Taper bearing puller. DIY ball joint remover. With swivel arms

Very cool and useful thing... Bearing puller. Useful pipe, iron plate, large washer, bolt, nut.

First, mark the size on the pipe that you want to saw off. Weld the washer to the obtained segment. Put the nut exactly on the hole and weld it. Let's clean the irregularities with a grinder.
Measure 1.5 centimeters, make a cut. On the other hand, the same thing. Cut two small pieces from the plate. They will be inserted into two slots. It turned out to be a puller.

How does this tool work? We put on the bearing. We go for him two plates. We rotate the bolt. It rests on the shaft and pulls the bearing off it. With this device, you can easily remove it from the generator and electric motor. The outer diameter of the part must not exceed the inner dimension of the pipe.

Video AVTO CLASS.

Second idea

Ayrat Valiakhmetov - the host of the channel of the same name on youtube has developed his own original idea... In the store, such tools are not cheap. So I decided to do it myself. I took a metal strip 30 mm wide and 4 mm thick. Cut it into strips. Cooked. Plates. Hooks to grip the bearing. Two cuts are made with a grinder. Two nuts inserted, welded. He took the worm from an old Soviet clamp. Tempered steel. To make the tool universal, I made 4 holes on each side. Can be set to any width. If necessary, the paws are pulled out, turned over to the other side. You can pull out the bearing.

It is most often used by motorists for pressing out and replacing the universal joint shaft. You can perform this procedure with a hammer, but then you can damage both the cardan and the crosspiece itself. Therefore, we will consider how to dismantle the cross in a more humane and in a simple way using this device.

What is a crosspiece puller and why is it needed

Cardan shaft cross puller Is a tool that is used to dismantle various parts and assemblies (pulleys, gears, bushings, wheels, couplings, bearings) that have an interference fit. This tool consists of two shims, two ties, two nuts, two pipe pieces and a bolt. As a rule, it is made from structural steel.

A propeller shaft cross puller can effortlessly remove the bearings from their forks without damaging adjacent parts. Also, the puller can act as a device for repairing the cardan joint, since the cardan joint joints serve on average 70-80 thousand km, during which time they wear out sufficiently and require replacement. The stripper in this case helps to extend the life. In this case, you need to know that the cross studs wear out more intensively only on one side. Therefore, when removing the hinge, it is necessary to make the appropriate notes, wash and lubricate its parts, and then reassemble and install, while turning the crosspiece by 180 ° C around one of the axes relative to the previous position, in this case, the main load during operation will fall on less worn side. As a result, such a hinge will last more than one thousand kilometers.

Puller types

Pullers of certain designs can be used for different tasks and specific situations. Therefore, in order to figure out which cross-piece puller is better to use, it is necessary to understand its varieties and purpose.

There are several types of pullers:

1.Hydraulic - they are designed to dismantle various parts and assemblies (pulleys, gears, bushings) with an interference fit. In this category, devices with the following types of construction are most often used:

• two-grip (for work in confined spaces);
• three-grip (to create a secure grip).

2.Mechanical are used to dismantle parts that are installed with an interference fit, in the case when little effort is needed to remove them. The stripper jaw locking mechanism allows you to adjust or change the capture points by simply turning the locking nut.

3."Clamps"are used to dismantle gears, bearings, wheels, couplings, impellers, pulleys and other parts fitted with an interference fit, which can be damaged when removed with conventional pullers. The design of the clamp provides a secure grip only when the shape of the part does not allow the use of a conventional puller.

4.Universal cross-piece puller - designed for dismantling of parts installed with interference, such as gears, wheels, couplings, impellers, as well as thin-walled parts installed in holes (cages, bearings), which can be damaged when removed with conventional pullers. The Universal Puller is a unique combination of a “yoke” puller, a combined (external / internal) grip puller, and a hollow stem jack that can be removed and used separately.

Since these are the best-selling pullers, consider their types.:

1. Crosspieces remover Universal JTC-5571 (cost 7800 rubles)
2. Crosspieces remover Universal Autom 11210 (cost 760-1000 rubles)
3. Stripper of crosspieces Universal Autom-2 (price 800 rubles)

There are also designs of pullers for internal and external gripping of the part. The cost of pullers for all types of crosspieces varies from 500-7900 rubles. In the video presented, you can familiarize yourself with how to use the puller.

Using a puller to remove and install the propeller shaft cross

How to use the puller

As previously mentioned, the puller can be used to replace the propeller shaft cross. Therefore, further we will consider in more detail the stages of removing the cross.

Step-by-step instructions for removing the cross:

1. After removing the propeller shaft, the joints must also be cleaned from dirt.
2. Then, on one side of the universal joint, marks are applied, which indicate the relative position of the universal joints, these actions are primarily necessary in order to avoid a violation.
3. The next step to remove the cross will need to disassemble the cardan joint.
4. Using pliers to compress the retaining rings, remove the four corresponding rings.
5. If you take into account the installation of bearings in the hinge forks with an interference fit, there is a possibility that the forks will be damaged when disassembling the universal joint, especially due to corrosion. In this case, experts recommend pre-treating the entire propeller shaft joint with a special penetrating grease, and when dismantling the crosses, use a special puller instead of a hammer.
6. With the help of a puller, the bearings are partially pressed into the tool cup, until the crosspiece rests against the fork, although the bearing itself comes out of the fork only 1/3 from its own height.
7. In order not to deform the pipe, the propeller shaft hinge fork is clamped in a vice, and then blows with a hammer are applied to the front shaft fork lugs, through a drift, which causes the crosspiece to move all the way into the fork.
8. Further, two half rings are made from the pipe segment, which are installed on the spike of the cross, immediately after the fork of the front universal joint (together with it) has been moved in the opposite direction.
9. Then, using a puller, the bearing is pressed out of the universal joint fork, then the crosspiece is also removed from the rear universal joint shaft fork.
10. In the same way, the bearing is removed from the front shaft fork, after carefully clamping it in a vice, after which it is already possible to remove the crosspiece.

It is also worth noting that before replacing the cross, you need to carefully prepare the universal joint lugs. To do this, they need to be cleaned of dirt and rust. In the same way, clean the grooves of the circlips.

This instruction will help motorists not only save money, but also get the necessary skills for work. Because today the cost of car repair services is too high, and not everyone can afford to carry out car maintenance in a car service. Having such a device as a cardan shaft crosspieces puller, it will cope with the procedure of replacing the crosspiece or repairing the cardan itself, it will be much easier with your own hands.

But if there is no such thing in your garage, but there is enthusiasm, you can even make such a puller with your own hands by saving 500 rubles for purchasing a store version.

How to make a cross-piece puller yourself

If the fit of the cross is with an interference of 0.005-0.038 mm, then the shock method cannot be disassembled without damage to the parts. In this case, pressing out will be necessary, but if the parts have corroded, then this process will be quite difficult. To facilitate the task of replacing the crosspiece, such a device can not only be bought, but also made by hand.

In order to make a device for pressing out cardan shaft crosses, it will be necessary to cut out a bracket from sheet metal 16 mm thick, and then weld nuts with an M22 thread to it (can be ordered from a turner). Also for manufacturing you need a threaded screw, a wrench and wrench nuts. Other parts such as the power screw and threaded parts can be machined from strong steel. Although this will turn out to be a completely store-bought version of the cross-piece puller. There are ways to make it easier - just use two heavy-duty bolts and weld the nuts to the plate.

With the help of the device, it is necessary to gradually unscrew the screw 1, and by tightening the screw 5, gradually press the bearing into the hinge fork. And when the bearing, gradually advancing in the eye hole, releases the groove of the circlip, the pressing should be stopped and the marked circlip should be installed in the groove. Further, pressing the crosspiece to the already pressed-in bearing, turn the hinge fork 180 degrees. In the same way we press in the second bearing and repeat this work twice more on the other universal joint fork.

There is also other manufacturing method fixtures, but for this you need a semi-automatic welding and a reverse hammer.

A bolt must be welded to the nut, for this we fill it with a grinder so that there is a sharp tip, drip the welding onto the crosspiece cup and weld the bolt. Then we screw in the reverse hammer and knock out the nut from the cross. This method is convenient, provided that there is a semiautomatic device. There are still other ways, for example, cutting the cross with a grinder, but then you need to knock out the nut in the same way.

The crosspiece puller has many advantages, the main difference and the advantage of using the puller is the absence of damage to neighboring parts. Also, another plus is the saving of time when performing operations, because when using a puller, all actions are performed much faster than when using available tools.

Carrying out repairs to the steering and chassis, almost every car owner is faced with the problem of removing the ball joints (steering rod ends), which is rather problematic to solve without a special tool.

Reason - design features of the named elements: their fingers have a conical shape, with which they enter the landing nests, over time, the place of this entry becomes dirty, oily, rusts, making the connection of surfaces too dense, practically unified, that is, one that cannot be separated by simple physical action. We need an assistant - a ball joint puller - a tool that greatly simplifies pressing out.

It is not difficult to become its owner: to do this, you need to go to the nearest auto store and buy it there, or make a puller for ball joints with your own hands using any of the methods presented below, which we have grouped depending on how an effort is created in them.

Screw pullers.

The force in these types of pullers is created by screwing the bolt into their body: the tool body is put on the eye of the ball bearing, the bolt rests on the finger and, when screwed, extrudes that from its seat.

These types of pullers are quite compact, therefore they are considered universal, that is, suitable for any car, although such mechanisms are most popular among owners of VAZs.

Let's consider how to make a do-it-yourself ball joint puller using examples of screw options.

Option number 1 - screw expanding.

1. Take a 7-centimeter 4-or 6-sided rod with 17 or 19 flanks.
2. Using a drilling tank, make a hole inside its body and cut a thread for an M8 bolt.
3. Screw this bolt into the hole prepared for it. The puller is ready.

How it works, we will explain by the example of pressing out the upper ball joint "seven".

1. We unscrew the lock nut. We unscrew, but do not remove.
2. We install a made puller between the fingers of the supports, the bolt in it is screwed in until it stops and rests with the head against the finger that needs to be pressed out.
3. We take 2 keys: with one we hold the puller body, with the second we unscrew its bolt. We untwist until the support pin is pressed out of the socket.

If it is necessary to dismantle the lower ball, all actions are done in the same way, only with an inverted puller.

Option number 2 - screw L-shaped.

1. Take a 15-17 cm round metal rod with a diameter of 10 mm or more. Using a vise and a hammer, bend it with the letter "G" (the length of the short shoulder should be equal to 5 cm).
2. On the long arm of the workpiece, cut a thread and select a nut for it.
3. Take a metal plate half a centimeter thick and cut a hole in it for the support pin using the wedge puller technology (it will be given below).
4. On the thickened part of the wedge, opposite the notch, make a hole for the L-shaped workpiece and insert the long part of the rod into it, only after that screw the nut onto the “improved” rod. Do not tighten too much - the wedge plate should move well.

1. Insert the plate into the slot between the eyelet and the support. In this case, the short shoulder of the L-shaped element should rest against the finger.
2. Begin to tighten the nut and do this until the finger is extruded.

Option number 3 - a screw puller of ball joints, made of a corner.

1. Take a 7-8-centimeter metal corner, half a centimeter thick, or a little less.
2. Make a cut on one side, with this cut the tool will be attached to the eyelet.
3. Cut 2 identical triangles from metal plates equal in thickness to the metal of the corner and weld them on the sides of the corner.
4. Take a nut for 17, pick up a long bolt for it, weld the spacer to this nut on both sides, in the future they will help to position the puller bolt on the same axis with the support pin.

1. Screw the bolt into the fixed nut and squeeze the finger using the technology described above (in other types of screw pullers).

As you can see, to create a ball joint puller, you can use almost all the materials at hand, the main thing is to understand the principle of operation, a drawing to help you:

Lever pullers.

Lever pullers are a tool consisting of a pair of levers interconnected in the middle. They also have a tightening bolt on one side. In the process of acting on the ball joint, this bolt is unscrewed, bringing together the ends of the levers, one of which is located between the support and the eyelet, the second - under the finger.

Such pullers are also quite effective, but they have larger size, therefore, may not be applicable everywhere.

Wedge-type stripper.

The simplest in its design, however, it also copes well with the task assigned to it. To make it you will need:

• take a small metal plate (enough size for a matchbox);
• using a grinder (angle grinder) / machine with an abrasive wheel to give it the shape of a wedge, the resulting workpiece in profile should take the shape of a triangle;
• with the same grinder, starting from the upper corner of the triangle, you need to make a vertical cut in it by 2/3 of its height, a little wider than the diameter of the ball finger;
• to make it easier to work with the tool, it is recommended to weld a metal rod to the middle of the base of the wedge, although this may not be done if you do not have such a rod at hand.

Here is such a kind of brace you should end up with.

1. insert the wedge just made between the ball body and the lug;
2. hitting the rod (base of the wedge) with a hammer, hammer in the homemade support puller until the finger pops out of the socket.

IMPORTANT!

When using this type of puller, there is always a risk of damage to the boot, therefore, such a tool can be used only in case of a planned replacement of tips or supports. If the repair of the steering mechanism or suspension does not provide for such a replacement, it is better to refuse a wedge-type puller.

Ball joint puller directly.

Used for cars (Citroen, Peugeot) which ball joint is screwed into the lever. And since it is screwed in, and not pressed in, it is impractical to use the above tool options, you need a special puller, which we suggest you make from an 8-centimeter thick metal pipe on 2".

1. At one of the ends of this pipe, make 4 rectangular spikes 5 × 7 mm using a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, equidistant from each other.

1. At the second end, with the same tool, again equally spaced from each other to a depth of 3 cm, cut the slots so that in the end you get 8 petals.
2. Use a hammer to slightly bend these petals towards the center of the circle, thereby reducing its diameter.

1. Take a 24-inch nut and weld it to the tapered side of the workpiece. A do-it-yourself ball joint puller is ready.

It is simple to use it: put it on the support so that the spikes go into the existing grooves of the ball body, then turn the welded nut with a 24 wrench, thereby dismantling the suspension element you need.

Video.

Every real master must have it. Sometimes there is a need to repair power tools, namely, to replace bearings, which sooner or later wear out. If you remove the bearing with a hammer, screwdrivers and other not very suitable solutions, there is a risk of damaging the axle, threads or individual assemblies on the axle, more often it happens. And sometimes the bearing sits on the axle so firmly that it turns out to be removed far and not by every puller.

In this tutorial, you will learn how to make a simple, powerful puller that will always help you out in difficult situations. To assemble it, you need a piece of thick-walled pipe and a thick steel plate. If you wish, you can make yourself several pieces of such pullers for products. different sizes... Let's consider in order how to make such a device.

Materials and tools used
List of materials:
- thick-walled pipe;
- thick steel plate;
- bolt and nut (larger);
- a metal rod (a handle is made from it);
- paint.

Tool list:
- ;
- (cutting disc, metal brush, as well as a grinding disc);
- a drill with large bits or a drilling machine;
- lathe, cutting machine (not necessary).

Puller manufacturing process:

Step one. Preparing the main part
A piece of thick-walled steel pipe acts as the main part of the puller, it works as a frame. If the pipe is not strong enough, and the loads are large. It can be easily bent. The pipe wall thickness must be at least 3 mm.

We cut off the desired piece from the pipe, the author uses a cutting machine for this, but everything can be done with a grinder. Now the hardest part begins, you need to cut a window in the pipe. This can be done with a grinder, it is long, but quite feasible.

Step two. We make the upper and lower supports
For the upper support, the author decided to use the thickest sheet steel possible. Cut out the circle required diameter... The author uses a grinder for work, first we cut out a "polygon", and then with the help of a grinding wheel we bring it to the ideal.

Cut out the other circle in the same way. Here the author used steel a little thinner, but it is better not to risk this, since the loads on both supports are approximately the same.

Finally, you need to modify the supports. A bolt hole must be drilled in the upper support. First, we drill a small hole with a drill, and then we drill it to the desired diameter. The author used a lathe for these purposes.

As for the lower support, we also drill a hole in it in the center, it should be slightly larger in diameter than the diameter of the axles from which you are thinking of removing the bearings. Then cut a triangle shape to this hole. The supports are ready, let's move on!

Step three. Welding works
In this step, we need to weld both legs to the body. The welding seam must be good, reliable, we set a higher current so that the metal melts well.

Having welded the supports, now you need to fix the nut. We wrap a bolt in it and insert it into the hole. We weld the nut well, but try not to overheat, as the metal can become soft. The author attaches the nut from above, but I would recommend attaching it from the inside, so it will rest on the support, and the tear weld may not be very reliable.

In the end, you just need to fix the handle, for this the author used a threaded rod. With the help of the handle it will be convenient to remove bearings that are not too rigid. Otherwise, you can always use wrench.

Step four. Completion and test
When the welding work is completed, the welds need to be cleaned, but this is more of an aesthetic moment, there is little practical use. The author removes the slag with a wire brush, and smoothes the seams with a grinding disc. The entire body can be brushed. Now paint the homemade product so the metal doesn't rust.

Finally, sharpen the end of the bolt so that it rests when screwing into the “hole” provided on any axis. Also, be sure to lubricate the threads well to keep the puller running smoothly and easily.

During the repair of the chassis and steering, there is almost always a need to remove the ball joints or steering rod ends.

Feature of these structural elements is that the pin of the support or tip has a tapered shape, with which it fits into the seat.

During operation, the landing density increases so much that the surfaces of this compound practically stick to each other.

In addition, moisture can enter between the pin and the socket, causing corrosion centers that further seal the connection.

Therefore, to remove ball joints or tips, special pullers are used to press out the finger with minimal effort.

Puller types

The auto tool market offers a wide selection of such removable mechanisms, which can be divided into two types:

1. Screw;
2. Lever.

Screw pullers are considered universal and are suitable for work with almost any vehicle.

The force in them is created by screwing the bolt into the puller body. The body itself is put on the support eyelet, and when tightened, the bolt rests against the support pin and presses it out of the socket.

Lever removable mechanisms are no less effective, but they are larger in size, so they may not be suitable for every car.

For example, with such a puller on the VAZ-2107, the upper ball joint can still be removed, but it will not work to get to the lower one due to the very limited space.

For these purposes, a special puller is used.

The essence of a lever puller is reduced to the presence of two levers, interconnected in the middle.

On the one hand, holes have been made in them and a tightening bolt is installed.

For pressing out, one lever is installed between the eyelet and the support, while the second lever is obtained under the finger.

When the bolt is unscrewed due to the existing connecting axle, the ends of the levers begin to converge, and the pin is pushed out.

But it is not necessary to purchase a removable mechanism, it can easily be made at home from improvised means.

Puller type - WEDGE

The simplest puller is the so-called "wedge". It does not belong to any type of removable mechanism, but it is sufficient effective adaptation for pressing out.

To make it, you just need an angle grinder ("grinder"), you can also use a machine with an abrasive wheel.

A metal plate with the size of a matchbox will act as a blank.

First, it is necessary to give the workpiece the shape of a wedge, for which we grind the metal with a "grinder" or a machine so that in profile the plate looks like a triangle. Then with the same "grinder" we make a cut in the middle for 2/3 of the length of the workpiece from the side of the apex of the triangle, that is, from the thin side of the wedge. The width of the cut should be slightly more than the thickness of the support pin, that is, a kind of bracket should be obtained.

If desired, you can weld a metal rod to the bracket, which will further facilitate the work with the wedge.

Pressing out the pin with a wedge is very simple. It is installed in the gap between the lug and the support body. And then the wedge is simply hammered with a hammer, which leads to the finger jumping out of the socket.

The disadvantage of the wedge is that the boot will be damaged during the pressing process. Therefore, the wedge can only be used when changing supports or tips.

If the suspension and the steering mechanism are being repaired, which does not imply the replacement of ball elements, it is better not to use a wedge.

Screw release mechanism

The second type of removable mechanism that can be made from available tools is a screw expanding mechanism. It is great for replacing ball joints of classic VAZ models.

The peculiarity of the suspension design of these cars is that the upper and lower supports are located symmetrically to each other and the distance between them is not large.

It can be made at home only if drilling machine or you will have to go to a lathe. This puller has only two parts.

To make it, you need a square or hexagonal rod with 17 or 19 turnkey edges, the length of which is 7 cm. In this rod we make a hole with a drilling machine and cut the thread for the bolt by 8. Screw in the bolt and that's it - the puller is ready.

How it works, consider the example of the VAZ-2107. To press out the upper support, it is necessary to unscrew the lock nut, but not completely, you do not need to remove it. Then we install between the pins of the supports a manufactured puller with a bolt tightened all the way.

To squeeze out the finger, we take two keys - with one we hold the manufactured case, and with the second we unscrew the bolt until the finger breaks off the socket. After replacing the upper support, we do the same, but with the lower one.

Screw L-shaped

The third type of detachable mechanism that you can make yourself is also a screw one, but it has shown itself to be excellent and allows you to work on any car.

To make it, you need a round metal rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of 15-17 cm.

It is necessary to make an L-shaped workpiece from it with a shoulder length of 5 cm.That is, we take a rod, measure 5 cm on it, clamp it in a vice and bend it 90 degrees with a hammer.

Cut a thread on the long part of the workpiece and select a nut.

It remains to make a stop bar. You can make it in the likeness of the wedge, painted above. That is, we take a plate, but 0.5 cm thick.On one side, we make a cut for the support finger.

If necessary, you can reduce the thickness of the plate from the side of the cut by grinding off the metal layer. The main thing is that the plate fits into the gap between the support body and the eyelet, while it does not turn out to be too thin, otherwise it will bend during the pressing process.

On the other hand, from the cut we make a hole for the L-shaped workpiece. It remains only to put the plate on the long part of the rod. If the thread is not long enough to squeeze the finger, then you can put several washers under the nut.

This puller works like this: We unscrew the nut almost to the end, set the plate in the gap between the support and the eyelet, and turn the rod so that the short shoulder rests on the finger.

Then we simply tighten the nut, while the plate will act as a stop, and the rod will squeeze out the finger with a short shoulder.

Screw made from angle

Another screw puller can be made from a metal angle and a welding machine.

To do this, take a corner with sides of 7-8 cm and the same length and thickness of 0.3-0.5 cm.

On one side, we make a cut to secure the mechanism to the eyelet. Cut out two triangles from sheet metal 0.3 cm thick, which will act as braces. They need to be welded on the sides to the corner. This will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

We take a nut 17 and a long bolt under it. We weld the nut itself perpendicular to the cut so that the hole faces the cut.

So that in the future the bolt can be easily positioned on the same axis with the finger, before fixing the nut by welding, a spacer must first be welded to the corner.

It only remains to screw in the bolt and the puller can be used.

These are the simplest types of removable mechanisms that you can make yourself.

In general, there are a lot of options, besides, having a little imagination and basic knowledge of plumbing, you can easily come up with and make your own puller.

We offer you some drawings for viewing.

Support unscrewing tool

We will consider another type, which is used not to press out the finger, but to extract the support itself.

The fact is that on a number of cars (Peugeot, Citroen) the ball joint is screwed into the lever. Over time, the threaded connection will sour, and it is quite difficult to unscrew this suspension element without a special tool.

But you can make the necessary puller yourself, and not spend money on a factory one.

It is made from a thick-walled pipe 2 \\ '\\' 8-9 cm long.

From the end of this pipe, it is necessary to make 4 spikes 5 mm wide and 7 mm high, located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other.

That is, there should be 4 protrusions at the end of the pipe, evenly distributed around the circumference. This can be done with a hacksaw for metal and a file, or with a "grinder".