Very cool and useful thing. Puller for bearings. Useful pipe, iron plate, large washer, bolt, nut.

To begin with, we mark on the pipe the size that needs to be sawn off. Weld the washer to the resulting segment. We put the nut exactly on the hole and weld it. Let's clean the bumps with a grinder.
Measure 1.5 centimeters, make a cut. On the other hand, it's the same. Cut off two small pieces from the plate. They will be inserted into two slots. Got a puller.

How does this tool work? We put on a bearing. We go behind him two records. We turn the bolt. It rests on the shaft and pulls the bearing off it. With this tool, you can easily remove it from the generator and electric motor. The outer diameter of the part must not exceed the inner diameter of the pipe.

Video AVTO CLASS.

Second idea

Airat Valiakhmetov, the host of the eponymous channel on youtube, developed his own original idea. In the store, such tools are not cheap. So I decided to do it myself. I took a metal strip 30 wide, 4 mm thick. Cut it into strips. Welded. Plates. Hooks to grip the bearing. Two cuts are made with a grinder. Two nuts are inserted and welded on. I took the worm from an old Soviet clamp. Hardened steel. To make the tool universal, I made 4 holes on each side. Can be set to any width. If necessary, the paws are pulled out, turned over to the other side. You can pull out the bearing.

Most often used by motorists to press out and replace the driveshaft cross. You can also perform such a procedure with a hammer, but then you can damage both the cardan and the cross itself. Therefore, we will consider how to dismantle the cross in a more humane and in a simple way using this device.

What is a frog puller and why is it needed

Driveshaft cross puller- This is a tool that is used to dismantle various parts and assemblies (pulleys, gears, bushings, wheels, couplings, bearings) that have an interference fit. This tool consists of two base plates, two ties, two nuts, two pieces of pipe and a bolt. As a rule, it is made of structural steel.

A driveshaft cross puller can effortlessly remove the bearings from their forks without damaging adjacent parts. Also, the puller can act as a device for repairing the cardan joint, since the cardan joints serve an average of 70-80 thousand km, during which time they wear out sufficiently and require replacement. The puller in this case helps to extend the life of the work. In this case, you need to know that the spikes of the cross are worn more intensively only on one side. Therefore, when removing the hinge, it is necessary to make appropriate notes, rinse and lubricate its parts, and then reassemble and install, while turning the cross by 180 ° C around one of the axes relative to the previous position, in this case, the main load during operation will fall on less worn side. As a result, such a hinge will last more than one thousand kilometers.

Types of pullers

For different tasks and specific situations, pullers of certain designs can be used. Therefore, in order to figure out which frog puller is better to use, you need to understand its varieties and purpose.

There are several types of pullers:

1.hydraulic- they are designed to dismantle various parts and assemblies (pulleys, gears, bushings) that have an interference fit. In this category, fixtures with the following types of construction are most often used:

  • two-grip (for work in confined spaces);
  • three-grip (to create a secure grip).

2.Mechanical used to dismantle parts that are installed with an interference fit, in the case when little effort is needed to remove them. The puller's claw locking mechanism allows you to adjust or change the claw points by simply turning the locking nut.

3."Clamps", are used to remove gears, bearings, wheels, couplings, impellers, pulleys and other interference fit parts that can be damaged when removed with conventional pullers. The design of the collar provides a secure grip only when the shape of the part does not allow the use of a conventional puller.

4.Universal cross puller- designed for dismantling of parts installed with an interference fit, such as gears, wheels, couplings, impellers, as well as thin-walled and holes-installed parts (cages, bearings) that can be damaged when removed with conventional pullers. The Universal Puller is a unique combination of a collar puller, a combination (outer/inner) puller and a hollow shaft jack that can be removed and used separately.

Since these are the best-selling pullers, consider their types:

  1. Cross-piece remover Universal JTC-5571 (cost 7800 rubles)
  2. Cross-piece remover Universal Autom 11210 (cost 760-1000 rubles)
  3. Cross-piece remover Universal Avtom-2 (price 800 rubles)

There are also designs of pullers for internal and external gripping of the part. The cost of pullers for all types of crosses varies from 500-7900 rubles. In the presented video, you can get acquainted with the methods of using the puller.

Using a puller to remove and install the driveshaft cross

How to use the puller

As mentioned earlier, a puller can be used to replace the driveshaft cross. Therefore, further we will consider in more detail the stages of removing the cross.

Step-by-step instructions for removing the cross:

  1. After removing the cardan shaft, it is necessary to clean the hinges from dirt.
  2. Then, on one side of the cardan, marks are applied that indicate the relative position of the cardan joints, these actions are primarily necessary in order to avoid violation.
  3. The next step to remove the cross is to disassemble the universal joint.
  4. Using circlip pliers, remove the four corresponding circlips.
  5. If we take into account the installation of bearings in the joint forks with an interference fit, there is a possibility that the forks will be damaged during disassembly of the cardan, especially with corrosion. In this case, experts recommend pre-treating the entire cardan shaft joint with a special penetrating lubricant, and when dismantling the crosses, use a special puller instead of a hammer.
  6. With the help of a puller, the bearings are partially pressed into the tool cup until the cross rests against the fork, although the bearing itself comes out of the fork only 1/3 from its own height.
  7. In order not to deform the pipe, the fork of the cardan shaft is clamped in a vise, and then the lugs of the front shaft fork, through a drift, are struck with a hammer, due to which the cross is shifted all the way into the fork.
  8. Further, two half-rings are made from a piece of pipe, which are installed on the spike of the cross, immediately after the front cardan yoke (together with it) has been moved to the opposite side.
  9. After that, using a puller, the bearing is pressed out of the cardan yoke, then the cross is also removed from the rear propeller shaft yoke.
  10. In the same way, the bearing is removed from the front shaft fork, after carefully clamping it in a vise, after which it is already possible to remove the cross.

It is also worth paying attention that before replacing the cross, you need to carefully prepare the cardan eyes. To do this, they need to be cleaned of dirt and rust. In a similar way, the grooves of the retaining rings are cleaned.

This manual will help motorists not only save money, but also gain the necessary skills for work. Because today the cost of car repair services is too high, and not everyone can afford to carry out car maintenance in a car service. Having such a device as a driveshaft cross puller, it will cope with the procedure for replacing the cross or repairing the cardan itself, it will be much easier with your own hands.

But if your garage does not have such a thing, but there is enthusiasm, you can even make such a puller with your own hands, saving 500 rubles to purchase a store version.

How to make a frog puller yourself

If the landing of the cross with an interference of 0.005-0.038 mm, then the impact method can no longer be disassembled without damaging the parts. In this case, pressing out will be necessary, but if the parts have been corroded, then this process will be quite complicated. To facilitate the task of replacing the cross, such a device can not only be bought, but also made by hand.

In order to make a device for pressing out the crosses of the cardan shafts, it will be necessary to cut a bracket from sheet metal 16 mm thick, and then weld nuts with an M22 thread to it (it will be possible to order from a turner). Also for the manufacture you need a screw with a thread, a crank and a crank nut. Other parts, such as power screw and threaded parts, can be machined from strong steel. Although this will turn out to be a very store-like version of the cross-piece puller. There are ways to make it simpler - just using two powerful bolts and weld nuts to the plate.

Using the device, it is necessary to unscrew the screw 1 little by little, and by tightening the screw 5 gradually press the bearing into the hinge yoke. And when the bearing, gradually moving in the hole of the eye, releases the groove of the retaining ring, then the pressing should be stopped and the marked retaining ring should be installed in the groove. Further, pressing the cross to the already pressed bearing, turn the hinge fork 180 degrees. In the same way, we press in the second bearing and repeat this work twice more on the other universal joint yoke.

Also have another way to make fixtures, but for this you need semi-automatic welding and a reverse hammer.

You need to weld a bolt to the nut, for this we fill it with a grinder so that there is a sharp tip, drip welding onto the cup of the cross and weld the bolt. Then we screw in the reverse hammer and knock out the nut from the cross. This method is convenient provided that there is a semi-automatic device. There are other ways, for example, sawing the cross with a grinder, but then you need to knock out the nut in the same way.

The cross-piece puller has many advantages, the most important difference and advantage of using a cross-piece puller is the absence of damage to neighboring parts. Also, another plus is the time saving when performing operations, because when using a puller, all actions are performed much faster than when using improvised means.

When repairing the steering and running gear, almost every car owner is faced with the problem of removing ball joints (tie rod ends), which is rather problematic to solve without a special tool.

Reason - design features of these elements: their fingers have a conical shape, with which they enter the landing sockets, over time, the place of this entry becomes dirty, oily, rusty, making the connection of the surfaces too tight, almost uniform, that is, one that cannot be separated by simple physical action. We need an assistant - a ball bearing puller - a tool that greatly simplifies pressing out.

It is not difficult to become its owner: to do this, you need to go to the nearest car shop and purchase it there or make a do-it-yourself ball joint puller using any of the methods below, which we have grouped depending on how force is created in them.

Screw pullers.

The force in these types of pullers is created by screwing the bolt into their body: the tool body is put on the eye of the ball joint, the bolt rests on the finger and, when twisted, presses it out of its seat.

These types of pullers are quite compact, therefore they are considered universal, that is, suitable for any car, although such mechanisms are most popular among VAZ owners.

Consider how to make a do-it-yourself ball bearing puller using examples of screw options.

Option number 1 - screw expanding.

  1. Take a 7-centimeter 4- or 6-sided rod with turnkey edges of 17 or 19.
  2. Using a drilling tank, make a hole inside its body and cut a thread for an M8 bolt.
  3. Screw this bolt into the hole prepared for it. The puller is ready.

How it works, we will explain using the example of pressing out the upper ball joint of the "seven".

  1. Unscrew the lock nut. We twist, but do not remove.
  2. Between the fingers of the supports we install the made puller, the bolt in it is screwed up to the stop and rests with the cap on the finger that needs to be pressed out.
  3. We take 2 keys: with one we hold the puller body, with the second we unwind its bolt. We unwind until the support pin is pressed out of the socket.

If it is necessary to dismantle the lower ball joint, all actions are done in the same way, only with the puller turned upside down.

Option number 2 - screw L-shaped.

  1. Take a 15-17 cm round metal bar with a diameter of 10 mm or more. Using a vise and a hammer, bend it with the letter "G" (the length of the short arm should be 5 cm).
  2. On the long arm of the workpiece, cut the thread and match the nut to it.
  3. Take a metal plate half a centimeter thick and cut a hole in it for the support pin using the wedge puller technology (it will be shown below).
  4. On the thickened part of the wedge, opposite the slot, make a hole for the L-shaped blank and thread the long part of the rod into it, only after that screw the nut onto the “improved” rod. Do not tighten too much - the wedge-shaped insert should have a good stroke.

  1. Insert the plate into the gap between the eyelet and the support. The short arm of the L-shaped element should rest against the finger.
  2. Start tightening the nut and do this until the finger is pressed out.

Option number 3 - a screw puller of ball bearings, made from a corner.

  1. Take a 7-8 cm metal corner, half a centimeter thick, maybe a little less.
  2. On one side, make a cut; with this cut, the tool will be attached to the eye.
  3. From metal plates equal in thickness to the metal of the corner, cut out 2 identical triangles and weld them on the sides of the corner.
  4. Take a 17 nut, pick up a long bolt to it, weld spacers to this nut on both sides, they will help to position the puller bolt on the same axis with the support pin in the future.
  1. Screw the bolt into the fixed nut and wring out the finger using the technology described above (in other types of screw pullers).

As you can see, to create a ball joint puller, you can use almost all available materials, the main thing is to understand the principle of operation, a drawing will help you:

Lever pullers.

Lever pullers are a tool consisting of a pair of levers connected to each other in the middle. Also on the one hand they have a coupling bolt. In the process of acting on the ball joint, this bolt is unscrewed, bringing the ends of the levers together, one of which is located between the support and the lug, the second is under the finger.

Such pullers are also quite effective, but have larger size and therefore may not be applicable everywhere.

wedge type puller.

The simplest in its design, but it also copes well with the task assigned to it. To make it you will need:

  • take a small metal plate (enough size for a matchbox);
  • using a grinder (angle grinder) / machine with an abrasive wheel, give it the shape of a wedge, the resulting workpiece in profile should take the form of a triangle;
  • with the same grinder, starting from the upper corner of the triangle, it is necessary to make a vertical cut in it 2/3 of its height, a little wider than the diameter of the ball joint pin;
  • to facilitate working with the tool, it is recommended to weld a metal rod to the middle of the base of the wedge, although this may not be done if you do not have such a rod at hand.

Here is such a kind of bracket you should get in the end.

  1. insert the wedge just made between the ball body and the eye;
  2. hitting the rod (the base of the wedge) with a hammer, drive in the homemade support puller until the finger pops out of the socket.

IMPORTANT!

When using this type of puller, there is always a risk of damage to the anther, therefore, such a tool can only be used in the event of a planned replacement of tips or supports. If the repair of the steering mechanism or suspension does not provide for such a replacement, it is better to refuse a wedge-type puller.

Puller directly ball bearings.

It is used for cars (Citroen, Peugeot) whose ball joint is screwed into the lever. And since it is screwed in and not pressed in, it is not practical to use the above tool options, you need a special puller, which we suggest you make from 8 cm thick metal pipe on 2".

  1. On one of the ends of this pipe, equidistant from each other, using a grinder or a hacksaw, make 4 rectangular spikes 5 × 7 mm.
  1. On the second end, with the same tool, again, equidistant from each other to a depth of 3 cm, cut the slots so that in the end you get 8 petals.
  2. With a hammer, slightly bend these petals towards the center of the circle, thereby reducing its diameter.
  1. Take a 24mm nut and weld it to the tapered side of the workpiece. Do-it-yourself ball joint puller is ready.

It is easy to use: put it on the support so that the spikes enter the existing grooves of the ball body, then turn the welded nut with a 24 wrench, thereby dismantling the suspension element you need.

Video.

A must have for every true master. Sometimes there is a need to repair power tools, and namely, the replacement of bearings, which wear out sooner or later. If you remove the bearing with a hammer, screwdrivers and other not very suitable solutions, there is a risk of damaging the axle, threads or individual nodes on the axle, more often it happens. And sometimes the bearing sits on the axle so firmly that it can be removed far and not by every puller.


In this tutorial, you will learn how to make a simple, powerful puller that will always help you out in a difficult situation. To assemble it, you will need a piece of thick-walled pipe and a thick steel plate. If you wish, you can make yourself several pieces of such pullers for products various sizes. Consider in order how to make such a device.

Materials and tools used
List of materials:
- thick-walled pipe;
- thick steel plate;
- bolt and nut (larger);
- a metal rod (a handle is made from it);
- dye.

List of tools:
- ;
- (cutting disc, metal brush, as well as a grinding disc);
- a drill with large bits or a drilling machine;
- lathe, cutting machine(not necessary).

Puller manufacturing process:

Step one. Preparing the main part
A piece of thick-walled steel pipe acts as the main part of the puller, it works like a frame. If the pipe is not strong enough, and the loads are large. It can easily be bent. The wall thickness of the pipe must be at least 3 mm.







We cut off the desired piece from the pipe, the author uses a cutting machine for this, but everything can be done with a grinder. Now the most difficult part begins, you need to cut a window in the pipe. This can be done with the help of a grinder, it is long, but quite feasible.

Step two. We make the upper and lower supports
For the upper support, the author decided to use the thickest possible sheet steel. Cut out the circle desired diameter. The author uses a grinder for work, first we cut out the “polygon”, and then with the help of a grinding wheel we bring it to the ideal.

Cut out the other circle in the same way. Here the author used a slightly thinner steel, but it’s better not to risk it, since the loads on both supports are approximately the same.
















In the end, you need to modify the supports. Drill a hole for the bolt in the top support. First, we drill a small hole with a drill, and then ream it to the desired diameter. The author used a lathe for these purposes.

As for the lower support, we also drill a hole in the center in it, in diameter it should be slightly larger than the diameter of the axles from which you are thinking of removing the bearings. Then cut a triangle shape to this hole. Supports are ready, let's move on!
















Step three. Welding
In this step, we need to weld both supports to the body. The welding seam must be good, reliable, we set more current so that the metal melts well.








Having welded the supports, now you need to fix the nut. We wrap the bolt in it and insert it into the hole. We weld the nut well, but try not to overheat, as the metal can become soft. The author attaches the nut from above, but I would recommend attaching it from the inside, so it will rest on the support, and the tear weld may not be too reliable.

At the end, you will have to fix the handle, for this the author used a threaded rod. Using the handle will be convenient to remove bearings that are not too tight. Otherwise you can always use wrench.




Step four. Completion and testing
When you complete the welding work, you need to clean the welds, but this is more of an aesthetic moment, there is little practical use here. The author cleans the slag with a wire brush, and cleans the seams with a grinding disc. The whole body can be brought to a shine. Now paint homemadeso that the metal does not rust.




















Finally, sharpen the end of the bolt so that it rests when twisting into the "hole" provided on any axis. Also, remember to lubricate the threads well so that the puller works easily and for a long time.

During the repair of the chassis and steering, it almost always becomes necessary to remove the ball joints or tie rod ends.

Feature of these structural elements is that the pin of the support or tip has a conical shape, with which it enters the seat.

During operation, the landing density increases so much that the surfaces of this connection practically stick to each other.

Additionally, moisture can get between the pin and the socket, causing corrosion pockets that further seal the connection.

Therefore, to remove the ball bearings or tips, special pullers are used to press out the pin with minimal effort.

Types of pullers

The auto tool market offers a wide selection of such removable mechanisms, which can be divided into two types:

  1. Screw;
  2. Lever.

Screw pullers are considered universal, and are suitable for working with almost any car.

The force in them is created by screwing the bolt into the puller body. The body itself is put on the eye of the support, and when tightening, the bolt rests against the support pin and presses it out of the socket.

Lever removable mechanisms are no less effective, but they are larger in size, so they may not be suitable for every car.

For example, with such a puller on the VAZ-2107, the upper ball joint can still be removed, but getting to the lower one will not work because of the very limited space.

For these purposes, a special puller is used.

The essence of the lever puller is the presence of two levers interconnected in the middle.

On the one hand, holes were made in them and a coupling bolt was installed.

For pressing out, one lever is installed between the eye and the support, while the second lever is obtained under the finger.

When the bolt is unscrewed, due to the existing connecting axis, the ends of the levers begin to converge, and the pin is pushed out.

But it is not necessary to purchase a removable mechanism; it can easily be made at home from improvised means.

Puller type - WEDGE

The simplest puller is the so-called "wedge". It does not belong to any type of removable mechanisms, but it is sufficient efficient fixture for extrusion.

To make it, you only need an angle grinder (“grinder”), you can also use a machine with an abrasive wheel.

A metal plate the size of a matchbox will act as a blank.

First, it is necessary to give the workpiece the shape of a wedge, for which we grind the metal with a “grinder” or a machine tool so that the profile of the plate looks like a triangle. Then, with the same “grinder”, we make a cut in the middle by 2/3 of the length of the workpiece from the side of the top of the triangle, that is, from the thin side of the wedge. The width of the cut should be slightly larger than the thickness of the support pin, that is, a kind of bracket should be obtained.

If desired, you can weld a metal rod to the bracket, which will further facilitate the work with the wedge.

Pressing out a finger with a wedge is very simple. It is installed in the gap between the eye and the support body. And then the wedge is simply clogged with a hammer, which leads to the finger popping out of the socket.

The disadvantage of the wedge is that in the process of pressing out the anther will be damaged. Therefore, the wedge can only be used when replacing supports or tips.

If the suspension and steering mechanism are being repaired, which does not imply the replacement of ball elements, it is better not to use a wedge.

Screw expansion mechanism

The second type of removable mechanism that can be made from improvised means is a screw expander. It is great for replacing ball joints of classic VAZ models.

A feature of the design of the suspension of these cars is that the upper and lower supports are located symmetrically to each other and the distance between them is not large.

It can be made at home only if there is drilling machine or you will have to go to a lathe workshop. Such a puller consists of only two parts.

To make it, you need a square or hexagonal rod with turnkey edges of 17 or 19, the length of which is 7 cm. In this rod, we make a hole with a drilling machine and cut the thread for the bolt by 8. We screw in the bolt and that's it - the puller is ready.

How it works, consider the example of the VAZ-2107. To press out the upper support, it is necessary to unscrew the lock nut, but not completely, it is not necessary to remove it. Then we install a manufactured puller with a bolt screwed up to the stop between the fingers of the supports.

To squeeze out a finger, we take two keys - with one we hold the manufactured case, and with the second we unscrew the bolt until the finger breaks off the socket. After replacing the upper support, we do the same, but with the lower one.

Screw L-shaped

The third type of removable mechanism that you can make yourself is also screw, but it has shown itself to be excellent and allows you to work on any car.

For its manufacture, you need a round metal rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of 15-17 cm.

It is necessary to make an L-shaped blank from it with a shoulder length of 5 cm. That is, we take a rod, measure 5 cm on it, clamp it in a vice and bend it 90 degrees with a hammer.

On the long part of the workpiece, we cut the thread and select the nut.

It remains to make a thrust bar. You can make it in the likeness of the wedge painted above. That is, we take a plate, but 0.5 cm thick. On the one hand, we make a cut under the support finger.

If necessary, the thickness of the plate on the side of the cut can be reduced by grinding off the metal layer. The main thing is that the plate enters the gap between the support body and the eye, while it does not turn out to be too thin, otherwise it will bend during the pressing process.

On the other hand, from the cut we make a hole for the L-shaped blank. It remains only to put the plate on the long part of the rod. If the thread turned out to be insufficient in length to squeeze out a finger, then several washers can be placed under the nut.

This puller works like this: We unscrew the nut almost to the end, install the plate in the gap between the support and the eye, and turn the rod so that the short arm rests on the finger.

Then we simply tighten the nut, while the plate will act as a stop, and the rod will squeeze out the finger with a short arm.

Screw, made from a corner

Another screw puller can be made from a metal corner and a welding machine.

To do this, we take a corner with sides of 7-8 cm and the same length, and a thickness of 0.3-0.5 cm.

In one of the sides we make a cut to fix the mechanism on the eye. From sheet metal with a thickness of 0.3 cm, we cut out two triangles that will act as braces. They need to be welded on the sides to the corner. This will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

We take a 17 nut and a long bolt under it. We weld the nut itself perpendicular to the slot so that the hole faces the cut.

So that in the future the bolt can be easily positioned on the same axis with the pin, before fixing the nut by welding, a spacer must first be welded to the corner.

It remains only to screw in the bolt and the puller can be used.

These are the simplest types of removable mechanisms that you can make yourself.

In general, there are a lot of options, besides having a little imagination and basic knowledge of plumbing, you can easily come up with and make your own puller.

We offer some drawings for viewing.

Support unscrewing tool

We will consider another type that is used not to press out a finger, but to extract the support itself.

The fact is that on a number of cars (Peugeot, Citroen) the ball joint is screwed into the lever. Over time, the threaded connection turns sour, and it is quite difficult to unscrew this suspension element without a special tool.

But the necessary puller can be made independently, and not spend money on a factory one.

It is made from a thick-walled pipe 2\'\' 8-9 cm long.

From the end of this pipe, it is necessary to make 4 spikes 5 mm wide and 7 mm high, located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other.

That is, it should turn out at the end of the pipe 4 protrusions evenly distributed around the circumference. This can be done with a hacksaw and a file, or with a grinder.


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