a 6 amp electric motor installed. At that time, I realized that this power may not be enough. But since the work was at the experimental stage, I decided to first achieve a working version of the machine, and the motor can be replaced later. In fact, for a small amount of work, the motor is suitable. But if you are going to be doing more intensive sanding on it, I would recommend a 12 amp minimum.

Tools and materials

Tools:

Angle grinder with cutting discs.
Drill and drills.
Wrenches for 11, 12 and 19.
Lathe.
Vice.

Materials:

Electric motor (6A minimum, or 12A recommended).
Various bearings.
Nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers of various sizes.
Metal corner.
Sanding belt 20 cm.
10 cm pulleys.
Powerful spring.
Steel bar 4 x 20 cm.
Timber 2.5 x 10 x 10 cm made of wood or MDF.

Electric motor for machine

I had a choice of several motors, but the electric motor that was on the tile cutter had a more suitable casing. To some extent, working on the machine was like an experiment, because I was not sure about the sufficient power of the motor. Therefore, I settled on a modular solution with a belt frame as a single element that can be removed and rearranged to a more powerful base. The speed of rotation of the motor suited me quite well, but I was worried that 6 A would give weak power. After a little testing, I saw that for simple work, this electric motor was suitable, but for more intensive work, you need to choose something more powerful. When designing your machine, pay attention to this point.

As I mentioned, the casing of the electric motor was very suitable, as it allowed you to create vertical machine which will be easy to move.

First you need to release it by removing the desktop, saw, protection, water tray, leaving only the electric motor. Another benefit of using this motor was the threaded core and nut to hold the saw in place, allowing the pulley to be mounted without the use of a key (I'll explain what a key is later).

Since I had a pulley that was too wide, I decided to use the large pressure washers that usually secure the saw, turning one upside down so that there is a wedge-shaped groove between them. I found that the space between them was too narrow, and to widen it, I put a lock washer between them. The advantage in this method is that the pressure washers have a flat edge, which is fixed with a flat edge for simultaneous rotation with the core.

Belt

The drive belt I used was 7 x 500mm. A standard 12mm can be used, but a thinner one is more flexible and will put less strain on the motor. He does not need to rotate the grinding wheel.

Belt sander device

The device is simple. An electric motor drives a belt that rotates a 10 x 5 cm "master" pulley that drives the abrasive belt. Another pulley 8 x 5 cm is located 40 cm above the main one and 15 cm behind it and is mounted on a bearing. The third 8 x 5 cm pulley rotates on a lever and acts as a tension roller, holding the abrasive belt tight. On the other side, the lever is attached to the frame by a spring.

Determining the drive type

The main issue was to rotate the main pulley directly with an electric motor or with the help of an additional pulley and a drive belt. First of all, I chose a belt drive because I wanted to be able to change the engine to a more powerful one, however, there was another reason. When you do intensive metalworking, there is a risk of running into some problems. Belt drive in such cases will slip, while direct drive will create big problems. With a belt, the device will be more secure.

Frame fabrication and installation

It is important to mention that using a metal angle as a frame can have both advantages and disadvantages. The obvious advantage is that it is convenient to assemble it, like a designer in childhood. But the main drawback is that it is strong only in two directions, but weak when twisting. So, you need to take into account this weakness and calculate what torque can be transmitted from the pulleys to the frame, and compensate for it with the help of additional jumpers.

Cutting:
You can use a hacksaw to cut the corner, but an angle grinder with cutting disc do things faster. After cutting off all the elements, I would recommend sanding all their sharp edges so as not to cut yourself during assembly. Holes can be drilled with a conventional drill and cutting fluid.

Main roller

The main roller is the most important part of the project, as it receives torque from the motor and transmits it to the belt. I used an old bushing to mount it, but I recommend using a bearing instead. The bushings do their job, but they constantly overheat and require regular lubrication. Moreover, they can scatter dirty grease, which is annoying during operation.

Shaft:
There are threads on the sides of the shaft with different directions so that the fixing bolts do not unscrew during rotation. If you cut off one threaded side, as I did, leave the one that goes counterclockwise, otherwise you will have to make a lock bolt (I will describe how to do it later) and a cotter pin. The main pulley will be put on the cut edge.

Pulley:
Continuing the theme of reuse, I found an old pulley from another project. Unfortunately, I prepared it for the threaded pin that it was supposed to hold on, but, in fact, this is not a problem. In this pulley, I made a rectangular cutout. Then, using an angle grinder, I cut a groove into the end of the shaft. By placing the key in the hole formed by the groove of the shaft and the rectangular cutout of the pulley, I securely fixed them relative to each other.

Production of rollers for a grinding machine

I made the rollers out of several pieces of hardwood 2.5 cm thick. But you can use MDF, plywood or other material. When laying the layers, it is necessary to make sure that the fibers are perpendicular, this will give the rollers additional strength and the layers will not split.

It is necessary to make three rollers: the main roller, the upper roller and the tension roller. The main roller is made from two 13 x 13 cm pieces 2.5 cm thick. The top and idler rollers are made from two pieces of wood measuring 10 x 10 cm.

Process:
Start by gluing pairs of 13 cm and 10 cm pieces of wood, clamping them with clamps. After the glue has dried, trim the corners with miter saw, then find the center of each part. Fasten them in lathe and process until their dimensions are 5 x 10 cm and 5 x 8 cm.

Top and tension rollers:
Next, you need to install the bearings in rollers measuring 5 x 8 cm. Select a core or spade drill, and drill a recess in the center to the width of the bearing. The inner ring of the bearing must rotate freely, so you need to drill a hole passing through the roller through inner ring bearing. This will allow the bolt to pass through with a minimum opening.

Main video:
This detail is done a little differently. There are no bearings on it, however, if the shaft is less than 5 cm out of the roller, it will be necessary to grind the roller in width. Measure the diameter of the shaft and drill the same hole in the center of the roller. Try to insert the shaft, it must hold tight, otherwise the roller will shake.

Bolting rollers

Next, you should fasten the two halves of the rollers with bolts, you should not rely only on glue. Remember that the bolt heads must be sunk into the wood as the roller rotates in close proximity to the frame.

Tension lever

The lever is made of a metal bar measuring 10 x 30 x 200 mm with rounded edges. It is necessary to drill rather large holes in it, so I recommend using drilling machine and lots of lube. You will need 4 holes in total. The first is at the pivot point. It is not in the center of the bar, but 8 cm from its edge. The second hole will be on the edge closest to the pivot point. It will serve to attach the spring. Two additional holes must be drilled at the opposite end, approximately 5 cm apart. They should be a little wider in diameter as they will be used for the setup I'll cover next.

When all the holes are made, you can fix the shoulder on the vertical corner between the top roller and the base. The end where the spring will be attached is directed towards the main roller. It should rotate freely, so I recommend using two nuts for fastening, not completely tightening the main one, and using the second one as a lock nut.

Installing rollers

The top roller is fixed statically and must be clearly in the same plane as the idler roller and the main roller. You can do everything by eye, but I recommend checking everything well with a level. To align the roller, you can add a washer, or, if it is not enough, a bolt. They are inserted between the frame and the roller.

It is not necessary to fully install the tension roller. Still need to make a stabilizing device.

Tape stabilization

Wear on the rollers or an uneven surface can cause the abrasive belt to gradually come off the rollers during operation. The stabilizer is a device on the idler that allows it to be angled to keep the abrasive belt centered. Its arrangement is much simpler than it looks and consists of a fixing bolt, a little free play on the idler pulley and an adjusting bolt.

Drilling holes in bolts:
For this purpose, I made a device, in the form of a wedge-shaped cut in the board, which will help to hold the bolt in place at the time of drilling. You can do it manually, but I don't recommend it.

fixing bolt

A fixing bolt is a simple bolt with a hole drilled in it, and which is installed on the bar through a wide hole that is closer to the pivot point of the lever. Since it is located between the lever and the roller, its head must be ground off so that the roller does not cling to it. The bolt must be fixed as shown in the figure.

Bolt holding roller

It needs to be loosened a little so that the tension roller has a little play. But so that it does not unwind, you need to make a castellated nut. To do this, you just need to make cuts on the edges of a regular nut so that it looks like a crown. There will be two drilled holes in the bolt itself: one for the adjusting bolt, and it will be aligned with the hole of the fixing bolt, and the other for fixing the castle nut with the cotter pin.

Bolt for setting:
Once the idler is in place, the adjusting bolt can be installed, which will pass through the holes of the fixing bolt and the bolt on which the idler rotates. The system works by tightening the adjusting bolt, causing the idler wheel's axis of rotation to shift its angle of rotation outward, thus causing the belt to move closer to the mechanism. A spring at the other end of the arm adjusts the tension in the opposite direction. I recommend securing the adjusting bolt with a locknut, as vibrations can loosen it.

Note: It is possible to add a spring on the back of the idler, but I have not found any reason why this is worth doing. A slight advantage is that in this way the roller will have less play. But I will add that I did not do this, and I did not have any problems.

Completion of work on the manufacture of the machine with your own hands

When everything is done, you need to check all the bolts again, and make sure that the stabilization mechanism is assembled correctly. Then you need to turn on the device for the first time, which can be scary. It's like driving a car where the steering wheel and transmission don't work. I recommend turning the motor on and off for a very short time so that the machine does not spin at full speed.

In fact, the hardest part for me was the spring setting. If you pull too hard, the tape will not be able to rotate ... Too weak - and it is impossible to hold it, it flies, which in itself is dangerous.

Ready!

That's all. You should get a decent tape grinding machine medium power, which can be converted to a more powerful one if desired.

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Thank you for your attention.

I made a site about homemade products myself. On our website you will find homemade products, a clear instruction will help you to assemble and use the homemade product you have chosen without any problems at home or at work.

The large drum turns the machine into a kind of grinding surface thicknesser.

A homemade wood grinder with a large diameter grinding drum allows you to process workpieces thinner than 3 mm. In this machine, in comparison with a wide-belt machine, a labor-intensive tape guide mechanism is not required in the manufacture.

Sanding drum manufacturing procedure

The grinding drum of the machine is glued from separately sawn and milled discs. The skin is fastened and stretched with a special clamp. To change the thickness of the wood being removed, the machine table moves relative to the drum. The back of the desktop is hinged and the front rests on a threaded stud for adjustment. The workpiece is supported and guided by a feed table that slides along the worktable. The feeding table moves manually, so a special power-driven feeder is not needed, and this greatly simplifies the design,

How to make a wood grinder body with your own hands

The body is assembled from nine main steels: two side and rear panels of the front brace and two linings, a dowel-brace at the front rib and two reinforcement disks. All parts are sawn to the dimensions shown in fig. 1.

Since the desktop must be strong enough and not bend when pressed against the drum, we made it from two sheets of chipboard glued and screwed together. In addition, on the feed side, the work table was reinforced with a thick hardwood crossbar, which at the same time creates a supporting surface for the adjusting pin.

A feed table walks along the work table, directly supporting and guiding the workpiece during calibration. It is made of 20 mm chipboard and 38 mm narrower than the work table and this length. The table serves to support the workpiece after the passage of the drum. In order for the feed table to move along the desktop without skew, a groove 6 mm deep and 20 mm wide was selected in the middle of its lower side, and a 5 mm thick guide bar was attached to the desktop.

Two slats at the ends of the drop table hold it on top of the long work table. To ensure the smooth movement of the table, a thin veneer pad is inserted between the slats and the desktop, providing a small gap. To prevent the workpiece from slipping back during grinding, a 5mm hardwood stop bar is inserted into the 3mm slot in the table (Fig. 1).

The desktop is attached to the back of the case with two hinges. The crossbar on the worktable must align with the adjusting pin. The drum is made from chipboard. Its width is 460 mm, Ø400 mm, which provides an extensive grinding area. The drum is assembled from 24 discs, roughly sawn individually, and then glued and fastened with screws (Fig. 2). The drum is balanced after installing the skin clamp.

To reduce the weight of the drum, most of all discs are sawn in the form of rings with a width of 50 mm. Two outer discs and one in the middle are solid and have holes drilled for a steel axle Ø20 mm. The drum is pasted over with dense rubber 1.5 mm thick. It serves as a substrate for the skin and provides it with a better fit to the part.

Fastening sander skins on wood

To facilitate insertion and removal of the skin, we have developed a simple lever-spring clip.fig. 3).

Installing the drum sander

The drum rotates on a Ø20 mm axle (you can use a Ø16 mm axle) supported by four caged bearings bolted to the side panels of the machine. Holes for them, to make it easier to align the drum, are drilled with a diameter slightly larger than the diameters of the bolts.

As a drive, we chose a single-phase motor 1750 rpm. The base of the motor is attached directly to the rear panel, and the switch is attached to one of the pads on the front of the machine. A pulley 2 * 75 mm was put on the motor shaft, the driving and driven pulleys were inserted into the same plane and fixed.

V. Laskin, D. Ren. Canada
According to the magazine SAM

homemade-universal

Universal table

Desktop planers- design and assembly

DIY woodworking machine - drawings

traditional desk

Section: Various homemade products Date of publication: 2-03-2012, 03:58

Belt sanders for wood are a technique that is used at the final stages of the production of parts and structures made of wood and wood-based materials. The equipment is used for finishing machining blanks.

Since the need for such exists in a variety of industries, wood sanding machines have become widespread.

Such units are of particular value for manufacturers of furniture and other consumer goods made of wood. Modern grinders are able to process various types of wood, which indicates their versatility and multifunctionality.

What is the main purpose of such equipment?

The key purpose of the use of grinding machines is the final leveling wooden surface, elimination of irregularities and roughness, creation of smooth even surfaces, removal of minor mechanical defects, varnish deposits, burrs.

Also, belt grinders are often used when processing roundings, as well as for internal grinding of workpiece elements.

The basic areas of application of these machines, depending on the type of feed and processing, are as follows:

Processing of curved surfaces, providing for the free movement of the tape;
Grinding of flat parts on a fixed table, as well as with manual or mechanized movement of the working surface;
Grinding bar and panel elements;
Processing the paintwork of the part.

To understand what a belt sander for wood is, it makes sense to study their design in more detail.

Let's consider this issue in more detail below.

Structural features of the grinder

Today, belt grinders are produced by both domestic and foreign companies. The range and variety of this type of equipment is quite wide, as well as the prices for it. Models vary depending on performance and other parameters.

How to make a belt sander with your own hands?

Their designs also differ, but, nevertheless, there is something that unites them and makes them similar to each other. We are talking about the main processing tool - an abrasive belt.

In the predominant majority of models of wood grinding machines, it is a closed ring of the processing blade, which is fixed between two rotating drums, one of which plays the role of a leading element connected to the power unit.

The driving drum, as a rule, is equipped with a mechanical transmission, the basic element of which is a belt drive. It is on it that the torque is supplied from the electric motor.

At the same time, the design of the belt grinder for wood provides for the possibility of choosing the intensity of rotation of the driving drum, which allows you to select the most appropriate format for processing a particular workpiece.

Depending on the design features of a particular machine model, the abrasive belt can be located in a horizontal or vertical position.

There are also special modifications of the units, the design of which provides for the location of the tape at a certain angle. The tape is installed on the frame, where the workpiece is polished.

In simplified devices, the workpiece is held by the master manually. However, this format of grinding is becoming more and more obsolete, as it is not safe enough and unproductive. Models in which the workpiece is fixed by means of special accessories are characterized by increased productivity and processing efficiency.

The desktop of a wood grinder is one of the key design elements.

It is usually made from wood or metal. In the second case, the unit will be convenient when working with more complex forms. An important parameter of the table is its size.

It is on the dimensions of the working surface that it will depend on how large parts the master can process using the machine. An experienced specialist knows that if the part is longer than the desktop, it will not be easy to process it. Of course, this inconvenience will affect the quality of the final product, and the working time will be longer.

Today, manufacturers of wood belt sanders offer two main types of devices - with a fixed and movable work surface, as well as machines with a movable abrasive belt.

In all this diversity, a separate group of units stands out - wide-belt machines, in which the table combines the functions of a working surface and a feeder. Machines equipped with a table have a horizontal belt, while machines with a free abrasive belt can provide any angle of inclination.

It is no secret that during the grinding of a wooden workpiece a large amount of chips are formed.

So that it does not interfere with the master to do his work, domestic and foreign equipment manufacturers equip machine tools with special high-performance hoods, which remove most of the waste during operation.

As for power units for grinders, here most manufacturers are limited to electric motors with a rated power in the range of 2.5-2.8 kW.

The average belt speed when installing such a motor is about 20 meters per second.

conclusions

Today, belt grinders are produced in large numbers all over the world. European and, in particular, German companies are considered leaders in terms of the quality of structures and the intensity of innovation in them. Among the flagships, it is worth highlighting such brands as Fein, Loeser, WAHLEN, SALTEC, NIEDERBERGER, BM.

If you are looking for more affordable equipment, then you should pay attention to domestic achievements in this area.

Worthy in terms of price and quality units are supplied to the CIS market by the Lipetsk Machine Tool Plant. The equipment produced by MS-GROUP and LLC NEVASTANKOMASH is also in demand. A compromise choice between expensive German cars and domestic units lagging behind in a number of parameters can be the products of the Czech brand PROMA.

Obviously, finding the right equipment for the master will not be difficult.

You just need to decide how much you are willing to spend on equipment and what exactly you expect from it.

Assembling a homemade grinder

Process Features

A homemade grinder is not such a rarity; it is quite possible to assemble it with your own hands.

The grinder is indispensable for finishing wood parts.

A grinder is a necessary thing and will always come in handy in the household.

If you come across spare parts in large quantities, besides there is free time and a desire to try yourself as a design engineer, then a home-made grinder in your hands will turn out to be suitable for work.

So, you will need:

motor (its role can be played by any other motor taken from any electrical device);
electric drive (for these purposes, the most ordinary battery from a computer Ups is suitable);
screws;
wires;
switch;
board;
sandpaper;
glue;

Stages of assembly and installation

Grinding machine diagram

After you have all the necessary tools at your disposal, you can begin to make a grinding unit.

To start on wooden board, pre-treated with varnish, you need to attach the motor. Finding it is easy, many people at home will probably have an old non-working hard drive from a computer. Having disassembled it, removed the top cover and removed the head block, you will get the perfect workpiece - a motor. If you want your grinder to have more power, then it makes more sense to use a more powerful motor.

For example, from a fan. And if you have plans to manufacture a serious stationary grinder, then in this case you need to take an electric motor from an unnecessary washing machine. Then, in addition to the function of grinding, she can also act as a grinder.

The next step will be the installation of the drive.

Sanding machines for wood: belt, disc, drum

In order for the motor to work, you need to provide it with an uninterrupted power supply. If your grinder has a small motor, then the power supply to it must be done in a special way. For example, through a battery.

After the main nodes of the homemade product are firmly fixed on the board, they will need to be connected to each other. This operation can be performed using ordinary wires. Do not forget about the switch, be sure to introduce it into the overall circuit.

If you install a felt nozzle on the grinder, you get a polishing machine.

Now you need to make a grinding wheel with your own hands.

To do this, take sandpaper and cut out two circles of a suitable diameter. Then glue them together. You have a finished grinding wheel made by yourself. Of course you can buy finished circle in any specialized store.

By the way, they also sell circles of small sizes.

Next, we proceed to attach the circle to the motor using two simple bushings. At the time of attachment, be guided by the diameter of the axis of the motor, as there is a possibility of a diameter mismatch. In this case, you can simply pick up plastic bushings according to the axle diameter.

As you can see, the process of making a grinder with your own hands is quite simple and does not require much effort and cost.

After all, it can be made from improvised materials. With the help of such a machine, you can easily grind various metal or wooden parts.

DIY wood sanding machine video drawings

There is a huge amount of sanding equipment that makes any wood surface very smooth.

It is a frame on which a special frame with an electric motor is located (motors are used for homemade products). washing machines ok) and mechanism. The mechanism itself, in turn, includes shafts, pulleys and an abrasive belt.

Application area

They are used in all industries where wood is processed.

Often, any draft products have an uneven and rough surface. Such blanks cannot simply be painted and put up for sale or installed anywhere.

Belt sander

These shafts are driven by an asynchronous electric motor. The abrasive belt does not sag during wood processing, but rests against the working plane, which has a low coefficient of friction. The tape can be placed both horizontally and vertically.

The advantage of this equipment is the processing of long workpieces.

Disc grinder

The working area of this equipment is an abrasive wheel.

A circle with Velcro is attached to the axis of the electric motor, on which the abrasive is attached. After starting the motor, the abrasive wheel rotates around its axis, thereby carrying out grinding. This type of machine has the ability to adjust the processing speed, and the number of revolutions of the axis will not decrease.

grinders. And that's not all, so as not to spend money on machines, people came up with grinders from a drill, from Bulgarian.

The fact is that nozzles are fixed on these tools and the same grinding is carried out.

Motor power calculation

Important! Before creating any homemade brainchild that performs grinding functions, it is extremely important to correctly calculate the power of the electric drive.

After all, if the motor power is weak or vice versa strong, then you cannot do any work.

P=qS(K+k)U/1000n

Blueprints photo scheme. As an example for visual study, consider a belt sander.

Grinding machine drawing

The other side of the bed is designed to accommodate the shaft, with a pulley for a belt and rollers for an abrasive belt. The tape itself is installed with a slight slope.

This is done so that the abrasive smoothly and gently comes into contact with the machined plane of the workpiece.

Tip: Before installing the abrasive strip on the rollers, it is necessary to wrap a thin strip of rubber around them. This will reduce strip slip during operation.

Wood board.
Ball bearings.
Electric motor.
Rubber strap.
Rubber belt.
Metal pulley.
Self-tapping screws, fasteners.
abrasive element.

After we have decided on the materials and working tools, we can begin to assemble all the parts and elements into one mechanism. For this, the frame is assembled. It can be metal (consist of a metal-profile pipe) or wood (consist of wooden bars and solid wood).

When the frame is ready

You can start installing the motor. The motor power must be at least 2.5 kW and not more than 3 kW, with the engine speed between 1200 and 1500 rpm. A pulley for a belt is installed on the motor shaft. The motor is mounted on one side of the frame.

Grinding machine - all its varieties

Motors are often used from washing machines used at home.

On the other side

A shaft with bearings is located, on one side of which a pulley is fixed, and on the other side a roller, an abrasive belt will be put on it in the future. Shaft pulley and motor pulley must be in a flat horizontal plane. The belt tensioner should be located in the same area.

Coming from wood

After that

Once everything is done, you can make the first start and configure the equipment properly. When the setting is done, the first workpiece is run and the result of the work is checked.

If everything worked out, it means that you did everything right.

download video instructions.

Video reviews

Belt sander for wood and metal
Do-it-yourself drum sander for wood
DIY wood grinder: drawings
DIY - plywood sander.

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How to make a grinder with your own hands: instructions with step by step photos

Nowadays, there are no surfaces that are not smooth.

Smoothness is achieved through various grinding devices. Professional equipment costs a lot of money and not everyone can buy it, moreover, such machines have a fairly high weight and dimensions.

Fortunately, the skilful hands of our country have adapted to produce analogues of equipment for such a modest budget. The grinding machine also did not stand aside and was subjected to a modernization of manual craftsmanship. It is with this homemade machine that we will continue to get acquainted.

There is a huge amount of sanding equipment that makes any wood surface very smooth. It is a frame on which a special frame with an electric motor is located (motors are used for homemade products). washing machines) and mechanism. The mechanism itself, in turn, includes shafts, pulleys and an abrasive belt.